CHAPTER V

ESKIMO LIFE

“Squatted on a polar-bear skin, with a deer-skin for a desk,” was the

way in which Mr. Bompas wrote the following interesting description of

the Eskimo he visited. It was written by the camp-fire, under the open

sky, with the Eskimo all sitting around, working at their canoes, nets,

fishing-lines, bows and arrows. Often they would thrust their inquisitive

faces over his paper, asking over and over again what he was writing

about.

“This race of Eskimo inhabit the coast of the Arctic Sea at the north of

the great River Mackenzie. In spring and fall they ascend the river in

their skin boats for about 200 miles, and trade fox and bear skins for

tobacco and iron kettles, etc., at the nearest post of the Hudson’s Bay

Company on Peel’s River.

“In person and stature the race is a fine one. The men are, many of

them, tall and powerful, some more than six feet, the average stature

exceeding, I should say, that in England. The women are smaller, probably

of about the same average stature as English women. The complexion and

features are not unlike the English. Several of the Eskimo, both men and

women, had I met them at home in European costume, I should hardly have

taken for foreigners. Others, again, have a more distinguishing cast of

countenance. The men’s hair is cut short across the forehead. The face

is square, forehead prominent, eyebrows horizontal, nose straight, mouth

large. Some have a short beard, but most are without it. They have

a circular tonsure on the top of the head, similar to that of Romish

priests, and the men wear bones through their cheeks, intended for

ornament. A hole is bored through each cheek near the lower lip as soon

as a youth approaches manhood, and through this is thrust a large button

of ivory (walrus tusk), and the ambition of an Eskimo is to have fixed to

this white button half a blue bead of the size of a man’s finger-end. To

possess one of these glass beads, which I suppose could be had in England

for a penny, they are willing to give two black fox-skins, each of which

might sell in England for £50. To drive this advantageous bargain,

however, they are obliged to convey their furs many hundred miles along

the coast westward towards Behring’s Straits, where other tribes of

Eskimo are visited by American trading-vessels from the Pacific. This

cheek ornament (called _totuk_) is, of course, a great disfigurement.

It enlarges the mouth, and causes inconvenience to the wearer both in

speaking and eating. Such, however, are the demands of Eskimo fashion.

“The women have also a peculiar custom of wearing large bundles of hair

on the top and sides of their head. It perhaps can hardly be properly

called false hair, as it probably once had connection with the head which

carries it. But the present want of continuity is manifest, as the large

bundles are often laid aside for a time at night. I presume that all the

hair which ever grew on the head is carefully preserved and added to the

stock, as it seems to increase with the age of the wearer. This is also

an inconvenient and disfiguring custom, but probably the Eskimo women

would consider some of our home fashions more absurd.

“The dress of the Eskimo is handsome. It consists of shirt, coat, and

trousers, usually of deer-skin, and fringed with the long hair of

the wolf and wolverine. Their favourite head-dress is the skin of a

wolverine’s head, surrounded with blue beads, over which is worn the hood

of the coat, with a wide fringe of wolf or wolverine hair. Their boots

are of otter and seal skin. The sheep and musk-rat also occasionally

contribute their skins towards the clothing of an Eskimo. The clothes

are, of course, made by the women, and not without considerable taste,

ornamented with blue beads, of which they are very fond, and strips of

the white hair of the deer being sewn into the brown by way of braiding.

The coat is shaped like a shirt. Sometimes the hair is turned inside

towards the skin of the wearer, and this affords greater warmth. The

animal’s skin which is thus turned outside is then dressed so as to be

quite white, and, when well beaded, makes a showy appearance.

“The dress of the women is very similar to that of the men, the coat and

trousers of the same material, the chief difference being in the shape

of the hood, which, in the case of the women, is made larger, to enclose

their extra store of hair, and thus better protect their face. The women

also wear no boots, but the trousers and shoes are all in one.

“The Eskimo is seldom seen without a large butcher’s knife in his hand,

which, in case of a quarrel, he unhappily uses too often to stab his

neighbour. His weapon for hunting on land is the bow, as guns have not

yet come into much use among them. On the water fish-spears of various

construction are his constant companions.

“The Eskimo bow is very strong, and its elasticity is increased by

being backed with lines of twisted sinew. The arrows are well made and

feathered, headed with bone or iron according to the game intended to be

shot. The fish-hooks are generally of bone, and sometimes baited as at

home. But for some fish no bait at all is used. The shank of the hook of

white bone is carved into the shape of a small fish, and is thus mistaken

for a bait. It is armed with a small iron barb which secures the prey.

The fish-spears are pointed with iron, and lie on the outside of their

canoes. One spear with three prongs, like a hay-fork or trident, is used

for hunting musk-rats in the river, and is thrown from the canoe out

of a wooden handle or rest. The fishing-lines, and even nets, are made

often of whalebone, as also are partridge-snares, etc. In fact, whalebone

is used chiefly for tying and fastening the canoe frames, spear-heads,

etc.; the only other kind of line they have, made of twisted sinew,

being not well fitted for use in the water. Whalebone seems a strange

material to form into fishing-nets, but it is split thin and cleverly

netted to the length of several yards, and about one yard in width. The

other lines, made of sinew, are very neatly plaited to the length of 100

yards or more, forming a very strong fine cord, used for fishing-nets,

bow-springs, and various purposes.

“The construction of boats or canoes is part of an Eskimo’s employment in

spring. The boat or canoe frame is first made out of a log of drift-wood,

split up by means of bone wedges into the required lengths. Each is

carefully shaped, smoothed, and finished by what are called in this

country crooked knives—that is, a knife with a blade slightly bent, and

used for shaving wood instead of a smoothing-plane. The canoe is then

covered with otter-skin and the boat with seal-skin. The shape of an

Eskimo canoe is well known. It is about twelve feet long, and is entirely

covered with otter-skin, except the small hole in the centre in which the

Eskimo sits with his double and single paddles, and spears laid carefully

in ivory fittings on the outside of the canoe.

“The boat is from twenty to thirty feet long, and covered with seal-skin,

which is very strong, and forms a most serviceable vessel. The wooden

framework on which the skin is stretched appears slight, but is securely

fastened. This is an open boat propelled by two oars, and, when the wind

is favourable, by a sail. As the men travel generally in their canoes

for the sake of hunting, it is chiefly the women and children who remain

in the boat, which conveys the tents, furniture, utensils, etc. As the

women row but very leisurely, the progress made is rather slow; but the

men are employed in hunting, and time is not often of much importance to

an Eskimo.

“The dwellings of the Eskimo consist in winter of snow-houses built on

the ice, in summer of deer-skin tents, and in the autumn, or fall, of

wooden huts, partly underground, and covered with earth. The chief home

of the Eskimo is on the ice. Here he passes at least half the year,

and it is to this that his habits are chiefly adapted. In building his

snow-house he shows a wonderful readiness, which I can compare to nothing

but the skill of a bee in making its honeycomb. In the Eskimo country

the fallen snow on the wide river-mouths, after being driven by the

wind, becomes caked or frozen so as to have considerable tenacity, and

at the same time to be readily cut with the knife. The Eskimo then, with

his large butcher’s knife, cuts out square blocks of this frozen snow

as it lies on the face of the river, of the size of ordinary blocks of

stone masonry, and with these he builds the house perfectly circular, of

the shape of a beehive. With no tool but the knife, which is used as a

trowel, he works with surprising rapidity, and the whole is arched over

without any support from beneath, except perhaps a single pole during

the construction. Any architect or mason at home would, I suppose, be

astonished to witness the work, and might fail in imitating it, for

without line or plummet and square, or measurement, the circular span and

arch are exactly preserved, and the whole is finished in the space of a

single hour. The work proceeds as if by magic, the snow forming stone and

mortar both in one, for each block, when laid to its neighbour, adheres

and freezes to it so as to form one solid mass, while the least touch

of the knife shapes it and removes any superfluous juttings. The weight

of a single building block is just such as a man can readily lift. In

building the walls of the house the work is simple, but in arching over

the roof it would seem impossible to proceed without support or framework

below. In fact, however, a single staff only is placed under a block

added to the roof just until the next block is placed in juxtaposition.

The adherence of the two blocks is then sufficient to prevent any danger

of falling, the staff is removed, and the same thing repeated with the

ensuing block, until the whole is completed by working the tiers of snow

spirally.

[Illustration: A SNOW-HOUSE MADE ON THE MARCH

These houses have the advantage of costing nothing but time and labour

to make. The “bricks” are large slabs of frozen snow cut in such a shape

that they converge until they form a perfect dome. A hole large enough

for a man to crawl in on his stomach is left as a doorway. The dogs are

the draught animals of the frozen North; they are hard and untiring

workers, but of very irritable temper. Their usual fare is fish.]

“An Eskimo in winter travelling builds a small snow-house every night

for his lodging, but when encamped for any length of time he makes one

of considerable dimensions. One in which I lodged was about twelve or

fourteen feet in diameter, and about nine feet high in the centre from

the level of the ice. Half of the interior is occupied by the bed, which

is raised about three feet from the ice on snow covered with boards, on

which are laid ample deer-skin rugs for bedding; over these are again

deer-skin blankets for covering.

“Opposite the bed is the small, low entrance, shaped like that into a

dog-kennel, through which you have to creep on all-fours. This at night

is covered up with a block of snow. On each side of the entrance (inside)

is a shelf of snow, of the same height as the bed, on which is placed

a large black wooden dish or trough forming the lamp. A little moss

along the side of this dish forms the lamp-wick, fed by grease, which is

constantly replenished from small lumps of fat hung over the flame, and

which drop grease into the dish.

“It seems a strange anomaly, that the coldest inhabited country should

be that in which fires are considered superfluous. The heat given out

by the lamps is certainly considerable, but still, the camps are cold.

The temperature must of course be constantly below freezing-point, or

the snow would melt. The Eskimo, however, do not feel the cold as we do.

Their hands and faces are of a more plump and fleshy form than ours, and

the circulation of their blood is warmer, for their hands felt quite

hot to the touch while sitting without exercise in their freezing camps.

An Eskimo’s chief resource against the cold is the amount of fuel he

consumes internally in the form of whale and seal fat used as food; and

the provision of these large animals in the polar sea for the use of

these few scattered savages is a remarkable proof of God’s providential

care over the meanest of His creatures....

“The Eskimo generally cooks meat or fish twice a day—once about noon, and

again the last thing before sleeping at night. If hungry at other times,

he will eat a fish or piece of meat raw—that is, frozen; and this is not

so disgusting as you might suppose, for the effect of freezing meat or

fish is something the same as cooking it—that is, to harden the fibre and

dry up the superfluous moisture. Even Europeans in this country sometimes

eat a piece of frozen fish uncooked, and find it good and wholesome.

“When an Eskimo visits a neighbour’s house, before he has been sitting

long food is always offered him—generally a frozen fish, which he

evidently eats with much relish. Sometimes it is a small piece of frozen

deer’s meat, or, as a great delicacy, a lump of whale or seal fat. If he

happens to come in at the time of cooking, a portion of what is cooked is

set before him. This seems to be the rule of Eskimo hospitality.

“As soon as the spring thaw sets in, about the middle of May, the Eskimo

exchanges his snow-house for a deer-skin tent or lodge, with which he

soon after removes to the river-bank, where he lives by fishing or

hunting deer before proceeding to the sea for the seal and whale fishery.

In the autumn, or fall of the year, the cold sets in early, and the

deer-skin tent becomes uncomfortable before the ice and snow are thick

and hard enough for building snow-houses. At this time the Eskimo build,

or rather excavate, huts in the river-bank, which they ceil and cover

with logs and earth. They close up at night the small entrance with

skins, and rely for light and warmth chiefly on their lamps. A small

window of thin skin or parchment is made in the roof; but as the short

days of December approach the sun hardly shows itself, and daylight is

but scanty. In the snow-house a block of clear ice inserted in the front

forms a beautiful window, and as spring approaches, and the daylight is

perpetual, a cheerful contrast is presented to the constant gloom and

darkness of an Arctic winter.

“This is a country of contrast. In winter the gloom is such that daylight

seems a passing stranger. In spring the glare is so great that the eye is

sore and inflamed, if not blinded by it. In winter the thermometer will

stand about 100 degrees below freezing-point, and in summer, in the sun,

at least about 100 degrees above it.

“An Eskimo travelling with his family and effects in winter affords

quite an exciting display. About a dozen sledges or trucks are harnessed

together, and on these are laid a very miscellaneous assortment of

property and provision. Boat-frame, canoes, tents, tent-poles, and

boards, deer-skin bedding and blankets, several whole deers’ carcasses,

some hundreds of frozen fish pressed into a solid mass, tent furniture,

utensils, clothes, fishing-nets and implements, with many other seemingly

needless stores, are all laden promiscuously on the train, which is

propelled by men, women, and dogs, all hauling by lines along the sides

of the sledges, and assisted, when the wind is favourable, by a sail.

“The arrival of a large number of such sledge-trains at camp one after

another is like so many railway-trains coming in, for the runnels of the

sledges are covered first with bone, and this is again carefully coated

with ice, so that the sledges run on the frozen snows like trucks on a

railway. The sledge-train which I assisted in drawing myself consisted,

I believe, of fourteen trucks, hauled by four men and boys, three women,

and five dogs. More than a dozen such trains reached the camp at which I

was staying. In spring the sledges are all stowed away on the river-bank,

and the boat forms the means of conveying the Eskimo’s effects during the

summer months....

“Considering the smallness of the number of the Eskimo band we have been

describing, and that no others are to be found within about 100 miles,

a wonderful provision has indeed been made by God’s good providence for

their sustenance. This bounty seems intended on purpose to banish the

thought that these distant wanderers, condemned to such severity of

climate, are outcasts from the Divine care.

“In fact, both the power and goodness of God are in some respect shown in

this country more especially than in others; for while sometimes we are

constrained to say, in seeing the vast expanse of snow and the thickness

of the ice, ‘Who can stand before His cold?’ yet the greater is the

marvel when ‘He sendeth forth His word and melteth them; He causeth His

wind to blow, and the waters flow.’ The Eskimo know not to thank their

Heavenly Father who gives them their daily supply of food, and though

they have heard with gladness and thankfulness the short story of Gospel

truth which alone I have been able as yet to communicate to them, yet it

requires the same mighty Power which melts their Arctic snows and thaws

their frozen ocean to turn them from darkness to light, and from the

power of Satan unto God.

“With respect to the character and habits of the Eskimo, it is best to

speak reservedly. They are certainly kind and hospitable, civil and

obliging, skilful and clever in handicraft. I fear it must be added that

they are liable to fits of passion and sulkiness, that they are lazy and

sleepy, and addicted to lying, stealing, and even stabbing. Over their

other shortcomings it is best to draw a veil.

“They practise heathen dances, songs, and conjuring, and this seems

to be the greater part of their religion. Their dance, however, is a

mere shuffling of the feet, their song is but a monotonous yell, and

their conjuring consists only in yelling and beating the tambourine, and

throwing the body into various distortions and attitudes. They possess

also, most of them, in a bag, a collection of small, miscellaneous

articles, which are intended, I suppose, beneficially to influence their

hunting by way of spells and charms. Beyond this I cannot find that they

have much religion remaining among them. They know of an evil spirit,

named Atti, which seems to symbolize cold and death, and which they seek

to exorcise or appease by their charms and spells.

“Their only idea of a good spirit is connected with the sun, as the

source of warmth and life; and, considering the severity of their

climate, it is not wonderful that their natural religion should symbolize

the powers of good and evil by warmth and cold. If they have any idea of

heaven, it is that of a perpetual spring, and the name they give to the

ministers who bring them tidings of the world above is ‘Children of the

Sun.’ I have not found that they have knowledge of a future life. They

say the old Eskimo used to know these things, but the young ones have

forgotten them. They possess, however, a tradition of the Creation, and

of the descent of mankind from a single pair.”

On trail and rapid by dog-sled & canoe · 第 5 / 20 章