foot _B_ and the stringer _A_ tilts the bottom of the hanger forward.
The size of the wedge regulates the amount of adjustment. Wedge-shaped
space _D_, at foot _C_, should also be packed out so as to avoid
throwing undue strain upon _C_'s extremity _c_. If now, the foot _c_
of the countershaft's other supporting hanger (No. 2) be similarly and
equally packed, as _B_ of No. 1 hanger, the shaft will have been thrown
forward at one end and back at the other, and thus into line. The equal
division of the adjusting wedge packing between the opposite feet of
the two hangers enables a limited packing to do considerable adjusting
without any undue marring effect; and, further, insures the shaft's
remaining level, which evidently would not be the case if only one
hanger were packed down.
After so adjusting, be sure to get your hangers squarely crosswise of
the shaft as readjusted, so that the hanger bearings will lie in a true
line with the shaft and not bind it. At all times be sure to have your
hangers hang or stand plumb up and down; as, if the bearings are not
so pivoted as to be horizontally self-adjusting, excessive friction
will be the lot of one end of the bearing with not even contact for the
rest of it. The bearing being self-adjusting all ways, square crossing
of the shaft line by the hanger line and plumb still remain eminently
desirable for appearance's sake.
Before a countershaft can be put up on a ceiling whose supporting
timbers are boarded over, or in a modern fireproof structure whose
girders and beams are so bricked and plastered in as not to show, it
is necessary to positively locate those of them which are to carry the
stringers.
It is in the earnest endeavor to properly locate these that the
unaccustomed hand turns a wood ceiling into a sieve and a brick one
into a wreck. To avoid kitchen and house razing effects, try the
following recipe:
We will assume that line _A B_, Fig. 38, laid out by one of the methods
previously described, is the center line of the proposed countershaft.
The hanger's base length, lateral adjustment and individual foot length
call for stringers 4-3/4 inches wide, placed 5-1/4 inches apart or
14-3/4 inches outside (as per sketch). The floor position of the machine
to be driven, or the driving point of the main shaft, is so located with
reference to the countershaft that one of the supporting hangers must
go at or very near _C_, and the countershaft's length brings the other
hanger at or very near _D_.
Now between points _C D_ and with due reference to the center line _A
B_, lay out the position which your stringers are to occupy. It is
self-evident that by confining your beam prospecting to the stringer
spaces _E_ and _F_, ultimately, when the countershaft is in place, all
the cut-up portions of the ceiling will be hidden from view.
[Illustration: FIG. 38.]
Generally the necessary supporting beams will not all be found within
the shaft's length distance _C D_; in such cases continue your cutting
in the same parallel line to _A B_, as at _E_ or _F_, going from _C D_
outwardly until you strike the sought-for beams. Having located beams,
say 1 and 2, we find by measurement that they are 5 feet apart, and, as
beams are generally uniformly spaced, we may start 4 feet 6 inches (go
4 feet 6 inches and not 5 feet, to make sure not to skip beam 3 and
thus make a cut that will not be covered by the stringers) from 1 to
cut outwardly for the location of beam 3.
Where the building's beams run parallel to the shaft, Fig. 39, mark the
counter's-center line _A B_, and then mark the spaces--as determined by
the countershaft length, floor position of the driven machine or the
driving point on the main shaft--to be occupied by the stringers _C D_,
and, starting from the center line _A B_, cut outwardly each way to the
desired beams 1 and 2.
[Illustration: FIG. 39.]
Where the center line as laid out (before the position of the ceiling
beams was known) brings it close to or directly under a supporting
beam, it is generally advisable where possible to step the counter back
or forward to a central position between the beams.
Where shafting is already in place in a building, no matter on what
floor, valuable measurements as to beam location can thus be had
from the plainly in sight and the reasonably deducible. Lacking
in-place-shafting to go by, the walls, columns and main girders always
clearly indicate the crosswise or parallel run of the ceiling beams to
the proposed shafting line.
In the usual method of locating the timbers of a boarded-over ceiling,
a brace and bit, or a nail, can be used for the purpose. If shy of an
awl, and in preference the other two ways, force or drive a chisel
(cold chisel or wood) in between a tongue and groove of the ceiling
boards in stringer space (Fig. 38) _E_ or _F_, and thus spring the
boards sufficiently apart to insert a compass saw. With the extremity
of a 12-inch saw a very little cutting (along the tongue and groove,
as this shows least) will enable you to locate a beam, since they
generally run 8, 12, 16, 20, 24 and 30 inches apart.
Always, on locating your beam, run the point of your compass saw down
the whole of the timber's width, so that any nailed-on pieces will not
lead you into a false estimate of the beam's thickness.
[Illustration: FIG. 40.]
[Illustration: FIG. 41.]
Figs. 40 and 41 make this point and its object clear. The saw, in Fig.
40, being stopped by _A_, naturally leads to the inference that _A
B_ is the timber's thickness. By running down the timber, as in Fig.
41, the saw's point sticking at _a_ acts as a sure detector. This
precaution should be taken on both sides (_B_ and _A_) of the timber,
and then, when the lags are screwed in, they can be sent home safe and
true in the center of the timber.
It often happens that in boring for the lag screws the bit strikes a
nail and further progress at that point seems out of the question. When
so situated, take your bit out, and running the lag screw up as far as
it will go, by sheer force swing it three or four turns up further than
the point where your bit struck. Removing the lag and replacing the
bit, it will be found that the nail has been forced aside and the way
is now clear.
[Illustration: FIG. 42.]
Hook bolts (Fig. 42) or--as our across-the-sea cousins call
them--"elbow bolts," despite all assertions to the contrary, are an
easy, safe and economical stringer fastener or suspending device.
Figs. 43 and 44 illustrate two very common abuses of the hook bolt. In
the one (Fig. 43), instead of the bolt proper lying snug up against the
beam flange with the whole of its hook resting squarely upon the beam's
flange, its supporting countershaft is turned into a menace to limb and
life by this "chance it" kind of erection. In the other (Fig. 44),
though the bolts do lie snug against the flange, the hook being out of
sight and no means being provided for telling whether the hook lies,
as it should, at right angles to the web of the beam, even if properly
placed at installation, timber shrinkage, vibration or a slight turn
of the bolt when tightening the nut, all constitute dangerous factors
tending to loosen or entirely loosen the hook's grip upon the beam
flange.
[Illustration: FIG. 43.]
[Illustration: FIG. 44.]
Fig. 43 suggests its own remedy. As to Fig. 44, a screwdriver slot
(made by a hacksaw) at the nut end of the hook bolt and running in
the same direction as the hook, Fig. 45, will at all times serve to
indicate the hook's position and, allowing as it does of a combined use
of screwdriver and wrench, it can be used to prevent the bolt's turning
when being tightened.
[Illustration: FIG. 45.]
[Illustration: FIG. 46.]
Where two or more hook bolts are placed close together on the same beam
flange, a plate, preferably wrought iron with properly spaced confining
pins for the hooks, may be placed between the beam flange and the hooks
as in Fig. 46. Its benefits are obvious and so likewise is the use of a
small, square, wrought-iron plate with a bolt hole through its center
instead of hook bolts.
The various styles of beam clamps carried by the hardware and supply
trade all have their good points, and though the _C_ of their cost may
seem to loom large, it is not a whit more emphatic, taken all in all,
than the _W_ of their worth.
IV
TRUING UP LINE SHAFTING
IT is assumed, for the purposes of this description, that the modern
style of shafting, increasing in diameter by the 1/2 inch, is used, and
that all pulleys and belts are in place. We will take a line composed
of sizes ranging between 3-15/16 and 2-7/16 inches. This gives us four
sizes, 3-15/16, 3-7/16, 2-15/16 and 2-7/16 inches in the line.
We will first consider the plumb-bob. The accompanying sketch, Fig. 47,
illustrates a good one.
The ball is 1-1/2 inches diameter, and the large end of the tapered stem
1/2 inch in diameter, turned parallel for a short distance at the lower
end. The two thin sheet-steel disks, 1 and 2 inches in diameter, are
drilled to fit snugly when pushed on to the 1/2-inch part of the stem,
and stay there until pulled off. These disks are turned true. This
arrangement of plumb-bob and disks enables us to deal with five sizes
on one line, and there are not many lines that contain more.
Now having our plumb-bob ready, we will stretch the line. The
stretchers should be set horizontally by nailing a strip of wood, say 1
× 1-1/2 × 12 inches, with a piece at each end to form a space between it
and the wall, or place of location in line with the edge of the shaft,
as in Fig. 48. The top of this stretcher should be low enough to clear
the largest pulley, and high enough to clear the hat of your tallest
man. You would perhaps find it convenient to go between the spokes of a
large pulley.
[Illustration: FIG. 47.]
Now having located your stretcher, find approximately the position of
your line, and drive a nail a foot or more below it in a vertical line,
and another nail anywhere for convenient winding. The advantage of this
plan is that the line can be easily adjusted as it merely passes over
the stretcher, and is free to respond to movement either way; then when
the final adjustment is made, and is ready for its final stretch, it is
only necessary to pinch the line to the nail with one hand, while the
other is at liberty to unwind, stretch and rewind the line without fear
of its shifting.
[Illustration: FIG. 48.]
The line being adjusted over the stretchers, we will now proceed to
set it. Begin at the 2-7/16-inch end, by throwing your plumb line over
the shaft and setting your line at that end, right with the _center
point_ of your bob. Having done so, go to the other or 3-15/16 end of
your line, and set the line so that the edge of the _ball_ of your
bob just touches it. Now go back to the 2-7/16 end and see that the
necessary adjustment did not alter it. Having proved this, give your
line the final stretch and try if it is right at both ends. You now
have a center line (though the edge instead of the center of the shaft
is used) that may remain up for days if necessary without fear of
disturbance.
It is best to go over the whole line first, before disturbing anything;
so starting at the first hanger at the 2-7/16-inch end, throw your
plumb line over the shaft, and record on the floor in chalk beneath
it whether it is O. K. or wants to go either way, and how much; then
go to the next hanger, and so on to the end. A short study of the
conditions enables one to correct the faults, with a knowledge of the
requirements, and consequently in the least time and with the least
trouble.
Now suppose we start at the 2-7/16-inch end to inspect the line, we
use the center point of the bob on the line so long as we are testing
2-7/16 inches.
When we get to the 2-15/16-inch part, which is 1/2 inch larger, we use
the half diameter of the stem, the edge of which should just touch the
line.
When we come to the 3-7/16-inch part, 1 inch larger than 2-7/16, we use
the 1-inch disk, slip it on to the stem, and when it just touches the
line with its edge it is O. K.
The 3-15/16-inch, being 1-1/2 inches larger than the 2-7/16-inch, will
be right when the ball of the bob is in light contact with the line.
The 2-inch disk would be suitable for the next size, and other disks or
modifications of the bob proper might be made to suit circumstances.
Now having straightened the line, the next process is to level it.
As in some cases your pulleys will be too close to place your level
where you want, make a light iron frame as per Fig. 49, making the
suspending members of sufficient length to admit of your reading the
level conveniently when standing on the floor. Hang your frame on
the shaft, and put your level on the straight-edge below; in this
way travel along the shaft, placing your frame where convenient. Be
sure that one end of your frame does not rest on a shaft of different
diameter, a key, keyseat, or anything to distort the reading.
[Illustration: FIG. 49.]
Never be content with trying your level, especially an adjusting level,
one way; always reverse it and try again; for if it is out of truth at
the start, you might want to go through the roof or down cellar at the
finish. Get into a habit of reversing your level, and so prove your
work as you proceed.
V
APPARATUS FOR LEVELING AND LINING SHAFTING
THE first apparatus explained in this chapter was designed by the late
Chas. A. Bauer, and is a highly perfected instrument.
For those who have lined and leveled shafting with an engineer's
transit and level it is unnecessary to say anything of the advantages
of that method over the cruder methods usually employed. It is not only
done much more rapidly and economically, but the greater accuracy with
which the work is done goes on paying dividends in decreased friction
and loss of power and in lessening of wear.
[Illustration: FIG. 50.]
The apparatus we now illustrate (Fig. 50) has at the top a hook, which
is passed over the shaft, as indicated; on the straight portion of
this hook are two sliding jaws which are so set that the shaft will
just pass between them. Set into the face of this hook is a commercial
6-inch steel rule which facilitates the setting of the jaws, and
they are of course so set that the tubular portion of the hook or
leveling rod is centered vertically under the shaft. Within the outer
tube, which is about 1 inch outside diameter and nicely japanned, is
another tube, and inside this a third tube, these being arranged _à
la_ telescope slide, and clamps being provided so that the length or
distance from the shafting to the target may be anything desired from
4 to about 10 feet. At the lower end of the third or inner tube is a
swiveling head to which the target is attached, and nurled nuts at this
point give means of adjusting the sighting point of the target to the
exact hight of the transit or level sighting line.
The target is a brass plate 5-1/2 inches diameter, on the face of which
is a recess milled for the reception of a second commercial steel rule,
which in this case is vertical and can be moved vertically and clamped
in any desired position with reference to a line drawn upon the target.
At the center of this scale is a very small hole through which the
light of a hand flash lamp may shine to form the sighting point. The
slot through the target at the right of the scale is provided with a
single thickness of white cloth, which permits enough light to pass
through it to help in finding the target in the field of the telescope.
The object of providing a vertical adjustment for the rule on the
target is so that when passing from one diameter of shafting to another
in the same line, as sometimes happens, the scale can be moved up or
down just half the difference of diameter and the sighting point thus
be kept at a constant hight.
[Illustration: FIG. 51.]
The target is readily detached from the rod, and may then be placed
upon the small standard (Fig. 51) which has at its base a V adapted
to go over the shaft. The standard is tubular and the wire (about 1/8
inch diameter) may be adjusted and clamped at the desired hight. The
target fits over the wire as shown (rear view of target) for leveling
lines of shafting that may be near the floor, or, with the target
removed, the V and wire form a sort of length gage or caliper with
which the shaft may be made parallel to a line or wire stretched at the
side of it. Two different lengths of wire are provided for this purpose.
The plumb-bob shown is part of the equipment and is a very superior
article. A new feature it possesses is in having its larger portion
hexagonal instead of round, so when laid down upon a plank or
scaffolding it will lie there instead of promptly rolling off and
falling to the floor. The entire apparatus is, we think, very well
designed for its purpose.
TOOL FOR LEVELING SHAFTING
The instrument shown in Fig. 52 is a good one for use in leveling up
shafting. It can be made to fit several sizes of shaft, or all the
sizes ordinarily found in a factory.
When the instrument is placed on any piece of shaft and leveled up with
the attached level, the plumb line will hang exactly the same distance
from the shaft center every time. In this case the distance of line
from center is 6 inches.
A handy apparatus for use in leveling up long lines of shaft can be
made as follows.
[Illustration: FIG. 52.]
[Illustration: FIG. 53.]
[Illustration: FIG. 54.]
Take two pieces of finished material, fasten together as in Fig. 53 and
cut out as shown at _A_ and _B_ in Fig. 54. The opening _A_ is made so
that the piece can be hung over the shaft, and the opening _B_ is made
for the reception of a wooden straight-edge.
Make the straight-edge out of 1-1/4-inch stuff. Be sure that the edges
are parallel, the width just enough less than the width of opening _B_,
Fig. 55, to enter it, and the length 6 or 8 feet, to suit convenience.
Use the apparatus with a level, as in Fig. 55, taking care that the
suspension pieces are always on the same size shaft.
[Illustration: FIG. 55.]
VI
SOME PRACTICAL KINKS[4]
[Illustration: FIG. 56.]
A PULLEY on one of the motors at a certain plant had been giving some
trouble by becoming loose and working its way along the shaft toward
the motor bearing. Each time the pulley became loose, the set-screw
was loosened, the pulley put back in position, the set-screw made
tight and the motor started. After a few trials it was found that this
would not prevent the pulley from working its way along the shaft. In
order to overcome this difficulty the pulley was placed in its proper
position, a line was drawn around the shaft close to the hub and, after
the line was scribed, the pulley was removed and the shaft was burred
upon the line as shown at _B_, Fig. 56. The pulley was then put back
and driven close up to the burred line, the set-screw made tight and
the pulley is now running without any apparent tendency to travel from
its proper position. It will be seen that the position of the set-screw
as indicated by the line at _A_ is a poor one and calculated to give
plenty of trouble at the most inopportune time.
[4] Contributed to Power by Wm. Kavanagh.
Not long ago a cast-iron pulley had to move along a countershaft in
order to make room for a pulley of another diameter. The pulley had
not been on the shaft long, so it was thought that little work would
be required to move it. A heavy bar was placed against the hub and a
sledge hammer was used to strike the bar. After an hour and a half of
heavy work the pulley was not moved over 1 inch (it had to be moved
16 inches), so it was suggested that a Bunsen burner be attached to a
gas pipe by means of a hose and placed beneath the hub. The plan was
immediately adopted. The burner was placed beneath the hub, the gas lit
and allowed to heat the hub. After about twenty-five minutes it was
found that a blow from the bar was sufficient to move the pulley. The
pulley was moved the 16 inches inside of twenty minutes.
[Illustration: FIG. 57.]
A very handy arrangement for moving pulleys is a bolt and nut. Fig. 57
shows the bolt and nut with a piece of pipe attached. A piece of pipe
can be cut to suit the distance between the nut and hub of one pulley
while the bolt head is against the other hub. The nut is screwed back
upon the bolt as far as possible. A washer is then placed against the
nut, and a piece of pipe cut to suit. Of course, the pipe must be large
enough in diameter to fit over the bolt. If we screw back upon the nut,
a powerful strain can be brought to bear between the hubs and in all
probability the pulley will move.
[Illustration: FIG. 58.]
In taking down solid pulleys from main or counter shafting it sometimes
happens that a hanger must be removed to permit the pulley to be taken
off. A first-rate plan is to make a couple of long bolts hooked at
the end as shown in Fig 58; pass the hook around the shaft and the
threaded end through a hole in the stringer. By screwing up the nut
as shown, the shaft and remaining pulleys can be kept in position,
obviating the use of tackle, not to mention the labor required to hoist
back the shaft into position. The application of this contrivance is
especially valuable where heavy cone pulleys are required to be lowered
or changed. It will be seen that if we employ a pipe thread we will be
enabled to suit almost any condition of length that may arise between
the shaft and stringer.
VII
PRACTICAL METHODS OF LOOSENING PULLEYS
WHEN a solid pulley is to be removed from a piece of shaft for any
reason, it is not good policy to use sledge hammers on the spokes or
hub to do it. Cast iron in pulleys is too liable to break or crack
under repeated blows.
[Illustration: FIG. 59.]
In Fig. 59 one ready method is illustrated by which the pulley may be
removed. When a place between two walls can be found that will admit
of this arrangement, proceed as shown to force the shaft through the
pulley, substituting longer pieces of pipe as the shaft is forced
through farther.
In one case where a large pulley was stuck on a 7-inch shaft and its
removal was imperative, the shaft was sawed off (with large hack-saws)
close up to the pulley hub and two 5/8-inch holes were drilled into
the shaft parallel to its axis, as shown in Fig. 60. These holes were
drilled so that they were 90 degrees apart and came within 1/16-inch of
the hub of the pulley. The hub was 14 inches through and these holes
were 8 inches deep; but that was enough to loosen up the shaft so
that when the pulley was laid over on beams with the shaft hanging
through, a sledge hammer applied on the shaft end soon drove it out.
Another way to remove a pulley is shown in Fig. 61, where a ram is
used. The ram is another piece of old shaft. To prevent its damaging
the pulley hub and also to have its force applied most advantageously,
it should be used in a direct line with the direction of removal. To do
this, the method shown in Fig. 61 is self-explanatory.
[Illustration: FIG. 60.]
Another good method of removing an obdurate pulley is illustrated in
Fig. 62, where the bolts _W_, _W_ must have long threads and the work
is done by pulling up on the nuts _A_, _A_. This method can be used
only when the end of the shaft can be reached and used as shown. In
using this method, care must be exercised in the pulling up on the
bolts _W_, _W_, keeping the strain equally divided between the two by
pulling a little at a time on each.
[Illustration: FIG. 61.]
[Illustration: FIG. 62.]
If the pulley comes extra hard, it can be assisted when the strain is
on the bolts by striking at _X_ with a sledge.
A good device for removing motor and generator pulleys that are near
the shaft end is shown in Fig. 63. The arms _Z_, _Z_ are adjustable to
take hold of hub or arms, and the screw applied to the shaft center
will do the rest.
To run a pulley off a shaft without injury to the hands, use a monkey
wrench on the rim of each pulley, as shown in Fig. 64. One pulley on
the shaft can be selected for a hold-back; one monkey wrench there will
hold the shaft from turning, while the other will turn around the shaft
the pulley which it is intended to remove.
[Illustration: FIG. 63.]
[Illustration: FIG. 64.]
VIII
SPLICING LEATHER BELTS[5]
THE first thing is the tools for the different kinds of work. These may
be usually changed somewhat to suit the taste of the user, but in the
main the style and kind herein shown in attached drawings cannot be
very much improved upon.
[5] Contributed to Power by Walter E. Dixon, M. E.
[Illustration: FIG. 65.]
[Illustration: FIG. 66.]