[Footnote Z: Now, my friend, do but observe what a thing is a woman! she
is not afraid even of the roaring ocean, and yet goes into fits almost
at the sight of a fly.]
In a very clear day, it is said, one may see Corsica from hence, though
not less than forty or fifty miles off: the pretty island Gorgona
however, whence our best anchovies are brought to England, lies
constantly in view,
Assurgit ponti medio circumflua Gorgon.
RUTELIUS's Itinerary.
How she came by that extraordinary name though, is not I believe well
known; perhaps her likeness to one of the Cape Verd islands, the
original Hesperides, might be the cause; for it was _there_ the
daughters of Phorcus fixed their habitation: or may be, as Medusa was
called _Gorgon par eminence_, because she applied herself to the
enriching of ground, this fertile islet owes its appellation from being
particularly manured and fructified.
Here is an extraordinary good opera-house; admirable dancers, who
performed a mighty pretty pantomime Comedie _larmoyante_ without words;
I liked it vastly. The famous Soprano singer Bedini was at Lucca; but
here is our old London favourite Signora Giorgi, improved into a degree
of perfection seldom found, and from her little expected.
Mr. Udney the British Consul is alone now; his lady has been obliged to
leave him, and take her children home for health's sake; but we saw his
fine collection of pictures, among which is a Danae that once belonged
to Queen Christina of Sweden, and fell from her possession into that of
some nobleman, who being tormented by scruples of morality upon his
death-bed, resolved to part with all his undraped figures, but not
liking to lose the face of this Danae, put the picture into a painter's
hands to cut and clothe her: the man, instead of obeying orders he
considered as barbarous, copied the whole, and dressed the copy
decently, sending it to his sick friend, who never discerned the trick;
and kept the original to dispose of, where fewer scruples impeded an
advantageous sale. The gentleman who bought it then, died; when Mr.
Udney purchased Danae, and highly values her; though some connoisseurs
say she is too young and ungrown a female for the character. There is a
Titian too in the same collection, of Cupid riding on a lion's back, to
which some very remarkable story is annexed; but one's belief is so
assailed by such various tales, told of all the striking pictures in
Italy, that one grows more tenacious of it every day I think; so that at
last the danger will be of believing too little, instead of too much
perhaps. Happy for travellers would it be, were that disposition of mind
confined to _painting_ only: but if it should prove extended to more
serious subjects, we can only hope that the violent excess of the
temptation may prove some excuse, or at least in a slight degree
extenuate the offence: A wise man cannot believe half he hears in Italy
to be sure, but a pious man will be cautious not to discredit it all.
Our evening's walk was directed towards the burying-ground appointed
here to receive the bodies of our countrymen, and consecrated according
to the rites of the Anglican church: for _here_, under protection of a
factory, we enjoy that which is vainly sought for under the auspices of
a king's ambassador.--_Here_ we have a churchyard of our own, and are
not condemned as at other towns in Italy, to be stuffed into a hole like
dogs, after having spent our money among them like princes. Prejudice
however is not banished from Leghorn, though convenience keeps all in
good-humour with each other. The Italians fail not to class the subjects
of Great Britain among the Pagan inhabitants of the town, and to
distinguish themselves, say, "_Noi altri Christiani_[Footnote: We that
are Christians.]:" their aversion to a Protestant, conceal it as they
may, is ever implacable; and the last day only will convince them that
it is criminal.
_Coelum non animum mutant_[Footnote: One changes one's sky but not
one's soul.], is an old observation; I passed this afternoon in
confirming the truth of it among the English traders settled here: whose
conversation, manners, ideas, and language, were so truly _Londonish_,
so little changed by transmigration, that I thought some enchantment had
suddenly operated, and carried me to drink tea in the regions of
_Bucklersbury_.
Well! it is a great delight to see such a society subsisting in Italy
after all; established where distress may run for refuge, and sickness
retire to prepare for lasting repose; whence narrowness of mind is
banished by principles of universal benevolence, and prejudice precluded
by Christian charity: where the purse of the British merchant, ever open
to the poor, is certain to succour and to soothe affliction; and where
it is agreed that more alms are given by the natives of our island
alone, than by all the rest of Leghorn, and the palaces of Pisa put
together.
I have here finished that work which chiefly brought me hither; the
Anecdotes of Dr. Johnson's Life. It is from this port they take their
flight for England, while we retire for refreshment to the