CHAPTER V.

Let us follow, for a little, the poor Highlanders of Sutherland to the

sea-coast. It would be easy dwelling on the terrors of their

expulsion, and multiplying facts of horror; but had there been no

permanent deterioration effected in their condition, these, all

harrowing and repulsive as they were, would have mattered less.

Sutherland would have soon recovered the burning up of a few hundred

hamlets, or the loss of a few bedridden old people, who would have

died as certainly under cover, though perhaps a few months later, as

when exposed to the elements in the open air. Nay, had it lost a

thousand of its best men in the way in which it lost so many at the

storming of New Orleans, the blank ere now would have been completely

filled up. The calamities of fire or of decimation even, however

distressing in themselves, never yet ruined a country: no calamity

ruins a country that leaves the surviving inhabitants to develope, in

their old circumstances, their old character and resources.

In one of the eastern eclogues of Collins, where two shepherds are

described as flying for their lives before the troops of a ruthless

invader, we see with how much of the terrible the imagination of a poet

could invest the evils of war, when aggravated by pitiless barbarity.

Fertile as that imagination was, however, there might be found new

circumstances to heighten the horrors of the scene--circumstances

beyond the reach of invention--in the retreat of the Sutherland

Highlanders from the smoking ruins of their cottages to their

allotments on the coast. We have heard of one man, named M'Kay, whose

family, at the time of the greater conflagration referred to by

M'Leod, were all lying ill of fever, who had to carry two of his sick

children on his back a distance of twenty-five miles. We have heard of

the famished people blackening the shores, like the crew of some vessel

wrecked on an inhospitable coast, that they might sustain life by

the shell-fish and sea-weed laid bare by the ebb. Many of their

allotments, especially on the western coast, were barren in the

extreme--unsheltered by bush or tree, and exposed to the sweeping

sea-winds, and, in time of tempest, to the blighting spray; and it was

found a matter of the extremest difficulty to keep the few cattle

which they had retained, from wandering, especially in the night-time,

into the better sheltered and more fertile interior. The poor

animals were intelligent enough to read a practical comment on the

nature of the change effected; and, from the harshness of the

shepherds to whom the care of the interior had been entrusted, they

served materially to add to the distress of their unhappy masters.

They were getting continually impounded; and vexatious fines, in the

form of trespass-money, came thus to be wrung from the already

impoverished Highlanders. Many who had no money to give were obliged

to relieve them by depositing some of their few portable articles of

value, such as bed or body clothes, or, more distressing still,

watches and rings and pins--the only relics, in not a few instances, of

brave men whose bones were mouldering under the fatal rampart at New

Orleans, or in the arid sands of Egypt--on that spot of proud

recollection, where the invincibles of Napoleon went down before the

Highland bayonet. Their first efforts as fishermen were what might

be expected from a rural people unaccustomed to the sea. The shores of

Sutherland, for immense tracts together, are iron-bound, and much

exposed--open on the eastern coast to the waves of the German Ocean,

and on the north and west to the long roll of the Atlantic. There could

not be more perilous seas for the unpractised boatman to take his first

lessons on; but though the casualties were numerous, and the loss of

life great, many of the younger Highlanders became expert fishermen.

The experiment was harsh in the extreme, but so far, at least, it

succeeded. It lies open, however, to other objections than those which

have been urged against it on the score of its inhumanity.

The reader must be acquainted with Goldsmith's remarks on the herring

fishery of his days. 'A few years ago,' he says, 'the herring fishing

employed all Grub Street; it was the topic in every coffee-house, and

the burden of every ballad. We were to drag up oceans of gold from the

bottom of the sea; we were to supply all Europe with herrings upon our

own terms. At present, however, we hear no more of all this; we have

fished up very little gold that I can learn; nor do we furnish the

world with herrings, as was expected.' We have, in this brief passage,

a history of all the more sanguine expectations which have been

founded on herring fisheries. There is no branch of industry so

calculated to awaken the hopes of the speculator, or so suited to

disappoint them. So entirely is this the case, that were we desirous

to reduce an industrious people to the lowest stage of wretchedness

compatible with industry, we would remove them to some barren

district, and there throw them on the resources of this fishery

exclusively. The employments of the herring fisher have all the

uncertainty of the ventures of the gambler. He has first to lay down,

if we may so speak, a considerable stake, for his drift of nets and

his boat involve a very considerable outlay of capital; and if

successful, and if in general the fishery be _not_ successful, the

_take_ of a single week may more than remunerate him. A single cast of

his nets may bring him in thirty guineas and more. The die turns up in

his favour, and he sweeps the board. And hence those golden dreams of

the speculator so happily described by Goldsmith. But year after year

may pass, and the run of luck be against the fisherman. A fishing

generally good at all the stations gluts the market, necessarily

limited in its demands to an average supply, and, from the bulk and

weight of the commodity, not easily extended to distant parts: and the

herring merchant first, and the fisherman next, find that they have

been labouring hard to little purpose. Again, a fishing under average,

from the eccentric character of the fish, is found almost always to

benefit a few, and to ruin a great many. The average deficiency is

never equally spread over the fishermen; one sweeps the board--another

loses all. Nor are the cases few in which the accustomed shoal wholly

deserts a tract of coast for years together; and thus the lottery,

precarious at all times, becomes a lottery in which there are only

blanks to be drawn. The wealthy speculator might perhaps watch such

changes, and by supplementing the deficiency of one year by the

abundance of another, give to the whole a character of average; but

alas for the poor labouring man placed in such circumstances! The

yearly disbursements of our Scottish Fishery Board, in the way of

assistance to poverty-struck fishermen, unable even to repair their

boats, testify all too tangibly that they cannot regulate their long

runs of ill luck by their temporary successes! And if such be the case

among our hereditary fishermen of the north, who derive more than half

their sustenance from the white fishery, how much more must it affect

those fishermen of Sutherland, who, having no market for their white

fish in the depopulated interior, and no merchants settled among them

to find markets farther away, have to depend exclusively on their

herring fishing! The experiment which precipitated the population of

the country on its barer skirts, as some diseases precipitate the

humours on the extremities, would have been emphatically a disastrous

one, so far at least as the people were concerned, even did it involve

no large amount of human suffering, and no deterioration of

character.

One of the first writers, of unquestioned respectability, who acquainted

the public with the true character of the revolution which had been

effected in Sutherland, was the late General Stewart of Garth. He

was, we believe, the first man--and the fact says something for his

shrewdness--who saw a coming poor-law looming through the _clearing_ of

Sutherland. His statements are exceedingly valuable; his inferences

almost always just. The General--a man of probity and nice honour--had

such an ability of estimating the value of moral excellence in a

people, as the originators of the revolution had of estimating the

antagonist merits of double pounds of mutton and single pounds of

beef. He had seen printed representations on the subject--tissues of

hollow falsehood, that have since been repeated in newspapers and

reviews; and though unacquainted with the facts at the time, he saw

sufficient reason to question their general correctness, from the

circumstance that he found in them the character of the people, with

which no man could be better acquainted, vilified and traduced. The

General saw one leviathan falsehood running through the whole, and,

on the strength of the old adage, naturally suspected the company in

which he found it. And so, making minute and faithful inquiry, he

published the results at which he arrived. He refers to the mode of

ejectment by the torch. He next goes on to show how some of the ejected

tenants were allowed small allotments of moor on the coast side, of from

half an acre to two acres in extent, which it was their task to break

into corn land; and how that, because many patches of green appear

in this way, where all was russet before, the change has been much

eulogized as improvement. We find him remarking further, with

considerable point and shrewdness, that 'many persons are, however,

inclined to doubt the advantages of improvements which call for such

frequent apologies,' and that, 'if the advantage to the people were so

evident, or if more lenient measures had been pursued, vindication

could not have been necessary.' The General knew how to pass from

the green spots themselves to the condition of those who tilled them.

The following passage must strike all acquainted with the Highlanders

of Sutherland as a true representation of the circumstances to which

they have been reduced:

'Ancient respectable tenants who have passed the greater part of life

in the enjoyment of abundance, and in the exercise of hospitality and

charity, possessing stock of ten, twenty, and thirty breeding cows,

with the usual proportion of other stock, are now pining on one or two

acres of bad land, with one or two starved cows; and for this

accommodation a calculation is made, that they must support their

families, and pay the rent of their lots, not from the produce, but

from the sea, thus drawing a rent which the land cannot afford. When

the herring fishing succeeds, they generally satisfy the landlord,

whatever privations they may suffer; but when the fishing fails, they

fall into arrears. The herring fishing, always precarious, has for a

succession of years been very defective, and this class of people are

reduced to extreme misery. At first, some of them possessed capital,

from converting their farm-stock into cash, but this has been long

exhausted; and it is truly distressing to view their general poverty,

aggravated by their having once enjoyed abundance and independence.'

Some of the removals to which we have referred took place during that

group of scarce seasons in which the year 1816 was so prominent; but

the scarcity which these induced served merely to render the other

sufferings of the people more intense, and was lost sight of in the

general extent of the calamity. Another group of hard seasons came

on,--one of those groups which seem of such certain and yet of such

irregular occurrence in our climate, that though they have attracted

notice from the days of Bacon downwards, they have hitherto resisted

all attempts to include them in some definite cycle. The summer and

harvest of 1835 were the last of a series of fine summers and abundant

harvests; and for six years after there was less than the usual heat,

and more than the usual rain. Science, in connection with agriculture,

has done much for us in the low country, and so our humbler population

were saved from the horrors of a dearth of food; but on the green

patches which girdle the shores of Sutherland, and which have been

esteemed such wonderful improvements, science had done and could do

nothing. The people had been sinking lower and lower during the

previous twenty years, and what would have been great hardship before

had become famine now. One feels at times that it may be an advantage

to have lived among the humbler people. We have been enabled, in

consequence, to detect many such gross misstatements as those with

which the apologists of the disastrous revolution effected in

Sutherland have attempted to gloss over the ruin of that country. In

other parts of the Highlands, especially in the Hebrides, the failure

of the kelp trade did much to impoverish the inhabitants; but in the

Highlands of Sutherland the famine was the effect of _improvement_

alone.

The writer of these chapters saw how a late, untoward year operates on

the bleak shores of the north-western Highlands, when spending a

season there a good many years ago. He found what only a few

twelvemonths previous had been a piece of dark moor, laid out into

minute patches of corn, and bearing a dense population. The herring

fishing had failed for the two seasons before, and the poor cottars

were, in consequence, in arrears with their rent; but the crops had

been tolerable; and though their stores of meal and potatoes were all

exhausted at the time of our coming among them (the month of June),

and though no part of the growing crop was yet fit for use, the white

fishing was abundant, and a training of hardship had enabled them to

subsist on fish exclusively. Their corn shot in the genial sunshine,

and gave fair promise, and their potatoes had become far enough

advanced to supplement their all too meagre meals, when, after a

terrible thunder-storm, the fine weather broke up, and for thirteen

weeks together there scarce passed a day without its baffling winds

and its heavy chilling showers. The oats withered without ripening;

the hardy bear might be seen rustling on all the more exposed slopes,

light as the common rye-grass of our hay-fields, the stalks, in vast

proportion, shorn of the ears. It was only in a very few of the more

sheltered places that it yielded a scanty return of a dark-coloured

and shrivelled grain. And to impart a still deeper shade to the

prospects of the poor Highlanders, the herring fishery failed as

signally as in the previous years. There awaited them all too

obviously a whole half year of inevitable famine, unless Lowland

charity interfered in their behalf. And the recurrence of this state

of things no amount of providence or exertion on their own part, when

placed in such circumstances, can obviate or prevent. It was a

conviction of this character, based on experience, which led the

writer of these remarks to state, when giving evidence before the

present Poor-Law Commissioners for Scotland, that though opposed to

the principle of legal assessment generally, he could yet see no other

mode of reaching the destitution of the Highlands. Our humane Scottish

law compels the man who sends another man to prison to support him

there, just because it is held impossible that within the walls of a

prison a man can support himself. Should the principle alter, if,

instead of sending him to a prison, he banishes him to a bleak,

inhospitable coast, where, unless he receives occasional support from

others, he must inevitably perish?

The sufferings of the people of Sutherland during the first of these

years of destitution (1836), we find strikingly described by M'Leod:

'In this year,' says the author, 'the crops all over Britain were

deficient, having bad weather for growing and ripening, and still

worse for gathering in. But in the Highlands they were an entire

failure; and on the untoward spots, occupied by the Sutherland small

tenants, there was literally nothing fit for human subsistence. And to

add to the calamity, the weather had prevented them from securing the

peats, their only fuel; so that, to their previous state of

exhaustion, cold and hunger were to be superadded. The sufferings

endured by the poor Highlanders in the succeeding winter truly beggar

description. Even the herring fishing had failed, and consequently

their credit in Caithness, which depended on its success, was at an

end. Any little provision they might be able to procure was of the

most inferior and unwholesome description. It was no uncommon thing to

see people searching among the snow for the frosted potatoes to eat in

order to preserve life. As the harvest had been disastrous, so the

winter was uncommonly boisterous and severe, and consequently little

could be obtained from the sea to mitigate the calamity. The distress

rose to such a height as to cause a sensation all over the island; and

there arose a general cry for Government interference, to save the

people from death by famine.'

Public meetings were held, private subscriptions entered into, large

funds collected, the British people responded to the cry of their

suffering fellow-subjects, and relief was extended to every portion of

the Highlands except one. Alas for poor Sutherland! There, it was

said, the charity of the country was not required, as the noble and

wealthy proprietors had themselves resolved to interfere; and as this

statement was circulated extensively through the public prints, and

sedulously repeated at all public meetings, the mind of the community

was set quite at rest on the matter. And interfere the proprietors at

length did. Late in the spring of 1837, after sufferings the most

incredible had been endured, and disease and death had been among the

wretched people, they received a scanty supply of meal and seed-corn,

for which, though vaunted at the time as a piece of munificent

charity, the greater part of them had afterwards to pay.

In the next chapter we shall endeavour bringing these facts to bear on

the cause of the Free Church in Sutherland. We close for the present

by adding just one curious fact more. We have already shown how the

bleak moors of Sutherland have been mightily improved by the

revolution which ruined its people. They bear many green patches which

were brown before. Now it so happened that rather more than ten years

ago, the idea struck the original improvers, that as green was an

improvement on brown, so far as the moors were concerned, white would

be an equally decided improvement on black, so far as the houses were

concerned. An order was accordingly issued, in the name of the Duke

and Duchess of Sutherland, that all the small tenants on both sides

the public road, where it stretches on the northern coast from the

confines of Reay to the Kyle of Tongue, a distance of about thirty

miles, should straightway build themselves new houses of stone and

mortar, according to a prescribed plan and specification. Pharaoh's

famous order could not have bred greater consternation. But the only

alternative given was summed up in the magic word _removal_; and the

poor Highlanders, dejected, tamed, broken in spirit as in means, well

knew from experience what the magic word meant. And so, as their

prototypes set themselves to gather stubble for their bricks, the poor

Highlanders began to build. We again quote from M'Leod:

'Previous to this, in the year 1829, I and my family had been forced

away, like others, being particularly obnoxious to those in authority

for sometimes showing an inclination to oppose their tyranny, and

therefore we had to be made examples of to frighten the rest; but in

1833 I made a tour of the district, when the building was going on,

and shall endeavour to describe a small part of what met my eye on

that occasion. In one locality (and this was a specimen of the rest) I

saw fourteen different squads of masons at work, with the natives

attending them. Old grey-headed men, worn down by previous hardship

and present want, were to be seen carrying stones, and wheeling them

and other materials on barrows, or conveying them on their backs to

the buildings, and with their tottering limbs and trembling hands

straining to raise them on the walls. The young men also, after

toiling all night at sea endeavouring for subsistence, were obliged to

yield their exhausted frames to the labours of the day. Even female

labour could not be dispensed with; the strong as well as the weak,

the delicate and sickly, and (shame to their oppressors) even the

pregnant, barefooted and scantily clothed, were obliged to join in

those rugged, unfeminine labours. In one instance I saw the husband

quarrying stones, and the wife and children dragging them along in an

old cart to the building. Such were the building scenes of that

period. The poor people had often to give the last morsel of food they

possessed to feed the masons, and subsist on shell-fish themselves.

This went on for several years, in the course of which many hundreds

of these houses were erected on unhospitable spots unfit for a human

residence.'

We add another extract from the same writer:

'It might be thought,' adds M'Leod, 'that the design of forcing the

people to build such houses was to provide for their comfort and

accommodation, but there seems to have been quite a different

object,--which, I believe, was the true motive,--and that was to hide

the misery that prevailed. There had been a great sensation created in

the public mind by the cruelties exercised in these districts; and it

was thought that a number of neat white houses, ranged on each side of

the road, would take the eye of strangers and visitors, and give a

practical contradiction to the rumours afloat. Hence the poor

creatures were forced to resort to such means, and to endure such

hardships and privations as I have described, to carry the scheme into

effect. And after they had spent their remaining all, and more than

their all, on the erection of these houses, and involved themselves in

debt, for which they have been harassed and pursued ever since, what

are these erections but whitened tombs! many of them now ten years in

existence, and still without proper doors or windows, destitute of

furniture and of comfort,--the unhappy lairs of a heart-broken,

squalid, fast-degenerating race.'

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