NEW FASHIONS AND OLD CLOTHES

Then there is the unsolved problem of clothing. As in the case of

food, so with dress; the general effect of the organization of the

department stores in the different neighborhoods can be only

misleading and confusing. Many misleading devices that would no longer

deceive the older residents are tried again on the newcomer.

The women at first find it difficult to judge of values and prices.

The local stores are there with the bargain counter and the special

sale and all the other devices. The Poles and the Lithuanians with

whom we have talked have dwelt especially on the helplessness of their

countrywomen in the hands of the unscrupulous merchant or the shrewd

clerk.

Clothing presents to even the enlightened and the sophisticated a most

difficult problem in domestic management. "Fashion wears out more

garments than the man." The anthropologist, the physiologist, and the

sociologist are all concerned to explain why the clothing worn to-day

is often so unsuited to bodily needs as well as to the demands of

beauty and fitness.[39] To a very real extent practices of waste

prevail in the selection of clothing, and to that extent neither

reason nor art finds a place in the scheme. Where an attempt at

economy is made, the influence of the new science of hygiene is

impeded by old ideas of durability. So that from the well-to-do of the

community comes little suggestion that can be of service in

directing the expenditures for clothing of any other group.

[Illustration: IT'S A LONG WAY FROM THIS ELABORATE CZECHO-SLOVAK

COSTUME TO THE MODERN AMERICAN STYLES]

The foreign born are faced with a particularly difficult problem. They

often come from places where dress served to show where one came from,

and who one was. In the United States, dress serves to conceal one's

origin and relationships, and there results an almost inexorable

dilemma. Follow the Old-World practice, and show who you are and where

you come from, and the result is that you remain alien and different

and that your children will not stay with you "outside the gates." Or

follow the fashion and be like others, and the meager income is

dissipated before your eyes, with meager results. The Croatians have

emphasized the waste of American dress and the immodest styles often

worn, while the Italians have chiefly dwelt upon the friction between

parents and children.

In some neighborhoods Jewish agents go about offering clothing on the

installment plan at prices much higher than those charged even in

inefficient neighborhood shops. Shoes are particularly a source of

difficulty, both those for the younger children and those for the

older boy or girl who goes to work. In some neighborhoods where the

older women go barefooted and are thought to do so because they wish

to cling to their Old-World customs, they are simply saving, so that

the children may wear "American shoes."

Certainly the foreign-born woman who undertakes to manage her family's

affairs in an American community is confronted by no easy task. The

question arises as to what might be done to render that task less

difficult. The dull of sight cannot lead the blind at a very swift

pace. But certain steps might be taken to simplify the problems for

all consumers, including the foreign born. In fact, whatever renders

the system of retail dealing less chaotic and less wasteful will

benefit all. The establishment of markets for foodstuffs at

appropriate places where grower and consumer can meet, and certain

costs of double cartage can be eliminated, is, for example, a

recognized item in reform of the present food traffic.

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