largest cake is very remarkable; but it must be borne in mind that the
salt in Bílma is in a fluid state, and is formed into this shape by
pouring it into a wooden mould. This pedestal or loaf of salt (kántu) is
equal to five of the smaller cakes, which are called áserím; and each
áserím equals four of the smallest cakes, which are called “fótu.” The
bags, made of the leaves of the dúm-palm (or the “kábba”), in which
these loaves are packed up, are called “tákrufa.” But the finest salt is
generally in loose grains; and this is the only palatable salt, while
the ordinary salt of Bílma is very bitter to the European palate, and
spoils everything: but the former is more than three times the value of
the latter. The price paid in Bílma is but two zékkas for three kántus.
In the evening there was “urgí,” or “éddil” (playing), and “ráwa” or
“adéllul” (dancing), all over the large camp of the salt-caravan, and
the drummers or “masugánga” were all vying with each other, when I
observed that our drummer, Hassan, who was proud of his talent, and used
to call for a little present, was quite outdone by the drummer of that
portion of the caravan which was nearest to us, who performed his work
with great skill, and caused general enthusiasm among the dancing
people. The many lively and merry scenes, ranging over a wide district,
itself picturesque, and illuminated by large fires in the dusk of
evening, presented a cheerful picture of animated native life, looking
at which a traveller might easily forget the weak points discoverable in
other phases of life in the desert.
[Sidenote: Sunday, December 15th.]
The general start of the united “aïri,” or caravan, took place with
great spirit; and a wild enthusiastic cry, raised over the whole extent
of the encampment, answered to the beating of the drums. For, though the
Kél-owí are greatly civilized by the influence of the black population,
nevertheless they are still “half demons,” while the thoroughbred and
freeborn Amóshagh (whatever name he may bear, whether Tárki, ba-
Ásbenchi, Kindín, or Chapáto) is regarded by all the neighbouring
tribes, Arabs as well as Africans, as a real demon (“jin”).
Notwithstanding all this uproar, we were rather astonished at the small
number of camels laden with salt, which formed Ánnur’s caravan; for they
did not exceed two hundred, and their loads in the aggregate would
realize in Kanó at the very utmost three thousand dollars, which, if
taken as the principal revenue of the chief, seems very little. The
whole number of the caravan did not exceed two thousand camels.
However enthusiastically the people had answered to the call of the
drums, the loading of the camels took a long time; and the old chief
himself had remarkably few people to get ready his train: but the reason
probably was, that he was obliged to leave as many people behind as
possible for the security of the country. When at length we set out, the
view which presented itself was really highly exciting; for here a whole
nation was in motion, going on its great errand of supplying the wants
of other tribes, and bartering for what they stood in need of
themselves. All the drums were beating; and one string of camels after
the other marched up in martial order, led on by the “mádogu,” the most
experienced and steadfast among the servants or followers of each chief.
It was clear that our last night’s encampment had been chosen only on
account of its being well protected all around by ridges of rock; for on
setting out to-day we had to follow up, in the beginning, a course due
west, in order to return into our main direction along the valley. We
then gradually began to turn round the very remarkable Mount Mári, which
here assumed the figure shown in the sketch. Further on I saw the people
busy in digging up a species of edible bulbous roots called “adíllewan”
by the Kél-owí. This, I think, besides the “bába,” or “níle” (the
_Indigofera endecaphylla_), the first specimens of which we had observed
two days ago shooting up unostentatiously among the herbage, was the
most evident proof that we had left the region of the true desert,
though we had still to cross a very sterile tract.
[Illustration]
Having changed our direction from south to south-west, about noon we
entered the highroad coming directly from Ásodi, but which was, in fact,
nothing better than a narrow pathway. Here we were winding through a
labyrinth of large detached projecting blocks, while Mount Mári
presented itself in an entirely different shape. Gradually the bottom of
the valley became free from blocks, and we were crossing and recrossing
the bed of the watercourse, when we met a small caravan belonging to my
friend the Emgédesi Ídder, who had been to Damerghú to buy corn. Shortly
afterwards, we encamped at the side of the watercourse, which is called
Adóral, and which joins, further downwards, another channel called
Wéllek, which runs close along the western range. Here we saw the first
specimens of the pendent nests of the weaver bird (_Ploceus
Abyssiniacus_).
[Illustration]
While I was filling up my journal in the afternoon, I received a visit
from Mohammed Býrji, who had this morning left Tin-téggana; he informed
me that the women and the old men whom we had left there had not
returned to Tintéllust, but had gone to Tintághalén. All the population
of the other villages in the northern districts of Aïr were likewise
retreating southwards during the absence of the salt-caravan.
[Sidenote: Monday, December 16th.]
On starting this morning we were glad to find some variety in the
vegetation; for instead of the monotonous talha-trees, which with some
justice have been called “vegetable mummies,”[197] the whole valley-
plain was adorned with beautiful spreading addwa- or tabórak-trees (the
_Balanites Ægyptiaca_), the foliage of which often reached down to the
very ground, forming a dense canopy of the freshest green. After winding
along, and crossing and recrossing the small channel, the path ascended
the rocky ground, and we soon got sight of the mountains of Bághzen,
looking out from behind the first mountain-range, from whose southern
end a point called Ánfisék rises to a considerable elevation. This
higher level, however, was not bare and naked, but overgrown with the
“knotted” grass bú-rékkeba and with the addwa- and gawo-tree, while on
our left the broad but nevertheless sharply-marked peak of Mount Mári
towered over the whole, and gave to the landscape a peculiar character.
At an early hour we encamped between buttresses of scattered blocks
shooting out of the plain, which seems to stretch to the very foot of
the Bághzen, and to be noted pre-eminently as the Plain, “erárar.”
In the afternoon I walked to a considerable distance, first to a hill
S.W. from our camp, from which I was able to take several angles, and
then to the well. The latter was at the distance of a mile and a half
from our tent in a westerly direction, and was carefully walled up with
stones; it measured three fathoms and a half to the surface of the
water, while the depth of the water itself was at present little less
than three fathoms, so that it is evident that there is water here at
all seasons. Its name is Álbes. As, on account of our slow travelling,
we had been four days without water, the meeting with a well was rather
agreeable to us. Between the well and the foot of the mountain there was
a temporary encampment of shepherds, who sent a sheep and a good deal of
cheese to the old chief.
Here we remained the two following days, in order to repose from the
fatigue of our sham travelling! I went once more all over my Emgédesi
collection, and made a present to the servants of the mission, of
twenty-two zékkas of Bílma dates, which I bought from the people of the
caravan; they were all thankful for this little present. I was extremely
glad to find that even the Tunisian shushán, when he had to receive
orders only from me, behaved much better; and I wrote from his recital a
Góber story which, as being characteristic of the imagination of the
natives, and illustrating their ancient pagan worship of the dodó, might
perhaps prove of interest even to the general reader. The several
divisions of the “aïri” came slowly up; among them we observed the Kél-
azanéres, the people of Lúsu, the chief himself having gone on in
advance, as I observed above.
[Sidenote: Thursday, December 19th.]
Our heavy caravan at length set out again, the camels having now
recovered a little from the trying march over the naked desert which
divides the mountainous district of Ásben from the “hénderi-Tedá,” the
fertile hollow of the Tébu country. It attracted my attention, that the
shrubby and thick-leaved “allwot” (the blue _Crucifera_ mentioned
before) had ceased altogether; even the eternal bú-rékkeba began to be
scarce, while only a few solitary trees were scattered about.
While marching over this dreary plain, we noticed some Tébu merchants,
natives of Dírki, with only three camels, who had come with the salt-
caravan from Bílma, and were going to Kanó; from them we learnt that a
Tébu caravan had started from Kawár for Bórnu at the time of the ʿAïd el
kebír. The example of these solitary travellers, indeed, might perhaps
be followed with advantage by Europeans also, in order to avoid the
country of the Azkár and the insecure border-districts of the Kél-owí,
especially if they chose to stay in the Tébu oasis till they had
obtained the protection of one of the great men of this country.
For a little while the plain was adorned with talha-trees; but then it
became very rugged, like a rough floor of black basalt, through which
wound a narrow path, pressing the whole caravan into one long string. At
length, at half-past two o’clock in the afternoon, after having
traversed extremely rugged ground, we began to descend from this broad
basaltic level, and having crossed the dry watercourse of a winter
torrent, entered the valley Télliya, which has a good supply of trees,
but very little herbage. A cemetery here gave indication of the
occasional or temporary residence of nomadic settlers.
On ascending again from the bottom of the valley to a higher level, and
looking backwards, we obtained a fine view of Mount Ajúri, at the foot
of which lies Chémia, a valley and village celebrated for its date-
trees. It was not our fate to see any of those places in Ásben which are
distinguished by the presence of this tree—neither the valley just
mentioned, nor Iferwán, nor Ír-n-Allem; and a visit to them will form
one of the interesting objects of some future traveller in this country.
Having kept along the plain for an hour, we encamped at a little
distance west from the dry bed of a watercourse running from north to
south along the eastern foot of a low basaltic ridge, with a fine
display of trees, but a scanty one of herbage. I went to ascend the
ridge, supposing it to be connected with the Bághzen, but found that it
was completely separated from the latter by a depression or hollow quite
bare and naked.
[Illustration]
This was the best point from whence to obtain a view over the eastern
flank of Mount Bághzen, with its deep crevices or ravines, which seemed
to separate the mountain-mass into several distinct groups; and in the
evening I made the sketch of it given above.
However, we had full leisure to contemplate this mountain, which is not
distinguished by great elevation, the highest peaks being little more
than 2000 feet above the plain[198]; but it is interesting, as
consisting probably of basaltic formation. We staid here longer than we
desired, as we did not find an opportunity to penetrate into the glens
in its interior, which, from this place, seem excessively barren, but
are said to contain some favoured and inhabited spots, where even corn
is reared. But our companions spoke with timorous exclamations of the
numbers of lions which infest these retired mountain-passes; and not one
of them would offer himself as a companion. The reason of our longer
stay in this place was, that our camels had strayed to a very great
distance southwards, so that they could not be found in the forenoon of
the following day. The blame of letting them stray was thrown upon
Hassan, whose inferiority as a drummer I had occasion to notice above.
How he was punished Mr. Richardson has described; and I will only add
that the handkerchief which he paid, was to be given to the “serkí-n-
kárfi”[199] (“the task-master,” properly “the master of the iron” or “of
the force”); but the whole affair was rather a piece of pleasantry.
In the morning Mghás, the chief of Téllwa, a fine, sturdy man mounted
upon a strong grey horse, passed by, going southward, followed by a long
string of camels; and shortly afterwards a small caravan of people of
Selúfiet, who had bought corn in Damerghú, passed in the opposite
direction.
[Sidenote: Saturday, December 21st.]
The weather was clear and cheerful; and the sun was warmer than
hitherto. We went on, and approached a district more favoured by nature,
when, having passed an irregular formation in a state of great
decomposition, we reached about ten o’clock the valley Unán, or rather a
branch-wádi of the chief valley of that name, where dúm-palms began to
appear, at first solitary and scattered about, but gradually forming a
handsome grove, particularly after the junction with the chief valley,
where a thick cluster of verdure, formed by a variety of trees, greeted
the eye. There is also a village of the name of Unán, lying on the
border of the principal valley a little higher up; and wells occur in
different spots. But the valley was not merely rich in vegetation—it was
the richest indeed as yet seen on this road—it was also enlivened by
man; and after we had met two Íghdalén whom I had known in Ágades, we
passed a large troop of Ikádmawen, who were busy watering their camels,
cattle, and goats at one of the wells. We also saw here the first
specimens of stone houses, which characterize the district to which the
valley Unán forms the entrance-hall, if I may use the expression. On its
western side is an irregular plain, where a division of the salt-caravan
lay encamped.
Proceeding then, after midday we passed by a low white cone on our left,
after which the valley, with its variety of vegetation, and animated as
it was by numerous herds of goats, made a cheerful impression. Here the
remains of stone dwellings became numerous; and further on we passed an
entire village consisting of such houses, which, as I was distinctly
informed, constituted in former times one of the principal settlements
of the Kél-gerés, who were then masters of all the territory as far as
the road to Ágades. The whole valley here formed a thick grove of dúm-
palms; and stone houses, entire or in ruins, were scattered all about.
About three o’clock in the afternoon we left it for an hour, traversing
a rocky flat with a low ridge of basalt ranging on our right, when we
descended again into the dúm-valley, which had been winding round on the
same side, and encamped, at half-past four o’clock in the afternoon, in
the midst of very wild and rank vegetation nourished by an immense
torrent which occasionally rolls its floods along the channel, and which
had left, on the stems of the baggarúwa-trees with which it was lined,
evident traces of the depth which it may sometimes attain. The bed of
the torrent was thickly overgrown with wild melons.
Although there is no well in the neighbourhood, we were to stay here the
two following days, in order to give the camels a good feed. A well,
called Tánis-n-tánode, lies lower down the valley, but at a considerable
distance. The valley itself runs south-westward: by some it is said to
join the Erázar-n-Bargót; but this seems scarcely possible. Numerous
flocks of wild pigeons passed over our heads the following morning,
looking for water. The monotony of the halt was interrupted, in the
course of the day, by the arrival of Hámma, who had been to Áfasás, and
by that of Astáfidet, the young titular Kél-owí chief residing in Ásodi,
among whose companions or followers was a very intelligent and
communicative man of the name of El Hasár, who gave me a great deal of
interesting information. All the eminences in the neighbourhood consist
of basaltic formation.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, December 24th.]
We again moved on a little, following the rich valley, which in some
places reminded me of the scenery of the Upper Nile, the only difference
being that here the broad sandy bottom of the watercourse takes the
place of the fine river in the scenery of Nubia. We made a short halt on
the road, in order to supply ourselves with water from the well which I
mentioned before. About noon, the fresh fleshy allwot, which had not
been observed by us for several days, again appeared, to the great
delight of the camels, which like it more than anything else, and,
having been deprived of it for some time, attacked it with the utmost
greediness. Two miles and a half further on, where the valley widened to
a sort of irregular plain with several little channels, we encamped;
there was a profusion of herbage all around.
It was Christmas eve; but we had nothing to celebrate it with, and we
were cast down by the sad news of the appearance of the cholera in
Tripoli. This we had learned during our march, from a small caravan
which had left that place three months previously without bringing us a
single line, or even as much as a greeting. The eternal bitter “túwo”
was to be devoured to-day also, as we had no means of adding a little
festivity to our repast.
We remained here the two following days, and were entertained on the
morning of Christmas day by a performance of Astáfidet’s musicians. This
was a somewhat cheerful holiday entertainment, although our visitors had
not that object in view, but merely plied their talents to obtain a
present. There were only two of them, a drummer and a flutist; and
though they did not much excel the other virtuosi of the country, whose
abilities we had already tested, nevertheless, having regard to the
occasion, we were greatly pleased with them. Here I took leave of my
best Kél-owí friend, Hámma, a trustworthy man in every respect—except,
perhaps, as regards the softer sex—and a cheerful companion, to whom the
whole mission, and I in particular, were under great obligations. He, as
well as Mohammed Býrji, the youthful grandson of Ánnur, who accompanied
him on this occasion, were to return hence with Astáfidet, in order to
assist this young titular prince in his arduous task of maintaining
order in the country during the absence of the old chief and the greater
part of the male population of the north-eastern districts. They were
both cheerful, though they felt some sorrow at parting; but they
consoled themselves with the hope of seeing me again one day. But, poor
fellows, they were both doomed to fall in the sanguinary struggle which
broke out between the Kél-gerés and the Kél-owí in 1854.
[Footnote 197: It is remarkable and significant, that the Tawárek employ
one and the same name for talha and firewood in general, namely the word
“ésarér;” but it is still more significant that the Kanúri or Bórnu seem
to employ the same name, “kindín,” for the Tárki and the talha.]
[Footnote 198: It is scarcely necessary to say that the village Bághzen,
reported to be situated on the very highest peak of these mountains,
does not exist. There is no village of this name.]
[Footnote 199: Kárfi has both meanings, by a metaphor easily to be
understood; da-kárfi is “by force.”]
CHAP. XXI.
THE BORDER-REGION OF THE DESERT. — THE TAGÁMA.
[Sidenote: Friday, December 27th.]
At length we were to exchange our too easy wandering for the rate of
real travelling. Early in the morning a consultation was held with the
elder men of the Kél-táfidet, who had come from their villages. We then
set out, taking leave of the regions behind us, and looking forward with
confidence and hope to the unknown or half-known regions before us.
The valley continued to be well clothed with a profusion of herbage, but
it was closely hemmed in on both sides; after a march, however, of four
miles and a half, it widened again to more than a mile, and began
gradually to lose its character of a valley altogether; but even here
the allwot was still seen, although of a stunted and dry appearance. We
then left the green hollow, which is the valley Bargót, and I thought we
should now enter upon the Hammáda or “ténere;” but after a while the
valley again approached close on our left. To my disappointment, we
encamped even before noon, at the easy northern slope of the rocky
ground, where there is a watering-place called Aghálle. The afternoon,
however, passed away very pleasantly, as I had a conversation with the
old chief, who honoured me with a visit, and touched on many points of
the highest interest.
[Sidenote: Saturday, December 28th.]
Starting at a tolerably early hour, we ascended the slope; but no sooner
had we reached the level of the plain than we halted, beating the drum
until all the different strings of camels had come up; we then
proceeded. At first the plain consisted almost exclusively of gravel
overgrown with herbage and allwot, with only now and then a rock seen
projecting; but gradually it became more pebbly, and was then
intersected by a great many low crests of rock consisting chiefly of
gneiss. We gradually ascended towards a low ridge called Abadárjen,
remarkable as forming in this district the northern border of the
elevated sandy plain, which seems to stretch across a great part of the
continent, and forms the real transition-land between the rocky
wilderness of the desert and the fertile arable zone of Central Africa.
This sandy ledge is the real home of the giraffe and of the _Antilope
leucoryx_.
Just about noon we entered upon this district, leaving the rocky range
at less than a mile on our left, and seeing before us a sandy level
broken only now and then by blocks of granite thickly overgrown with the
“knotted” grass called bú-rékkeba, and dotted with scattered talha-
trees. Two miles further on we encamped. A very long ear of géro
(_Pennisetum typhoïdeum_), which was broken from a plant growing wild
near the border of the path, was the most interesting object met with
to-day, while an ostrich-egg, though accidentally the very first which
we had yet seen on this journey, afforded us more material interest, as
it enabled us to indulge our palates with a little tasteful _hors
d’œuvre_, which caused us more delight, perhaps, than scientific
travellers are strictly justified in deriving from such causes. Our
caravan to-day had been joined by Gajére, a faithful servant of Ánnur,
who was coming from Ágades, and who, though a stranger at the time, very
shortly became closely attached to me, and at present figures among the
most agreeable reminiscences of my journey.
[Sidenote: Sunday, December 29th.]
When we started we were surprised at the quantity of hád with which the
plain began to be covered. This excellent plant is regarded by the Arab
as the most nutritious of all the herbs of the desert, for the camel;
and in the western part of that arid zone it seems to constitute its
chief food. Numerous footprints of giraffes were seen, besides those of
gazelles and ostriches, and towards the end of the march those of the
Welwaiji, the large and beautiful antelope called _leucoryx_, from the
skin of which the Tawárek make their large bucklers. Further on, the
plain presented some ups and downs, being at times naked, at others well
wooded and overgrown with grass. At length, after a good day’s march we
encamped.