TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES
IN
NORTH AND CENTRAL AFRICA.
VOL. I.
LONDON:
Printed by SPOTTISWOODE & CO.
New-street Square.
[Illustration: Drawn by J. M. Bernatz, from a Sketch by Dr. Barth.
M. & N. Hanhart, lith. et impt.
AÚDERAS.
Novr. 2nd. 1850.]
TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES
IN
NORTH AND CENTRAL AFRICA:
BEING A
JOURNAL OF AN EXPEDITION
UNDERTAKEN
UNDER THE AUSPICES OF H.B.M.’S GOVERNMENT,
IN THE YEARS
1849-1855.
BY
HENRY BARTH, PH.D., D.C.L.
FELLOW OF THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL AND ASIATIC SOCIETIES,
_&c. &c._
IN FIVE VOLUMES.
VOL. I.
LONDON:
LONGMAN, BROWN, GREEN, LONGMANS, & ROBERTS.
1857.
_The right of translation is reserved._
TO THE RIGHT HONOURABLE
THE EARL OF CLARENDON, K.G., G.C.B.
ETC. ETC. ETC.
HER MAJESTY’S SECRETARY OF STATE FOR FOREIGN AFFAIRS,
THESE VOLUMES,
CONTAINING AN ACCOUNT OF
TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES IN NORTH AND CENTRAL AFRICA,
MADE UNDER HIS LORDSHIP’S AUSPICES,
ARE,
IN GRATEFUL ACKNOWLEDGMENT FOR MANY ACTS OF KINDNESS,
Dedicated,
BY HIS OBLIGED AND FAITHFUL SERVANT,
THE AUTHOR,
[Illustration: DR. BARTH’S TRAVELS IN NORTH AND CENTRAL AFRICA
Sheet No. 1. GENERAL SKETCH of AFRICA, Showing the ROUTES OF DR.
BARTH’S TRAVELS 1850-1855.
Drawn by A. Petermann.
_Engraved by E. Weller._
_London, Longman & Co._]
PREFACE.
* * * * *
On the 5th of October, 1849, at Berlin, Professor Carl Ritter informed
me that the British Government was about to send Mr. Richardson on
a mission to Central Africa, and that they had offered, through the
Chevalier Bunsen, to allow a German traveller to join the mission,
provided he was willing to contribute two hundred pounds for his own
personal travelling expenses.
I had commenced lecturing at the University of Berlin on comparative
geography and the colonial commerce of antiquity, and had just at
that time published the first volume of my “Wanderings round the
Mediterranean,” which comprised my journey through Barbary. Having
undertaken this journey quite alone, I spent nearly my whole time with
the Arabs, and familiarized myself with that state of human society
where the camel is man’s daily companion, and the culture of the
date-tree his chief occupation. I made long journeys through desert
tracts; I travelled all round the Great Syrtis, and, passing through
the picturesque little tract of Cyrenaica, traversed the whole country
towards Egypt; I wandered about for above a month in the desert valleys
between Aswán and Kosér, and afterwards pursued my journey by land all
the way through Syria and Asia Minor to Constantinople.
While traversing these extensive tracts, where European comfort is
never altogether out of reach, where lost supplies may be easily
replaced, and where the protection of European powers is not quite
without avail, I had often cast a wistful look towards those unknown or
little-known regions in the interior, which stand in frequent, though
irregular, connection with the coast. As a lover of ancient history,
I had been led towards those regions rather through the commerce of
ancient Carthage, than by the thread of modern discovery; and the
desire to know something more about them acted on me like a charm. In
the course of a conversation I once held with a Háusa slave in Káf,
in the regency of Tunis, he, seeing the interest I took in his native
country, made use of these simple but impressive words: “Please God,
you shall go and visit Kanó.” These words were constantly ringing in
my ears; and though overpowered for a time by the vivid impressions
of interesting and picturesque countries, they echoed with renewed
intensity as soon as I was restored to the tranquillity of European
life.
During my three years’ travelling I had ample opportunity of testing
the efficacy of British protection; I experienced the kindness of all
Her Britannic Majesty’s consuls from Tangiers to Brúsa, and often
enjoyed their hospitality. It was solely their protection which enabled
me to traverse with some degree of security those more desert tracts
through which I wandered. Colonel Warrington, Her Majesty’s consul in
Tripoli, who seems to have had some presentiment of my capabilities as
an African explorer, even promised me his full assistance if I should
try to penetrate into the interior. Besides this, my admiration of
the wide extension of the British over the globe, their influence,
their language, and their government, was such that I felt a strong
inclination to become the humble means of carrying out their
philanthropic views for the progressive civilization of the neglected
races of Central Africa.
Under these circumstances, I volunteered cheerfully to accompany Mr.
Richardson, on the sole condition, however, that the exploration of
Central Africa should be made the principal object of the mission,
instead of a secondary one, as had been originally contemplated.
In the meantime, while letters were interchanged between Berlin,
London, and Paris (where Mr. Richardson at that time resided), my
father, whom I had informed of my design, entreated me to desist from
my perilous undertaking, with an earnestness which my filial duty did
not allow me to resist; and giving way to Dr. Overweg, who in youthful
enthusiasm came immediately forward to volunteer, I receded from my
engagement. But it was too late, my offer having been officially
accepted in London; and I therefore allayed my father’s anxiety, and
joined the expedition.
It was a generous act of Lord Palmerston, who organized the expedition,
to allow two foreign gentlemen to join it instead of one. A sailor was
besides attached to it; and a boat was also provided, in order to give
full scope to the object of exploration. The choice of the sailor was
unfortunate, and Mr. Richardson thought it best to send him back from
Múrzuk; but the boat, which was carried throughout the difficult and
circuitous road by Múrzuk, Ghát, Aïr, and Zínder, exciting the wonder
and astonishment of all the tribes in the interior, ultimately reached
its destination, though the director of the expedition himself had in
the meanwhile unfortunately succumbed.
Government also allowed us to take out arms. At first it had been
thought that the expedition ought to go unarmed, inasmuch as Mr.
Richardson had made his first journey to Ghát without arms. But on that
occasion he had gone as a private individual, without instruments,
without presents, without anything; and we were to unite with the
character of an expedition that of a mission,—that is to say, we were
to explore the country while endeavouring at the same time to establish
friendship with the chiefs and rulers of the different territories. It
may be taken for granted that we should never have crossed the frontier
of Aïr had we been unarmed; and when I entered upon my journey alone,
it would have been impossible for me to proceed without arms through
countries which are in a constant state of war, where no chief or ruler
can protect a traveller except with a large escort, which is sure to
run away as soon as there is any real danger.
It may be possible to travel without arms in some parts of Southern
Africa; but there is this wide difference, that the natives of the
latter are exclusively Pagans, while, along all those tracts which
I have been exploring, Islamism and Paganism are constantly arrayed
against each other in open or secret warfare, even if we leave out of
view the unsafe state of the roads through large states consisting,
though loosely connected together, of almost independent provinces.
The traveller in such countries must carry arms; yet he must exercise
the utmost discretion in using them. As for myself, I avoided giving
offence to the men with whom I had to deal in peaceful intercourse,
endeavouring to attach them to me by esteem and friendship. I have
never proceeded onwards without leaving a sincere friend behind me, and
thus being sure that, if obliged to retrace my steps, I might do so
with safety.
But I have more particular reason to be grateful for the opinion
entertained of me by the British Government; for after Mr. Richardson
had, in March, 1851, fallen a victim to the noble enterprise to which
he had devoted his life, Her Majesty’s Government honoured me with
their confidence, and, in authorizing me to carry out the objects
of the expedition, placed sufficient means at my disposal for the
purpose. The position in which I was thus placed must be my excuse for
undertaking, after the successful accomplishment of my labours, the
difficult task of relating them in a language not my own.
In matters of science and humanity all nations ought to be united by
one common interest, each contributing its share in proportion to its
own peculiar disposition and calling. If I have been able to achieve
something in geographical discovery, it is difficult to say how much
of it is due to English, how much to German influence; for science is
built up of the materials collected by almost every nation, and, beyond
all doubt, in geographical enterprise in general none has done more
than the English, while, in Central Africa in particular, very little
has been achieved by any but English travellers. Let it not, therefore,
be attributed to an undue feeling of nationality if I correct any error
of those who preceded me. It would be unpardonable if a traveller
failed to penetrate further, or to obtain a clearer insight into the
customs and the polity of the nations visited by him, or if he were
unable to delineate the country with greater accuracy and precision,
than those who went before him.
Every succeeding traveller is largely indebted to the labours of his
predecessor. Thus our expedition would never have been able to achieve
what it did, if Oudney, Denham, and Clapperton had not gone before
us; nor would these travellers have succeeded so far, had Lyon and
Ritchie not opened the road to Fezzán; nor would Lyon have been able to
reach Tejérri, if Captain (now Rear-admiral) Smyth had not shown the
way to Ghírza. To Smyth, seconded by Colonel Warrington, is due the
merit of having attracted the attention of the British Government to
the favourable situation of Tripoli for facilitating intercourse with
Central Africa; and if at present the river-communication along the
Tsádda or Bénuwé seems to hold out a prospect of an easier approach
to those regions, the importance of Tripoli must not be underrated,
for it may long remain the most available port from which a steady
communication with many parts of that continent can be kept up.
I had the good fortune to see my discoveries placed on a stable basis
before they were brought to a close, by the astronomical observations
of Dr. Vogel[1], who was sent out by Her Britannic Majesty’s Government
for the purpose of joining the expedition; and I have only to regret
that this gentleman was not my companion from the beginning of my
journey, as exact astronomical observations, such as he has made,
are of the utmost importance in any geographical exploration. By
moving the generally-accepted position of Kúkawa more than a degree
to the westward, the whole map of the interior has been changed very
considerably. The position assigned by Dr. Vogel to Zínder gives to
the whole western route, from Ghát through the country of Ásben,
a well-fixed terminating point, while at the same time it serves
to check my route to Timbúktu. If, however, this topic be left out
of consideration, it will be found that the maps made by me on the
journey, under many privations, were a close approximation to the
truth. But now all that pertains to physical features and geographical
position has been laid down, and executed with artistic skill and
scientific precision, by Dr. Petermann.
The principal merit which I claim for myself in this respect is that
of having noted the whole configuration of the country; and my chief
object has been to represent the tribes and nations with whom I came in
contact, in their historical and ethnographical relation to the rest of
mankind, as well as in their physical relation to that tract of country
in which they live. If, in this respect, I have succeeded in placing
before the eyes of the public a new and animated picture, and connected
those apparently savage and degraded tribes more intimately with the
history of races placed on a higher level of civilization, I shall be
amply recompensed for the toils and dangers I have gone through.
My companion, Dr. Overweg, was a clever and active young geologist;
but, unfortunately, he was deficient in that general knowledge of
natural science which is required for comprehending all the various
phenomena occurring on a journey into unknown regions. Having never
before risked his life on a dangerous expedition, he never for a moment
doubted that it might not be his good fortune to return home in safety;
and he therefore did not always bestow that care upon his journal which
is so desirable in such an enterprise. Nevertheless almost all his
observations of latitude have been found correct, while his memoranda,
if deciphered at leisure, might still yield a rich harvest.
One of the principal objects which Her Britannic Majesty’s Government
had always in view in these African expeditions was the abolition of
the slave-trade. This, too, was zealously advocated by the late Mr.
Richardson, and, I trust, has been as zealously carried out by myself
whenever it was in my power to do so, although, as an explorer on a
journey of discovery, I was induced, after mature reflection, to place
myself under the protection of an expeditionary army, whose object
it was to subdue another tribe, and eventually to carry away a large
proportion of the conquered into slavery. Now, it should always be
borne in mind that there is a broad distinction between the slave-trade
and domestic slavery. The foreign slave-trade may, comparatively
speaking, be easily abolished, though the difficulties of watching
over contraband attempts have been shown sufficiently by many years’
experience. With the abolition of the slave-trade all along the
northern and south-western coast of Africa, slaves will cease to be
brought down to the coast; and in this way a great deal of the mischief
and misery necessarily resulting from this inhuman traffic will be cut
off. But this, unfortunately, forms only a small part of the evil.
There can be no doubt that the most horrible topic connected with
slavery is slave-hunting; and this is carried on not only for the
purpose of supplying the foreign market, but, in a far more extensive
degree, for supplying the wants of domestic slavery. Hence it was
necessary that I should become acquainted with the real state of
these most important features of African society, in order to speak
clearly about them; for with what authority could I expatiate on the
horrors and the destruction accompanying such an expedition, if I
were not speaking as an eye-witness? But having myself accompanied
such a host on a grand scale, I shall be able, in the third volume
of my narrative, to lay before the public a picture of the cheerful
comfort, as well as the domestic happiness, of a considerable portion
of the human race, which, though in a low, is not at all in a degraded
state of civilization, as well as the wanton and cruel manner in
which this happiness is destroyed, and its peaceful abodes changed
into desolation. Moreover, this very expedition afforded me the best
opportunity of convincing the rulers of Bórnu of the injury which such
a perverse system entails upon themselves.
But besides this, it was of the utmost importance to visit the country
of the Músgu; for while that region had been represented by the last
expedition as an almost inaccessible mountain-chain, attached to that
group which Major Denham observed on his enterprising but unfortunate
expedition with Bú-Khalúm, I convinced myself on my journey to
Ádamáwa, from the information which I gathered from the natives, that
the mountains of Mándará are entirely insulated towards the east. I
considered it, therefore, a matter of great geographical importance to
visit that country, which, being situated between the rivers Shárí and
Bénuwé, could alone afford the proof whether there was any connection
between these two rivers.
I shall have frequent occasion to refer, in my journal, to
conversations which I had with the natives on religious subjects.
I may say that I have always avowed my religion, and defended the
pure principles of Christianity against those of Islám; only once
was I obliged, for about a month, in order to carry out my project
of reaching Timbúktu, to assume the character of a Moslim. Had I not
resorted to this expedient, it would have been absolutely impossible
to achieve such a project, since I was then under the protection of no
chief whatever, and had to pass through the country of the fanatic and
barbarous hordes of the Tawárek. But though, with this sole exception,
I have never denied my character of a Christian, I thought it prudent
to conform to the innocent prejudices of the people around me, adopting
a dress which is at once better adapted to the climate and more
decorous in the eyes of the natives. One great cause of my popularity
was the custom of alms-giving. By this means I won the esteem of the
natives, who took such a lively interest in my wellbeing that, even
when I was extremely ill, they used to say, “ʿAbd el Kerím[2] shall not
die.”
I have given a full description of my preparatory excursion through the
mountainous region round Tripoli; for though this is not altogether a
new country, anyone who compares my map with that of Lyon or Denham,
will see how little the very interesting physical features of this
tract had been known before, while, at a time when the whole Turkish
empire is about to undergo a great transformation, it seems well worth
while to lay also the state of this part of its vast dominions in a
more complete manner before the European public.
Of the first part of our expedition there has already appeared the
Narrative of the late Mr. Richardson, published from his manuscript
journals, which I was fortunately able to send home from Kúkawa. It
is full of minute incidents of travelling life, so very instructive
to the general reader. But from my point of view, I had to look
very differently at the objects which presented themselves; and Mr.
Richardson, if he had lived to work out his memoranda himself, would
not have failed to give to his Journal a more lasting interest.
Moreover, my stay in Ágades afforded me quite a different insight into
the life, the history, and geography of those regions, and brought me
into contact with Timbúktu.
Extending over a tract of country of twenty-four degrees from north to
south, and twenty degrees from east to west, in the broadest part of
the continent of Africa, my travels necessarily comprise subjects of
great interest and diversity.
After having traversed vast deserts of the most barren soil, and scenes
of the most frightful desolation, I met with fertile lands irrigated by
large navigable rivers and extensive central lakes, ornamented with the
finest timber, and producing various species of grain, rice, sesamum,
ground-nuts, in unlimited abundance, the sugar-cane, &c., together with
cotton and indigo, the most valuable commodities of trade. The whole
of Central Africa, from Bagírmi to the east as far as Timbúktu to the
west (as will be seen in my narrative), abounds in these products. The
natives of these regions not only weave their own cotton, but dye their
home-made shirts with their own indigo. The river, the far-famed Niger,
which gives access to these regions by means of its eastern branch the
Bénuwé, which I discovered, affords an uninterrupted navigable sheet
of water for more than six hundred miles into the very heart of the
country. Its western branch is obstructed by rapids at the distance of
about three hundred and fifty miles from the coast; but even at that
point it is probably not impassable in the present state of navigation,
while, higher up, the river opens an immense highroad for nearly one
thousand miles into the very heart of Western Africa, so rich in every
kind of produce.
The same diversity of soil and produce which the regions traversed
by me exhibit, is also observed with respect to man. Starting from
Tripoli in the north, we proceed from the settlements of the Arab and
the Berber, the poor remnants of the vast empires of the middle ages,
into a country dotted with splendid ruins from the period of the Roman
dominion, through the wild roving hordes of the Tawárek, to the Negro
and half-Negro tribes, and to the very border of the South African
nations. In the regions of Central Africa there exists not one and the
same stock, as in South Africa; but the greatest diversity of tribes,
or rather nations, prevails, with idioms entirely distinct.
The great and momentous struggle between Islamism and Paganism is here
continually going on, causing every day the most painful and affecting
results, while the miseries arising from slavery and the slave-trade
are here revealed in their most repulsive features. We find Mohammedan
learning engrafted on the ignorance and simplicity of the black races,
and the gaudy magnificence and strict ceremonial of large empires
side by side with the barbarous simplicity of naked and half-naked
tribes. We here trace a historical thread which guides us through this
labyrinth of tribes and overthrown kingdoms; and a lively interest is
awakened by reflecting on their possible progress and restoration,
through the intercourse with more civilized parts of the world.
Finally, we find here commerce in every direction radiating from Kanó,
the great emporium of Central Africa, and spreading the manufactures of
that industrious region over the whole of Western Africa.
I cannot conclude these prefatory remarks without expressing my
sincere thanks for the great interest shown in my proceedings by so
many eminent men in this country, as well as for the distinction of
the Victoria medal awarded to me by the Royal Geographical Society. As
I may flatter myself that, by the success which attended my efforts,
I have encouraged further undertakings in these as well as in other
quarters of Africa, so it will be my greatest satisfaction, if this
narrative should give a fresh impulse to the endeavours to open the
fertile regions of Central Africa to European commerce and civilization.
Whatever may be the value of this work, the Author believes that it
has been enhanced by the views and illustrations with which it is
embellished. These have been executed with artistical skill and the
strictest fidelity, from my sketches, by Mr. Bernatz, the well known
author of the beautiful “Scenes in Æthiopia.”
I will only add a few words relative to the spelling of native
names,—rather a difficult subject in a conflux of languages of very
different organization and unsettled orthography. I have constantly
endeavoured to express the sounds as correctly as possible, but in
the simplest way, assigning to the vowels always the same intonation
which they have in Italian, and keeping as closely as possible to the
principles adopted by the Asiatic Society. The greatest difficulty
related to the “g” sound, which is written in various ways by the
Africans, and puzzled even the Arabic writers of the middle ages.
While the “k” in North Africa approaches the g in “give,” it takes the
sound of it entirely in the Central African languages. On this ground,
although I preferred writing “Azkár,” while the name might have been
almost as well written “Azgár;” yet further into the interior the
application of the g, as in “Ágades,” “Góber,” and so on, was more
correct. The ع of the Arabs has been expressed, in conformity with the
various sounds which it adopts, by ʿa, ʿo and ʿu; the غ by gh, although
it sounds in many words like an r; ج by j; the چ, which is frequent in
the African languages, by ch.
The alphabet, therefore, which I have made use of is the following:—
_Vowels._
a as in cat.
á „ father.
ʿa (not English) not unlike a in dart.
e as in pen.
é like the first a in fatal.
i as in it.
í „ ravine.
o „ lot.
ó „ home.
ʿo (not English) not unlike o in noble.
u as in put.
ú „ adjure, true.
ʿu not unlike oo in doom.
y, at the end of words, instead of i.
_Diphthongs._
ai as i in tide (ay at the end of words).
oi (oy), as in noise.
au (aw), as ow in now.
_Consonants._
b as in beat.
d „ door.
f[3] „ fan.
g as in got.
j[4] „ join.
k „ keep.
l „ leave.
m „ man.
n „ not.
ñ „ the Spanish “campaña,” like ni in companion, onion.
p[3] „ pain.
r „ rain.
s „ son.
t „ tame.
v „ vain.
w „ win.
y „ yet.
z „ zeal.
_Double Consonants._
gh as in ghost, and the g in grumble.
ks as x in tax, excise.
kh as ch in the Scotch word loch.
th as in tooth.
ts as in Betsy.
ng as in wrong.
A few slight discrepancies in the spelling of names will, I trust, be
excused, the printing having already commenced before I had entirely
settled the orthography I would adopt.
HENRY BARTH, PH.D.
_St. John’s Wood, London,
May_ 1. 1857.
[Footnote 1: Some details will be considered in a Memoir to be subjoined
at the end of this work. It is to be hoped that Dr. Vogel’s calculations
themselves may be received in the meantime.]
[Footnote 2: “ʿAbd el Kerím,” meaning “Servant of the Merciful,” was the
name which I thought it prudent to adopt.]
[Footnote 3: p, ph, f, in many African languages, are constantly
interchanged, the same as r and dh, r and l.]
[Footnote 4: No distinction has been made between the different sounds
of j.]
CONTENTS
OF
THE FIRST VOLUME.
* * * * *
CHAPTER I.
Page
From Tunis to Tripoli 1
The First Start. — The Passage of the Syrtis. — Little Progress. —
Trials of Temper. — Our Companions. — An Old Friend. — Reach Tripoli.
CHAP. II.
Tripoli. — The Plain and the Mountain-slope; the Arab and the
Berber 17
An Excursion. — Arab Encampments. — Commencement of the Hilly Region. —
The Plateau. — Turkish Stronghold. — Berber Settlements. — The
Picturesque Fountain. — Wádí Welád ʿAli. — Khalaifa. — Beautiful
Ravine. — Um e’ Zerzán. — Enshéd e’ Sufét. — Roman Sepulchre. — Kikla.
— Wádí Kerdemín. — Rabda. — Kasr Ghurián. — Mount Tekút. — Kasr
Teghrínna. — Hanshír. — Wádí Rummána.
CHAP. III.
Fertile Mountain Region rich in ancient Remains 51
Wádí Rán. — Jebel Msíd. — Singular Monuments. — Structure Described. —
Conjectural Character. — Other Ancient Ruins. — Approach to Tarhóna. —
The Governor’s Encampment. — Ruins near ʿAín Shershára. — Kasr Dóga. —
Kasr Dawán. — Jebel Msíd — Meselláta. — Kasr Kerker. — The Cinyps. —
Leptis-Khoms.
CHAP. IV.
Departure for the Interior. — Arrival at Mizda. — Remains of a
Christian Church 85
The Departure. — ʿAín Zára. — Mejenín. — Wádí Haera. — The Boat crosses
the Defile. — Ghurián. — Kuléba. — Roman Milestones. — Mizda. — The
Eastern Village. — Jebel Durmán. — Wádí Sófejín. — Ruined Castle. —
Christian Remains.
CHAP. V.
Sculptures and Roman Remains in the Desert. — Gharíya 112
Roman Sepulchre in Wádí Talha. — Wádí Tagíje. — Remarkable Monument. —
Description of Monument. — Wádí Zemzem. — Roman Sepulchres at Taboníye.
— Gharíya. — Roman Gateway. — Arab Tower. — Roman Inscription. —
Gharíya e’ sherkíya. — The Hammáda. — Storms in the Desert. — End of
the Hammáda. — El Hasi, “the Well.”
CHAP. VI.
Wádí Sháti. — Old Jerma. — Arrival in Múrzuk 143
Wádí Sháti, or Shiyáti. — Éderí and its Gardens. — Wádí Shiúkh. — Sandy
Region. — Reach the Wádí. — Ugréfe. — Jerma Kadím. — The Last Roman
Monument. — The Groves of the Wádí. — End of the Wádí. — Arrival at
Múrzuk.
CHAP. VII.
Residence in Múrzuk 164
Delay. — Character of Múrzuk. — Ground-plan of Múrzuk.
CHAP. VIII.
The Desert. — Tasáwa. — Exactions of the Escort. — Delay
at Eláwen 171
Setting out from Múrzuk. — Tiggerurtín, the Village of the Tinýlkum. —
Gathering of the Caravan. — Tasáwa. — Arrival of the Tawárek Chiefs. —
Reformation of Islám. — Return to Múrzuk. — Move on finally. — Sháraba.
— Wádí Aberjúsh. — Rate of Travelling. — Join the Caravan. — Tesémmak.
— Wádí Eláwen. — Hatíta’s Intrigues.
CHAP. IX.
Singular Sculptures in the Desert. — The Mountain-pass 194
Hatíta. — Sculptures in Telísaghé. — Subject of Sculptures, Two Deities
Fighting about a Bull. — Herd of Bulls. — Cattle formerly Beasts of
Burden in the Desert. — Fine Valleys. — Breaking up of the Plateau. —
The Narrow Gutter-like Pass of Ralle. — Téliya. — Sérdales. — Valley
Tánesof. — Mount Ídinen. — The Traveller’s Mishap. — Astray in the
Desert. — The Wanderer Found. — Arrival at Ghát.
CHAP. X.
The Indigenous Berber Population 223
Fezzán, a Berber Country. — The Berbers. — Their Real Name
Mázígh; the Name Tawárek of Arab Origin. — The Azkár. — History of
the Azkár. — The Hadánarang. — Degraded Tribes. — The Imghád. — The
Kél. — View of the Valley of Ghát.
CHAP. XI.
Crossing a large Mountain-ridge, and entering on the open
gravelly Desert 241
The town of Bárakat. — The Date-groves of Bárakat and their
Inhabitants. — Alpine Lake. — The Tawáti. — High Mountain-pass. — Deep
Ravine of Égeri. — Threatened Attack. — Region of Granite Commences. —
Desert Plain of Mariaw. — Afalésselez. — Approach to Tropical Climes. —
Wild Oxen (“bagr el wahsh”) in the Desert. — Nghákeli, New Vegetation
(_Balanites Ægyptiaca_).
CHAP. XII.
Dangerous Approach to Ásben 267
Picturesque Peak. — Valley of Arókam. — Caravan of Merábetín. —
Aséttere. — The Guineaworm. — The Caravan (at Aísala). — Berber
Inscription. — Ikadémmelrang. — Peculiar Mounts. — Marárraba, the
Half-way. — Bóro’s Threats. — First View of Ásben. — Asëu. — Approach
of the Enemy. — Valley Fénorang. — The Freebooters. — Timázkaren. —
Máket-n-Íkelán, the Slaves’ Dance. — Continued Alarms. — The Valley of
Jínninau. — Pleasant Valley of Gébi. — The _Capparis sodata_.
CHAP. XIII.
Inhabited but dangerous Frontier-region 297
Tághajít. — Character of the Borderers. — New Alarms. — Order of
Battle. — Mohammed Bóro. — A Tardy Acknowledgment. — Formidable
Threats. — The Compromise. — Mountains of Ásben. — Valley of Tídik. —
Sad Disappointment. — Definitive Attack. — The Pillage. — _Cucifera
Thebaïca_. — Selúfiet. — Tin-tagh-odé, the Settlement of the Merábetín.
— Short State of Supplies. — A Desert Torrent. — Arrival of the Escort.
— Valley of Fódet — Camel-Races. — Parting of Friends. — Valley of
Afís. — New Troubles. — Arrival at Tintéllust. — The English Hill.
CHAP. XIV.
Ethnographical Relations of Aïr 335
The name Aïr or Ahír. — Country of the Goberáwa. — The Kél-owí. —
Recent Conquest. — Descent in the Female Line. — Mixed Population. —
Language. — Sections of the Kél-owí. — The Irólangh. — Tribe of the
Sheikh Ánnur. — The Ikázkezan. — The Kél-n-Néggaru. — The Éfadaye. —
League of the Kél-owí with the Kél-gerés and Itísan. — The Kél-fadaye.
— The word “Mehárebí.” — The Kél-ferwán. — The Itísan and Kél-gerés. —
Population of Ásben. — The Salt-trade.[5]
CHAP. XV.
Residence in Tintéllust 360
The Sheikh Ánnur’s Character. — Rainy Season. — Nocturnal Attack. —
Want of Proper Food. — Preparations for Advance.
CHAP. XVI.
Journey to Ágades 370
Attempt at Bullock-riding. — Tawárek Blacksmiths. — The Double Horn of
Mount Cheréka. — Ásodi and its Ruins. — Mounts Eghellál, Bághzen, and
Ágata. — Mounts Belásega and Abíla. — The Valley Tíggeda. — The
Picturesque Valley of Ásada. — The Valley of Tághist with the Ancient
Place of Prayer. — Picturesque Valley of Aúderas with the Forest of
Dúm-Palms. — Barbarity. — Valley Búdde. — The Natron. — The Feathered
Bur. — Imghád of the Valleys. — Fertile Valley Bóghel. — The Large
Báure-tree. — Arrival near Ágades. — The Troopers. — Entrance into the
Town.
CHAP. XVII.
Ágades 397
The Retail Traders from Tawát. — The Learned ʿAbdallah. — Aspect of the
Town. — The Sultan’s Quarter. — Interview with the Chief. — Mohammed
Bóro’s House and Family. — Markets of Ágades. — Manufactures. — Native
Cavalry. — View of the Town. — The Kádhi. — Interior of Ágades. —
Various Visitors. — The “Fúra,” a Favourite Drink. — Manners and
Customs. — A Misadventure. — Language of Ágades the same as that of
Timbúktu. — My Friend Hamma. — The Fatal Dungeon. — Ceremony of
Investiture. — The Procession. — Visitors. — Rumours of War. — On
Rock-Inscriptions. — Visitors again. — Episode. — Parting with Bóro. —
Tailelt (Guinea-fowl) Tobes. — Áshu’s Garden. — Letters from the
Sultan. — Military Expedition. — Results of the Expedition. — Interior
of a House. — The Emgedesi Lady. — Ruinous Quarter. — Wanton Manners. —
The Mosque and Tower. — Interior of the Mosque. — Hostile Disposition
of the Kádhi. — Other Mosques in Ágades. — Enlightened Views. —
Preparations for Departure.
CHAP. XVIII.
History of Ágades 458
Ágades not Identical with Aúdaghost. — Meaning of the Name. — The
Songhay Conqueror Háj Mohammed Askiá (Leo’s Ischia). — The Associated
Tribes. — Leo’s Account of Ágades. — The Ighedálen. — Tegídda or
Tekádda. — Gógó and the Ancient Gold-Trade. — Position of the Ruler of
Ágades. — The Sultan and his Minister. — Meaning of the word “Turáwa.”
— The Town, its Population. — Period of Decline. — Ground-Plan and
Quarters of the Town. — Decline of Commerce. — Market Prices.
CHAP. XIX.
Departure from Ágades. — Stay in Tin-téggana 481
Abortive Commencement of Journey. — The Valley Tíggeda full of Life. —
Tintéllust Deserted. — Arrival in Tin-téggana. — Stay in Tin-téggana. —
Mohammed el Gatróni. — Turbulent State of the Country. — Conversation
on Religion. — Poor Diet. — Prolonged Delay. — Preparations for
Starting.
CHAP. XX.
Final Departure for Sudán 500
Taking Leave of Tin-téggana. — Trachytic Peak of Teléshera. — Valley of
Tánegat. — The Salt-caravan. — Wild Manners of the Tawárek. — Mount
Mári. — Richer Vegetation. — Well Álbes. — Tebu Merchants. — Chémia. —
Mount Bághzen. — Camels lost. — Rich Valley Unán. — Stone Dwellings of
Kél-gerés. — Christmas Day. — Taking Leave of Hamma.
CHAP. XXI.
The Border-region of the Desert. — The Tagáma 519
Travelling in earnest. — Home of the Giraffe and _Antilope leucoryx_. —
The Mágariá. — The _Cornus nabeca_ and the Feathery Bristle. — Princely
Present. — Animals (_Orycteropus Æthiopicus_). — The Tagáma; their
Peculiar character. — The Tarki Beauty. — New Plants. — Steep Descent.
— Ponds of Stagnant Water. — Corn-fields of Damerghú. — The Warlike
Chief Dan Íbra. — Ungwa Sámmit. — Negro Architecture. — Name of the Hut
in Various Languages. — Animal and Vegetable Kingdoms. — Horses
grazing. — Arrival in Tágelel. — The Ikázkezan Freebooter. —
Niggardliness of the Chief. — Towns and Villages of Damerghú. — The
Haunts of the Freebooters. — Market of Tágelel. — The “Devil’s Dance.”
* * * * *
APPENDIX.
I.
Route from Ágades to Sókoto 555
II.
Route from Ágades to Marádi, according to the Information of
the Kél-gerés Gojéri and his Companion Gháser 556
III.
Itinerary from Ágades to Damerghú, according to various
Informants 558
IV.
Route from Ágades to Bílma, according to the Émgedesi Éderi 558
V.
Route from Ágades to Tawát, according to ʿAbd-Alla 560
VI.
Route from Ágades to the Hillet e’ Sheikh Sídi el Mukhtár
in Azawád, according to the Kél-ferwán Baina 568
VII.
Fragments of Meteorological Register 571
[Footnote 5: “The people of Ágades at that time (the last quarter of the
last century)—though Ágades then belonged to the Cashna empire—were
annually permitted to load their immense caravans with the salt of
Bornou, from the salt lakes of Demboo” (the Tebu country?), “the
merchants of Ágades giving in return for the article a trifling price
in brass and copper.”—_Lucas, Proceedings of the African Association_,
vol. i. p. 159.]
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
IN
THE FIRST VOLUME.
* * * * *
MAPS.
Page
I. General Map of Africa _to face Preface_
II. Route through the Mountainous Region of
Tripoli „ 17
III. Route from Tripoli to Múrzuk „ 85
IV. Route from Múrzuk to Wádí Falésselez „ 171
V. Route from Falésselez to Tídik „ 241
VI. Route from Tídik to Tágelel „ 297
PLATES.
1. Aúderas _Frontispiece_
2. Wádí Welád ʿAlí _to face_ 29
3. Kasr Ghurián and W. Rummána „ 49
4. Mizda „ 100
5. El Hasi „ 141
6. Éderi „ 146
7. Múrzuk „ 168
8. Telísaghé „ 196
9. Ghát „ 238
10. Égeri „ 252
11. Tintéllust „ 334
12. Ágades „ 408
WOODCUTS.
Picturesque Fountain 27
General View of Enshéd e’ Sufét 34
The Monument 35
Aboriginal Structures 58
Kasr Dóga 70
Another pair of Pillars, with Slab and Sculpture of a Dog 74
Curious Sculpture 79
General View of Mizda 101
Kasr Khafaije ʿAámer 106
Ruins of Christian Church 108
Two Capitals 109
Ground-plan 111
Roman Sepulchre in Wádí Talha 113
Roman Sepulchre in Wádí Tagíje 117
Roman Sepulchre at Taboníye 124
Gateway of Roman Station at Gharíya 126
Ground-plan of Station 129
Encampment at Ugréfe 154
Roman Sepulchre near Jerma (Garama) 157
Ground-plan of Múrzuk 169
Tiggerurtín 173
Encampment at Tesémmak 189
Hatíta on his Camel 195
First Sculpture of Telisaghé (two deities) 197
Herd of Bulls 200
Bull jumping into a Ring 201
Mount Ídinen 213
Ground-plan of Quarters at Ghát 222
The Mountain Pass 251
Pond in Valley Égeri 253
Mount Tiska 258
Picturesque Peak 267
Mountain-ridge near Arókam 269
Indented Ridge 270
Stratified Mount 276
Mountain-group 292
View of Mountain-chains 294
Mountains of Tídik 311
Mount Kadamméllet 312
Mountains of Selúfiet 320
Valley of Fódet 329
Mount Cheréka and Eghellál 374
Mount Cheréka, from another side 375
Mountain-chain 377
Deep Chasm of Mount Eghellál 378
Mount Ágata 379
Mount Belásega 380
Valley Tíggeda 382
Distinguished Mount 388
Audience-hall of Chief of Ágades 400
Mohammed Bóro’s House 403
A Leather Box 406
Two Native Spoons 414
Ground-plan of a House 442
Another Ground-plan 446
View of the High Watch-tower 450
Ground-plan of Ágades 475
Encampment in Tin-téggana 488
Mount Mári, in profile 506
Mount Mári, in front 507
Mount Bághzen, from the east side 512
TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES
IN
AFRICA.
* * * * *
CHAPTER I.
FROM TUNIS TO TRIPOLI.
Mr. Richardson was waiting in Paris for despatches, when Mr. Overweg and
I reached Tunis, by way of Philippeville and Bona, on the 15th of
December, 1849; and having, through the kind interference of Mr. Ferrier
the British vice-consul, been allowed to enter the town after six days’
quarantine, we began immediately to provide ourselves with articles of
dress, while in the meantime we took most interesting daily rides to the
site of ancient Carthage.
Having procured many useful articles for our journey, and having found a
servant, the son of a freed slave from Gober, we left Tunis on the 30th
of December[6], and passed the first night in Hammám el Enf. Early next
morning we followed the charming route by Krumbália, which presents a no
less vivid specimen of the beauty and natural fertility of the Tunisian
country than of the desolate state to which it is at present reduced. We
then passed the fine gardens of Turki, a narrow spot of cultivation in a
wide desolate plain of the finest soil; and leaving el Khwín to our
right, we reached el Arbʿain.
Both these places enjoy a peculiar celebrity with the natives. El Khwín
is said to have been once a populous place; but nearly all its
inhabitants were destroyed by a spring of bituminous water, which
according to tradition, afterwards disappeared. El Arbʿain, the locality
of the “forty” martyrs, is a holy place; and ʿAli, our muleteer, in his
pious zeal, took up a handful of the sacred earth and sprinkled it over
us. It is a most picturesque spot. Keeping then along the wild plain
covered with a thick underwood of myrtle, we beheld in the distance the
highly picturesque and beautiful Mount Zaghwán, the Holy Mountain of the
ancient inhabitants, which rose in a majestic form; and we at length
reached Bir el buwíta, “the well of the little closet,” at one o’clock
in the afternoon. The “little closet,” however, had given place to a
most decent-looking whitewashed khán, where we took up our quarters in a
clean room. But our buoyant spirits did not allow us long repose; and a
quarter before eleven at night we were again on our mules.
I shall never forget this, the last night of the year 1849, which opened
to us a new era with many ordeals, and by our endurance of which we were
to render ourselves worthy of success. There were, besides ourselves,
our servants, and our two muleteers, four horsemen of the Bey, and three
natives from Jirbi. When midnight came my fellow traveller and I saluted
the new year with enthusiasm, and with a cordial shake of the hand
wished each other joy. Our Mohammedan companions were greatly pleased
when they were informed of the reason of our congratulating each other,
and wished us all possible success for the new year. We had also reason
to be pleased with them; for by their not inharmonious songs they
relieved the fatigue of a long, sleepless, and excessively cold night.
Having made a short halt under the olive-trees at the side of the
dilapidated town of Herkla, and taken a morsel of bread, we moved on
with our poor animals without interruption till half an hour after noon,
when we reached the funduk (or caravanserai) Sidi Bú Jʿafer, near Súsa,
where we took up our quarters, in order to be able to start again at
night, the gates of the town being kept shut till morning.[7]
Starting before three o’clock in the morning, we were exactly twelve
hours in reaching El Jem, with the famous Castle of the Prophetess,
still one of the most splendid monuments of Roman greatness overhanging
the most shabby hovels of Mohammedan indifference. On the way we had a
fine view, towards the west, of the picturesque Jebel Trutsa, along the
foot of which I had passed on my former wanderings, and of the wide,
out-stretching Jebel Useleet.
Another ride of twelve hours brought us, on the 3rd of January 1850, to
Sfákes, where we were obliged to take up our quarters in the town, as
our land-journey was here at an end, and we were to procure a vessel to
carry us either direct to Tripoli, or to some other point on the
opposite side of the Lesser Syrtis. The journey by land is not only
expensive, particularly for people who are encumbered with a good deal
of luggage, as we then were, and very long and tedious, but is also very
unsafe, as I found from experience on my former journey. The island of
Jirbi, which forms the natural station of the maritime intercourse
between the regency of Tunis and that of Tripoli, had been put under the
strictest rules of quarantine, rather from political considerations than
from those of health, all intercourse with the mainland having been cut
off. It was therefore with great difficulty that we succeeded in hiring
a “gáreb” to carry us to Zwára, in which we embarked in the forenoon of
Saturday the 5th of January.
During our two days’ stay in Sfákes we made the acquaintance of a Jew
calling himself Baránes, but who is in truth the Jew servant named Jacob
who accompanied Denham and Clapperton, and is several times mentioned in
the narrative of those enterprising travellers as self-conceited and
stubborn; yet he seems to be rather a clever fellow, and in some way or
other contrives to be on the best terms with the governor. He
communicated to us many anecdotes of the former expedition, and, among
other things, a very mysterious history of a Danish traveller in
disguise whom they met in Borno coming all the way from Dar-Fúr through
Wadaï. There is not the least mention of such a meeting in the journal
of the expedition, nor has such an achievement of a European traveller
ever been heard of; and I can scarcely believe the truth of this story,
though the Jew was quite positive about it.
The vessel in which we embarked was as miserable as it could be, there
being only a small low cabin as high as a dog-kennel, and measuring, in
its greatest width, from six to seven feet, where I and my companion
were to pass the night. We thought that a run of forty-eight hours, at
the utmost, would carry us across the gulf; but the winds in the Lesser
Syrtis are extremely uncertain, and sometimes so violent that a little
vessel is obliged to run along the coast.
At first we went on tolerably well; but the wind soon became
unfavourable, and in the evening we were obliged to cast anchor opposite
Nekta, and, to our despair, were kept there till the afternoon of
Tuesday, when at length we were enabled to go forward in our frail
little shell, and reached Méheres—not Sidi Méheres, as it is generally
called in the maps—in the darkness of night. Having made up our minds
rather to risk anything than to be longer immured in such a desperate
dungeon as our gáreb, we went on shore early on Wednesday morning with
all our things, but were not able to conclude a bargain with some
Bedowín of the tribe of the Léffet, who were watering their camels at
the well.
The majestic ruins of a large castle, fortified at each corner with a
round tower, give the place a picturesque appearance from the seaside.
This castle is well known to be a structure of the time of Ibrahim the
Aghlabite. In the midst of the ruins is a small mosque. But
notwithstanding the ruinous state of the place, and the desolate
condition of its plantations, there is still a little industry going on,
consoling to the beholder in the midst of the devastation to which the
fine province of Byzacium, once the garden of Carthage, is at present
reduced. Several people were busily employed in the little market-place
making mats; and in the houses looms, weaving baracans, were seen in
activity. But all around, the country presented a frightful scene of
desolation, there being no object to divert the eye but the two
apparently separate cones of Mount Wuedrán, far in the distance to the
west, said to be very rich in sheep. The officer who is stationed here,
and who showed us much kindness, furnishing us with some excellent red
radishes of extraordinary size, the only luxury which the village
affords, told us that not less than five hundred soldiers are quartered
upon this part of the coast. On my former journey I had ample
opportunity to observe how the Tunisian soldiery eat up the little which
has been left to the peaceable inhabitants of this most beautiful, but
most unfortunate country.
Having spent two days and two nights in this miserable place without
being able to obtain camels, we resolved to try the sea once more, in
the morning of the 11th, when the wind became northerly; but before the
low-water allowed us to go on board, the wind again changed, so that,
when we at length got under weigh in the afternoon, we could only move
on with short tacks. But our captain, protected as he was by the
Promontory of Méheres, dared to enter the open gulf. Quantities of large
fish in a dying state, as is often the case in this shallow water when
the wind has been high, were drifting round our boat.
The sun was setting when we at length doubled the promontory of Kasr
Unga, which we had already clearly distinguished on the 8th. However, we
had now overcome the worst; and when on the following morning I emerged
from our suffocating berth, I saw, to my great delight, that we were in
the midst of the gulf, having left the coast far behind us. I now heard
from our raïs that, instead of coasting as far as Tarf el má (“the
border of the water”), a famous locality in the innermost corner of the
Lesser Syrtis, which seems to preserve the memory of the former
connection between the gulf and the great Sebkha or Shot el Kebír (the
“palus Tritonis”), he had been so bold as to keep his little bark
straight upon the channel of Jirbi.
Our voyage now became interesting; for while we were advancing at a fair
rate, we had a charming view of the mountain-range, which in clear
contours extended along in the distance behind the date-groves on the
coast, seen only in faint outlines. The western part of the chain is
very low, and forms almost a group apart, but after having been
intersected by a gap or “gate,” the chain rises to greater elevation,
being divided, as it would seem from hence, into three separate ranges
enclosing fine valleys.