I passed over the old cathedral town of B----at fifteen hundred

metres. Many a pleasant afternoon had we spent there, walking through

its narrow, crooked streets, or lounging on the banks of the canal.

The cathedral too was a favorite haunt. I loved the fine spaciousness

of it. Looking down on it now, it seemed no larger than a toy

cathedral in a toy town, such as one sees in the shops of Paris. The

streets were empty, for it was not yet seven o'clock. Strips of shadow

crossed them where taller roofs cut off the sunshine. A toy train,

which I could have put nicely into my fountain-pen case, was pulling

into a station no larger than a wren's house. The Greeks called their

gods "derisive." No doubt they realized how small they looked to them,

and how insignificant this little world of affairs must have appeared

from high Olympus.

There was a road, a fine straight thoroughfare converging from the

left. It led almost due southwest. This was my route to C----. I

followed it, climbing steadily until I was at two thousand metres. I

had never flown so high before. "Over a mile!" I thought. It seemed a

tremendous altitude. I could see scores of villages and fine old

châteaux, and great stretches of forest, and miles upon miles of open

country in checkered patterns, just beginning to show the first fresh

green of the early spring crops. It looked like a world planned and

laid out by the best of Santa Clauses for the eternal delight of all

good children. And for untold generations only the birds have had the

privilege of seeing and enjoying it from the wing. Small wonder that

they sing. As for non-musical birds--well, they all sing after a

fashion, and there is no doubt that crows, at least, are extremely

jealous of their prerogative of flight.

My biplane was flying itself. I had nothing to do other than to give

occasional attention to the revolution counter, altimetre, and

speed-dial. The motor was running with perfect regularity. The

propeller was turning over at twelve hundred revolutions per minute

without the slightest fluctuation. Flying is the simplest thing in the

world, I thought. Why doesn't every one travel by route of the air?

If people knew the joy of it, the exhilaration of it, aviation schools

would be overwhelmed with applicants. Biplanes of the Farman and

Voisin type would make excellent family cars, quite safe for women to

drive. Mothers, busy with household affairs, could tell their children

to "run out and fly" a Caudron such as I was driving, and feel not the

slightest anxiety about them. I remembered an imaginative drawing I

had once seen of aerial activity in 1950. Even house pets were granted

the privilege of traveling by the air route. The artist was not far

wrong except in his date. He should have put it at 1925. On a fine

April morning there seemed no limit to the realization of such

interesting possibilities.

I had no more than started on my southwest course, as it seemed to me,

when I saw the spires and the red-roofed houses of C----, and, a

kilometre or so from the outskirts, the barracks and hangars of the

aviation school where I was to make the first landing. I reduced the

gas, and, with the motor purring gently, began a long, gradual

descent. It was interesting to watch the change in the appearance of

the country beneath me as I lost height. Checkerboard patterns of

brown and green grew larger and larger. Shining threads of silver

became rivers and canals, tiny green shrubs became trees, individual

aspects of houses emerged. Soon I could see people going about the

streets and laundry-maids hanging out the family washing in the back

gardens. I even came low enough to witness a minor household

tragedy--a mother vigorously spanking a small boy. Hearing the whir of

my motor, she stopped in the midst of the process, whereupon the

youngster very naturally took advantage of his opportunity to cut and

run for it. Drew doubted my veracity when I told him about this. He

called me an aerial eavesdropper and said that I ought to be ashamed

to go buzzing over towns at such low altitudes, frightening

housemaids, disorganizing domestic penal institutions, and generally

disturbing the privacy of respectable French citizens. But I was

unrepentant, for I knew that one small boy in France was thinking of

me with joy. To have escaped maternal justice with the assistance of

an aviator would be an event of glorious memory to him. How vastly

more worth while such a method of escape, and how jubilant Tom Sawyer

would have been over such an opportunity when his horrified warning,

"Look behind you, aunt!" had lost efficacy.

Drew had been waiting a quarter of an hour, and came rushing out to

meet me as I taxied across the field. We shook hands as though we had

not seen each other for years. We could not have been more surprised

and delighted if we had met on another planet after long and hopeless

wanderings in space.

While I superintended the replenishing of my fuel and oil tanks he

walked excitedly up and down in front of the hangars. He was an

odd-looking sight in his flying clothes, with a pair of Meyrowitz

goggles set back on his head, like another set of eyes, gazing at the

sky with an air of wide astonishment. He paid no attention to my

critical comments, but started thinking aloud as soon as I rejoined

him.

"It was lonely! Yes, by Jove! that was it. A glorious thing, one's

isolation up there; but it was too profound to be pleasant. A relief

to get down again, to hear people talk, to feel the solid earth under

one's feet. How did it impress you?"

This was like Drew. I felt ashamed of the lightness of my own

thoughts, but I had to tell him of my speculations upon after-the-war

developments in aviation: nurses flying Voisins, with the cars filled

with babies; old men having after-dinner naps in twenty-three-metre

Nieuports, fitted, for safety, with Sperry gyroscopes; family parties

taking comfortable outings in gigantic biplanes of the R-6 type;

mothers, as of old, gazing apprehensively at speed-dials, cautioning

fathers about "driving too fast," and all of the rest.

Drew looked at me reprovingly, to be sure, but he felt the need, just

as I did, of an outlet to his feelings, and so he turned to this kind

of comic relief with the most delightful reluctance. He quickly lost

his reserve, and in the imaginative spree which followed we went far

beyond the last outposts of absurdity. We laughed over our own wit

until our faces were tired. However, I will not be explicit about our

folly. It might not be so amusing from a critical point of view.

After our papers have been viséed at the office of the commandant, we

hurried back to our machines, eager to be away again. We were to make

our second landing at R----. It was about seventy kilometres distant

and almost due north. The mere name of the town was an invitation.

Somewhere, in one of the novels of William J. Locke, may be found this

bit of dialogue:--

"But, master," said I, "there is, after all, color in words. Don't you

remember how delighted you were with the name of a little town we

passed through on the way to Orleans? R----? You were haunted by it

and said it was like the purple note of an organ."

We were haunted by it, too, for we were going to that very town. We

would see it long before our arrival--a cluster of quaint old houses

lying in the midst of pleasant fields, with roads curving toward it

from the north and south, as though they were glad to pass through so

delightful a place. Drew was for taking a leisurely route to the

eastward, so that we might look at some villages which lay some

distance off our course. I wanted to fly by compass in a direct line,

without following my map very closely. We had planned to fly together,

and were the more eager to do this because of an argument we had had

about the relative speed of our machines. He was certain that his was

the faster. I knew that, with mine, I could fly circles around him. As

we were not able to agree on the course, we decided to postpone the

race until we started on the homeward journey. Therefore, after we had

passed over the town, he waved his hand, bent off to the northeast,

and was soon out of sight.

I kept straight on, climbing steadily, until I was again at five

thousand feet. As before, my motor was running perfectly and I had

plenty of leisure to enjoy the always new sensation of flight and to

watch the wide expanse of magnificent country as it moved slowly past.

I let my mind lie fallow, and every now and then I would find it

hauling out fragments of old memories which I had forgotten that I

possessed.

I recalled, for the first time in many years, my earliest

interpretations of the meanings of all the phenomena of the heavens.

Two old janitor saints had charge of the floor of the skies. One of

them was a jolly old man who liked boys, and always kept the sky swept

clean and blue. The other took a sour delight in shirking his duties,

so that it might rain and spoil all our fun. Perhaps it was Drew's

sense of loneliness and helplessness so far from earth, which made me

think of winds and clouds in friendly human terms. However that may

be, these reveries, hardly worthy of a military airman, were abruptly

broken into.

All at once, I realized that, while my biplane was headed due north, I

was drifting north and west. This seemed strange. I puzzled over it

for some time, and then, brilliantly, in the manner of the novice,

deduced the reason: wind. I was being blown off my course, all the

while comfortably certain that I was flying in a direct line toward

R----. Our _moniteurs_ had often cautioned us against being

comfortably certain about anything while in the air. It was our duty

to be uncomfortably alert. Wind! I wonder how many times we had been

told to keep it in mind at all times, whether on the ground or in the

air? And here was I forgetting the existence of wind on the very

first occasion. The speed of my machine and the current of air from

the propeller had deceived me into thinking that I was driving dead

into whatever breeze there was at that altitude. I discovered that it

was blowing out of the east, therefore I headed a quarter into it, to

overcome the drift, and looked for landmarks.

I had not long to search. Wisps of mist obstructed the view, and

within ten minutes a bank of solid cloud cut it off completely. I had

only a vague notion of my location with reference to my course, but I

could not persuade myself to come down just then. To be flying in the

full splendor of bright April sunshine, knowing that all the earth was

in shadow, gave me a feeling of exhilaration. For there is no

sensation like that of flight, no isolation so complete as that of the

airman who has above him only the blue sky, and below, a level floor

of pure white cloud, stretching in an unbroken expanse toward every

horizon. And so I kept my machine headed northeast, that I might

regain the ground lost before I discovered the drift northwest. I had

made a rough calculation of the time required to cover the seventy

kilometres to R---- at the speed at which I was traveling. The rest I

left to Chance, the godfather of all adventurers.

He took the initiative, as he so frequently does with aviators who, in

moments of calm weather, are inclined to forget that they are still

children of earth. The floor of dazzling white cloud was broken and

tumbled into heaped-up masses which came drifting by at various

altitudes. They were scattered at first and offered splendid

opportunities for aerial steeplechasing. Then, almost before I was

aware of it, they surrounded me on all sides. For a few minutes I

avoided them by flying in curves and circles in rapidly vanishing

pools of blue sky. I feared to take my first plunge into a cloud, for

I knew, by report, what an alarming experience it is to the new pilot.

The wind was no longer blowing steadily out of the east. It came in

gusts from all points of the compass. I made a hasty revision of my

opinion as to the calm and tranquil joys of aviation, thinking what

fools men are who willingly leave the good green earth and trust

themselves to all the winds of heaven in a frail box of cloth-covered

sticks.

The last clear space grew smaller and smaller. I searched for an

outlet, but the clouds closed in and in a moment I was hopelessly lost

in a blanket of cold drenching mist.

I could hardly see the outlines of my machine and had no idea of my

position with reference to the earth. In the excitement of this new

adventure I forgot the speed-dial, and it was not until I heard the

air screaming through the wires that I remembered it. The indicator

had leaped up fifty kilometres an hour above safety speed, and I

realized that I must be traveling earthward at a terrific pace. The

manner of the descent became clear at the same moment. As I rolled out

of the cloud-bank, I saw the earth jauntily tilted up on one rim,

looking like a gigantic enlargement of a page out of Peter Newell's

"Slant Book." I expected to see dogs and dishpans, baby carriages and

ash-barrels roll out of every house in France, and go clattering off

into space.

IV

AT G. D. E.

Somewhere to the north of Paris, in the _zone des armées_, there is a

village, known to all aviators in the French service as G. D. E. It is

the village through which pilots who have completed their training at

the aviation schools pass on their way to the front; and it is here

that I again take up this journal of aerial adventure.

We are in lodgings, Drew and I, at the Hôtel de la Bonne Rencontre,

which belies its name in the most villainous fashion. An inn at

Rochester in the days of Henry the Fourth must have been a fair match

for it, and yet there is something to commend it other than its

convenience to the flying field. Since the early days of the

Escadrille Lafayette, many Americans have lodged here while awaiting

their orders for active service. As I write, J. B. is asleep in a bed

which has done service for a long line of them. It is for this reason

that he chose it, in preference to one in a much better state of

repair which he might have had. And he has made plans for its purchase

after the war. Madame Rodel is to keep careful record of all its

American occupants, just as she has done in the past. She is pledged

not to repair it beyond the bare necessity which its uses as a bed may

require, an injunction which it was hardly necessary to lay upon her,

judging by the other furniture in our apartment. Drew is not

sentimental, but he sometimes carries sentiment to extremities which

appear to me absurd.

When I attempt to define, even to myself, the charm of our adventures

thus far, I find it impossible. How, then, make it real to others? To

tell of aerial adventure one needs a new language, or, at least, a

parcel of new adjectives, sparkling with bright and vivid meaning, as

crisp and fresh as just-minted bank-notes. They should have no taint

of flatness or insipidity. They should show not the faintest trace of

wear. With them, one might hope, now and then, to startle the

imagination, to set it running in channels which are strange and

delightful to it. For there is something new under the sun: aerial

adventure; and the most lively and unjaded fancy may, at first, need

direction toward the realization of this fact. Soon it will have a

literature of its own, of prose and poetry, of fiction, biography,

memoirs, of history which will read like the romance it really is. The

essayists will turn to it with joy. And the poets will discover new

aspects of beauty which have been hidden from them through the ages;

and as men's experience "in the wide fields of air" increases, epic

material which will tax their most splendid powers.

This brings me sadly back to my own purpose, which is, despite many

wistful longings of a more ambitious nature, to write a plain tale of

the adventures of two members--prospective up to this point--of the

Escadrille Lafayette. To go back to some of those earlier ones, when

we were making our first cross-country flights, I remember them now

with a delight which, at the time, was not unmixed with other

emotions. Indeed, an aviator, and a fledgling aviator in particular,

often runs the whole gamut of human feeling during a single flight. I

did in the course of half an hour, reaching the high C of acute panic

as I came tumbling out of the first cloud of my aerial experience.

Fortunately, in the air the sense of equilibrium usually compels one

to do the right thing, and so, after some desperate handling of my

"broom-stick," as the control is called which governs ailerons and

elevating planes, I soon had the horizons nicely adjusted again. What

a relief it was! I shut down my motor and commenced a more gradual

descent, for I was lost, of course, and it seemed wiser to land and

make inquiries than to go cruising over half of France looking for one

among hundreds of picturesque old towns. There were at least a dozen

within view. Some of them were at least a three hours' walk distant

from each other. But in the air! I was free to go whither I would, and

swiftly.

After leisurely deliberation I selected one surrounded by wide fields

which appeared to be as level as a floor. But as I descended the

landscape widened, billowing into hills and folding into valleys. By

sheer good luck, nothing more, I made a landing without accident. My

Caudron barely missed colliding with a hedge of fruit trees, rolled

down a long incline, and stopped not ten feet short of a small

stream. The experience taught me the folly of choosing landing-ground

from high altitudes. I needn't have landed, of course, but I was then

so much an amateur that the buffeting of cross-currents of air near

the ground awed me into it, come what might. The village was out of

sight over the crest of the hill. However, thinking that some one must

have seen me, I decided to await developments where I was.

Very soon I heard a shrill, jubilant shout. A boy of eight or ten

years was running along the ridge as fast as he could go. Outlined

against the sky, he reminded me of silhouettes I had seen in Paris

shops, of children dancing, the very embodiment of joy in movement. He

turned and waved to some one behind, whom I could not see, then came

on again, stopping a short distance away, and looking at me with an

air of awe, which, having been a small boy myself, I was able to

understand and appreciate. I said, "Bonjour, mon petit," as cordially

as I could, but he just stood there and gazed without saying a word.

Then the others began to appear: scores of children, and old men as

well, and women of all ages, some with babies in their arms, and

young girls. The whole village came, I am sure. I was mightily

impressed by the haleness of the old men and women, which one rarely

sees in America. Some of them were evidently well over seventy, and

yet, with one or two exceptions, they had sound limbs, clear eyes, and

healthy complexions. As for the young girls, many of them were

exceptionally pretty; and the children were sturdy youngsters, not the

wan, thin-legged little creatures one sees in Paris. In fact, all of

these people appeared to belong to a different race from that of the

Parisians, to come from finer, more vigorous stock.

They were very curious, but equally courteous, and stood in a large

circle around my machine, waiting for me to make my wishes known. For

several minutes I pretended to be busy attending to dials and valves

inside the car. While trying to screw my courage up to the point of

making a verbless explanation of my difficulty, some one pushed

through the crowd, and to my great relief began speaking to me. It was

Monsieur the Mayor. As best I could, I explained that I had lost my

way and had found it necessary to come down for the purpose of making

inquiries. I knew that it was awful French, but hoped that it would be

intelligible, in part at least. However, the Mayor understood not a

word, and I knew by the curious expression in his eyes that he must be

wondering from what weird province I hailed. After a moment's thought

he said, "Vous êtes Anglais, monsieur?" with a smile of very real

pleasure. I said, "Non, monsieur, Américain."

That magic word! What potency it has in France, the more so at that

time, perhaps, for America had placed herself definitely upon the side

of the Allies only a short time before. I enjoyed that moment. I might

have had the village for the asking. I willingly accepted the rôle of

ambassador of the American people. Had it not been for the language

barrier, I think I would have made a speech, for I felt the generous

spirit of Uncle Sam prompting me to give those fathers and mothers,

whose husbands and sons were at the front, the promise of our

unqualified support. I wanted to tell them that we were with them now,

not only in sympathy, but with all our resources in men and guns and

ships and aircraft. I wanted to convince them of our new understanding

of the significance of the war. Alas! this was impossible. Instead I

gave each one of an army of small boys the privilege of sitting in the

pilot's seat, and showed them how to manage the controls.

The astonishing thing to me was, that while this village was not

twenty kilometres off the much-frequented air route between C---- and

R----, mine was the first aeroplane which most of them had seen.

During long months at various aviation schools pilots grow accustomed

to thinking that aircraft are as familiar a sight to others as to

them. But here was a village, not far distant from several aviation

schools, where an aviator was looked upon with wonder. To have an

American aviator drop down upon them was an event even in the history

of that ancient village. To have been that aviator,--well, it was an

unforgettable experience, coming as it did so opportunely with

America's entry into the war. I shall always have it in the background

of memory, and one day it will be among the pleasantest of many

pleasant tales which I shall have in store for my grandchildren.

However, it is not their potentialities as memories which endear these

adventures now, but rather it is because they are in such contrast to

any that we had known before. We are always comparing this new life

with the old, so different in every respect as to seem a separate

existence, almost a previous incarnation.

Having been set right about my course, I pushed my biplane to more

level ground, with the willing help of all the boys, started my motor,

and was away again. Their shrill cheers reached me even above the roar

of the motor. As a lad in a small, Middle-Western town, I have known

the rapture of holding to a balloon guy-rope at a county fair, until

"the world's most famous aeronaut" shouted, "Let 'er go, boys!" and

swung off into space. I kept his memory green until I had passed the

first age of hero worship. I know that every youngster in a small

village in central France will so keep mine. Such fame is the only

kind worth having.

A flight of fifteen minutes brought me within sight of the large white

circle which marks the landing-field at R----. J. B. had not yet

arrived. This was a great disappointment, for we had planned a race

home. I was anxious about him, too, knowing that the godfather of all

adventurers can be very stern at times, particularly with his aerial

godchildren. I waited for an hour and then decided to go on alone. The

weather having cleared, the opportunity was too favorable to be lost.

The cloud formations were the most remarkable that I had ever seen. I

flew around and over and under them, watching at close hand the play

of light and shade over their great, billowing folds. Sometimes I

skirted them so closely that the current of air from my propeller

raveled out fragments of shining vapor, which streamed into the clear

spaces like wisps of filmy silk. I knew that I ought to be savoring

this experience, but for some reason I couldn't. One usually pays for

a fine mood by a sudden and unaccountable change of feeling which

shades off into a kind of dull, colorless depression.

I passed a twin-motor Caudron going in the opposite direction. It was

fantastically painted, the wings a bright yellow and the circular

hoods, over the two motors, a fiery red. As it approached, it looked

like some prehistoric bird with great ravenous eyes. The thing

startled me, not so much because of its weird appearance as by the

mere fact of its being there. Strangely enough, for a moment it seemed

impossible that I should meet another _avion_. Despite a long

apprenticeship in aviation, in these days when one's mind has only

begun to grasp the fact that the mastery of the air has been

accomplished, the sudden presentation of a bit of evidence sometimes

shocks it into a moment of amazement bordering upon incredulity.

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