for years. Gather clean and dry fruit before it is quite ripe, that the
heat may not crack the plums. Remove the stalks and pack closely in
bottles not over 11 inches high, without bruising, up to shoulder of
bottle. Provide a boiler a foot deep; place hay or canvas at the bottom,
then put the bottles in the boiler with hay or canvas around them to
prevent fracture. Now fill the boiler up to the necks of the bottles,
and place it on a slow fire. Heat very gradually until the water is at
boiling point. Then take each bottle out with a cloth, fill with boiling
water kept close at hand, and cover _while boiling_ with air-tight
stoppers. Another method is to fill the bottles nearly full with cold
water or thin syrup, and boil for fifteen minutes. Messrs De Luca have
received silver and bronze medals from the R.H.S. for self-closing
bottles now sold by Messrs Abbott of Southall, near London. Their method
is as follows: "Pour in water or cold thin syrup (one tablespoonful of
crystalised cane-sugar to the pint) sufficient to cover the fruit.
Adjust the indiarubber in the groove made for it on neck of the bottle,
place the disc on it, and _lightly_ screw down the outer ring. (Steam
must be allowed to escape.) Boil as before for twenty minutes; take out
each bottle, and at once screw the outer ring as tightly as possible.
Leave bottles until cold. Next day examine by unscrewing the outer ring,
and try whether the disc is firmly fastened down. If so, replace the
ring, screw down tightly and store away in a cool place, standing them
upright. The bottles by having new discs and indiarubber rings may be
frequently used."
The Rev. W. Wilks, secretary of the R.H.S., recommends pears, especially
Pitmaston D., as suitable for bottling. "Bottled it is delicious." He
thinks fifteen minutes from the time the water boils sufficient for
plums. Messrs De Luca mention an hour as the time for pears.
Messrs Lee & Co. of 19 Knightrider St., Maidstone, have received medals
from the R.H.S. and others for their fruit bottling apparatus and
bottled fruit.
They supply a patent economic fruit bottling apparatus at 21s. A
thermometer at the side records the temperature of the bottles and of
their contents. The following is the method given in the _Journal of the
R.H.S._
"The fruit must, of course, be fresh and good and the bottles clean. The
fruit is first packed into the bottles, which are then filled up to the
neck with cold water, or if preferred, with thin syrup made by
dissolving ½ lb. of loaf-sugar in hot water and leaving it to cool.
The bottles are then put into the cooking pot where they must remain for
certainly not less than two hours at a temperature of between a minimum
of 145 degrees and a maximum of 160 degrees. This low sterilising
temperature being maintained for two, three, or four hours will destroy
all germs without cooking the fruit, and is the great secret of
successful bottling. No actual harm is done by the heat rising above 160
degrees, but if it does the fruit will probably burst, lose its shape,
and not look so nice. Vegetables may be preserved in exactly the same
way, but they must be done twice over with an interval of twenty-four
hours to allow of their becoming quite cold. Jams and fruit jellies can
be preserved fresh and good for years in the same way."
Success in bottling and preserving fruit depends chiefly on two points:
(1) The destruction of every germ of mildew, etc., by keeping the
bottles at a certain temperature for a certain time; (2) the absolute
prevention of any possible re-entry of air into the bottles afterwards.
The bottles must be hermetically sealed while in the steam or standing
in almost boiling water (see _Journal R.H.S._, vol. xxvi. part iii. p.
365).
BOTTLING OR CANNING IN SYRUP.--This is done by boiling together
at the rate of 3 lbs. of cane-sugar to 1 quart of water and the white of
1 egg; pour the fruit whole into the syrup while boiling, and continue
to boil together for only a few minutes, then pour into bottles or cans,
and stopper or seal air-tight immediately whilst boiling. Pears may be
preserved in the same way. Cheal, _Journal of R.H.S._, vol. xxi. 1.
PLUM JAM makes a rich preserve. Take equal quantities of fruit
and cane-sugar; boil quickly half to three-quarters of an hour, then put
into hot jars and cover well at once. Exclude the air as much as
possible. The colour of the flesh is said to make a difference in the
sale. Red jam is usually preferred, but greengage is also popular. Coe's
Golden Drop or Autumn Compôte (September, hardy, fairly productive, but
the fruit often splits) are good for yellow ("Amber"--Dr Hogg) jam;
Belle de Septembre (September, "a good late cooking variety," good
bearer, but fruit prone to split) for crimson colour. Free-stones are
better than cling-stones. The following are free-stones: Bittern, Coe's
Late Red ("fruit small, good bearer, a very useful late cooking plum"),
Early Orleans, Early Transparent Gage, Old Greengage, Orleans, Oullin's
Golden Gage, Red Magnum Bonum, Comte d'Althann, Victoria. The following
are nearly so: Early Prolific, Czar, Cox's Emperor, Jefferson.
Belle de Septembre is a cling-stone. Damsons make good jam, the colour
being a dark rich red.
PLUM JELLY
Plums are rich in "vegetable jelly." 1. Boil alone for half-an-hour,
then strain the juice through a fine sieve or cloth; add 2 lbs. of
cane-sugar to each quart of juice, boil again for twenty minutes, pour
into jars and glasses, cover at once. A firm, clear and bright jelly
should result (Watson).
2. "During the preserving season I generally have a few pots of jelly
made from each pan of preserves without spoiling my jams. I make
currant, gooseberry, and plum jelly this way.
"For all common preserves I allow ¾ of a pound of loaf-sugar to each
pound of fruit. The sugar must be broken small. Put the fruit and sugar
into your pan, let the sugar melt, then boil quickly for twenty to
thirty minutes. Skim carefully, take the pan off the fire, take from it
three or four cupfuls of juice, or as much as you think can be spared
without making your jam dry. Strain the juice through a small gravy
sieve into small jars. This will be found to jelly well. In this way a
nice stock of jelly can be procured, and no fruit is wasted." (From
Weldon's "Menu Cookery Book," 1s., published by Weldon, 31 Southampton
Street, Strand.)
FOOTNOTES:
[9] The dates refer to the time when the fruits were "ready" (ripe, fit
for gathering) at the Chiswick Garden of the R.H.S.
[10] From Watson, vol. v. p. 369.
[11] For many useful details see Watson, vol. v.
CHERRIES
It is useless to plant cherries unless the fruit can be protected from
the birds. The cost of "keeping" a few trees would absorb all profit. In
planting for sale, select two or three varieties only; and these should
come in together, if possible, to lessen the cost of "keep." They should
be intermingled, for reasons already mentioned (see pears, p. 12).
Cherries like a deep, mellow, and rather sandy soil, but they also
thrive on a good loam lying on chalk. Stiff moist soils and dry gravelly
soils are not suitable. The trees require much moisture, especially
sorts with large leaves, such as the Bigarreau and Heart Cherries. Plant
varieties to suit the soil. Inquire carefully what sorts do best in your
neighbourhood. Cherries do well in open ground, not shaded nor in a
valley. They prefer a south aspect, but Morellos thrive on a north wall.
Kentish and Late Duke might also be tried there. Plant as you would
pears or plums. Protect your trees from rabbits by wire, and from cattle
by "cradles," 6 feet high at least,[12] or iron guards. Cattle fed on
cake are useful in cherry orchards, and improve the produce.
CHERRIES FOR EATING, recommended by R.H.S. in 1892, are:--
_a._ DUKES.--(1) _May Duke_, dark red and early; (2) _Archduke_
(large blackish red), mid-season, both tender-skinned, and so beloved by
birds. Both are close growers.
_b._ YELLOW-FRUITED (_i.e._ White Heart or Bigarreau).--(1)
_Elton_, very early, good on heavy soil, tree spreading; (2) _Kent
Bigarreau_, early, large, hardy, makes a large tree, best for general
crop.
_c._ BLACK-FRUITED.--(1) _Black Eagle_, very large, travels
well, free grower, mid-season; (2) _Early Rivers_, first-rate, earliest
black, a good cropper and grower.
COOKING CHERRIES.--(1) _Kentish_, bright red, mid-season, a
compact grower, best for jam; (2) _Morello_, very late, only fit for
wall, fence, or bush.
Other good sorts are _Governor Wood_ (mottled red, early) and _Black
Tartarian_, a strong grower, fruit large, late. _Florence_ is very large
and late, succeeding the Bigarreau, but requires a warm soil and aspect.
Where there is no wall, Morellos and other sorts should be planted as
bushes in a garden 5 or 6 feet apart. They should be covered with nets
when the fruit is colouring. Morellos last a long while on a north wall,
protected by a net. These are often in great demand, and in a plantation
succeed as standards. But the cost of "keeping" for a long time would be
excessive.
PRUNING AND TRAINING
Allow the trees to grow a year before pruning them. Then cut back the
branches to about 1 foot in length to an outer eye; the Bigarreau to 15
inches. Encourage two shoots from each branch, one at the end, the other
3 inches from the stem, and on the outside. Thus the branches will not
grow into each other. Maintain the chief branches at nearly equal length
for some years. Standards do not require much pruning. Cut back in
summer (July) all shoots crowding the tree or threatening to cross
others. In winter look over the trees again. Keep the trees open to
sun and air. Cherries on wall should be on the fan system, and pinched
back in July. The branches should be 9 inches apart for Duke Cherries,
12 for Bigarreau. If trained horizontally or as espaliers, shorten the
shoots on the upper branches a week or two before those on the lower.
Keep the shoots near the wall. When sufficient main branches are formed
to cover the wall, do not cut back the leaders again. Be sparing with
the knife. After two or three years fruit spurs will form, but not much
surplus wood. Morellos require special treatment. The fruit is usually
found on the wood of the previous year. Train young shoots in to replace
the old, and cut out, when the fruit is off, all the old that can be
spared. In standards, pyramids and bushes, thin out the branches.
[Illustration: A CHERRY ORCHARD]
APHIDES are the chief enemy, especially on walls. Syringe with
tobacco water made by pouring 1 gallon of soft boiling water on 2 ozs.
of strong shag tobacco; add 2 ozs. of soft soap to the water when poured
on the tobacco. Strain off and use cold. This solution is also good
against the pear slug-worm, which attacks cherries as well as pears.
Follow this prescription by a good syringing of cold water the following
morning. The roots of cherries are near the surface so that the ground
above them must not be dug.
STANDARDS
in strong soil should be 30 feet apart, 24 feet in lighter ground. They
are best on grass which is used for pasture. The trees then should be 30
feet from each other. The Kentish Red are sometimes 15 or 18 feet only.
Between standards at 24 feet apart bush trees of various kinds may be
planted (apples, pears, plums), the two former on dwarfing stocks; there
should be two between each standard 8 feet apart.
Ordinary manure is not often given. It may cause rank growth. Dr
Griffiths recommends the following artificials: 3 parts weight of
kainit, 2 parts of superphosphate, 1 part of nitrate of soda. Three lbs.
of this mixture should be applied to each tree shortly before active
growth begins. If the land is deficient in lime or chalk some should be
given to each tree.
W. C. (in Watson): "Superphosphate of lime, 5 lbs., sulphate of potash,
2 lbs., sulphate of magnesia, ½ lb., chloride of soda, ½ lb. Apply
during mild weather in February at the rate of 4 ozs. to the square yard
of border, or the full quantity 8 lbs. to each rod of orchard ground."
Gather fruit dry before it is quite ripe. Cherries are usually sent to
market in baskets which contain 24 lbs. nett; very choice fruit in 12
lb. baskets.
The word cherry comes from the old English cheri, chiri, and that
probably from the French cerise, that from the Latin cerasus, and that
from the Greek kerasos. "Cheri or chiri was a corruption of cheris or
chiris, the final _s_ being mistaken for the plural inflection; the same
mistake occurs in several other words, notably in pea as shortened from
pease, Latin pisum" (Skeat).
FOOTNOTE:
[12] Cradles in Kent are often made of chestnut wood split, and last as
long as they are needed. For form see pears, p. 7.
THE MULBERRY
The mulberry is a very handsome tree well worthy of cultivation in a
large garden, if only it receives the care and culture which it
deserves. Its proper name derived from the Latin through the Anglo-Saxon
is Murberry. Mulberry is certainly more euphonious. It is said to be a
native of Persia, but it has been known in this country for three
centuries and a half at least. It is stated that there are trees still
living among us several centuries old. The black mulberry is the one
commonly grown in England; the white does better in a warmer clime, and
has been largely planted in France and other lands, where the leaves are
required for silkworms. The white, however, can be grown in this
country. The mulberry will thrive in any good soil, but the ground
should not be very wet. It should be placed in a sheltered southern
aspect, and is likely to do well in the south rather than the north of
England. It is propagated by layers, cuttings and seeds. Trees with good
straight stems should be had from the nurserymen, and a few shillings
spent in buying a straight, strong tree may save years. Plant in late
autumn without manure with the usual care (see planting pears); the
roots should not be exposed to frost or cold winds. Brick and
lime-rubbish below in a heavy wet soil should be given. In a lighter
soil put decayed manure round the tree after planting. In spring fork
the soil up lightly, as trees thrive better when the soil is stirred. If
you plant early in November under favourable circumstances leave four
branches only, and cut these hard back to an outer eye. If you plant
late, don't prune until the following winter. The first branches if cut
back to three or four inches will probably throw out strong shoots. In
August choose four of the best placed and strongest of these, cutting
out the rest that those left may grow and the wood be ripened. The tree
bears on short-jointed young wood, and on spurs, not on gross shoots.
Keep the tree open, especially the middle, removing weak, watery spray,
and train the shoots upwards. It will be a pleasure to go under the tree
in time and enjoy its shade. The sun and air must have free access if
the fruit is to ripen. Sometimes the berries fall prematurely. Drought
or want of food may be the cause. Liquid manure in summer as the fruit
comes on, and the artificial manures recommended for all fruit trees
(see pears) will be helpful. In the winter-pruning, cut out all cross
boughs, beginning from below, so as not to tear the bark. Check only
branches that are rampant and running away from others. Keep the tree as
uniformly round as you can. When the tree has (in four or five years)
gained size and fruits well, grass may be grown around the tree, but it
should be kept closely mown, especially when the fruit is ripening. All
coarse grasses should be spudded out. If the fruit were thinned and the
tree well fed, no doubt the berries would be finer. In any case feed
well in July. The fruit is not very marketable, as it does not travel
well, nor last long. But in cider counties it is sometimes mixed with
apples, to make mulberry cider. The trees bear forcing in pots, and give
good fruit in July. They will bear a high temperature. The fruit mixed
with apples in a tart or pudding is described as "delicious." If it is
gathered perfectly dry, it can be used to make a jelly in a similar
manner to red currant jelly, and used for light puddings, etc. Mulberry
syrup is said to be good for sore throat; mulberry water to be
refreshing as a drink in cases of fever, mulberry vinegar to be
efficacious for medicinal purposes just as raspberry vinegar, which it
somewhat resembles. "Cassell's Dictionary of Cookery" explains these
details, and also how to make mulberry preserve.
APPENDIX
THE PROPAGATION OF THE PEAR
It is not proposed to enter into elaborate details with reference to the
propagation of the pear, for the general cultivator is far more
concerned with and interested in its successful treatment when
established than before, for he can now obtain prepared trees so readily
and cheaply from nurserymen, who propagate them by the thousand, that it
is not at all worth his while to attempt their propagation himself.
Pear trees are propagated either by budding or grafting. The first
mentioned process is performed during July and August, and grafting is
done in the month of March.
Budding consists in removing a bud from one tree and inserting it under
the bark of the stock or branch of another tree. This work is done in
the months of July and August, because the bark is during that time more
easily raised, and a union more easily effected between the cambium (an
inner growing layer) of both bud and stock. The buds inserted are taken
from the current year's shoots, choosing shoots that are firm and
short-jointed. After having removed a shoot, say nine or ten inches
long, and cut the leaves to half their lengths, next proceed to cut out
a bud. This is done by inserting a knife below the bud at a distance of
about half an inch, and then drawing it upwards behind the bud, emerging
again about half an inch above the bud. The cut must, of course, turn
inwards--that is to say, towards the centre of the shoot. When removed,
the bud therefore will be about an inch long, with the "eye" in the
centre, and with a certain amount of wood attached to it behind. This
should be removed, and the best way to do it is to insert the point of
one's knife just underneath, so as slightly to raise the wood. Then,
with the blade of the knife and one's thumb above, it can easily be
removed with a slight jerk. Take great care that the root of the bud is
not removed also. The stock to be budded should have a T-shaped incision
made in the bark. With the ivory handle, which a proper budding knife
will have, raise the bark on either side of the longitudinal slit,
commencing at the corners just below where it joins the transverse
incision. Take great care that the knife handle does not penetrate
beneath the inner bark, but press it against the latter, slipping it
along. When the bark is sufficiently raised, carefully insert the bud
beneath, taking hold of it by the remaining portion of the leaf stalk.
It must not be forced down, but introduced as gently as can be,
otherwise there will be danger of injuring the vital cambium layer,
where the union is effected. Afterwards tie the bud around with matting,
to keep it in position and to prevent the entrance of air. Tie both
above and below the "eye," leaving this of course free. An excellent
indication as to whether or not the bud has taken is afforded by the
petiole (leaf stalk). If this, a few weeks afterwards, falls completely
away, one may be fairly certain that the bud has taken; if, on the other
hand, it withers away, one may be almost equally sure that the operation
has not been successful. The buds that have taken will commence to grow
in the following spring, and then the stocks must be cut back to within
a few inches of where the buds are inserted. Many nurserymen, if they
find that the bud has not taken, graft the same stock in the following
spring, instead of waiting to bud again in summer.
_Grafting_ consists in so attaching one shoot to another that they unite
and grow together. There are many different methods of grafting, but
that most usually employed in the grafting of pear trees is tongue or
splice grafting. This is done in the month of March, with firm growth of
the preceding year. First cut the stock in a sloping direction, and so
that the cut may terminate just above a bud if possible. "Great care
must be taken that the scions fit the stocks," is the recommendation of
one of our large nursery growers of pear trees, and one that should be
closely followed. Therefore choose a graft as nearly as possible of the
same size as the stock. Having cut the graft to a suitable length, say
nine or ten inches, cut the lower end (that is, the thicker one) exactly
as the top of the stock was cut, so that when placed together they will
properly fit upon each other. The essential point is, of course, to make
sure that the inner bark of the one coincides with the inner bark of the
other, as then the cambium layers will also coincide. The graft should
be carefully and securely tied on to the stock with raffia, and then
covered over with either clay or grafting wax, so as effectually to
prevent the entrance of air. It is advisable to place moss over the
clay, so that in dry weather this can be watered to prevent the clay
from becoming dry. Unless there were a covering of some material capable
of holding moisture, it would be impossible to keep the clay in anything
like a moist condition. When it is seen that the graft commences to grow
freely, the clay may be partly removed so as to allow of the ligatures
being loosened. It is wise to tie the graft to a stake attached to the
stock when the clay is finally removed, as in rough weather it might
possibly be broken off.
_The above is reprinted from "The Book of the Apple" in the present
series of handbooks._
Handbooks of Practical Gardening
Under the General Editorship of
HARRY ROBERTS
Crown 8vo. Illustrated. Cloth.
Price 2s. 6d. net per volume. Price $1.00 net.
_SOME OPINIONS OF THE PRESS._
_Scotsman_--"A series which has already elicited warm
recognition."
_Western Daily Mercury_--"The invaluable series."
_Literary World_--"In every respect these Handbooks will
delight the heart of the gardener. They are written by men
of wide experience, and are well got up and well
illustrated."
_Churchwoman_--"Delightfully got up, well and freely
illustrated, and full of useful and practical information
simply expressed."
_Bradford Observer_--"An elegant and compendious series, the
great excellence of which is that they are written by men
having special authority, and that they convey in succinct
and practical form what the cultivator wants to know."
_Pilot_--"The series is remarkable for the amount of
practical information and advice compressed within each
volume."
_World_--"This very useful series should by no means be
missed from the library of the sincere gardener."
_Liverpool Courier_--"A useful and attractive series."
Vol. I.--THE BOOK OF ASPARAGUS. With sections also on
Celery, Salsify, Scorzonera, and Seakale; together with a
chapter on their cooking and preparation for the table. By
CHARLES ILOTT, F.R.H.S., Lecturer on Horticulture to the
Cornwall County Council.
Vol. II.--THE BOOK OF THE GREENHOUSE. By J. C. TALLACK,
F.R.H.S., Head Gardener at Shipley Hall.
Vol. III.--THE BOOK OF THE GRAPE. Together with a chapter on
the History and Decorative Value of the Vines. By H. W.
WARD, F.R.H.S., for twenty-five years Head Gardener at
Longford Castle.
Vol. IV.--THE BOOK OF OLD-FASHIONED FLOWERS. By HARRY
ROBERTS, author of "The Chronicle of a Cornish Garden."
Vol. V.--THE BOOK OF BULBS. By S. ARNOTT, of Carsethorne,
near Dumfries.
Vol. VI.--THE BOOK OF THE APPLE. By H. H. THOMAS, Assistant
Editor of "The Garden," late of the Royal Gardens, Windsor.
Together with chapters by the Editor on the History and
Cooking of the Apple and the Preparation of Cider.
Vol. VII.--THE BOOK OF VEGETABLES. By GEORGE WYTHES, V.M.H.,
Head Gardener at Syon House. Together with chapters on
History and Cookery, by the Editor.
VOL. VIII.--THE BOOK OF ORCHIDS. By W. H. WHITE,
F.R.H.S., Orchid Grower to Sir Trevor Lawrence, President of
the Royal Horticultural Society.
VOL. IX.--THE BOOK OF THE STRAWBERRY. With chapters
on the Raspberry, Blackberry, Loganberry, Japanese Wineberry
and allied fruits. By EDWIN BECKETT, F.R.H.S., Head Gardener
at Aldenham Park.
VOL. X.--THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS. By S. ARNOTT,
F.R.H.S., author of "The Book of Bulbs."
VOL. XI.--THE BOOK OF PEARS AND PLUMS. By the Rev.
E. BARTRUM, D.D.
VOL. XII.--THE BOOK OF HERBS. By LADY ROSALIND
NORTHCOTE.
VOL. XIII.--THE BOOK OF THE WILD GARDEN. By S. W.
FITZHERBERT.
VOL. XIV.--THE BOOK OF BEES. By CHARLES HARRISON.
BOOKS FOR COUNTRY HOUSES
BY "E. V. B."
Author of "Days and Hours in a Garden."
Seven Gardens and a Palace. Illustrated by
F. L. B. GRIGGS and ARTHUR GORDON. _Third Edition._
Price 5s. net. Crown 8vo. Price $1.50.
BY HARRY ROBERTS
The Chronicle of a Cornish Garden.
With Seven ideal Illustrations by F. L. B. GRIGGS.
Price 5s. net. Crown 8vo. Price $1.50 net.
BY FRANCIS BACON
Of Gardens: An Essay. With an Introduction
by HELEN MILMAN and a Cover Design and Frontispiece
by EDMUND H. NEW.
Price 2s. 6d. net. Demy 16mo. Price 50 cents net.
BY MRS LESLIE WILLIAMS
A Garden in the Suburbs. With Eight
Illustrations.
Price 5s. net. Crown 8vo. Price $1.25 net.
BY MARY P. MILNE-HOME
Stray Leaves from a Border Garden.
With Eight Illustrations by F. L. B. GRIGGS.
Price 6s. net. Crown 8vo. Price $1.50 net.
BY HELEN MILMAN
In the Garden of Peace. With 24 Illustrations
and Cover designed by EDMUND H. NEW. _Third Edition._
Price 5s. net. Crown 8vo. Price $1.50.
Outside the Garden. With 24 Illustrations and
Cover by EDMUND H. NEW.
Price 5s. net. Crown 8vo. Price $1.50.