orchard house. They may have apples for their companions, but not
cherries, peaches, plums or apricots. The most convenient house is a
span-roof from 20 to 24 feet wide, 10 to 12 feet high to the ridge of
the roof, and 4-½ to 6 feet at the sides. Ventilators should run round
the sides 18 inches wide, and hinged at bottom; the top ventilators
should be 3 feet wide by 15 inches, 7-½ feet apart, on alternate sides
of the ridge (Mr T. Somers Rivers, in _Royal Horticultural Journal_,
vol. xxv., parts i., ii.). A good length for this breadth is 50 to 60
feet. A half-inch wire protection over the ventilators and an inner
wired door may be as necessary (as a protection against birds), as it is
for cherries. There should be a path made hard with clay and gravel
through the centre. Some advise a concrete floor; others prefer to
plunge their pots inside as well as out. A lean-to house from 6 to 9
feet wide against a south wall may be of great service. Cordons can be
grown on the wall, or planted outside and trained indoors, like vines,
near the glass. Trees in pots can also be placed there. With either
house, some ground to which the trees in pots can be removed when all
danger from frost is over is required. It should be warm and well
sheltered. Maiden plants may be put into 8 or 10-inch pots in September,
and cut back later on, but time is saved by purchasing older trees of
nurserymen; 15 to 18-inch pots will be needed in a few years. If there
is a concrete floor, the pots must be raised on bricks, that surplus
water may pass off. If the pots are plunged, care must be taken that the
water can run away. In June take them into the open air, plunge them in
the ground within three inches of the rim, to keep them warm and moist,
and to protect the trees from the wind. After the fruit is gathered,
the trees should as a rule be repotted. Prepare a fresh pot with broken
flints, etc., at the bottom, place a piece of turf on them, next a
handful of soot, and some fine soil on that. Have ready some new soil
made chiefly of good turfy loam, to which old mortar rubbish or road
scrapings, wood ashes, guano, and bone-dust have previously been added.
The whole should be well mixed. Then take the tree out with a ball of
earth, remove the soil all round the ball with a pointed stick, shorten
the rootlets around, and cut any coarse roots away with sharp pruning
scissors. Place the topmost roots an inch and a half below the rim, then
shake this compost among the roots, finally ramming the soil hard down
into the pot. In two or three days soak the ball with rain or warm
water. The trees are better in the house until re-established. Sprinkle
the leaves daily with soft water. Close and keep the house moist. The
pots can then be taken out and plunged once more. The house will
probably be wanted. They must be carefully protected in severe weather;
place ashes, earth, or manure around them. Another plan is to lay the
pots on the ground and cover them with mats. Take them back to the house
before the buds begin to move. Shape the trees in winter, and summer
prune as may be necessary. They require syringing as well as rich
feeding when carrying a crop. A mixture of poultry droppings or night
soil (half a barrowful) added to the same amount of sifted soil and of
wood ashes, with a peck of soot and a peck of bone dust, all made into a
compost a few days before use, is a strong surface-dressing. A layer
half an inch thick when the fruit is swelling should be given two or
three times, and be watered down with a fine rose. Messrs Bunyard
recommend cow manure mixed with malt combings, and (as an artificial)
sulphate of ammonia.
Liquid manure (not strong nor cold) must also be given two or three
times a week. The fruit must be thinned, and the trees never
over-cropped. Large trees in 16 or 18-inch pots need the annual renewal
of the soil rather than repotting. The flowers should be fertilised by
the admission of bees, by shaking the trees in fine weather about
mid-day, or by passing a light brush gently over the blooms from flower
to flower. Change of diet as well as air, and frequent syringing with
clear water (say Messrs Bunyard) are very necessary ("Modern Fruit
Culture," p. 23). But a dry atmosphere is best when pear and plum trees
are in flower. Syringing in the open air is good for all trees in dry
weather after the fruit has set. The following is a good wash to be
applied when the trees are brought into the house in January or
February. Put a peck of fresh soot into a coarse sack, and hang it in a
tub containing 30 or 40 gallons of water; leave it there for eight or
ten days; then remove it and throw in half a peck of fresh lime. Mix
well, then take off the surface scum. A decoction of quassia made by
boiling 2 or 3 ozs. of chips to a gallon of water for twenty-five or
thirty minutes (or steeped in soft water for twenty-four hours) added to
the above is a useful insecticide. Syringe with this before the buds
appear, but not again until the fruit is set, then once a week, or
oftener, as occasion may require.
_N. B._--Never repot until you have learnt that the ball and roots of
the tree are thoroughly moist. Soak the ball, if necessary, for twenty
minutes. In surface-dressing leave a space near the tree open, that you
may see what water is wanted. Never give _strong_ liquid manure. As
severe frosts and dull weather sometimes occur in March when the trees
are in bloom, some hot-water pipes (two rows of 4-inch) may be added if
means allow. A span-roof house should run north and south. Only the
choicest sorts should be deemed worthy of a house, such as Bon Chrétien,
Souvenir du Congrès, B. Brown, B. Superfin, Louise Bonne, B. Hardy,
Maréchal de la Cour, Marie Louise, D. du Comice, Josephine de Malines,
Winter Nelis, Passe Crassanne, Bergamotte Esperen, and others.
[Illustration: ESPALIER TRAINED TREE CUT BACK FOR GRAFTING--THE GRAFTS
INSERTED AND CLAYED OVER]
OLD STANDARDS
Old Standards that have ceased to produce good fruit should be cut down
to within a few feet of the stem. The young wood will soon bear better
quality. The trunk should be well cleaned and washed.
IRRIGATION
Wherever possible, irrigation should be applied in dry weather. An
aero-motor pump or engine of some kind may raise the water to a tank. It
should be allowed to run over the ground for some distance to be warmed
and aerated. Apply in strong soil only when the growing season is over.
LABELS
Labels add greatly to the interest and pleasure of a garden. Acme labels
are popular. Those sent out by John Smith, Label Factory,
Stratford-on-Avon, are also good. They may be attached by his copper
wire, but those of the form of the rose labels with the name affixed at
the top of a long spike are less likely to be lost.
AMERICAN PEARS
The chief pear in the States is the Bartlett, corresponding with our Bon
Chrétien. A schoolmaster named Wheeler, of Aldermaston (Berks), raised
it about 1770. A nurseryman named Williams brought it out. In 1799 one
Enoch Bartlett, of Dorchester, near Boston (U.S.), introduced it into
America, and now it is cultivated so widely that it is on sale for three
or four months in the year, and exported also to England. Seckle, a good
October pear, but small, we have from the States; the original tree is
said to be near Philadelphia, about 100 years old. Clapp's Favourite
(August) comes from Dorchester, Massachusetts; Dana's Hovey, "a
veritable sweetmeat" (November and January), also comes from the same
State. It is sometimes called Winter Seckle. Most of our good sorts are
grown in the U.S., and Californian pears are now coming to us in great
quantities. They are sent in wooden boxes, properly graded and packed.
Every fruit is in paper, with the name of the grower on it, and the name
of the variety on each box. The excellent quality and careful packing
ensure a good demand at a high price. Good American sorts are Lawson or
Comet, Block's Acme, Sugar Pear, Bloodgood, and others. Our growers may
learn a useful lesson from Californian pears in the London market.
NOTES ON VARIETIES
Emile d'Heyst is said to be equal to Marie Louise in quality, to be
hardier, and to be a better bearer. It is not a grand grower on the
Quince, nor does the fruit keep long (October, November).
Althorp Crassanne is often a first-rate pear. Mr Knight (very eminent a
century ago) called it the best of all. It lasts from October to
December. The tree is hardy, and a good bearer, but the fruit is hardly
large enough for exhibition.
Brockworth Park, almost identical with Bonne d'Ezée, was once a pear of
great repute, being large and showy, but the flesh is coarse
(November).
B. Bosc is largely grown in Kent as a market pear. It succeeds on a
chalky, warm soil. It is sometimes "first rate," Barron (October,
November).
Beurré Mortillet (new) (D. G., _i.e._ Double Grafted) is a large and
handsome September pear; gather before it is ripe.
Conference (Rivers), comparatively new, is large, handsome, and a good
bearer, but not first rate (November).
Fondante de Thirriott, or Thiriot (new), grows and bears freely, fruit
large and good. "First quality," Barron (November and December).
Madame Treyve is a good September pear, red and yellow, in chalky soil.
It bears freely, but is not first rate.
Bon Chrétien should be gathered gradually before it is ripe, and laid on
the shelves. It is said that you must sit up all night to eat it just at
the right time.
D. du Comice is regarded as the best all round Dessert pear grown. Marie
Louise is tender and unreliable. Thompson's, some think, the best for
flavour. It is smaller, and bears best on the Pear Stock.
Marie Benoist is recommended in many lists as a good late pear, but my
experience has not been favourable. It is late and large when it bears.
General Todleben is large and handsome, but usually only fit for cooking
(October and November).
Princess (new) is a late Louise Bonne, large and good; the tree bears
well.
Beurré or Doyenné Sterkmans is a medium-sized, late pear (December,
January, February), flushed bright red on one side; "second rate,"
Barron.
Beurré de Jonghe is a good Christmas Pear, but a slow grower, and needs
a wall or orchard house.
Beurré Bachelier is large, handsome, a good bearer, but quite second
rate (November).
Hacon's Incomparable is large and handsome, but second rate (November).
Swan's Egg was a popular pear fifty years ago for market, as the tree is
hardy, bears well, and the fruit is good, but rather small (October).
Noveau Poiteau is a good exhibition pear, of vigorous growth, and bears
well; the fruit is excellent but does not keep well (November).
Pitmaston Duchess is an increasingly popular pear for market. It is very
large, and on a cordon often handsome; in warm seasons of good quality,
golden yellow when ripe. Bush trees on Quince bear well (October,
November).
Duchesse d'Angoulême was a great favourite formerly, the tree growing
and bearing well. Fruit often very large, but coarse and gritty. Crossed
with Glou Morceau it has given us a child Pitmaston superior to the
parents.
Josephine de Malines is pronounced by Mr Barron to be "always good."
Hardy, and bears well on Quince (January-April).
Fouqueray is a large, good pear, an improved B. Bachelier (October).
B. Hardy is a great favourite with birds; they prefer and peck the best
fruit.
B. Alexandre Lucas is large and handsome; pyriform, the tree is a good
grower (October, November).
Triomphe de Vienne is a large and handsome September pear tree (D. G.),
grows and bears well, comparatively new.
Marguerite Marillat, a very large, handsome September pear, bears well:
comparatively new.
Michaelmas Nelis is a new variety, of which a specimen fruit has just
been sent me by Messrs Bunyard. It is as delicious as the Winter Nelis
pear (December and January).
RECEIPTS (from Cassell's "Dictionary of Cookery," slightly
abridged)
1. _To bake Pears._--Rub half-a-dozen large hard pears with a soft
cloth. Put them on a buttered baking tin into a slow oven, and let them
bake gently for five or six hours. When tender, they are done enough,
and are excellent if eaten with sugar. Probably cost 4d. Sufficient for
three or four persons.
2. _Another way._--Pare very smoothly a dozen large baking pears. Halve
them, take out the cores, put them side by side into a well-brightened
block-tin saucepan with a closely fitting cover. Pour over as much cold
water as will cover them, add the thin rind of a small lemon, a
tablespoonful of strained lemon juice, an inch of stick cinnamon, and
fifteen grains of allspice. Put on cover, place the dish in a gentle
oven, let it remain until the pears are tender, add a little white wine
if liked. If such a saucepan is used, no cochineal will be needed. Time
to bake six hours. Probable cost 1s. 8d. Sufficient for eight or ten
persons.
_To Preserve Pears._--Gather the pears before they are quite ripe, pare,
halve, core and weigh them, put into a deep jar, allowing 3 lbs. of
sugar to every 4 lbs. of pears, and just enough water to moisten the
sugar, and to keep the fruit from burning. The strained juice and
thinly-pared rind of a lemon and an inch of whole ginger may be put with
every 2 lbs. of pears. Place the jar in a saucepan of boiling water, and
let the fruit steam gently for six or seven hours. Turn it into jars,
and at once fasten these down securely, and store in a dry, cool place.
Two or three drops of cochineal added to the pears after they are cooked
improve their appearance. Pears preserved thus will not probably keep
good more than three or four months. Probable cost 8d. per lb.
_Pears Preserved, Red._--If in preserving pears it is wished to give a
deep pink tinge to the fruit and syrup, use a perfectly bright block-tin
saucepan. If this is not convenient, add three or four drops of
cochineal to the syrup or a small proportion of Red Currant or Red
Gooseberry juice.
_Pears Stewed._--Pare, core, and halve eight or ten good-sized pears,
leaving on the stalks or not, according to taste; put them into a tinned
saucepan, with 6 ozs. of loaf sugar, 6 cloves, 6 whole allspice, ¾ of
a pint of water, and a glassful of port (?). Let them boil as gently as
possible until quite soft but not broken. Lift them out, put them on a
glass dish, and when the syrup is cold, strain it over them. Some cream
or custard added is a great improvement. Time to stew the pears from
two-and-a-half to three hours. Probable cost 1s. 4d. Sufficient for five
or six persons.
For Compôte of Pears, Pears Frosted and Iced, Pears Pickled, and other
such receipts, see same dictionary.
For another method of preserving, see plums.
_To Preserve Pears_ (from an old author).--Pare them very thinly and
simmer in a thin syrup; let them lie a day or two in the syrup. Make the
syrup richer, and simmer again, and repeat this process till they are
clear; then drain and dry them in the sun or a cool oven a very little
time. They may be kept in syrup, which makes them more moist and rich,
and dried as wanted. Jargonelles are said to be the best for this
purpose.
_To Bake Pears._--These need not be of a fine sort; but some taste
better than others, and often those that are least fit to eat raw are
best for baking. Wipe, but _do not_ pare, and lay them on tin plates,
and bake in a slow oven. When soft enough to bear pressure, flatten them
with a silver spoon. When done thorough, put them on a dish. They should
be baked three or four times, and very gently.
_To Stew Pears._--Pare, halve or quarter large pears, according to their
size; throw them into water, as the skin is taken off, before they are
divided to prevent them turning black. Pack them round a block tin
stewpan, and sprinkle as much sugar over as will make them pretty sweet;
add lemon-peel, a clove or two, and some allspice cracked; just cover
them with water, and add a little red wine. Cover them close and stew
three or four hours; when tender, take them out, and strain the liquor
over them.
FOOTNOTES:
[1] _See_ Cheal, "Fruit Culture," p. 8.
[2] Rivers.
[3] See an excellent article on Pears in new edition of Thompson's
"Gardeners' Assistant," by R. L. C.
[4] See elaborate account in the "Watson's G.'s Assistant," vol. iv. p.
116.
[5] See "Miniature Fruit Garden," p. 64.
[6] See Watson, vol. v., "Storing."
[7] Hedge-sparrow smaller, duller in colour, eggs bluish green, builds
in hedges; house-sparrow, eggs white, with brown spots, nests in trees
and buildings.
[8] John Wright, "Profitable Fruit Growing."
PLUMS AND DAMSONS
What is the finest fruit in the world? The secretary and the
superintendent of the R.H.S. (in vol. xxvi., parts ii. and iii. of the
_Journal of the R.H.S._) agree in thinking that Goldoni, a yellow
nectarine raised from a peach by the late Francis Rivers is, when
properly ripened, without exception, the finest fruit in the world. It
has not been my privilege to taste it, yet I venture to think that a
thoroughly ripened plum of one of the best varieties must come near it.
The incessant demand for greengages is a testimony to the popularity of
the plum as a dessert fruit. Next to the apple, it is the most useful of
our fruits.
ORIGIN OF THE PLUM
Eminent botanists are of opinion that our plums and damsons have had
their origin in the _Prunus Communis_ found in various parts of Europe
and Asia, but others consider that the _Prunus Domestica_ is the parent
of the majority. Mr A. H. Pearson of Chilwell, Nott. (_v. Journal of the
R.H.S._, vol. xxi. part ii.), thinks that "the blood" of more than one
species is found in the plums of the present day, as varieties closely
resembling one another demand different stocks for their well-being when
propagated by grafting. The cherry plum is _Prunus myrobalana_, and of
this species there are several varieties, as St Etienne, Mirabelle
Précoce, _i.e._ the Early Mirabelle, Mirabelle Petite, and others.
Rivers' Early Prolific is said to be of the same race.
The Bullace is classed by some botanists under the _Prunus Instititia_,
and they place the damson in the same species, but the latter is round,
the former oval. The damson, a small plum, may be safely classed with
the _Prunus Communis_. It derives its name from the city of Damascus.
Damascena is the word used in Pliny for the district round Damascus, and
damson originally meant the Damascus plum. The Chinese have for
centuries cultivated plums, and in the United States plums from Japan
are coming rapidly into use, and appear to be more successful there than
in the British Isles. We find the word _prunum_, a plum, in Vergil,
Ovid, Martial, and other Roman writers. _Prunus_, a plum tree, is
derived directly from the Greek; _prunus silvestris_, in Columella and
Pliny, is supposed to mean the black thorn or sloe tree. These
illustrations prove that the plum has been known for ages, and that its
value is recognised in every part of the world. Our word plum is plainly
derived from the Latin (probably through the Anglo-Saxon), and the word
prune is almost identical with _prunum_.
SOIL AND SITUATION
The plum is not so particular as the pear about soil, yet it has its
preferences. It is not so deep-rooting as the apple and pear are; the
character therefore of the lower soil is not so important. But
stone-fruits require lime. In planting for profit, no site should be
selected for a large plantation if the soil is deficient in lime. It is
true that lime can be added, but this plan may suit a private garden,
not a large plantation for profit. The plum being hardier than the pear
will flourish in most soils, even in a heavy loam, but not in light
sandy or gravelly soil. In the latter case, something may be done by
heavy manuring and frequent removal. The trees in the R.H.S.'s garden
at Chiswick are a triumph of skilful culture, as good crops are raised
on many trees in a hot and gravelly soil. Some damsons, however, do not
thrive there. But such culture is costly. In soils of an intermediate
character, much may be done by adding other materials as suggested for
pears. If there is any doubt about the amount of lime in the soil, an
analysis should be obtained, and special notice taken of the trees in
the neighbourhood. The plum (like the pear) will not thrive in a low,
wet, undrained locality, nor in one that is very dry or exposed.
Drainage is essential to success. If, in a rainy season, water in a clay
soil is allowed to remain round the roots, canker or gumming is pretty
sure to follow. Excessive moisture is as bad as extreme dryness. The
slope of the ground, therefore, is a matter of importance. In Essex
there is often land quite level with a heavy clay soil difficult to
drain; such soil would not suit plums, though it might suit quinces. The
aspect as well as the slope must also be considered. For the better
class of plums, _i.e._ dessert varieties, where sweetness is expected, a
position open to the southern sun is best, but they will also thrive if
the aspect is S.-E. or even S.-W. Culinary and hardy varieties might be
planted in the colder aspects to the N., N.-E. or N.-W. Proper shelter
must by no means be forgotten. Bitter north winds may injure the bloom
almost as much as frost or rain; strong winds from the E. or S.-W. may
do great damage to heavy crops. Mr Lewis Castle in "Plums for Profit"
(edited by myself, S.P.C.K.) suggests that "Canadian and Italian poplars
make a good break if tall growers are required, but cherry plums, the
myrobalan, will grow into a strong hedge in two or three years' time if
the height be sufficient." Damson hedges serve a double purpose and
afford good protection. He also suggests that some of the ornamental
crabs are similarly useful for protection. Of these the Transcendant
and Hyslop or Dartmouth produce good crops of lovely fruit which are
excellent for cooking purposes and would probably sell well.
PROPAGATION AND STOCKS
The usual method of propagation is by budding and grafting. The stocks
on which the different varieties are grafted are raised from stones. Mr
Pearson states that six kinds of stocks are used in the best
nurseries--_i.e._ the common plum, the Brussels, the Mussel, the
Brompton, the Damas Noir or St Julien, and the Myrobalan. The secret of
success is to work the stock with a variety which is of common
parentage. Nearly all plums will grow upon the common plum stock, though
some of them thrive much better upon other stocks. Prince Englebert and
Diamond flourish upon Mussel, but not upon the Brompton. Belgian Purple
will not grow upon either Brussels or common plum, but succeeds upon
Damas Noir, Mussel, or Myrobalan. The accurate knowledge required points
to the wisdom of purchasing trees only from nurserymen who make such
trees a specialty.
The late Archdeacon Lea in his excellent book "Small Farms" dwells
strongly on the folly of buying cheap stuff. Trees on unsuitable stocks
or not true to name bring bitter disappointment after a few years.
"Never purchase trees because they are cheap. Visit the nurseries, and
pick out trees with clean healthy bark, even though they are smaller
than others." If you cannot go or send a reliable man, write in good
time and get an early choice. Select and accept only young trees not
more than two or three years' old. Budded trees are better than those
grafted, as a general rule, the union being better; indeed grafting is
usually adopted because budding has failed. In trees that have been
budded, there will probably be less gumming.
PLANTING
Planting is a matter of supreme importance, but the rules for pears and
plums are very much the same. Especial care must be taken if the soil is
heavy and loaded with moisture. Put the trees on arrival in a trench
(see before), and wait until the ground is fit and the soil as fine as
possible so that the roots may run freely through it. Get the stakes
ready and place them in position before planting. Bind the tree, if
tall, at once when planted to the stake by soft willow twigs or other
means, taking every care that the bark is not rubbed by the stake. Old
cloth or carpet may be used for this purpose, tarred twine or cord being
passed round it. Dry stakes well tarred, often last as long as they are
needed.
WHAT IS YOUR OBJECT?
What is your object? Before choosing varieties, or planting, it is
advisable to ask yourself, what is my object? On the answer the form of
plantation and the choice of trees must depend. If for a private house
only, the answer is easy. Then comes the question, Is there a wall, and
if so, what is the soil and the aspect? Is there an Orchard House? If
for market, for what market are you preparing? In the Midlands, the
Pershore (= Gisborne's) is a great favourite; in London, the Early
Orleans and the Egg Plum; in the North, the Black Diamond, the Wydale
and others. In planting damsons the same question should be put. The
Midland people won't have the Farleigh Prolific so popular in Kent, and
they are right; the Shropshire folks think their damson the best of all
and many agree with them. Are you near a jam factory? What plums do they
desire or require? Local circumstances and wants should have great
weight. If you are near a wood and birds are numerous, you may be wise
in not growing greengages, yet otherwise they may be the best sort for a
large outlay as the demand for them is universal.
PLUMS FOR A PRIVATE GARDEN
Let us suppose that the soil is fairly good; the choice of trees is not
difficult. We have a selection made in 1892 by a committee of the
R.H.S., consisting of forty experts, and their choice has been confirmed
in a remarkable degree by a report of the trial of plums at the Chiswick
Garden of the R.H.S. in 1901. At this trial on a soil that in a good
year is said to suit them generally, ninety-five varieties were tested,
and a good account was given of the following ten:--
Plums for Eating.
_Rivers' Early Transparent Gage._--"Green or greenish yellow, flushed
with red, the finest early dessert plum, a good cropper, habit bushy,
compact, vigorous."--R.[9] August 21.
_Dennistoun's Superb Gage._--"Green and of greengage flavour, a
first-rate dessert variety, of exquisite flavour, cropping well as a
bush tree in the open air, habit erect, compact, vigorous."--R. August
26.
_Jefferson's._--"Fruit larger than the two former, yellow, covered with
small red dots, habit erect, compact, very vigorous, the best 'all
round' table kind, succeeds in every form."--R. September 6.
In the list of 1892 _Belgian Purple_ was named as a plum for eating, but
it is only fit for the table in warm seasons, "dark purple, of medium
size, bears well, habit erect, compact, vigorous."--R. August 19.
Plums for Cooking.
[Illustration: PLUM--RIVERS' EARLY PROLIFIC]
_Rivers' Early Prolific_, a dark purple fruit, rather small but one
which comes in early so that it is often first in the market; thus the
tree has time to rest and recover before winter. "A very early and
valuable cooking plum; of fair quality for dessert, a great and constant
bearer." The tree does not thrive everywhere, nor is it very
vigorous.--R. July 23.
[Illustration: PLUM--CZAR]
_Rivers' Czar._--"Dark red or purple, of medium size, very good bearer,
habit erect, compact, vigorous."--R. August 2.
_Victoria_, "Fruit large and bright red, very heavy cropper, the most
popular plum and best for general purposes."--R. August 22.
_Cox's Emperor_, or Denbigh, or Denbigh Seedling, "a large dark red of
the Orleans type, habit erect, compact, vigorous, a very good free
bearing plum that always cooks well."--R. August 22.