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| Transcriber's Note |
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| A quincunx is a geometric pattern consisting |
| of five points, four of them forming a square |
| or rectangle and a fifth at its center. It |
| forms the arrangement of five units in the |
| pattern corresponding to the five-spot on dice, |
| playing cards, or dominoes. |
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HANDBOOKS OF PRACTICAL GARDENING--XI
EDITED BY HARRY ROBERTS
THE BOOK OF PEARS AND PLUMS
[Illustration: PEAR BLOSSOM]
THE BOOK OF PEARS AND PLUMS
BY THE
REV. E. BARTRUM, D.D., F.R.H.S.
RECTOR OF WAKES COLNE, ESSEX
EDITOR OF "HELPFUL HINTS FOR HARD TIMES," ETC.
WITH CHAPTERS ON CHERRIES AND MULBERRIES
JOHN LANE: THE BODLEY HEAD
LONDON AND NEW YORK. MCMIII
_Printed by Turnbull & Spears, Edinburgh_
INTRODUCTION
I have grown pears, plums, cherries and mulberries for many years, and
have written many articles about the first two fruits; yet, in preparing
this work, I found that I had still much to learn, and I wish
particularly to express my obligations to the new edition of Thompson's
_Gardener's Assistant_, edited in six volumes by Mr Watson, Assistant
Curator of the Royal Gardens, Kew, and brought out by the Gresham
Publishing Company. I have also derived valuable aid from the volumes of
the Royal Horticultural Society. The chapter on "cherries" is based
chiefly on the booklet contributed by Mr G. Bunyard to my _Helpful Hints
for Hard Times_ published by the S.P.C.K.
E. B.
WAKES COLNE RECTORY, ESSEX,
_July 1902_.
CONTENTS
PAGE
INTRODUCTION vii
PEARS--
HISTORY OF THE PEAR 1
SITUATION AND SOIL 3
PROTECTION 5
PLANTING 5
STAKING AND WIRING 7
STOCKS FOR PEARS 8
ORCHARD TREES 10
PYRAMIDS 12
COLUMNAR TREES 14
ESPALIERS 15
HORIZONTALS ON WALLS 15
FAN-SHAPED TREES 16
BUSHES 16
CORDONS 20
ARCHES 21
PRICES OF TREES 22
GARDEN ORCHARDS 22
MANURES 23
PEARS FOR A PRIVATE GARDEN 24
EXHIBITION PEARS 24
COOKING PEARS FOR EXHIBITION 26
PEARS FOR APPEARANCE 27
PEARS FOR QUALITY 27
COOKING PEARS 28
EARLY PEARS 28
LATE PEARS 29
PEARS FOR COTTAGERS AND SMALL FARMERS 29
SYNONYMS 30
PEARS FOR PERRY 32
GATHERING AND STORING 32
PROTECTION OF FRUIT 33
WINTER AND SPRING WASHES 34
INSECT ENEMIES 37
THINNING FRUIT 43
SUMMER, WINTER, BRANCH AND ROOT PRUNING; LIFTING 43
MARKETING AND PACKING 44
PEARS IN AN UNHEATED ORCHARD HOUSE 46
OLD STANDARDS 51
IRRIGATION 51
LABELS 51
AMERICAN PEARS 51
NOTES ON VARIETIES 52
RECEIPTS 54
PLUMS--
WHAT IS THE FINEST FRUIT? 58
ORIGIN OF THE PLUM 58
SOIL AND SITUATION 58
PROPAGATION AND STOCKS 61
PLANTING 62
WHAT IS YOUR OBJECT? 62
PLUMS FOR A PRIVATE GARDEN 63
PRUNING AND TRAINING 66
MANURES 68
THINNING 69
GAGES 69
MARKET PLUMS 70
GATHERING, PACKING, MARKETING 72
STORING AND KEEPING 74
INSECT ENEMIES 75
ORCHARD HOUSE 77
DAMSONS 78
BULLACES 78
IMPORTANT POINTS 78
DRYING BY EVAPORATION 78
BOTTLING 79
PLUM JELLY 82
CHERRIES--
"KEEPING" FRUIT, SUITABLE SOIL, ASPECT, SORTS
RECOMMENDED BY R.H.S. AND MR BUNYARD FOR EATING,
COOKING AND MARKET, PROTECTION, PRUNING, TRAINING,
CHERRIES ON WALLS, INSECT ATTACKS, DISTANCES,
MANURES, MARKETING, DERIVATION OF THE WORD 83-88
THE MULBERRY
ORIGIN OF THE WORD, SOIL, SITUATION, ASPECT, SHAPE,
CULTURE, PRUNING, TREES IN POTS, USE OF FRUIT 89-91
APPENDIX
THE PROPAGATION OF THE PEAR 92
ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
PEAR BLOSSOM
(from a drawing by Ethel Roskruge) _Frontispiece_
BERGAMOTTE ESPEREN ON WALL 17
PEAR--MARÉCHAL DE LA COUR 25
PEAR--MARGUERITE MARILLAT 27
PEAR--BEURRÉ DIEL 31
FAN-SHAPED PEAR TREE, ONE YEAR AFTER GRAFTING, SHOWING
THE LENGTH OF RESULTING SHOOTS 41
ESPALIER TRAINED TREE CUT BACK FOR GRAFTING--THE GRAFTS
INSERTED AND CLAYED OVER 49
PLUM--RIVERS' EARLY PROLIFIC 64
PLUM--CZAR 64
A CHERRY ORCHARD 85
THE BOOK OF PEARS AND PLUMS
HISTORY OF THE PEAR
The Pear is my theme, and a pleasant one it is. Only those who have
planted trees, pruned them, watched their growth, plucked the fruits,
enjoyed them at almost all hours, seen them on the table month after
month as an appetising dish, can fully realise the value of the Pear. A
good Pear-tree is like a faithful friend--treat him properly and he will
not fail you. Circumstances, as for instance, a late frost, may render
him incapable of helping you; he may have nothing to offer you; no doubt
he is sorry, but with patience he will do you a good turn.
_Pyrus_ (or _pirus_), the Latin name for Pear-tree, is the name of a
genus of plants belonging to the natural order Rosaceæ. _Pyrus
communis_, the wild pear, from which the numerous cultivated varieties
have sprung, is found over a great part of Europe and Asia, within the
limits of the temperate regions. Its origin is lost in obscurity. The
lake-dwellers in Switzerland are said to have stored the fruits for
winter use. It was probably brought by the Greeks, possibly by birds,
from Asia, and after a time became a favourite with the Romans as well
as the Greeks. It is mentioned by Horace, Vergil, Juvenal, and others.
Pliny refers to numerous varieties, describing those with special
flavours. He tells us that many of the sorts were called after the
countries from which they came, such as the Syrian, the Alexandrian, the
Numidian, and the Grecian. Thus he mentions _pira nardina_, a pear with
the scent of nard; _pira onynchina_, a pear of the colour of the
fingernail, and others. These last are evidently Greek. Forty or fifty
sorts are named in Roman writers, and the Pear was appropriately
dedicated to Minerva, the goddess of wisdom.
The Romans no doubt took their pear-trees northwards into Gaul and
Britain. The climate of France is so well adapted to the growth of
pears, that at one time it was thought all good pears must come from
France. I well remember many years ago seeing a garden in this country
full of pear-trees, every one of which had come from France. Happily
there is no need now to go out of England for the very best varieties. A
list published in 1628 by a fruit-grower of Orleans named Le Lectier
(there is a new variety called by his name, and probably after him)
enumerates 260 varieties. The well known Jargonelle is mentioned in that
list. Our Parkinson in 1629 refers to 64 varieties only. Seventy years
later we read of 138, and in 1829 of 630 varieties. John Scott, rather
famous as a fruit-grower forty years ago, says in his "Orchardist" that
he has above 1000 sorts worked upon the Quince Stock. He had studied
pomology at the "_Jardin Fruitier_," the fruit garden attached to the
_Jardin des Plantes_ at Paris, and, using his opportunities, learnt all
the secrets of Pear culture, and brought them from France to Merriott,
near Crewkerne, in Somerset. The last edition of Dr Hogg's "Fruit
Manual" (invaluable to the Pomologist), published in 1884, contains the
names of 647 varieties. Not a few of these were marked as worthless by
the Committee of the National Pear Conference, held at Chiswick in
October 1885. The Royal Horticultural Society in their "Fruits for
Cottagers and Small Farmers" (1892), selected eight varieties only for
eating, and two more for late keepers; four were recommended for cooking
or stewing. Fresh sorts are constantly being brought into notice, the
result of cross-fertilisation, and we may, I think, congratulate
ourselves that British pears in a favourable season are as good as those
produced in any part of the world. Let any one who doubts this statement
attend a Crystal Palace or any other first-rate Fruit Show; his doubts
will soon be dispelled.
SITUATION AND SOIL
These two points are of the greatest importance in successful
cultivation. No amount of skill will enable even a clever gardener to
grow good fruit in a bad site. Where the land is low and swampy, exposed
therefore to frosts more than ground at a higher altitude, the effort
would be useless. Stagnant water moreover produces canker, and soon
ruins trees. Pears love a deep moist soil, but not water that lies for
any length of time about the roots. On a hillside, where the slope is
more than gradual, so that in a dry season the upper part suffers from
drought, they would be a failure. Trees planted near the bottom and
properly protected from winds might succeed, yet they would probably
suffer from frost. The slope should not be more than two to three feet
in a hundred.
The aspect should be south, south-east or south-west. The Pear is of
Eastern origin, and probably retains its Eastern habit in blooming early
some time before the apple. It needs more warmth, and more protection.
To plant pears in a north aspect even on a wall is a mistake. Morello
cherries are a sure crop, pears a very doubtful one. The wood is not
well ripened, and bloom-buds are not often formed. The amount of
rainfall is also a matter for consideration. If the soil is light, more
moisture will be needed than in heavier land. Heavy clays are not good
for pears, yet much may be done to improve such soils, and some outlay
may be desirable in gardens and small plantations. Good drainage will be
necessary. The ground before planting must be well lifted and exposed to
the air; some portions should be burnt and mixed with the rest; decayed
vegetable matter should be added in abundance. After planting, when the
trees are rooted and growing, the soil should be often lifted with a
light fork, or hoed, and the air admitted to the roots. A clayey loam is
the best of all soils for the Pear, yet even that may be much improved
by exposure before planting, and the use of the fork or hoe afterwards.
In sandy or chalky soils, pears will have a poor chance even on the free
(or pear) stock, unless the ground has been previously prepared by
trenching, and then digging in a good quantity of decayed stable or
farmyard manure. Marl or clay from other parts, or turf (chopped up)
from a field, may be added with advantage. Generous treatment
subsequently in the way of liquid manure will alone make trees in such
ground a success. Should, however, the soil be shallow and the subsoil
gravel or chalk, trees must be lifted every few years, and the expense
in a large garden might be considerable.
The monks in olden days were wont to put slates or large stones below
their trees before planting, to prevent the tap-root running into bad
soil. In modern gardens a concrete bottom two or three inches thick,
sloping towards a drain in front, is sometimes made. Methods must depend
on soil and means. A concrete bottom is better than a stratum of stones
or brick rubbish. Persons content with a few small trees may lift them
frequently or root-prune annually, in which case no special precautions
are required.
PROTECTION
As the Pear needs sunshine and warmth as well as moisture, it must have
protection from cold winds. Walls and buildings are not always to be
had. Black Italian or Canadian poplars well planted and rather close
together soon form a good shelter; limes (invaluable for bees) quickly
make a good fence if encouraged to throw shoots from the lower part of
the tree and closely cut in. Hedges of damsons or the myrobalan (the
cherry plum) serve as shelters from the wind and grow rapidly. This
cherry plum blooms early, and its flower is often cut off; otherwise its
fruit (ripe in August) is useful for tarts. Protection is needed on the
south-west against the winds as well as on the north-east. The larger
trees should be placed at some distance that their roots may not absorb
the nourishment needed in the fruit garden.
PLANTING
seems a simple subject, yet the difference between good and bad work may
make the difference between success and failure. Proper planting is of
vital importance. The ground should be prepared beforehand. If it is
wet, and the water does not readily pass off, drainage is essential. The
depth of the drains must depend on the outfall. If they can be sunk
three or even four feet below the surface, they are less exposed to
danger from deep trenching or the roots above them. The drains should be
about five yards apart. The soil should then be well trenched and
exposed thoroughly to the action of the atmosphere. But beware of
opening holes some time beforehand. Should rain come, the holes will be
filled, and if the soil is heavy, may remain there for some time.
Abstain, too, from planting in wet weather. If the ground is sticky, the
roots will not have free play. Should the soil be light, well-decayed
manure may be dug in, especially if it has been well mixed some time
beforehand with turfy or good loam. In strong soil, no manure is needed.
When the trees arrive, do not unpack them until you are ready to plant.
Exposure of the roots to the air should be avoided as much as possible.
If delay occurs from rain, frost, or any other cause, put the roots in
the ground, laying the trees in a slanting position in a trench, and
covering the roots thoroughly with soil. Choose, too, a sheltered
position in the garden for the trench. Should the ground be hard from
frost, do not unpack the trees; keep them under cover, and protect them
as far as possible from cold and frost. When the ground is fit and the
weather favourable, open the earth 2 to 3 feet across at a depth of 12
to 18 inches according to the class and size of the tree and roots.
Carefully examine the roots. Cut off the points of any jagged or torn
roots cleanly with a sharp knife, and shorten all downward and coarse
roots. Cut on the under side, and towards the outside, so that the tree
may lie flat. Avoid any injury to the rootlets. The aid of a lad will be
useful to hold the tree in its place while the gardener is planting.
Spread the roots and rootlets carefully out with an upward rather than a
downward tendency. Then scatter fine soil amid them, shaking the trees
occasionally, adding more soil until it stands erect. Now tread in the
soil firmly, and fill up the hole with fresh soil, raising the earth
several inches above the ordinary level. The soil will sink after a
time, and occasionally more soil may be added subsequently. But deep
planting should always be avoided.
With pears on the Quince, it is important that all the quince stock
should be covered by the soil, as it suffers in dry weather if exposed,
and the fruit would therefore be affected. All buds on this stock should
on this account be inserted as near the ground as possible. Should the
soil be very heavy, yet pears _must_ be planted, place the roots almost
on the surface, and throw the lightest earth obtainable round the stem.
If such ground is trodden down hard, and rain should soon follow, the
ground would probably become like a brick, and the roots, kept in check,
would suffer seriously.
The best time for planting is towards the close of October and in
November. Select your trees yourself, and go only to first rate
nurserymen for pears if you want varieties on the Quince stock. Each
nursery has its specialty. Budding, grafting and double-grafting on
special stocks do not always have the attention and skill required. If
you cannot go, send your orders early, so as to secure an early choice
and good trees. Planting may continue to the end of February, but you
must not expect good trees for late orders. The roots, too, make some
progress even in winter, so that early planting is preferable in every
way.
STAKING AND WIRING
Standards should be attached to a round, strong, stout stake 2-½
inches thick or more, as soon as planted. The best plan is to have the
stake in position ready for the tree. For full sized standards, the
stakes should be 7 to 8 feet long, and driven 18 inches or more into the
ground; they should be in the centre of each hole. Choose durable wood,
as far as possible. A straw or hay band, or a piece of bagging, should
now be run round the stem, and the stake attached to it by thick string
or cord well tarred. The twigs of the willow (soft and strong,
especially the golden willow) may also be used. Protection against
rabbits must be provided at once. A wire fence round the orchard or
garden is best; where there is no fence, put a yard of wire netting
(1-¼ mesh) round each tree. This will last for years. The wire should
be 3 feet high at the least. Examine your fence every year in September
and repair. You cannot be too particular. Serious damage may be done in
a night.
STOCKS FOR PEARS
The discovery of the Quince Stock, as adapted to the Pear for budding or
grafting upon, has added immensely of late years to the popularity of
this valuable fruit. The discovery, it is true, is not a new one.
Merlet, writing in 1667 (says Mr Scott), recommends the Portugal Quince
as stronger and more favourable for working pears upon than any other
variety: "It swells equally fast with the graft, which none of the other
sorts do." Le Gendre, an author of about the same date, in _Le Manière
de cultiver les arbres Frutiers_, says: "I have been much aided by the
invention of grafting the Pear upon the Quince," and adds that he was
one of the first who helped to introduce this method. By this discovery
the well-known saying: "Plant pears for your heirs," must give way to
another:--
"That those who plant pears
Grow fruit for their heirs
Is a maxim our grandfathers knew;
But folks have learnt since,
If you graft on the quince
The fruit will develop for you."[1]
This stock checks excessive growth, and brings the tree into early
bearing. It is not adapted for large standards nor for light soil; in
good pear ground it is simply invaluable. Sometimes poor results occur,
but the failure is usually caused by the want of proper care, either at
the nursery or in the garden. Young trees are often overworked. Some
varieties will not thrive on the quince stock, so that double-grafting
has been introduced. Thus the strong-growing Beurré d'Amanlis is grafted
on the quince, then two years after some other sort is grafted on it. It
is said that in this way Gansel's Bergamot is made "a marvel of
fertility,"[2] but this is not my experience! The disappointing pear
Marie Louise is usually double-grafted, so is that excellent late pear
Josephine de Malines for cordons, bushes, or pyramids, and so are many
others. Strong-growing varieties like Vicar of Winkfield, Beurré Hardy,
Beurré Clairgeau, Marie Louise d'Uccle, and others, are used as
intermediate stocks. To check the vigorous Pitmaston Duchess, the weakly
Winter Nelis is employed as an intermediary. Our chief nurserymen are
studying the habits of each pear which needs double grafting, and
failure is rare on their part. Fruits grown on the Quince Stock are
often more highly coloured, and not so coarse as such as are on the Pear
Stock. Those who have a good pear soil then should plant no tree on the
Pear Stock, except in an orchard.
The varieties usually employed are the Portugal, the Angers, and the
common Quince. The Angers being compact, prolific, and easily increased,
is said to be the favourite.[3]
In some soils Pear Stocks must be used. The Quince would not thrive; it
is not strong enough. The latter is surface rooting, it emits more
fibres, and does not rejoice in the tap-root of the Pear Stock. But for
light and unfavourable soils, and also for large standards, the Pear
Stock alone will suffice. This is often called the Free Stock, as
compared with the dwarfing Quince. In former years the seeds of the
wild pear were used to raise new stocks, but at the present time pear
seedlings are sent from France to England and the United States in large
quantities. Our cousins, however, are exerting themselves earnestly to
improve the pear, and with their energy and variety of climate, will not
long be dependent upon France.
ORCHARD TREES
In good soil and a favourable, well-sheltered aspect, standard trees on
the pear stock may be a success if planters and owners can wear the cap
of patience for eight to ten years. Should it be probable that cattle
will use the ground, a strong and lasting fence must be put round each
tree, as thorns encircling them will not suffice. Iron fences made for
the purpose, with wire netting added at the top, may be the cheapest in
the end. Otherwise, put three posts (larch or oak) to form a triangle
round the tree. These should be well charred or tarred at some distance
from the lower end before being firmly driven in. The tops should slant
outwards. Then nail cross-pieces to the posts; old railway-sleepers are
sometimes cheap and useful. The standards in good soil should be thirty
feet apart or more. It is a mistake to allow the grass at any time to
grow under the trees. Moisture which pears require is absorbed, and the
air is kept from the roots. Reduce the branches after planting (in
October or November) to five or six at the most; cut these back to an
outer eye, six to nine inches from the stem. The roots will establish
themselves for the first year, and good growth will usually follow. The
strength of a tree depends mainly on its roots. These must not be
overtasked at first, or the tree will suffer seriously. Next year, late
in July, cut back to the sixth leaf all shoots springing from the main
branches which run inwards; keep the centre open, well exposed to the
light, sun and air, and allow the main branches to develop themselves
freely. In the winter cut all shoots not needed back to two or three
eyes. If more boughs are needed, shorten the leading shoots, always
cutting just above an outer eye. Make the tree as even as you can by
shortening leading shoots on opposite sides. Never allow boughs to cross
or to interfere with one another. If boughs are void of a fair
proportion of shoots and spurs, they should be stopped. Be careful to
admit the sun fully on the south side. Cut off all shoots springing from
the central part or on the lower part of the branches of old standards.
If young standard trees are well planted, carefully fed and pruned, the
stems kept clear of weeds and grass, they can be brought into
comparatively early bearing. Where irrigation is possible, let a stream
of water that has flowed some distance over the ground be turned in dry
weather on to their roots, or let liquid manure be given after rain; the
effect will be surprising. But beware of very cold or stagnant water!
Early pears are probably the most profitable for orchard planting. The
following are reliable:--
Six Market Orchard Standard Pears selected by Messrs Bunyard: Hessle,
Fertility, Williams' Bon Chrétien, Beurré Capiaumont, Durondeau,
Pitmaston Duchess.
Messrs Rivers' list of seven: Beacon, Bon Chrétien, Clapp's Favourite,
Fertility, Conference, Marie Louise d'Uccle, Vicar of Winkfield.
The list of an eminent firm in the south is as follows:--
Bon Chrétien, Hessle, Pitmaston Duchess, Louise Bonne of Jersey, Emile
d'Heyst, Marie Louise. At the Pear Conference (R.H.S.), 1885, Bon
Chrétien had 50 votes, Louise Bonne 46, B. Capiaumont 38, Hessle 30.
Thus, William's B. C. has 4 votes, Hessle 3, Pitmaston 2, Fertility 2.
Personally, I prefer Pitmaston as a bush, the fruit being so large. It
is a pear for a good market, not a coster's fruit. Ten trees of three
varieties would make a good orchard. Vicar of Winkfield or Verulam might
be added for a later Stewing Pear. The bloom of Marie Louise is so
tender that I prefer Marie Louise d'Uccle, a very good cropper; the
fruit is sometimes sold as Marie Louise. The list of 1885 is hardly up
to date. Louise Bonne does not do well with me as a standard, and I
should substitute Fertility. Clapp's Favourite is also very promising.
If the plantation is of any size, do not put two trees of the same
variety close together. Some varieties are self-sterile, yet quite
capable of cross-fertilisation from the pollen of other varieties. Bees
should be kept close at hand to fertilise the blooms.
The following is Mr Radcliffe Cook's list of orchard standards for Perry
(see his "Cider and Perry"):--
Barland, Moorcroft, Red Pear, Taynton Squash, early varieties.
Langland, Yellow and Black Huffcup, midsummer.
Blakeney Red, Butt Pear, Oldfield, Pine Pear, Rock Pear, late.
It is said that in France there are more than 1500 varieties of Perry
Pears. We must "wake up" and grow the best varieties.
PYRAMIDS
No one should plant high standards except under special circumstances;
pyramids are a part of almost every large and good fruit-garden. In
moist, strong soils they should be on the Quince Stock. In light soils
the Pear Stock alone has a chance. Some trees succeed only as bushes,
others can be trained as pyramids. The lists of the leading nurserymen
usually refer to the habits of each tree. Buy trees trained as pyramids
direct from the nursery. If you prefer maidens (trees one year old)
train as follows: In early spring, after planting, stop the tree
slightly, and encourage growth; next winter cut it down almost to the
stock. A strong shoot from the base must now be made the leader and the
central stem. Next winter cut this back to within 18 inches of the
ground. The highest shoot next season must be trained upwards by a
straight stake; the side shoots will form branches. These in September
must be brought (by stakes) into a horizontal position. The stronger
must be more depressed, the weaker may be left for another year. Bend
into position before the sap sinks. In winter reduce side shoots on
branches to two or three eyes. Cut the leading shoot 12 or 15 inches
(according to growth or soil) above the branch below it, so as to
produce fresh branches. Bend these down as before. As the tree
progresses, the leading shoot may be stopped in summer when it has grown
a foot, so as to throw out more branches; it may grow another foot
upwards by September, and also send out fresh branches. Every care
should be taken to keep an upright and straight stem. In summer pruning
check the upper branches before the lower, stopping the terminal shoots
so that they shall not spread out further than those below them. Stop
them when they have grown 8 or 10 inches, removing the top. Any shoots
from the branches (laterals) must be reduced to six or seven leaves
about mid-June (on young trees), so as to open the tree and concentrate
growth on necessary parts, and also to produce bloom-buds. These may
form near the base. In winter reduce to two or three eyes.[4] Pyramids
on the Pear Stock in strong soil reach a height of 15 to 25 feet, but
such trees are hard to manage. Weak growing sorts might be tried. The
larger trees would need annual root-pruning (half a side each year) to
secure good crops. Train pyramids from the nursery in a similar way,
keeping the upper branches in subjection to the lower, taking care to
let light into every part of the tree by summer pruning. Pyramids on the
Quince should be not less than 10 feet apart, 15 in strong soil with
strong sorts (such as Pitmaston Duchess, or Duchesse d'Angoulême); on
the Pear Stock in similar soil for strong sorts 20 feet apart. Avoid
crowding. Lift or root-prune rather than crowd. Do not plant two trees
of the same variety close together. The pollen of a different sort may
make each tree more fruitful. Have hives of bees at no great distance to
promote fertilisation.
The following are good sorts for pyramids:--
Citron des Carmes (on pear) early, Williams' Bon Chrétien, Clapp's
Favourite, Marie Louise d'Uccle, Duchesse d'Angoulême, Durondeau,
Fondante d'Automne, Beurré Hardy, Beurré Superfin, Maréchal de la Cour,
Doyenné du Comice, Princess, Josephine de Malines, Beurré Rance.
COOKING PEARS.--Bellissime d'Hiver, Vicar of Winkfield,
Verulam.
Others might be added. Some of these also do well as bushes.
COLUMNAR TREES
are pyramids on a smaller scale, kept well in check by lifting or
root-pruning, more like a column than a pyramid. In light soil this work
would not be needed. They are adapted for small gardens, and, well
managed, may be very useful. Plant from 8 to 10 feet apart.
ESPALIERS
in the open ground (according to some good growers) are the most
economical of space, but I do not care much for them. Train at first
from maidens as for a pyramid, keeping one upright shoot and guiding one
branch each side in an almost horizontal position. Cut back the leader
once a year at first at about 12 or 15 inches from the branch below to
one bud just above the buds whence the branches are to spring. From this
one bud the upright leader will grow. The branches should be about a
foot apart. Stop the topmost in summer (if very strong) to divert the
sap into other parts. Stop strong horizontals to strengthen the weak and
to promote fruit-buds. Stop shoots on the branches late in June or in
July at six full leaves, if the tree is flourishing, but not otherwise.
Equalise the sap as far as possible. Espaliers may be bought from the
nurseries, saving several years. Plant 15 or 20 feet apart according to
ground and tree. Support with rails or stout firm stakes placed 2-½
feet from the walk; place the tree 3 inches from the stake on the side
of the path. Keep the trees low to prevent shade on the garden; 5 feet
is high enough. Prune established trees in July; cutting back fresh
shoots (laterals) to six leaves, and opening the tree and fruit to the
sun, removing shoots not needed. Reduce to two or three buds in winter;
with a small saw cut back large lumpy pieces the growth of years.
HORIZONTALS ON WALLS
should be trained as Espaliers. They are better for a low than a high
wall. The branches should be about a foot (four bricks) apart. In some
old gardens, enormous Horizontals may be seen with the branches at
distant ends turned upwards. The lower branches are horizontal as far as
the space allows, then turned upwards. This change checks the sap,
lessens luxuriance, and promotes fruit-buds. But there often is
excessive growth in the upper parts. These upper shoots must be pruned
before the lower. Such trees are called Palmetto Verrier, and are
scarcely to be recommended.
FAN-SHAPED TREES
are adapted to high walls. Tomatoes or other fruits may be grown below
in the vacant spaces. By planting a standard against a high wall, it
will soon be covered if fed and duly trained. Cut the tree back as an
orchard standard after planting. Keep the boughs well away from each
other, 12 inches or more apart. If a wall is shaded with foliage it
derives little heat from the sun. Stop the gross upright shoots early in
the season to spread the sap, and summer prune in July. Keep the
branches close to the wall, and complete pruning in winter. These trees
must be on the Pear Stock. The choicest sorts, such as Doyenné du
Comice, Beurré Superfin or Diel should be selected for a south wall.
Prune the upper parts before the lower. Wires may be placed on the walls
1-½ inches out, with an interval of 12 inches or more between each
wire.
BUSHES
are of great value, either in a plantation or a garden. In good soil,
even those on the quince grow large, and may need root-pruning or
moving. In poor soil, with gravel or chalk not far below, bushes on Pear
Stock must be moved every few years, and well fed. Rotten manure
given in the autumn will attract and feed the roots. Fruit on low bushes
is less affected by strong winds. Some sorts do better as bushes than as
pyramids; bushes, too, are more under control. A maiden tree after
planting should be allowed to grow for a year unchecked, to establish
the roots. In winter cut the tree back to within a foot of the ground.
In the spring it will throw out vigorous shoots. Select three or four of
these, and fix them in position with stakes, removing the others. Next
winter cut these back to an outer eye, leaving six or nine inches of
each branch from the stem. Other branches will soon follow. Time will be
saved by buying bushes from the nursery. Keep these as open as possible,
especially on the south side and the centre. Each branch should be a
foot apart. Summer prune in July and winter as before. Stop the branches
in summer, if growing rapidly, to produce fruit spurs, and in winter cut
back to strong wood (to an outer eye). All new wood will thus be
feathered during the following year. Some bushes are very diffuse and
need much room, _e.g._ Catillac and Uvedale St Germain. Bushes on quince
should be eight to twelve feet apart; strong growers, such as Pitmaston,
Duchesse d'Angoulême, Catillac, should be even more in good soil, if
root-pruning is not to be practised. The following are good as bush
trees:--
[Illustration: BERGAMOTTE ESPEREN ON WALL]
_Dessert Pears._--Doyenné d'Été (very early), Beurré Giffard,
Jargonelle, B. d'Amanlis, Doyenné Boussoch, Louise Bonne, Pitmaston
Duchess, Emile d'Heyst, B. Diel, Forelle or Trout Pear, B. Clairgeau,
Winter Nelis, Josephine de Malines, Passe Crassanne, Easter Beurré.
_Cooking Pears._--Catillac, Uvedale's St Germain, Verulam (more
compact), Bellissime d'Hiver (grows like a cypress). Others might be
added. Some of these do well also as pyramids.
CORDONS
oblique or diagonal, on one stem only, are my favourites. The finest
fruit can be grown on them even in the open, if the situation is good
and well protected. They are usually placed against a wall, but they
also do well on wires. These should be put near a path about 18 inches
or 2 feet away, and 2 to 3 feet should be allowed the other side. If the
wires run N. and S., the best fruit will be on the S. side. E. and W. is
a better aspect, but both are good if there is shelter. On a wall, S. or
S.-W. is best. Plant single cordons in good ground, they will soon grow
and bear. Double-grafted trees are dearer, yet cheap. All in such soil
should be on Quince. On chalk or gravel soils they must be on the pear
or free stock. Older trees cost a trifle more, but never buy _old
trees_. Old trees are like old folks, they rarely transplant well. Avoid
horizontal or double cordons. The former are too near the ground, and
often in the gardener's way. The latter are not so manageable as single
stems. Sometimes single stems fail from various causes; they can be
easily removed, and a fresh tree substituted at little cost. In a year
or two the new tree, if not cropped at first, may begin to do well and
bear fruit. Plant 18 or 20 inches from each other at an angle of 45°;
when the tree reaches the top wire, train it onwards. After a time, this
wire may be crowded; then a tree here and there may be allowed (as a
single stem) to go upwards. But root-pruning (half a side only) each
year will keep gross growers in check. Stop the tops of strong growers
of any size after planting to produce fruit buds, and always remove
blossom buds at the top. All varieties do well as cordons; the most
tender should be planted in the best protected and warmest spot. The
wires (galvanised) should be stretched from iron posts, the latter
strengthened with stays. Bars of iron perforated, flat, and light, 6 or
7 feet apart, should keep the wires in position. The lowest wire should
be about 18 inches from the ground, the wires above at least 12 inches
apart. Six feet is a sufficient height for the top wire. Otherwise the
garden is shaded and the trees require a ladder. Oak posts 7 to 8 feet
long, 4 to 5 inches through, tarred or charred at the bottom, are
perhaps cheaper at first. These also require stays. In three or four
years the wires are almost covered, and good crops in a fine season
follow. Leave openings at intervals for gardeners to go through.
ARCHES
(with a cordon on each) may also be formed over paths and wires
stretched from one to another. But beware of bringing them very near to
each other. Sun and air are essential to success. A shoot allowed to run
along a high horizontal wire will often bear fine fruit. Walls too
should be covered with cordons rather than horizontals. Double the crop
is often secured in half the time. Visitors to the Chiswick Gardens of
the R.H.S. may see a large number on a high wall bearing in a hot
gravelly soil good fruit. The treatment of all such trees is simple. If
against a wall and on light soil, they must be fed well. Stable manure
should be given in the autumn and left to decay; liquid manure when the
fruit begins to swell. Summer prune in July, pinching or cutting new
growths back to the sixth leaf, reducing these in autumn to two or three
eyes, but leaving fruit buds untouched. Root prune when necessary in
late October or November. In winter, look over the trees, see that all
are tied properly, reduce with a small saw any large lumps of wood
formed in the course of years, and prepare the trees for spraying or
washing.
PRICES OF TREES
The cost of Standards is usually from 1s. 6d. to 2s. 6d.; Maidens or
Yearlings 1s. 6d. each, 12s. per dozen; Bush and Pyramids on Pear or
Quince 1s. 6d. to 3s. 6d.; cordons, 1s. 6d. each, 12s. per dozen;
double-grafted trees 2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d.
GARDEN ORCHARDS
Bush trees on the Quince are best for these. They come soon into
bearing, are interesting and sometimes profitable. Heavy fruits have a
better chance than those on standards or on pyramids. These latter
require more time, and are more exposed to the wind. Pyramids can soon
be converted into bushes by cutting out the central branch within 2 or 3
feet of the ground. Begin by enclosing your orchard with a wire fence,
then form a hedge of damsons. Plant your pears 8 to 12 feet apart. Keep
avenues open for the transit of manures; one hard path or road may be
very useful. Use intermediate spaces for other crops while the bushes
are young. As crops cannot be expected every year, grow gooseberries,
strawberries, currants, salads, etc., in a large plantation. Trees of
the same variety should not be planted next each other. Pollination is
often promoted by a different variety being close at hand. The following
are reliable and saleable:--Beacon, Clapp's Favourite, Bon Chrétien, B.
d'Amanlis, Souvenir du Congrès, Louise Bonne, Fertility, B. Hardy, D. du
Comice, Durondeau, Pitmaston Duchess, B. Diel, Josephine de Malines, and
(cooking) Verulam. No one growing for market should plant all these
sorts except in a large plantation, a first rate soil, and a well
sheltered position. For market only take Bon Chrétien, Amanlis,
Fertility, Durondeau, Pitmaston Duchess, Josephine de Malines, Verulam.
Bon Chrétien does not suit every soil. Clapp's Favourite might be
better. Fertility, Durondeau and Pitmaston are a good three; Hessle,
Beacon and Fertility, if earlier pears are desired.
MANURES
The artificial manures recommended by the R.H.S. are as follows: 4 oz.
of Basic slag and 1 oz. of Kainit per square yard (as far as the roots
extend) in the autumn; follow these in February or March with 2 oz. of
superphosphate and 1 oz. of sulphate of ammonia. Liquid manure
stimulates growth of wood, roots and fruit. Soot (1 peck to 30 gallons
of water) allowed to stand till the liquid is clear, given once or twice
a week, is very helpful. Every fruit-grower should have a good supply of
some kind at hand. Not a drop from his stables, etc., should be wasted
in summer. In a drought it may save his trees.
But rank or fruitless trees of any age, as a rule, need no manure. If
there is a heavy crop, feed well when the growing season is over. Pears
are gross and thirsty feeders. Messrs Rivers[5] recommend "that a peck
of soot should be strewed on the surface in a circle 3 feet in diameter
round each (dwarf) tree in March. Pears on the Quince in a light, dry
soil should have the surface round the tree covered during June, July
and August, with short litter or manure, and in dry weather be drenched
once a week with guano water (1 lb. to 10 gallons), and equal parts of
soot, which must be well stirred before it is used. Each tree should
have 10 gallons poured gradually into the soil. Lime rubbish or chalk
should be added wherever there is any deficiency." If it be possible, in
dry weather allow a stream of water to flow by their roots, or in any
case give liquid manure. The roots should never be dry; cracking often
follows rain just after a drought if the roots are dry. Soot is a
safeguard against insects, and is supposed to give colour. Dr Griffiths
(in "Special Manures for Garden Crops," p. 101) says: "Nitrogenous
manures are requisite for backward, potash and phosphates for forward
trees; the former aids growth, the latter develops bloom, the sugar in
the fruit, and the ripening of the wood. Pear trees are aided by a
manure containing four parts (by weight) of kainit and one part of
superphosphate--4 lbs. of this mixture to be given in the spring to each
tree after pruning. If the trees are backward, water once a week with a
solution containing 1 oz. of nitrate of soda to 2 gallons of water." If
basic slag and kainit are given, autumn is the time, as their action is
slow. Nitrate of soda is good on hot, dry, and chalky soils.
PEARS FOR A PRIVATE GARDEN
If the space is small, try cordons or bushes. If three are enough,
Fertility, Pitmaston, Josephine de Malines; if six, add Durondeau, Bon
Chrétien, Comice; if nine, add B. Hardy, B. Superfin, Verulam; if
twelve, B. d'Amanlis, Louise Bonne, B. Clairgeau; if fifteen,
Jargonelle, Clapp's Favourite, B. Diel; if twenty, Doyenné Boussoch,
Marie Louise d'Uccle, Maréchal de la Cour; if twenty-three, Glou
Morceau, Winter Nelis, Passe Crassanne; if twenty-six, Comte de Lamy,
Dana's Hovey, Thompson's; if thirty, Doyenné d'Été, Emile d'Heyst,
Baronne de Mello, Easter Beurré or Olivier de Serres.
EXHIBITION PEARS
Size is of importance as well as perfection in every point. Coarse pears
of inferior quality rarely win. Choice must depend on the time of year
when you compete. The same fruits cannot be sent to several shows; they
are certain to be bruised and to suffer in some way. The following are
the chief pears for exhibition:--
[Illustration: PEAR--MARÉCHAL DE LA COUR]
_August and September._
Beacon. Souvenir du Congrès.
Flemish Beauty. Clapp's Favourite.
Bon Chrétien. Marguerite Marillat.
_September and October._
B. d'Amanlis. Bonne d'Ezée or Brockworth Park.
Beurré de l'Assomption. Triomphe de Vienne.
_October._
B. Hardy. Marie Louise d'Uccle.
D. Boussoch. B. Superfin.
Louise Bonne.
_October and November._
Beurré Alexandre Lucas. Maréchal de la Cour.
Emile d'Heyst. D. du Comice.
B. Diel. Pitmaston D.
Beurré Fouqueray. Magnate.
Duchesse d'Angoulême. Conference.
Durondeau. Marie Louise.
_November and December_.
Thompson's. B. Sterkmans.
Nouveau Poiteau. B. d'Anjou.
Princess. Glou Morceau.
Fondante de Thirriott. General Todleben.
B. Baltet Père.
_January, etc._
Nouvelle Fulvie. Passe Crassanne.
Bergamotte Esperen. President Barabé.
Olivier de Serres. Easter Beurré.
B. Rance.
COOKING PEARS FOR EXHIBITION
_December and April._
Uvedale's St Germain. Bellissime d'Hiver.
Catillac. Directeur Alphand.
Verulam.
Size is the chief point in cooking pears, then equality of excellence.
Size is produced by careful culture and good feeding in good soil.
The dates above are only approximate.
PEARS FOR APPEARANCE
[Illustration: PEAR--MARGUERITE MARILLAT]
Doyenné Boussoch is perhaps the most handsome of all pears, but does not
last long. Marguerite Marillat (September) is large and handsome, so are
B. Clairgeau, B. Sterkmans, B. Mortillet, Souvenir du Congrès, B. Baltet
Père (very turbinate), B. Giffard, B. Hardy, Louise Bonne, and others.
PEARS FOR QUALITY
Much depends on the season, soil and situation. In a cold season, even
pears of good quality are only fit for cooking. Thus used, they are
often excellent. The sweetest of all pears is Comte de Lamy. Dana's
Hovey (of American origin) is perhaps its equal. D. du Comice, B. Hardy,
Marie Louise, Josephine de Malines, Winter Nelis, Bon Chrétien, B.
Superfin, Thompson's, Fondante d'Automne, are among the best. A warm
autumn makes a vast difference. B. Diel then becomes first rate, so do
Passe Crassanne, Olivier de Serres, Bergamotte Esperen, B. d'Anjou, B.
Sterkmans, and others.
COOKING PEARS
Growers should keep in mind that dessert pears often cook well if
gathered before they are ripe. Stewed pears are excellent food in every
way; pears that do not ripen well can be utilised thus. There are
special sorts pre-eminently good. Verulam and Bellissime d'Hiver, very
fertile as bushes or cordons, keep and cook well. Catillac and Uvedale's
St Germain are very large, the latter often enormous; the fruit
sometimes exceeds 2 lb. if the tree is well fed. The two last are
spreading as bushes, but do well as cordons. Bellissime d'Hiver was the
favourite C. pear of the famous Dr Hogg. Vicar of Winkfield is also
good, but not so lasting. Cooking pears should begin in September and
last until April. B. Clairgeau is regarded by the R.H.S. as a cooking
pear. It is free-bearing and handsome, but not lasting. Directeur
Alphand (new) is described as very large, but needs sun to ripen.
EARLY PEARS
These are not important (except for sale), as so many fruits of other
kinds are usually abundant. Doyenné d'Été is the first in.
Double-grafted on the Quince, it is very fertile. Next comes Citron des
Carmes, a great French favourite. The fruit of this is said to be fine
when the tree is double-grafted. Crawford, a favourite Scotch pear, is
regarded as its superior north of the Tweed. Jargonelle is also a
Scotch favourite, especially in Perth, where every vacant wall space is
said to be soon occupied by this pear. It is grown, too, as a standard
on the free stock, but does not love the Quince. If double-grafted, the
leading shoot pinched as well as the side shoots two or three times in
the season, it will bear well. Beacon and B. Giffard are also August
pears. Later on come Clapp's Favourite, Bon Chrétien, and many others.
Early sorts should be gathered before they are ripe. Mr G. Bunyard
recommends that early pears as well as early apples should be laid in
heaps, covered with nettles or straw, and "sweated," to improve their
appearance. They are said to colour well treated thus.
LATE PEARS
Are often worthless until they are in the kitchen; yet a warm autumn
makes some of them delicious. The best of all is Josephine de Malines.
The tree does well as a standard or bush, and the demand for the fruit
is sometimes great. With care it will last to March. Next comes Winter
Nelis, not so hardy; then follow Nouvelle Fulvie, Madame Millett, Passe
Crassanne, Olivier de Serres, Easter Beurré, and B. Rance. A new sort,
President Barabé, has received a First Class Certificate from the R.H.S.
Late varieties must be allowed on the trees as long as possible, and be
_well_ protected from birds. Great care must be taken in handling and
storing. Bruised pears soon rot.
PEARS FOR COTTAGERS AND SMALL FARMERS
The following were selected in 1892 by the R.H.S. on the advice of forty
experts: _for eating_, Jargonelle, Bon Chrétien, B. d'Amanlis, Louise
Bonne, Durondeau, Marie Louise, D. du Comice, Pitmaston Duchess; _for_
_cooking_, B. Clairgeau, Catillac, Uvedale's St Germain, Verulam. But
Marie Louise is a poor and uncertain bearer.
SYNONYMS
When fruit trees have numerous names, they certainly are popular,
probably good.
Passe Colmar has twenty-eight, chiefly French; grown in a rich warm soil
it is a first-rate dessert pear (November). The tree is vigorous and
makes a good pyramid.
B. Diel has thirteen: among the French it is Beurré Magnifique. It
requires a good season here.
Uvedale's St Germain (Belle Angevine of the French) has twenty-two,
chiefly French. Yet it was raised in 1690 by Dr Uvedale, a Schoolmaster
of Eltham in Kent.
Windsor, a very old English pear, mentioned in 1629, yet of French
origin, has eleven. The fruit is large and greenish-yellow, flushed, but
soon becomes dry and worthless. In good soil it grows and bears well
(August).
White Doyenné has fourteen, a fairly good September and October pear,
rather large, a good bearer, "flesh white, but somewhat acrid and
gritty" (Barron).
Vicar of Winkfield has twelve. A long large fruit often twisted, fairly
good for baking, from November to January, "second rate" (Barron).
B. Rance has six. A long, largish, late pear, sometimes very good.
Wardens, a name given to pears which never melt, are long keeping, and
used for cooking only. The name comes from the Cistercian Abbey of
Warden in Beds. Parkinson's Warden is now Black Worcester. There are
Spanish, White and Red Wardens.
Bishop's Thumb was originally called Bishop's Tongue, It was a
favourite in 1690, and is still a favourite. The tree is hardy and a
good bearer, the fruit long, firm, melting, sweet (October, November).
Brown Beurré has ten; an old favourite, which requires a wall or very
warm site (October).