twenty houses only in it, which are inhabited chiefly by people who
carry on a herring fishery. Beyond it the country is much diversified
with hill and dale, and the soil being but of an indifferent quality,
the lands are so little cleared, that in many parts the road winds
through uninterrupted woods for four or five miles together. The scenery
in this neighbourhood is extremely interesting. From the top of the
hills you meet with numberless bold and extensive prospects of the
Chesapeak Bay and of the river Susquehannah; and scarcely do you cross a
valley without beholding in the depths of the wood the waters of some
little creek or rivulet rushing over ledges of rock in a beautiful
cascade. The generality of Americans stare with astonishment at a person
who can feel any delight at passing through such a country as this. To
them the sight of a wheat field or a cabbage garden would convey
pleasure far greater than that of the most romantic woodland views. They
have an unconquerable aversion to trees; and whenever a settlement is
made, they cut away all before them without mercy; not one is spared;
all share the same fate, and are involved in the general havoc. It
appears strange, that in a country where the rays of the sun act with
such prodigious power, some few trees near the habitations should not be
spared, whose foliage might afford a cooling shade during the parching
heats of summer; and I have oftentimes expressed my astonishment that
none were ever left for that purpose. In answer I have generally been
told, that they could not be left standing near a house without danger.
The trees it seems in the American forests have but a very slender hold
in the ground, considering their immense height, so that when two or
three fully grown are deprived of shelter in consequence of the others
which stood around them being cut down, they are very apt to be levelled
by the first storm that chances to blow. This, however, would not be the
case with trees of a small growth, which might safely be spared, and
which would soon afford an agreeable shade if the Americans thought
proper to leave them standing: but the fact of the matter is, that from
the face of the country being entirely overspread with trees, the eyes
of the people become satiated with the sight of them. The ground cannot
be tilled, nor can the inhabitants support themselves, till they are
removed; they are looked upon as a nuisance, and the man that can cut
down the largest number, and have the fields about his house most clear
of them, is looked upon as the most industrious citizen, and the one
that is making the greatest improvements[6] in the country.
Footnote 6:
I have heard of Americans landing on barren parts of the north west
coast of Ireland, and evincing the greatest surprise and pleasure at
the beauty and improved state of the country, “so clear of trees!!”
[Sidenote: TAVERNS.]
Every ten or twelve miles upon this road there are taverns, which are
all built of wood, and much in the same stile, with a porch in front the
entire length of the house. Few of these taverns have any signs, and
they are only to be distinguished from the other houses by the number of
handbills pasted up on the walls near the door. They take their name,
not from the sign, but from the person who keeps them, as Jones’s,
Brown’s, &c. &c. All of them are kept nearly in the same manner. At each
house there are regular hours for breakfast, dinner, and supper, and if
a traveller arrives somewhat before the time appointed for any one of
these, it is in vain to call for a separate meal for himself; he must
wait patiently till the appointed hour, and then sit down with the other
guests that may happen to be in the house. Breakfasts are generally
plentifully served; there is tea, coffee, and different sorts of bread,
cold salt meat, and, very commonly besides, beef steaks, fried fish, &c.
&c.[7] The charge made for breakfast is nearly the same as that for
dinner.
Footnote 7:
The landlady always presides at the head of the table to make the tea,
or a female servant attends for that purpose at breakfast and in the
evening; and at many taverns in the country the whole of the family
sit down to dinner with the guests.
This part of Maryland abounds with iron ore, which is of a quality
particularly well adapted for casting. The ore is found in banks so near
the surface of the earth that there is never occasion to sink a shaft to
get at it. Near Charleston there is a small foundery for cannon. The
cannon are bored by water. As I passed by, they were making twenty-four
pounders, two of which I was informed they finished every week. The iron
is extremely tough; very few of the guns burst on being proved.
The Susquehannah river is crossed, on the way to Baltimore, at a ferry
five miles above its entrance into the Chesapeak. The river is here
about a mile and quarter wide, and deep enough for any vessels; the
banks are high and thickly wooded, and the scenery is grand and
picturesque. A small town called Havre de Grace, which contains about
forty houses, stands on this river at the ferry. A petition was
presented to congress the last year to have it made a port of entry; but
at present there is very little trade carried on there. A few ships are
annually built in the neighbourhood. From hence to Baltimore the country
is extremely poor; the soil is of a yellow gravel mixed with clay, and
the roads execrable.
[Sidenote: BALTIMORE.]
Baltimore is supposed to contain about sixteen thousand inhabitants, and
though not the capital of the state, is the largest town in Maryland,
and the most considerable place of trade in North America, after
Philadelphia and New York. The plan of the town is somewhat similar to
that of Philadelphia, most of the streets crossing each other at right
angles. The main street, which runs east and west nearly, is about
eighty feet wide; the others are from forty to sixty feet. The streets
are not all paved, so that when it rains heavily they are rendered
almost impassable, the soil being a stiff yellow clay, which retains the
water a long time. On the south side of the town is a harbour commonly
called the Bason, which affords about nine feet water, and is large
enough to contain two thousand sail of merchant vessels. There are
wharfs and stores along it, the whole length of the town; but as a
particular wind is necessary to enable ships to get out of this bason,
by far the greater number of those which enter the port of Baltimore
stop at a harbour which is formed by a neck of land near the mouth of
the bason, called Fell’s Point. Here also wharfs have been built,
alongside which vessels of six hundred tons burthen can lie with perfect
safety. Numbers of persons have been induced to settle on this Point, in
order to be contiguous to the shipping. Upwards of seven hundred houses
have already been built there, and regular streets laid out, with a
large market place. These houses, generally speaking, are considered as
a part of Baltimore, but to all appearance they form a separate town,
being upwards of a mile distant from the other part of the town. In the
neighbourhood, Fell’s Point and Baltimore are spoken of as distinct and
separate places. Fell’s Point is chiefly the residence of seafaring
people, and of the younger partners of mercantile houses, who are
stationed there to attend to the shipping.
[Sidenote: BALTIMORE.]
The greater number of private houses in Baltimore are of brick, but
many, particularly in the skirts of the town, are of wood. In some of
the new streets a few appear to be well built, but in general the houses
are small, heavy, and inconvenient. As for the public buildings, there
are none worthy of being mentioned. The churches and places for public
worship are ten in number; one respectively for Episcopalians,
Presbyterians, German Lutherans, German Calvinists, Reformed Germans,
Nicolites or New Quakers, Baptists, Roman Catholics, and two for
Methodists. The Presbyterian church, which has lately been erected, is
the best building among them, and indeed the handsomest building in
town. It is of brick, with a portico in front supported by six pillars
of stone.
They have no less than three incorporated banks in this town, and the
number of notes issued from them is so great, as almost to preclude the
circulation of specie. Some of the notes are for as small a sum as a
single dollar, and being much more portable than silver, are generally
preferred. As for gold, it is very scarce; I hardly ever met with it
during two months that I remained in Maryland.
Amongst the inhabitants of Baltimore are to be found English, Irish,
Scotch, and French. The Irish appear to be most numerous; and many of
the principal merchants in town are in the number. Since the war, a
great many French have arrived both from France and from the West India
Islands. With a few exceptions the inhabitants are all engaged in trade,
which is closely attended to. They are mostly plain people, sociable
however amongst themselves, and very friendly and hospitable towards
strangers. Cards and dancing are favourite amusements, both in private
and at public assemblies, which are held every fortnight. There are two
theatres here, in which there are performances occasionally. The oldest
of them, which stands in the road to Fell’s Point, is most wretched, and
appears little better than a heap of loose boards; for a long time it
lay quite neglected, but has lately been fitted up for a company of
French actors, the only one I ever heard of in the country. Baltimore,
like Philadelphia, has differed from the ravages of the yellow fever.
During the autumn it is generally unhealthy, and those who can afford it
retire to country seats in the neighbourhood, of which some are most
delightfully situated.
[Sidenote: ROAD, AND BRIDGES.]
From Baltimore to Washington, which is forty miles distant, the country
wears but a poor appearance. The soil in some parts consists of a yellow
clay mixed with gravel; in other parts it is very sandy. In the
neighbourhood of the creeks and between the hills are patches of rich
black earth, called Bottoms, the trees upon which grow to a large size;
but where there is gravel they are very small. The roads passing over
these bottoms are worse than any I ever met with elsewhere. In driving
over one of them, near the head waters of a branch of Patuxent river, a
few days after a heavy fall of rain, the wheels of a sulky which I was
in sunk up to the very boxes. For a moment I despaired of being able to
get out without assistance, when my horse, which was very powerful,
finding himself impeded, threw himself upon his haunches, and
disengaging his fore-feet, made a vigorous plunge forwards, which
luckily disengaged both himself and the sulky, and freed me from my
embarrassment. I was afterwards informed that General Washington, as he
was going to meet congress a short time before, was stopped in the very
same place, his carriage sinking so deep in the mud that it was found
necessary to send to a neighbouring house for ropes and poles to
extricate it. Over some of the bottoms, which were absolutely impassable
in their natural slate, causeways have been thrown, which are made with
large trees laid side by side across the road. For a time these
causeways afford a commodious passage; but they do not last long, as
many of the trees sink into the soft soil, and others, exposed to the
continual attrition of waggon wheels in a particular part, breaking
asunder. In this state, full of unseen obstacles, it is absolutely a
matter of danger for a person unacquainted with the road to attempt to
drive a carriage along it. The bridges over the creeks, covered with
loose boards, are as bad as the causeways, and totter as a carriage
passes over. That the legislature of Maryland can be so inactive, and
not take some steps to repair this, which is one of the principal roads
in the state, the great road from north to south, and the high road to
the City of Washington, is most wonderful!
------------------------------------------------------------------------
+LETTER + IV.
_Foundation of the City of Washington.—Not readily agreed to by
different States.—Choice of the Ground left to General
Washington.—Circumstances to be considered in chusing the Ground.—The
Spot fixed upon central to all the States.—Also remarkably
advantageously situated for Trade.—Nature of the Back Country
Trade.—Summary View of the principal Trading Towns in the United
States.—Their Prosperity shewn to depend on the Back Country
Trade.—Description of the Patowmac River.—Its Connection with other
Rivers pointed out.—Prodigious Extent of the Water Communication from
Washington City in all Directions.—Country likely to trade immediately
with Washington.—Situation of Washington.—Plan of the City.—Public
Buildings.—Some begun, others projected.—Capital President’s
House.—Hotel.—Stone and other building Materials found in the
Neighbourhood.—Private Houses and Inhabitants at present in the
City.—Different Opinions respecting the future Greatness of the
City.—Impediments thrown in the Way of its Improvement.—What has given
rise to this._
MY DEAR SIR, Washington, November.
THE City of Washington, or the Federal City, as it is indiscriminately
called, was laid out in the year 1792, and is expressly designed for
being the metropolis of the United States, and the seat of the federal
government. In the year 1800 the congress is to meet there for the first
time. As the foundation of this city has attracted the attention of so
many people in Europe, and as such very different opinions are
entertained about it, I shall, in the following pages, give you a brief
account of its rise and progress.
[Sidenote: CITY OF WASHINGTON.]
Shortly after the close of the American war, considerable numbers of the
Pennsylvanian line, or of the militia, with arms in their hands,
surrounded the hall in which the congress was assembled at Philadelphia,
and with vehement menaces insisted upon immediate appropriations of
money being made to discharge the large arrears due to them for their
past services. The members, alarmed at such an outrage, resolved to quit
a state in which they met with insult instead of protection, and quickly
adjourned to New York, where the session was terminated. A short time
afterwards, the propriety was strongly urged in congress, of fixing upon
some place for the meeting of the legislature, and for the seat of the
general government, which should be subject to the laws and regulations
of the congress alone, in order that the members, in future, might not
have to depend for their personal safety, and for their freedom of
deliberation, upon the good or bad police of any individual state. This
idea of making the place, which should be chosen for the meeting of the
legislature, independent of the particular state to which it might
belong, was further corroborated by the following argument: That as the
several states in the union were in some measure rivals to each other,
although connected together by certain ties, if any one of them, was
fixed upon for the seat of the general government in preference, and
thus raised to a state of pre-eminence, it might perhaps be the occasion
of great jealousy amongst the others. Every person was convinced of the
expediency of preserving the union of the states entire; it was
apparent, therefore, that the greatest precautions ought to be taken to
remove every source of jealousy from amongst them, which might tend,
though remotely, to produce a separation. In fine, it was absolutely
necessary that the seat of government should be made permanent, as the
removal of the public offices and the archives from place to place could
not but be attended with many and very great inconveniences.
However, notwithstanding this measure appeared to be beneficial to the
interest of the union at large, it was not until after the revolution,
by which the present federal constitution was established, that it was
acceded to on the part of all the states. Pennsylvania in particular,
conscious of her being a principal and central state, and therefore
likely to be made the seat of government if this new project was not
carried into execution, was foremost in the opposition. At last she
complied; but it was only on condition that the congress should meet at
Philadelphia until the new city was ready for its reception, flattering
herself that there would be so many objections afterwards to the removal
of the seat of government, and so many difficulties in putting the
project into execution, that it would finally be relinquished. To the
discriminating judgment of General Washington, then president, it was
left to determine upon the spot best calculated for the federal city.
After mature deliberation he fixed upon a situation on the banks of the
Patowmac River, a situation which seems to be marked out by nature, not
only for a large city, but expressly for the seat of the metropolis of
the United States.
In the choice of the spot there were two principal considerations:
First, that it should be as central as possible in respect to every
state in the union; secondly, that it should be advantageously situated
for commerce, without which it could not be expected that the city would
ever be distinguished for size or for splendour; and it was to be
supposed, that the people of the United States would be desirous of
having the metropolis of the country as magnificent as it possibly could
be. These two essential points are most happily combined in the spot
which has been chosen.
[Sidenote: VIEW OF THE TRADING TOWNS.]
The northern and southern extremities of the United States are in 46°
and 31° north latitude. The latitude of the new city is 38° 53´ north;
so that it is within twenty-three minutes of being exactly between the
two extremities. In no part of North America either is there a port
situated so far up the country to the westward, excepting what belongs
to Great Britain on the river St. Lawrence, its distance from the ocean
being no less than two hundred and eighty miles. A more central
situation could certainly have been fixed upon, by going further to the
westward; but had this been done, it must have been an inland one, which
would have been very unfavourable for trade. The size of all towns in
America has hitherto been proportionate to their trade, and particularly
to that carried on with the back settlements. This trade consists in
supplying the people of the western parts of the United States, or the
back settlements, with certain articles of foreign manufacture, which
they do not find any interest in fabricating for themselves at present;
nor is it to be supposed that they will, for many years to come, while
land remains cheap, and these articles can be imported and sent to them
on reasonable terms. The articles chiefly in demand consist of hardware,
woollen cloths, figured cottons, hosiery, haberdashery, earthen ware,
&c. &c. from England; coffee, rum, sugar[8], from the West Indies; tea,
coarse muslins, and calicoes, from the East Indies. In return for these
articles the people of the back settlements send down for exportation
the various kinds of produce which the country affords: wheat and flour,
furs, skins, rice, indigo, tobacco, pitch, tar, &c. &c. It is very
evident, therefore, that the best situation for a trading town must be
upon a long navigable river, so that the town may be open to the sea,
and thus enabled to carry on a foreign trade, and at the same time be
enabled, by means of an extensive water communication in an opposite
direction, to trade with the distant parts of the country. None of the
inland towns have as yet increased to a great size. Lancaster, which is
the largest in all America, contains only nine hundred houses, and it is
nearly double the size of any other inland one. Neither do the sea-port
towns flourish, which are not well situated for carrying on an inland
trade at the same time. The truth of this position must appear obvious
on taking survey of the principal towns in the United States.
Footnote 8:
Sugar is not sent very far back into the country, as it is procured at
much less expence from the maple-tree.
[Sidenote: VIEW OF THE TRADING TOWNS.]
To begin with Boston, the largest town north of New York, and one of the
oldest in the United States. Though it has a most excellent harbour, and
has always been inhabited by an enterprizing industrious set of people,
yet it is now inferior, both in size and commerce, to Baltimore, which
was little more than the residence of a few fishermen thirty years ago;
and this, because there is no river in the neighbourhood navigable for
more than seven miles, and the western parts of the state of
Massachusets, of which it is the capital, can be supplied with
commodities carried up the North River on much better terms than if the
same commodities were sent by land carriage from Boston. Neither does
Boston increase by any means in the same proportion as the other towns,
which have an extensive trade with the people of the back settlements.
For the same cause we do not find that any of the sea-port or other
towns in Rhode Island and Connecticut are increasing very fast; on the
contrary, Newport, the capital of the state of Rhode Island, and which
has a harbour that is boasted of as being one of the best throughout the
United States, is now falling to decay. Newport contains about one
thousand houses; none of the other towns between Boston and New York
contain more than five hundred.
[Sidenote: VIEW OF THE TRADING TOWNS.]