Travels Through the States of North America,
and the Provinces of Upper and Lower Canada,
During the Years 1795, 1796, and 1797, Vol. I.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
+TRAVELS+
THROUGH THE STATES
OF
+NORTH AMERICA+,
AND THE
PROVINCES OF
UPPER AND LOWER CANADA,
DURING
THE YEARS 1795, 1796, AND 1797.
──────────
BY +ISAAC WELD+, JUNIOR.
──────────
SECOND EDITION.
ILLUSTRATED AND EMBELLISHED WITH SIXTEEN PLATES.
──────────
+IN TWO VOLUMES+.
+VOL. I+
════════════════════════════════════
+LONDON+:
PRINTED FOR JOHN STOCKDALE, PICCADILLY.
═══
1799.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
+PREFACE+.
AT a period when war was spreading desolation over the fairest parts of
Europe, when anarchy seemed to be extending its frightful progress from
nation to nation, and when the storms that were gathering over his
native country[1] in particular, rendered it impossible to say how soon
any one of its inhabitants might be forced to seek for refuge in a
foreign land; the Author of the following pages was induced to cross the
Atlantic, for the purpose of examining with his own eyes into the
Footnote 1:
Ireland.
truth of the various accounts which had been given of the flourishing
and happy condition of the United States of America, and of ascertaining
whether, in case of future emergency, any part of those territories
might be looked forward to, as an eligible and agreeable place of abode.
Arrived in America, he travelled pretty generally through the states of
Pennsylvania, Delaware, Maryland, Virginia, New Jersey, and New York; he
afterwards passed into the Canadas, desirous of obtaining equal
information as to the state of those provinces, and of determining from
his own immediate observations, how far the present condition of the
inhabitants of the British dominions in America might be inferior, or
otherwise, to that of the people of the States, who had now indeed
thrown off the yoke, but were formerly common members of the same
extensive empire.
WHEN abroad, he had not the most distant intention of publishing his
travels; but finding on his return home, that much of the matter
contained in the following letters was quite new to his friends, and
being induced to think that it might prove equally new, and not wholly
unacceptable to the Public, he came to the resolution of committing them
to print: accordingly the present volume[2] is now offered to the world,
in an humble hope, that if not entertaining to all readers, it will at
least be so to some, as well as useful to future travellers.
Footnote 2:
The first edition was printed in one quarto volume.
IF it shall appear to any one, that he has spoken with too much asperity
of American men and American manners, the Author begs that such language
may not be ascribed to hasty prejudice, and a blind partiality for every
thing that is European. He crossed the Atlantic strongly prepossessed in
favour of the people and the country, which he was about to visit; and
if he returned with sentiments of a different tendency, they resulted
solely from a cool and dispassionate observation of what chance
presented to his view when abroad.
AN enthusiastic admirer of the beauties of nature, the scenery of the
countries through which he passed did not fail to attract a great part
of his attention; and interspersed through the book will be found views
of what he thought would be most interesting to his readers: they are
what he himself sketched upon the spot, that of Mount Vernon, the Seat
of General Washington, indeed, excepted, for which he is indebted to an
ingenious friend that he met in America, and the View of Bethlehem. He
has many more views in his possession; but he thought it better to
furnish his Publisher with a few only, in hopes that the engraving from
them would be well executed, rather than with a great many, which, had
they been given, must either have been in a style unworthy of the public
eye, or else have swelled the price of the volume beyond the reach of
many that may now read it. Of the resemblance which these views bear to
their respective archetypes, those alone can be judges who have been
spectators of the original scenes. With regard to the Cataract of
Niagara, however, it must be observed, that in views on so small a scale
no one must expect to find a lively representation of its wonderful and
terrific vastness, even were they executed by artists of far superior
merit; the inserting of the three in the present work is done merely in
the hope that they may help, together with the ground plan of the
precipice, if it may be so called, to give a general idea of the
position and appearance of that stupendous Cataract. Those who are
desirous of becoming more intimately acquainted with it, will soon be
gratified, at least so he has been given to understand by the artist in
whose hands they at present are, with a set of views from the masterly
pencil of Captain Fisher, of the Royal British Artillery, which are
allowed by all those who have visited the Falls of Niagara, to convey a
more perfect idea of that wonderful natural curiosity, than any
paintings or engravings that are extant.
FINALLY, before the Reader proceeds to the perusal of the ensuing pages,
the Author will just beg leave to apprize him, that they are the
production of a very youthful pen, unaccustomed to write a great deal,
far less to write for the press. It is now for the first time that one
of its productions is ventured to be laid before the public eye. As a
first attempt, therefore, it is humbly hoped that the present work may
meet with a generous indulgence, and not be too severely criticised on
account of its numerous imperfections.
Dublin,
20th December 1798.
-------------------------------------------
+ERRATA+.[3]
+VOL+. I.
Page 205 line 10, for 60° read 6°.
Page 381 line 7, dele there.
+VOL+. II.
Page 18 line 28, for take, read take on.
Page 23 line 14, for houses, read storehouses.
Page 171 line 4 of the note, dele not.
Footnote 3:
These corrections have been applied to these two volumes.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
+CONTENTS+
To +VOLUME + I.
─────────
+LETTER + I.
_Arrival on the Coast of America.—Trees page 1
the first Object visible.—Description
of the Bay and River of
Delaware.—Passengers bound for
Philadelphia not suffered to land till
examined by the Health
Officers.—Arrival at
Philadelphia.—Poor Appearance of the
City from the Water.—Plan of the
City.—Wharfs.—Public and private
Buildings.—Some Account of the
Hospital, and of the Gaol_
+LETTER + II.
_Population of Philadelphia.—Some page 20
Account of the Inhabitants, their
Character and Manners.—Private
Amusements.—Americans lose their Teeth
prematurely.—Theatrical Amusements
only permitted of
late.—Quakers.—President’s Levee and
Drawing Room.—Places of public
Worship.—Carriages, what Sort of, used
in Philadelphia.—Taverns, how
conducted in America.—Difficulty of
procuring Servants.—Character of the
lower Classes of People in America_
+LETTER + III.
_Journey to Baltimore.—Description of page 31
the Country about
Philadelphia.—Floating Bridges over
the Schuylkill, how constructed.—Mills
in Brandy-wine Creek.—Improvement in
the Machinery of Flour Mills in
America.—Town of Wilmington.—Log
Houses.—Bad Roads.—Fine Prospects.—How
relished by
Americans.—Taverns.—Susquehannah
River.—Town of Baltimore.—Plan of the
Town.—Harbour.—Public and private
Buildings.—Inhabitants.—Country
between Baltimore and
Washington.—Execrable Roads_
+LETTER + IV.
_Foundation of the City of page 49
Washington.—Not readily agreed to by
different States.—Choice of the Ground
left to General
Washington.—Circumstances to be
considered in chusing the Ground.—The
Spot fixed upon central to all the
States.—Also remarkably advantageously
situated for Trade.—Nature of the Back
Country Trade.—Summary View of the
principal Trading Towns in the United
States.—Their Prosperity shewn to
depend on the Back Country
Trade.—Description of the Patowmac
River.—Its Connection with other
Rivers pointed out.—Prodigious Extent
of the Water Communication from
Washington City in all
Directions.—Country likely to trade
immediately with Washington.—Situation
of Washington.—Plan of the
City.—Public Buildings.—Some begun,
others projected.—Capital President’s
House.—Hotel.—Stone and other building
Materials found in the
Neighbourhood.—Private Houses and
Inhabitants at present in the
City.—Different Opinions respecting
the future Greatness of the
City.—Impediments thrown in the Way of
its Improvement.—What has given rise
to this_
+LETTER + V.
_Some Account of Alexandria.—Mount page 90
Vernon, the Seat of General
Washington.—Difficulty of finding the
Way thither through the
Woods.—Description of the Mount, and
of the Views from it.—Description of
the House and Grounds.—Slaves at Mount
Vernon.—Thoughts thereon.—A Person at
Mount Vernon to attend to
Strangers.—Return to Washington_
+LETTER + VI.
_Arrival at Philadelphia.—Some page 96
Observations on the Climate of the
Middle States.—Public Carriages
prevented from plying between
Baltimore and Philadelphia by the
Badness of the Roads.—Left Baltimore
during Frost.—Met with American
Travellers on the Road.—Their
Behaviour preparatory to setting off
from an Inn.—Arrival on the Banks of
the Susquehannah.—Passage of that
River when frozen over.—Dangerous
Situation of the Passengers.—American
Travellers at the Tavern on the
opposite Side of the River.—Their
noisy Disputations_
+LETTER + VII.
_Philadelphia gayer in the Winter than page 104
at any other Season.—Celebration in
that City of General Washington’s
Birth Day.—Some Account of General
Washington’s Person and of his
Character.—Americans dissatisfied with
his Conduct as President.—A Spirit of
Dissatisfaction common amongst them_
+LETTER + VIII.
_Singular Mildness of the Winter of page 109
1795-6.—Set out for
Lancaster.—Turnpike Road between that
Place and Philadelphia.—Summary View
of the State of
Pennsylvania.—Description of the Farms
between Lancaster and
Philadelphia.—The Farmers live in a
penurious Style.—Greatly inferior to
English Farmers.—Bad Taverns on this
Road.—Waggons and Waggoners.—Customs
of the latter.—Description of
Lancaster.—Lately made the Seat of the
State Government.—Manufactures carried
on there.—Rifle Guns.—Great Dexterity
with which the Americans use
them.—Anecdote of Two Virginian
Soldiers belonging to a Rifle
Regiment_
+LETTER + IX.
_Number of Germans in the Neighbourhood page 120
of York and Lancaster.—How brought
over.—White Slave Trade.—Cruelty
frequently practised in the carrying
it on.—Character of the German
Settlers contrasted with that of the
Americans.—Passage of the Susquehannah
between York and Lancaster.—Great
Beauty of the Prospects along the
River.—Description of York.—Courts of
Justice there.—Of the Pennsylvanian
System of Judicature_
+LETTER + X.
_Of the Country near York.—Of the Soil page 131
of the Country on each Side of the
Blue Mountains.—Frederic-town.—Change
in the Inhabitants and in the Country
as you proceed towards the
Sea.—Numbers of Slaves.—Tobacco
chiefly cultivated.—Inquisitiveness of
the People at the
Taverns.—Observations
thereon.—Description of the Great
Falls of the Patowmac River.—George
Town.—Of the Country between that
Place and Hoe’s Ferry.—Poisonous
Vines.—Port Tobacco.—Wretched
Appearance of the Country bordering
upon the Ferry.—Slaves
neglected.—Passage of the Patowmac
very dangerous.—Fresh Water
Oysters.—Landed on a deserted Part of
the Virginian Shore.—Great Hospitality
of the Virginians_
+LETTER + XI.
_Of the Northern Neck of Virginia.—First page 145
settled by the English.—Houses built
by them remaining.—Disparity of
Condition amongst the
Inhabitants.—Estates worked by
Negroes.—Condition of the
Slaves.—Worse in the Carolinas.—Lands
worn out by Cultivation of
Tobacco.—Mode of cultivating and
curing Tobacco.—Houses in
Virginia.—Those of Wood
preferred.—Lower Classes of People in
Virginia.—Their unhealthy Appearance_
+LETTER + XII.
_Town of Tappahannock.—Rappahannock page 158
River.—Sharks found in it.—Country
bordering upon Urbanna.—Fires common
in the Woods.—Manner of stopping their
dreadful Progress.—Mode of getting
Turpentine from
Trees.—Gloucester.—York Town.—Remains
of the Fortifications erected here
during the American War.—Houses
shattered by Balls still
remaining.—Cave in the Bank of the
River.—Williamsburgh.—State House in
Ruins.—Statue of Lord
Bottetourt.—College of William and
Mary.—Condition of the Students_
+LETTER + XIII.
_Hampton.—Ferry to Norfolk.—Danger in page 169
crossing the numerous Ferries in
Virginia.—Norfolk.—Laws of Virginia
injurious to the Trading
Interest.—Streets narrow and dirty in
Norfolk.—Yellow Fever
there.—Observations on this
Disorder.—Violent Party Spirit amongst
the Inhabitants.—Few Churches in
Virginia.—Several in Ruins.—Private
Grave Yards_
+LETTER + XIV.
_Description of Dismal Swamp.—Wild Men page 178
found in it.—Bears, Wolves,
&c.—Country between Swamp and
Richmond.—Mode of making Tar and
Pitch.—Poor Soil.—Wretched
Taverns.—Corn Bread.—Difficulty of
getting Food for
Horses.—Petersburgh.—Horse Races
there.—Description of Virginian
Horses.—Style of Riding in
America.—Description of Richmond,
Capital of Virginia.—Singular Bridge
across James River.—State House.—Falls
of James River.—Gambling common in
Richmond.—Lower Classes of People very
quarrelsome.—Their Mode of
Fighting.—Gouging_
+LETTER + XV.
_Description of Virginia between page 193
Richmond and the Mountains.—Fragrance
of Flowers and Shrubs in the
Woods.—Melody of the Birds.—Of the
Birds of Virginia.—Mocking Bird.—Blue
Bird.—Red Bird, &c.—Singular Noises of
the Frogs.—Columbia.—Magazine
there.—Fire Flies in the Woods.—Green
Springs.—Wretchedness of the
Accommodation there.—Difficulty of
finding the Way through the
Woods.—Serpents.—Rattle-Snake.—Copper-Snake.—Black
Snake.—South-west, or Green
Mountains.—Soil of them.—Mountain
Torrents do great Damage.—Salubrity of
the Climate.—Great Beauty of the
Peasantry.—Many Gentlemen of Property
living here.—Monticello, the Seat of
Mr. Jefferson.—Vineyards.—Observations
on the Culture of the Grape, and the
Manufacture of Wine_
+LETTER + XVI.
_Of the Country between the South-west page 209
and Blue Mountains.—Copper and Iron
Mines.—Lynchburgh.—New London.—Armoury
here.—Description of the Road over the
Blue Mountains.—Peaks of Otter,
highest of the Mountains.—Supposed
Height.—Much over-rated.—German
Settlers numerous beyond the Blue
Mountains.—Singular Contrast between
the Country and the Inhabitants on
each Side of the Mountains.—Of the
Weevil.—Of the Hessian Fly.—Bottetourt
County.—Its Soil.—Salubrity of the
Climate.—Medicinal Springs here.—Much
frequented_
+LETTER + XVII.
_Description of the celebrated Rock page 220
Bridge, and of an immense
Cavern.—Description of the Shenandoa
Valley.—Inhabitants mostly
Germans.—Soil and
Climate.—Observations on American
Landscapes.—Mode of cutting down
Trees.—High Road to Kentucky, behind
Blue Mountains.—Much
frequented.—Uncouth, inquisitive
People.—Lexington.—Staunton.—Military
Titles very common in America.—Causes
thereof.—Winchester_
+LETTER + XVIII.
_Description of the Passage of Patowmac page 239
and Shenandoah Rivers through a Break
in the Blue Mountains.—Some
Observations on Mr. Jefferson’s
Account of the Scene.—Summary Account
of Maryland.—Arrival at
Philadelphia.—Remarks on the Climate
of the United States.—State of the
City of Philadelphia during the Heat
of Summer.—Difficulty of preserving
Butter, Milk, Meat, Fish, &c.—General
Use of Ice.—Of the Winds.—State of
Weather in America depends greatly
upon them_
+LETTER + XIX.
_Travelling in America without a page 256
Companion not pleasant.—Meet two
English Gentlemen.—Set out together
for Canada.—Description of the Country
between Philadelphia and New
York.—Bristol.—Trenton.—Princeton.—College
there.—Some Account of
it.—Brunswick.—Posaik
Water-fall.—Copper Mine.—Singular
Discovery thereof.—New
York.—Description of the
City.—Character and Manners of the
Inhabitants.—Leave it abruptly on
Account of the Fevers.—Passage up
North River from New York to
Albany.—Great Beauty of the North
River.—West Point.—Highlands.—Gusts of
Wind common in passing
them.—Albany.—Description of the City
and Inhabitants.—Celebration of the
4th of July.—Anniversary of American
Independence_
+LETTER + XX.
_Departure from Albany.—Difficulty of page 274
hiring a Carriage.—Arrival at
Cohoz.—Description of the curious Fall
there of the Mohawk
River.—Still-water.—Saratoga.—Few of
the Works remaining there.—Singular
Mineral Springs near Saratoga.—Fort
Edward.—Miss M‘Crea cruelly murdered
there by Indians.—Fort Ann, wretched
Road thither.—Some Observations on the
American Woods.—Horses
jaded.—Difficulty of getting
forward.—Arrive at
Skenesborough.—Dreadfully infested by
Musquitoes.—Particular Description of
that Insect.—Great Danger ensues
sometimes from their Bite.—Best
Remedy_
+LETTER + XXI.
_Embark on Lake Champlain.—Difficulty of page 288
procuring Provisions at Farms
bordering upon it.—Ticonderoga.—Crown
Point.—Great Beauty of the
Scenery.—General Description of Lake
Champlain and the adjacent
Country.—Captain Thomas and his
Indians arrive at Crown
Point.—Character of Thomas.—Reach St.
John’s.—Description of that
Place.—Great Difference observable in
the Face of the Country, Inhabitants,
&c. in Canada and in the
States.—Chambly Castle.—Calashes.—Bons
Dieux.—Town of La Prarie.—Great
Rapidity of the River Saint
Lawrence.—Cross it to
Montreal.—Astonishment on seeing large
Ships at Montreal.—Great Depth of the
River_
+LETTER + XXII.
_Description of the Town of Montreal.—Of page 309
the public
Buildings.—Churches.—Funeral
Ceremonies.—Convents.—Barracks.—Fortifications.—Inhabitants
mostly French.—Their Character and
Manners.—Charming Prospects in the
Neighbourhood of the Town.—Amusements
during Summer.—Parties of Pleasure up
the Mountain.—Of the Fur Trade.—The
Manner in which it is carried
on.—Great Enterprise of the North West
Company of Merchants.—Sketch of Mr.
M’Kenzie’s Expeditions over Land to
the Pacific Ocean.—Differences between
the North West and Hudson’s Bay
Companies_
+LETTER + XXIII.
_Voyage to Quebec down the St. page 331
Lawrence.—A Bateau preferable to a
Keel Boat.—Town of
Sorelle.—Ship-building
there.—Description of Lake St.
Pierre.—Batiscon.—Charming Scenery
along the Banks of St. Lawrence.—In
what respects it differs from the
Scenery along any other River in
America.—Canadian Houses.—Sketch of
the Character and Manners of the lower
Classes of Canadians.—Their
Superstition.—Anecdote.—St. Augustin
Calvaire.—Arrive at Quebec_
+LETTER + XXIV.
_Situation of the City of page 341
Quebec.—Divided into Upper and Lower
Town.—Description of each.—Great
Strength of the Upper Town.—Some
Observations on the Capture of Quebec
by the English Army under General
Wolfe.—Observations on Montgomery’s
and Arnold’s Attack during the
American War.—Census of Inhabitants of
Quebec.—The Chateau.—The Residence of
the Governor.—Monastery of the
Recollects.—College of the
Jesuits.—One Jesuit remaining of great
Age.—His great Wealth.—His Character.
—Nunneries.—Engineer’s Drawing
Room.—State
House.—Armoury.—Barracks.—Market-place.—Dogs
used in Carts.—Grandeur of the
Prospects from Parts of the Upper
Town.—Charming Scenery of the
Environs.—Description of Montmorenci
Water Fall.—Of La Chaudiere Water
Fall_
+LETTER + XXV.
_Of the Constitution, Government, Laws, page 361
and Religion of the Provinces of Upper
and Lower Canada.—Estimate of the
Expences of the Civil List, of the
Military Establishment, and the
Presents to the Indians.—Salaries of
certain Officers of the Crown.—Imports
and Exports.—Taxes._
+LETTER + XXVI.
_Of the Soil and Productions of Lower page 379
Canada—Observations on the Manufacture
of Sugar from the Maple-tree.—Of the
Climate of Lower Canada.—Amusements of
People of all Descriptions during
Winter.—Carioles.—Manner of guarding
against the Cold.—Great Hardiness of
the Horses.—State of the River St.
Lawrence on the Dissolution of
Winter.—Rapid Progress of Vegetation
during Spring.—Agreeableness of the
Summer and Autumn Seasons_
+LETTER + XXVII.
_Inhabitants of Lower Canada.—Of the page 399
Tenures by which Lands are held.—Not
favourable to the Improvement of the
Country.—Some Observations
thereon.—Advantages of settling in
Canada and the United States
compared.—Why Emigrations to the
latter Country are more
general.—Description of a Journey to
Stoneham Township near
Quebec.—Description of the River St.
Charles.—Of Lake St. Charles.—Of
Stoneham Township_
------------------------------------------------------------------------
+LIST + OF + PLATES. +
──────
VOL. I.
Map of the NORTHERN STATES of America _Page_ 1
Plan of the CITY of WASHINGTON 81
View of MOUNT VERNON, the Seat of 92
General Washington
American STAGE WAGGON 27
View of the Natural ROCK BRIDGE in 221
Virginia
View on the HUDSON RIVER[_N.B._] 268
View of the COHOZ FALL 275
Map of UPPER and LOWER CANADA 305
Plan of the CITY of QUEBEC 342
View of CAPE DIAMOND, from Wolfe’s Cove, 346
near Quebec
CANADIAN CALASH or MARCHE-DONC 306
_N.B._: In some of the Impressions, by mistake, called “View of the
Patowmac River from Mount Vernon.”
VOL. II.
An Eye Sketch of the FALLS of NIAGARA 118
View of the HORSE-SHOE FALL of NIAGARA 118
── Lesser FALLS of NIAGARA 118
General View of the FALLS of NIAGARA 121
View of BETHLEHEM, a MORAVIAN Settlement 355
------------------------------------------------------------------------
[Illustration:
_PART_ of the
UNITED STATES _of_ NORTH AMERICA.
Click on the map for a higher resolution version.
]
------------------------------------------------------------------------
+TRAVELS+
THROUGH THE STATES OF
+NORTH AMERICA+.
---------------------
+LETTER + I.
_Arrival on the Coast of America.—Trees the first Object
visible.—Description of the Bay and River of Delaware.—Passengers
bound for Philadelphia not suffered to land till examined by the
Health Officers.—Arrival at Philadelphia.—Poor Appearance of the City
from the Water.—Plan of the City.—Wharfs.—Public and private
Buildings.—Some Account of the Hospital, and of the Gaol._
MY DEAR SIR, Philadelphia, November, 1795.
OUR passage across the Atlantic was disagreeable in the extreme. The
weather for the most part was bad, and calms and heavy adverse gales so
frequently retarded our progress to the westward, that it was not until
the fifty-ninth day from that on which we left Ireland, that we
discovered the American coast. I shall not attempt to describe the joy
which the sight of land, a sight that at once relieved the eye from the
uninteresting and wearisome view of sky and water, and that afforded to
each individual a speedy prospect of delivery from the narrow confines
of a small trading vessel, diffused amongst the passengers. You, who
have yourself made a long voyage, can best imagine what it must have
been.
The first objects which meet the eye on approaching the American coast,
south of New York, are the tops of trees, with which the shore is
thickly covered to the very edge of the water. These, at a distance,
have the appearance of small islands; but as you draw nearer they are
seen to unite; and the tall forest rising gradually out of the ocean, at
last presents itself in all its majesty to your view. The land which we
made was situated very near to the bay of Delaware, and before noon we
passed between the capes Henlopen and May, which guard the entrance of
the bay. The capes are only eighteen miles apart, but within them the
bay expands to the breadth of thirty miles. It afterwards becomes
gradually narrower, until it is lost in the river of the same name, at
Bombay Hook, seven leagues distant from the Atlantic. The river
Delaware, at this place, is about six miles wide; at Reedy Island,
twenty miles higher up, it is three miles wide; and at Philadelphia, one
hundred and twenty miles from the sea, one mile wide.
[Sidenote: SHORES OF THE DELAWARE.]
The shores of the bay and of the river Delaware, for a very considerable
distance upwards, are low; and they are covered, like the coast, with
one vast forest, excepting merely in a few places, where extensive
marshes intervene. Nothing, however, could be more pleasing than the
views with which we were entertained as we sailed up to Philadelphia.
The trees had not yet quite lost their foliage, and the rich red and
yellow tints which autumn had suffused over the leaves of the oaks and
poplars appeared beautifully blended with the sombre green of the lofty
pines; whilst the river, winding slowly and smoothly along under the
banks, reflected in its glassy surface the varied colours of the objects
on shore, as well as the images of multitudes of vessels of various
sizes, which, as far as the eye could reach, were seen gliding silently
along with the tide. As you approach towards Philadelphia, the banks of
the river become more elevated; and on the left hand side, where they
are much cleared, they are interspersed with numberless neat farm
houses, with villages and towns; and are in some parts cultivated down
to the very edge of the water. The New Jersey shore, on the right hand
side, remains thickly wooded, even as far as the city.
Vessels very commonly ascend to Philadelphia, when the wind is
favourable, in twenty-four hours; but unfortunately, as our ship entered
the river, the wind died away, and she had to depend solely upon the
tide, which flows at the rate of about three miles only in the hour.
Finding that the passage up to the city was likely therefore to become
tedious, I would fain have gone on shore far below it; but this the
captain would not permit me to do. By the laws of Pennsylvania, enacted
in consequence of the dreadful pestilence which raged in the capital in
the year 1793, the master of any vessel bound for that port is made
subject to a very heavy fine, if he suffers any person from on board
her, whether mariner or passenger, to go on shore in any part of the
state, before his vessel is examined by the health officer: and any
person that goes on shore, contrary to the will of the master of the
vessel, is liable to be imprisoned for a considerable length of time. In
case the existence of this law should not be known on board a vessel
bound for a port in Pennsylvania, it is the business of the pilot to
furnish the matter and the passengers on board with copies of it, with
which he always comes provided. The health officer, who is a regular
bred physician, resides at Mifflin Fort, four miles below the city,
where there is a small garrison kept. A boat is always sent on shore for
him from the ship. After having been tossed about on the ocean for nine
weeks nearly, nothing could be more tantalizing than to be kept thus
close to the shore without being permitted to land.
[Sidenote: PHILADELPHIA.]
Philadelphia, as you approach by the river, is not seen farther off than
three miles, a point of land covered with trees concealing it from the
view. On weathering this point it suddenly opens upon you, and at that
distance it looks extremely well; but on a nearer approach, the city
makes a poor appearance, as nothing is visible from the water but
confused heaps of wooden storehouses, crowded upon each other, the chief
of which are built upon platforms of artificial ground, and wharfs which
project a considerable way into the river. The wharfs are of a
rectangular form, and built of wood; they jut out in every direction,
and are well adapted for the accommodation of shipping, the largest
merchant vessels being able to lie close alongside them. Behind these
wharfs, and parallel to the river, runs Water-street. This is the first
street which you usually enter after landing, and it does not serve to
give a stranger a very favourable opinion either of the neatness or
commodiousness of the public ways of Philadelphia. It is no more than
thirty feet wide; and immediately behind the houses, which stand on the
side farthest from the water, a high bank, supposed to be the old bank
of the river, rises, which renders the air very confined. Added to this,
such stenches at times prevail in it, owing in part to the quantity of
filth and dirt that is suffered to remain on the pavement, and in part
to what is deposited in waste houses, of which there are several in the
street, that it is really dreadful to pass through it. It was here that
the malignant yellow fever broke out in the year 1793, which made such
terrible ravages; and in the summer season, in general, the street is
found extremely unhealthy. That the inhabitants, after suffering so much
from the sickness that originated in it, should remain thus inattentive
to the cleanliness of Water-street is truly surprising; more especially
so, when it is considered, that the streets in the other parts of the
town are as much distinguished for the neatness that prevails throughout
them, as this one is for its dirty condition.
[Sidenote: PHILADELPHIA.]
On the level plot of ground on the top of the bank which rises behind
Water-street, the city of Philadelphia was originally laid out, and it
was intended by the founder that no houses should have been erected at
the bottom of it; however, as there was no positive law to this effect,
the convenience of the situation soon tempted numbers to build there,
and they are now encroaching, annually, on the river, by throwing wharfs
farther out into the stream. In another respect also the original plan
of the city was not adhered to. The ground allotted for it was in the
form of an oblong square, two miles in length, reaching from the river
Schuylkill to the Delaware, and one mile in breadth. Pursuant to this
scheme, the houses were begun on the Delaware side; but instead of
having been carried on towards the Schuylkill, the current of building
has kept entirely on one side. The houses extend for two miles nearly
along the Delaware, but, on an average, not more than half a mile
towards the Schuylkill: this is to be attributed to the great
superiority of the one river over the other. All the houses built beyond
the boundary line of the oblong square are said to be in the
“Liberties,” as the jurisdiction of the corporation does not extend to
that part of the town. Here the streets are very irregularly built, but
in the city they all intersect each other at right angles, according to
the original plan. The principal street is one hundred feet wide; the
others vary from eighty to fifty. They are all tolerably well paved with
pebble stones in the middle; and on each side, for the convenience of
passengers, there is a footway paved with red brick.
The houses within the limits of the city are for the most part built of
brick; a few, and a few only, are of wood.
In the old parts of the town they are in general small, heavy, and
inconvenient; but amongst those which have been lately erected, many are
to be found that are light, airy, and commodious. In the whole city,
however, there are only two or three houses that particularly attract
the attention, on account of their size and architecture, and but little
beauty is observable in the designs of any of these. The most spacious
and the most remarkable one amongst them stands in Chesnut-street, but
it is not yet quite finished. At present it appears a huge mass of red
brick and pale blue marble, which bids defiance to simplicity and
elegance. This superb mansion, according to report, has already cost
upwards of fifty thousand guineas, and stands as a monument of the
increasing luxury of the city of Philadelphia.
As for the public buildings, they are all heavy tasteless piles of red
brick, ornamented with the same sort of blue marble as that already
mentioned, and which but ill accord together, unless indeed we except
the new Bank of the United States, and the presbyterian church in
High-street. The latter building is ornamented with a handsome portico
in front, supported by six pillars in the Corinthian order; but it is
seen to great disadvantage on account of the market house, which
occupies the center of the street before it. The buildings next to
these, that are most deserving of notice, are the State House, the
President’s House, the Hospital, the Bettering House, and the Gaol.
[Sidenote: PHILADELPHIA.]
The State House is situated in Chesnut-street; and, considering that no
more than fifty-three years elapsed from the time the first cabin was
built on the spot marked out for the city, until it was erected, the
architecture calls forth both our surprise and admiration. The State
House is appropriated to the use of the legislative bodies of the state.
Attached to this edifice are the congress and the city-halls. In the
former, the congress of the United States meets to transact business.
The room allotted to the representatives of the lower house is about
sixty feet in length, and fitted up in the plainest manner. At one end
of it is a gallery, open to every person that chuses to enter it; the
stair-case leading to which runs directly from the public street. The
senate chamber is in the story above this, and it is furnished and
fitted up in a much superior style to that of the lower house. In the
city hall the courts of justice are held, the supreme court of the
United States, as well as that of the state of Pennsylvania, and those
of the city.
The president’s house, as it is called, was erected for the residence of
the president, before the removal of the seat of the federal government
from Philadelphia was agitated. The original plan of this building was
drawn by a private gentleman, resident in the neighbourhood of
Philadelphia, and was possessed, it is said, of no small share of merit;
but the committee of citizens, that was appointed to take the plan into
consideration, and to direct the building, conceiving that it could be
improved upon, reversed the positions of the upper and lower stories,
placing the latter at top, so that the pilasters, with which it is
ornamented, appear suspended in the air. The committee also contrived,
that the windows of the principal apartments, instead of opening into a
spacious area in front of the house, as was designed at first, should
face towards the confined back yards of the adjoining houses. This
building is not yet finished, and as the removal of the seat of
government to the federal city of Washington is so shortly to take
place, it is most probable that it will never be occupied by the
president. To what purpose it will be now applied is yet undetermined.
Some imagine, that it will be converted into a city hotel; others, that
it will be destined for the residence of the governor of the state. For
the latter purpose, it would be unfit in the extreme, the salary of the
governor being so inconsiderable, that it would not enable him to keep
up an establishment suitable to a dwelling of one-fourth part the size
of it.
[Sidenote: PHILADELPHIA.]
The hospital, for its airiness, for its convenient accommodation for the
sick and infirm, and for the neatness exhibited throughout every part of
it, cannot be surpassed by any institution of the kind in the world. The
plan of the building is in the form of the letter H. At present but one
wing and a part of the center are finished; but the rest of the building
is in a state of forwardness. It is two stories high, and underneath the
whole are cells for lunatics. Persons labouring under any disorder of
body or mind are received into this hospital, excepting such as have
diseases that are contagious, and of a malignant nature; such patients,
however, have the advice of the attending physicians gratis, and are
supplied with medicine from the hospital dispensary.
The productive stock of this hospital, in the year 1793, was estimated
£.17,065 currency; besides which there are estates belonging to it that
as yet produce nothing. The same year, the legislature granted £.10,000
for enlarging the building, and adding thereto a Lying-in and Foundling
hospital. The annual private donations are very considerable. Those that
contribute a certain sum have the power of electing the directors, who
are twelve in number, and chosen yearly. The directors appoint six of
the most skilful surgeons and physicians in the city to attend; there is
also a surgeon and apothecary resident in the home. From the year 1756,
when it was built, to the year 1793 inclusive, nearly 9,000 patients
were admitted into this hospital, upwards of 6,000 of whom were relieved
or cured. The hospital stands within the limits of the city, but it is
more than a quarter of a mile removed from any of the other buildings.
There are spacious walks within the inclosure for such of the patients
as are in a state of convalescence.
The Bettering House, which is under the care of the overseers of the
poor, stands in the same neighbourhood, somewhat farther removed from
the houses of the city. It is a spacious building of brick, with
extensive walks and gardens. The poor of the city and neighbourhood are
here furnished with employment, and comfortably lodged and dieted.
During the severity of the winter season, many aged and reduced persons
seek refuge in this place, and leave it again on the return of spring.
Whilst they stay there, they are under very little restraint, and go in
and out when they please; they must, however, behave orderly. This
institution is supported by a tax on the town.
[Sidenote: PHILADELPHIA.]
The gaol is a spacious building of common stone, one hundred feet in
front. It is fitted up with solitary cells, on the new plan, and the
apartments are all arched, to prevent the communication of fire. Behind
the building are extensive yards, which are secured by lofty walls. This
gaol is better regulated, perhaps, than any other on the face of the
globe. By the new penal laws of Pennsylvania, lately enacted, no crime
is punishable with death, excepting murder of the first degree, by which
is meant, murder that is perpetrated by wilful premeditated intention,
or in attempts to commit rape, robbery, or the like. Every other
offence, according to its enormity, is punished by solitary imprisonment
of a determined duration. Objections may be made to this mode of
punishment, as not being sufficiently severe on the individual to atone
for an atrocious crime; nor capable, because not inflicted in public, of
deterring evil-minded persons in the community from the commission of
offences which incur the rigour of the law; but on a close examination,
it will be found to be very severe; and as far as an opinion can be
formed from the trial that has been hitherto made by the state of
Pennsylvania, it seems better calculated to restrain the excesses of the
people than any other. If any public punishment could strike terror into
the lawless part of the multitude, it is as likely that the infliction
of death would do it as any whatsoever: but death is divested of many of
his terrors, after being often presented to our view; so that we find in
countries, for instance in England, where it occurs often as punishment,
the salutary effects that might be expected from it are in a great
measure lost. The unfortunate wretch, who is doomed to forfeit his life
in expiation of the crimes he has committed, in numberless instances,
looks forward with apparent unconcern to the moment in which he is to be
launched into eternity; his companions around him only condole with him,
because his career of iniquity has so suddenly been impeded by the
course of justice: or, if he is not too much hardened in the paths of
vice, but falls a prey to remorse, and sees all the horrors of his
impending fate, they endeavour to rally his broken spirits by the
consoling remembrance, that the pangs he has to endure are but the pangs
of a moment, which they illustrate by the speedy exit of one whose death
he was perhaps himself witness to but a few weeks before. A month does
not pass over in England without repeated executions; and there is
scarcely a vagabond to be met with in the country, who has seen a fellow
creature suspended from the gallows. We all know what little good effect
such spectacles produce. But immured in darkness and solitude, the
prisoner suffers pangs worse than death a hundred times in the day: he
is left to his own bitter reflections; there is no one thing to divert
his attention, and he endeavours in vain to escape from the horrors
which continually haunt his imagination. In such a situation the most
hardened offender is soon reduced to a state of repentance.
[Sidenote: PHILADELPHIA.]
But punishment by imprisonment, according to the laws of Pennsylvania,
is imposed, not only as an expiation of past offences, and an example to
the guilty part of society, but for another purpose, regarded by few
penal codes in the world, the reform of the criminal. The regulations of
the gaol, are calculated to promote this effect as soon as possible, so
that the building, indeed, deserves the name of a penitentiary house
more than that of a gaol. As soon as a criminal is committed to the
prison he is made to wash; his hair is shorn, and if not decently
clothed, he is furnished with clean apparel; then he is thrown into a
solitary cell, about nine feet long and four wide, where he remains
debarred from the sight of every living being excepting his gaoler,
whose duty it is to attend to the bare necessities of his nature, but
who is forbidden, on any account, to speak to him without there is
absolute occasion. If a prisoner is at all refractory, or if the offence
for which he is imprisoned is of a very atrocious nature, he is then
confined in a cell secluded even from the light of heaven. This is the
worst that can be inflicted upon him.
[Sidenote: PHILADELPHIA.]
The gaol is inspected twice every week by twelve persons appointed for
that purpose, who are chosen annually from amongst the citizens of
Philadelphia. Nor is it a difficult matter to procure these men, who
readily and voluntarily take it upon them to go through the troublesome
functions of the office without any fee or emolument whatever. They
divide themselves into committees; each of these takes it in turn, for a
stated period, to visit every part of the prison; and a report is made
to the inspectors at large, who meet together at times regularly
appointed. From the report of the committee an opinion is formed by the
inspectors, who, with the consent of the judges, regulate the treatment
of each individual prisoner during his confinement. This is varied
according to his crime, and according to his subsequent repentance.
Solitary confinement in a dark cell is looked upon as the severest
usage; next, solitary confinement in a cell with the admission of light;
next, confinement in a cell where the prisoner is allowed to do some
sort of work; lastly, labour in company with others. The prisoners are
obliged to bathe twice every week, proper conveniencies for that purpose
being provided within the walls of the prison, and also to change their
linen, with which they are regularly provided. Those in solitary
confinement are kept upon bread and water; but those who labour are
allowed broth, porridge, puddings, and the like: meat is dispensed only
in small quantities, twice in the week. Their drink is water; on no
pretence is any other beverage suffered to be brought into the prison.
This diet is found, by experience, to afford the prisoners strength
sufficient to perform the labour that is imposed upon them; whereas a
more generous one would only serve to render their minds less humble and
submissive. Those who labour, are employed in the particular trade to
which they have been accustomed, provided it can be carried on in the
prison; if not acquainted with any, something is soon found that they
can do. One room is set apart for shoemakers, another for taylors, a
third for carpenters, and so on; and in the yards are stone-cutters,
smiths, nailers, &c. &c.
[Sidenote: PHILADELPHIA.]
Excepting the cells, which are at a remote part of the building, the
prison has the appearance of a large manufactory. Good order and decency
prevail throughout, and the eye of a spectator is never assailed by the
sight of such ghastly and squalid figures as are continually to be met
with in our prisons; so far, also, is a visitor from being insulted,
that he is scarcely noticed as he passes through the different wards.
The prisoners are forbidden to speak to each other without there is
necessity; they are also forbidden to laugh, or to sing, or to make the
smallest disturbance. An overseer attends continually to see that every
one performs his work diligently; and in case of the smallest resistance
to any of the regulations, the offender is immediately cast into a
solitary cell, to subsist on bread and water till he returns to a proper
sense of his behaviour; but the dread all those have of this treatment,
who have once experienced it, is such, that it is seldom found necessary
to repeat it. The women are kept totally apart from the men, and are
employed in a manner suitable to their sex. The labourers all eat
together in one large apartment; and regularly, every Sunday, there is
divine service, at which all attend. It is the duty of the chaplain to
converse at times with the prisoners, and endeavour to reform their
minds and principles. The inspectors, when they visit the prison, also
do the same; so that when a prisoner is liberated, he goes out, as it
were, a new man; he has been habituated to employment, and has received
good instructions. The greatest care is also taken to find him
employment the moment he quits the place of his confinement. According
to the regulations, no person is allowed to visit the prison without
permission of the inspectors. The greatest care is also taken to
preserve the health of the prisoners, and for those who are sick there
are proper apartments and good advice provided. The longest period of
confinement is for a rape, which is not to be less than ten years, but
not to exceed twenty-one. For high treason, the length of confinement is
not to be less than six nor more than twelve years. There are prisons in
every county throughout Pennsylvania, but none as yet are established on
the same plan as that which has been described. Criminals are frequently
sent from other parts of the state to receive punishment in the prison
of Philadelphia.
So well is this gaol conducted, that instead of being an expense, it now
annually produces a considerable revenue to the state.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
+LETTER + II.
_Population of Philadelphia.—Some Account of the Inhabitants, their
Character and Manners.—Private Amusements.—Americans lose their
Teeth prematurely.—Theatrical Amusements only permitted of
late.—Quakers.—President’s Levee and Drawing Room.—Places of public
Worship.— Carriages, what sort of, used in Philadelphia.—Taverns, how
conducted in America.—Difficulty of procuring Servants.—Character of
the lower Classes of People in America._
MY DEAR SIR, Philadelphia, November.