_The New Cookery Books_
I
The Soup and Sauce Book
THE
NEW COOKERY BOOKS.
By ELIZABETH DOUGLAS.
Fcap. 8vo, cloth 2s. each.
I.
THE SOUP AND SAUCE BOOK.
II.
THE CAKE AND BISCUIT BOOK.
III.
THE PASTRY AND SWEET BOOK.
London: GRANT RICHARDS.
The
Soup and Sauce Book
By
Elizabeth Douglas
[Illustration]
London
Grant Richards
48 Leicester Square
Preface
The English--to their loss--are not a soup-eating nation; and for
the most part, those of us that do care for soups are obstinately
conservative in our tastes. The ordinary restaurant thinks it has
done its duty when ox-tail, mock-turtle and tomato soup have been
included in the bill of fare. Yet the range of soups is very wide, as
the hundred pages of recipes (by no means exhaustive) that follow will
show; and that they may lead some readers to add to the elasticity of
the domestic menu, is the ambition of the compiler. All are good, few
are expensive, and none exotic. I should like it to be understood also
that the directions need not be considered absolutely final. Every
recipe can be made the basis of mild experiment, by slight differences
in the ingredients or quantities. Two final remarks: soup never ought
to be served in large quantities (our tendency in England when we take
it is to take too much); and in the preparation of it the first and
last word is “simmer.”
E. D.
Table of Contents
Soups
PAGES
Stocks 7-11
Clear Soups 16-22
Thick Soups 24-33
Thickened Vegetable Soups made with Stock 35-40
Vegetable Soups made without Stock 42-48
Soups thickened with a Liaison of Cream and Yolk of Egg 51-58
Vegetable Purées 61-70
Meat Purées 73-76
Bisques 78-80
Fish Soups 82-85
Broths 87-92
Broths and Soups for Invalids 95-101
Accessories 104-108
Sauces
Hot Sauces for Fish 112-116
Hot Sauces for Roasts, Steaks, Cutlets, etc. 118-124
Hot Sauces for Fowls, Ducks, Rabbits, etc. 126-130
Hot Sauces for Game, etc. 132-135
Cold Sauces 137-141
INDEX 143-146
General Remarks on Stock
Stock is the basis of all soups, except those which the French call
_potages maigres_, which have no meat in them. For clear soups the
stock is a good consommé, which must be made absolutely clear, and
without any fat. For thick white soups, chicken or veal stock is used.
For brown thick soups, a dark stock. For purées, white or brown stock,
according to their colour.
Stock will keep for several days--in winter for a week.
A tea-spoonful of Liebig’s Extract of Meat will greatly improve the
flavour of a poor stock.
_Utensils._--Of special utensils for making soup, porcelain-lined
sauce-pans are the most satisfactory, and should always be used if
possible. There is nothing so good or clean as the large French _pot au
feu_, which can be bought in Soho. Earthenware sauce-pans are also good.
It saves trouble when straining soup to have a large deep bowl or jar,
and a colander or wire sieve which fits perfectly into it.
Wooden or silver spoons should be used.
_The fire._--In making stock it is most important to have a steady
fire, which need not be interfered with, so that an even temperature
may be kept. Stock should be allowed to come slowly to the boil, and
then be set back to simmer so gently that bubbles rise from one side
only of the pot.
_To prepare fresh meat for stock._--Look over the meat carefully. Cut
away any part which is in the slightest degree tainted. Wipe the meat
over with a clean cloth that has been dipped in cold water and wrung
out. Cut the meat off the bones. Cut it into small pieces. Break the
bones. If there is any marrow, take it out and spread it on the bottom
of the pot that is to be used.
_Vegetables._--In hot weather it is better to make stock without
vegetables, as they often turn it sour.
See that all vegetables used are perfectly clean. Cut them in two or
three pieces if to be used for flavouring stock. If they are to be
served with the soup, cut them regularly and carefully to the size
required, and do not cook them in the soup for more than half-an-hour,
or their flavour will be impaired.
Vegetables should be added in the proportion of about one carrot, one
onion (or leek), half a turnip, a piece of celery, to every quart of
stock. In the onion can be stuck a clove.
_Herbs._--To flavour stock with herbs, it is best to use a _bouquet_
(_i.e._ a small bunch of mixed herbs, a sprig or leaf each of sage,
thyme, marjoram bay and parsley). This can be easily taken out of
the soups before serving. If ground herbs are used, add about a
tea-spoonful of mixed herbs to every quart of stock.
_Seasoning._--It is not necessary to season the original stock. In
making it into different soups, the seasoning is of course a matter
of taste; but, roughly speaking, to each quart may be put one small
tea-spoonful of salt, two pepper-corns, or half a salt-spoon of ground
pepper, and one clove.
_To remove fat from stock._--Every particle of fat must be removed from
the stock from which clear soups are to be made. With stock which is
to be thickened it is not so necessary to be particular, as the flour
used for the purpose will absorb a good deal of fat. With broths, which
should be particularly nourishing, it is merely a matter of taste how
much fat is removed.
To remove fat from stock it is best to let it first become quite cold.
The fat will then become quite solid, and can easily be removed with
a knife. To remove the small particles which may still be left, dip a
cloth in hot water, wring it out, and pass it over the stock. It will
absorb all the fat.
If there is not time to allow the stock to cool first, a great deal of
fat can be absorbed by tissue paper, which should be laid over it. Or
it can be strained two or three times through cloths which have been
put in very cold water and wrung out.
_To clarify stock for clear soups._--The addition of a little cold
water to boiling stock will cause the scum to rise quickly. This can
be done several times, and if thoroughly strained the stock should be
clear.
To clarify soup more effectually, although the flavour is not improved
by doing so, the white and shell of an egg are used. To every quart of
stock (and it must be cold) add the white and broken shell of an egg.
Beat together. Put in the pot, stir continually until hot. Then let it
boil, untouched, for about ten minutes. Set back on the oven, throw in
half a cup of cold water, and allow it to stand for ten minutes. Place
a colander over the bowl, and when you are ready to strain the soup,
put over the colander a napkin which has been dipped in very hot water
and then wrung out. Let it drain through slowly, without any pressure,
shifting the napkin gently if any part becomes clogged.
_Straining._--It is well, as I have said, to have a large, deep bowl,
with a colander or strainer that fits tightly into it. Put a napkin or
muslin over the colander, and take the soup out of the sauce-pan with
a cup or ladle. Let it drain about a quarter of an hour without any
pressure.
The napkins and muslin used for straining may be old, but must be fine
and absolutely clean and sweet.
Stocks
PAGE
Brown Soup Stock 7
Common Stock 7
Clear Brown Stock 8
Consommé 9
Chicken Stock 9
Veal Stock 10
Economical Stock 10
Common Stock
1 lb. shin of beef
1 quart cold water
Two or three vegetables
Cut the meat up into small pieces. Put it in a sauce-pan, and add the
water. Allow it to stand for half-an-hour. Then put it on the fire. Let
it come to the boil slowly. Simmer for two hours. Strain.
Brown Soup Stock
3 lbs. shin of beef
1 lb. bones
3 quarts cold water
2 carrots, 1 turnip
2 stalks of celery
3 onions
3 cloves
Bouquet of herbs
Cut the meat into small pieces. Break the bones. Put three ounces of
butter in a sauce-pan. When melted, add to it one-third of the meat and
the onions sliced. Stew gently until a rich brown. Put with the rest of
the meat, bones, etc., in a sauce-pan. Cover with water. Bring to the
boil. Simmer four hours. Strain.
Clear Brown Stock
2 lbs. shin of beef
1 lb. knuckle of veal
The carcase and bones of a fowl
3 pints of water
1 carrot
1 onion with a clove stuck in it
1 stick of celery
1 piece of parsley
A small bouquet of herbs
Put the bones at the bottom of a sauce-pan. Place the meat, which
should be cut up in small pieces, upon them. Cover with cold water.
Leave the sauce-pan uncovered. Bring to the boil very slowly. When it
boils throw in a half cup of cold water. (This will cause the scum
to rise.) Skim. Bring to the boil again. Throw in a little more cold
water. Skim. Bring to the boil. Add the vegetables. Set back on the
fire, and allow it to simmer gently for three or four hours.
Strain through a napkin into a bowl and allow it to cool.
If required the soup can be further clarified (p. 4).
Consommé
1 lb. shin of beef
1 lb. veal
The bones and carcases of fowls or game
2 quarts of stock
Vegetables
The white of an egg
Cut away all fat from the meat. Chop it up finely. Put the white of
an egg in a basin. Add to it the chopped meat. Mix them well together
with a silver spoon. Stir in a glass of cold water. Put the meat into a
large sauce-pan. Add vegetables, the bones and carcases of birds. Cover
with two quarts of good stock. Bring to the boil, stirring occasionally
to prevent the meat from sticking to the sauce-pan.
When it boils, set back to simmer gently for three hours. Dip a napkin
in hot water, wring it out, and strain the stock through it into a
basin.
Chicken Stock
1 old fowl
1 quart water
1 carrot
1 stick of celery
1 small onion
Put the fowl and vegetables into a stew-pan, adding the bones or
carcase of another fowl if possible. Cover with cold water, or weak
clear stock. Let it boil up slowly and simmer for three hours. Skim.
Pass the stock through a napkin, and set aside to cool.
Veal Stock
1 lb. knuckle of veal
Chicken bones or carcases
1 quart of water
Vegetables
1 blade of mace
1 clove
Cut up the veal. Break the bones. Add vegetables and spice. Cover with
the water. Bring slowly to the boil. Simmer for two or three hours.
Strain.
Economical Stock for thick Soups, Purées, etc.
An excellent although not very clear stock can be made from odds and
ends of cooked meat and bones. For this purpose there should be an
enamelled pot with a lightly fitting lid, and it should practically be
kept in use continually.
Spread the bottom of the pot with butter, or marrow. Pack in pieces of
meat, bone, gristle, the carcases of birds, two or three vegetables cut
up in small pieces, two cloves, and a bouquet of herbs.
Cover the meat, etc., with cold water. Put on the lid. Heat slowly, and
when it boils set back to simmer for four or five hours.
In preparing meat for this stock, look it over carefully; reject any
piece which is not perfectly good, also all stuffing, skin, smoked or
burnt pieces. A little beef fat can always be retained, but mutton fat
should not be used as it is rank in flavour. Scrape the meat off the
bones, and break the bones in small pieces.
A slice or two of lean ham, the gravy saved from any kind of roast, a
little fresh meat finely chopped will greatly improve this stock.
General Remarks on Soups
_Utensils and Fire._--The remarks on pages 1 and 2 concerning the
utensils and fire for making stock, apply also to the preparation of
soups from stock.
_To thicken soups with flour only._--Mix flour or cornflour with a
little cold water, milk or stock until perfectly smooth. Add more
water or milk. Strain. Pour slowly into the soup, which should be
nearly boiling. Let it come to a boil. Continue boiling for ten
minutes (stirring all the time), or it will taste of flour. About one
table-spoon of flour should be used to thicken each quart of stock.
_To thicken soups with butter and flour (roux)._--Melt some butter.
Skim it till quite clear. Pour it into an earthenware sauce-pan, and
add to it its weight in flour. Work with a wooden spoon until perfectly
smooth. Stir over a fire for a few minutes. Then put it in a moderate
oven. Stir occasionally, and be very particular that it does not colour
or burn. It should be left in the oven from thirty to forty-five
minutes. This thickening, which is called white roux, is used for
white soups. Brown roux for brown soups is made in the same way, but
is left in the oven until slightly coloured. It will keep for some time.
When adding roux to soups it is best first to melt it in a small
sauce-pan, to thin it with a little hot stock, and then to add it
gradually to the soups.
If the roux has not been prepared beforehand, the quantity required can
be made in a short time by cooking the flour and butter together in a
sauce-pan for five minutes for white roux or longer for brown roux. It
should be stirred all the time.
A heaping table-spoon (or more) of roux should be added to every quart
of soup to be thickened.
_Cornflour and roux._--The advantage of roux over cornflour is that the
flour used in preparing the roux having been already cooked, it is not
necessary to continue boiling the soups to which it is added, whereas
cornflour being raw, the soups thickened by it must be boiled for some
little time.
_To colour soups._--The colour of soups can be deepened by using
caramel colouring, or glaze (see next page) (which will also add to
their flavour).
_Caramel colouring._--Put half a pound of brown or white sugar in
an iron sauce-pan, with a table-spoonful of water. Stir over a very
gentle fire until it turns a deep, rich brown colour. Add half a pint
of boiling water. Let it simmer very gently for twenty minutes. Allow
it to get cold. Put it into bottles and cork. This makes an excellent
and tasteless colouring, but it must be carefully made. The rich brown
colour comes from slow and gentle cooking. If it is burnt and black it
is useless.
Add to the soup a few minutes only before serving.
_Glaze._--Glaze is made by boiling down good stock until it is of a
very thick and gluey consistency. Put a quart of rich stock into a
sauce-pan over a good fire. Leave it uncovered, and boil it until it is
reduced to half a pint. Let it cool. Put it in a jar or bottle. Cover
closely, and keep in a cool place. This will keep for two or three
weeks.
_Adding vegetables and meat to soups._--Whenever vegetables or meats
have to be passed through a sieve or tammy, it will be found easier to
do so if the pulp is kept continually well moistened with stock or milk
(according to the soup which is being made).
_Wine and catsup._--Wine and catsup should always be added as late as
possible, as they lose in flavour by being boiled.
Clear Soups
PAGE
Brunoise 16
Consommé with poached eggs 16
Croûte au pot 17
” ” gratinée 18
Game Soup 18
Imperial Soup 19
Julienne 20
Macaroni 20
Spring Soup 21
Vermicelli 22
Clear Soups with quenelles 22
Brunoise
3 pints strong consommé
1 carrot
1 turnip
1 leek
1 onion
1 stick of celery
1 small tea-cupful freshly cooked peas
” ” ” ” asparagus points
” ” ” ” French beans
Cut the carrot, turnip, leek, onion and celery into small dice-shaped
pieces, using the red outer part of the carrot only. Fry them in butter
until a light brown. Add them to the consommé, and after it has come to
the boil, simmer gently until the vegetables are perfectly tender. Skim
from time to time. Season. Add the cooked peas, beans and asparagus
points. The beans should be cut into diamond-shaped pieces.
Consommé with poached eggs
6 eggs
1 quart consommé
Break the eggs carefully into boiling water, taking care that they do
not run into each other. Cook until firmly set, but not hard. Take
them out, put them on a dish, and trim neatly. Put them in a soup
tureen and gently pour over them the hot consommé. Finely chopped and
cooked vegetables may be added to the consommé.
Croûte au pot
1 quart clear brown stock
¹⁄₄ of a white cabbage
1 carrot
¹⁄₂ a turnip
A little celery
2 thin slices of bread
Cut the celery, carrot and turnip into small equal pieces. Cut up the
heart of the cabbage, and cook separately in salted water. Put the
vegetables in a sauce-pan. Pour the stock over them. Simmer until
tender. Add the cabbage. Season. Simmer for a few minutes. Toast the
bread. Cut it into several pieces. Put them in a soup tureen. Pour the
vegetables and stock over them. Serve. Grated parmesan can be served
with this soup.
Croûte au pot gratinée
1 quart clear brown stock
1 tea-cup of mixed cooked vegetables cut in small pieces
4 small dinner rolls
Take out the crumb from the inside of three or four rolls. Put the
crusts in an earthenware sauce-pan, and cover with a little clear brown
stock. Let them simmer over a gentle fire until they have absorbed all
the stock. Then put them in the oven until they are crisp, being very
careful that they do not burn. Place them in a soup tureen with the
cooked vegetables. Pour the well-seasoned boiling stock over them.
Game Soup
1 calf’s foot
1 or 2 birds (game), or the carcases and bones of several
1 slice lean ham
2 carrots
1 onion
1 piece of celery
1 sprig parsley
1 bay leaf
Thyme
2 cloves
1 blade of mace
2 quarts of water
1 glass of sherry
Clean and cut up the calf’s foot. Put in a stew-pan with one or two
whole birds (game), or the carcases and bones of several, a small
piece of lean ham, the vegetables, herbs, etc. Cover with 2 quarts of
water. Bring to the boil. Skim. Simmer for three hours. Season. Strain.
When cold clarify with white of egg (p. 4). Before serving add a glass
of sherry, and two dozen small quenelles of game (p. 105).
Imperial Soup
1 quart clear consommé
_For Custard_
1 gill consommé
4 yolks of eggs
Nutmeg
Salt
Beat the yolks in a basin. Add a little salt and nutmeg. Stir in the
consommé. Strain through a fine hair sieve into a shallow plain mould.
Put it into a pan of boiling water, and steam until it sets. Turn out
carefully on to a wet napkin. Cut into fancy or square shapes. Half of
the mixture can, if wished, be coloured green with spinach colouring
(p. 104). Place the custards carefully in a tureen, and pour the hot
consommé over them.
Julienne
2 large carrots
1 turnip
1 piece of celery
1 small onion
¹⁄₄ white cabbage
1 lettuce
A little sorrel
1 quart consommé
2 ozs. butter
Cut all the vegetables into thin shreds of equal length (about one
inch). Use the red outer part of the carrots only, and the hearts of
the lettuce and cabbage. Wash the sorrel and cabbage separately, and
set aside. Put two ounces of butter and a salt-spoon of powdered sugar
in a sauce-pan, add to it all the vegetables except the cabbage and
sorrel. Let them turn a fine yellow, but be careful not to burn. Add
the consommé. Bring to the boil. Drain. Season. Set back to simmer
until the vegetables are tender. Then add the cabbage and sorrel, a
leaf of tarragon and chervil. Simmer another ten minutes and serve.
Macaroni Soup
1 quart stock
¹⁄₂ pint macaroni
Cook the macaroni in boiling salted water half-an-hour. Drain. Pour
cold water through the macaroni to prevent its sticking together. Put
the sticks on a board and cut it, either very finely to make rings, or
in half-inch pieces. Bring stock to the boil. Add the macaroni. Season.
Spring Soup
2 carrots
1 turnip
¹⁄₂ a head of celery
10 small onions
1 tea-cup of cauliflower cut into little branches
Heart of a small white cabbage-lettuce
A small handful of sorrel
A leaf of chervil and of tarragon
¹⁄₄ pint peas
¹⁄₄ pint asparagus points
¹⁄₄ pint croûtons
1 quart consommé
Cut the carrots and turnip into small rounds or olive-shaped pieces.
Add them, with the chopped up celery, whole onions and cauliflower, to
a quart of consommé or chicken stock. Bring it to the boil. Simmer for
half-an-hour. Stamp the sorrel and lettuce into small round pieces. Add
them, with a leaf of chervil and of tarragon and a tea-spoon of sugar,
to the soup. When all the vegetables are tender add a quarter of a pint
of young peas and the same quantity of asparagus heads both freshly
cooked. Serve with croûtons (see p. 103).
Vermicelli
¹⁄₄ lb. vermicelli
1 quart consommé
Break up the vermicelli in small pieces. Put it in cold water. Bring it
to the boil, and boil it for four minutes. Drain it. Pour cold water
through it. Put it in a sauce-pan with the consommé, which should be
very clear, strong and well seasoned. Let it boil up. Skim. Simmer
until the vermicelli is tender.
Serve with grated parmesan in a separate dish.
Other Clear Soups
Clear soups can also be served with Italian paste, forcemeat balls,
quenelles, rice, etc. For recipes for these see pages 103-108.
Thick Soups
PAGE
Brown Soup 24
Cream of Pearl Barley 25
Cream of Rice 25
Giblet Soup 26
Hare Soup 27
Left-over Soup 28
Mock-Turtle 29
Mulligatawny 30
Ox-tail 31
Venison Soup 33
Brown Soup
The water in which a joint of mutton has been boiled
1 carrot
1 onion
1 turnip
1 head of celery
¹⁄₂ pint cooked young peas
Brown roux
1 ounce of butter
1 tea-spoonful Liebig’s Extract of Meat
1 lump sugar
Boil down the water to one quart. Allow it to cool. Remove the fat
carefully. Cut the vegetables into small equal pieces. Fry them a rich
brown in one ounce of butter. Put the stock on the fire again. Add
the vegetables and sugar. Simmer until they are tender. Add the peas.
Simmer for quarter of an hour. Thicken with brown roux (see p. 12).
Simmer another fifteen minutes. A few minutes before serving add a
little caramel colouring (see p. 13) and the Liebig’s Extract.
Cream of Pearl Barley
¹⁄₂ lb. pearl barley
1 quart chicken stock
1 gill cream
Wash the barley thoroughly. Throw it into boiling water and let it
boil quickly for ten minutes. Drain it. Pour cold water through it to
separate the barley. Put the stock in a sauce-pan. Add the barley to
it. Simmer for four hours--or until the barley is very tender. Set
aside a little of the barley to add whole to the stock. Put the rest
through a tammy. Add it to the stock with the whole barley. Season.
Scald a gill of cream. Add to the soup.
If preferred the barley may be cooked separately in water.
Cream of Rice
¹⁄₄ lb. Carolina rice
1 quart chicken stock
1 gill cream
1 tea-spoon of butter
Wash the rice and boil it several minutes in water. Drain. Add it to
the stock. Simmer until the rice is tender. Rub through a tammy. Just
before serving mix with the soup a gill of cream and a tea-spoonful of
butter.
A little whole rice which has been boiled in chicken broth can be
added to the soup, or it can be served with a dozen small quenelles of
chicken (see p. 105).
Giblet Soup
1 set of giblets
1 whole onion
1 chopped onion
Grated rind of the third of a lemon
A few drops of lemon juice
1 oz. butter
1 table-spoon flour
1 glass white wine
Small bouquet of herbs
2 cloves
1 quart of stock
Scald and cut in pieces a set of giblets. Put in a sauce-pan with
a quart of good stock, a whole onion stuck with two cloves and the
lemon rind. Simmer until the giblets are very tender. Strain off the
stock. Make a brown roux of the butter and flour (see p. 12). Add it
to the stock with the herbs and an onion chopped fine. Boil hard for
ten minutes. Strain through a fine sieve. Add a glass of white wine.
Season with cayenne, salt, and a few drops of lemon juice.
Hare Soup
A large fresh hare
2 onions
1 carrot
2 pieces of celery
Bouquet of herbs
4 cloves
4 pepper-corns
Cayenne
1 glass of port
2 quarts of cold water
Cut a perfectly fresh hare into pieces, being careful to save all the
blood. Let the pieces soak in two quarts of cold water in a stew-pan
for an hour. Add the blood, and set on the fire. Bring to the boil,
stirring and skimming frequently. Add the vegetables, herbs, spices
and pepper-corns. Simmer gently for two or three hours. Strain off the
liquid. Cut the meat from the bones. Set aside some of the best to
be cut into small pieces. Pound the rest in a mortar and put through
a tammy (see p. 60). Return to the sauce-pan with the stock. When it
boils season highly, add a glass of port wine, and the small pieces of
hare which have been reserved. Serve. Force-meat balls (see p. 104) may
be added also.
Left-over Soup
Bones and trimmings of a 6 lb. roast of beef
1 mutton chop
¹⁄₂ lb. fresh gravy beef
2 quarts cold water
2 cloves
2 pepper-corns
1 baked apple
¹⁄₂ cup of cold boiled onions
2 pieces of celery
Bouquet of herbs
1 cup cooked tomato, or 1 cup boiled macaroni
Cut up the meat. Break the bones. Put in a stew-pan with the cold
water, vegetables, spices and apple. Bring to the boil. Simmer for two
or three hours. Strain. Set aside to cool. Remove fat. When required
heat to boiling point. Season. Add the tomato or macaroni.
Mock-Turtle
1 calf’s head
1 old fowl (partly roasted)
1 knuckle of veal
3 slices raw ham
2 quarts of stock
Carrots, celery, green onions
¹⁄₂ lb. mushrooms
4 shallots
A large bouquet of parsley, thyme, bay-leaf, sweet basil and marjoram
8 cloves
2 blades of mace
¹⁄₂ pint sherry
Tea-spoonful lemon juice
White roux
Scald a calf’s head. Bone it. (Do this by making a sharp incision down
to the bone from the back of the head to the nose and peeling back the
flesh on each side with a knife.) Put the head in a sauce-pan. Cover it
with cold water. Boil it for quarter of an hour, skimming from time to
time. Then take it out and put it in a basin full of cold water.
Butter the bottom of a large stock-pot. Put in it an old fowl partly
roasted (of which the breast is kept back for forcemeat balls), a
knuckle of veal, the ham, and two quarts of good stock. Boil quickly
until the stock is reduced to one pint. Set back to simmer gently for
half-an-hour. Fill up the stock-pot with water.
Take the head out of the water. Pare away any rough parts in the mouth.
Put in the stock-pot. Bring to the boil. Skim thoroughly. Add the
vegetables, spices and bouquet. Simmer gently until the head is tender.
Remove the head. Strain the broth. When the meat is cool cut it up into
small squares (reserving a little for forcemeat balls).
Thicken the stock with light-coloured roux (p. 12). Let it boil up.
Skim off the butter that comes to the surface. Add half a pint of
sherry. Season with cayenne. Add a tea-spoonful of lemon juice, and
the pieces of calf’s head. Boil ten minutes. Add two or three dozen
forcemeat balls (see p. 104).
Mulligatawny
2 chickens (or 2 rabbits)
2 quarts veal stock
2 carrots
4 onions
1 head of celery and
2 pieces of celery
A bouquet of herbs and parsley
2 table-spoons flour
1 table-spoon curry powder
1 ” ” paste
¹⁄₂ lb. Patna rice
¹⁄₄ lb. butter
Cut up the chickens or rabbits into small pieces. Put them in a
sauce-pan with a quart of good veal stock and a carrot, turnip, apple,
parsley, and a bouquet of herbs. Bring to the boil and simmer gently
until the meat is tender, stirring from time to time. Strain off the
stock. Cut the meat from the bones, and set aside to cool.
Fry three onions, a carrot, and a head of celery (all finely sliced)
very slowly in a quarter of a pound of butter until they are a rich
golden brown. Add two table-spoons of flour. Stir in till smooth. Add
a table-spoon of curry powder, and the same quantity of curry paste.
Season with cayenne and salt. Add the vegetables to the stock, and add
more veal stock if required. Let it boil up. Skim. Simmer half-an-hour
very gently. Put through a tammy. Pour over the meat of the chickens or
rabbits (which should be cut into neat pieces). Heat gently, and simmer
for another ten minutes. If desired half a pint of scalded cream can be
added just before serving. Serve with plain boiled Patna rice (see p.
106).
Ox-tail Soup
1 ox tail
2 quarts water or stock
1 onion
2 carrots
2 ozs. butter
1 head of celery
2 cloves
2 pepper-corns
Blade of mace
A lump of sugar
¹⁄₂ a pint of mixed parboiled vegetables
Wash the ox tail and cut it up into joints. Lay these in cold water
for two hours. Slice finely a large onion and two carrots. Melt two
ounces of butter in a sauce-pan and fry the onion and carrots in it.
When they are slightly browned add the ox tail. Brown it a little. Put
the vegetables and ox tail in a stock-pot. Add the celery finely cut
up. Cover with two quarts of water or beef stock. Add the spice and
seasoning. Bring to the boil. Skim thoroughly. Simmer until the meat
separates from the bone and the gristle is quite soft. Strain through a
napkin.
Cut the best of the meat into pieces. Put them into a stew-pan. Add the
strained stock, half a pint of mixed parboiled vegetables cut in small
rounds, or olive-shaped, a lump of sugar and more pepper if required.
Heat and simmer until vegetables are tender.
The vegetables should be shaped with a vegetable cutter, and are best
parboiled in a little stock.
Ox-tail soup may be thickened by a purée of carrots, turnips, peas or
lentils. The purée is made by boiling whichever vegetable is required
until very tender, and pressing it through a sieve or tammy. Add it to
the strained stock and mix well.
Venison Soup
1¹⁄₂ lbs. venison
¹⁄₂ lb. salt pork or raw ham
1 onion
¹⁄₂ a head of celery
1 blade of mace
6 pepper-corns
Brown roux
1 table-spoon Worcester sauce
1 ” Mushroom ketchup
1 glass Madeira or brown sherry
Cut up the meat and vegetables. Put them in a stew-pan. Add just enough
water to cover them. Stew them slowly, with the lid on, for an hour.
Add nearly a quart of boiling water, the mace and pepper-corns. Simmer
for two hours. Strain. Season. Thicken with brown roux (one table-spoon
butter, one table-spoon flour, see p. 12). Add the Worcester sauce,
mushroom ketchup, and wine.
Thickened Vegetable Soups made with Stock
PAGE
Artichoke Soup 35
Asparagus Soup 35
Cauliflower Soup 36
Celery Soup 36
Chestnut Soup 37
Green Pea Soup 37
Mushroom Soup 38
Polish Soup 39
Tomato Soup 39
Artichoke Soup
4 artichokes
2 ozs. butter
1 quart white stock
1 cup cream or milk
1 tea-spoon sugar
Wash and peel the artichokes. Cut them in slices. Put the butter in
a sauce-pan. Melt it. Add the artichokes. Allow them to simmer until
tender, but be careful not to let them brown. Add the boiling stock and
a tea-spoon of sugar. Simmer for half-an-hour. Rub through a tammy.
Heat again. Season. At the last minute add a cup of boiling cream or
milk.
Asparagus Soup
1 lb. veal
1 quart water
1 large bundle of asparagus
1 table-spoon flour
1 gill of cream
Cut off the stalks of the asparagus. Put them in a stew-pan with the
veal (which should be cut up) and water. Bring to the boil. Skim.
Simmer for three hours. Strain off the broth. Add the asparagus
heads. Season. Boil for twenty minutes. Thicken with a table-spoon of
cornflour rubbed smooth in a gill of cream. Boil for ten minutes. Serve
with croûtons (see p. 103).
Cauliflower Soup
1 quart white stock
1 table-spoon chopped onion
1 pint milk or cream
1 boiled cauliflower
Boil the milk or cream with the onion. Heat the stock. Rub half of the
cauliflower through a sieve. Add it to the stock. Add the boiling milk
(which has been strained off the onions). Season. Add table-spoonful
butter in small pieces, and the rest of the cauliflower cut in small
branches.
If wished the soup can be slightly thickened with a table-spoon of
white roux. (See p. 12).
Celery Soup
1 quart white stock
4 heads of celery
2 table-spoons white roux
1 gill cream
Put three heads of celery into the stock, and boil until very tender.
Strain off the soup, and return to the sauce-pan. Add the fourth head
of celery finely cut. Simmer till tender. Thicken with the white roux.
Scald a gill of cream and add to the soup. Season and serve.
Chestnut Soup
2 lbs. chestnuts
1 pint consommé
1 pint cream
Boil the chestnuts until tender. Remove shells and peel them whole.
Save ten whole, rub all the rest through a fine sieve.
Heat the consommé. Scald the cream. Mix together. Season with salt and
pepper. Add the chestnuts. Stir until well mixed, but do not allow the
soup to boil. Just before serving cut up the ten chestnuts into small
pieces and add to the soup.
Green Pea Soup
1 quart water
1 lb. shin of beef
1 quart young green peas
1 table-spoon flour
1 sprig of mint
Wash and boil the empty pea-pods, with a piece of mint, in a quart
of salted water for an hour. Skim. Strain off the pods. Add them to
the meat (cut in small pieces) in a sauce-pan. Simmer gently for an
hour-and-a-half. Strain off the stock. Season. Add the shelled peas to
it. Boil gently for twenty minutes. Add the flour mixed smooth with a
little of the stock, and the parsley. Boil for ten minutes.
Mushroom Soup
1 lb. fresh small mushrooms
1 pint rich milk or cream
1 pint consommé
1 table-spoon flour
1 table-spoon butter
Set aside twelve mushrooms. Cut them in half. Cook separately. Chop the
rest into small pieces and fry in the butter, adding a table-spoonful
of flour and mixing until perfectly smooth. Put in a stew-pan and add
the scalded milk or cream, and the boiling consommé. Simmer for quarter
of an hour. Season. Rub through a sieve. Strain through muslin. Heat
again very gently. Add the cooked mushrooms, and do not allow it to
boil.
Polish Soup
1 beet-root
2 onions
1 quart brown stock
1 glass red wine
1 cup thick cream
Cut up the beet-root and onions in small pieces. Put them in a
sauce-pan, and pour over them the stock, which should be very
rich and of a good dark colour. Bring to a boil and simmer for an
hour-and-a-half. Put through a tammy. Put back on the fire, add the
wine. Season with salt, pepper and cayenne. Heat well, but do not allow
it to boil. Just before serving add the cream, which should be scalded.
Or the cream may be served separately, in which case it should be cold.
Tomato Soup
1 quart of stock
1 tea-spoonful sugar
¹⁄₂ a tin of tomatoes
1 onion
1 tea-spoonful butter
Slice the onion. Fry it in the butter. Add it to the tomatoes. Heat
them in a sauce-pan, and allow them to simmer for fifteen minutes.
Rub through a sieve. Put to the stock. Season and add a lump of sugar.
Heat. Serve with croûtons.
Vegetable Soups made without Stock
PAGE
Artichoke Soup 42
Carrot Soup 42
Celery Cream 43
Mock Bisque 44
Portuguese Soup 44
Potato Cream 45
Potato Soup 46
Sorrel Soup 46
Summer Soup 47
Tomato Soup 47
Artichoke Soup
4 artichokes
1 pint water
1 pint milk
1 onion
Boil the artichokes in a pint of water. Mash them. Press them through a
sieve, and mix them again with the water in which they were boiled.
Boil an onion in the milk. Remove the onion. Add the milk to the
artichokes. Bring to the boil. Season. Serve with croûtons (see p. 103).
Carrot Soup
3 large carrots
1 onion
1 quart cold water
2 ozs. of butter
¹⁄₂ a pint milk or cream
1 table-spoon flour
1 tea-spoon powdered sugar
Scrape the carrots and slice them finely, rejecting the hard yellow
inside. Put them in a sauce-pan with a quart of cold water. Simmer
gently for three quarters of an hour. Slice the onion, and fry it a
light brown in the butter. Add it to the carrots, and put all through a
fine sieve. Put the purée into a sauce-pan with the water in which the
carrots were cooked. Thicken with the flour. Stir continually. Allow it
to boil for five minutes. Season. Add a tea-spoonful powdered sugar.
Just before serving add half a pint of scalded milk or cream.
Celery Cream
1 head celery
1 pint water
1 pint milk or cream
1 table-spoon chopped onion
2 table-spoons white roux
Wash the celery. Cut it into small pieces. Throw it into one pint
boiling salted water. Boil till very tender. Put through a sieve, and
return to the water in which it was cooked. Boil the milk with the
onion. Strain. Add the milk to the celery. Bring to the boil again.
Stir in the white roux (p. 12). Season. Boil five minutes. Strain into
soup tureen.
Mock Bisque
¹⁄₂ tin of tomatoes
1 quart milk
2 ozs. butter
1 table-spoon white roux
¹⁄₂ salt-spoon carbonate of soda
Stew the tomatoes until very soft. Add the carbonate of soda and sugar.
Put through a fine sieve. Set in a small sauce-pan on the fire to keep
hot. Heat the milk, thicken it with white roux (flour and butter, see
p. 12). Let it boil a few minutes, stirring continually. Season. Add
the tomatoes and serve immediately. (The tomatoes should not be added
until actually ready to serve.)
Portuguese Soup
3 tomatoes
1 Spanish onion
A small bunch of herbs
2 large slices of stale bread
1 oz. grated cheese (parmesan)
1 quart hot water
1 oz. butter
Cut up the tomatoes and onions. Fry a light brown in butter. Put them
in a stew-pan and cover with a quart of hot water. Let it boil, and
then stand aside to simmer for half-an-hour. Strain off the liquid. Rub
the vegetables through a coarse sieve. Return to the fire, season, and
make very hot. Break up the bread and put it in the bottom of a hot
soup tureen. Sprinkle a little of the grated cheese upon it. Pour the
soup over it. Sprinkle the rest of the cheese on the soup.
Potato Cream
1 pint milk
1 gill cream
2 potatoes
1 onion
1 tea-cup cooked French beans
1 dessert-spoonful chopped cooked carrot
1 tea-spoon Liebig’s extract
1 small table-spoon white roux
Boil the potatoes and onion. Put them through a sieve. Add them to the
milk, which should be boiling. Add the white roux (see p. 12), the
Liebig (diluted with a little water) and seasoning. Stir for a minute
or two. Cut the French beans into small pieces. Add them and the very
finely chopped carrot to the soup. Stir in the scalded cream.
Potato Soup
3 potatoes
1 quart milk
1 table-spoon chopped onion
A little celery or ¹⁄₂ a tea-spoon celery salt
1 table-spoon white roux
1 table-spoon chopped parsley
Peel the potatoes. Soak them in cold water for half-an-hour. Cook them
in boiling water until soft. Drain off the water. Put the potatoes
through a sieve. Boil the milk with the onion and celery (or celery
salt). Strain. Add to the potatoes. Stir in the white roux (see p. 12).
Season. Boil for five minutes. Add the parsley.
Sorrel Soup
1 handful of sorrel
1 pint of water
1 tea-cup cream or milk
Bread
Wash and prepare a handful of sorrel. Put it in a sauce-pan with the
butter and a pint of water. Season. Boil gently for a quarter of an
hour. Add a little cream or milk. Put several very thin slices of bread
in the soup tureen, and pour the soup over them.
Rice or tapioca can be added to the soup.
Summer Soup
1 cucumber
2 cabbage lettuces
1 onion
Small handful of spinach
A piece of mint
A pint of shelled peas
2 ozs. butter
A slice of ham
Wash the lettuces and cut them up. Cut up the cucumber and onion.
Put them with half a pint of peas, the mint, ham and butter into a
stew-pan. Cover with a little more than a quart of cold water. Bring to
a boil, and then simmer gently for three hours. Strain off the liquid.
Pass the vegetables through a sieve. Add to the liquid. Set on the fire
again. Season. Add half a pint of green peas which have already been
boiled.
Tomato Soup
1 tin of tomatoes
1 pint boiling water
1 table-spoon sugar
4 cloves
2 pepper-corns
1 table-spoon butter
1 ” flour
1 ” chopped onion
1 ” ” parsley
Put the tomatoes, water, sugar, cloves and pepper-corns in a
porcelain-lined sauce-pot. Simmer for half-an-hour. Fry the onions
and parsley in the butter, being careful not to burn. Add the flour to
them, mix smooth. Add them to the tomatoes. Simmer for ten minutes.
Strain through a fine sieve. Season. Serve with rice (see p. 106) or
croûtons (see p. 103).
Soups thickened with a Liaison of Cream and Yolk of Egg
PAGE
Brown Bread Soup 51
Cauliflower Cream 51
Cream of Rice 52
Cucumber Soup 52
Dutch Soup 53
Flemish Soup 53
Friar’s Chicken 54
Italian Macaroni Soup--I 54
Macaroni Soup--II 55
Russian Soup 56
Turkish Soup 56
Water-cress Soup 57
White Chicken Soup 57
White Veal Soup 58
In thickening soups with a liaison of cream (or milk) and yolk of egg,
the eggs must first be well beaten, then the cream should be added
to them and thoroughly mixed. When this is done take a tea-cup of
hot stock and mix it slowly with the liaison. Strain it all through
a fine sieve or muslin, and add gradually to the soup, which must on
no account be allowed to boil after the liaison is added, although it
should be stirred over a gentle fire until it thickens.
In thickening soup with eggs only, beat the required number of eggs,
add a little warm stock to them. Strain, and add gradually to the soup.
Brown Bread Soup
1 quart stock
4 or 5 small slices of brown bread
¹⁄₂ head of celery
1 carrot
4 table-spoons glaze
4 yolks of eggs
1 gill sour cream
Toast the brown bread. Add it with the sliced celery and carrot to a
rich stock from which all the fat has not been removed. Bring to a
boil. Simmer for an hour. Add four table-spoons glaze. Put all through
a sieve. Heat gently. Add the liaison of eggs and cream. Serve with
croûtons made of brown bread (see p. 103).
This soup can be made with German black bread.
Cauliflower Cream
1 quart chicken stock
1 cup cooked cauliflower
2 yolks of eggs
¹⁄₂ pint cream
1 cup button mushrooms
Put the cauliflower through a fine sieve. Add it to the boiling stock.
Season. Add the liaison of cream and egg.
Place the cooked mushrooms at the bottom of a soup tureen. Pour the
soup over them.
Cream of Rice with Parmesan
¹⁄₄ lb. Carolina rice
1 quart chicken stock
1 gill cream
¹⁄₂ oz. Parmesan
2 yolks of eggs
Wash the rice. Boil it for ten minutes in water. Drain. Add to the
stock. Simmer until the rice is tender. Put through a fine sieve. Add
to the stock. Mix in the cheese. Add the liaison of cream and eggs (see
p. 50).
Quenelles of chicken (see p. 105) can be added if desired, or rice
balls (see p. 107).
Cucumber Soup
1 cucumber
1¹⁄₂ pints white stock
1 oz. butter
1 onion
Small handful of sorrel
A little chervil
1 gill of cream
2 eggs
Cut the cucumber into thin slices. Sprinkle salt over them. Leave them
for an hour. Drain. Put them in a sauce-pan with the butter, the onion,
chervil and sorrel finely minced. Add the stock. Season. Simmer for
twenty minutes. Add the liaison of cream and eggs and serve.
Dutch Soup
2 carrots
2 turnips
1 cucumber
1 quart chicken or veal broth
Yolks of 3 eggs
1 gill of cream
Tea-spoonful butter
1 gill cooked French beans
1 gill cooked young peas
Cut the carrots, turnips and cucumber into olive-shaped pieces. Blanch
for three minutes in boiling water. Add to the stock, and simmer until
the vegetables are tender. Take off the fire. Season. Add the yolks and
cream and butter (in small pieces). Stir over the fire until the soup
thickens.
Put the freshly cooked peas and beans (cut into dice) into the soup
tureen. Pour the soup over them.
Flemish Soup
1 quart veal stock
1 handful spinach and sorrel
¹⁄₂ pint cream
3 yolks of eggs
Boil the chopped spinach and sorrel in the stock until tender.
Season. Just before serving add the liaison of eggs and cream. Stir
continually until it thickens. Serve with croûtons (p. 103).
Friar’s Chicken
1 quart veal stock
1 chicken
3 yolks of eggs
1 pint cream or milk
2 table-spoons chopped parsley
Cut the chicken into joints. Scald and skin them. Add them to the
stock. Season. Bring to the boil. Simmer gently for an hour. Skim from
time to time. Strain. Add the liaison of egg and cream, and the parsley.
Italian Macaroni Soup--I
5 ozs. macaroni
2 ozs. butter
1 quart white stock
¹⁄₂ pint cream or milk
3 yolks of eggs
1 oz. grated Parmesan
Cut the macaroni in boiling water, adding butter, salt and pepper. Boil
for half-an-hour. Drain. Cut in half-inch lengths.
Heat the white stock. Add the macaroni to it. Simmer another half-hour.
Add liaison of eggs and cream (or milk) and the grated cheese.
Macaroni Soup--II
¹⁄₂ lb. macaroni
A little more than 1 quart chicken stock
About 30 forcemeat balls
4 yolks of eggs
1 gill of cream
Boil the macaroni for ten minutes in cold water. Drain it. Cut it in
finger-lengths. Cook it again for fifteen minutes in a little clear
chicken stock. In a hot dish lay first a layer of macaroni, then one
of small chicken forcemeat balls (see p. 104), then another layer of
macaroni, etc.
Heat a quart of clear chicken stock to boiling point. Add a liaison of
the yolks of four eggs and a gill of cream. Strain. Serve in a soup
tureen with the dish of macaroni and forcemeat balls.
Russian Soup
2 kidneys
2 small onions
¹⁄₄ lb. mushrooms
1 dozen small olives
3 gherkins
1 quart strong stock
Yolks of two eggs
Melt the butter and fry the kidneys and onions (finely cut up) in it
very gently for five minutes. Cook the mushrooms separately. Put the
kidneys, onions, mushrooms, olives and gherkins (finely sliced) in a
hot soup tureen. Pour over them a quart of rich, dark, well-seasoned
brown stock, which has been thickened with the yolks of two eggs.
Turkish Soup
1 quart of veal or beef stock
¹⁄₂ a tea-cup of rice
2 yolks of eggs
1 table-spoon cream
Boil the rice and stock together until the rice is tender. Press
through a sieve. Season. Add the yolks and cream. Serve with croûtons.
Water-cress Soup
3 potatoes
1 handful chopped water-cress
1 quart stock (or water)
2 yolks of eggs
1 table-spoon cream
1 oz. butter
1 tea-spoon white roux
Peel and wash the potatoes. Cook them in a little stock. When tender
mash them and put through a sieve. Add them to the rest of the stock.
Put back on the fire. Heat gently. Add a tea-spoonful of white roux
(see p. 12). Add the butter in small pieces.
Make a liaison of the eggs and cream. Stir into the soup. Add the
water-cress uncooked. Serve at once, before the water-cress becomes
limp.
White Chicken Soup
The water in which a fowl has been boiled
The carcase and bones of the fowl
1 pint milk or cream
1 table-spoon chopped onion
2 table-spoons ” celery
Yolks of two eggs
1 gill chopped and cooked carrot and green peas
Add the bones and carcase of the fowl, the onion, celery and seasoning
to the water in which a fowl has been boiled. Simmer till reduced to
one quart. Strain and thicken with a white roux of butter and flour. Add
the liaison of cream (or milk) and eggs.
Put the cooked carrot and peas in the soup tureen, and pour the soup
over them.
White Veal Soup
2 lbs. knuckle of veal
1 quart water
1 onion
Half pint of milk or cream
2 yolks of eggs
1 table-spoon butter
1 ” flour
Wipe the veal and cut it into small pieces. Cover with cold water and
heat slowly, skimming constantly. Season with salt, three or four
pepper-corns, and a chopped onion. Simmer for three hours until reduced
by half. Strain. Allow it to cool. Remove the fat. Put in the stew-pan
again, and when boiling thicken with white roux made of table-spoon
butter and a level table-spoon of flour (see p. 12). Add a half pint of
milk and eggs. Season again. Serve with fried bread.
Vegetable Purées
PAGE
Purée of Asparagus 61
” Black Beans 62
” Broad Beans 63
” Carrots 63
” Endive 64
” Green Peas--I 65
” Green Peas--II 65
” Italian Dried Green Peas 66
” Lentils 67
” Onions 68
” Rice 68
” Turnips 69
” Winter Vegetables 69
When passing vegetables or meat through a tammy or fine sieve, it will
be easier if they are kept continually moistened with a little of the
stock or milk with which the purée is to be made.
Purées having been passed through the sieve or tammy, can, if not
required at once, be set aside until wanted. But a purée that has
reached this point must on no account be re-heated or have milk
or cream added to it until just before it is to be served. When
re-heating, if a meat purée, it should not be allowed to boil, or even
be made hotter than is absolutely necessary.
Allow all vegetable purées to boil up quickly for several minutes after
the purée and stock have been mixed. This will clarify them. All scum
should be carefully removed. When this is done, the butter and milk or
cream can be added.
A little white or brown roux well mixed with purées a minute or two
before serving will prevent the actual purée from separating from the
stock.
Purée of Asparagus
1 bundle of asparagus
1 handful spinach
1 small onion
1 quart white stock
¹⁄₂ pint milk or cream
1 oz. butter
Break off all that is tender of each piece of asparagus. Scrape and
wash them. Leave them in cold water for half-an-hour. Drain them. Put
them in a sauce pan with a handful of spinach and a small onion. When
tender take all out and drain again. Add to them a quart of white
stock. Season. Boil gently for ten minutes. Put through a tammy. Heat
slowly again, season and add the butter and scalded cream. This soup
may be deepened in colour by adding a little spinach colouring (p.
104). Serve with croûtons (p. 103).
Purée of Black Beans
¹⁄₂ pint black beaus
1 quart water
1 carrot (grated)
1 onion
¹⁄₂ head celery
1 table-spoon butter
1 ” brown roux
2 ozs. raw ham or salt pork
2 cloves
1 bouquet herbs
1 lemon
2 hard-boiled eggs
1 glass sherry
Soak the beans over night. Drain. Put them in a sauce-pan with one
quart cold water, and the ham or pork, the celery, grated carrot, herbs
and cloves pounded. Slice the onion. Fry it in the butter. Add it to
the beans, etc. Simmer for four or five hours. As the water boils away
add _cold_ water to keep it to the same quantity. Put through a sieve.
Return to the fire. Season with salt, pepper, and a little mustard.
Stir in a table-spoonful of brown roux (see p. 13). Just before serving
add the juice of half a lemon and a glass of sherry.
Slice the hard-boiled eggs and half a lemon and put in the soup tureen.
Pour the soup over it. Force-meat balls (p. 104) also may be served
with this purée.
Purée of Broad Beans
1 pint of beans
1 slice of bacon or salt pork
2 sprigs of parsley
3 small onions and one clove
¹⁄₂ head of celery
1 quart water or stock
¹⁄₂ pint milk or cream
1 table-spoon butter
1 ” flour