DIARY.

_March 16th, 1915._--After serving for five months as a lieutenant in

what was at first known as the 1st Highland Field Ambulance, and

afterwards, as the 89th Field Ambulance, I left Coventry, our last

station, to do my little bit in the great European War, our

destination being unknown. We had heard well-founded rumours that we

were going to the Dardanelles, or somewhere in the Levant, and our

being deprived of our horses and receiving mules instead, and helmets

(presumably cork) being ordered for the officers, all pointed to our

being sent to a warmer climate than France or Belgium, where the war

is raging on the west side of the great drama.

Leaving Coventry at 1.50 p.m. we reached Avonmouth about 5, to find

that our boat was not in. The men were put up in a cold, draughty shed

for the night, where they had little sleep, while the officers took

train to Bristol, nine miles off, where we dined excellently at the

Royal Hotel, but, there being no vacant rooms, we went to the St.

Vincent's Rocks Hotel, overlooking the Clifton Suspension Bridge and

the great gorge of the Avon.

_March 17th._--Returned to Avonmouth and wandered about inspecting the

huge transports lying in the docks, and H.M.S. "Cornwall," just

returned for repairs from the fight at Falkland Islands. She had

received three shell holes in her hull, one under the water line, and

a large number of perforations in one of her funnels.

We then got on board our boat, the "Marquette," of the Red Star Line,

built by Alexander Stephen & Sons, Glasgow, of over 8000 tons, and

said to be a good sailer. We lunched with the captain, a Scotchman of

course, hailing from Montrose. At 5.30 we got the men on board, and

all spent the night in our new quarters.

_March 18th._--After getting numerous details on board during last

night and to-day, amounting to about 1300 men, 60 officers, about 700

horses and mules; besides 20 tons of explosives and 50 tons of barbed

wire, and wagons by the hundred, we set sail at 10 p.m. under sealed

orders. No lights were allowed owing to the danger from submarines

which had been busy within the last few days in the Bristol Channel

and about the Scilly Islands. As escort we had two torpedo-boat

destroyers, one on each side and slightly ahead. These left us after

twelve hours, when we were in less danger, and 100 miles west of the

usual course, sailing W.S.W. into the Atlantic.

_March 19th._--Beautiful day with slight breeze, but biting cold at

first; ship pitching and rolling moderately, a few officers a little

sick early, and about 80 per cent of the men, the latter suffering

badly from the close atmosphere in their deck, in which their hammocks

are slung as close as sardines in a tin and all port holes closed. The

electric light had been shut off so that no one might be able to show

a light.

Dr. K----, the ship's ancient doctor, is a curious customer, full of

stories and quaint remarks. Captain Findlay is very communicative but

will not reveal any private orders. He is directed to steer for the

Mediterranean by a certain course. About 5 p.m. to-day he altered his

course from W.S.W. to S. At 5 an order was issued to have the iron

shutters put over the port holes, otherwise no lights to be allowed.

Very little shipping has been seen to-day, although several ships of a

small size have passed at a long distance on our port side. One of the

reasons for choosing this course was to avoid ships that might carry a

wireless installation and signal our movements to the enemy.

The captain, when swearing at the head steward about some

forgetfulness, gave what he considered proof of the superiority of the

memory of the lower animals over the human in a little story. He had

carried Barnum and Bailey's menagerie once from America and

occasionally fed a young elephant, Ruth by name, after President

Cleveland's daughter, she taking apples from his pocket. After three

years he came across her again, and calling her by name, she came up

and put her trunk into the same pocket as of old. On the trip over he

carried 1200 animals, only two dying, one being the giraffe which fell

down a hatchway and broke his neck in two places--somehow a very

fitting death for a giraffe.

Saw several porpoises playing and jumping beside the boat. A wireless

message to the captain tells of the appearance of a German submarine

at Dover last night.

Towards 6.30 two very large steamers crossed our bows, coming out of

the west, while we went slowly to avoid them. One carried no lights

and was probably carrying troops from Canada.

Had an amusing talk on the boat deck with the old doctor. He was

telling us about three padres who left our boat just before we

started, preferring to go by another as they did not like travelling

with so many animals. There being no parson for the coming Sundays

they requested him to hold the services, but he replied that there was

no use asking him, he could not pray worth a damn. He explained that a

ship rang eight bells at 12, four at 8, and one for each half-hour

after these, as one bell at 4.30, two at 5, three at 5.30, and so on.

Beautiful night, stars clear, and sea very smooth for the Atlantic and

the Bay of Biscay, where we now are. The equinoctial gales usually

begin on March 20 (to-morrow), so the captain says. We have averaged

12-1/2 knots since we left Avonmouth. A small bucketfull of water is

taken from the sea every two hours, and its temperature taken to see

if we are near ice.

_March 20th._--Weather to-day typical of the Bay of Biscay, half a

gale all day, and blowing furiously at 7 o'clock, bottles, glasses,

etc., flying off the dinner-table. Sea-sickness very rife, almost

every one suffering more or less. Saw only two passing ships to-day.

The captain prophesies warmer weather to-morrow if the wind remains in

the east as at present. It will then be off the land, we being

opposite Finisterre about 8 a.m. to-morrow.

The orders to the captain are to remain sixty miles off land while

skirting Spain and Portugal. By wireless we hear the Allies still gain

ground in Flanders, and of a railway collision in Lancashire.

_March 21st._--Sunday.--Good news by wireless of the progress of the

war. Wind changed to S.E., showery in the morning, and pleasantly

warm. Church parade at 10. "Old Hundred" by the congregation, led by

Serg. Gibb, the Lord's Prayer by Serg. Gaskin--as much of it as he

could remember--a chapter of Matthew by Capt. Stephen followed by some

words of advice, when the attempts of the audience to look solemn were

all in vain--then off to the deck with "The Innocents Abroad".

During the day the weather has been very variable, occasionally very

heavy rain showers, but very mild; strong gale all day right in our

teeth which must retard our progress. At dinner--7 p.m.--the captain

said we were not quite opposite Lisbon, but nearly. With a few

exceptions all have found their sea legs.

_March 22nd._--Being Orderly Officer I was up at 6.45 and inspected

our unit's breakfast at 7.15, expecting a repetition of the grousing

about their food which has gone on since we came on board, but to-day

all are satisfied for the first time. They began with porridge which

looked palatable, though sloppy for a Scotchman's taste, and was said

to be without salt, which would certainly be the case were the cook an

Englishman. Then each had a cup of coffee which looked fair enough and

smelt good to a hungry man like myself, with two thick slices of bread

with salt butter and jam. I feel as fit as a fiddle, and believe the

equinoctial gales at their worst would be none too much for me. The

feeling that I am to sink to the bottom of the ocean when the boat

pitches has entirely gone.

Stephen and I are wondering what our folks at home are doing, and if

they are always looking for letters from us by the next post. If so

they will be disappointed for many days yet. A good many of our horses

are sick, and two died yesterday and were thrown overboard. The poor

brutes have very cramped quarters.

The sea was fairly rough during daylight and the ship rolled so badly

that at lunch and dinner "fiddles" had to be put along the tables to

keep the dishes in their places. In the evening the wind fell to a

very gentle, balmy breeze, when a number of us spent some time on the

boat deck watching the phosphorescence of the jelly fish, which we saw

in many hundreds.

_March 23rd._--Got up early and on going on deck at 7.30 found we were

making straight for the sun. Most glorious morning, sun bright, sea,

except for the eternal swell, perfectly calm. We had changed our

course and were heading 8 degrees S. of E., making for the Straits of

Gibraltar. At 8 the captain, wishing to be sure of his longitude,

began bawling out to some unseen person, "Mark 23, 22; mark 23, 19,

add another 1; mark 23, 25". He explained that he took the reading

three times then struck an average.

In time land hove in sight, faint at first, but gradually the rocky

coast of Spain, north of Cape Trafalgar, became distinct, then this

cape itself came out of the mist as white as snow--so white that the

purser said he believed it actually was snow. Then higher hills beyond

appeared with others of a similar nature on the African coast. All

looked forbidding and barren. Swallows were flitting about, and would

have meant summer at home, but I fancy they are here all winter. The

heat of the sun was intense, and I observed that his altitude seemed

as high as I was accustomed to see him in midsummer.

The captain soon pointed out "The Rock," and after passing the white

town of Tarifa on the Spanish main it got clearer and clearer, but to

our disgust our boat kept towards the south side of the Straits, and

all were disappointed we were not to have a chance to post letters

here as we expected. Tangier in the outer part of the Straits was

invisible from mist. The Rock was not quite as impressive as I

expected, nor could I with certainty make out more than one gun

position, although I saw several black spots where guns may have

frowned at us.

A gunboat came after us and made us turn about in a circle till she

was satisfied of our identity, the ship's number being invisible

through the mist to those on shore. Ceuta with its snow-white houses

lay on the south coast almost opposite Gibraltar. Some large buildings

could be plainly seen, and between the town and the sea, on the

north-east side the fortified hill held by the Spaniards since they

lost Gibraltar.

Later I found we sailed directly east, our next halt being as yet

unknown. All roll has entirely departed from our ship, which almost

seems unnatural after the tossing we have had. What struck me most

to-day was the rocky nature of both sides of the Straits--we might

have been among the rugged mountains of Ross-shire. Apes Head seemed

to be made of rugged and split masses of limestone. The rocks with

their bright colours were a great relief to our eyes which had rested

on nothing but water for five days.

_March 24th._--A quiet uneventful day; colder than yesterday in the

Atlantic. I find that all along we have sailed with only two lights

showing, both faint, one on either end of the bridge, red to port and

green to starboard. In the last twenty-four hours we covered 286

miles, and going east fast, the clock being now advanced twenty-three

minutes daily. We left Avonmouth with 1500 tons of coal on board, and

we use sixty-five tons daily. We carry a poultry yard and get fresh

eggs for breakfast, one some one had to-day was so fresh that

according to the date written on it it was laid to-morrow (25/3/15).

We have a lot of Irishmen on board which explains this Irishism. We

had a concert in the evening, got up by Col. O'Hagan, the O.C. the

West Lancashire Field Ambulance, when we had many amusing songs and

tales. The sea was as smooth as a duck-pond all day. Towards night the

wind rose, strong enough to cause a big pitch had we been still in the

Atlantic, but here it is hardly noticeable. The south-east corner of

Spain was seen in the morning and a peep of Africa got in the

afternoon.

_March 25th._--Just returned from the engine room, having made up to

the chief engineer, who took me over the machinery and stokehole. The

three cylinders develop 4500 horse-power. The largest is 96 inches in

diameter.

All day we have been in sight of the African coast, the Atlas

Mountains making one continuous range. They reminded me strongly of

Ross-shire, the whole outline being rough and rugged. Mount Atlas,

which we did not see, is 14,740 feet high. About 9 a.m. we were said

to be near the town of Algiers. Great snowfields were visible on most

of the highest mountains. These were very picturesque with the sun

shining on the snow. We have seen little shipping, one large oil boat

passed west. All are taking the lack of news philosophically, nothing,

as far as I can make out, being heard to-day. Code messages from

battleships speaking to each other are received but are unreadable.

Helmets were issued to the officers to-day, but the wind is too cold

to make these necessary.

As Sanitary Officer for the day I had to go over the whole of the

horse decks with the Military Officer of the ship, Lt.-Col. Hingston,

R.E. The alleys between the horse lines, all of which had to be

traversed, must be nearly half a mile in length, all the heads of the

horses projecting in double lines into the narrow passages, which

makes tramping along these dark ways anything but pleasant. The close

stench is very sickening, and I was glad when our journey came to an

end. We have lost four horses so far. The mules are hardier and have

stood the voyage well. They are besides accustomed to the sea, all

having come lately from the Argentine.

_March 26th._--An ideal day and the sun delightfully warm. We had the

African coast in sight the whole time till early afternoon. Passed

Cape Blanco, which in the distance might have been part of Deeside,

hills with stretches of verdure which looked like forest with brown

spaces between which were probably sand.

Helmets were issued to the men to-day. These with their broad brims

look very serviceable against the sun. One man coming on a friend who

had just donned his, yelled: "Hello, man, come oot o' that till I see

yer feet".

At the present speed we should reach Malta at 6 a.m. to-morrow where

surely we'll be able to post letters, but they have a long way to go

to reach home. At 5 o'clock we were opposite Pantellaria, an Italian

penal settlement, and about 140 miles from Malta. On the north coast

of the island the settlement is visible, big white houses at different

levels on its rocky face. There are very steep rocks on the east side

rising straight out of the sea.

_March 27th._--My first peep at the East--although it is perhaps not

the East proper. I rose at 5.30 to find Malta right ahead, and Valetta

only a mile or two distant. The sight was gorgeous, the rocky land all

tints of yellow, and the houses of divers colours, flat-roofed, domed,

and altogether Oriental.

Two warships, which turned out to be the "Prince of Wales" and the

"Paris," were steaming rapidly from the north-east, and we were

ordered to lie to till they entered the harbour, then to follow. The

scene on entering this harbour baffles description, with its cliffs,

forts, and frowning guns and numerous warships. There were signs of

war preparations everywhere. The entrance to the harbour was guarded

by booms, only a small opening being left where they were folded back.

A short way inside came another row of booms. Then came a French

warship on our port side, coaling at its hardest, from which came

shouts to our decks crowded with troops of "where are you going"? The

reply had to be "We don't know". Immediately to starboard we had

another French ship which turned out to be the largest in the harbour.

All her crew and band were drawn up on deck, and the latter struck up

"God save the King". We at once stood at attention, all in silence,

but when the strains ended every man hurrahed at the pitch of his

voice. The band then gave us "It's a long way to Tipperary".

On going a little farther we were moored to a buoy in the middle of

the waterway, with all sorts of shipping round us, mostly French

warships, there being at least a dozen of that nationality, the only

British men-of-war being the two we saw enter. The transparency and

greenness of the water are remarkable. The whole harbour is dotted

over with "bum boats" which are said to be peculiar to Malta, and have

high boards at their stem and stern, and are worked by one or two men

standing upright. Most sell fruits and odds and ends to those on

board, while others convey passengers to and from the land. The houses

about the harbour are largely forts or connected with the army and

navy. They rise tier upon tier to the top of the surrounding rocks

which may be about 150 feet high.

After lunch permission was given to the officers and N.C.O.'s to go

ashore. There was great excitement of course, and all asked for leave

forthwith. Being "Officer of the day," whose duties applied to the

whole ship, I decided not to remind the C.O.--Col. Hingston--of this,

but our C.O. mentioning at lunch that I need not look for leave I

could not sneak off as I had intended, and was to be permitted only if

I found a substitute, which, of course, I failed to do. Every one has

gone to stretch his legs on land except the "Captain of the day" and

myself. Still I hope to get a short turn ashore before we sail at 6

p.m. which is announced as the hour of our departure--and our

destination? we wish we knew.

8.30 p.m.--Fiddes very kindly returned early to relieve me and I

spent two very enjoyable hours in Valetta, wandering about its narrow

and stair-like streets. There were goats everywhere, many being milked

on the doorsteps as I passed. I bought some pieces of Maltese lace,

which is pretty much of one pattern, generally a Maltese cross

surrounded by flowers. The inhabitants are plainly of Italian descent,

but if you ask if that is their nationality, they always deny it and

say they are Maltese. The shops are totally different from anything I

have ever seen, and except in the best streets, have no windows,

merely a huge, gaping doorway. The weather was very close and many of

the inhabitants and the children generally, were bare legged and well

bronzed. The women's dress was very peculiar, all being in jet black

with a strange lopsided head-dress. The edge has a stiff hoop and

projects well in front of the face.

The plants were all tropical--palms, cacti of many sorts, and masses

of a deep purple flower that covered large expanses of wall. All trees

were in full leaf, but they would be mostly evergreen. Worthy looking

padres in their shovel hats were plentiful, also monks in dark brown

cloaks, rope girdles and sandal shoon, and usually bareheaded,

although a few wore a tiny cap, little bigger than the top of an egg,

which it resembled in shape.

I was much interested on discovering the reason why all the women in

Malta wear black, which seems to be commenced about the age of eleven

or twelve. Napoleon and his army had exercised great liberties with

their sex during a visit, and in consequence it was decreed by the

Pope that all women in Malta should go into mourning for the period of

a hundred years. This time is up but they seem to know that their mode

of dress is very becoming, and it looks as if the decree was to hold

good for all time.

It is impossible to go round the stair-like streets, which abound in

Malta, with a milk cart, hence you find all over the town a man or

boy with about half a dozen goats, shouting something or other, when

the women appear at their doors with jugs into which the men milk the

quantity required, as they sit on the doorstep. This is all very

quaint and picturesque, especially when combined with the bright

clothing of the men and children, the bright projecting upper windows,

and the altogether foreign and tropical appearance of the whole town

and island.

All the officers thoroughly enjoyed what was a new experience to most

of us, all returning to the boat laden with parcels, and being

unusually lively at dinner, and the wine flowing more freely than

usual among a body of men who rarely drink anything but water--and

very flat and unpleasant water it is too.

We left Malta at 6 p.m. _en route_ for Alexandria, as I am told by the

captain, who says it is no longer a secret. This is evidently to be

the place of concentration of the 29th Division. Another transport,

the "Kingstonia," left half an hour before us, amidst great cheering

from the warships and us. We too had a right royal send-off from all

the warships we passed, their decks being packed with cheering

multitudes, and our French friends of the morning played the National

Anthem again in the usual silence. We half expected it this time, but

its coming so unexpectedly in the morning made it most impressive.

Eleven powerful searchlights were playing at the entrance of this

important harbour--a harbour which must be one of Britain's greatest

assets. When thrown on us even a mile off the light was absolutely

dazzling.

_March 28th._--Churning all day through a sea of ultra-marine hue,

with a brilliant sun overhead and a fair breeze behind. We are now a

long way east of the longitude of Greenwich, the clock at noon

yesterday being seventy minutes before G.M.T. This means a daily loss

of sleep and consequently much swearing. At one time in the Atlantic

we were between fifty and sixty minutes behind G.M.T.

There was a great fuss last night over the supposed discovery of six

cases of measles in our unit. This morning a Medical Board sat and

pronounced all the cases to be merely erythematous rashes following

vaccination four days ago, and consequently the quarantine instituted

last night has been relaxed, but only in a modified form, so as to let

the guilty party down gently. As a result of all this unnecessary fuss

the two field ambulances on board were nearly split into two camps.

_March 29th._--Another quiet day and a calm sea.

Three interpreters joined our boat at Malta, they leaving home two

days after us by a P. & O. boat. These men have a thorough knowledge

of Turkish, Greek, and French.

The heat of the sun has been intense to-day, and a number of us were

glad to don our helmets. These are not altogether a success, they are

too heavy.

We had a short lecture on "Turkey" by one of the interpreters, when he

spoke about the roads, which seem to be few, woods still fewer, water

supply and some other points likely to be of practical interest to us

shortly. Rains usually cease in the end of March, and, except for an

occasional shower, the heat of summer lasts till the middle of

September, the temperature being just under 100° F.

_March 30th._--Lying in the harbour of Alexandria, where we arrived

about 3 p.m. The day has been perfect, the temperature moderate till

we came near land when the sun simply scorched us. At sea there is

always a breeze, but as we now lie at anchor in the middle of the

harbour the air is absolutely still and oppressive. We seemed to

describe the letter "S" as we approached from the sea, this course

being likely due to sand bars. To one who has never been in the East

before the sight of this town with its huge commercial buildings, its

great palm trees which are visible not far from the water's edge, and

a harbour full of great liners, and looking big enough to hold all the

shipping of the world, is a great education. Three ships have entered

since we came in, one being the "Kingstonia," one of our divisional

transports, another full of French troops. We were, of course,

surrounded by boats trying to do a little honest trade with us, but

our men were strictly forbidden to purchase anything from them owing

to the risk of infection.

These boats were manned principally by Arabs in their peculiar dresses

of brilliant hue and many wore the fez. All were burned as dark as an

old penny. Owing to our being supposed to have had measles on board,

although it was proved to every one's satisfaction that there was no

reason for this suspicion, we had to enter with the yellow flag flying

at the foremast. We had visits from official boats, one with the

police flag, very likely expecting to hear that we had cholera or

smallpox among us. At any rate the objectionable flag was soon hauled

down and we half expected to get permission to land, but so far no

orders have come from shore.

The deep blue of the Mediterranean has been left behind for a time,

which may be very short, and certainly cannot be long, and we now

float on the light green waters of the Nile. The bugle has just

sounded "the officer's mess," a sound that is welcome to me; the heat

has not yet taken away my appetite.

_March 31st._--We were towed to the wharfside at 3 p.m. Then the

unloading of our great sea monster began, men trooped on shore,

followed by the horses which, unused to daylight in the miserable

dens they had just left, looked terrified and floundered down the

gangways. It took hours for this procession of animals to end, the

exit from Noah's ark must have been a poor show in comparison.

Our men set off for their camp at Mex, three miles away, about 6 p.m.,

I being left with a fatigue party of twenty-seven men to finish the

packing of our stores on railway trucks, and see them despatched in

time to arrive at Mex before the men, so that on their arrival they

could set to and pitch their tents on the piece of land allotted to

them, and which is said to be composed of equal parts of sand and

lice! I feel that I have scored in having one night's relief from this

plague--but we are in the land of plagues, the home of the Pharaohs.

About 8 p.m. I set off on a visit to Alexandria, and from the docks

passed up a street lined on both sides with our animals tied to picket

ropes for the night, and at the top of the street came on a grove of

many acres of towering palm trees. After a mile or a mile and a half,

seeing no newspaper shops, nor anything resembling a British shop, I

asked an Egyptian where a "journal" was to be had. We could not

understand each other, even signs were of no use, so I tried again and

the next man understood me, and directed my black Soudanese friend,

who had attached himself to me as my guide, where to go, but from the

deviations he took into narrow and remarkably gay by-streets, he

plainly thought that this newspaper hunt was a ruse for seeing

Alexandria by night. All this was very interesting all the same. I

rubbed shoulders with many an Egyptian "nut" who made no pretence

about his errand to this questionable part of the town. The many

streets I passed through, and I must have penetrated about three miles

into the town, seemed very familiar to me, they were so very like

pictures one sees of this part. The cafés were crowded with Egyptian

revellers, and occasionally I saw groups of our Tommies enjoying a

drink among them. The former were all in their brilliant robes, and as

they stood or squatted about, smoking their long pipes, they formed a

most interesting picture. Their big pipes even blocked the pavement at

times, the men squatted on their haunches with their pipes a couple of

feet in front and a passer-by had to be careful not to upset and smash

them. A fine picture was made by two old fellows squatting on a rug in

the open window of a small shop, smoking and drinking coffee, and

looking as if they could curse to fourteen generations any customer

bold enough to disturb them in their innocent enjoyment of doing

nothing. One of our officers who knows this town and its inhabitants,

says if you curse a man he will only laugh in your face, but when you

begin cursing to all eternity his brothers and sisters, father and

mother, he begins to wax wroth, and by the time you reach the tenth to

the fourteenth generation he dances about with fury and gnashes his

teeth.

_April 1st._--Up early and breakfast at 6.30. By this time the engines

were rattling and new ropes creaking, while stores of all kind were

being landed. Some acres of quay and side streets were covered with

these, the horses and mules having been mostly landed yesterday. Then

began the scramble for wagon poles, crossbars, etc., any unit finding

itself short just seized the first it came across. We lost odds and

ends and followed the recognised custom, known as "skirmishing," and

in the end were only short of our full complement by a crossbar and a

bicycle. I had a very busy day up to 3 o'clock when we started for Mex

camp. We marched out, reaching this at 4.45 after a very warm tramp,

tempered by a gentle breeze off the Mediterranean. The country through

which we passed was barren in the extreme, honey-combed all the way

from quarrying the soil, which is full of salt and soda with a white

chalky base. There are everywhere deep holes full of salt water with

salt-loving plants about them, practically the only vegetation to be

seen; between these there is a mass of hummocks, and pinnacles, with

occasional sheep that look like goats, feeding on I do not know what,

unless it be a tuft-headed small grass which is found sparsely on the

higher grounds. In front of our tents are larger mounds on which four

camels are nibbling at this grass, these being kept by some Bedouins

for giving milk. Seeing some dark-skinned rascals having a ride on

them I went up to them and was offered a mount for a penny; then the

urchin, who had an early training in fleecing, thought he might double

his charge and held up two fingers to designate the amount and marched

off his camel till I consented. The brute nearly broke first my neck

and then my back, but I greatly enjoyed my short ride.

Immediately after this an Inniskilling Fusilier raced Thomson and

myself over these terrible salt pits to the sea edge where an

unconscious man was lying, having been dragged out of the water after

disappearing like a stone, although said to be a strong swimmer.

_April 2nd._--A day of great heat, were it not for an occasional air

from the Mediterranean. The whole of our camp is covered with ordinary

soft sea-sand, and it gets very hot and very glaring. Immediately

behind the more or less level ground on which the 29th Field Ambulance

is encamped the pure white, chalky higher ground commences, peopled by

camels, goats, and sheep. The last two are so much alike it is

difficult to say which of the families they belong to.

About 6 p.m. I set out for Alexandria with four of our officers. After

a little shopping and haircutting we had an excellent dinner at the

Grand Restaurant du Nil, all considering some fried mullet to be the

finest fish we had ever tasted. With a fairly liberal supply of wine

the dinner for the five of us cost only about 17s. Then to the Moulin

Rouge, which I should say is the counterpart of its better-known

namesake in Paris. The newness of the whole show made it amusing.

_April 3rd._--Apparently it never rains here after summer has

commenced. I have been studying the ornithology of these bare chalk

mounds, and find the birds are practically the same as our commonest

ones at home--swallows, stonechats--which have been very busy

to-day--our two water wagtails, and the wretched little sparrow. I

thought the flamingo was to be found along the coast but have never

seen a specimen on this inhospitable shore. I have also seen a bird

not unlike a thrush, and a few small things apparently of the linnet

family. Creepy animals are only too plentiful, the most objectionable

at present is the common housefly which is a perfect plague. They are

everywhere and are specially fond of the rope suspending my lantern.

Unfortunately the place that is second favourite is one's nose.

Locusts are said to be in greater abundance in Lower Egypt than was

ever known before. Here I have seen but a few dozen, and at first I

took them for small dragonflies. They have the same beautiful wings,

but their style of flight is quite different, the locust alighting

every few yards to have a look at you. Ants, great and small, are

everywhere in the morning, but when the sand gets too hot most of them

disappear. One big ant has a huge head, a fairly broad tail piece and

small body. Lizards are very common on the chalk mounds, and yesterday

I watched four huge specimens basking in the sun half-way down an old

lime kiln.

_April 4th._--Easter Sunday. We had a service suitable for the day

from a Presbyterian Chaplain on the hillside, when there were 700 to

800 present from different units. During the sermon we all lay on the

sand, while overhead a lark carolled forth in notes more mild than are

uttered by our British lark, but the habits of the two are similar,

but ours soars highest.

We have improved our field mess, stores having been got privately

among us. By this means we had a very good one o'clock dinner,

followed by a snooze by some of us, while others slept straight on

till tea-time. I set out alone for a walk into a part I had not

visited before, namely, along the seashore west of Mex Camp, to

Dakeilah village. I passed an old fort with three very old cast-iron

guns of 9-inch bore, lying uselessly on their sides, one labelled

"loaded--dangerous". Beyond that the sand is a great depth, and the

natives seemed to have it divided into allotments, each piece dug into

a deep, wide trench from 6 to 12 feet deep, and along the bottom they

have a row of tomatoes. These grow luxuriantly, apparently in pure

sand, but there is probably a liberal supply of manure below. Figs,

dates, and grapes seem to be the chief fruits grown.

I passed in a corner shaded by tall palm trees a large well which

formed a perfect picture--children frisked about, while women drew

water, and all about were their big water jars. Just beyond that my

walk took me through a native cemetery, all the tombs exactly alike, a

big base about five feet long and nearly three high, and a five foot

column on each end. These were the more recent ones, the old graves

were merely rough hillocks of stones and clay, as the modern ones will

be some day.

I was much astonished to-day at the large number of botanical

specimens I came across. For such a sterile part it is most

remarkable. I should say 200 species could be picked up in a

forenoon's walk.

On returning we all had a talk with a very intelligent Arab boy of

about twelve summers, and got a number of words and a few phrases

from him. All the native children are very pretty, they have good

features, splendid eyes and teeth, and look as sharp as needles. If

you dare speak to one it at once gives him an opening to demand

backsheesh. I omitted to mention that the only Moslem minaret I have

seen so far was in Dakeilah. These may be plentiful in Alexandria, but

I have never been there in daylight.

The following are some of the words taught us by the young Arab, but I

found it impossible to find a satisfactory spelling for most of

them:--

Gatusheira Thank you.

Daphtar A book.

Chaima A tent.

Muphta A key.

Sigara A cigar.

Salama lecho Good morning.

Dasoyak Good-bye.

Homar A donkey.

Asioa Yes.

La No.

The following Arabic words and phrases are from a piece of paper I

picked up in Cox's Bank, Alexandria:--

1. Wahed. 6. Setta. 11. Hidashar.

2. Etneen. 7. Saba'a. 12. Etnashar.

3. Talata. 8. Tamanya. 13. Talatashar.

4. Arba'a. 9. Tessa. 20. Ashrin.

5. Khamsa. 10. Ashara. 100. Miya.

Naharak said Good morning.

Sa'a kam What time.

Sa'a waked One o'clock.

Maragsh Arabi I don't speak Arabic.

Kam tamanu What does it cost?

_April 5th._--This has been a day of exceptional heat, and curiously

is the religious day of the Moslems called Shem-el-nessim, which in

Arabic means "breathing the cool breeze". To-day all their shops are

shut, and the whole day is spent in the country. What is celebrated is

the first of the hot simoon winds which last fifty days, and

apparently the day for their commencement is most accurately gauged.

We were all only too glad to carry out the written instructions we

received some days ago, to keep under cover and try to sleep from noon

to three o'clock, and if you cannot sleep yourself you must keep quiet

and allow others to sleep. No bugle calls are allowed between these

hours. All round us there has been haze through which the sun could

not penetrate, but if he had the result would have been truly

terrible. The dust has also been worse than usual and everything in my

tent is grey. This is another of the plagues of Egypt. However, if

rumour is true, we will soon depart from here for more active service.

After dark to-night we went out in search of men supposed to be

wounded, six of our bearers acting as these and starting fifteen

minutes before the stretcher bearers. The night was very dark and the

pure white ground looked absolutely even, and some narrow escapes were

made, several finding just in time that they were on the edge of a

precipice. We had planned a few signals, but the principal lesson we

were taught was that these were too few in number, and owing to this

whole stretcher squads got lost.

We are still finding and having visits from new animals. To-day I had

a dragon fly brought to me. I find I had seen several of these before

but had mistaken them for locusts. The latter have much heavier

bodies, but very similar wings. We have just had a visit from a huge

beetle which we heard battering the tent, then it gradually got

nearer, next hitting the tent pole and falling on the small table on

which my candle flickers, the glare of which had attracted him. Kellas

caught a moth and kept it for me. It was nothing much to look at, but

it is the very first I have seen here. He also describes another moth

he saw to-day as fluttering in front of a flower without alighting on

it, but hovering and thrusting its proboscis into a long-tubed flower.

I once saw a similar moth at Torphins (this had been the Humming bird

moth which I have seen hundreds of since then).

When different units get together in a camp the amount of thieving,

technically called skirmishing, is beyond belief to anyone

unaccustomed to camp life. At present we have two mules that do not

belong to us. One wandered into our camp and a man who claimed it as

belonging to his unit was told he had to prove his statement before he

would be allowed to remove it, which he failed to do. To-day another

was brought in tied to the tail-board of a wagon. It was seen

wandering near the road between this and Alexandria, and the men in

the wagon commandeered him at once, and here he will remain. I am a

fairly good skirmisher myself, and when a wagon pole, for which I was

responsible when unloading at the docks, did not turn up, I had two in

its place in no time. We afterwards found that neither of them would

fit any of our wagons. The cook has been handicapped in his work by

having no table, but to-day he has one about 12 feet long which he

tells me he got "over the road" last night when it was dark. Agassiz,

our transport officer, requests us to look out for a picket rope; he

would like it two inches thick and about 100 feet long. Rather a big

order but should not be beyond our combined efforts.

_April 6th._--Two Infantry Brigades, our Ambulance (89th) and the West

Lancashire Ambulance (87th) were inspected by General Sir Ian

Hamilton. Like ourselves he is an Aberdonian, being a member of the

Hamilton family of Skene House. We had a very dusty day, all returning

to camp quite grey.

In the afternoon I visited Alexandria with Stephen and Thomson and had

tea at the Hotel Majestic in the Square of Mahomet Ali, the finest

part of the town, then we flattened our noses against shop windows and

bought a few odds and ends for home. The shops along the street to the

left of the Bourse (Rue Sheref Pasha) were good and interesting,

especially one that sold only Egyptian goods--Tawa's--where we made

most of our purchases.

Then I chanced to come across Fiddes and Morris driving down this

street when they hailed me and announced that they had just come from

the Excelsior Hotel, the headquarters of the 29th Division, with the

news that our bearers had to set off for the front before morning, and

that I was one of the three officers who were to accompany them. We

finished our shopping, and I went to Cook's office and wrote two post

cards, then drove out to Mex, we all meeting round the mess table to

hear the latest orders.

_April 7th._--Hung about all day in expectation of the promise from

H.Q. that they would 'phone to us when it was decided at what hour we

were to start. No message came during the day, then after 9 p.m. an

officer came in from our Brigade H.Q., saying they were wondering at

the boat "why the devil we were not on board". After a little 'phoning

we discovered we had been overlooked, and we were ordered to march at

once as our boat was to sail at 7 a.m. to-morrow. It was now past 10

p.m. and the men had to be roused from their tents and the mules

yoked. We fell in, 124 men and 3 officers, and amidst loud cheers and

handshakes we set off and reached the docks about 1.30. We were only

allowed light equipment, the men their kitbags, waterbottles,

haversacks, and coats rolled in bandolier fashion (i.e. full marching

order) while the officers were supposed not to exceed the regulation

35 lbs. of baggage. Most of our equipment we left to come on with the

tent subdivision and transport which are expected to sail on the 10th,

in our old ship the "Marquette". Thus ended the first four miles of

our journey, on this the last stage, while to-morrow we sail north,

presumably for Gallipoli, but some say Smyrna, to join in what will be

a most bloody affair--so we have been warned by Lord Kitchener who, in

an address to our Infantry Battalions, has said that the work before

us will be hard in the extreme, and that he had reserved our Infantry

as the finest Battalions in the Army for this arduous job, and told

them that they must be prepared to face great hardships and great

sacrifices. In the 86th Brigade, to which our Ambulance is attached,

we have four veteran Battalions, 2nd Royal Fusiliers, 1st Lancashire

Fusiliers, 1st Royal Dublin Fusiliers, and the 1st Munster Fusiliers.

This Brigade was described by Sir Ian Hamilton as the flower of the

British Army. All have served nine or ten years in India and all have

smelt powder.

_April 8th._--At 10.45 a.m. the Cunard liner, the "Ausonia" (better

known at present as B4) cast off, and with the help of two tugs we

were soon out on the open sea. She had sailed from Avonmouth on March

16, the night on which we were booked to sail, and in the Bristol

Channel some suspicious craft suddenly appeared. She at once altered

her course and the two attendant torpedo boats gave chase to what was

taken to be a German submarine. We had been told that the reason for

our not sailing on the same date was that our boat was not in, but our

captain afterwards told us he had been lying to for a whole week, but

the presence of this submarine was the real reason.

The forces for the present expedition against Turkey have concentrated

in Alexandria, and are at present over 100,000 strong, mostly British

but also largely French. To-day the pioneers of this huge force have

set sail, and as far as I can gather our boat was the second to go

out. We are doing 14 knots and in two or three days should reach our

journey's end. The day is beautiful and the Mediterranean its deepest

blue.

I have been having a talk with the captain of the "Ausonia". He has

only 64 tons of water on board, while he should have had ten times

that amount. There are no pipes laid to the docks and the whole of the

shipping has to depend on six water lighters which carry 60 tons each.

At present these are totally unable to supply the huge number of

transports in Alexandria. The half of these are flying two flags

beside each other to denote a shortage of water. In both the ground is

red, the upper with red diagonal stripes while the lower has a yellow

cross.

I find the cooking on the Cunard line very superior to what it was on

the Red Star. Here it is as good as in a first-class hotel.

_April 9th._--At 10 a.m. we were opposite rocky land to port. Some say

this is the island of Rhodes, others Abydos, but not having a map of

the southern part of the Archipelago I am unable to give an opinion.

About 11.30 we had land to starboard which a naval man assured me "was

Rhodes right enough". He pointed to a camel-backed hill and said, "If

there is a lighthouse opposite the middle of that, then I have no

doubt about it". It was there sure enough when examined through a

field glass.

A short time after leaving Alexandria I found by the compass we were

steering 20° to 25° W. of N. while all this forenoon we have gone due

N. I have been out on the deck watching an engineer unit preparing

posts for barbed wire. At present they have poles 12 feet long; both

ends are being pointed and a pencil mark is drawn round the middle of

the pole. They can thus quickly make two pointed posts by means of a

saw, but they expect to find the long poles useful before that

happens. They will lash their shovels and other tools to these, and

two men can carry them on their shoulders.

After lunch I had a conversation with my new friend, the captain of

the "Ausonia". He tells me the island on our port side was neither

Rhodes nor Abydos. The most interesting piece of news I got out of him

was that our destination was Lemnos, but that he expected that it was

merely as a rendezvous for the whole force, and was only 48 miles from

Sedd-el-Bahr, on the south point of Gallipoli. His view is that we

will land a short way north of that. He is against its being so far

north as the Gulf of Saros and the narrow neck of land there. He

thinks the preparations against our landing there would be too

complete by now. He is in distress over his shortage of water as none

is to be had in the small islands. This shortage of water got me into

trouble with the O.C. the troops on board at general parade this

morning. Many of the men had not shaved for two days, and some looked

untidy and unwashed, but all put this down to their being denied water

to slake their thirst, which must come before washing and shaving but

the order was "see that it does not happen again". I advised one

particularly hirsute chap to lower his shaving brush into the sea

to-morrow at the end of a string.

It is a remarkable thing, noted and spoken about by us all, how seldom

the thought of home enters our minds. I merely note this as a curious

fact. There is no excitement about the "bloody errand"--as some one

called it this morning--we are on, so that that is not the cause.

Perhaps it is just as well for us that we have worried so little.

There is far too much pity lavished on us when we go forth to war.

The officers are in a state of wild excitement to-night. Wishing to

have a game of baccarat some of them asked Whyte and myself to join

them, which we did willingly, feeling that it was possibly our last

night in civilisation. I did not understand the game but ended 7s. to

the good.

_April 10th._--Reached Lemnos about noon. We passed numerous islands

in the Archipelago, many small, and none showed signs of life except

for an occasional lighthouse, but all the larger ones are inhabited,

and grow currants, figs, and grapes in abundance.

Lemnos has a huge roadstead, open to the south, and at present

protected at the two southern points by big guns and searchlights. A

long arm forming the inner harbour extends to the right, and here a

large number of ships is lying, eight battleships being among the

number. We and another transport are anchored in the middle of the

roadstead, awaiting the arrival of the other members of the

expedition. It is said that over 100,000 will arrive from Egypt. The

greatest warship afloat, and one that figured largely in the

bombardment of the Dardanelles two months ago, the "Queen Elizabeth,"

lies a short way off on our starboard. The whole is shut in by steep

hills, rough and rugged, some of which must be over 1000 feet high.

The land between these and the water looks well cultivated, the

brilliant green of young crops being a relief to our eyes after our

long voyage. We have seen nothing but sea, rocks, chalk and sand since

March 18. I see no chance of getting ashore, but nothing would delight

me more than a scramble to the top of the highest peak away to the

west.

I was asking a Royal Naval Officer on board if our occupying Lemnos

involved any breach of neutrality, belonging, as it does, to Greece.

Although Greek, it has been leased by Turkey for years, and we have in

reality seized it from the latter.

In the afternoon we entered the inner harbour and cast anchor in the

middle of a number of transports. This inner harbour is more or less

circular and is about three miles long and two wide.

_April 11th._--Several transports have arrived since we entered

yesterday. When I looked through my port-hole at 6 o'clock this

morning the surrounding country looked very fresh, and free from all

haze, and the bright green of the crops and grass on the hill-sides

would have done credit to old Ireland.

After lunch I met Lt.-Col. Rooth of the Dublins, who gave me some

authentic information concerning the proposed military landing on

Gallipoli. The covering party for the whole expedition is to be our

86th Brigade. The Munsters are in the S.S.T. "Caledonia," (B ii) lying

alongside our ship. The Lancashires are there also. All these, along

with our stretcher bearers, land together from cutters, and the date

fixed is in all probability Wednesday, April 14, or the following day

at latest. A very warm reception from the enemy on shore is expected,

as I gather from the way the Dublin officers talk. It is also said

that we will have to make a dash for it under the cover of night.

Practically due north from where we lie we can see the top of a

snow-clad mountain which must be several thousand feet in height. Is

this in Imbros? (Samothrace.)

A German Taube was seen over us to-day flying very high. Two

hydroplanes went up from our fleet and scouted round us for several

miles for over an hour. Some say another was seen very early in the

morning.

_April 12th._--Orders were issued yesterday that we were to practice

disembarking to-day in preparation for the landing on Gallipoli. The

different units had to line up in the stations allotted to them, ours

luckily being on the saloon deck where we will get use of the

accommodation ladder instead of the rope ladder as first proposed.

Except for our rations, which had not been issued, we had on our full

marching order loads--revolver, water-bottle, ammunition, haversack,

field glasses, map case, Burberry and ground sheet. When we land we

will have about 5 lbs. of rations in addition.

Several of the officers on our ship visited the "Queen Elizabeth"

yesterday and returned with very alarming reports, this boat having

many times taken part in bombarding the Dardanelles Forts has a good

idea of what awaits us. They say the whole of Gallipoli swarms with

Turks, and the whole coast is covered with trenches and barbed wire

entanglements 6 feet high. They talk as if it meant absolute

annihilation of our small covering force of about 5000. The whole

remainder of the Expeditionary Force, I presume, will lie out at sea

till the coast is clear--should we succeed in clearing it, but it is

very evident every man I have spoken to has practically no hope of

ever returning. They expect our landing cutters to be well peppered

with shot and shell, and in our practice to-day we had to appear with

the straps of all our equipment outside our shoulder straps, and the

ends of our belts free, ready to whip open and get rid of it at a

moment's notice. I noticed that all our officers were unusually quiet

and serious last night, while they discussed the situation no doubt. I

went to bed at my usual hour and slept like a top.

The "Queen Elizabeth" went round to the Dardanelles to-day with the

C.O.'s of the regiments which are to take part in the covering

operations, looking for suitable places to disembark. We saw her

return to harbour about 6 p.m., and we hear she was fired on.

Whyte, Morris, and I anxiously watched a four-masted transport enter

the harbour this evening thinking it was possibly the "Marquette,"

but it proved to be A5, so that we have no chance of hearing from home

before to-morrow. We want our mail before we set off again, as the

next time will be for a long and indefinite period. All the transports

are named "B," "A," or "C"--British, Australian, or Colonial. Ours the

"Ausonia" is B4--no fewer than ninety transports lay in the harbour of

Alexandria ready to carry our troops to Lemnos.

_April 13th._--I have just returned from a trip ashore, the O.C. the

troops granting me leave on request to do so with twenty-four of our

men. We had three-quarters of an hour on land and had time to climb to

the top of a small hill. What struck me most on the more level ground

was the amount and stickiness of the mud, which was almost equal to

our horse lines at Bedford. Every spot was covered with flowers,

mostly of the vetch family. The corn crops were absolutely choked with

a large, spiked, dark purple vetch, with a sprinkling of the common

poppy (_Papaver Dubium_), and the ordinary charlock of the corn fields

at home, and another species of this same family. I found two mallows,

two or three thistles, one with a head like our Melancholy thistle,

but the commonest was one with white lines on the leaf. There were

numerous other flowers, so numerous that I thought this explained why

so much of the honey used in Britain came from Greece and these

islands. At the top of the hill we met a few shepherds tending sheep

and cattle, many of the sheep wearing bells which kept up a constant

tinkling. The men were very picturesque in their moccasin shoes,

sheepskin waistcoats and heavy coats with hoods. On the way from shore

with fourteen men at the six oars it was very nearly too much for us

to reach our boat, the wind having risen suddenly. It must have taken

us an hour to row about half a mile.

Orders have come to us to-day about our landing. We are warned to

keep our equipment dry as we will be waist-deep in water on leaving

the tow boats. Rumour had it yesterday that Thursday night had been

definitely fixed, but this afternoon it is said that the landing is

likely to take place to-morrow. The thought of this, in spite of the

warm reception promised, does not frighten one in the very least: I

can honestly say that it never once entered my head when on shore

to-day. When it comes to the pinch one can face the inevitable with

perfect coolness.

The following I have copied from the directory of the 29th Division,

there being two alterations since it was published:--

86th Infantry Brigade.

Commander Brig.-General S.W. Hare.

Brig.-Major Capt. T.H.C. Frankland, R. Dub. Fus.

Staff. Capt. Capt. H.M. Farmer, Lanc. Fus.

2 Royal Fus. Lt.-Col. H.C.B. Newenham.

Adjt. T.D. Shafto.

1 Lanc. Fus. Lt.-Col. H.V.S. Ormond.

Adjt. Capt. C. Bromley.

1 Munster Fus. Lt.-Col. H.E. Tizard.

Adjt. Capt. H.S. Wilson.

1 W. Fus. Lt.-Col. Rooth.

Adjt. Major C.T.W. Grimshaw, D.S.O.

The commander of the Division is General Hunter-Weston, R.E.

The great harbour of Lemnos is gradually filling; we had about thirty

troopships in the inner harbour, and before lunch seven were lying in

the outer. It was a magnificent sight from the top of the hill I have

mentioned.

_April 14th._--Wednesday. Had a very slow day on board, feeling that I

was badly in need of some hard physical exercise. No attack to be made

to-day, that is evident, and I doubt if we are ready for it

to-morrow. Orders are out for the usual drill to-morrow which now

always consists of boating, landing, and climbing rope ladders

swinging about in mid-air.

After dinner I had a long talk with one of the ship's officers who had

been in the navy for years, and is now attached to this boat to look

after things naval. "The charge ashore" of the covering party he

considers a vast mistake, and his idea is that the authorities have

just discovered this too, and are reconsidering its advisability. A

few machine-guns could wipe us all out before we get ashore. We are to

be covered by the navy, but what is the use of big guns against

individuals planted everywhere in trenches. However it is not for us

"to reason why". My informant had been talking yesterday to the

Brigade Major, and on asking him if we were still going to Gallipoli

he said, "Oh, I think so".

_April 15th._--Prepared this morning to go ashore with full equipment

and lifebelt, but in the end no boat was available for the R.A.M.C.

Just after breakfast I met a naval man on the stair leading down to

the saloon, looking for the O.C. the troops, Col. Rooth, and he sent

him a message through me, introducing himself as the commander of our

covering ship. Looking over the rail I found H.M.S. "Cornwallis"

painted on his steam-launch.

6.15 p.m. Just returned from a five mile sail in a rowing boat, Morris

and I being determined to find the "Marquette" if she was among the

ships out in the offing, being anxious to get our letters, but she was

not there. We sorrowfully wheeled about and returned, encircling the

"Queen Elizabeth" with her eight 15-inch guns, then along to examine

the German ship "Acane Herksman," which struck one of their own mines

off Smyrna. A huge hole 7 or 8 feet wide had been blown in her bow

which must have flooded her in a minute or so, but I forget how she

was kept afloat. She was brought round here as a prize with her stern

heavily loaded with sandbags which tilted her bow completely out of

the water.

Our row was a most enjoyable one, and the men rowed with a will, all

expecting to get their home mail. The country round the bay was very

beautiful with its green cultivated fields near the water, and

complete circle of rugged hills, and the distant snowclad mountains

away to the far North. All returned hungry, and while enjoying a cup

of tea at a table of Engineer officers, we heard what is evidently the

latest proposal about the invasion of Gallipoli. Instead of landing us

from troopships we all go on battleships, which seems to us to be an

improvement. We are also likely to land at three if not four different

points at the same time. This new plan will likely take a few more

days to develop, so that we may expect a few days' grace yet. We have

very exact maps of Gallipoli on a large scale, with full accounts of

all the possible landing places and the interior, with soundings round

the whole peninsula, the nature and the amount of water to be expected

at various points, etc.

_April 16th._--Beautiful day; nothing stirring, even no fresh rumours

afloat. Had a long sail to-day again with Whyte and twenty-five men in

search of the "Marquette". Believing that the "Marquette's" new name

was "B. 8," I boarded "B. 9," which has been here for a day or two,

hoping the captain might be able to tell me something of her

movements, but he thinks she has not left Alexandria. This is a

terrible disappointment to us all, and as her load is mainly

horse-flesh it is likely true. Horses would suffer badly lying in the

harbour where the ventilation would be very bad and would mean death

to many of them. I think I omitted to state that we lost nineteen

horses between Avonmouth and Alexandria, this high death-rate being

due to the want of proper ventilation.

Whyte and I next went over a Hospital ship, the "Soudan"--which we saw

in Malta, but was lying here on our arrival. She has four lady nurses,

two of whom we saw. One can hardly imagine petticoats out here. We

both agreed that the sight of them did us a lot of good.

_April 17th._--Had breakfast at six, paraded at seven and stood on

deck till 10.45 waiting our turn to cross to a collier that is to be

used in the Gallipoli attack. The intention is to run her ashore at

full speed, ploughing into the sands, when her load of 2000 men are to

get overboard as best they can on to floating gangways. By a long

circuitous route we all got into our places, and were packed close on

the various decks which have had large square openings cut through the

iron plates of the sides of the ship, and from these and the upper

deck we have to decamp as quickly as possible.

But there is now a rumour that the 89th Ambulance may not have the

honour of participating in this dash. Whyte and I are greatly upset by

this rumour which we hope to goodness is nothing but a mistake on

Morris's part.

Went out in the afternoon looking for the "Marquette," but she has not

yet arrived. With some officers of the West Riding Engineers, Whyte

and I visited the "Queen Elizabeth," the most powerful ship afloat,

and went over her lower front turret, climbing by an iron ladder to

the top, lowering ourselves through a manhole and clattering down on

the floor behind the breeches of the guns. The muzzles of these guns

look enormous, but I was completely thunderstruck when I saw the two

great breeches side by side. They reminded me of two big engine

boilers. They must be about 6 feet in diameter and are probably not

less. The officer who took us round had a breech block swung back, and

we were allowed to examine everything freely.

_April 18th._--Started once more on the hunt for the "Marquette" (now

B. 13) and found her at last out in the offing waiting for medical

leave and orders to enter the harbour. Until she was medically

examined we were not allowed on board, and had to yell to our friends

on the upper deck and had a large mail bag lowered for the Ambulance.

My letters had been looked out by Stephen, and these were lowered in

his helmet at the end of a 2-inch rope.

We enjoyed the sail over an absolutely smooth sea, and being Sunday we

could hear and see that service was being conducted on several

warships and troopers. That warlike tune "Onward! Christian Soldiers"

was well played by a band on an Australian troopship, all singers and

non-singers on our boat joining in. "Queen Elizabeth" is familiarly

and affectionately known as "Lizzie" by all and sundry.

_April 19th._--To-day is warmer than we have felt it since we left

Mex. I have been observing all along how few birds are to be seen

here. I saw a few small ones the day I was on shore, but I have never

seen any of these flying over the bay or about the ships. The harbour

gets very filthy, and highly "smelly". All refuse is dumped overboard,

and pipes are continually discharging their filth from openings at

various levels all round each ship. Food of all kinds, especially

whole loaves and buns float about everywhere, enough to feed thousands

of gulls, if they would only come along and scavenge. To-day I counted

over thirty gulls in one flock, but I would not have believed before

that there were so many about the whole bay.

We had a call in the afternoon from our friends of the "Marquette"

with another mail bag. I had one letter and an Aberdeen "Evening

Express". Whyte and I returned with them and all had a very jovial

dinner together. The latest news from H.Q. on the Cunarder "Andania"

is that we are not to lose our post of honour after all. It was after

nine when we started for our own ship and had a pleasant and noisy

trip. We were challenged by "Lizzie" under whose stern we passed, with

"boat ahoy," and we had to explain who we were. Not one of the ships

is showing any light.

Our "Marquette" friends told us of a narrow escape they had had. On

their way from Alexandria they were immediately preceded by the

"Manitou" (B. 12), which had three torpedoes fired at her by a Turkish

torpedo boat, but at such close range that the torpedoes as they dived

into the sea from the deck, went so deep that they passed under the

ship. The "Manitou" is a sister ship of the "Marquette". Making sure

that their end had come there was a panic, and as a boat was being

lowered past the upper deck so many crowded on board that the davits

broke and the whole mass crashed down on another boat already in the

water, killing about forty.

_April 20th._--In the afternoon I visited the village of Mudros on the

south side of the harbour. There are several camps near this, and I

first visited the French Foreign Legion where there were troops from

many parts--Zouaves, Turcos, etc. I walked through the village which

was very interesting. The money-making Greek is taking advantage of

there being so many men about, and almost every house contains

something for sale, with numerous newly erected wooden shops near the

French quarters. Alcohol is cheap, a bottle of wine costing

sevenpence. There were fig trees in every garden, and dried figs for

sale, strung on string, which looked dry and filthy. Honey was much

in evidence, this part of the world producing enormous quantities of

this. The principal article of merchandise was Turkish delight. When

examining various articles at a stall, I chanced to open a box of this

and said "Turkish Delight!" "No, no, no," said the man, "Graeke

Delight!" The name "Turkish" will not do at present.

An old fellow, clean shaved except for an enormous moustache, took us

over his windmill, and it was strange to see the great wooden wheels

and wooden teeth all dry and creaking, no oil being used.

The wind had risen and it cost us an hour and a half's hard pulling to

cover less than a mile. A big gathering of men at the stern of our

ship watched our perplexity and began to sing "Pull for the shore,

sailor," which was replied to by volleys of oaths and threats of

vengeance. By this time my hands were badly blistered, and we had

smashed an oar so that our tempers were none of the best.

_April 21st._--Marching orders were received this morning. They run as

follows: "The object is to capture and dominate Kilid Bahr. The Royal

Naval Division is to make a feint attack on Bulair. The Australians

are to land at Kapa Teke. The 29th Division is to land at Helles

Burnu. The French are to land at Kum Kale on the Asiatic side.

"The 29th Division are to attack Kilid Bahr:--

"A. A force to land at Eski Hissarlik.

"B. A force west of Krithia.

"C. A force on the rest of the south of the peninsula.

"1. The first line of defence to be '114, '138, '141.

"2. The second through the "e" of Old Castle to join hands with Y.

Beach.

"3. From Eski Hissarlik to East of Krithia to '472.

"4. To capture Achi Baba and line running south of it.

"5. To occupy a line running East of Achi Baba to the sea; and west of

it to sea by 472.

"The covering force is the 86th Brigade, the South Wales Borderers,

1st King's Own Scottish Borderers, 2nd Hampshires less two companies,

Plymouth Royal Naval Division, West Riding Engineers, 1st Section

Royal London Engineers, and a tent-subdivision of the 87th Field

Ambulance, and a part of a tent-subdivision of the 88th Field

Ambulance, and three bearer-subdivisions of the 89th Field Ambulance.

"A hot meal is to be taken before leaving the ship.

"There will be a signal station at W. Beach, Divisional Head-quarters

on the 'Euryalus'.

"No water to be drunk till tested owing to the risk of its being

poisoned."

So ran the orders from our G.O.C. in C.--General Sir IAN HAMILTON.

On going on deck before breakfast I found everything had been arranged

for our departure this afternoon at four o'clock, and since then all

has been hurry and bustle. But from early morning till about 3 p.m. it

rained and the wind blew, and the whole world was in haze, and as it

had been arranged that Gallipoli was to be well bombarded by our ships

to-day before the army attempted a landing all had to be postponed for

another twenty-four hours.

_April 22nd._--To-day we gave the men their Iodine ampules for use

with their first field dressings, and distributed General

Hunter-Weston's address congratulating our Brigade on the honour done

us on receiving the chief post of danger in the coming attack, which

will likely be at daybreak on Saturday, April 24. Before the Turkish

trenches can be reached by our men it is expected that they will have

to get through a wire entanglement 25 feet wide and 6 feet high.

According to the present plans we are to be preceded by the Royal

Munster Fusiliers.

There is great activity in Lemnos Harbour this morning, especially

among the torpedo boats which have been flitting about at their

hardest. No boats have been allowed to leave our ship for two days,

the order being that this can only be done if to save life. Water,

which we were much in need of, was brought on board last night, and we

are ready to start off--and have been since yesterday at 4 p.m. the

appointed hour. But it would be contrary to all my experience if we

got away at the fixed time.

Fiddes arrived from the "Marquette" at lunch time and brought my

service cap, helmets having been recalled a week ago.

Lord Kitchener sent us the other day an account of the fighting at

Busorah, preparing us for what was before us. The Turks had fought

desperately, were well trained, and well led, and could only be turned

out of their trenches at the point of the bayonet.

General Sir Ian Hamilton, Commander-in-Chief of the Mediterranean

Force, sends us his address:--

"FORCE ORDER (SPECIAL),

"GENERAL HEAD-QUARTERS,

"_April 21, 1915._

"Soldiers of France and of the King!

"Before us lies an adventure unprecedented in modern war. Together

with our comrades of the fleet we are about to force a landing

upon an open beach in face of positions which have been vaunted by

our enemies as impregnable. The landing will be made good, by the

help of God and the Navy, the positions will be stormed, and the

war brought one step nearer to a glorious close.

"'Remember,' said Lord Kitchener, when bidding adieu to your

commander, 'Remember, once you set foot on the Gallipoli

Peninsula, you must fight the thing through to a finish'.

"The whole world will be watching our progress. Let us prove

ourselves worthy of the great feat of arms entrusted to us.

"(Signed) IAN HAMILTON, _General_."

_April 23rd._--Spent most of the forenoon on the "Caledonia" (B. iii),

which is lashed to our port side. Agassiz and Thomson arrived there

yesterday with nineteen men, forming one tent-subdivision, and go with

us.

A different atmosphere pervades our ship to-day, a feeling of strain

and anxiety is more or less on every mind, not that it would be

apparent to an outsider except in a case or two. Bad news has leaked

in all the time from the navy and our airmen, all the time this

getting worse, such as the account that Gallipoli swarms with

well-armed Turks, wire entanglements of great breadth and height

everywhere, and, of course, trenches. We have plans of their trenches

and gun emplacements, but these can only be roughly correct. Then

yesterday the airmen made another reconnaissance, and they say they

have found a great increase of guns. We may be outnumbered ten or

twelve to one, and our having to face their well-defended positions in

open boats is not altogether comforting, and naturally all feel a bit

anxious. General Hare, our Brigadier, spoke to me on the "Caledonia,"

and I thought he looked worried, and is thinner than when I saw him

last at Coventry. Col. Rooth of the Dublins does not look over happy.

He came down to lunch, had a look at the table, and went up to deck

with a cigarette, and at the present moment he stands near where I am

writing with both hands in his pockets, peering straight down the side

of the ship into the waters. Those of us with less responsibility are

certainly less troubled; all are prepared for great sacrifices, and

every one is ready to play his part in what will certainly be a great

tragedy.

The particular part of the coast on which I land with the 89th Field

Ambulance is a short way west of Sedd-el-Bahr, landing in the collier

"River Clyde," on which there will be a force of 2100. I have already

spoken about this boat. From what is going on I will be surprised if

we do not leave Lemnos to-night.

8.30 p.m. Off! We set sail from Lemnos at 4.57, two boats of the A.

class going out before us, but these two anchored outside while we led

straight on. On coming on deck after dinner we found three warships on

our starboard side, said to be the "Swiftsure," "Dublin," and

"Euryalus," all in line, no lights on them or us. Our port-holes are

covered first with cardboard and the iron shutters are down over it.

The sharer of my cabin (Lt. G.A. Balfour, a relative of the statesman)

and I wonder if we should sleep on deck, the atmosphere here will be

uncomfortably close. The evening as we started was perfect, warm and

absolutely calm. Now the moon looks watery and has a big halo, and

wind is prophesied by the ship's officers. We drag three large barges

alongside which prevent our going at much speed, and it is expected

that we will reach Tenedos about 3 a.m.

_April 24th._--Saturday. Reached Tenedos and cast anchor at 9.30 a.m.

We had been delayed by the wind rising and the waves dashed over our

lighters till they were nearly swamped. On our east we have the coast

of Asia with several high hills near the coast.

All the transports--not many yet arrived but B. s. i., ii., and iii.

form a little group--torpedo boats and destroyers, mine-sweepers, tugs

and other small fry lie in a bay, and as if for defence, and no doubt

that is their purpose, eight big battleships are drawn up in line

facing the open sea. The famous "Horse of Troy," the "River Clyde,"

lies near, and the thought of spending the coming night on her lowest

deck is not attractive. She is painted khaki on one side I see, but

only in patches, the idea evidently is to make her resemble a

sandstone rock--all very ingenious no doubt, but she will make a good

target in spite of her paint.

I said yesterday that all the officers looked anxious, but in the

evening all were their old selves exactly, and baccarat went on as

usual among the younger officers who sang all their usual songs and

yelled and laughed till midnight. I was in bed by ten and slept even

better than usual, and it was with an effort I got up at 8 o'clock.

The fact that I was in a new part and in the midst of a big fleet did

not even seem to interest me very much. Nor does the thought of

to-morrow disturb any one, and, as far as I can judge, it is not very

often in one's mind.

We lie on the north side of Tenedos, near the foot of Mount St. Elias.

Several of us were guessing the height of this hill, and none put it

at over 250 feet although its actual height is 625 feet.

At 3 p.m. came a naval message ordering us all to be ready for

transfer to our respective boats at 3.45--all hurry and bustle. I have

loaded up and am at present guarding a pile of coats, water-bottles,

etc., belonging to our men who have hurried off to the galley to get

their last meal for the day. The sea has been rough all day but is now

calmer, and there is every prospect of fine weather for to-morrow's

murderous work. Away to the east the Asiatic coast is beautifully lit

up by the setting sun, also the yellow rocks that stretch to Kum Kale

on the south of the entrance to the Dardanelles, while the hills on

Gallipoli are visible but in haze. From my present post I look over

the Plain of Troy to the high mountains beyond. To-morrow it is to be

Troy Field and the wooden horse of Troy all over again.

10.30 p.m.--Arrived on coal boat at 6.30. Place in stern fitted up for

officers' supper; two lime barrels and a few rough boards form table:

whisky: tinned meat: biscuits: 2200 of us on board: all happy and fit.

We start in two hours: only 12 or 13 miles to go: then anchor 1-1/2

miles from land and wait for daylight and bombardment; then at proper

moment rush in: said that coast is to be battered with 150,000 shells.

Supper finished some time ago and am writing this in the mess I have

just mentioned. Some sleeping or pretending; others smoking; I doing

latter and sitting on board after trying to snooze with head on a big

box and less high one in small of back; but too uncomfortable for

anything, so whipped out my "bookie" and scribbled; light bad, only an

oily lamp with glass smoked black, and nearly 20 feet distant. Queer

scene altogether.

_April 25th._--Sunday is just ten minutes old, and the ship's screw

has started--we are off!

_Later._--Still Sunday the 25th--5.15 p.m.

Hell with the lid off! Yes, I know what hell is, nor do I believe

anyone in the world knows better. To-day I have seen shells plunging

through the ship's hold in which I was, carrying off heads and legs,

but my pulse has not once given an extra beat. "My word, sir," said a

tar coming up to me, "you have a nerve." Tars have no lack of nerve as

I have seen to-day, and I felt vastly proud of the compliment. Three

of our Generals are reported on the casualty list, and Col.

Smith-Carrington shot through the head on the bridge of our ship.

The bombardment commenced at 4.50 a.m. and was expected to carry on

for an hour or a little over, but after twelve hours of the most

terrific cannonade ever experienced in this world it has not yet come

to an end. Now at 5.30 an occasional shot comes from a battleship.

The constant roar has made my head ache, and I am dead tired, having

worked hard all day, and I must give an account of this another day.

_April 26th._--The battle of Sedd-el-Bahr still rages, and with a fury

but little less than yesterday. Yesterday was a very hard day, after

attending wounded almost continuously up to 8.30 p.m. I volunteered to

go ashore to see the wounded on the beach. The dead and dying were

here in hundreds. Before I got back to the ship at 4 this morning I

had a very hot time of it, and cannot understand why I am not a dead

man. We were told yesterday that a counter-attack was to be made and

that the Turks intended to blow the ship to pieces with cannon, which

they were to bring up in the night. When the attack did come I gave up

all hopes of anything but slaughter, as the men we had on land were

insufficient in number to meet a large force.

About fifty men were leaving the ship when this started, and at the

sound of the firing all fell flat on their faces, and if any one dared

to move he was at once fired at. Some one on a barge next the small

boat in which I had taken shelter asked if he could crawl into our

boat, but I dared him or anyone else to move as such movement would

only draw fire on every one of us. Not a man stirred, but lay on his

face from midnight to 4 o'clock. It was not till the end of the attack

that I learned these men had an officer with them. As I lay in the

boat I shouted to them that an assault on us was likely, and ordered

them to load and fix bayonets, and to see that all had plenty of

ammunition. Extra bandoliers of cartridges were passed up from the

rear, each pushing these along with a clatter. All this with the red

cross on my arm! And with loaded revolver in hand I was prepared to

die game.

The wounds I saw yesterday were in every part of the body, and most

were severe, and the death-rate in proportion to wounded will be very

high, many having four or five wounds.

Snipers are giving an extraordinary amount of trouble, the ground

yielding itself to numerous hiding places overlooking our beach, about

the rocks on our left as well as the immense old fort. The end of the

fort nearest us is now but a jumble of huge stones and is an excellent

place for snipers. A number of jackdaws and three huge storks had

their dwelling here and have now to live pretty much in the heavens,

circling over their old home in an excited condition.

It is now but 11.30 a.m. and I have been having a rest preparatory to

the advance we are to make this afternoon. I have not had a wink of

sleep since the 24th.

We join up with the French this afternoon. How the guns still thunder!

The "Queen Elizabeth" with her 15-inch guns thundering over our heads

as we rushed in past her at close quarters seemed to make our boat of

6600 tons sink some way in the water at every broadside. I was

surprised to find that the heavy gunfire gave me no trouble, although

like most of the others I began with cotton wool in my ears, but half

an hour of this was enough, it interfered with sounds it was necessary

to hear.

Here I am writing in the midst of one of the greatest battles in

history. Any bombardment this world has ever known was a mere

bagatelle to this.

To-day we had a naval funeral of General Napier and Colonel

Smith-Carrington. The former was killed on a barge attached to us, and

the other on the bridge. No one is to be present but the Catholic

padre. A number of men are to be buried at the same time. The orders I

received stated that all bodies had to be got rid of before we

advanced. A pinnace from a warship was signalled for and all were

taken out to sea.

Our advance from the shore began to-day about noon, our men lining out

along the sands and the banks above, and gradually getting forward by

short rushes. Barbed wire had also to be cut. But the advance through

the village was the most difficult, as the remains of houses and

garden walls contained snipers. I almost shiver to look back on a mad

thing I did to-day--mad because it was done out of mere curiosity. I

was asked to go to "Old Fort" beyond the village, near the outermost

capture for to-day to see Colonel Doughty-Wylie and Major Grimshaw who

were reported badly wounded. Both were dead, and as I was about to

return I was next asked if I would go to a garden at the top of the

village to see some wounded men. Afterwards I went right through the

village alone, with only my revolver in my hand, and from the houses

sniping was still going on. I had been assured that it was supposed to

be safe. I peered into a number of wrecked houses--every house had

been blown to bits--and I had not long returned when sniping commenced

from a prominent corner house I had just passed. The only living

things I saw in the village were two cats and a dog. I was very sorry

for a cat that had cuddled close to the face of a dead Turk in the

street, one leg embracing the top of his head. I went up to stroke and

sympathise with it for the loss of what I took to be its master, when

I found that the upper part of the man's head had been blown away, and

the cat was enjoying a meal of human brains. The dog followed till I

came upon three Dublin Fusiliers, who wished to shoot it straight away

when I pleaded for it, but one of them had a shot at it when my back

was turned and the poor brute went off howling. I had done my best,

when going along the fosse of the "Old Fort," to save a badly wounded

Turk from three of another battalion who were standing over him and

discussing the advisability of putting an end to him, but I am afraid

my interference was in vain here also.

Away beyond the heights we have taken to-day the country is very

pretty with plenty of trees and vegetation. Here I saw dead and

wounded Turks in abundance, especially at some of their own wire

entanglements, several wounded being stretched out on the wires. Their

wire is very barbarous and has long, closely set spikes, and the

position must have been anything but comfortable.

Another counter-attack--the third--has just been made, and one of our

battleships has joined in.

The Dublins, whose officers I have associated most with, have only

three of these left out of twenty-seven. I came across two of these

to-day--Padre Finn, R.C. Chaplain, whom I knew well and greatly

respected, I found at the edge of the sea, with his clothes thrown

open exhibiting a wound in the chest. And in the village, all huddled

up among long weeds and nettles I found a lieutenant who sat at my

table on the "Ausonia"--Bernard. In both cases death must have been

instantaneous.

Here comes a fourth attack. Our boys are to have a night of it.

To-day only about eighteen shells were fired at the "River Clyde" all

from the Asiatic side, only one hitting. We were putting wounded on

board at the time and most of the shots were directed against these

operations.

I have had no sleep since I left Tenedos, but to-night I feel very

fresh, although the day has been long and busy.

All who know are quite satisfied with to-day's progress, and the hope

that the worst is over cheers one. To-morrow we will have to move on,

we must keep the Turks on the run. Some of the prisoners taken to-day

are German.

(Being unable in my letters to my wife to give a full account of all

that was doing, my diary was meant to fill in gaps, and as I had sent

home a fairly full account of the landing much is omitted here, and I

will give a more extended description as seen by myself. About this

time in particular my diary had to be written at odd moments, and it

was rare that I could go far without being disturbed, and writing a

few sentences half a dozen times a day, or even oftener, often ended

in a jumble.)

Of the five British landings the one at Sedd-el-Bahr (V. Beach) was

the most difficult and disastrous.

On the 24th of April we were still lying at Tenedos, and in the

afternoon were transferred to the "River Clyde". We learned the

previous day that we were to land from this old coal boat that had

been rendered so peculiar with her great, gaping holes, and khaki

splashes on her starboard side. She had been an object of curiosity to

us in Lemnos harbour, no one having any idea of her purpose.

Before dark all the men were served with tea and food, which we were

told was to be their last solid meal. Soon after this the men retired

to rest in a hold near the stern which had been allotted to the West

Riding Engineers and ourselves. The officers took up their quarters in

the stern deck house, where we had cocoa, tinned meat, etc., after

which we too tried to make ourselves as comfortable as possible in the

most uncomfortable of all quarters, most shutting their eyes and

pretending to be asleep.

Our nerves were now fully strung, we knew we were on the very eve of

the landing, which we were assured was to be rendered easy by the

Navy, which had promised that their bombardment was to be so terrific

that nothing the size of a cockroach would be left alive on the

peninsula. We soon learned to our cost how difficult it was to

substantiate this assertion.

From Tenedos we were but a small party of ships. In the pitchy

darkness we had fallen in with the bigger fleet coming direct from

Lemnos, and as we crept along, every ship in total darkness, we could

just make out other ships alongside us. One with big hull and unusual

length of guns was immediately on our port. At close quarters there

was no mistaking this for anything but a dummy warship.

After a time the searchlight on the point of the peninsula could be

seen sweeping its rays in long, regular flashes across the sea. By

this time those ships that had furthest to go were ahead of us to the

right and left. Just as the inky darkness was beginning to be

dispelled there was a change in these lazy flashes. We were detected.

At once they changed their long, comprehensive sweeps into sharp jerks

from one ship to another as each hove into the rays. The searchlight

soon went out, while hurried messages were no doubt being flashed over

the wires to Constantinople and many points in our immediate

neighbourhood, announcing our long-expected arrival.

Soon the guns began to roar, the first I heard being to our left up

the Gulf of Saros, but in a few minutes all the ships had joined in

the chorus, from what was afterwards known as Anzac all round the

point and some way up the Dardanelles. A grand roar such as the world

had never heard. The peninsula was quickly one dense cloud of

poisonous-looking yellow-black smoke, through which flashes of

bursting shells were to be seen everywhere. It was truly a magnificent

sight, and the roar of the guns stirred one's blood like some martial

skirl from the bagpipes. The feeling one had was a longing for them to

hurry up and do their work, and let us get at the Turk at close

quarters.

Our old ship crept slowly in through the ring of warships, took a

circular turn just as we were passing through the line--apparently we

were in too great a hurry--then we straightened our course and passed

close past our covering ship, "Queen Elizabeth," the finest ship in

the whole Navy, and which had been detailed to look after us. How her

guns roared as she poured out broadside, as we passed by her port

side, straight in on full steam for the strip of sand under the

village and fort of Sedd-el-Bahr.

Unable from our hold to see properly what was doing, I had spent most

of the time on deck, and when about 200 yards from land I darted down

below to warn the men to lie down in case we struck rock, when the

impact would have been violent. I held on to a stanchion. We were fast

in the sand before I was really aware that the ship was aground--there

to lie for four years, to be shot at constantly whilst we occupied

Gallipoli, but in spite of all her buffeting to serve many uses, and

finally to become an object of veneration, "as holy as Westminster

Abbey" some one says of her in "The Sphere". For the 2100 of us on

board there was to be no retreat whatever happened. We had crossed the

Rubicon and burned our boats.

On board we had the 1st Munster Fusiliers, two companies of the 1st

Dublin Fusiliers, one company of Hants, 100 marines, a few of the

Signal Company, the West Riding Engineers, and 124 stretcher-bearers

of the 89th Field Ambulance.

We had been dragging along huge barges on either side, enough to form

a couple of gangways, had they only behaved as was intended. When the

ship struck, the momentum these had on should have been enough to keep

them on their way till they grounded ahead of us, drawing but very

little water as they did; but somehow or other this part was a

failure, they grounded too soon, then broke away from each other. The

men had then to get ashore in open boats manned by the marines we had

on board. This was at once pushed on, boat after boat left the ship's

side for the beach, perhaps 30 yards off, terrific machine-gunfire

sweeping each boat.

The first few loads escaped with comparatively few casualties, but

soon the fire was so hot and accurate that practically not a man got

to the shelter of the 10 to 12-foot high sandbank beyond the narrow

strip of sand. About 300 yards to our left was a high projecting rock,

a continuation of the high ground that closed in that side of the long

slope of V. Beach, and from here came that infernal shower of bullets

that was causing such terrible havoc. From the "Clyde" one could

easily tell where the bullets were coming from by their sputter in the

water.

A constant stream of shells was being kept up all the time on this

rock from the ships. The whole rim of V. Beach, as it stretched

backwards for 500 or 600 yards, was searched time after time by high

explosives, each shell bursting with accurate precision 5 or 6 feet

under the crest. But the mischief was not coming from this crest, it

was from that infernal rock alone, but in spite of all their efforts

our guns could not silence this machine-gunfire.

It was an extraordinary sight to watch our men go off, boat after

boat, push off for a few yards, spring from the seats to dash into the

water which was now less than waist deep. It was just on this point

that the enemy fire was concentrated. Those who got into the water,

rifle in hand and heavy pack on back, generally made a dive forward

riddled through and through, if there was still life in them to drown

in a few seconds. Many were being hit before they had time to spring

from the boats, their hands were thrown up in the air, or else they

heaved helplessly over stone dead. All this I watched from the holes

in the side of the ship, but when not otherwise occupied, from the

deck where I could see on all sides.

But soon we of the Field Ambulance had other work to do. Many of the

boats had all their rowers killed and never returned, others were able

to push back, generally with most of their marines laid out, but with

sufficient left to man a boat. Back they came to our starboard hole,

and the wounded were lifted up to us and attended to. Repeatedly the

whole of our floor was covered with wounded and dead men; a pinnace

would arrive from a ship and relieve us of our wounded, but we filled

up again almost at once.

Along the water's edge there was now a mass of dead men, on the sand a

mixture of dead and weltering wounded, while a fair number had reached

the sandbank just beyond, where, under an enfilading fire from the

rock, they scraped themselves into the recesses. Boats from the other

ships were being towed in in threes by pinnaces, till close to the

beach when the pinnaces wheeled about, and for the last short distance

they had to trust to their oars. Those landing to our right and left

as they came in from the other ships were faring no better than those

from the "Clyde". One boat half-way to the rock, and which had been

left stranded, had three men caught in the festooned rope that runs

round the gunwale. Into this they had dived, probably as the boat

heeled over to that side and the rope had floated outwards, and there

they swung for the rest of the day, two not moving a muscle and

evidently dead, but for long I could see the other poor fellow stretch

out his arms time after time, but before evening he too was still.

They still kept splashing on between the boats and the sand, dived

forward and fell dead at once, or were drowned, till at last it was

seen that it was useless to continue such slaughter to no purpose, and

the landing at this point had to be given up for the time being.

After the hellish morning we had had, the afternoon thus became

comparatively quiet. Those who were still unwounded made for the ruins

of the round tower of the fort, slightly to our right. Round this pile

of stones they peered, looking for the Turk, who was always found,

but here there were but few shots exchanged, as the Turks advanced our

men made a rush backwards, or to the sands below, in time to prowl

forward once more to have another look, and make the same rush back.

Then came night with its full moon. An attempt was made to land more

men about 8 o'clock. These were fired on and again we had to desist.

About 8.30 an officer on shore made a dash for our ship, and on

describing the terrible condition and suffering of the wounded who had

been in the sandbank for about fourteen hours, I decided to go to

their assistance. We had previously been officially warned that it

would be impossible for any of the Ambulance to land before morning,

but heedless of this I set off alone over the barges and splashed

through the remaining few yards of water. Here most of those still

alive were wounded more or less severely, and I set to work on them,

removing many useless and harmful tourniquets for one thing, and

worked my way to the left towards the high rocks where the snipers

still were. All the wounded on this side I attended to, an officer

accompanying me all the time. I then went to the other side, and after

seeing to all in the sand my companion left me, and I next went to a

long, low rock which projected into the water for about 20 yards a

short way to the right of the "Clyde". Here the dead and wounded were

heaped together two and three deep, and it was among these I had my

hardest work. All had to be disentangled single-handed from their

uncomfortable positions, some lying with head and shoulders in the

tideless water, with broken legs in some cases dangling on a higher

level.

At the very point of this rock, which had been a favourite spot for

the boats to steer to, there was a solid mass of dead and wounded

mixed up together. The whole of these I saw to, although by this time

there was little I could do except lift and pull them into more

comfortable positions, but I was able to do something for every one of

them. My last piece of work was to look after six men who were

groaning in a boat stranded close to the point of the rock. Three lay

on each side with their legs inwards; a plank ran the whole length of

the middle of the boat, and along this as it rested on their legs, men

had been running during the landing. Getting on this plank some of

them howled in agony and beseeched me to get off. I then got into the

water and as I could do nothing more for them, my dressings being

finished some time before, I gave each a dose of morphia by the mouth.

I had just finished and was standing waist-deep in the water when the

Turkish counter-attack commenced with a volley from the distant end of

the fort, not over 300 yards off. The only person the Turk could see

was myself, the sandbank protecting the others from view, and at least

seven or eight bullets spluttered round me in the water. I had been

well warned that this counter-attack would take place at any moment,

but I never gave it a single thought. It was in anticipation of this

that the others clung to the shelter of the sandbank and I was left to

work alone. I immediately splashed for a small boat that formed the

end of one of the gangways, and into this I hauled myself. On looking

at my watch I found it was just midnight, and that I had thus been at

work for three and a half hours.

Midnight had evidently been chosen by the Turk as the hour at which to

attack, and also by us to make another attempt to land men. At this

moment a body of our men were coming along the gangway, the first of

them being close to this boat which was on a slightly lower level than

the barges that formed the bulk of the gangway. The five foremost

threw themselves into my boat and we lay stretched across the seats,

the men on the barges lying down at once where they were. Here none

of us had any protection, and it was a miracle any one of us escaped,

the fire from machine-guns and rifles was so terrific. Each bullet as

it struck the "Clyde" drove sparks, while the old ship was ringing

like a great bell. Two of our six were hit, the man stretched

alongside me fatally. A seventh man in the water hauled himself in

beside us, and as he was getting over the gunwale shouted, "Oh! I am

hit". Hit or not hit we could not pay the slightest attention to each

other now, all we could do was to lie low.

All this time I was expecting a rush for the "Clyde" by the Turks, and

the boat I was in would be the first part of the gangway they would

reach, and I could not help wondering what it would be like to get a

bayonet through my stomach, but the feeling that this would certainly

happen was not half so terrible as I should have expected. I had my

revolver in my hand all the time, and it was a comfort to think that I

would almost certainly account for two or three Turks before I

experienced this new sensation.

The fire was kept up for about four hours, mainly on the side of the

ship. As soon as there was a lull an officer in my boat shouted out.

"This won't do, we must now land, follow me." He got up and splashed

ashore, but the men, thinking he had been too hasty, preferred to wait

a little longer after the Turks had ceased fire, but soon they began

to move and dash singly for the land. I wished to get on the ship, and

not half liking to get into an upright position either, I crept

through and over those still on the barges, amidst much cursing from

my paining the wounded, who must have been numerous.

I had had a strenuous and exciting day and night, and I must say I

felt it a relief when I hopped through the nearest hole in the

"Clyde". It was now 4 o'clock, and I shivered with cold. I had been

soaked over the head, and lying four hours in the open boat in a cold

night it was impossible to keep warm. A big, black cloud had floated

up over the moon, and we had a fairly sharp but short shower of rain.

By this time the moon was nearing the horizon, and it was when another

cloud came over her face that I succeeded in reaching the ship.

I found they had had a fairly trying time here too, although the

ship's plates were thick enough to resist bullets. The noise of

100,000 bullets showering on the sides of the "Clyde" had caused a

deafening din, and many had the wind up badly, not knowing what was

going on outside.

The behaviour of the "River Clyde" had been a great puzzle to the

Turks. She was not long aground when the guns on Kum Kale, across the

Dardanelles, opened on us, and this fire was kept up the whole day--on

us and us only as far as I could make out. It took them some time to

get our range, and for a considerable time we were not hit, all the

shells being shorts or overs. At last they got us, the first shell

that hit going through our hold at an angle of 45 degrees, coming

through the deck over our heads, and going out at the junction of the

floor and side wall. In its course it struck a man on the head, this

being splashed all through the hold. Another man squatting on the

floor was hit about the middle of both thighs, one leg being

completely severed, while the other hung by a tiny shred of skin only.

He fell back with a howl with both stumps in the air.

In five minutes a second shell entered our hold, wounding two or three

where we were, mostly by the buckling of the floor plates, then

passing down below to the lowest hold where many men were sheltering

under the water line. Here six or seven were laid out.

After this we had many narrow escapes, but I believe only two other

shells actually struck the ship that day. By good luck none exploded

in their passage through, otherwise the casualty list would have been

very heavy. Many had been hit and killed on deck by machine-gun

bullets, and many bullets had found their way through the small

openings cut for working the twelve machine-guns that were placed

there.

(I have the kind permission of the author, a scholarly and

much-respected member of our Corps, to insert the following poem which

appeared in "The British Weekly" and one of the Aberdeen papers.)