CHAPTER X

THE FUTURE OF THE BALKANS

We have seen that a blood-mist has hung over the Balkans during all the

centuries that history knows. Nature set up there lists for the great

contests of races--on the path from the cold north of Europe to the warm

south; on the path from Asia to Europe; and each great campaign left

behind it shreds of devastated peoples. These shreds of peoples dwelling

in the Balkans to-day have a blood-thirst as an inescapable heritage.

Turk, Bulgar, Serb, Roumanian, Greek--they may hold the peace for a

time, and some may try to think that they are friends with others; but

all have something of hate or fear or contempt for the others, and all

prepare in peace for the next fight.

The Fates making the Balkan Peninsula the battle-ground of empires and

races, the field of last stands, the refuge of residual fragments of

peoples, imposed upon it its bloody tradition. Under other conditions,

Serb or Bulgar or Greek or Turk or Roumanian left to themselves might

have made happier history. For all these races can be human, reasonable,

companionable. I have seen something of all of them in following a

Balkan campaign as a war correspondent (not following always as the

sheltered guest of an army, but forcing a solitary path through the

peasant population), and in watching the wonderful acrobatic lying of a

Balkan Peace Conference have seen thus the best and the worst of them. I

have been an unofficial member of a Bulgarian court-martial; the guest

of a dozen and more Bulgarian and Serbian army outposts, dependent often

for food and shelter on the kindness of peasant soldiers; for days have

held at the mercy of Balkan peasants my life and my property; have been

mistaken for a wandering Turk twice, and have never suffered violence,

rudeness, or the loss of a pennyworth. For the peasants, the commonfolk

of all the Balkan peoples, I have come thus to a hearty liking; their

priests and politicians (with a few exceptions), a different feeling.

Knowing that the massacre is the national sport in many districts of

the Balkans; that at the outbreak of the 1912 war the death-rate by

violence actually decreased in some quarters because the killing was

systematised a little and put under a sort of regulation; that always

Turks and Exarchate Christians and Patriarchate Christians are plotting

against one another new raids and murders, still I maintain that, if

left to themselves, if freed from the prompting of priests and

politicians the Balkan peasants of any race are quite decent folk. So I

wish heartily that there was fair reason to hope for peace and happiness

for them. Is there fair reason? To that question a study of the races

and the personalities can give clues for an answer.

[Illustration: _Underwood & Underwood_

ALBANIAN TRIBESMEN]

The Bulgarian is dour, dull, a little greedy, honest, very industrious.

He is almost as much a Turk as a Slav. (I was told that during the

Turkish occupation a Bulgarian mother finding herself with child after

violence by a Turk brought up the child with her family, whilst a

Serbian mother under the same circumstances killed the infant at birth.)

The Bulgarian is very moral, marrying at an early age.

The Bulgarian peasant soldiers were very honest and loyal. At Mustapha

Pasha one night, being short of food, I tried to get bread at the

military bakery (all bread and flour having been requisitioned for the

army). I offered a soldier up to five francs for a loaf without tempting

him to sell it. Finally I had to get bread as a charity by declaring

that I was actually in want of it for food. Later, travelling between

Silivri and Chatalja, I encountered four Bulgarian foot soldiers who had

become separated from their regiment and were starving. They asked for

food and I gave them all I could spare, enough for two meals. One of the

men produced a purse and took out some coppers wishing to pay.

Travelling across Thrace (then in Bulgarian occupation), I often put up

at some military post, being invited to become a member of the little

mess--usually an official or two and four or five non-commissioned

officers. Nearly always I had the same experience, that I was made free

of the stewed goat and rice, or the dish of eggs and flour, or the bread

and cheese of the Bulgarians, and when I wished to add from my stores

chocolate and biscuits and dates, just a scrap or two would be taken. I

could see the men's eyes hungering for the delicacies, but nothing would

induce them to take anything material from my stores.

The Bulgarian peasant soldier and officer I found, in short, to be a

gentleman. Yet nationally Bulgaria is not "a gentleman," and has come to

its present sorry state, I believe, largely on that account. The old

Bulgarian aristocracy was exterminated by the Turks. The surviving

Bulgarian peasantry has not yet been able to produce another

aristocracy. It is the more cunning rather than the more worthy son of

the peasant who wins to a sort of an education--often abroad--and

becomes the lawyer, politician, official. In very many cases he carries

with him into a higher stratum of society few of his peasant virtues and

all of his peasant faults. He gets an overweening pride in his own

acuteness. He becomes arrogant, "too-clever-by-half," and intrigue

teaches him cruelty. I can contrast vividly two Bulgarian types in a

noted diplomat, who fancied himself a Bismarck and had about the wits of

an office boy, and an old peasant captain with whom I travelled from

Kirk Kilisse to Chorlu. Generalising, the "leading men" in Bulgaria are

of a poor type (there are exceptions), the leading priests of a still

poorer type; the people themselves are a sound people, and when the

ambitious among them contrive to preserve their peasant virtues through

the ordeal of education they will become a great people.

The Bulgarian did not seem to me naturally cruel. All the time that I

was with the main army I saw no trace of outrage or cruelty. I did see

several instances of curt and merciful justice.

I arrived one night at the Tchundra River alone, having gone forward

from my ox cart because the miserable Macedonian driver and the still

more miserable Bulgarian servant I had (I suspect he was in training for

the diplomatic service) could not be induced to do a fair day's march. A

vedette outpost of five men held the bridge. They took me--as I judged

from their gestures rather than from their language, of which I

understood only one word, "Turc"--for a Turk. But they let me stay

unmolested at their camp fire for an hour until an officer who spoke

French appeared. I could give several similar instances. Never did I

feel nervous in the least when making my way alone through the country

in Bulgarian occupation (most of the time I was alone, for after a while

I dropped my Macedonian and my Bulgarian servant).

[Illustration: _See page_ 190

GREEK INFANTRY]

The Turk I found disappointing. I had pictured a romantic individual

with a Circassian harem, a stable of Arab steeds, and a fierce and

warlike manner. I found the Turk to be rather a shabby individual;

monogamous usually (but with the free and easy ideas as to his rights

over Christian women which are almost consequent upon his philosophy of

life, and cause most of the trouble when the Turk lives by the side of a

Christian population); much addicted to sweetmeats--his shops were full

of Scotch lollies and English biscuits. Certainly most of the Turks I

have encountered were prisoners or dwelling in conquered country. But,

making all allowance for that, the traditional fiery Turk of martial

fame no longer exists, I should say, in European Turkey. The Turkish

prisoners in the hands of the Bulgarians seemed to be glad to have

arrived at a fate which meant regular food. In old Bulgaria I found

Turks living quite contentedly under Christian rule, and in many cases

following menial occupations. The boot-blacks in the streets were Turks,

the porters were Turks.

I had a Turkish driver for five days once from Kirk Kilisse to Mustapha

Pasha. The first hour of our acquaintance he won my heart by telling me

(through an interpreter) that since his horses had been requisitioned by

the Bulgarians, he had not been able to get proper food for them, and he

embraced his ponies, which were really in rather good condition. I

applauded the noble Turk and his love for horses, and bought tobacco for

him which he welcomed with tears of joy, as he had been without it for

long. The horses carried the cart a gallant thirty miles that day, and

we camped at a burned-out village. Mr. Turk set himself to enjoy a smoke

over the fire. My own supper I prepared, and gave him some to eke out

his bread and cheese, and then told him to water and feed the horses.

Because the well was 400 yards away and the tobacco was sweet and the

fire comforting, the Turk had no wish to do this, but was ready to let

them go through the night without food or water. I had to threaten to

flog him (and to start to do it) before he would attend to the horses.

Yet after that incident I slept in the cart without a thought that the

Turk would consider himself offended and cut my throat. As a matter of

fact the touch of the whip did not rankle with him, and at Mustapha

Pasha when, the journey ended, I gave him a little money for himself,

Mr. Turk prostrated himself in gratitude.

I believe that the warlike virtues have died out of the Turk in Europe.

Of other nation-making and nation-maintaining qualities he has none. In

all Turkey from the borders of Bulgaria to the lines of Chatalja, I

found no roads, no street lamps, no drainage, no water supply (I was not

in Adrianople). Except for a few agricultural peasants I found nowhere

the Turk doing any useful work. In a characteristic Turkish town the

shops were kept by Greeks, the industries carried on by Greeks,

Macedonians, and Bulgarians. The Turk was the tax-collector, the

official, the soldier, and did none of these things well. That acute

observer of the Turkish character, Mr. L. March Phillips, in his book

_In the Desert_ upholds that the Turk is impossible as a civilising

force:

Or, for a third example, come to the craggy hills of Southern

Albania, and mix, if but for half an hour, with the armed

shepherds, as wild and intractable as their own crags, or as the

gaunt dogs which guard their flocks from the wolves, and whose

attentions to strangers you are apt to find such a nuisance. You

will understand from the first glance at the men more of the

interminable Balkan difficulty than newspapers and books can ever

teach you. These are the fellows who swoop down from their peaks on

the mixed races of the plains and carry fire and slaughter through

village and valley. Their natural aptitude for fighting and

foraging, for bearing things with a strong hand, for cowing the

weak and feeble, for vindicating the old "might is right" theory,

is written all over them. You see it in their gait, glance, walk,

and manner, you hear it in every accent of their voice, you feel it

in their individuality and presence.

These are specimens of the Moslem type, the type that stops short

at the virile virtues, that makes the best host and worst neighbour

in the world, that has many splendid qualities to recommend it, but

to which all that makes life profound and inexhaustible is a dead

letter. It is the most strongly marked and salient type I have ever

met with. There is the Moslem walk, the Moslem scowl, the Moslem

courtesy, the Moslem dignity, the Moslem carriage and attitudes and

features, the Moslem composure, and the Moslem fury. All these

traits and characteristics, inspired by the same temper, expressing

the same ideal, conspire to depict a figure so notable that you

must be a dull observer indeed if you cannot pick him out from a

mixed crowd as you would pick out a Chinaman in the London streets.

Some people say it is the religion that creates the type. "There,"

they say of Mohammedanism, "is a religion that breeds men." It

would be truer, I think, to say that Mohammedanism recommends

itself to men at a certain stage of their development, and has for

that stage a natural affinity. Every race goes through a time when

the virile estimate of life and the splendour of self-assertion

seem the finest things possible. It is at this time it is open to

the attack of El Islam. The Moslem religion answers all its needs

at this stage, and lays good hold of it, and having once laid hold

of it, it sanctifies the ideas belonging to this stage, and so

tends to restrict the race to it. There is no instance on record of

a people having embraced Mohammedanism and afterwards achieving a

complete, or what gives promise of ever becoming a complete,

civilisation.

During my stay in the Balkans I found no certain evidence of Turkish

cruelty. There was plenty of evidence offered by the Bulgarians, but it

usually smelt of the lamp of some patriotic journalist of Sofia. Once

near Mustapha Pasha--when all the war correspondents were cooped up

under strict censorship, prevented from seeing any of the operations

around Adrianople--the Bulgarians found it necessary to burn a village

for strategic reasons. The chance was offered to the Press photographers

of seeing this, if it were represented in their pictures as the

atrocious burning of a village by the Turks. I believe that the offer

was accepted by some. The "atrocities" by Turks, regularly recorded by

the Bulgarian Press Bureau were, as far as the main theatre of

operations was concerned, founded on similar evidence. During its first

phase I believe that the war was very humanely conducted on all sides.

In Macedonia, of course, there were some deplorable atrocities, but I

believe the normal massacre conditions there were rather bettered than

otherwise by the outbreak of war.

To sum up the Turk, I do not think he will survive for long in Europe.

As a matter of hard fact there really are not many real Turks left in

Europe.

The Serbian, with his highlander the Montenegrin, is a far more engaging

personality than the Bulgarian. He lacks the stubborn, dour courage of

his neighbour, but he has more _élan_. In military life the Bulgarian

would supply incomparable infantry, the Serbians be superior in

artillery and cavalry. In social life the Serbian is convivial and

hospitable. Whilst the Bulgarian wishes to go to bed early that he may

get up early and push the road he is making along a little farther, the

Serbian will keep you at his dinner-table drinking and singing until far

into the morning. He is not troubling about a road.

When the Serbian army came to help the Bulgarians in the siege of

Adrianople, the contrast between the two armies and the two camps was

great. The Serbian men were smarter, better equipped, their quarters

cleaner, and from their mess tents would come by night the sound of

revelry. One might imagine Roundheads and Cavaliers camping side by

side.

The Allies did not fraternise. For that I blamed the Bulgarians. The

positions in regard to the Serbian aid at Adrianople, as I understood

it, was this: that originally the Bulgarians engaged to help the

Serbians in their campaign, but this was found not to be necessary: that

the Bulgarians, later, asked for aid against Adrianople, and it was

promptly given without any conditions being imposed, though there then

already existed in the Serbian mind a desire to modify the territorial

partition arrangement they had with Bulgaria and this request for aid

might have been taken as a good opportunity for raising that question. I

believe those to be the facts, but since in Balkan diplomacy it is

always a matter of finding out the truth of comparing and weighing and

deducing from a series of lies, I cannot state them with absolute

certainty. If they are true, the Serbians behaved like gentlemen in not

raising against an ally an awkward question at a time when help was

asked. Quite certainly the Bulgarian authorities behaved like boors to

their Serbian friends. Things were made as unpleasant as was reasonably

possible for them in all kinds of niggling ways around Adrianople. The

Serbians behaved well under great provocation.

During the first sessions of the Balkan Peace Conference I had

opportunities of observing the same good behaviour on the part of the

Serbians. Bulgarian diplomacy was, as usual, very exasperating. It was

not only that Bulgaria was insisting on having the hide, horn, and hoofs

of Turkey, but also on rubbing salt into her bare carcase. The Turkish

delegates approached the Serbians--whose territorial demands as far as

Turkey was concerned were satisfied, but who had a pending controversy

with the Bulgarians--hoping to get some moral support against Bulgaria

and being prepared to offer something in return. The Serbian attitude

was sharply loyal, to stand by Bulgaria absolutely in regard to the

Turkish frontier. Serbians have not been always popular in Great

Britain, I know; but I am not alone among those who have come into

recent contact with Balkan affairs who found them to be the best of the

Balkan peoples.

[Illustration: _See page_ 194

PODGORICA, UPON THE ALBANIAN FRONTIER]

The Greek is even more engaging and hospitable than the Serbian; but his

fluent, flexible, subtle nature does not inspire full confidence. At

the outset of the last Balkan war there was one thing that all were sure

of: that the Greeks would not fight. All were wrong. The Greeks did

exceedingly well in the field, even allowing that they sometimes shaped

their campaign quite as much by considerations of jealousy of their

allies as of hostility to the common enemy. But it is a fact that the

Greek has usually more stomach for politics than for fighting, and that

his subtle nature allows him to live comfortably in a state of

subjection, which would irk a more robust mind. He is by instinct a

trader: and a trader is not an uncompromising patriot as a rule.

The Greeks live side by side with the Turks in Turkey with fair comfort.

At Kirk Kilisse, after the Bulgarian occupation, a deputation came to me

from the Greeks to assure me that they would much prefer to live under

the Turk than under the Bulgar: and asking that England should be urged

to support autonomy for Thrace. Well, the Turks are back at Kirk

Kilisse, and I suppose my Greek friends are happy. Eloquent, courteous,

kind folk they were. I stayed in the house of one for some days, and

will remember always the gracious kindness of the man and his wife. I

had to leave one morning at four to catch a troop train which would

carry me a few miles towards the front. The couple were up and had a

fire and tea ready for me. As I had a fever at the time, and a long

laborious journey ahead, the whole Greek race seemed good that morning.

Later at Chorlu after I had got permission from the military commandant

to go forward to Chatalja, and he had helped me to hire a cart and

horses and to stock up my provisions, the permission was withdrawn

because Bashi-Bazouks were raiding along the line of communication. I

might go later, he said, when a body of troops was moving. I objected

that time was precious; and I had my revolver, and there was the driver.

"Ah," he said sweetly, "he is a Greek. He will run away."

After that manner the Bulgarians always spoke of the Greeks. In this

case the Bulgarian was possibly right. I finally coaxed permission to go

forward, on condition that I took a patrol of one Bulgarian soldier, and

I was allowed to borrow a rifle and some ammunition. We met no

Bashi-Bazouks: but whilst the Bulgarian palpably was quite content to

enter into a plan to give the Bashi-Bazouks a chance of showing

themselves at nightfall, the Greek liked the adventure not at all.

(Perhaps on the whole he was justified. But I was desperately eager for

a "story," and with the Turkish regulars running away so consistently,

to encounter irregulars suggested no real danger.)

On that journey, at a little village which I cannot name between Silivri

and Chatalja, the population was largely Greek. Some of the Greeks,

after the Turks had fled before the Bulgarians, had discarded the fez

and were wearing Bulgarian caps. Others held to the fez, but had marked

on it with white chalk a cross. I formed the opinion that if by the

fortune of war the Turks came back, those crosses would be rubbed out.

The Greek can be very pliant undoubtedly, when he is in contact with a

dominant people. The other side to his character--that of a hot-headed,

argumentative, boisterous Donnybrook Fair patriotism--is developed in

his own country where it is fed with memories of the historic greatness

of his race.

The Roumanian--the fourth national type in the Balkans to which I shall

refer--very closely resembles the Greek in most respects. Like the

Greeks the Roumanians are subtle, flexible, engaging. They are a

singularly good-looking race, and Roumanian girls are sought after in

marriage a great deal. A Serbian politician explaining to me what he

called "a nice national balance," pointed out that the Serbians rather

despised trade and finance. The Roumanian, therefore, came into Serbia

to make money as shopkeeper and financier. Then the young Serbian man

married the rich Roumanian's daughter and thus the Serbian money was

still kept in the country.

The instinct for trade has a very marked effect on the politics of the

Balkans. The Serbian has no love for trade: the Montenegrin despises it

quite. The Greek and the Roumanian are very keen traders with an

inclination to escape from manual work as soon as they can. The

Bulgarian is a trader and also fond of productive industry. So "as two

of a trade never agree," neither Greek nor Roumanian can get on as well

with the Bulgarian as with the Serbian.

The Roumanian national polity differs greatly from the Greek, though the

two racial types are very similar. Whilst Greece has a stormy and

disorderly democracy, Roumania is ruled practically by an oligarchy--an

oligarchy which during the past twelve months has won to an achievement

which would have delighted the old Florentine Republic. Without losing a

soldier, almost without spending a crown, Roumania has won a great tract

of territory and established herself as the paramount power of the

Balkans. It was a victory of unscrupulous and patient resoluteness which

is a classic of its kind, and it was made possible by the oligarchic

system of Roumania. The Montenegrin does not need to be considered

separately: he is the "Highlander" of the Serbian and shares Serbian

language, customs, and character with such modifications as the

conditions of his mountain life impose. But the Albanian, the largely

Mohammedan mountain type to which the jealousies of Europe have agreed

to give a separate nationality and a separate kingdom, calls for some

attention. The Albanian is the wildest of the Balkan types, and his

country the most primitive. It has had no period of civilisation, and

can hardly be said to promise to have. Its existence as a nation in 1914

was due to the fact that the German Powers wished to have a footing in

the Balkans for intrigue. "The creation of Albania dealt a death-blow

to the Balkan League," said a cynical Austrian diplomatist recently. He

was right: and the creation of Albania undertaken at the instance of

Austria had no other purpose from the first, though it was disguised

under the plea of anxiety for the national rights of the Albanians, wild

catamarans of the hills, odd specimens of whom one may encounter in many

parts of the Balkans acting as dragomans. The Albanian has many savage

virtues. He is a picturesque fellow as he swaggers about with a

silver-decorated armoury stuck in his waist-belt: and he is truly

faithful to a master. But he has not the barest elements of a national

organisation; and the Austrian Prince of Albania did not find a single

house within all his dominion which would satisfy the housing needs of a

respectable London clerk.

Describing the march across Albania to the Adriatic coast during the

recent war a Serbian officer wrote:

It is only by travelling as we did that real facts can be learned.

We who had only known the Turks by hearsay had a certain respect

for them. At present I feel but contempt and disgust. To think that

they should have held these lands for five hundred years, and kept

them absolutely wild and uncultivated! Prishtina, Jakovitsa, and

Prizrend are in every respect behind Mirigevo [a village some

miles outside Belgrade]. There are neither bridges nor roads, nor

decent dwellings to be met with in the Sanjak. Of the dirt I cannot

trust myself to speak. The "Ujumat" (Prefecture) of Prizrend,

residence of the Mutessarif, is in such a filthy condition that I

could not sit there for more than five minutes together. All around

the sofras (tables) were rags, remnants of food, tufts of dogs'

hair, etc., for these ate and slept with their masters....

The people are humble, cowed, moving out-of-doors rarely, and then

huddled together like a herd of cattle.... The peasants run to kiss

our hands, and bow down to the ground, but they are too frightened

to give a sensible answer to a plain question. They speak Serbian,

it is true, and cross themselves as Christians, but otherwise bear

little resemblance to our peasant folk. They have lived no better

than their masters, for themselves and their pigs share the same

apartment! If the pigs were let loose the Turks were sure to kill

them, so they were hidden indoors. The first use they made of the

liberty we gave them was to hunt the pigs into the open air, and

how the poor beasts enjoyed it! One could not help laughing at

their antics as they chased each other, while the children ran to

keep them from escaping to the woods. But the cows and oxen defy

description. They are like our calves, only the shape is queer. I

saw no vegetables anywhere. The staple diet is maize. From our

frontier to the sea it is the same tale of misery, helplessness,

and dirt. In Prizrend, after every rainfall, the people drink muddy

water in which none of our soldiers would care to wash. When we

boiled it a thick scum came on the top, which we skimmed off! This

is the water used by a town of 40,000 citizens; and really one felt

that authorities like the Turks should not be allowed to live any

longer. Now we feel that it is a disgrace to us to have delayed so

long in coming to the deliverance of our brothers in bondage just

outside our doors. Better late than never.

As for the independence of Albania, it would be a comical, if it

were not a sinister, idea. Whoever speaks of a national sense in

these savage hordes is either untruthful or ignorant. The Serbians

of this region make no distinction, as we do, between the Turks and

the Mohammedan Albanians. I could not get them to understand that

the latter were in reality brethren of the Christian Albanians with

whom they live in amity. I pointed out that these Mohammedans could

not speak a word of Turkish, but that did not help. The Serbians

insist that they are Turks all the same. And for all practical

purposes they are right. The Christian Albanians are called by

their race brethren "Catholics," and are hated and persecuted by

them just as the Serbians are hated and persecuted. The "Catholics"

loathe the Mohammedans and deny that they are of the same

nationality. But the fact remains that they speak the same

language. The Catholics welcomed us with joy, rendered us every

possible service, and often refused to accept payment. They are

eager to assist in our operations, acted as scouts for us, and

brought us precious information. Sometimes they acted on their own

initiative, captured, and killed their Mohammedan co-nationalists

without first consulting us.... The priests are the most

embittered. These jealous "fratres" told us they longed for a

Christian Government, and that the project of a united Albania was

insensate.... Ismail Kemal's proclamation has irritated the priests

about here. They will not for a moment consider a union with the

Mohammedan tribes or submission to a Moslem leader like Ismail. On

the other hand, if we evacuate this country, a terrible fate awaits

the Catholics....

Here I have made acquaintance with the Montenegrin troops, rather

different from ours! They get leave to go home and see after their

wives and children whenever they ask it, and lax discipline does

not seem to affect their heroism. They fight like lions, but do

nothing else except shoot birds and fish in the interval. Every

ship that touches here is greeted with a volley, though ammunition

is sometimes scarce, but the Montenegrin can better spare bread

than shot. He will do nothing but fight, and ships often remain

unladen here for days, because there are few Albanians in the place

to do the work. My soldiers carry sacks and burdens of all kinds to

and from the ships, and the Montenegrins laugh at them and say: "Is

that how you fight, Brother Shumadinats?" [Shumadia is a forest in

the centre of the Kingdom of Serbia.] They are amused to see our

men one day unshaven; they are most particular themselves to shave

each day whatever happens. The priests alone wear a beard, for they

are not supposed to fight.... The Montenegrin soldiers' wives come

once a week to look after their husbands, wash the linen, and help

to clean up....

There is, of course, a certain amount of Serb intolerance in that

letter, but it represents on the whole the truth.

So much for the different nations of the Balkans. The personalities of

the Peninsula might provide a happy solution for the problems which the

conflict of these mutually antipathetic racial elements create: for

there is no fact more clear than that the general interest of the

countries could best be served by a wise policy of compromise and

co-operation, bringing its different elements together as the Swiss were

brought together by a geographical rather than a racial reason. But

unfortunately there are no personalities alike honest in outlook and

great in power.

Four able and far-seeing men I have met in the Balkans: M. Nikolitch,

President of the Serbian Parliament; General Demetrieff, Commander of

the Third Army (which won the most notable Bulgarian victories), now

commanding a Russian army; M. Venizuelos, Prime Minister of Greece; M.

Take Jonescu, of the Roumanian Cabinet. All men of power, none seemingly

has sufficient strength to impose his will not alone on his own country,

but on the other Balkan States, and weld them into a Confederation which

would be held together by a sense of common interests and common

dangers.

King Ferdinand of Bulgaria has kept for years the centre of the Balkan

stage to the European onlooker; and is still a great enough figure to

give pause to those Bulgarian Nationalists who would exact from him

reprisal for the terrible misfortunes of their country. But he is a man

of audacity rather than of courage, and his ambition has been always

more personal than national--to be Czar of the Balkans rather than to be

the maker of a Balkan nation. Gifted with a great deal of diplomatic

ability and with a soaring imagination, King Ferdinand has a serious

obstacle in his personal timidity. To play a gambler's game one must be

prepared at times to take the great risk. But King Ferdinand has many

fears. He fears, for instance, infectious diseases morbidly, and the

thought of a germ in the track could turn him from the highest of

enterprises. Perhaps it was the fear of disease rather than of wounds

that kept him so much in the rear of his army during the 1912 campaign

against Turkey. But whatever the cause, his absence from the front

showed a serious weakness of character in a man who aspired to carve out

an empire for himself. The Bulgarian authorities, deceiving the Press

almost as assiduously for the purpose as for the false representation

that all the destruction of the Turkish forces was ascribable to the

Bulgarian arms, gave to Europe inspiriting pictures of His Majesty

following close on the heels of his soldiers in a military train which

served him as a palace. The fact was that the ambitious but timid king

kept very well to the rear, at Stara Zagora first and afterwards at Kirk

Kilisse, with a great entourage of secret police. And when armistice

negotiations were in progress he kept separate from his Cabinet as well

as from his army. Affable in manner, industrious, pertinacious, well

aware of the advantage of advertisement (my first meeting with His

Majesty was due to the fact that he mistook my map case for a camera,

and sent for me to photograph him while he stood on the bridge over the

Maritza at Mustapha Pasha), of high ability, King Ferdinand did great

things for his adopted country, but showed a fatal weakness of character

when he had drunk deep of the wine of success. It is the fashion to

blame him wholly now for the wild attack on Serbia and Greece. He may

have been in part the victim of his advisers' folly in that. But without

much doubt he could have vetoed the fatal move, if he had known his army

from personal observation, if he had been down to the lines at Chatalja,

and had looked closely into the besieging forces around Adrianople.

Common sense would have told him that the attack on his allies was

hopeless, if strength of character had not told him that it was wicked.

But he neither knew the facts nor understood the ethics of the position.

General Demetrieff, Commander of the Third Bulgarian Army, the victor of

Kirk Kilisse and of Lule Burgas, the reluctant attacker at Chatalja,

impressed me as a man of fine character. For some few days I was a

member of the officers' mess at Erminekioi, which was the headquarters

of the Staff before the lines of Chatalja, and had the chance of seeing

much of the general. He struck one as a frank, courageous man. He

answered questions truthfully or not at all, and was notably kind to the

very small group of correspondents who had got through to the front. His

personal staff worshipped him, and told with pride that most of the

staff work with him on the battle-field was under fire. When it was

clear that the attack at Chatalja had failed, General Demetrieff neither

attempted to tell falsehoods nor shut himself off from visitors. He

ascribed the cessation of the attack to the outbreak of cholera in the

Bulgarian lines (and the statement was probably in his mind not only the

truth but all the truth: in any case one could not expect him to

disclose the shortage of big gun ammunition): was avowedly disconsolate

but not in the least discouraged. I cannot imagine General Demetrieff

having any hand in the making of the second Balkan war against the

Serbians and Greeks, and think that the Bulgarians had in him a man of

honesty and courage as well as of great military skill. No other general

of the Bulgarian Army impressed me in the same way, certainly not

General Savoff.

Of the Bulgarian politicians, M. Gueshoff, Prime Minister at the

outbreak of the first war, and M. Daneff, chief Bulgarian delegate at

the Peace Conference and Prime Minister at the outbreak of the second

war, had the chief parts in the glories and tragedies of 1912-13. M.

Gueshoff seemed a well-meaning but weak man. He was fond of insisting

upon his English education and of advancing that as a proof of his

complete candour. I imagine that he played no directing part in the

drama of his country's sudden rise to power and more sudden fall, but

did just as his king directed, sometimes probably under protest. M.

Daneff was a more virile man, and his force of character, with little

guidance from experience, of liberal education, or from wise purpose,

had much to do with the downfall of Bulgaria. Of the Balkan Peace

Conference which met first in London in December 1912, M. Daneff

attempted from the outset to be dictator. He never lost a chance of

being rude to an opponent or fulsome to a supporter. He diplomatised by

pronunciamento and made a vigorous use of the minor newspaper Press with

the idea of overawing the chancelleries of Europe. I am sure that the

British Foreign Secretary, Sir Edward Grey, had nearly as much amusement

as chagrin from the incidents of the Conference. Just when the Turkish

delegates were being gently coaxed up to drink the hemlock, Bulgaria

would publicly dance a wild triumph of joy, and announce that the very

last drop had to be absorbed or Bulgaria would not be satisfied. When

the Turkish delegates were thus startled away and all the pressure of

European diplomacy was being brought to bear upon the Turkish Government

to bring them back to the point, Bulgaria threatened publicly to break

up the Conference and resume the war. Europe was given a short

time-limit in which to act.

M. Venizuelos, Prime Minister of Greece, has proved in his own country a

great capacity for good government and wise diplomacy. There was a

strong movement made at the outset of the Balkan Peace Conference to

have him appointed head of the Balkan delegation. Success in that would

have made the chances of peace better; and probably he had an

expectation of being chosen as being the senior in official rank of all

those present. But the jealousy and distrust of Greece was great: and M.

Venizuelos did not prove himself the man of genius who could overcome

the handicap which his nationality imposed. True, the task was almost

impossible. But still nearer to the impossible would it be now to unite

again the warring factions in the Balkans. M. Venizuelos, of the highest

talent though he be, will not be the maker of a Balkan Confederation.

M. Nikolitch, President of the Serbian Parliament, is an amiable and

clever man with far more culture than is usual in the Balkans. He has

translated English classics into the Serbian tongue, and is an

industrious student of social and political philosophy. But he has

nothing of the brute force that is needed to control the warring

passions of the Balkan States. As the Minister of a Balkan Union to a

great Power he would be admirable, for he has tact and wit, and a

knowledge of the value of truth. When it was made plain that Austria was

to have her way and Serbia no territory on the Adriatic, the

disappointment of Serbia was bitter: and there was some special blame of

Great Britain that she "had not considered her obvious interests," and

brought this friendly little state to the sea. M. Nikolitch had the

diplomat's faculty of taking a defeat smilingly. "The most unhappy thing

about it," he said to me, "is that now Serbia will not have England on

her frontier." It was a neat touch to speak of the sea as British

territory.

There remains to be considered M. Take Jonescu, who is credited with the

chief share in the unscrupulous diplomacy which has made Roumania for

the while paramount in the Balkans. It was certainly a masterpiece of

Machiavellianism, applying the tenets of "The Prince" with cold

precision, and marks its author as the master mind of the Balkans

to-day. Give such a man a good soldier people to follow him and an

honest purpose, and a Balkan Confederation might be achieved, with some

further blood-letting perhaps. But it is not possible to believe that

the Roumanians, frivolous, pleasure-loving, untenacious, could impose

their will for long upon the coarser-fibred but more virile Slavs of the

Peninsula.

No, there is not a personality in the Balkans to-day at once forceful

enough, honest enough, and skilful enough to give the Peninsula a union

which would enable it by means of a bold decision now to ensure internal

peace and freedom from outside interference. A great man could build up

a greater Switzerland, perhaps, of the Slavs, the Greeks, and the

Roumanians in the Balkan Peninsula with Great Britain, Russia, and

France as joint sponsors for the freedom of the new Federation. But one

hardly dares to hope for such a happy ending to the long miserable story

of the Balkans.

INDEX

Adrian, Emperor, 89

Adrianople, 14, 65, 68

description of, 90

Turkish occupation of, 26

Adriatic coast, 150

Sea, 45

Aegean Islands, 62

Sea, 45

Alani, the, 10

Albania, 14, 17, 62

condition of, 194

Albanian character, 173, 193

massacres, 89

mountains, 152

Alexander of Battenberg. _See_ Alexander of Bulgaria

Alexander, King of Bulgaria, 47

abdication of, 48

Alexander the Great, 6

American war correspondents, 99

Amurath I., Sultan of Turkey, 27

Amurath II., Sultan of Turkey, 27

Architecture, 158

Arjenli, 131

Armenia, 6

Art, applied, 163, 164

modern, 164, 165

Arts and crafts, 162

Asia Minor, invasion of, 17

Asiatic invasions, 11, 12

Assyria, 6

Astrakhan, 9

Austria, 28

and Serbia's trade, 125

Austrian ambitions in the Balkans, 45, 46, 49

war correspondents, 99, 105

Autonomy of the Christian Provinces, 57

Bajayet, Sultan of Turkey, 27

Balkan Alliance, 18, 21, 45, 53, 55, 57, 59, 74, 174, 194

possibilities of, 82

Balkan casualties in the war, 87, 88

character, 124

Committee, the, 91

development, 174

diplomacy, 56, 57

disunion, 75-77, 79

mountains, 3, 151

Balkan Peace Conference, 1912, 75, 78, 80, 81, 176, 188

second phase, 84, 85

spokesman, 83

Balkan peasants, 176

peoples as linguists, 148

politicians, 176

priests, 176

statesmen, 78, 92

War of 1912, 46, 54, 107

War resumed, 84

women, 159

Baltic Sea, 4, 6

Banking, 168, 170

Bashi-Bazouks, 26, 39, 43, 190

Basil, the Bulgar-slayer, 14

Beetroot cultivation, 169

Belgrade, 16, 124, 146

siege of, 27

Bessarabia, 32

Birrell, Major E. T. F., R.A.M.C., 143

Bishop Babylas of Montenegro, 36

Black Sea, 3, 5, 120

littoral, 150

Blood-mist, the, 175

Bosnia, 39, 49

British Army Medical Detachment, 69

opinion, 83

Red Cross Hospital, 143

surgeons, 142

Bucharest, 30, 109

Buda-Pest, 109

Bulgaria, 13, 22, 37

an autonomous principality, 44

beaten, 88

boundaries of (1830), 44

foreign influences in, 97

government of, 40

liberation of, 30

under Serbian rule, 17

a Turkish province, 22, 25

and universal suffrage, 40

at war, 127, 128

_Bulgaria of To-day_, extract from, 23

Bulgarian ambitions, 61

aristocracy, 179

army of 1912, 41

atrocities, 43

atrocities in Macedonia, 51

autonomy, 40

blunders, 86, 87

censorship. _See_ Censorship

character, 177-180

church, 26

commissariat, 69-73, 128

crops, 168

diplomacy, 85-87, 188

diplomatic intrigues, 49

Exarchates, 52

finance, 64, 168

generals, 59

hegemony, 48

hospitals, 143

industry, 167

medical service, 138, 139

military tactics, 66-71

mobilisation, 59, 63, 134

peace negotiations, 79

peasants, 141

preparedness for war, 55, 127

Press Bureau, 185

revolt of 1875, 39, 47

Secret Service, 60

system of land tenures, 168

War of Liberation, 42

women, 135

Bulgars, 3, 4, 9, 11, 13

Buxton, Mr. Noel, M.P., 158

Byzantine art, 164

traditions, 164

Cafés, 160

Carpets, 164

Caucasus, the, 9

Censorship, the, 94, 98, 100, 101, 115, 121

humours of the, 100

the second, 102

Cettinje, 35

Charles, King of Roumania, 39, 41

Chatalja, 61, 68, 117

Cherson, 5

Chersonesos, 5

Choleraic dysentery, 133, 138

Chorlu, 68

Churches. _See_ Architecture

Congress of Berlin, 44, 45

Constantinople, 8, 9, 11, 14, 15, 20, 26, 43, 61, 62, 137

fall of, 27, 89, 90

Cotton-spinning, 171

_Credit Foncier_ system, 169, 171

Cretan excavations, 4

Crimean War, 32, 38, 107

Crusaders, the, 20

Cyrillic characters, 35

Dacians, 6, 7

Daneff, M., 202

Danilo I., King of Montenegro, 33

Danube, 2, 3, 7, 28, 146

Dardanelles, the, 62

Decius the elder, 8

Decius the younger, 8

Demetrieff, General, 67, 136, 198, 201

Disease, ravages of, 140

Dnieper River, 5

Dniester River, 5

Don Cossacks, 15

Don River, 3

Dual Monarchy, problems of, 28

Dulcigno, 46

Durazzo, 14

Eastern Church, 16

Eastern Rumelia, 48

Egyptian influences, 4

Embroideries, 164

Emigration, 166

English war correspondents, 99

Enos, 88

Ermenikioi, 136, 138, 201

Eski Sagrah, 96, 97

Eski Zagora, 20

European capital, 174

diplomacy, 39, 40

diplomacy and Roumania, 85

finance, 64

policy, 50, 55

policy in 1912-13, 45

Powers, interest of, 96

Powers, intervention of, 58

Euxine, 6

Exarchate Christians, 177

Ferdinand, Czar of Bulgaria, 47, 49, 50, 108, 152, 154

his character, 198-201

Ferdinand of Coburg. _See_ Ferdinand of Bulgaria

Filimer, King of the Goths, 9

Finno-ugric tribe, 3

Forty Holy Martyrs of Bulgaria, 14

Fratricidal war, 87

Frederick Barbarossa, 16

French war correspondents, 99

Gallipoli, Peninsula of, 75

Geographical position, 1

Gepidae, 11

German Powers, 193

German war correspondents, 99

Getae. _See_ Dacians

Goths, 4, 5, 7, 8, 9, 13, 20

invasions of, 75

Greco-Bulgarian disunion, 79

_entente_, 76

Greco-Turkish wars, 107

Greece, 37

Greek atrocities in Macedonia, 51

character, 188-191

church, 22

civilisation, 4

coast, 150

diplomacy, 93

Empire, 2, 9, 11, 12, 13, 15, 16, 17, 20

Empire, fall of, 21

governors in Roumania, 31

official report, 76

Patriarchates, 52

patriotism, 167

Prime Minister. _See_ Venizuelos

traditions, 164

war of independence, 82

Greeks, 3

Grey, Sir Edward, 85, 203

Grivica Redoubt, 41

Gueshoff, M., 202

Guttones. _See_ Goths

Haskovo, province of, 168

Health resorts, 153

Herodotus, 5

Herzegovina, 39, 49

History, Early, 3, 4

Hodgkin, Mr. T., 5

Hospital services, 141, 142

Hungarians, 11, 13, 28

Huns, 4, 7, 11, 13

invasions of, 9, 75

origin of, 9, 10

"International Socialist," 132

Ionian letter-forms, 5

Istros, 5

Italian Peninsula, 1

war correspondents, 99

Ivan the Black, of Montenegro, 35

Ivankeui, battle of, 67

Janina, 75

Japanese censorship, 98

Jirecek, 2

John Asên, Czar of Bulgaria, 14

John Hunyad, 27

John Paleologos, Emperor of Greece, 21

Jonescu, M. Take, 198, 205

Jostoff, Colonel, 138

Journalism, 108-110

"Kara George." _See_ Petrovic

Kirk Kilisse, 42, 65, 139

Korea, 58

Kossova, 21

battle of, 27, 33

Kustendil, 168

Kustendjix, 5

Lazar, King of Serbia, 27

Levant, the, 4, 5

Liberation, progress since the, 165

Lithuania, 5

Lombards, 8, 11

London Morning Post, 54, 100

"Lord Salisbury's principle," 93

Lule Burgas, 68

battle of, 72

Macedonia, 44, 74

atrocities in, 51, 52, 53

Empire of, 6

massacres in, 51, 89

Marcianople. _See_ Schumla

Mariano Bolizza, 36

Maritza River, 90

Marmora, Sea of, 62, 120, 150

"Mass at St. Sofia," 146

Massacre, the national sport, 177

Medicinal springs, 153

Mediterranean littoral, 2

Sea, 4

Michael, Czar of Bulgaria, 15

Michael the Brave, of Roumania, 30

Midhat Pasha, 169, 170

Midia, 88

Military attachés, 105, 107

Milosh Obrenovic of Serbia, 38

Mineral resources in Serbia, 172

Minoan civilisation, 2

Moesia, 3

Mohammedanism, 24

Moldavia, 13, 29, 38

Montenegrin character, 173, 193

printing press, 35, 36

resistance of Turks, 34, 35

war with Austria, 35

war with Turkey, 35

Montenegro, 17, 28, 32, 33, 37, 46

Montenegro, government of, 33

_Morning Post_, the. _See_ London

Mount Athos, monastery of, 16

Music, national, 163

Napoleon, 17, 34

Napoleonic strategy, 113

wars, 32

Near East, the, 107

Near Eastern character, 78

Neytchef, Dr., 131

Nicolaieff, General, 42

Niemen River, 5

Nikolitch, M., 198, 204

Nish, 43, 125, 126

Nordic tribes, 4

Norman knights, 13

Normans, 4

Northern invasions, 13

peoples, 2

North Sea, 4

Nova Sagora, 135

Novi-Bazar, 46

Odessa, 5

Odessos, 5

Olbia, 5

Old Serbia, 74

Oriental Express, 156

Ostrogoths, 7

Ottoman. _See_ Turks

Ox wagons, 130, 131

Patriarchate Christians, 177

Peace Conference. _See under_ Balkan

Peace of Bucharest, 88

Peace of London, 85, 88

Persians, 11

Peter the Great of Russia, 34

Petrovic, George, 29, 37

Philip of Macedon, 6

Philippopolis, 8, 44

capture of, 20

Phillip, Roman Emperor, 8

Pig-raising, 171

Pirot, 43

Plevna, 41, 46

Pomaks, 22

Prehistoric state, 2

Press influence, 83, 84

Protective tariff, 171

_Punch_ cartoon, 54

Religious proselytising, 30

Rhodopes, the, 151, 152, 158

Roads, 167

Roman Church, 16

civilisation, 8

Empire, 1, 2, 89, 168

Roman Empire, decline of, 7

fall of, 8

traditions, 164

Romans, 4, 7

Rose cultivation, 169

Roumania, 7, 13, 22, 29, 37

Greek governors in, 31

an independent principality, 32

King of, 48, 49

liberation of, 30, 31

Russian garrison in, 32

subjugation of, 2

a Turkish province, 29

Roumanian character, 191, 192

diplomacy, 92

independence, 38

war correspondents, 105

women, 160

Roumanians, 3

Runes, 5

Russian ambitions in the Balkans, 44, 45, 49

garrison in Roumania, 32

hospital at Kirk Kilisse, 143

intrigue in Bulgaria, 48

liberators of Bulgaria, 25

Power, 31

war correspondents, 99

Russo-Japanese War, effect of, 50

Russo-Roumanian alliance, 31

Russo-Turkish War of 1828, 32

of 1877, 41, 43, 170

Salonica, 46, 62, 76, 79

Sanitary arrangements, absence of, 140, 141, 142

Saracens, 4, 12, 20

Savoff, General, 117, 202

Schumla, 8

Scutari, 74, 75

Scythia, 5, 8, 9

Seaside resorts, 150, 151

Sebastopol, 5

Seleniki, 129

Semitic invasions, 4

Serbia, 15, 17, 26, 37

as a European Power, 16

local government in, 172

Turkish garrisons withdrawn, 38

a Turkish province, 27

Serbian character, 186-188

contest for liberty, 38

diplomacy, 93

emigration to Austria, 28

Empire, 33

Empire, fall of, 27

forests, 172

Highlanders, 33

increase of territory, 46

liberation, 37

mineral resources, 172

mountains, 151

trade, Austria and, 125

women, 172

Serbians, 3, 4, 9

Serbo-Hungarian Alliance, 27

Servians. _See_ Serbians

Shipka Pass, 42, 129

Silistria, 168

Simeon of Bulgaria, 163

Slav traditions, 164

Slavs, 3, 4

Slivnitza, battle of, 48

Sofia, 61, 145

the Military College, 42

Southern Slav Art Exhibition, 165

Stambouloff, 48

assassination of, 49

Stara Zagora, 42

Stephen Dushan, King of Serbia, 16, 17, 26, 162

Stephen the Great, of Moldavia, 30

Sweden, 6, 9

Switzerland, 58

Tapestries, 164

Tartars, 4, 11, 13

Tchobanoff, Lieutenant-Colonel, 131

Tchorlu, 42

Tchundra River, 90

Teutonic knights, 13

Theodore Komnenus, Czar of Greece, 14

Thessaly, 2

Thrace, 2, 8, 44, 51

an autonomous, 80

Thracian campaign, 54

plain, 154

Thraco-Dacians, 3

Thraco-Illyrians, 3

Thraco-Macedonians, 3

Tirnova, 44

Church of the Forty Martyrs, 14

Tobacco cultivation, 168

Tourist possibilities, 151, 152

Trade, Early, 5

Trajan, 7

Transylvania, 30

Travel facilities, 155-158

risks, 161

Treaty of Adrianople (1830), 44

Treaty of Berlin, 38, 45, 46

Treaty of Bucharest (1913), 17, 171

Treaty of London, 174

Treaty of Paris (1856), 32, 38, 39

Treaty of San Stefano, 43, 44, 46, 47, 50

Trenches, 145

Triple Alliance, the, 50

Turco-Russian wars, 107

Turkey-in-Europe, 61

Turkish Army, 106

atrocities, 19, 26, 29, 31, 52

character, 181-186

corruption, 61

cruelty, 185

delegates at the Conference, 188

domination in Bulgaria, 23, 24, 25

entrenchments, 137

invasion, first, 15

occupation, 17, 20, 158

offer of reform, 56

Power in Europe, decline of, 45

prisoners, 136

procrastination at the Peace Conference, 81, 84

rally, 88

rule in Bulgaria, end of, 26

rule in Serbia, 28

spy incident, 133

tyranny, 24

villages, 138

Turks, 3, 4, 13

before Vienna, 21

Turnu-Severin, 7

Tyras, 5

Unity of Balkans. _See_ Balkan Alliance

Valerius, Emperor, 89

Vandals, 7

Varna, 5

Venetians, 16

Venice 34

Venizuelos, M., 83, 198, 203, 204

Vienna, 109

siege of, 21

Villages, the, 154

Visigoths, 7

Vistula River, 5

Vlad the Impaler, of Wallachia, 30

Volga River, 3

Volgars. _See_ Bulgars

Vranga, 43

Wallachia, 13, 29

Wallachians. _See_ Roumanians

War correspondent, the, 98, 99, 102, 103, 107, 126, 185

advice to, 110

new school, 107, 108, 113

passing of the, 122

a personal record, 116

War of Liberation, 85

Winter sports, 152

Yamboli, 42, 65, 69

Yanina, battle of, 67

Zablack, 35

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of Oxford.

ALEXIS ALADIN, Ex-member of the Russian Duma.

PAUL HAMELIUS, D. és L., Professor of English Literature in the

University of Liège.

J. H. LONGFORD, B.A., Professor of Japanese in the University of London.

R. W. SETON-WATSON, D. Litt., New College, Oxford; Author of _The

Southern Slav Question_, etc.

SIDNEY LOW, M.A., Balliol College, Oxford, Lecturer on Imperial and

Colonial History, King's College, London University; Author of _The

Governance of England_, _A Vision of India_, etc.

Edited, with an Introduction and Appendix, by SIDNEY LOW

_Crown 8vo._ Price =2/6= net _Cloth._

(_By post_, 2/10)

"No student, or even casual lover of books, and certainly no

patriot, should hesitate to read this remarkable little

volume."--_Daily Express._

"A valuable supplement to the books relating to the negotiations

preceding the war and to the campaign itself."--_Aberdeen Journal._

Published by A. & C. BLACK, Ltd., 4, 5, & 6 Soho Square, London, W.

* * * * *

TRANSCRIBER'S NOTES

Both "Serbia" and "Servia", "country-side" and "countryside" are found

in this text.

At p. 54, the phrase "I was through the war" may be an error for "I went

through the war", but has been left unchanged.

There is only one typo: "howevre" (on p. 21) has been changed to

"however".

Four words in the index have a different spelling from that used in the

text. Kossovo, Nova Zagora, Chorlu and Zablak are indexed as "Kossova",

"Nova Sagora", "Tchorlu" and "Zablack" respectively. These spellings

have been left unchanged.

The Balkan Peninsula · 第 10 / 10 章