CHAPTER I.

TRANSCRIBER’S NOTE

Italic text is denoted by _underscores_.

Small caps in the text is denoted by UPPERCASE.

Some minor changes to the text are noted at the end of the book.

MY EXPERIENCES

OF THE

WAR BETWEEN FRANCE AND GERMANY.

VOL. I.

“News of battle! News of battle!

Hark! ’tis ringing down the street;

And the archways and the pavement

Bear the clang of hurrying feet.

News of battle! Who has brought it?”

W. E. AYTOUN, _Lays of the Scottish Cavaliers_.

MY

EXPERIENCES OF THE WAR

BETWEEN

FRANCE AND GERMANY.

BY

ARCHIBALD FORBES,

ONE OF THE SPECIAL CORRESPONDENTS OF “THE DAILY NEWS.”

IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOL. I.

LONDON:

HURST AND BLACKETT, PUBLISHERS,

13, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET.

1871.

_The Right of Translation is Reserved._

LONDON:

BRADBURY, EVANS, AND CO., PRINTERS, WHITEFRIARS.

PREFACE.

It is right to state that a large proportion of the material of these

two volumes consists of letters contributed to “The Daily News,” so

far as concerns the events written of in Parts II., III., and IV.; to

“The Morning Advertiser,” as regards Part I. I have modified, excised,

and re-written not a little, only to find the desire, which cannot be

gratified, grow stronger and stronger to re-write the whole. As it is,

what follows can claim to be no more than an honest narrative of events

which passed within my own ken; nor did I allow any consideration to

deter me from bringing as many events as possible within my ken. Yet

even of these the book makes no pretensions to be a historical record;

but it may be of some service to the historian which the late war is

sure to evoke.

CONTENTS.

PART I.

THE STROKES OF THE SLEDGE-HAMMER.

PAGE

CHAPTER I.

THE EARLY DAYS 1

CHAPTER II.

SAARBRÜCK AND SPICHEREN 49

CHAPTER III.

COURCELLES, VIONVILLE, AND GRAVELOTTE 109

CHAPTER IV.

SEDAN: BEFORE AND AFTER 217

PART II.

METZ.

CHAPTER I.

THE SIEGE 285

CHAPTER II.

PUCELLA RAPTA 407

PART I.

THE STROKES OF THE SLEDGE-HAMMER.

MY EXPERIENCES

OF THE

WAR BETWEEN FRANCE & GERMANY.

CHAPTER I.

THE EARLY DAYS.

He must have lived in some very sequestered vale indeed who did not

in some measure participate in the thrill of excitement which ran

through Britain on that day, the 15th of July, 1870, on which the Duc

de Grammont in his master’s name proclaimed that France had resolved to

make war with Prussia. The general impression probably was, that there

would be a pitched battle the same evening, and when day after day

passed and no overt warfare was reported of a more serious character

than the blowing-up of a bridge, the capture of a couple of douaniers,

or the harmless exchange of shots between the hostile pickets and

patrols on the frontier line, the intensity of the concentrated

expectancy only grew keener because of the lurid hush that preceded

the breaking of the storm. In these early days, while access was

possible to the vicinity of the frontier line—on the German side at

least—there was little of interest to attract anyone whose mission it

was to contribute what he might toward feeding the popular appetite

with what has come to be known ever since the Crimean times as “War

Correspondence.” But there was no lack in Germany of more interesting

work than competing with Reuter in the transmission of telegrams, or

in gazing continuously across the boundary line through a field-glass

on the chance of seeing a few brisk little men in red breeches popping

out and in among the trees. One might see with his own eyes the working

of that huge machine, on the elaboration of every cog and pinion of

which Von Moltke and his subordinates had bestowed so much pains. The

word had gone forth for the mobilisation of the German army a few days

before I reached Cologne, on the 19th July. Already, before leaving

London, I had noticed and wondered what a power and scope had this

machine—the German military system—that it could bridge the Channel

and sweep into its feeder with a suction-power not to be resisted,

Germans long resident in Britain, and unthirled from the machine save

by the astriction of patriotism. There was little need in these days

of July to ask one’s way to the office of the North German Consul

in the city. You knew you were coming to the Consulate before you

got within sight of it. The pavements were thronged by Germans who

monopolised the “crown of the causeway” with a stolid masterful good

humour which was not to be gainsaid. You might have walked over the

heads of the densely-packed mass of men who stood about wedged in,

chatting, smoking, spitting, grumbling occasionally—not viciously—at

the delay they experienced in getting their passports put in order. I

should think at least three hundred Germans were in waiting for their

passports when I procured my _visa_. Four-fifths of the men—for the

most part stalwart, lissom young fellows—were starting to join the

German army. There was no compulsion on them, save what we might call

moral compulsion. They might have become naturalised Englishmen on

their arrival among us, or at all events when they found themselves

beginning to have a stake in the country. But Fatherland was their

all-in-all. They had thrown up, not a few of them, positions of high

trust and considerable emolument, that they might return to serve in

its ranks as private soldiers. Nor was there any impulsive, thoughtless

recklessness in the step. On the contrary, many of them regretted,

in my hearing, that prospects so good should thus be thrown to the

winds; but in this regret was not mingled a tinge of recalcitrancy.

It seemed as if they had never so much as let the consciousness dawn

upon them that it was possible to draw back. What they were doing was

a simple matter of inevitable duty. And it appeared to me that it was

in true consistency that there should have been but little display of

enthusiasm. They seemed to know each that his neighbour was genuine,

without bursting out into spasmodic professions of devotion and mutual

exhortations savouring of “high-falutin.” Several policemen were among

the number, and I was sorry to find—while the _employés_ of private

persons had not only been treated liberally as regarded the present,

but in many cases, on the part both of English and foreign houses, had

been promised favourable consideration on their return to claim their

hurriedly-vacated situations—that the public servants had been very

scurvily dealt with. One policeman, who was a third-class constable,

notwithstanding that he spoke four languages, and saved the force

the cost of an interpreter, had been suspended summarily immediately

on his intimating that duty to his native country compelled him to

quit the police; had been deprived of his uniform without a moment’s

warning, and in a contumelious manner; had been refused any testimonial

as to character, and finally was about to leave England, leaving

behind a week’s wages which were owing to him, and payment of which

was withheld. It was not a time favourable for the voyaging of the

migratory Britons, who are wont to crowd the Channel boats in the later

summer months. Such of our countrymen as were to be found on foreign

shores were for the most part hurriedly betaking themselves to their

insular fatherland to be out of harm’s way and the evil days that were

dreaded; and if perchance you encountered a few with their faces turned

the other way, those faces were set and anxious, for their owners were

hurrying to bring home children or relatives from school or residence

in some German town—peaceable enough still, but ere long, it might be,

to be the scene of a battle and the victim of a hostile occupation. But

the Ostend boats, for a few weeks at all events in the beginning of

the war, did not miss the suspension of the tourist exodus. There was

hardly standing room on their decks, thronged as they were by Germans

crowding home to swell the great national army. The night I crossed I

had a talk with two men who had come all the way home from New York for

this purpose, having started as soon as the first tidings of a probable

rupture crossed the Atlantic, and they assured me that they would be

speedily followed by vast numbers. What an extraordinary compound were

they of Germano-Yankee financial ’cuteness and pure single-hearted

patriotic zeal! Long and regretfully did they discourse about the

ill-effects of the war-panic; how this security went down seven per

cent., and that ten. But their quiet, contented conclusion was, “Never

mind, Germany will conquer, and what for that is the money?” No German

seemed to doubt that Germany would ultimately conquer; but there were

few who had not made up their minds to lose a battle or two at the

outset, and that for sure the opening scene at least of the stupendous

drama would be played within the borders of their native land. How the

world halted between two opinions till Wörth and Spicheren gave data

not to be resisted, seems strange and half unreal now when we have so

long stood in the full light of after-experience.

When I reached Cologne on the 19th July, working parties had already

begun to fell the trees on the ramparts and to face up the scarps of

the outlying forts. A state of siege had been formally declared, so

that the place might be got in trim for an actual siege if the fortune

of war and the traditional dash of the French should bring the crest

of the wave to lap against the hoary fortifications of the ancient

Rhineland city. And then, too, not in the city alone, but in every

village and parish throughout the length and breadth of the land, the

great mobilisation machine—Gneisenau’s patent, with improvements by

Von Moltke—was in full swing. How this machine does its work it is not

easy to realise, unless one has actually watched its operation. To do

this I halted for a few days, taking Cologne as headquarters, and made

daily excursions into the neighbouring country where the mobilisation

machine was in operation. What I saw left me divided between admiration

of its quiet regularity and its surprising efficiency; and a feeling

of sadness which no man with any feeling could escape. While the Uhlan

patrols and the Chasseurs-à-cheval are looking at each other across

the frontier, a short description of the working of the mobilisation

machine may not be uninteresting.

It is unnecessary to waste space in describing in detail the Prussian

military system, now adopted by all the German States. If there are

those among my readers who are not, by this time, familiar with these

details, it may be taken as pretty certain that such would obdurately

skip a paragraph furnishing them now. All that seems necessary is to

point out that there are three strata of fighting men in Germany—the

regular army, the “reserve,” and the landwehr. It is a mistake into

which many fall, and among others the _Times_ in a leading article in

the earlier days of the campaign, that the reserve is “in the rear

of the regular army.” This is not the case. The war strength of a

regiment is just double its peace strength, and the increment consists

of the reserve. The blending of the two in time of war is thorough

and complete. The medalled men of 1866, and of the Sleswig-Holstein

campaigns, called up from reserve, are welded into the same ranks with

the young soldiers who are serving their first period of three years.

Bayonet for bayonet, the old and the young soldiers balance each other,

and the amalgamation is perfect between dash and steadiness—between

whatever recklessness there may be in the bravery of youth, and the

staid valour of maturer years. It is an utter mistake to think of the

Prussian army or the Prussian reserves, as a militia similar to our

highly estimable but rather weak-kneed “constitutional force.” The

British militiaman has, in very few instances, been a soldier otherwise

than in the militia. He is quite a militia veteran, if he has gone

through his month’s drill once a year for four or five years, and he

is not liable to serve abroad. The Prussian reserve man, in whatever

stratum he may be, can point backward to three full years spent in

active soldiering with the colours of his regiment. He has his drill

every year, like our respected militiaman, but he is liable for foreign

service, and that, too, even after he is out of the “reserve,” and in

the ranks of the landwehr.

The mobilisation machine grinds its grinding in this wise. The whole

country is divided into districts, in the central city of each of which

are the head-quarters of the army corps recruited from that district.

Thence is sent forth the edict for mobilisation to the towns, the

villages, and the quiet country parishes. The authorities there make

out individual summonses, appointing day and place for the gathering,

and these are left at the “respective places of abode” of the reserve

men. Max has married, and children have begun to toddle around his

modest table. He is in the midst of his harvest, and Gretchen is

daily expected to add to the population of the Fatherland. Carl is

to be married next week; he has bought his humble plenishing, and

the priest or the minister has been spoken to. Hans is just entering

into partnership; he has built new premises, and his presence may be

essential to make the spoon—his absence will spoil the horn. Heinrich

is on the eve of emigrating. His traps are bought, and his ticket

is paid for. But the burgomaster’s clerk, or the orderly corporal,

comes round one pleasant summer evening, and serves on one and all a

certain bit of paper. Max, when he reads it, growls “Donner wetter,”

and actually lets his pipe out in the dismal pause that follows its

perusal. Carl walks off with it to his sweetheart, and there is a

blubbering match. But when the appointed day arrives, Max and all the

rest of them come to the front—genuine children of the Fatherland. Max

leaves the harvest _in statu quo_, kisses his Gretchen, and wishes

her well through her trouble, slobbers the bairns, and strides off

to the muster—the wallet on his shoulder, into which Gretchen has

crammed a couple of shirts, a lump of _schwartz brod_, a few slices of

_schinken_, and a coil of fearfully and wonderfully made sausages—a

little unaccustomed water in his eye, and a queer lump in his bare

brown throat. Carl puts off his wedding indefinitely, and war becomes

his mistress, _vice_ the other _fräulein_, superseded for the time

being. Heinrich postpones expatriation, perhaps to enrich the soil of

France with certain phosphates, the product of the decomposition of

bones. Hans leaves the new business and partner (an “exempt” let one

hope) to take their course; he for the time has other fish to fry. The

contingent of the village, duly called over and found complete, is sent

off towards head-quarters. By the way it meets other contingents, till

finally, as the rendezvous is reached, the several contingents make

quite a procession in traversing the streets. Now, it can be recognised

what a pure democracy, in a social sense, is the Prussian army. In the

same file walk the labouring man and his master’s son, the farmer’s boy

and the banker’s clerk. And if you follow them till they have got their

uniform, it is likely enough that you will find the labouring man, who

already has his medals on his breast, wearing the gold stripes round

his throat, and the petty centurion over his quondam superior, to whom

he sayeth, “Do this,” and he doeth it.

One is able also to recognise in this procession the genuine military

experience of Prussia. Many of its members look louts—they drag their

legs as if they had never been an hour at the goose step, and their

shoulders are as round as if they had never learned the meaning

of suppling motions. One of our smart sergeants of Charles Street

would emphatically d——n the lot all round as “heart-breaks.” But

the heart-breaks have seen and done what, in all probability, the

recruiting-sergeant has only a very faint conception of. They have

seen and shared in the shock of battle—they are veterans. Two-thirds

of the number wear the war-medals of former campaigns. Max was at the

storming of the Dannewerk; Heinrich plied the needle-gun at Königgratz.

Let us follow the party to the arsenal. On the road there is not a

drunken man to be seen, and there is no need of carts or ambulances to

carry the weary and footsore, for there are none such. “Falling out”

is a trick that the Prussian reserve men do not seem to have learned.

At the arsenal they get their uniforms, and on the peg whence each

military suit is taken, is hung up the civilian raiment, there to await

its owner on the return of peace. If the unclaimed personal flotsam

and jetsam is a perquisite of King Wilhelm, the worthy old-clo’ men of

the Juden Strasse have had a fine harvest of it. For Gretchen may have

been a widow before her baby was out of long clothes, and the priest

may have never been called upon to marry Carl. The serving-out process

is admirably systematic, betokening a state of active preparation

highly creditable to the quartermaster’s department. However, it

takes the best part of a day ere the clodhopper of the morning is

fully transformed into the soldier. And what a transformation is that

effected by a spiked helmet, pair of breeches, and boots! The man is

a different being now. The slouch has gone from his shoulders, his

chest is thrown forward, his legs straightened, his chin “well off

the stock” (in military phrase), his step brisk, and his carriage

altogether soldierlike. The associations of the uniform have done it

all. And now, as these newly re-made soldiers crowd the streets, one

can gauge their military physique with some precision. They are not

trim, dapper men. The regimental tailor of a British crack regiment

would have been in despair over the gaunt, long-thighed, big-jointed,

thin-flanked fellows, all corners and muscle. But it is clear they

are as tough as whip-cord, and strong, lasting, useful soldiers.

Their sobriety and docility are simply astonishing. They go about the

business of the hour as if they were working for their own hand; and

now, in the evening, although the town is swarming with soldiers, it

is as quiet as if there were not a man beyond the ordinary garrison.

No piquets promenade the thoroughfares to pick drunken men out of the

gutter, or to apprehend rioters; the barrack-gates are not infested

by hordes of soldiers’ women, and are not the theatres of scenes

calculated to make decent people shun the vicinity. All is orderly,

decent, and reputable.

We have an impression among us—and I confess I shared it—that he makes

the best soldier who is the most of an _enfant perdu_. Cut your soldier

off from all civil associations—no matter if from all associations

of civilisation as well—make the army his trade, the barrack-room

his home, and alternate the canteen with the low public-house as

his chosen haunt. Let every douce civilian body wag his head in a

half-kindly, half-chiding way over the soldier, regard him as more or

less God-forgotten, yet still a fine fellow in his way, and capital

food for powder. Let the soldier accept this view of himself, drink his

pay, wax his moustache, wink at the girls, and swagger about the world

in peace time—and in war? Of course your reckless scapegrace, without a

tie in the world, who carries his life in his hand, is just the man to

make a dashing charge, to cover himself with glory, to start the bells

a-ringing and the park guns a-firing, and—to drink himself to death

with the multitudinous pots which a temporarily proud and grateful

civilian population press upon his acceptance.

Why? Wherefore should a man fight any better because he is a

disreputable scapegrace? You talk of a stake in the country having a

tendency to stimulate patriotism in civil life. Why should the same

cause not have the same effect in military? Whether do the “tears fall

and blind” the soldier most, when the band strikes up “The girl I leave

behind me,” if she be an honest woman, a true wife, and the mother of

his children, or some dirty garrison trull hardly troubling to see him

off in her anxiety to make the acquaintance of his successor? In most

of the printsellers’ windows in London is an engraving representing

a farewell between an officer and his wife, as he quits for foreign

service. I often appreciated the true sentiment of Millais’ picture,

yet never more so than during those early days when the mobilisation

mill was grinding. The husband, leaning from a carriage window,

stretches forth his hand, which the wife clasps in both of hers, gazing

into his face in a speechless yearning agony of parting. I witnessed

the scene, with variations, dozens of times in town and country

Rhineland. Now it was a sun-burnt woman with tanned cheeks, and deeper

tanned hands, grim, thin-cheeked, and angular-featured, who gripped

the hand of a slightly greasy, equally brown man, in a blue slop, and

boots suggestive of small boats. But the look out of the eyes was the

same as in the picture; and the hussar officer had no fuller heart as

the bell rang and the train started, than had the greasy _landmann_ as

he turned away with the broken muttered “Goot behüte Dich,” and pulled

his cap over his eyes for a spell before he re-lit his pipe. Did the

_landmann_ fight any the worse, think you, because he had left behind

him in the village the sunburnt _frau_ and their young ones, than would

your dashing devil-may-care, who goes jauntily away to the war with a

laugh and a jeer? I venture, for my part, to think not.

After a run to Frankfort-on-the-Main in connection with the great

“legitimation” question, I set my face at length, on the 24th July,

towards the frontier. France was still unaccountably holding her hand,

and every day Germany was breathing the freer, as the high-pressure

mobilisation machine rapidly and efficiently overtook its work.

Even pessimists dared to hope that the Turcos might not, after all,

be quartered on them the day after but one; and the confidence was

steadily gaining ground that the army to inaugurate invasion would

consist not of Gauls but of Teutons. Men came to realise with flashing

eyes and speech unwontedly excited, how the lean, silent man, in his

bureau in Berlin, was fulfilling the engagement, which not a few

thought an impossible boast unworthy of Von Moltke.

The 24th of July was among the last of the days for ordinary traffic

on the Rhine Valley Railways, till the hosts had done passing on their

way to battle. Mayence was quite on a war footing. Bingerbruck—the

terminus of the line which quits the Rhenish system and runs up the

Nahe, towards Saarbrück, was totally blocked for civilian passengers

and given over to the transport of troops and munitions of war. With

a permission from General Von Göben, commanding the 8th Army Corps, I

found no difficulty in travelling by the military trains, and capital

fun it was. I went up the Nahe in a long Noah’s ark style of railway

waggon, in one corner of which I found sitting room on my knapsack;

and my fellow-passengers were thirty-nine men of one of the regiments

of the Prussian Guard. Better fellows there could not be—all civil,

jolly, and well bred. The sergeant of the squad was a medical student,

who had temporarily given up learning how to cure, to betake himself

to the practice of the art of killing, and several of his comrades

were the sons of merchants. As the train jogged along at a very slow

pace, for it had sixty carriages, and contained about two thousand men,

the soldiers were vehemently cheered by the crowds collected at every

station and every wayside village. Of course they cheered back again,

the bugler or the drummer giving vent to his patriotic emotions on his

instrument; while occasionally the spirit moved a grave young man—who

looked as if he were doing chronic battle with a huge brazen serpent,

but who was merely a trombonist or ophecleidist—to send a stave

gurgling and throbbing through the many involutions of his fearful and

wonderful instrument, that emerged at length from the big end in a

deafening roar. We exchanged cigars. My soldier friends proffered me

brown biscuits harder than the nether millstone, and seemed seriously

hurt when I could not make an impression on them. Water-bottles,

containing something that was not water, went the round; then came a

song, something, of course, about the “Vaterland,” and so we moved on

merrily. Those water-bottles served out to the Prussian troops are

very different to the horrible wooden tubs, with the inevitable leak,

which British soldiers are condemned to carry, cursing them as they

go. They are flat glass flasks, securely covered with stiff leather,

and have a screw stopper. No fall will break them; they are cooler than

wood, and they lie conveniently on the side opposite the sword. It

was at Kreuznach where we had the earliest opportunity of recognising

a fact with which all the world is now familiar, the extraordinary

marching power of the German troops. A battalion marched in during

the evening, after a fifteen miles’ tramp in heavy marching order,

under an intensely hot sun, and the men wearing new boots. Powdered

thick, as the sturdy square-built fellows were, it was plain they

were good, if need were, for another fifteen miles. I saw a battalion

in complete marching order come into Bingen the night before. It had

marched about ten miles, and was, of course, powdered white with

dust. The pace at which the battalion passed could have been but

little short of four miles an hour. The men marched four abreast, with

considerable intervals between the files, so that the air circulated

freely. But there was no straggling all over the road; a single word of

command would have sufficed to bring the battalion into regularity of

formation; and, notwithstanding the length of the march, and the rate

at which the ground was covered, only one man had been compelled to

fall out.

I suppose it is pretty well appreciated by this time everywhere, how

much this remarkable power of the Germans to march long distances

quickly, and that for consecutive days, helped to win for them their

victories. Yet, without having personally witnessed their endurance

displayed, often under unfavourable conditions, it is difficult for

one to believe in the possibility of the accomplishment of perfectly

well authenticated feats. I have known men march thirty English miles

a day for three consecutive days. It must be remembered, too, that

when the day’s march was over the troops had to do their fire-lighting

and cooking, and, indeed, had occasionally to go some distance for the

food to cook. Nor must it be forgotten that the German troops on the

march almost invariably bivouac in the open. They carry no tents—an

excellent arrangement in fine summer weather, when it is a positive

pleasure to sleep “under the beautiful stars,” but one that is very

trying when the weather is broken and inclement. They carry burdens on

the march much heavier than the kit of our English soldiers, and in

the burning dog-days they plodded sturdily forward all day long, yet

I only heard of a few cases of sunstroke. I attribute this exemption

to the comparative sobriety of the German soldiery. It was not long

ago—nor is the case an isolated one—that a loud clamour was raised

in England because a regiment had been marched some distance in the

sun with the result of several sunstrokes, one of which was fatal.

Those who cried shame over the trifling Kingston march should have

seen the Germans striding steadily forward, the thermometer at eighty

or eighty-five in the shade, with needle-gun, heavy knapsack, eighty

rounds of ammunition, huge greatcoat, camp kettle, sword (a useless

encumbrance), spade, water-bottle, haversack, and lots of odds and ends

dangling about them, with perhaps a loaf, like a curling stone, under

the arm, and without the remotest symptom of sunstroke. But then they

had not been drunk with bad beer or worse spirits the night before,

and it is this over-night intoxication to which, I think, inquiry

would demonstrate that cases of sunstroke on the march are mostly

attributable. So steady and unfluctuating are the marching pace and

endurance of the German troops, that it must be a miscalculation on his

own part if a leader is out in a reckoning having these conditions for

its basis. The generals know what the men can do, and feel assured that

they will do it; and this confidence enables them to devise strategical

combinations in the full conviction, which is never falsified, that the

troops will turn up at the appointed place true to time, and ready,

too, for fighting, no matter how long and severe the road has been.

A day or two before our _Militär-zug_ got to Kreuznach there had been a

panic in that mildest of all German watering places, and the visitors

had quitted hotels and lodging-houses with as much precipitation as

if the town had been warned that the fate of Gomorrah was to overtake

it next day. Princesses—German—thankfully accepted places—not seats—in

coal waggons; and duchesses—German also—prayed to be allowed to squeeze

into the goods vans. But I met one sturdy Briton who, although his wife

and children were with him, valiantly refused to quit. He had lived

three years and more among the Germans, and from his experience of them

was thoroughly convinced that Kreuznach was not to be violated by a

French foot; so he was living on here contentedly, with all the healing

waters in the baths to himself.

The Kreuznach arrangements for the comfort of the troops _in

transitu_ may be taken as an example of that which was in force

during this period at every considerable railway station in Germany.

The magistrates and leading citizens had formed themselves into a

committee, and they and other townsmen provided as much good bread

and meat and as much wholesome Rhine wine as the soldiers could

conveniently stow away. As each train came up, the wine, mixed with

water, went round in pails, the solid viands on huge trays. When a

regiment halted long enough, it was marched into a large shed and

liberally regaled.

Our _Militär-zug_ stuck fast at Kreuznach on the morning of the 25th

July, and nobody in authority seemed to have the faintest idea when

it or another train would proceed in the Saarbrück direction. When

the evening came, and with it continued haziness on the part of the

officials, I came to the resolution of walking to Kaiserslautern, a

town on the Palatinate Railway, about midway between the Rhine at

Speyer and Saarbrück, in the expectation of finding trains still

running on the line between it and the latter place. Before I quitted

Kreuznach three battalions of infantry and one regiment of cavalry

had arrived by train, and commenced the march up the Nahe Valley by

the road, taking billets for the first night, some in Kreuznach,

others in the villages up the valley. The infantry battalions were

composed of men of splendid physique, as became the “Queens Guards;”

the cavalry, which were dragoons, impressed me less favourably. It

was surprising to find train after train discharging its contents at

Kreuznach, instead of proceeding to a point much nearer the frontier;

but the explanation indicated great sagacity. The infantry battalions

comprised a large number of newly-mobilised men. A march was necessary

to season these, and in fact the whole body, and to make the new boots

fit easily and comfortably. A constant stream of troops was thus to

continue pouring up the roads of the Nahe Valley; their concentration

was easy at any given point: and, if need were, supports could have

been expeditiously brought up the railway to unite with them. A very

large army might in this way have been massed at any point on the

slope of the Saar water-shed, looking towards France, or on or inside

the frontier itself, with a punctuality and precision impossible were

the railway only to be resorted to. It may be mentioned that while this

Nahe Valley itself is rugged and precipitous in the extreme, its right

and left banks—the former looking towards Mayence, the latter towards

Coblentz—form rather broad plateaus of favourable configuration for

the march of troops, although obstructed and narrowed in places by

forests. The railway runs almost in the river bed, and between Kirn

and St. Wendel bores no fewer than twelve tunnels through the rocks.

Preparations were in progress for facilitating the blowing up of these

tunnels, it case it should have become necessary to make the railway

useless.

All night long I trudged along the country roads in the direction of

Kaiserslautern. After ten o’clock not a soul was to be seen, and I

doubtfully held on the road, guided by the compass and by an occasional

friendly finger-post. The road is fringed by frequent villages, but

whether they were occupied by soldiers or not it was impossible to

tell. As I progressed in the early morning, and presently approached

Rockenhausen—a small town—rather more than half-way to Kaiserslautern—I

found the country being gradually more and more densely billeted. At

Rockenhausen my pedestrian powers gave out, and I had to drive for

the remainder of the journey, the troops becoming more plentiful as

I proceeded, till at Kaiserslautern it seemed as if I had reached

the head-quarters of a considerable army. There I found the railway,

and a train which conveyed me first to Neunkirchen, where the Nahe

Railway was rejoined, and thence down into Saarbrück. At Neunkirchen

first became visible the earnest of actual warfare, in the shape of

the well-known white flag with the red cross floating over occasional

buildings along the line; but not a single soldier, far less an enemy,

was to be seen. The children played merrily in the smiling villages

as if the millennium had arrived; the smoke poured from the chimneys

of the factories, and from the pit-heads on the grimy embankments the

output of coal and iron was progressing as if France and Germany had

sworn indissoluble brotherhood. When we reached Saarbrück we found the

station crowded with nonchalant civilians, male and female. The streets

wore the most everyday aspect; the shops were open, the working folks

were strolling in from the townlands, and the young ladies daintily

promenaded, exciting a flutter among the trim subalterns. A sentry on

the door of the hotel inhabited by the military commandant, a little

piquet of Uhlan lancers in a corner of the market-place, and the

eloquent white flags constituted the few tokens of war visible.

Although the early operations of which Saarbrück formed the centre

have been snuffed out by the stupendous fighting to which they were

merely the overture, yet they ought not to be without some little

interest, if the analogy be followed that people are found listening

to the overture without impatience. This summer, doubtless, the quiet

frontier town will be swarming with visitors, and with such the use of

their eyes will supersede topographical description. But _non contigit

cuique adire Corinthum_—everybody will not go to Saarbrück, and a few

lines about the localities will scarcely be greatly out of place.

The railway line traversing Saarbrück, crossing the frontier beyond

it at right angles, and stretching away to Forbach, and thence to

Metz and the heart of France, emerges in a south-westerly direction,

out of a range of wooded knolls that bound the Saarbrück plain on

the north-east. These knolls, becoming quite a chain farther to the

south, have as their backbone the Bavarian frontier, which runs almost

parallel with the Saar Valley nearly as far as Saarguemines, about ten

miles to the south-east of Saarbrück, at the point at which converge

the Prussian, Bavarian, and French frontiers. In the centre of the

valley into which the railway line runs down from these heights stands

Saarbrück, a well-built, clean, and business-like town, penetrated

by the river Saar, which is crossed by three bridges, of which one

is the railway bridge. The portion of the town north of the Saar is

called St. Johann, that to the south is Saarbrück proper. Each of

the bridges connecting these two had its thoroughfare, at the time of

which I write, partially obstructed by casks filled with stones, while

other casks stood in readiness to block the remainder of the passage.

Traversing Saarbrück, the Forbach road encounters westward a very

abrupt rise, up which it winds with twists and cuttings, and finally

has a somewhat deep cutting through the crest and crown of the ridge.

The ground on the face of this slope is very much broken, and, with the

town and the bridge at its foot, is calculated materially to dismember

an army that might be forced backward off the plateau of which it

forms the margin towards Saarbrück. Emerging on this plateau, we find

it falling with a very gradual slope down into a valley that lies

parallel to the ridge, bounded on the further side, both to the right

and left, by densely-wooded rising ground. From the centre of this

valley there runs up at right angles another valley, in the throat of

which, and directly opposite the centre of the ridge above Saarbrück,

lies the French town of Forbach, at a distance of five miles. This

valley is bounded on its left, as one looks from Saarbrück, by an

abruptly-rising series of heights, crowned with a table-land. Those

heights project boldly into the first-named valley, almost in the form

of a natural bastion, gliding gradually away further on the left into

the lower wooded slopes. These heights, with their bluff bastion-like

termination, form the famous “Spicheren-Berg.” Across the débouchement

of the transverse valley into the parallel valley runs the imaginary

frontier line; traversing on one side the wooded rising grounds at

Schönecken, on the other the Spicheren-Berg, crossing the railway, and

going first north-west and then due west to the right, while on the

left it trends away in a south-easterly direction till it strikes the

Saar, which continues the boundary till the projecting frontier point

near Saarguemines.

All along this imaginary line, the hostile piquets and videttes

confronted each other. As one stood on the Forbach road, looking up

the transverse valley toward Forbach, he saw below him a Prussian

piquet of Uhlans and infantry, and on the little knolls in advance,

the videttes circling singly, their lance-pennons fluttering in the

wind. Several hundred yards further away, by the side of the Forbach

road, was a big block-house, which served the French as a piquet-house.

Outside this the Frenchmen were to be seen sitting or lounging about in

considerable numbers. In their front was the chain of their videttes.

All along the frontier line to the right and left of this point, there

ran this arrangement of videttes and piquets. The French Chasseurs

had a camp of about fifty tents some distance to the right of the

Forbach road, and occupied the wood behind it, seemingly in some force.

Towards Saarguemines, French and Prussian soldiers confronted each

other in larger bodies; but in this important part of the frontier,

where Prussia and Bavaria are, as it were, projected some distance

into France, they kept at a rather more respectful distance from each

other. In those pleasant early days, while as yet there were no graves

on the Spicheren-Berg, and no shattered men lying in the Lazarettes,

or littering the platform of the railway station in the blood-stained

stretchers, the piquets and videttes formed quite the diversion of

the Saarbrück people. After work was over, the labouring people used

regularly to take a stroll up the heights, to watch the dropping fire,

which was lazily maintained, fain to see a German marksman prove his

skill by hitting a Frenchman. Both sides were very cautious, and few

casualties took place. As yet the Saarbrück hospital contained but

two wounded Germans, both linesmen of the Hohenzollern regiment. The

French were reputed to be in force at Forbach, as many as 15,000 men.

Saarbrück was, however, in no trepidation, and kept a good face up

with its little garrison of one battalion of the 40th infantry (the

Hohenzollern regiment) and the 7th (or Rhineland) Uhlan regiment. Now

and then a German and a Frenchman appeared to lose their temper, and

blazed away at each other as fast as they could load. As regards aim,

there was nothing to boast of on either side.

A plucky little cavalry expedition, which had the crowning merit

of being successful, occurred opportunely enough to furnish the

Saarbrückians with fresh gossip-matter, and the little garrison with

encouragement. About the 20th July, a detachment of thirty Rhineland

Uhlans left Saarbrück, under the command of Lieutenant von Voight,

charged with the duty of destroying a viaduct on the railway line which

connects Metz with Saarguemines, Bitche, Hagenau, and Strassburg. A

single glance at the map will show the reader the great use of this

line to the French. Branching off from the Forbach-Metz railway, near

Cocheren, a little place a few miles inside the frontier, it skirts

the frontier throughout its whole length, and admitted of the speedy

transport of supports all along it. To interrupt the communication

thus afforded, was manifestly of immense importance to the Germans,

and the point selected was a viaduct of considerable height, a little

on the Saarguemines side of Bitche. The little band proceeded first

inland to Neunkirchen, where the services were enlisted of a body of

miners from the ironworks and collieries there, men experienced in the

conducting of blasting operations, and ready to face danger for the

sake of Germany. Those were mounted on led horses, and the detachment

proceeded to Zweibrucken, whence the frontier was reached at a point

almost due south. It was found that the French were on the frontier

line in considerable force, sufficient to frustrate efforts made to get

at the bridge on two successive nights. To cut the line of outposts

would have been easy, but the aim was not to do so, but to blow up the

viaduct, and to effect this it became obvious that a flank movement of

rapidity would have to be executed. A few riding-lessons were given

to the mining engineers, to enable them to sit the troop horses at a

gallop; and then, on the night between the 24th and 25th, the frontier

was crossed, without molestation, at a secluded point to the right of

where the French were on the outlook. A gallop of about seven miles

brought the party to the bridge. The engineers went to work at once,

the Uhlans covering the working party on both sides. In a very short

time the viaduct blew up with a grand explosion, and the French, then

for the first time becoming aware of how they had been circumvented,

hurried from the frontier inland to the spot. The Uhlans kept them at

bay till the artificers had completed the work of destruction. A large

quantity of material, both warlike and commercial, was destroyed, the

engineers remounted, and the party galloped back, reaching German

soil without a single casualty. The Uhlans met with an enthusiastic

reception, when they rode back into Saarbrück after their little

exploit.

As yet the evil days were not, and it was not easy to realise the wrath

to come, as one sat by the table d’hôte, in the sunshiny Rheinischer

Hof, clinking glasses with those right pleasant comrades, the officers

of the Hohenzollern battalion. Over the good Rhine wine, the projected

undertakings of the patrols were freely discussed, and there existed

for a few of us a standing eligibility for the reception of stray

French bullets, in return for the trifling inconvenience of getting up

in the small hours, and accompanying the patrol of the morning. The

narrative of one of those expeditions—it was made, if my notes are

correct, on the 28th of July—will suffice as a sample. In the grey

dawn, a small party of the 40th, consisting of twelve men and two

under-officers, started from the barracks, to reconnoitre the frontier

line; and this party I accompanied. It was about four in the morning

that we reached the top of the rising ground outside Saarbrück, of

which I have had occasion to speak so often. Everything seemed quiet

in the valley below, and we went onward to the right front, in the

direction of a little house that is very close to the frontier line. We

found it unoccupied, save by an old woman, who dwelt in it contentedly

while the bullets were hourly whistling over her roof. She told us with

a yawn that all was quiet, and we went forward again, inclining to the

right to gain the cover of the edge of a wood that occupies a rising

ground, over the summit of which goes the frontier line. Skirting

this wood for some distance, we had crossed the frontier, and were in

French territory, still without seeing anything in the shape of French

troops. Suddenly there came a piff-paff of smoke from behind a tree,

a little way up the knoll, less than one hundred yards to our right.

There was but one shot, but the cover was so dense that, for all we

could tell, the wood might be alive with Frenchmen; so we discreetly

slanted away to the left, crossing an interval of open ground near the

railway line, and then striking into a wood which occupies an isolated

knoll that rises out of the valley. The trees in this wood are much

less close than in the other, and we thought that if any Frenchmen were

in it, we could hardly fail to see them. The aim of the reconnoitring

party was to get to its left edge, as far forward as possible, so as

to be parallel with the French vidette, and to have the opportunity of

investigating, at as short distance as possible, the dispositions of

the French in the neighbourhood of their piquet-house on the Forbach

road. We had got about half through the wood when we heard a wild

screech directly in our rear, and between us and home. Turning round I

saw about twenty red-breeched French soldiers dancing about excitedly,

and alternating gesticulations with the discharge of their rifles. They

were within a short eighty yards of us, and, if they could have shot

straight, had as easy a mark as might be. They had to all appearance

been lining the edge of the wood where it fronted Saarbrück, and we

had unwittingly turned their flank. If they could only have kept down

their excitement, and held their tongues, they might literally have

stalked us from behind, for we had not the remotest suspicion that

there was anything in our rear, and the party was concentrating its

attention on its front. The coolness of the under-officer who commanded

the little party was inimitable. He was smoking his morning pipe, and

never troubled to take it out of his mouth. He grunted an order or two,

which brought us out of the wood on to the plain on its left, across

which we struck steadily, slanting inward toward our outpost on the

Forbach road. The Frenchmen continued to fire after us for some time,

and managed to hit one of the men on his pouch. Had the shot taken

effect, it would have penetrated the wrong way for honour, but the ball

was a spent one. We ultimately got back to breakfast all right, the

under-officer’s pipe still in full blast.

On the same day, when the one o’clock _table d’hôte_ was in progress,

a report was brought in that the French were moving cannon over the

brow of the Spicheren-Berg, on to a little table-land about half-way

down the slope. Of this little plateau they were very fond, having

continually their sharpshooters posted all round it. On the previous

evening, a French general had reconnoitred from it the German slope

of the valley, and, as reported by a countryman, had put a number of

questions to the rustics, as to the position of Saarbrück, and the

strength of the force occupying it. Immediately the drummers paraded

the town, beating to arms. A company of the Hohenzollerns occupied

each of the bridges, the cavalry sent a detachment on to the height,

while the rest remained standing to their horses in the Central Platz,

and a third company of the Hohenzollerns marched up the hill, and took

up a position of watchfulness just behind its crest. On the summit,

besides the Uhlans, there was a considerable collection of civilians,

eagerly watching the disposition of the cannon on the plateau. Crowds

ever have a tendency to draw fire, so I gave this one a wide berth,

and sat down some distance aside, on a spot whence a view of the whole

front was commanded. There were six field-pieces in all, which seemed

to be drawn by infantry men into position. What the object was did not

seem very apparent. It might be, I thought, that under the diversion

of a cannonade on the left, an attempt might be made to steal round on

the right, and get into Saarbrück by a _coup de main_, or, again, to

ascertain the range might have been all that was intended.

Presently there came a thunder plump, which sent the civilians crowding

inside a little beer-house called “The Belle Vue,” that stands on the

brow of the hill, just off the road. Almost immediately I saw a puff

of smoke come from the mouth of one of the cannon, and a shell struck

on the road close by the beer-house, bursting as it fell. There was a

stampede on the part of the civilians out of the beer-house, and they

scuttled vigorously under cover over the hill. They were only just

in time. Indeed the house was by no means empty when another shell,

ricocheting off the road, struck its front, went through the wall as if

it had been paper, and burst inside, blowing out the windows and part

of the roof. Another followed, also striking the front, but it did not

burst. Three more shots were fired, one of which wrecked an outhouse

behind the beer-house, and then the French gave over firing, and

withdrew their cannon from the plateau backwards out of sight. When the

artillery had been withdrawn I entered the beer-house, which already

had been re-occupied by its inhabitants. The women-folk stood weeping

and bewailing the mischief. A more complete wreck, indeed, I never saw.

Two rooms had been blown into one, the bar knocked into little pieces,

the table, at which I had drunk a glass of seltzer-water a couple of

hours before, split up into tinder, and a great gap torn in the floor,

exposing the cellarage, where there had evidently been a smash royal

among the bottles. The French practice was by no means bad. Three shots

out of six struck the house. It was shut up, and there was no more cool

seltzer-water after a hot walk on the hill.

The incident of the afternoon stimulated the videttes with unwonted

alertness, and they blazed away at each other till it was nearly quite

dark. One of the last shots fired killed an Uhlan who was making the

patrol. The poor fellow was hit full on the forehead, and must have

died instantaneously. I was on the height when the infantry men

carried in the corpse on a stretcher improvised of their guns. The

drops of blood pit-patted on the road as they carried him past me, his

cloak thrown over his limbs. But his face was bare, and I knew the man

at once. I had given him a cigar in the afternoon as I met him on the

Forbach road going out on vidette. Quite a lad he was, with the down

hardly grown on his cheek, and likely enough a mother might have been

thinking of him to-night, little knowing that he was lying stark and

cold, waiting for a grave.

In the sunshiny bloodless days of the end of July, spy-hunting was

another great diversion to idle men. Not that the German patrols

thought or looked upon it by any means in the light of an amusement;

on the contrary, they regarded it as a very serious and responsible

occupation indeed, and, not having as yet got the gauge of the French

_fainéance_ in this important department of military operations, gave

open ear to all the stories about suspicious persons having been seen

which were retailed to them by wiseacres. On the forenoon of the 30th

of July I witnessed with great amusement one of these expeditions. To

a sergeant in command of a detachment came a young civilian in a light

coat, who had seen a person, looking very like a Frenchman, prowling

about away to the right of the German advanced centre. Sergeant, on

receiving the information, solemnly draws his sword, and then betakes

himself to consideration. Having finished his cogitation, he takes his

pipe out of his mouth and orders out a party of four Fusiliers. The

squad start at a brisk walk, headed by the sergeant, who brings his

sword down to the “right engage” as he proceeds. Getting excited, he

begins to run, and his men run after him. The civilian in the white

coat accompanies the sergeant. An eminence is reached commanding

rather an extensive view. Nobody is to be seen. Sergeant turns on to

civilian resentfully, reproaches him for being the communicant of a

canard, sheathes his sword, re-lights his pipe, and commences a return

with his party at his heels. The civilian, whose _amour propre_ is

wounded, suddenly detects a crouching individual in the foreground,

and there is triumph in the tone in which he calls the sergeant back.

Sergeant wheels about, pouches his pipe, draws his sword, and then

looks in the direction indicated. Having marked his prey, he with

his party starts off at top speed down the hill, and captures the

crouching individual, who finds himself between a file of men, with the

sergeant’s sword in the immediate foreground, before he can collect his

senses. When he has accomplished this, crouching individual explains

with some indignation—its vent impeded by the necessity for keeping

his pipe alight—that he has been specially commissioned by the German

Commandant to watch the French, and, if possible, to get among them.

The sergeant, in fact, has apprehended his own spy. Sergeant seems

inclined to look foolish, and of course gets angry at the civilian

again. Civilian, however, is prepared to vindicate himself. He has seen

another “suspicious” close to the edge of the wood to the left, and

the sergeant, mitigating his choler, makes off for this supposed spy

No. 2. I should have mentioned that a little procession of loafers has

from the first dogged the heels of the party, and that suggestions are

freely tendered by everybody at once, including the small boys. When

spy No. 2 is reached he is found to be a sheepish-looking rustic in

a ragged blue blouse, who is sitting on the dyke-side with a female,

presumably his sweetheart. The account he gives of himself is not

considered satisfactory—indeed he can give no coherent account at all,

the proximity of the sergeant’s sword having apparently addled him.

Accordingly he is made a prisoner in due form. The Fusiliers fix their

sword-bayonets and take position on either side of him. The sergeant,

with his sword still at the “right engage,” marches bravely in the

van; the civilian looks as if he had saved the Fatherland; the small

boys whisperingly compare notes as to the personal appearance of the

“spy,” who they seem to consider deserves to be shot on the spot. And

so the procession takes its way to the Commandant’s quarters, where

it probably turns out that the “spy” is no spy at all, but a bumpkin

German to the soles of his huge brogues.

Sunday, the 31st of July, was a day of fast, humiliation, and prayer

for the success of the German arms, appointed by an edict of King

Wilhelm. It was kept devoutly. Men in Saarbrück went to church this day

who had not darkened the church door for years. The garrison, as well

as a great proportion of the townsfolk, attended the great church in

the central Platz, whither I also turned in with the rest. The piled

arms, with the bayonets fixed, that flanked the principal entrance,

spoke of war time. The Covenanters worshipped their God with their

weapons in hand—

“The lyart veteran leaning on his spear.”

The German soldiers left their arms outside the church,

but ready to be grasped and used at a moment’s notice. The preliminary

music was emblematic. It began with a low wail of pain and sorrow.

The nation confessed its many sins, and bemoaned its unworthiness of

the favour of God. Then broke out sharp and shrill the urgent call

to arms. Then followed a bicker and clash as of two mighty hosts

joining the battle one with the other. After the loud din of the

fray there pealed forth the joyous notes of triumph—victory had been

won, and the appropriate finale was the ever-noble _Te Deum_. Then

arose the preacher, an old man with a worn ascetic face, snow-white

hair, eyes that sparkled like live coals under excitement, and a

voice that pealed like a trumpet to the uttermost corner of the great

church, and thrilled the auditor with its indescribable vibration. His

discourse was the music done into words. After telling the people in

sternly plain language that they were wicked enough to have forfeited

the Divine favour, he implored them to merit it by humiliation,

repentance, and faith. Then, raising his voice, he spoke of the

goodness of Germany’s cause,—how that she courted not war, but for

her honour’s sake accepted it when forced upon her. The colour came

into the withered cheek, and the right arm swayed above the head as

if it grasped a sword, as the old man fervently enjoined the duty of

patriotism and invoked the blessing of Heaven on the arms of Germany.

The most casual observer could notice the thrilling effect on the

audience. It would scarcely have been surprising had a cheer broken out

from the people who hung on the preacher’s words.

Not a dozen miles from this Saarbrück church a very different scene

was meanwhile being enacted. A detachment of forty infantry men,

part of the garrison of Saarlouis, was patrolling the frontier

between Geisweiler and Ludweiler, when, about half-past eleven in the

forenoon, they came suddenly on a body of French, consisting of three

companies of infantry. These were invaders, for the soil was German;

and, notwithstanding the discrepancy of numbers, the children of the

Fatherland steadily advanced to the encounter. The hostile bodies

were already exchanging shots when a squadron of French Chasseurs

suddenly dashed into the arena, and, with loud cheers, charged

over the broken ground towards the Germans. These waited till the

horsemen, disorganised by the nature of the ground, had come within

point-blank range, and then gave fire in a volley. French saddles

were emptied, and the Chasseurs whirled hurriedly away to the left.

The Germans, encouraged by this triumph, pressed forward to meet the

French infantry. Several volleys were exchanged, the Germans still

pushing on, till at length the Frenchmen withdrew in a rout, throwing

off their knapsacks as they ran to lighten their flight. On the field

lay dead eight French soldiers and one officer. The Germans sustained

inconsiderable damage. Two were severely wounded and several slightly.

The ex-Emperor Napoleon has placed upon record his piteous testimony

to the skill with which the German Commander-in-Chief masked his

dispositions till the hour came for the veil to be drawn aside with a

result so disastrous for the French arms. If there was bewilderment

and ignorance on the French side of the frontier, there was scarcely

less puzzlement for those who were on the German side of the hedge.

The secret was so well kept that not a glimmer of it had dawned on

Saarbrück on the last day of July. When the war was declared the

garrison of Saarbrück consisted of a battalion of infantry and a

regiment of Uhlans. A fortnight had passed, and the reinforcements

might have been reckoned by the half-dozen. It was known that

Frossard, with a whole army corps, was looking across at Saarbrück

over the ridges of the Spicheren, and nobody had the means of knowing

what everybody knows now, the reason, so discreditable to French

organization, which prevented him from blowing out of his path the

sparse picquets and patrols, and invading the territory which had

its frontier only nominally guarded. Men asked each other if it were

possible that the Frenchmen did not know the weakness of the land. The

infantrymen and the Uhlans were manipulated dexterously and assiduously

to make it seem that a battalion was a brigade, and a few hundred

horsemen a powerful cavalry force; yet it was felt universally that

the place was held only by dint of sheer impudence—for there were no

supports of importance as yet nigh at hand—and that the bubble must

burst summarily if Frossart should fling aside his unaccountable

inactivity. With long faces and boding hearts the townspeople, striving

still to wear an aspect of confidence, muttered amongst themselves,

“How long, how long?” Students of military topography, men who read

Lavallée and pored over their maps, failed not to arrive at the

conviction that somewhere between the Moselle and the Vosges lay an

eligible tract for an invasion of France. The French frontier here,

as it stood before the recent annexations, was unnatural in a physical

sense; and therefore it was weak. The prominent natural features—the

rivers and hills—ran transversely to the boundary line, and the valleys

accordingly afforded so many natural roads whereby the country might

be penetrated. Were the hills which separate these straths rough and

prominent, the difficulty of penetration would have been greatly

increased from the danger that presented to an invading army of being

taken in flank; but hardly anywhere is such their characteristic,

and the low hills and insignificant heights may be swept by an army

advancing up one of the shallow valleys. This configuration, in

combination with the artificial frontier line, leaving, as it were, so

many open portals inviting to the entrance of France, Vauban, the great

French engineer, had devoted his energies to the erection of artificial

guardians over the frontier naturally so open. On the Moselle he

fortified Metz and Thionville. The Vosges bulwark is strengthened by

Bitche and Phalsburg; but there lies a wide plain between the Vosges

and the Moselle, with nothing in the shape of natural or artificial

defence. Vauban had fortified Saarlouis, but in 1815 the Allies

deprived the French of Saarlouis, which was now in the possession of

a German garrison, and instead of being a protection to the French

frontier was a thorn in its side. The result seemed to be that a

German army could advance, plunge into France, elude Metz by way of

Nancy, and reach the basin of the Marne without encountering any other

obstacle than Toul. Once in the Marne basin, the road to Paris was open.

But there were no signs of a German army on the frontier, and every

day, it was argued, must be adding to the strength of the French army

now standing stockade-wise across the track. But surely the province of

a defensive stockade was one hardly in accordance with the precedents

or idiosyncrasies of the armies of France. Why the men in red breeches

lay so long basking in the sun on the slopes of Spicheren we could not

comprehend, but the day must surely be near now, we said one unto the

other, when they would gird up their loins and roll their columns on

over the Exercise Platz and across the Saar into the Köllerthaler Wald

or the Pfalz. And in their path stood but an open town, a couple of

bridges half barricaded with barrels, a battalion of infantry, and a

regiment of Uhlans.

The 1st of August, while the French were yet supine, brought to

Saarbrück what all hoped was the earnest of a host, not alone of

resistance, but invasion. On the afternoon of that day the third

battalion of the 40th, two companies of its first battalion, and two

batteries of artillery, reached the vicinity and made their bivouac

on a flat upland in front of a wood. They had left Trèves a fortnight

before, and marched down by what seemed strangely easy stages. As

soon as the news of their arrival reached Saarbrück, I went out to the

encampment with some friends, carrying boxes of cigars, which form an

excellent introduction to German troops everywhere. The first bivouac

we saw, it naturally interested us greatly, and the reader may care

to read of it as a type of the system. It was a very pretty sight.

On the left were the artillery, the guns regularly parked, with the

ammunition-waggons in their rear, and in front of each line so formed

the picquet ropes, with the horses fastened to them, and the harness

deposited on the ground behind them. The forge was alight, and the

farriers busy shoeing horses, while the armourer had also his fire

alight, and was tinkering some small arms. Further on the right was the

battalion of infantry, or rather the two half-battalions, each of two

companies. The Germans always bisect their battalions in this way, both

in camp and in action—a little interval constituted the separation.

In the fore-front lay or sat the officers, enjoying their Rhine wine.

In their rear, in the centre, was the battalion colour in its cover,

and stuck deep in the ground, with the drum-major’s halberd alongside

of it, and the drums and instruments of the band lying all around it.

Then came a straight row of knapsacks, each surrounded by the rolled

great-coat, just as the front rank had deposited them. About ten paces

to the rear was another similar row, and in the interval stood the

stacks of piled needle-guns. This formation existed mathematically

right away to the rear. The men were dispersed in various directions,

but none strayed to a great distance, the limit being marked by a

cordon of sentries. There was a crowd round a beer cart, another

round a wine cart. There was soon a crowd round us as we produced

the cigars we carried. On a knoll sat a band of singers chanting a

song of Fatherland. A squad, whose bivouac lay in an orchard, engaged

themselves in shaking the trees and eating the fruit as it fell.

Others, again, amused themselves by gymnastic exercises, running races,

or jumping against each other. Evidently they were as fresh as if

they had not marched a mile; yet they had been on the road fourteen

days, and had never had their clothes off, lying in the bivouac night

after night. In the rear, close to the wood, the pioneers had dug

trenches and gathered wood. The fires were alight, and slung on poles

extending from bank to bank were the simmering camp-kettles, evolving

a very savoury odour. What were their contents was not difficult to

guess. In the ditch by the woodside lay some yet warm bullock hides.

The animals had been slaughtered, cut up, and the pieces were in the

pot, all within a couple of hours of the halt. Meanwhile, the men

stayed the edge of their appetite with the black bread and the beer,

of which latter there was a plentiful supply. The dusk gradually

began to gather. The kettles were taken off the fires, and their

contents distributed. The men ate and were filled, and then gathered

round the fires to sing and to gossip. The good people of Saarbrück

had come up among their countrymen in some numbers, and great was the

fraternisation. In the foreground, by little camp-tables, which had

sprung up as if by magic, the officers sat clinking their glasses of

Rhine-wine and smoking placidly, as they listened to the band which

played for half an hour before the watch-setting at nine o’clock.

Then the “lie down” sounded, and the men, unrolling their cloaks,

gave themselves a shake, put their heads upon their knapsacks, and in

less than a quarter of an hour there arose a sound of conscientious

snoring, to which a marsh full of frogs was not fit to hold a candle.

The officers sat later by lantern light; but they, too, one by one

quitted the social circle, and stretched themselves on their cloaks on

the ground. By-and-by there were left, tarrying over the wine cup, only

a burly senior captain, the jovial adjutant, and a silent lieutenant,

the last of whom I had at intervals suspected of being asleep, but who

always livened up to fill his glass as the bottle passed him. Then

they, too, “turned in,” if the phrase is allowable, when everything was

outside, and, excepting the chain of sentries and the quarter guard,

the whole camp was wrapped in the deepest slumber.

At three punctually the bugler of the night sounded the reveille,

and the camp awoke and rubbed its eyes, with many yawns. Cloaks were

rolled, and the fragrance of the morning pipe scented the cool clear

air. The cooks stirred the unextinguished embers of the fires and piled

on the billets. The camp-kettles were again strung on the cross-poles,

this time filled with coffee, and in about three-quarters of an hour

from the reveille some 1,500 men were masticating the black bread and

drinking the black, milkless coffee out of their mess-tins. Then the

band played again, and the men got under arms and answered to the

roll-call. This done they were ready for the road, the hour being

half-past four A.M. Had there been a march they would have journeyed

till about eight or nine, taken a rest during the heat of the day,

and probably have done a few miles more in the cool of the evening.

But no marching was in orders for the day, and so the arms were piled

again, and the men were free to do as they liked, always keeping

within the limits indicated by the sentries. Many went to sleep again,

others betook themselves to tailoring jobs with as much aptitude as if

they were genuine sons of the goose, and occasionally with a little

disregard to the critical niceties of decorum in the way of costume.

Others did nothing but smoke in all the luxurious _dolce far niente_

of perfect idleness. Ten minutes would have sufficed to see the camp

struck and the troops on their march. It was impossible to conceive men

in better heart; officers and men alike self-reliant, buoyant, and

ready for anything, in the fullest conviction that they could not be

beaten.

This Trèves contingent brought in three spies—rather a curious

assortment. One was a French officer; the other a clergyman, or at

all events a person who wore the dress of one; the third, outwardly

and visibly, was a woman. For a couple of days she had dogged the

Hohenzollerns, who, with all chivalry, had refrained from prying

very closely into her business; but one morning a sergeant, of a

matter-of-fact turn of mind, interviewed the lady, and the result

was the discovery—I fear I perpetrate a bull—that she was a man. The

make-up was of a character to do some credit to the sergeant’s power of

observation.

My experiences of the war between France and Germany, vol. 1 (of 2) · 第 1 / 8 章