OYSTERS AND THEIR PREPARATION

[Illustration: FIG. 25]

82. OYSTERS, CLAMS, and SCALLOPS are salt-water fish that belong to the

family of mollusks, or soft-bodied animals. They are entirely encased in

hard shells, which, though of the same general shape, differ somewhat

from each other in appearance. Fig. 25 shows a group of oysters and

clams, the three on the left being oysters and the three on the right,

clams. Oysters are larger than clams and have a rough, uneven shell,

whereas clams have a smooth, roundish shell. The three varieties of

mollusks are closely related in their composition and in their use as

food, but as oysters are probably used more commonly than the others

they are considered first.

83. COMPOSITION OF OYSTERS.--Oysters occupy a prominent place among

animal foods, because they are comparatively high in protein. In

addition, they contain a substance that most flesh foods lack in any

quantity, namely, carbohydrate in the form of glycogen, and for this

reason are said to resemble milk closely in composition. A comparison

of the following figures will show how these foods resemble each other:

WATER PROTEIN FAT CARBOHYDRATE MINERAL SALTS

Milk......... 87.0 3.3 4.0 5.0 .7

Oysters...... 86.9 6.2 1.2 3.7 2.0

Oysters, as will be observed, contain only a small quantity of fat, and

for this reason their total food value is somewhat lower than that of

milk. A pint of milk has a value of 325 calories, while the same

quantity of oysters has an approximate value of only 250 calories.

Because of the difference in the cost of these two foods, oysters

costing several times as much as milk, the use of oysters is not so

cheap a way of supplying food material.

84. DIGESTIBILITY OF OYSTERS.--When merely the ability of the digestive

tract to handle oysters is taken into consideration, they are said to be

easily digested if they are served raw or are properly prepared. This is

due to the fact that when taken as a food they are disposed of in a

comparatively short time by the stomach. In addition, their absorption

from the alimentary tract is quite complete; that is, they contain

little or no waste material. But, just as cooking has much to do with

the digestibility of other protein foods, so it has with oysters. For

this reason, the housewife who wishes to feed her family this food in

its most digestible form must thoroughly understand all phases of

its cooking.

85. HEALTHFULNESS OF OYSTERS.--Much illness has been attributed to

oysters, and without doubt they have been the cause of some typhoid and

some ptomaine poisoning. A knowledge of the reason for these diseases

has done much to eliminate them. It is now definitely known that much of

the typhoid caused from eating oysters was due to the conditions under

which they were grown. In their growth, oysters fasten themselves to

stationary things, such as rocks or piles driven into the ground

underneath the water, and they obtain their food by simply opening the

shell and making use of minute particles of plant and animal life that

they are able to extract from the water. When the water was not clean or

when sewage was turned into it, typhoid germs were transmitted to

persons who took oysters as food. At present, there is scarcely any

danger from such causes, for more care is now given to the conditions

under which oysters grow. Ptomaine poisoning from oysters was caused by

eating them when they had been improperly cared for in storage or had

been taken from the shells after they were dead. Unless persons handling

oysters know how to take care of them, this danger is still likely

to exist.

86. PURCHASING OYSTERS.--To be able to purchase oysters intelligently,

the housewife should be familiar with the names of the various kinds.

These names are dependent on the locality from which the oysters come,

and include _Blue Points, Cape Cods, Cotuits, Lynn Havens_, and numerous

other varieties. It should be remembered that the varieties raised in

different localities are quite distinctive, differing to some extent in

both size and appearance. Unless the purchaser is familiar with the

different varieties, almost any of the small oysters are likely to be

sold to her for one of the small varieties and, likewise, any of the

large oysters for one of the large varieties. While this is of small

consequence, provided the quality is satisfactory and the price is

right, it is well for every housewife to familiarize herself with the

names of the various kinds, so that she may know just what variety she

is purchasing.

87. When oysters are bought in the shell, they should be alive, a fact

that can be determined by the tightly closed shell, as has already been

stated. If the shells are not closed or can be easily pried apart, it

may be known that the oysters are not good and that they should be

rejected. When it is possible to procure them, oysters that have been

removed from the shells immediately after being taken from the beds are

preferable to those which have not been removed from the shells before

shipping. When purchased out of the shells, oysters should be grayish in

color, should have no disagreeable odor, and should contain no excess

water or liquid. After being purchased, oysters should be kept on ice

unless they can be cooked at once.

The season for oysters is from September to April, inclusive. While in

some localities they can be purchased at other times during the year,

they are not likely to be so good. In fact, it is not safe to use

oysters during the warm months.

88. IMPORTANT POINTS IN COOKING OYSTERS.--The protein of oysters, like

that found in other foods, is coagulated by heat. Long heat, provided it

is sufficiently intense, makes oysters tough, and in this condition they

are neither agreeable to eat nor readily digested. When they are to be

cooked at a high temperature, therefore, the cooking should be done

quickly. If they are to be cooked at a temperature below the boiling

point, they may be subjected to heat for a longer time without becoming

so tough as when a high temperature is used. Cooking quickly at a high

temperature, however, is preferable in most cases to long, slow cooking.

For example, in the preparation of oyster stew, long cooking produces no

better flavor than short cooking at a high temperature and renders

oysters far less digestible.

[Illustration: FIG. 26]

[Illustration: FIG. 27]

89. OPENING OYSTERS.--Unless oysters are bought already opened, it

becomes necessary to open them in the home before they can be served raw

or cooked. To open oysters is not difficult, and with a little

experience the work can be done with ease. It will be well to note that

the two shells of an oyster, which are called _valves_, are held

together by a single muscle, known as the _adductor muscle_, that lies

near the center, and that this muscle must be cut before the shell will

open readily. Before attempting to open oysters, however, they should be

scrubbed with clean water, so as to remove any sand that may be on the

shells. When the oysters are cleaned, proceed to open them in the manner

shown in Figs. 26 and 27. First, as in Fig. 26, insert the point of a

knife into the hinged, or pointed, end and push the blade between the

valves until they appear to separate, when it will be known that the

muscle has been cut. Then, as in Fig. 27, lay the valves open and loosen

the oyster from the shell by slipping the knife under it.

If the oysters that are being opened are to be cooked before serving,

simply drop them with their liquid into a suitable vessel and discard

the shells. Before using the oysters, remove them from the liquid, look

them over carefully to see that no small particles of shells cling to

them, and wash them in clean, cold water to remove any sand that may be

present. Also, strain the liquid through a cloth, so that it will be

free from sand when used in the preparation of the dish for which the

oysters are to be used or for the making of soup or broth.

Oysters that are to be eaten raw are frequently served on the half

shell. Therefore, if they are to be used in this way, place each oyster,

as it is loosened in the process of opening, into the deeper shell, as

Fig. 27 shows, and discard the other one. Very often good-looking oyster

shells are saved in order that they may be used from time to time in

serving raw oysters that are bought already opened.

[Illustration: FIG. 27]

90. RAW OYSTERS.--When an appetizer is desired in a meal that is to

consist of several courses, raw oysters are often used for the first

course. Oysters that are to be eaten raw may be served in the shells or

removed from them. They are bland in flavor, however, and require some

sharp, highly seasoned sauce in order to give them sufficient snap. The

sauces commonly used for this purpose include cocktail sauce, chilli

sauce, catsup, horseradish, and tobasco sauce. Sometimes, though, lemon

juice or vinegar and pepper and salt are preferred to sauce. As a rule,

crisp crackers, small squares of toast, or wafers and butter accompany

raw oysters in any form, and sometimes celery and radishes are

served, too.

91. When a cocktail sauce is served with raw oysters, they are generally

referred to as OYSTER COCKTAILS. Two methods of serving these are in

practice. In one, as shown in Fig. 28, the cocktail sauce is put into a

small glass placed in the center of a soup plate filled with cracked

ice, and the oysters, usually six in half shells, are arranged around

the glass, on the ice. In the other, as shown in Fig. 29, the desired

number of oysters that have been removed from the shells are dropped

into a stemmed glass containing the cocktail sauce, and the glass is

placed in a bowl of cracked ice. An _oyster fork_, which is a small,

three-pronged fork, is always served with raw oysters, and usually a

piece of lemon is supplied in addition to the cocktail sauce.

[Illustration: FIG. 28]

[Illustration: FIG. 29]

92. OYSTER STEW.--If an extremely nutritious way of preparing oysters is

desired, oyster stew should be selected. This is perhaps the simplest

way in which to cook oysters, and yet care must be exercised in making

this dish, for the oysters should not be cooked too long and the milk,

which must be brought to the boiling point, should not be allowed to

burn. Oyster stew makes an excellent dish for lunch. It should not be

served as the first course of a heavy meal because of the large amount

of nutriment it contains.

OYSTER STEW

(Sufficient to Serve Six)

1 qt. oysters

1 qt. milk

2 Tb. butter

1 tsp. salt

1/8 tsp. pepper

Pour 1 cupful of water over the oysters, look them over carefully, and

remove any pieces of shell that may cling to the oysters, making sure

that any particles of sand are washed off. Heat this liquid to the

boiling point and then strain it through a cloth. Put the milk on the

fire to heat, and when hot, add the butter, salt, and pepper, and

strained liquid. After the whole mixture has come to the boiling point,

pour in the oysters and cook until they look plump and the edges begin

to curl. Remove from the heat and serve with crisp crackers.

93. CREAMED OYSTERS.--Another nutritious way in which to prepare oysters

and at the same time produce a dish that is pleasing to most persons is

to cream them. After being creamed, oysters may be served over toast or

in timbale cases.

CREAMED OYSTERS

(Sufficient to Serve Six)

2 Tb. butter

24 oysters

1-1/2 c. medium white sauce

Salt and pepper

6 slices toast or 6 timbale cases

Melt the butter in a frying pan, add the oysters, and heat them in the

butter until the edges begin to curl slightly. Pour the hot oysters into

the hot white sauce, season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve

over toast or in timbale cases.

94. SCALLOPED OYSTERS.--No food makes a more palatable scalloped dish

than oysters. Oysters so prepared are liked by nearly every one, and the

ingredients with which they are combined help to give such a dish

balance so far as the food substances are concerned. Care should be

taken, however, in the baking of scalloped oysters, for they are likely

to become tough if they are cooked too long.

SCALLOPED OYSTERS

(Sufficient to Serve Six)

1 c. bread crumbs

2 Tb. butter

1 c. cracker crumbs

1 pt. oysters

Salt and pepper

1 c. milk

Butter the bread crumbs with the butter, and then mix them with the

cracker crumbs. Sprinkle the bottom of a greased baking dish with

one-fourth of the crumbs, and over this put a layer of oysters that have

been previously cleaned. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and add

one-fourth more of the crumbs. Add another layer of oysters, sprinkle

with salt and pepper, and place the remainder of the crumbs on top.

Strain the liquid from the oysters through a piece of cloth, mix this

with the milk, and pour over the dish thus prepared. Place in a hot

oven, and bake until the mixture is thoroughly heated and the top

is brown.

95. FRIED OYSTERS.--Of all the dishes prepared from oysters, fried

oysters undoubtedly find favor with the greatest number of persons.

However, unless care is taken in frying the oysters, they are likely to

be somewhat indigestible. Deep fat should be used for this purpose, and

it should be hot enough to brown a 1-inch cube of bread a golden brown

in 40 seconds.

FRIED OYSTERS

(Sufficient to Serve Six)

24 large oysters

1 egg

1/4 c. milk

Fine cracker crumbs

Salt

Pepper

Thoroughly dry the oysters by laying them on one end of a soft cloth and

patting them with the other. Beat the egg and add the milk to it. Dip

the oysters into the cracker crumbs, then into the egg-and-milk mixture,

and again into the crumbs. Fry in deep fat until brown. Remove from the

fat, drain well, and place on oiled paper. Sprinkle with salt and pepper

and serve hot.

96. OYSTER PIE.--Baking oysters into a pie is another means of combining

a protein food with foods that are high in other food substances. As

oyster pie is somewhat hearty, it may be used as the main dish of a

heavy meal.

OYSTER PIE

(Sufficient to Serve Six)

1 pt. oysters

1 c. medium white sauce

Salt and pepper

Baking-powder biscuit dough

Cut each of the oysters into three or four pieces, and place them in a

greased baking dish. Pour over them the hot white sauce and the juice

from the oysters. Season with salt and pepper. Over the top, place a

layer of the biscuit dough rolled about 1/4 inch thick. Set in a hot

oven and bake until the crust is brown.

97. PIGS IN BLANKETS.--When something entirely different in the way of

oysters is desired, pigs in blankets should be tried. This is a very

good name for the dish given in the accompanying recipe, for the oysters

are rolled up in a strip of bacon, which serves as a blanket. They are

especially suitable for a light meal, such as luncheon or a dainty lunch

that is to be served to company.

PIGS IN BLANKETS

(Sufficient to Serve Six)

18 large oysters

18 thin strips of bacon

After the oysters have been cleaned, roll each one in a strip of bacon.

Fasten the bacon where the edges meet by running a toothpick through at

this point. Place in a broiler and broil on one side until brown; then

turn them and broil until the other side is brown. Serve hot.

98. OYSTER FRITTERS.--Variety may also be secured in the use of oysters

by making oyster fritters. When such fritters are nicely browned and

served with an appetizing sauce, an attractive as well as a tasty dish

is the result.

OYSTER FRITTERS

(Sufficient to Serve Six)

1 pt. oysters

1 egg muffin batter

Clean the oysters and cut each into four or five pieces. Make a one-egg

muffin batter and to it add the cut oysters. Drop the mixture by

spoonfuls into deep fat and fry until brown. Remove from the fat, drain,

and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Serve with a desired sauce.

Woman's Institute Library of Cookery. Volume 3: Soup; Meat; Poultry and Game; Fish and Shell Fish · 第 206 / 220 题