The combined army was now on the point of marching from Asseerghur,
after the cession of that fortress.
We bent our way once more towards cantonments, accompanying Sir John
Malcolm to his new station of Mhow, for the purpose of visiting the
celebrated cities of Indore and Ougein. This was some miles out of our
direct route; but no traveller ought to pass such places without viewing
the splendour and magnificence of ancient architecture for which those
two cities are celebrated. A careful survey of such places will well
compensate the traveller for going out of his way; feed his astonished
mind with contemplation for years to come; and impress him with the
conviction, that the system of architecture in Europe, in comparison
with that of the East, is but in its infancy.
The approach towards Mhow is very difficult and fatiguing. One ghaut
which we were necessarily obliged to ascend was frightful even to look
at. The road had been scooped out from the side of the hill, which from
its base was almost perpendicular, and seemed to defy mortal ascent.
When I arrived at the bottom, I saw elephants, camels, and horses, men,
women, and children, that seemed hanging on the projecting bosom of the
flinty rock, or suspended from the clouds. When the elephants had
reached the summit, they looked like small ponies, and the men like
little dark specks in the sky. About two hundred yards from the top was
a strong gateway, and two large bastions, for the protection of this
pass into Holkar's provinces. Upon the hill was a strong stone-built
fort, belonging to that chieftain, which was well filled with guns and
men. This hill, from its base to its summit, is more than two miles.
There are several wells during the ascent, for the accommodation of
travellers, fed by springs hewn out of the solid rock. It is a good
day's march to complete the ascent of this hill; and how cattle get up,
with their enormous loads on their backs, is to the spectator wonderful
to behold. Nothing of moment occurred on the journey, save some broken
shins and knees; and, for three days after this trip, I was so stiff
that I could scarcely move. We encamped on the top of this hill, and the
view from its summit comprised an extent of at least fifty miles. The
people below seemed of another world. In the lowlands the atmosphere was
intensely hot and sultry; but upon the hill it was pure, cool, and
salubrious, so that we seemed quite in another country. When we again
set out on our journey, we travelled about a hundred miles without again
descending. The whole of this distance the country was one general flat,
and we did not find any descent till we got near Callenger, where the
ghaut is nearly as high.
In two days more we reached the new station of Mhow, the residence of
Sir John Malcolm, with whom we spent two pleasant days. Sir John was as
hospitable as he was brave, and his tables groaned under the luxuries of
the season. He possesses a profundity of wit; so that, wherever he is,
the whole company are sure to be on the broad grin. I should recommend
all people subject to liver complaints to pay Sir John a visit, if
opportunity favours them, and I would wager ten to one that, in one
month, he would laugh most of them out of their complaints. I was myself
suffering under a violent attack when I was his guest, and the smallest
motion, more particularly that caused by laughter, was attended with
most excruciating pain; but our host could almost make a dead man laugh.
The consequence was, that I laughed to some purpose, for I actually got
rid of my complaint. Sir John generally made it a point of getting me
close to him. He said to me one morning, "Shipp, did I ever tell you the
story of my being invited to breakfast off a dead colonel?" I answered,
"No, Sir John; nor are my poor sides in a state to hear it."--"Oh, but I
must tell you: it's rather a serious story than otherwise." Finding
there was no escape, I put both my hands to my sides (a necessary
precaution to prevent them from bursting) and listened attentively. Sir
John had a peculiar manner of relating anecdotes, which, for effect, I
have never seen equalled; and a sort of squeaking voice, in which he
generally spoke, especially when pleased, added greatly to the drollery
of his stories. "I was invited to breakfast," said Sir John, "with a
queer old colonel of the Bombay Artillery. This colonel was famous for
giving good breakfasts, so I accepted his invitation, and went to his
residence rather early, where I walked without ceremony into the
breakfast-room. It is customary in India, when breakfast-things are
laid, to throw a table-cloth over the whole, to keep the flies off. I
thought it strange that I did not see a single servant; but I walked up
and down the room, very contentedly, for nearly a quarter of an hour. At
last I got quite hungry, so I thought I would help myself to a biscuit.
For this purpose, I lifted the end of the cloth, and the first object
that met my eye was--the colonel's head!" Just at this instant Sir John
Malcolm struck me a violent blow on the shoulders, which so startled me,
that I really thought the dead colonel was on my back. From that time,
however, I lost all symptoms of the liver complaint.
After a short time our generous entertainer good-naturedly accompanied
us to Indore, where the British resident, Mr. Wellesley, treated us in a
most splendid and hospitable manner. He took us to visit the court of
young Holkar, who, a short time before, had rebelled against the
government, in consequence of which his troops had been dreadfully cut
up at Mahidpoor, so that we could not expect a very cordial greeting.
We, however, all proceeded thither, mounted on elephants, and we were
received at the outer gates, by the junior officers of Holkar's court,
rather coolly. Here we dismounted, and in the inner court we were met by
some officers of higher rank, by whom we were conducted to a long room,
on which was spread a clean white cloth, with innumerable pillows and
cushions for the purpose of lounging on. Young Holkar rose on the
entrance of the resident, and we all in our turn had a hug at him. He
was a dirty-looking boy, about thirteen years of age, shabbily dressed,
and who, it was said, has never been known to laugh out. After the usual
greeting, and sprinkling of scents, we could see his rancour working
within him. It was Sir John who had given his troops such a drubbing,
and he could not, even on this occasion, conceal the hatred that rankled
in his heart towards the English. The recollection of the disastrous
defeat of his troops rushed across his mind, no doubt, the moment he saw
Sir John Malcolm, and it left evident traces on his features, that
indicated the most malevolent feelings towards his visitors. It appeared
to be with difficulty that he could behave with decent civility; but,
from fear of offending the British resident, he was compelled, with his
courtiers and ministers, to affect a cordiality which he did not feel.
Sir John Malcolm, however, soon disturbed their ceremonious gravity,
which he converted into peals of laughter, so that the room resounded
with shouts of merriment; and the before frowning rajah, who was reputed
unable to laugh, actually threw himself on his back, and laughed most
lustily. It was a considerable time before we could re-establish order;
after which, an interesting conversation took place, which was followed
by the distribution of presents, in which the young rajah was liberal,
and we broke up much more friendly than we had met. We all returned to
the resident's house, to a most splendid dinner.
On the following morning we bade farewell to our hospitable friends, Sir
John Malcolm and Mr. Wellesley, and bent our way towards Ougein by
forced marches, to make up for the time we had spent at Mhow and Indore.
The Bengal division did not return with us, but went the direct road to
Saugar, where they arrived some days before us. In two days we reached
Ougein, and encamped in a small tope of trees, about a mile from the
city, which is situated on the banks of the river Scend, opposite to
which are the beautiful and extensive gardens, once the favourite resort
of Scindia, but which, of late years, he has not visited. The once
splendid palace of this ancient city has been actually permitted to
tumble to pieces, and this seat of oriental magnificence may now be said
to be the habitation of snakes, scorpions, and every kind of reptiles.
The beautiful pleasure-grounds are still kept in some kind of order, as
they are the haunts of mendicant priests, who willingly sojourn here,
and by whom these gardens are considered as a holy place of worship. In
the morning the rippling stream of the Scend is crowded with these
Brahmin priests, sanctifying their hoary heads, as they suppose, with
the pure waters of this fair and sparkling stream, and offering worship
to their gods.
In the course of the afternoon we visited the old city, that had been
buried by an earthquake. We could distinctly see tops of temples, trees,
and houses, and there are still many wide and yawning excavations in the
earth. At the extreme end of this old town stands the palace, in a state
of dilapidation and decay. Some few priests reside in what was once the
zenanah, the lower apartments of which run into the gliding stream of
the Scend, and are washed by this beautiful river passing through them.
Here we bathed, to the great annoyance and mortification of the priests
who resided there, who did not fail to tell us in plain terms, that we
had contaminated and polluted the sacred stream.
We next visited the subterraneous passage which was reported to reach
from Ougein to the city of Benares, some two thousand miles! We
commenced our exploration of this place by candle-light, and every ten
yards descended into rooms almost square, till the place became so damp
and chilly, that we were induced to return; but, even from the short
distance we had accomplished, we could easily discover that it led to
the palace, which stood about a quarter of a mile from it, and had no
doubt been a secret passage to the zenanah, for some nefarious purpose.
These subterraneous passages to the palaces of the great must have been
designed for purposes dark as they are mysterious; and, could these dark
and lonely cells but speak, I fear they would tell many a woful tale.
Over the mouth, or entrance, of this subterraneous passage, was a kind
of old gateway, and on its still tottering towers were sculptured many
tales of wonder, as false as they were strange. Wishing to see
everything worth beholding, we commenced our march, by descending three
or four steps into a square room, that was perfectly green from the damp
vapour rising from the ground. In one corner of this room, which was
about six feet square, we discovered a wrinkled old man reposing on some
ashes, his hair white and his beard of great length. He viewed us with
the eye of a lynx, and, having bid us the usual greeting of the morning,
he at the same time sat up, and, assuming a considerable degree of
self-consequence, he demanded where we were going, from whence we came,
and what were our intentions. I was appointed interpreter, and I replied
that we wished to see this wonderful subterraneous passage. He replied,
"Yes, wonderful indeed! two thousand miles dug out of the bowels of the
earth by manual labour, and which cost as much money as would purchase
another world; but," continued he, "where are your provisions--your
oil--your Koran? If you wish to explore this great wonder of man's
power, you surely would not attempt it without first invoking Almighty
aid! The journey is long, dangerous, and tedious."--"How far, then,"
said I, "does the excavation extend, that so many precautions are
required?"--"To the famous city of Benares," replied he. "There may be
found, though scarcely known to mortal man, the other entrance. This is
as true as it appears wonderful to you who are unacquainted with these
hidden mysteries. If you doubt my assertion, go on, and your own eyes
will convince you of the truth of what I have told you." We proceeded
through some three or four rooms, descending two or three steps down to
each, till a chilly dampness told us to return. We did so, and, not
wishing to offend old grey-beard by evincing any disbelief of what we
had heard, we gave him a few rupees, which he seized with all the
avidity of a miser. His cunning eye sparkled again when he found the
rupees within his grasp, and he bowed to the ground in token of thanks.
He told us many stories, as wonderful as they were false: amongst the
rest, the following:--That some of his holy sect (Brahmins) had, a short
period before, attempted to explore this passage; but, when they had
proceeded about half way, some of them died. The others consulted
whether it was more prudent to proceed to the accomplishment of their
design, or at once return, while it was certain that their oil and
provisions would last them. They agreed to return, and they reached the
spot from which they had first started, after an absence of some months.
The hoary-headed mendicant told this barefaced falsehood with all the
solemnity of truth, and confirmed it by emphatically calling on his
Maker to witness his assertion. We did not think it prudent to dispute
his word till we were fairly out of his clutches; but, just as we were
about to take our departure, I told him that what he had asserted was
nothing but a delusion to exact money from the English traveller, and
that we could plainly see, from the nature of the passage, that it was a
secret inlet to the great palace, for some dark and murderous purpose.
This he denied with all the effrontery of which these people are
capable, and we parted on no very friendly terms. This same old fellow
accounted for the earthquake having visited the city of Ougein in the
following happy manner. He said that a white man had sojourned there
some three or four years, subsisting on the gifts of the benevolent. "He
spoke fluently all the Oriental tongues, was affable, and became
generally esteemed. Having accumulated some money, he built a little
temple, and, in two or three years, gained a considerable number of
converts to his religion, and became so powerful in his arguments, and
so persuasive in his discourses, that the Brahmin priests held a
consultation. The result of this meeting was never published, for it was
on that day--that long-to-be-remembered day--that the great visitation
overtook this city, engulfing myriads of its inhabitants. This was a
mark of their god's displeasure for permitting this ancient city to be
defiled by the erection of a Christian temple. The temple was wholly
swallowed up; but, Sir, strange to say, some one short minute before
this, the white man had gone to a small school in a distant village, and
escaped the catastrophe. On the same eve, however, he disappeared, and
naught has been heard of him since that day--a day registered in blood
in the annals of this ancient city."
We visited every place about Ougein worth seeing, and in the evening
returned to our tents, where our hospitable general had, as usual,
provided a sumptuous dinner, with every luxury of the season. On the
following morning we stood towards Saugar, _via_ Bopaul and Belsah, old
Pindaree haunts; but nothing of moment occurred on the road, save that
some of our servants lost their way in the night, and were never more
heard of by us. There can be little doubt that they had fallen victims
to banditti, for which this part of the country is notorious.
We soon arrived safe at Saugar, where we were met with open arms by our
affectionate wives. At this station all was now merriment and joy. Such
is the life of a soldier! He no sooner furls his victorious banner, and
sheaths his blood-stained sabre in the scabbard of peace, than, amid the
revels of the fascinating and the gay, or in the more calm, but far
sweeter enjoyment of domestic felicity, he loses all thought of
"grim-visaged war."
I was blessed with a most affectionate partner, who shared in all my
joys, and soothed me under all my sorrows. Her fond epistles to me, when
in the field, were filled with expressions of pity for the poor deluded
creatures with whom we were at war. She was the pillar of my best hopes;
my bright star of happiness; my monitor in the hour of peril, and my
sure refuge in distress. She had but one fault--that she doted where she
should but have loved.
* * * * *
But, quitting recollections which, from subsequent events, have been
rendered painful to me, perhaps the insertion of the following account
of the extraordinary evidence given by an Irish sergeant before a
court-martial may be tolerated, if only in consideration of its being
the last of my Irish anecdotes.
_President._--Well, sergeant, recollect you are upon your oath to speak
the truth, and nothing but the truth, so help you God. State what you
know touching the crime against the prisoner.
_Sergeant._--I will, your honour. The other morning, when I was fast
asleep on my cot, with my eyes open, I heard the prisoner there himself
say to Patrick Gaffy, in a whisper--and sure I could tell his voice a
mile off if I could hear him--that he would never rest day or night till
he had kilt and murdered Corporal Ragon, becase he was always down upon
him, and he would never let him alone besides.
_President._--You have a strange way, sergeant, in giving your evidence:
you say that you heard the prisoner, when you were asleep, tell Patrick
Gaffy, in a whisper, that he would kill Corporal Ragon. Mind what you
are about, Sir.
_Sergeant._--A whisper, your honour! Fait, but it was such a whisper as
you might have heard, if you had been on the look-out, all over the
barrack, with your eyes shut.
_President._--But you say that you were asleep?
_Sergeant._--So I was, your honour; but the noise waked me; and I shut
my eyes so that I might be sure I heard him.
_President._--Can you hear in your sleep?
_Sergeant._--Fait, can I. About a month ago, I was as sound as a
mackerel, when, sure enough, I heard a man calling me by my name; and,
when I opened my eyes, I saw him standing by my bedside, and he said he
had been calling me for a long time.
_President._--Perhaps you can see in your sleep also?
_Sergeant._--By the powers, your honour, you may say that; for the other
morning I catched myself at that self-same thing.
_President._--How was that, sergeant?
_Sergeant._--Fait! the other morning, when I was fast asleep, I felt my
eyes, and found them wide awake.
_President._--Probably you can _always_ hear in your sleep?
_Sergeant._--Not when my eyes are shut, your honour; for then I am quite
deaf.
_President._--Do you ever walk in your sleep?
_Sergeant._--Never, your honour, after I lay down; but I did once, when
a boy.
_President._--Which you perfectly recollect, of course?
_Sergeant._--Yes, your honour: I shall never forget it, because I have
good cause to remember it.
_President._--What may that be, sergeant?
_Sergeant._--Why, your honour, I was about ten years old when I walked
in my sleep, and I found myself wide awake in a horse-pond that stood
near my father's house.
_Member._--Well, but you said at the commencement of your evidence, that
you were asleep, and heard the prisoner now before the court make use of
the threat towards Corporal Ragon.
_Sergeant._--Fait! did I, on my oath, and that's no lie, either.
_Member._--Clearly and distinctly heard the identical words?
_Sergeant._--Clear as mud, your honour.
_Member._--Yet you say the words were given in a whisper?
_Sergeant._--Yes, your honour, but it was so loud, there were several
men besides me who heard it, that were asleep at the same time, and not
so near as I was, becase they slept at the other side of the barrack.
_President._--You must either be a confounded oaf, or you wish to impose
upon the court. Take care you do not yourself become a prisoner and be
tried before this very court for perjury. I suppose you mean to say that
the prisoner's talking awoke you?
_Sergeant._--Fait! that's the very thing.
_President._--Then you heard the expressions after you awoke?
_Sergeant._--Fait! I did.
_President._--They were spoken quite loud?
_Sergeant._--- They were, your honour.
_President._--Your evidence is most extraordinary. Prisoner, have you
any questions to put to this witness?
_Prisoner._--Yes, if you plase, your honour. Where was I standing when
you heard me make use of the words you have been after mintioning to the
court?
_Sergeant._--Behind the pillar in the barrack.
_Prisoner._--Did you see me at the time?
_Sergeant._--Fait! did I, plain enough.
_President._--What do you suppose was the distance of this pillar from
you, sergeant?
_Sergeant._--About twelve feet, your honour.
_President._--You must have pretty good hearing, then, to hear a man
whisper at that distance.
_Sergeant._--The divel better hearing in the world.
_President_--How far, now, do you think you could hear a gunshot?
_Sergeant._--Ten miles off, if I was near enough.
_President._--You stupid fellow, if the sound reaches you, you must
hear.
_Sergeant._--Yes, your honour, but I meant that if I was wide awake I
could hear a gun ten miles off, if the report was loud enough. I heard
the guns at Vittoria when my eyes were shut and I was twenty miles off.
_President._--If I could suppose for a moment that your extraordinary
evidence proceeded from any other motive than utter ignorance, I would
this moment try, break, and flog you; but granting that your testimony
proceeds entirely from that channel, you are no longer fit for a
non-commissioned officer, and I shall speak to the commanding-officer to
reduce you.
The prisoner was released, and the proceedings terminated. It appeared
afterwards, that all the witness meant to say was, that he was awake,
but had his eyes shut, when the prisoner made use of the words alluded
to.
* * * * *
We did not remain at Saugar for above a month, after which the division
of the army to which I was attached was ordered to be broken up, and I
proceeded to rejoin my own corps at Cawnpore. This was in July, 1819;
from which period to the beginning of the year 1821, my time was spent
in domestic quiet, in the performance of the station-duties of my
profession, and in social intercourse with my brother officers. About
this period I was raised to the rank of lieutenant, and, to add to the
happiness which I then enjoyed, on the 22nd of March, 1821, I became a
father by the birth of a little boy. Little did I then think that this
blessing was the forerunner of much evil to me and mine; but just at this
crisis I entered into an agreement with the late Lieutenant-Colonel,
then Major, Browne, to run, in partnership with him, at the ensuing
Cawnpore races. My father-in-law being then in a bad state of health,
and just about to leave India, I obtained leave of absence for six
months, and accompanied him to Calcutta. Here I was to purchase certain
horses, &c., for the races; and the circumstances connected with this
unfortunate racing transaction led ultimately to a court-martial, the
sentence of which was as follows:
"The court, having maturely weighed and considered the evidence for and
against the prisoner, together with what he has urged in his defence,
is of opinion that he is guilty of both the charges preferred against
him, which being in breach of the Articles of War, it does sentence
him, Lieutenant John Shipp, of his Majesty's 87th regiment, to be
discharged his Majesty's service.
"Approved and confirmed,
(Signed) "EDWARD PAGET,
"_General, Commander-in-Chief_."
Attached to the sentence was the following recommendation of the
court:--
"The court having performed a painful but imperative duty, in
finding the prisoner guilty, beg respectfully, though earnestly, to
recommend him to the clemency of his excellency the
commander-in-chief. In presuming to express a wish that mercy may be
extended to the present case, the court are impressed with a hope
that the gallantry so frequently displayed by the prisoner, the
numerous wounds he has received, and the high and apparently merited
character which he has hitherto borne, will appear to his excellency
sufficient grounds for the court's thus warmly interesting
themselves in the prisoner's fate, and urging with anxious
solicitude the present recommendation.
"Before closing their proceedings, the court deem it a justice due
to Lieutenant-Colonel Browne, to express their opinion that his
conduct, as far as it has come before them, has been honourable to
himself and indulgent towards the prisoner."
_Remarks by the Commander-in-Chief._
"Lieutenant Shipp has thus, by his persevering resistance to the
advice of his late most respected commanding-officer, of the general
of his division, and of the commander-in-chief, brought upon himself
the heavy penalty of the forfeiture of his commission. Although
these are circumstances calculated greatly to aggravate the offences
of this officer, still the commander-in-chief is willing to hope
that, in yielding, as far as he feels it is consistent with his
duty, to the earnest intercession of the court, he runs no risk of
shaking the foundations of discipline and subordination. The
sentence of the court is accordingly remitted; but as, under all the
circumstances of the case, the commander-in-chief deems it quite
impossible that Lieutenant Shipp should continue to do duty with the
87th regiment, he grants him leave of absence from it, and shall
recommend that he be removed to the half-pay list.
"The foregoing orders to be entered in the General Order-Book, and
read at the head of every regiment in his Majesty's service in
India.
"By order of his Excellency the Commander-in-Chief,
(Signed) "THOMAS M'MAHON,
(A true copy.) "_Colonel, Adjutant-General._"
"_J Bowes, Lieutenant and Adjutant,
87th Regiment._"
On the tenth day of the proceedings, Colonel Browne, being examined on
oath, is questioned by the court:--
_Question._--"How long have you known the prisoner, and what was
your opinion of his character previous to the misunderstanding
between you and him?"
_Answer._--"I have known the prisoner since the year 1816. He was in
the light company with me for a considerable time, and distinguished
himself highly at Hattrass. I always considered him, and indeed know
him to be, up to the present moment, one of the best officers in his
Majesty's service."[16]
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
FOOTNOTES:
[16] A summary of the court-martial proceedings (which in the original
covered 300 foolscap folios) is given in the first edition of Shipp's
"Memoirs," but omitted from the edition of which the present volume is a
reprint.--ED.