A Grand Plaza.--Retribution.--The University of
Lima.--Significance of Ancient
Pottery.--Architecture.--Picturesque Dwelling.--Domestic
Scene.--Destructive Earthquakes.--Spanish Sway.--Women of
Lima.--Street Costumes.--Ancient Bridge of
Lima.--Newspapers.--Pawnbrokers' Shops.--Exports.--An
Ancient Mecca.--Home by Way of Europe.
The large square in Lima, known as Plazuela de la Independencia, is
grand in its proportions. One prominent feature is the bronze statue of
Bolivar, the famous South American patriot. It also contains the old
palace of the Inquisition, which looks to-day more like a stable than a
palace. This detestable institution attained to greater scope and power
here than it did even in Mexico. According to its own records, during
its existence in the capital of Peru, fifty-nine persons were publicly
burned alive as heretics, because they would not acknowledge the Roman
Catholic faith, thousands were tortured until in their agony they agreed
to anything, while thousands were publicly scourged to the same end.
Could the truth be fully known as regards the bigoted reign of the
priesthood at the time referred to in Peru, it would form one of the
most startling chapters of modern history. But they were their own
chroniclers, and suppressed everything which might possibly reflect upon
themselves or upon their church. Retribution was slow, but it has come
finally. The former convent of Guadeloupe is now occupied for a worthy
object as a high school; the main portion of the cloisters of San
Francisco have made way for the college of San Marco; that of San Carlos
has supplanted the Jesuits; San Juan de Dios is now occupied as a
railway station; while the once famous and infamous convent of Santa
Catalina serves to-day as the public market.
The University of Lima was the first seat of education established in
the New World, or, to fix the period more clearly in the average
reader's mind, it dates from about seventy years before the historic
Mayflower reached the shore of New England. The National Library
contains some forty thousand volumes, also a collection of Peruvian
antiquities, besides many objects of natural history, mostly of such
examples as are indigenous to this section. There is one large oil
painting in this building by a native artist named Monteros, the canvas
measuring thirty by twenty feet. The title is "Obsequies of Atahualpa."
This was carried away by the thieving Chilians, but was finally restored
to Peru. It should be mentioned, to their lasting shame, that the books
which they stole at the same time have not been returned.
The ancient pottery one sees in the collection of Peruvian antiquities
is wonderfully like that to be found in the Boulak Museum at Cairo, in
Egypt, Etruscan and Egyptian patterns prevailing over all other forms,
which strongly suggests a common origin. Besides those which we have
named, there are several other educational and art institutions in the
city, together with three hospitals, two lunatic asylums, a college of
arts, and the National Mint. One hospital, bearing the name of the
Second of May Hospital, is a very large and thoroughly equipped
establishment, occupying a whole square, and having accommodations for
seven hundred patients. There are four theatres, one of which is
conducted by the Chinese after their own peculiar fashion. The outsides
of the dwelling-houses are painted in various brilliant colors, a
practice which is found to prevail all over the southern continent, and
which exhibits an inherent love among the people for warm, bright hues.
The roofs of most houses serve as a depository for hens and chickens,
noisy gamecocks especially asserting themselves before daybreak,
forbidding all ideas of morning naps, unless one is accustomed to the
din. Many of the dwellings are picturesque and attractive, with
overhanging balconies and bay windows, the latter oftentimes finished
very elaborately with handsome wood carvings and open-work lattices. As
to the prevailing style of architecture, it is Spanish and Moorish
combined, each building being constructed about a central patio, which
is often rendered lovely with flowers and statuary, together with small
orange and lemon trees in large painted tubs.
The abundance of cracks in the walls of the dwellings, both inside and
out, is a significant hint that we are in an earthquake country. A
slight shake is hardly spoken of at all; they come so often as to be
comparatively unheeded.
In the environs of Lima the houses are built of adobe, rarely over one
story in height, with very thick walls, this style having been found the
best to resist the earthquakes, which must be very serious indeed to
affect a low adobe house with walls two feet and a half thick. About
these residences, which, not to put too fine a point upon the matter,
are really nothing but mud cabins, there is often seen an attractive and
refining feature, namely, small, but exceedingly pretty plots of
cultivated flowers. It is astonishing how perfectly they serve to throw
a flavor of refinement over all things else. The variety and fragrance
of the Lima roses are something long to be remembered, and the people
here seem to have a special love for this most popular of flowers. We
had missed them nearly everywhere else in South America; therefore they
were thrice welcome when they greeted us at Lima.
There is a dwelling-house in this city belonging to an old and rich
family, which is worth a pilgrimage to see. It is built of stone,
artistically carved, with a square balcony and bay window on each side
of the tall, spacious, and elaborately ornamented doorway. It is clearly
Moorish in type, and must be nearly or quite three hundred years old.
Photographs are found of its facade in the art stores of Lima, and most
visitors bring one away with them as a memento of the place. The house
stands even with the thoroughfare, and is only two stories in height,
but is a beautiful relic of the past. It would be quite in accordance
with the surroundings, were it to be transported to Cairo or Bagdad.
On the way from the Plaza Mayor to this attractive bit of Morisco
architecture, one gets frequent glimpses of pretty, cool, flower-decked
patios, about which the low picturesque dwellings are erected, and where
domestic life is seen in partial seclusion. An infant is playing on the
marble paved court, watched by a dark Indian nurse. An ermine-colored
cockatoo with a gorgeous yellow plume is gravely eying the child from
its perch. Creeping vines twine about the slim columns which support a
low arcade above the entrance floor. Farther in, a bit of statuary peeps
out from among the greenery, which is growing in high-colored wooden
tubs. The vine, which clings tenaciously to the small columns, is the
passion plant, its flowers seeming almost artificial in their
regularity, brightness, and abundance. A fair senora in diaphanous robes
reclines at ease in a low, pillowed seat, and the senor, cigarette in
mouth, swings leisurely in a hammock.
It was a pretty, characteristic family picture, of which we should be
glad to possess a photograph.
Few cities have a more agreeable climate. The range of the thermometer
throughout the year being for the winter season from 68 deg. to 75 deg., and in
the summer from 80 deg. to 88 deg.. The Humboldt current, as it is called,
sweeps along the coast from the Antarctic circle, causing a much lower
temperature here than exists in the same latitude on the other side of
the continent. Lima, it will be remembered, is situated about twelve
degrees from the equatorial line. The climate is of exquisite softness,
beneath a sky serenely blue; every breath is a pleasure, tranquillizing
to both mind and body. Rain is of very rare occurrence, as we have
intimated, but earthquakes are frequent. The most destructive visit of
this sort in modern times was in 1745, which at the same time destroyed
the port of Callao. Though Lima is blessed with such a seemingly equable
climate, for some unexplained reason it is very far from being a healthy
place. The great mortality which prevails here is entirely out of
proportion to the number of inhabitants. There must be some local reason
for this. Even in the days of the Incas, the present site of the city
was deemed to be a spot only fit for criminals; that is to say, a penal
colony was located here, where the earlier Peruvians placed condemned
people, and where a high rate of mortality was not regarded as being
entirely objectionable. The Campo Santo of Lima, in the immediate
environs of the city, is built with tall thick walls containing niches
four ranges high, and recalls those of the city of Mexico. It is not
customary to bury in the ground. Some of the monuments are quite
elaborate, but the place generally has a neglected appearance, and no
attempt seems made to give it a pleasing aspect. It has neither flowers
nor trees.
The Spaniards, during a sway which lasted over three hundred years, were
terrible taskmasters in Peru, enslaving, crushing, and massacring the
natives, just as they did in Cuba and Mexico. The Indians were looked
upon as little more than beasts of burden, and their lives or well-being
were of no sort of account, except so far as they served the purposes of
the invading hordes of Spaniards. The race which has been produced by
intermarriage and promiscuous intercourse is a very heterogeneous one,
born of aborigines, negroes, mulattoes, Spaniards, and Portuguese. In
religion, as well as in daily life, the habits of the people are
Castilian, whether red, yellow, or black. There is also a considerable
Chinese population, which, however, as a rule, maintains isolation from
other nationalities so far as intermarriage or close intimacy is
concerned. Many of the Chinese keep cheap eating-houses, and always seem
to be industrious and thrifty. They are the outcome of the coolie trade,
by which the Peruvian plantations were for years supplied with
laborers,--slave labor, for that is exactly what it was to all intents
and purposes, call it what we may. But this cruel and unjust system has
long been suppressed. Most of the small shops are kept by Italians, and
the best hotels by Frenchmen. The banking-houses are usually conducted
by Germans, while Americans and Englishmen divide the engineering work,
the construction of railways, with such other progressive enterprises as
require a large share of brains, energy, and capital.
The women are generally handsome and of the Spanish type, yet they
differ therefrom in some important and very obvious particulars. Their
gypsy complexions, jet black hair and eyes, white, regular teeth, with
full red lips, form a combination very pleasing to the eye. It must be
acknowledged, however, that their complexions are aided by cosmetics.
The features are small and regular, the ears being set particularly
close to the head, which is always a noticeable peculiarity when it
prevails. They are vivacious and mirthful, yet not forward or immodest.
As regards the youthful portion, conventionality prevents all exhibition
of the latter trait. In dress they follow the styles of Boston, New
York, and Paris. As their brothers have been mostly educated in the
cities named, they very generally speak French and English. Many of the
ladies have themselves enjoyed the advantages of English, French, or
North American schools in their girlhood. A certain etiquette as regards
the society of men is very strictly observed here. No gentleman can
associate with a young lady unless she is chaperoned by her mother or a
married sister. From what we know of Spanish and Italian character, we
are not at all surprised at the punctiliousness adhered to in both
countries in this regard. There are very good reasons why such rules are
imperative, not only in South America, but in continental Europe. Like
most of the Spanish women, these of Lima, after the age of twenty-five,
though they are rather short, and of small frames, nearly always develop
into a decided fullness of figure.
There is a semi-oriental seclusion observed at all times as regards the
sex in this country. They are rarely seen upon the streets, except when
driving, or going and coming from church; but one need not watch very
closely to see many inquisitive eyes peeping from behind the curtained
balconies which overhang the thoroughfares, and to catch occasionally
stolen glances from pretty, coquettish owners, who would be very
hospitable to strangers if they dared.
Human nature is much the same in Lima as elsewhere. When seen on the
streets, the ladies generally wear the black "manta" drawn close about
the head and shoulders and partially covering the face. The manta is a
shawl and bonnet combined, or rather it takes the place of a bonnet, and
suggests the lace veil so universally worn at Havana, Seville, and
Madrid, also recalling the yashmak worn by the women of the East. The
Lima ladies cover half the face, including one eye; those of Egypt only
cover the lower part of the face, leaving both eyes exposed.
We are speaking of the better class of the metropolis. Among the more
common people, instances of great personal beauty are frequent. One sees
daily youthful girls on the streets who would be pronounced beautiful
under nearly any circumstances, an inheritance only too often proving a
fatal legacy to the owner, forming a source of temptation in a community
where morals are held of such slight account, except among the more
refined classes, of whom we have been speaking.
One peculiarity is especially noticeable here among the native race: it
is that the Peruvians seem to be mere lookers-on as regards the business
of life in their country. All of the important trade is, as we have
said, in the hands of foreigners. The English control the shipping
interests, almost entirely, while the skilled machinists are nearly all
Americans, with a few Scotchmen. We repeat this fact as showing the
do-nothing nature of the natives, and also as signifying that for true
progress, indeed, for the growth of civilization in any desirable
direction, emigration from Europe and North America must be depended
upon.
The heavy alcoves of the old stone bridge at Lima are appropriated by
the fruit women, whose tempting display forms glowing bits of color. The
thoroughfares are crowded by itinerant peddlers of all sorts of
merchandise. Milk-women come from the country, mounted astride of small
horses or donkeys; water carriers trot about on jackasses, sitting
behind their water jars and uttering piercing cries; Chinese food
venders, with articles made from mysterious sources, balance their
baskets at either end of long poles placed across their shoulders; the
lottery-ticket vender, loud voiced and urgent, is ever present;
newspaper boys, after our own fashion, shout "El Pais," or "El
Nacional;" chicken dealers, with baskets full of live birds on their
head and half a dozen hanging from each hand, solicit your patronage;
beggars of both sexes, but mostly lazy, worthless men, feign pitiful
lameness, while importuning every stranger for a centavo; bright,
careless girls and boys rush hither and thither, full of life and
spirit,--black, yellow, brown, and white, all mingling together on an
equal footing. The absence of wheeled vehicles is noticeable, the
tramway-cars gliding rapidly past the pedestrians, while pack-horses and
donkeys transport mostly such merchandise as is not carried on the heads
of men and women. Of the better class of citizens who help to make up
this polyglot community of the metropolis, one very easily distinguishes
the American, French, German, and English; each nationality is somehow
distinctively marked.
The stock of goods offered for sale in the pawnbrokers' shops, as a
rule, is very significant in foreign cities; here the shelves of these
dealers are full of valuable domestic articles, which the fallen
fortunes of the once rich Lima families have compelled them to part with
from time to time in a struggle to keep the wolf from the door. The
Chilians took all they could readily find of both public and private
property, and though they ruined financially some of the best families,
they did not succeed in getting everything which was portable and
valuable. Heirlooms are offered in these shops for comparatively
trifling sums, such as rich old lace; diamonds; superbly wrought
bracelets in gold, rubies, topazes, and other precious stones, set and
unset; gold and silver spoons and forks of curious designs, and of which
only one set were ever manufactured, intended to fill a special order
and suit the fancy of some rich family. Drinking-cups bearing royal
crests, and others with the arms of noble Castilian families engraved
upon them, are numerous. There are also swords with jeweled hilts, gold
and silver table ornaments, together with antique china, which might
rival the Satsuma of Japan. Curio hunters have secured many, nay, nearly
all, of the very choicest of these domestic relics, which they have
mostly taken to London, where they obtained fabulous prices for them.
We were told of an enterprising Yankee who invested one thousand dollars
in these articles, took them to England, and promptly realized some
eleven thousand dollars above all his expenses upon the venture.
Returning to Rio Janeiro, on the east coast, he purchased precious
stones with his increased capital, and, strange to say, although he was
by no means an expert, among his gems he secured an old mine diamond of
great value at a low figure, which, having been crudely cut, did not
exhibit its real excellence. Taking the whole of his second purchase to
Paris, he disposed of his gems at a large advance, and finally returned
to New York with a net capital exceeding forty thousand dollars. This
enterprising and successful individual bore the euphonious name of
Smyth,--Smyth with a _y_,--Alfred Smyth.
The three watering-places, or country villages of Miraflores, Baranco,
and Chorillos, are connected with Lima by railway, and in these resorts
many city merchants have their summer homes, occupying picturesque
ranches. The Chilians sacked and burned these places during the war, but
they have been mostly rebuilt, and are once more in a thriving
condition.
Peru was celebrated for centuries as the most prolific gold and silver
producing country in the world; her very name has long been the synonym
for riches. Although the product of the precious metals is still
considerable, yet it is quite insignificant compared with the revenue
which she has realized from the export of guano and phosphates. The
former article, as we have already said, has become virtually exhausted,
and the latter source of supply, still immensely prolific and valuable,
has been stolen from her bodily by the Chilians, so that Peru has now to
fall back upon industry and the remaining natural resources of the soil.
The most remarkable peculiarity in the physical formation of Peru is the
double Cordillera of the Andes, which traverse it from southeast to
northwest, separating the country into three distinct regions, which
differ materially from each other in climate, soil, and vegetation. To
the proximity of the range nearest to the coast is undoubtedly to be
attributed the frequent earthquakes which disturb the shore, whether the
volcanoes are apparently extinct or not. It may be reasonably doubted if
any of the volcanoes are absolutely extinct, in the full sense of the
term. They may be inoperative, so far as can be seen, for an entire
century, and at its close break out in full vigor. In consulting the
authorities upon this subject we find that, since 1570, there have been
sixty-nine destructive earthquakes recorded as having taken place on the
west coast of South America. The most terrible of them was that already
referred to, which destroyed Callao in 1745. It is stated that the
shocks at that time continued with more or less violence for three
consecutive months, and the records of the event further state that
there were two hundred and twenty distinct shocks within the twenty-four
hours following the enormous tidal wave which overwhelmed Callao. At
present, hardly a week passes without decided indications of volcanic
disturbance occurring, but these are of so slight a nature,
comparatively speaking, that but little attention is paid to them by the
native population, though it is true that sensitive strangers often turn
pale at such an event and tremble with fearful anticipations.
About twenty miles south of Lima, on elevated ground which overlooks the
Pacific, is the prehistoric spot known as Pachacamac, in the valley of
the Lurin River. The name signifies the "Creator of the World," to whom
the city and its temples were originally dedicated. Here, upon the edge
of the desert, once stood the sacred city of a people who preceded the
Incas, and who have left in these interesting, mouldering ruins tokens
of their advanced civilization, as clearly defined as are those of
Thebes, in far away Egypt. Another fact should not be lost sight of in
this connection, that many ancient remains to be found in this
neighborhood evince a higher degree of intelligence, in their
constructive belongings, than do any evidences left to us respecting the
days of the Incas, with whom we are in a measure familiar. The
archaeologists, whose profession it is to carefully weigh even the
slightest tangible evidence which time has spared, long since came to
this conclusion.
Pachacamac was the Mecca of South America, or at least of the most
civilized portion of it, if we may judge by present appearances, and by
the testimony of history as far back as it reaches.
The ruins at Pachacamac consist of walls formed of adobe and sun-dried
bricks, some of which can be traced, notwithstanding the many
earthquakes which have shaken the neighborhood. The site of the ruins is
a hilly spot, and the sands have drifted so as to cover them in many
places, just as the Sphinx and the base of the pyramids have been
covered, near Cairo. Specific ruins are designated as having once been
the grand temple of the sun, and others as the house of the sacred
virgins of the sun. It is very obvious that the Incas destroyed a grand
and spacious temple here, which legend tells us was heavily adorned with
silver and gold, to make way for one of their own dedicated to the
worship of the sun. Who this race were and whence they came, with so
considerable a system of civilization, is a theme which has long
absorbed the speculative antiquarian. It is easy enough to construct
theories which may meet the case, but it is difficult to support them
when they are subjected to the cold arguments of reason and the test of
known history. Actual knowledge is a great iconoclast, and smashes the
poetical images of the unreliable historian with a ruthless hand. The
Spanish records relating to the period of early discovery here, as also
of Pizarro's career and the doing of the agents of the Romish Church,
have long since been proven to be absolutely unworthy of belief.
About the ruins of Pachacamac was once a sacred burial place, where
well-preserved mummies are still to be found, but the great, silent,
ruined city itself does not contain one living inhabitant. The
graveyard--the Campo Santo--remains, as it were, intact, but the proud
city, with its grand temples dedicated to unknown gods, has crumbled to
dust.
Curiously carved gold and silver vases and ornaments, exhibiting the
exercise of a high degree of artistic skill, have been exhumed in the
vast graveyard surrounding these ruins, whose extent, if judged by the
number of interments which have taken place here, must have been ten
times larger than the present site of Lima, and it must have contained a
population many times larger than that of the present capital of Peru.
In the mouths of the well-preserved mummies found buried here, we are
told that gold coins were found, presumably placed there to pay for
ferriage across the river of death. Here we have a fact also worthy of
note. It thus appears that this people must have had a circulating
medium in the shape of gold coin. As the placing of coin in the mouth of
the deceased was a custom of the ancient Greeks, may it not be that
these people came originally from Greece or from some contiguous
country?
There are numerous other ancient remains in the neighborhood of Lima, of
which even tradition fails to give any account. Antiquarians find many
clues to special knowledge of the past in the remains which can be
exhumed in places on the coast of Chili and Peru, in the ancient graves
where the nitrous soil has preserved not only the bodies of a former
people, but also their tools, weapons, and domestic utensils.
* * * * *
To reach the United States from Callao, the most direct course is to
sail northward fifteen hundred miles to Panama, and cross the isthmus,
again taking ship from the Atlantic side; but the author's family
awaited him in Europe, and as the Pacific mail service exactly met his
requirements, he sailed southward, touching at several of the ports
already visited, crossing the Atlantic by way of the Canary and Cape de
Verde Islands to Lisbon, thence to Southampton and to London. Joining
his family, he crossed the Atlantic from Liverpool to Boston, after an
absence of seven months, traveling in all of this equatorial journey
some thirty thousand miles without any serious mishap, and having
acquired a largely augmented fund of pleasurable memories.
By Maturin M. Ballou.
EQUATORIAL AMERICA. Descriptive of a Visit to St. Thomas,
Martinique, Barbadoes, and the Principal Capitals of
South America. A New Book. Crown 8vo, $1.50.
AZTEC LAND. Crown 8vo, $1.50.
THE NEW ELDORADO. A Summer Journey to Alaska. Crown 8vo,
$1.50.
ALASKA. The New Eldorado. A Summer Journey to Alaska.
_Tourist's Edition_, with 4 maps. 16mo, $1.00.
DUE WEST; or, ROUND THE WORLD IN TEN MONTHS. Crown 8vo,
$1.50.
DUE SOUTH; or, CUBA PAST AND PRESENT. Crown 8vo, $1.50.
UNDER THE SOUTHERN CROSS; or, TRAVELS IN AUSTRALASIA. Crown
8vo, $1.50.
DUE NORTH; or, GLIMPSES OF SCANDINAVIA AND RUSSIA. Crown
8vo, $1.50.
GENIUS IN SUNSHINE AND SHADOW. Crown 8vo, $1.50.
EDGE-TOOLS OF SPEECH. Selected and edited by Mr. BALLOU.
8vo, $3.50.
A TREASURY OF THOUGHT. An Encyclopedia of Quotations. 8vo,
full gilt, $3.50.
PEARLS OF THOUGHT. 16mo, full gilt, $1.25.
NOTABLE THOUGHTS ABOUT WOMEN. Crown 8vo, $1.50.
HOUGHTON, MIFFLIN & COMPANY,
BOSTON AND NEW YORK.
Transcriber's Notes:
List of books by Maturin M. Ballou was moved from the first page
to the end of the book.
Obsolete and alternate spellings of words were not changed.
Alterations to the text:
changed 'Hurricances' to 'Hurricanes' in Chapter I summary.
changed 'salter' to 'saltier' ... water is saltier than ...
removed hyphen from Ant-illes ... in those days the Antilles!...
changed 'adode' to 'adobe' ... adobe and sun-dried bricks ...
Changes made for consistency with remaining text:
added period after 'Private Gardens' in Chapter V summary.
added hyphen to 'well appointed'
... commodious, and well-appointed ship,...
... large and well-appointed opera house ...
removed hyphen from 'mail-boat'
... as a mail boat running between ...
removed hyphen from 'sailing-vessel'
... individuality about sailing vessels which ...
removed hyphen from 'fruit-tree'
... the fruit trees are perennial,...
removed hyphen from 'light-green'
... round, light green berry ...
removed hyphen from 'well-known'
... his well known reason ...
... This well known port ...
removed hyphen from 'summer-houses'
... pretty summer houses and ...
added hyphen to 'mossgrown'
... which are gray and moss-grown,...
... the moss-grown, crumbling ...
removed hyphen from 'bee-hive'
... formed an immense human beehive ...
added hyphen to 'well arranged'
... white stone, well-arranged, and is ...
removed hyphen from 'tail-fin'
... tip of the tail fin,...
removed hyphen from 'so called'
... from the so called cross ...
added hyphen to 'well equipped'
... upon well-equipped railroads ...
removed hyphen from 'copper-colored'
... but their brown or copper colored skins ...
added hyphen to 'waterway'
... this unequaled water-way,...
added hyphen to 'low lying'
... all the low-lying tropical lands ...
removed hyphen from 'house-fronts'
... The house fronts in the various sections ...
added hyphen to 'sea birds'
... myriads of sea-birds, whose sharp cries ...
added hyphen to 'curious shaped'
... curious-shaped coasting craft ...
added hyphen to 'sky line'
... breaks the sky-line in front of ...
added hyphen to 'far reaching'
... the far-reaching shores ...
removed hyphen from 'deep-green'
... with its deep green foliage ...
removed hyphen from 'yellow-ochre'
... by the yellow ochre walls ...
removed hyphen from 'tide-wate'
... feet above tide water....
... the nearest tide water ...
removed hyphen from 'well-organized'
... any well organized education establishment ...
added hyphen to 'fancy goods'
... many of the fancy-goods stores ...
added hyphen to 'stovepipe'
... with tall, stove-pipe hats ...
added hyphen to 'never failing'
... the lottery with never-failing regularity ...
removed hyphen from 'well-wooded'
... among the well wooded hills ...
removed hyphen from 'well-paved'
... drainage and well paved streets ...
... broad, well paved streets,...
added hyphen to 'half naked'
... the inhabitants half-naked and wholly starved...
deleted hyphen in 'snow-white'
... natty straw hats, snow white aprons,...
... a broad snow white ruffle ...
removed hyphen from 'well-dressed'
... are a well dressed class ...