CHAPTER IX.

Outdoor Scenes in Rio Janeiro.--The Little Marmoset.--The

Fish Market.--Secluded Women.--The Romish Church.--Botanical

Garden.--Various Species of Trees.--Grand Avenue of Royal

Palms.--About Humming-Birds.--Climate of Rio.--Surrounded by

Yellow Fever.--The Country Inland.--Begging on the

Streets.--Flowers.--"Portuguese Joe."--Social Distinctions.

It would require many pages to properly describe Rio Janeiro with its

curious phases of street life, its manners and customs, its local

peculiarities, and moving panorama of events, all combining to make up a

unique personality. These out-of-door scenes go far to tell the true

story of any special locality. The fruit and vegetable market, near

Palace Square, is a highly attractive place to visit at early morning.

The negro women venders, always stout and portly creatures, with heads

turbaned in many-colored bandannas, are eloquent in recommending their

articles for sale, and are also very shrewd at a bargain. It is not

uncommon for these middle-aged negresses to stand six feet high, without

shoes or stockings, and to turn the scales at double the average weight

of men of the same color and class. These women were all slaves in their

girlhood. As regards prices charged for provisions, fruits, and

vegetables, in the markets of Rio, they seemed to the author rather

exorbitant, but doubtless permanent residents do not pay such sums as

are charged to strangers for the same articles. We were heartily laughed

at by a housekeeper on stating the cost of a small basket of choice

fruit which we had purchased, being told that we had paid four times its

market value. However, it was well worth the price to us, who had just

arrived from an ocean voyage of five thousand miles and more. On

shipboard fruit is necessarily a scarce article, and it was certainly

worth something extra to be introduced for the first time to the

luscious products of this region.

The abundance and variety of flowers, as well as their cheapness and

fragrance, make them a desirable morning purchase, with all their dewy

freshness upon them. Oranges, limes, pineapples, lemons,

alligator-pears, cocoanuts, grapes, mangoes, with an infinite variety of

other fruits, make up the stock in trade, together with squealing pigs,

live turkeys, and noisy guinea-fowls. Here also are various gaudy

feathered songsters, in cheap, home-made cages, besides monkeys,

marmosets, and other household pets. The macaws, chained by the leg, and

the screaming parrots vie with each other and with the monkeys in the

amount of noise they make. Wicker baskets filled with live ducks, geese,

and fowls are borne on the heads of native women, who have brought them

many a long weary mile from far inland, hoping to make a few pennies by

their sale. The chatter of the women, the cries of men and animals, an

occasional quarrel between two noisy Italians, ending in furious

vociferations and gesticulations, all add to the Babel of sound. One

little marmoset put his hand into that of the author, looking so

appealingly into his face that, imagining the little fellow might be

hungry, some nice edibles, calculated to rejoice the monkey heart, were

promptly purchased and gratefully received by the marmoset, which, in

his eager haste to consume the same, stuffed the sides of either jaw to

alarming proportions. The little creature was wonderfully human, and

having found a kindly disposed stranger, insisted upon keeping one of

his tiny hands in our own, while he rapidly filled his mouth with the

other.

It is interesting to observe the artistic manner in which the native

women, Indians and blacks, mingle and arrange the various fruits and

vegetables, showing a natural instinct for the harmonious blending of

colors and forms. A pile of yellow oranges, green limes, and mangoes had

a base of buff-colored bananas picturesquely arranged with all the

pointed ends of the finger-like fruit outward, while a luscious ripe

pineapple formed the apex of the pile, set off jauntily by its

cactus-like, prickly leaves. On the borders of the market and along the

iron railing of Palace Square, black-haired, bareheaded Italian women

displayed cheap jewelry, imitation shell, gilded combs, and other fancy

trinkets for sale, embracing priestly knick-knacks, ivory crosses,

crucifixion scenes, coral beads, high-colored ribbons, and gaudy

kerchiefs. The bronzed faces of these black-eyed, gypsy-like women were

very cadaverous, as though the land of their adoption did not

particularly agree with them. It seems hardly possible that these

peddlers could gain a livelihood trading in these tawdry and utterly

useless articles among such a humble, impecunious class of customers as

frequent the market, and yet their numerous wide-open, shallow tin boxes

showed a considerable stock of goods.

The fish market is a curious sight in the variety of colors and shapes

afforded by the inhabitants of the neighboring bay, where most of them

are caught. What an array of finny monsters!--rock-fish, large as

halibut, ray, skates, craw-fish, cuttle-fish, and prawns half as large

as lobsters, together with devil-fish and oysters. Funny idea, but these

oysters, many of them, are grown on trees! How is this possible? Let us

tell you. The mangrove trees line the water's edge; many of the branches

overhang the sea, and are submerged therein. To these young oysters

affix themselves, and there they live and thrive. The same phenomenon

was observed by the author some years ago in Cuba. These oysters are

found in small corrugated shells scarcely larger than a good-sized

English walnut, which they somewhat resemble.

In the fish market one sees some very original characters among the

negro women who preside over the finny tribe. They are large,

good-natured creatures, quick at a trade, and quite intelligent. We

recall one, who was a prominent figure among her companions. She was

tall, portly, and strong as a horse. Her head was decked with a bandanna

kerchief of many colors, her flat nose and protruding lips indicating

close African relationship. Secured behind one of her ears was a

cigarette, while a friction match protruded from the other, ready for

use. Her coarse calico dress, of deep red, was covered in front by a

brown linen apron extending nearly to her bare feet. Her uncovered arms

were about as large as a man's legs. This negress dressed the several

kinds of fish with the facility of an expert, making change for her

patrons with commendable promptness, and dismissing them with a

good-natured smile, adding some remark which was pretty sure to elicit

hearty laughter.

As we stood viewing these things, a noisy fellow made himself very

obnoxious to every person whom he met. He had evidently been too often

to the neighboring spirit-shops. A police officer arrested the man by

touching him lightly on the shoulder and saying a few words to him;

then, pointing ahead, made the fellow precede him to the lock-up. Though

this disturber of the peace was half drunk, he knew too much to resist

an officer, which is considered to be a heinous offense and is severely

punished in Rio. It was natural to contrast this scene with the violent

resistance offered by offenders with whom the police of New York and

Boston have often to deal.

The streets of Rio, at all times of the day, present a motley crowd of

half-naked negroes, overladen donkeys, lazy Portuguese, Italian, and

Spanish loafers, smoking cheap cigars, with here and there a Jew hawking

articles of personal wear, women with various heavy articles upon their

heads, water carriers, vociferous sellers of confectionery, all moving

hither and thither, each one intent upon his or her individual interest

and oblivious of all others. The background to this kaleidoscopic

picture is the low, stucco-finished houses, painted in lively red,

yellow, or blue, interspersed here and there by bas-reliefs, the whole

reflecting the rays of a torrid sun. Though it is all quite different,

yet somehow it recalls the narrow, crowded streets and bazaars of Cairo

and Alexandria. It is very natural, in passing, to regard with interest

those screened balconies, and to imagine what the lives may be of the

half orientally excluded women within them, while occasionally catching

luminous glances from curious eyes. The notes of a guitar, or those of

the piano, often reach the ear of the passer-by, sometimes accompanied

by the ringing notes of a song, for the ladies of Brazil are extremely

fond of music; indeed, it seems to be almost their only distraction. Of

books they know very little, and any literary reference is to them like

speaking in an unknown tongue. Even the one poet of Portugal, Camoens,

appears to be a stranger on this side of the Atlantic. The isolation and

want of intellectual resort among the average women of this country are

a sad reality, and are in a degree their excuse for some unfortunate

indulgences and immoralities, domestic unfaithfulness being as common

here as in Paris or Vienna.

The majority of the Brazilian women marry at or before the age of

sixteen, and become old, as we use the term, at thirty. The climate and

the cares of maternity together age them prematurely. In early youth,

and until they have reached twenty three or four years, they are almost

universally very handsome, but this beauty is not retained, as is often

the case among the sex in colder climes. Of their charms, it must be

honestly admitted that they are almost purely physical (animal); the

beauty which high culture imparts to the features, by informing the mind

and developing the intellect, is not found as a rule among Brazilian

women. Of course there are some delightful and notable exceptions to

this conclusion, but we speak of the women, generally, of what is termed

the better class. Now and then one meets with ladies who have been

educated in the United States, or in Europe, upon whom early and refined

associations have left an unmistakable impress. The superiority of such

is at once manifest, both in general ease of manner, and the

inexplicable charm which high breeding imparts.

One searches in vain for a full-faced, well-developed, hearty looking

man, among the natives in the streets of this capital. The average

people, both high and low, are sallow, undersized, and cadaverous.

Sunken cheeks and thin figures are the rule among the men, a passing

North American or Englishman only serving to furnish a strong and

suggestive contrast. These people have brilliantly expressive eyes, with

handsome teeth and mouths, though half shriveled up and undeveloped in

body. If one pauses to analyze the matter, he comes to the conclusion

that vice and short commons, unwholesome morals and an unwholesome

climate, have much to do with this prevailing appearance, which must be

in part hereditary, to be so universal, commencing some way back and

increasing with the generations. As in Mexico, gentlemen meeting on the

streets of Rio hug each other with both arms, at the same time

inflicting two or three quick, earnest slaps with the flat of the hand

upon the back. This is perhaps after an absence of a few days; but if

they meet ten times a day, off come their hats, and they shake hands

with the most earnest demonstrations, both at meeting and at parting.

Kissing on both cheeks is common enough in many parts of Europe among

society people, but this hugging business between men meeting upon the

public streets strikes one as a waste of the raw material.

It goes without saying that the popular religion of Rio Janeiro and the

country at large is that of the Romish Church, though all denominations

are tolerated by the laws of the republic. In some districts it is the

same here as in Mexico and continental Spain, the Protestants being

persecuted in every possible manner. Nevertheless, the power of the

priesthood, we were creditably informed, is on the wane. They owe the

loss of it in a great measure to the gross abuse of their positions and

their shamefully immoral lives. No one conversant with the true state of

the case, be he Protestant or Romanist, can deny this statement. The

author thought that the Roman Catholic priests of Mexico were about as

wicked a set of men as he had ever met with, taken as a whole, but

further experience in South America has convinced him that the Mexican

priesthood have their equals in immorality in Brazil, and elsewhere

south of Panama. The popular religion of the country is one of the

saddest features of its national existence, forming the great

drag-weight upon its moral, and indirectly upon its physical progress.

The Botanical Garden of Rio is a justly famous resort, situated about

six miles from the city, behind the Corcovada, between that mountain and

the sea, but it is easily reached by tramway, or better still by a

delightful drive along the shore of Botafogo Bay, over a road shaded by

imperial palms, together with occasional clusters of the ever beautiful

bamboo, the sight of which recalled the luxuriant specimens seen in

Japan and Sumatra. The nearest approach to this admirable public garden

is to be found at Kandy, in the island of Ceylon, which, as we remember

it, is considerably more extensive, and presents a larger variety of

tropical vegetation. The examples of the india-rubber tree, especially,

are finer in the Asiatic garden than we find them at Rio. A tall,

slim-stemmed sloth-tree, straight as an arrow, and bare of branches or

leaves except at the top, was pointed out to us here. It is so called

because it is the favorite resort of that animal. This creature is very

easily captured, and the natives are fond of its meat, which may be

nutritious, but it can hardly be called palatable. As it is almost

entirely a vegetable-feeding animal, we know not why there should be any

objection to the meat it produces. The sloth climbs up into the tall

branches of the tree described, though it does so with considerable

difficulty, and there remains until it has consumed every leaf and

tender shoot which it bears; then the voracious creature wanders off to

find and denude another.

The bread-fruit tree is interesting, with its handsome feathery leaves,

and its large, melon-shaped product. It grows to fifty feet in height,

and bears fruit constantly for three quarters of the year, then takes a

three months' rest. It is only equaled in the profuseness of its product

by the banana, forming one of the staple sources of food supply to the

lazy, indolent denizens of tropical regions. The candelabra-tree, with

its silver-tinted foliage, is one of the beauties of this charming

Brazilian garden. Among other notable trees are fine specimens of the

camphor-tree, the tamarind, the broad-spreading mango, opulent in

fruitfulness, the flowering magnolia, also the soap-tree, with its

saponaceous berries. The cochineal cactus was thriving after its kind,

near by what is called the cow-tree, which interests one quite as much

as any of its companions, rising over a hundred feet in height, with a

red bark and fig-like leaves. The milk which it yields is of cream-like

consistency, very similar to that from a cow, and it may be used for any

ordinary purpose to which we put that article. The tree is tapped, as we

treat the sugar-maple, in order to obtain its very remarkable and useful

product. It is nutritious, that is freely admitted; but most probably it

has some medicinal properties of a latent character, though of this we

could learn nothing.

The world-famed avenue of royal palms in the Botanical Garden of Rio is

unique, being undoubtedly the finest tropical arboretum in the world

arranged by the hand of man. We saw here a delicate little member of the

palm family, a sort of baby tree, known as the small-stemmed palm of

Para. Many trees from Asia have become domesticated side by side with

the maple, the pine, and the elm from New England. Some of the large

trees were decked with orchids and hanging lichens, the dainty and

fantastic ornamentation of nature herself, not promoted by artificial

means. The humidity of the atmosphere especially facilitates the growth

of this beautiful family of plants, which are as erratic in shape as

they are variegated in prismatic colors.

It would require a whole chapter to do even partial justice to this

remarkable garden behind the Corcovado mountain.

One sees here myriads of delicate humming-birds, wonderful animated gems

of color, remarkable in Brazil for their metallic hues. Such brilliancy

of lustre, glancing in the warm sunlight, is fascinating to behold. The

Spaniards call these delicate little creatures "winged flowers," and the

Portuguese, "flower-kissers." A lady resident of Rio told the author of

the vain attempt of a patient German scientist to domesticate a few

specimens of these birds. He commenced by taking them from the nest soon

after they were hatched, at various periods of their growth, and even

after they had learned to fly, but although infinite care was taken to

supply their usual food, and also not to confine them too closely, the

naturalist was fain to acknowledge the impossibility of accomplishing

his object, though the experiment extended over a period of two years.

The ceaseless activity of this frail little bird renders any

circumscribing of its liberty fatal to existence.

Delicate, innocent, and apparently harmless as butterflies, these

diminutive creatures are often very pugnacious, and when two males

engage in a contest with each other, which is not seldom the case, one

or the other often loses his life. If disturbed during the period of

incubation, they will attack large birds and even human beings,

directing their long, needle-like bills at the offender's eyes. Our

informant told us the particulars of a man who, under such

circumstances, came very near losing both of these organs. Scientists

have succeeded in preserving over two hundred different specimens of

this little feathered beauty, representing that number of species

indigenous to Brazil. Some of these are only five or six times as large

as a humble-bee. The artificial flowers already referred to as being for

sale in the shops of Rio depend almost entirely upon the humming-bird

for their delicate beauty; no other feathered creature affords such

marvelous colors and exquisitely fine material for the purpose. The best

specimens of this work are necessarily expensive, requiring, besides a

truly artistic taste and eye, skill of execution, infinite patience, and

much time, to produce them. We saw a choice design of this sort,

measuring about fifteen by twenty inches, framed under a glass, the

design being a bouquet of natural flowers, for which the asking price

was five hundred dollars; four hundred and fifty had been refused. The

feathers were almost entirely from the throat and breast of

humming-birds, arranged by a woman who had made this work the occupation

of her life from girlhood. We learned that such a piece of artistic

effect represented nearly a year's labor!

One also finds in the Rio shops flower-pieces ingeniously formed from

the scales of high-colored fishes, as well as from the wings and bodies

of native insects characterized by brilliant colors, but these of course

will not compare in delicacy and beauty with the products of the

feathers. The Brazilian beetle is prepared in a myriad of ornamental

forms and in many combinations, sometimes mingled with feathers. In the

Rua dos Ourives there are two or three shops where a great variety of

such objects is offered for sale. These stores have also many choice

native stones of great beauty, including the true Brazilian topaz, for

which there is a growing and appreciative demand.

The idea prevails that the climate of Rio is like some parts of Africa,

suffocatingly hot all the time, but this is not correct. The American

consul told the author that he had suffered more from the cold than from

the heat in the environs of the city, where his residence is in a rather

elevated district. He declared that the temperature, even in town, was

rarely so extreme as is often found in the cities of the United States.

He believes that the yellow fever might be effectually banished from Rio

by the adoption of strict quarantine and effective sanitary measures in

the city proper. As we have already intimated, consumption prevails here

to an alarming extent. This is doubtless owing to the peculiar dampness

of the atmosphere. We found that statistics show one half as many deaths

from consumption as from yellow fever, taking the aggregate of five

years. "The one disease comes annually in the heat of summer only, as a

rule," said our informant, "while the other prevails more or less all

the year round, year in and year out." During the two weeks which the

author stopped at Rio, forty and fifty fatal cases of yellow fever a day

were recorded, and doubtless more than that number actually fell victims

to its ravages, as only those who died in the several hospitals were

enumerated. We were in the city in June, one of the winter months in

this latitude. Heretofore the fever has nearly always disappeared, as an

epidemic, by the first or middle of May, even in years when it has been

most prevalent and fatal. Notwithstanding the charm of novelty which so

absorbs the stranger, we are free to confess there was a lurking dread

of the subtle enemy which proved so swift and fatal all about us. Fifty

deaths daily by yellow fever in a population exceeding half a million

only served to show that it still lingered in a sporadic form where the

seeds are perhaps never entirely exterminated. It most readily attacks

strangers and the unacclimated, but no class is exempt. The indigent,

careless, drunken portion of the population are no more liable, we were

informed, to contract the disease than others of better habits. This

outrages all preconceived notions of diseases of this character, but we

were assured by good authority that it was really so. The day we left

Rio, the English Bishop, a most estimable man, who was universally

respected and beloved, died of the fell disease.

The summer season begins in October and lasts until April, and is better

known here as the wet season, the rain falling with great regularity

nearly every afternoon, and at about the same time. Usually an hour of

liberal downpour is experienced, then it promptly clears up and becomes

bright and pleasant. The warmest month is February. The winter months

are May, June, July, and August; this is the dry season, during which

very little rain falls. The climate appears to be particularly injurious

to persons who are troubled with a torpid liver. Elephantiasis is

indigenous, but it is not very common; the few cases seen were upon the

streets, and were those of negroes who exposed their diseased limbs to

excite public pity, making the affliction an excuse for systematic

begging. A score of such unfortunates were seen daily in and about

Palace Square, and one or two regularly posted themselves before the

Globe Restaurant, which is the Maison Doree of Rio Janeiro.

The well-to-do merchants do not think of living in town, but select some

pleasant spot in the environs, where they erect picturesque homes, often

extremely attractive to the eye architecturally, and surrounded by

lovely gardens, containing both native and exotic plants and trees. The

contrast between commercial and rural Rio is something very striking.

One presents all the grossness and belittling aspect of money-getting,

the other the graces, liberality, and ennobling appearance of culture

and refinement. Of all the trees in these attractive environs, the palm,

in its great variety, challenges one's admiration most. We mention it

frequently, for it was our constant delight. At every turn one comes

upon it, in its several species,--the cocoa-palm, the palmetto, the

cabbage, the assai-palm, the fanshaped-palm, and scores of other

varieties. The hand and taste of woman are seen in these gardens of the

environs. Flowers are selected and arranged as only feminine taste could

suggest, while the broad piazzas are simply floral bowers and gardens of

placid delights.

The province round about Rio is beautified and rendered profitable by

the many large coffee plantations, particularly attractive when the

well-trimmed bushes are seen in full bearing, bending under the weight

of red berries. Orange orchards abound, the branches of the trees heavy

with the rich golden fruit; yet as an orange-producing section, Florida,

in our own country, is fully its equal. The fruit of the southern part

of the United States is much better and more intelligently cultivated,

and is larger and fairer, than the fruit of this region. We except

Bahia, however, in this remark; that is the very paradise of oranges.

Besides the abundance of fruits, Flora reigns in Brazil, and near to Rio

bignonias, passifloras, variegated honeysuckles, morning-glories,

magnolias, and orchids mingle with the dark green mango trees and the

delicate light green mimosas which meet the eye everywhere. It appears

that the several species of flowers have their special season for

blooming, when they are at their best, so that a large variety is always

seen in bloom at all times in the year. We must confess to having felt

half lost without the "Queen of Flowers," our grand favorite; but as to

roses, it was found that the ever present ants maintained a fixed

hostility to them, rendering it particularly difficult to rear them in

this country. In all of the many lands we have visited, the author has

never seen such superbly developed roses as are produced in and about

the city of Boston. There is some quality in the climate of New England,

added to the genius of her famous florists, especially adapted to their

perfection.

The broad leafed umbrella-tree--_chapeo do sul_--is often seen in this

neighborhood cultivated as a shade tree, both in town and country, while

the thick clustering bamboo, so often referred to, adds its unique

beauty to the environs in all directions. The banana and plantain, both

cultivated and wild, thrive hereabouts, and form an important adjunct to

the food supply of all classes. The banana is cultivated by offsets, and

is of rapid growth, coming to maturity and bearing fruit a few months

after it is planted. Brazil seems to be well called the home of fruits

and flowers.

Has the reader ever chanced to hear of "Portuguese Joe," of Rio Janeiro?

He is a man as well known in the capital of Brazil as the late emperor.

Ostensibly he is only a successful shipchandler, wholesale grocer,

purveyor--by appointment--to the American and British naval ships which

put into Rio, or which are stationed here; but over and above his

extensive commercial relations, we found him to be a Good Samaritan. He

is quite ready for legitimate business, and has realized a handsome

fortune by fair and honorable dealing. He charges a reasonable profit

upon the various supplies which he furnishes, but his goods are exactly

what he represents them to be, and he has the confidence of all who deal

with him. His establishment grew up from a small beginning, he having

come from Portugal to engage in business when only thirteen years of

age. To-day he is in the prime of life, and his store on the Paraca de

Dom Pedro II. is a city institution. The highest official, the

wealthiest bankers, and the most influential merchants are glad to shake

him cordially by the hand. Signor J. C. V. Mendes--the other title being

a trade _nom de plume_ of long standing--is a gentleman by nature, and a

true friend to all strangers who seek his counsels on arriving at Rio.

We fortunately became acquainted with Signor Mendes on the first day of

our landing, and are glad to speak of his ready courtesy and desire to

make all Americans at home who arrive in the capital of Brazil. It is no

particular recommendation, but it is a pleasure to say that, with his

calm, self-possessed manner, his brilliant black eyes and genial smile

lighting up his bronzed features, he is unquestionably the handsomest

man whom we chanced to meet in Rio Janeiro. Manly beauty is not an

imperative adjunct to excellence, but is still a very agreeable

accessory.

One naturally anticipates but will not find any social distinction as to

race in this city. Color opposes no obstacle to progress in educational

or official position. Pupils of the public schools meet on the same

footing and mingle promiscuously. There is nothing to prevent the

intelligent negro from becoming a judge or minister of state, or from

filling any high civil office, if he develops proper ability. Many

bureaus in the public offices are held by colored men, observably in the

custom house, and the race generally is regarded with far more respect

than with us in the United States.

Providence has liberally endowed the larger portion of Brazil with a

fertile soil, an unrivaled flora, and a delightful climate. For a

tropical country, it is remarkably temperate and salubrious. It has

mountain scenery excelling that of Switzerland, with fertile valleys

surpassing those of Italy, and myriads of rivers affording ample means

of transportation with natural and abundant irrigation. Unlike many of

her sister states, including those on the west coast of the continent,

she is exempt from earthquakes and the destruction caused by devouring

tidal waves. While so much of Mexico and thousands of miles of the

Pacific coast are scorched by drought, there are no districts of Brazil

exempt from regular and refreshing rains, the importance of which cannot

be overestimated. To crown all else, the splendid harbor of her capital

by its size, safety, and beauty invites the commerce of the world. It

would certainly seem, when we realize all of these special advantages,

that nature had intended so large and favored a portion of the globe to

ultimately be the home of a great, powerful, and prosperous nation.

That the material growth of Brazil is mainly in the right direction is

manifest to the most casual observer. The many lines of railways

penetrating the country in every province will by and by prove to be

effective means of development. Wherever the facilities are liberally

afforded, not only individuals, but ideas, are sure to travel, and

social and material improvement must follow. Civilization keeps pace

with the iron horse. When the street rails penetrated the canons of

Utah, polygamy was doomed. Material facts are stronger than arguments of

well-meaning moralists. The establishment of so many railroads through

the wilds of South America may not be a paying matter, it is not so at

this writing, but a great moral purpose, and that of true progress, will

be subserved by them. They will be the agents of enlightenment and

civilization to many wild tribes of Indians, at the same time opening

broad and favorable tracts of territory for settlement by emigrants from

the crowded and overstocked states of Europe.

On the homeward passage, when we visited Rio Janeiro for the second

time, it was found to be rife with politics; but like Joseph's coat, of

so many colors as to be confusing to a foreigner. It may reasonably be

doubted if the natives themselves clearly understood what they wanted.

The revolutionary element seemed very strong, and was led by men who had

nothing to lose by agitation, but everything to gain by a lawless

uprising. The most intelligent citizens predicted a popular revolution

of some sort in the near future, and their anticipation proved to be

correct. Revolution is chronic in South America.

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