CHAPTER IV.

Curious Ocean Experiences.--The Delicate

Nautilus.--Flying-Fish.--The Southern Cross.--Speaking a

Ship at Sea.--Scientific Navigation.--South America as a

Whole.--Fauna and Flora.--Natural Resources of a Wonderful

Land.--Rivers, Plains, and Mountain Ranges.--Aboriginal

Tribes.--Population.--Political Divisions.--Civil

Wars.--Weakness of South American States.

The sudden appearance of a school of flying-fish gliding swiftly through

the air for six or eight rods just above the rippling waves, and then

sinking from sight; the sportive escort of half a hundred slate-colored

porpoises, leaping high out of the water on either bow of the ship only

to plunge back again, describing graceful curves; the constant presence

of that sullen tiger of the ocean, the voracious, man-eating shark,

betrayed by its dorsal fin showing above the surface of the sea; the

sporting of mammoth whales, sending columns of water high in air from

their blowholes, and lashing the waves playfully with their broad-spread

tails, are events at sea too commonplace to comment upon in detail,

though they tend to while away the inevitable monotony of a long voyage.

Speaking of flying-fish, there is more in the flying capacity of this

little creature than is generally admitted, else why has it wings on the

forward part of its body, each measuring seven inches in length? If

designed only for fins, they are altogether out of proportion to the

rest of its body. They are manifestly intended for just the use to which

the creature puts them. One was brought to us by a seaman; how it got on

board we know not, but it measured eleven inches from the nose to the

tip of the tail fin, and was in shape and size very much like a small

mackerel. After leaving Barbadoes, we got into what sailors call the

flying-fish latitudes, where they appear constantly in their low, rapid

flight, sometimes singly, but oftener in small schools of a score or

more, creating flashes of silvery-blue lustre. The most careful

observation could detect no vibration of the long, extended fins; the

tiny fish sailed, as it were, upon the wind, the flight of the giant

albatross in miniature.

One afternoon, when the sea was scarcely dimpled by the soft trade wind,

we came suddenly upon myriads of that little fairy of the ocean, the

gossamer nautilus, with its Greek galleon shape, and as frail,

apparently, as a spider's web. What a gondola it would make for Queen

Mab! How delicate and transparent it is, while radiating prismatic

colors! A touch might dismember it, yet what a daring navigator,

floating confidently upon the sea where the depth is a thousand fathoms,

liable at any moment to be changed into raging billows by an angry

storm! How minute the vitality of this graceful atom, a creature whose

existence is perhaps for only a single day; yet how grand and limitless

the system of life and creation of which it is so humble a

representative! Sailors call these frail marine creatures Portuguese

men-of-war. Possessing some singular facility for doing so, if they are

disturbed, they quickly furl their sails and sink below the surface of

the buoyant waves into deep water, the home of the octopus, the squid,

and the voracious shark. Did they, one is led to query, navigate these

seas after this fashion before the Northmen came across the ocean, and

before Columbus landed at San Salvador? At night the glory of the

southern hemisphere, as revealed in new constellations and brighter

stars brought into view, was observed with keenest

interest,--"Everlasting Night, with her star diadems, with her silence,

and her verities." The phosphorescence of the sea, with its

scintillations of brilliant light, its ripples of liquid fire, the crest

of each wave a flaming cascade, was a charming phenomenon one never

tired of watching. If it be the combination of millions and billions of

animalculae which thus illumines the waters, then these infinitesimal

creatures are the fireflies of the ocean, as the cucuios, that fairy

torch-bearer, is of the land. Gliding on the magic mirror of the South

Atlantic, in which the combined glory of the sky was reflected with

singular clearness, it seemed as though we were sailing over a starry

world below.

While observing the moon in its beautiful series of changes, lighting

our way by its chaste effulgence night after night, it was difficult to

realize that it shines entirely by the light which it borrows from the

sun; but it was easy to believe the simpler fact, that of all the

countless hosts of the celestial bodies, she is our nearest neighbor.

"An eighteen-foot telescope reveals to the human eye over forty million

stars," said Captain Baker, as we stood together gazing at the luminous

heavens. "And if we entertain the generally accepted idea," he

continued, "we must believe that each one of that enormous aggregate of

stars is the centre of a solar system similar to our own." The known

facts relating to the stars, like stellar distances, are almost

incomprehensible.

One cannot but realize that there is always a certain amount of

sentiment wasted on the constellation known as the Southern Cross by

passengers bound to the lands and seas over which it hangs. Orion or the

Pleiades, either of them, is infinitely superior in point of brilliancy,

symmetry, and individuality. A lively imagination is necessary to endow

this irregular cluster of stars with any real resemblance to the

Christian emblem for which it is named. It serves the navigator in the

southern hemisphere, in part, the same purpose which the north star does

in our portion of the globe, and there our own respect for it as a

constellation ends. Much poetic talent has been expended for ages to

idealize the Southern Cross, which is, alas! no cross at all. We have

seen a person unfamiliar with the locality of this constellation strive

long and patiently, but in vain, to find it. It should be remembered

that two prominent stars in Centaurus point directly to it. The one

furthest from the so called cross is held to be the fixed star nearest

to the earth, but its distance from us is twenty thousand times farther

than that of the sun.

We have never yet met a person, looking upon this cluster of the heavens

for the first time, who did not frankly express his disappointment.

Anticipation and fruition are oftenest at antipodes.

The graceful marine birds which follow the ship, day after day, darting

hither and thither with arrowy swiftness, lured by the occasional refuse

thrown from on board, would be seriously missed were they to leave us.

Watching their aerial movements and untiring power of wing, while

listening to their sharp complaining cries, is a source of constant

amusement. Even rough weather and a raging sea, if not accompanied by

too serious a storm, is sometimes welcome, serving to awaken the ship

from its dull propriety, and to put officers, crew, and passengers upon

their mettle. To speak a strange vessel at sea is always interesting. If

it is a steamer, a long, black wake of smoke hanging among the clouds at

the horizon betrays her proximity long before the hull is sighted. All

eyes are on the watch until she comes clearly within the line of vision,

gradually increasing in size and distinctness of outline, until

presently the spars and rigging are minutely delineated. Then

speculation is rife as to whence she comes and where she is going. By

and by the two ships approach so near that signal flags can be read, and

the captains talk with each other, exchanging names, whither bound, and

so on. Then each commander dips his flag in compliment to the other, and

the ships rapidly separate. All of this is commonplace enough, but

serves to while away an hour, and insures a report of our progress and

safety at the date of meeting, when the stranger reaches his port of

destination.

We have spoken of the pleasure experienced at sea in watching

intelligently the various phases of the moon. The subject is a prolific

one; a whole chapter might be written upon it.

It is perhaps hardly realized by the average landsman, and indeed by few

who constantly cross the ocean, with their thoughts and interests

absorbed by the many attractive novelties of the ocean, how important a

part this great luminary plays in the navigation of a ship. It is to the

intelligent and observant mariner the never-failing watch of the sky,

the stars performing the part of hands to designate the proper figure

upon the dial. If there is occasion to doubt the correctness of his

chronometer, the captain of the ship can verify its figures or correct

them by this planet. Every minute that the chronometer is wrong,

assuming that it be so, may put him fifteen miles out of his reckoning,

which, under some circumstances, might prove to be a fatal error, even

leading to the loss of his ship and all on board. To find his precise

location upon the ocean, the navigator requires both Greenwich time and

local meridian time, the latter obtained by the sun on shipboard,

exactly at midday. To get Greenwich time by lunar observation, the

captain, for example, finds that the moon is three degrees from the star

Regulus. By referring to his nautical almanac he sees recorded there the

Greenwich time at which the moon was three degrees from that particular

star. He then compares his chronometer with these figures, and either

confirms or corrects its indication. It is interesting to the traveler

to observe and understand these important resources, which science has

brought to bear in perfecting his safety on the ocean, promoting the

interests of commerce, and in aid of correct navigation. The experienced

captain of a ship now lays his course as surely by compass, after

satisfying himself by these various means of his exact position, as

though the point of his destination was straight before him all the

while, and visible from the pilot house.

How indescribable is the grandeur of these serene nights on the ocean,

fanned by the somnolent trade winds; a little lonely, perhaps, but so

blessed with the hallowed benediction of the moonlight, so gorgeously

decorated by the glittering images of the studded heavens, so sweet and

pure and fragrant is the breath of the sleeping wind! If one listens

intently, there seems to come to the senses a whispering of the waves,

as though the sea in confidence would tell its secrets to a willing ear.

The ship heads almost due south after leaving Barbadoes, when her

destination is, as in our case, Para, twelve hundred miles away. On this

course we encounter the equatorial current, which runs northward at a

rate of two miles in an hour, and at some points reaches a much higher

rate of speed.

As eternal vigilance is the price of liberty, so eternal scrubbing is

the price of cleanliness on shipboard. The deck hands are at it from

five o'clock in the morning until sunset. Our good ship looks as if she

had just come out of dock. Last night's gale, which in its angry turmoil

tossed us about so recklessly, covered her with a saline, sticky

deposit; but with the rising of the sun all this disappears as if by

magic. The many brass mountings shine with dazzling lustre, and the

white paint contrasts with the well-tarred cordage which forms the

standing rigging.

While the ship pursues her course through the far-reaching ocean, let us

sketch in outline the general characteristics of South America, whither

we are bound.

It is a country containing twice the area, though not quite one half the

amount of population, of the United States, a land which, though now

presenting nearly all phases of civilization, was four centuries ago

mostly inhabited by nomadic tribes of savages, who knew nothing of the

horse, the ox, or the sheep, which to-day form so great and important a

source of its wealth, and where wheat, its prevailing staple, was also

unknown. It is a land overflowing with native riches, which possesses an

unlimited capacity of production, and whose large and increasing

population requires just such domestic supplies as we of the north can

profitably furnish. The important treaty of reciprocity, so lately

arranged between the giant province of Brazil--or rather we should say

the Republic of Brazil--and our own country, is already developing new

and increasing channels of trade for our shippers and producers of the

great staples, as well as throwing open to us a new nation of consumers

for our special articles of manufacture. Facts speak louder than words.

On the voyage in which the author sailed in the Vigilancia, she took

over twenty thousand barrels of flour to Brazil from the United States,

and would have taken more had her capacity admitted. Every foot of space

on board was engaged for the return voyage, twelve thousand bags of

coffee being shipped from Rio Janeiro alone, besides nearly as large a

consignment of coffee from Santos, in the same republic. The great

mutual benefit which must accrue from this friendly compact with an

enterprising foreign country can hardly be overestimated. These

considerations lead to a community of interests, which will grow by

every reasonable means of familiarizing the people of the two countries

with each other. Hence the possible and practical value of such a work

as the one in hand.

By briefly consulting one of the many cheap and excellent maps of the

western hemisphere, the patient reader will be enabled to follow the

route taken by the author with increased interest and a clearer

understanding.

It is surprising, in conversing with otherwise intelligent and

well-informed people, to find how few there are, comparatively speaking,

who have any fixed and clear idea relative to so large a portion of the

habitable globe as South America. The average individual seems to know

less of the gigantic river Amazon than he does of the mysterious Nile,

and is less familiar with that grand, far-reaching water-way, the Plate,

than he is with the sacred Ganges; yet one can ride from Buenos Ayres in

the Argentine Republic, across the wild pampas, to the base of the Andes

in a Pullman palace car. There is no part of the globe concerning which

so little is written, and no other portion which is not more sought by

travelers; in short, it is less known to the average North American than

New Zealand or Australia.

The vast peninsula which we call South America is connected with our own

part of the continent by the Isthmus of Panama and the territory

designated as Central America. Its configuration is triangular, and

exhibits in many respects a strong similarity to the continents of

Africa and Australia, if the latter gigantic island may be called a

continent. It extends north and south nearly five thousand miles, or

from latitude 12 deg. 30' north to Cape Horn in latitude 55 deg. 59' south. Its

greatest width from east to west is a little over three thousand miles,

and its area, according to the best authorities, is nearly seven million

square miles. Three fourths of this country lie in the torrid zone,

though as a whole it has every variety of climate, from equatorial heat

to the biting frosts of alpine peaks. Its widespread surface consists

principally of three immense plains, watered respectively by the Amazon,

Plate, and Orinoco rivers. This spacious country has a coast line of

over sixteen thousand miles on the two great oceans, with comparatively

few indentures, headlands, or bays, though at the extreme south it

consists of a maze of countless small islands, capes, and promontories,

of which Cape Horn forms the outermost point.

The Cordillera of the Andes extends through the whole length of this

giant peninsula, from the Strait of Magellan to the Isthmus of Panama, a

distance of forty-five hundred miles, forming one of the most remarkable

physical features of the globe, and presenting the highest mountains on

its surface, except those of the snowy Himalayas which separate India

from Thibet. The principal range of the Andes runs nearly parallel with

the Pacific coast, at an average distance of about one hundred miles

from it, and contains several active volcanoes. If we were to believe a

late school geography, published in London, Cotopaxi, one famous peak of

this Andean range, throws up flames three thousand feet above the brink

of its crater, which is eighteen thousand feet above tide water; but to

be on the safe side, let us reduce these extraordinary figures at least

one half, as regards the eruptive power of Cotopaxi. This mountain

chain, near the border between Chili and Peru, divides into two

branches, the principal one still called the Cordillera of the Andes,

and the other, nearer to the ocean, the Cordillera de la Costa. Between

these ranges, about three thousand feet above the sea, is a vast

table-land with an area larger than that of France.

It will be observed that we are dealing with a country which, like our

own, is one of magnificent distances. It is difficult for the nations of

the old world, where the population is hived together in such

circumscribed space, to realize the geographical extent of the American

continent. When informed that it required six days and nights, at

express speed upon well-equipped railroads, to cross the United States

from ocean to ocean, a certain editor in London doubted the statement.

Outside of Her Majesty's dominions, the average Englishman has only

superficial ideas of geography. The frequent blunders of some British

newspapers in these matters are simply ridiculous.

It should be understood that South America is a land of plains as well

as of lofty mountains, having the _llanos_ of the Orinoco region, the

_selvas_ of the Amazon, and the _pampas_ of the Argentine Republic. The

llanos are composed of a region about as large as the New England

States, so level that the motion of the rivers can hardly be discerned.

The selvas are for the most part vast unbroken forests, in which giant

trees, thick undergrowth, and entwining creepers combine to form a

nearly impenetrable region. The pampas lie between the Andes and the

Atlantic Ocean, stretching southward from northern Brazil to southern

Patagonia, affording grass sufficient to feed innumerable herds of wild

cattle, but at the extreme south the country sinks into half overflowed

marshes and lagoons, resembling the glades and savannahs of Florida.

The largest river in the world, namely, the Amazon, rises in the

Peruvian Andes, within sixty miles of the Pacific Ocean, and flows

thousands of miles in a general east-northeast direction, finally

emptying into the Atlantic Ocean. This unequaled river course is

navigable for over two thousand miles from its mouth, which is situated

on the equatorial line, where its outflow is partially impeded by the

island of Marajo, a nearly round formation, one hundred and fifty miles

or thereabouts in diameter. This remarkable island divides the river's

outlet into two passages, the largest of which is a hundred and fifty

miles in width, forming an estuary of extraordinary dimensions. The

Amazon has twelve tributaries, each one of which is a thousand miles in

length, not to count its hundreds of smaller ones, while the main stream

affords water communication from the Atlantic Ocean to near the

foothills of the Andes.

We are simply stating a series of condensed geographical facts, from

which the intelligent reader can form his own deductions as regards the

undeveloped possibilities of this great southland.

Our own mammoth river, the Mississippi, is a comparatively shallow

stream, with a shifting channel and dangerous sandbanks, which impede

navigation throughout the most of its course; while the Amazon shows an

average depth of over one hundred feet for the first thousand miles of

its flow from the Atlantic, forming inland seas in many places, so

spacious that the opposite banks are not within sight of each other. It

is computed by good authority that this river, with its numerous

affluents, forms a system of navigable water twenty-four thousand miles

in length! There are comparatively few towns or settlements of any

importance on the banks of the Amazon, which flows mostly through a

dense, unpeopled evergreen forest, not absolutely without human beings,

but for very long distances nearly so. Wild animals, anacondas and other

reptiles, together with many varieties of birds and numerous tribes of

monkeys, make up the animal life. Now and again a settlement of European

colonists is found, or a rude Indian village is seen near the banks, but

they are few and far between. There are occasional regions of low,

marshy ground, which are malarious at certain seasons, but the average

country is salubrious, and capable of supporting a population of

millions.

This is only one of the large rivers of South America; there are many

others of grand proportions. The Plate comes next to it in magnitude,

having a length of two thousand miles, and being navigable for one half

the distance from its mouth at all seasons. It is over sixty miles wide

at Montevideo, and is therefore the widest known river. Like the great

stream already described, it traverses a country remarkable for the

fertility of its soil, but very thinly settled. The Plate carries to the

ocean four fifths as much, in volume of water, as does the mighty

Amazon, the watershed drained by it exceeding a million and a half

square miles. One can only conceive of the true magnitude of such

figures when applied to the land by comparing the number of square miles

contained in any one European nation, or any dozen of our own States.

Juan Diaz de Solis discovered the estuary of the Plate in 1508, and

believed it at that time to be a gulf, but on a second voyage from

Europe, in 1516, he ascended the river a considerable distance, and

called it Mar Dulce, on account of the character of the waters.

Unfortunately, this intelligent discoverer was killed by Indian arrows

on attempting to land at a certain point. For a considerable period the

river was called after him, and we think should have continued to be so,

but its name was changed to the Plate on account of the conspicuous

silver ornaments worn in great profusion by the natives, which they

freely exchanged for European gewgaws.

Though nearly four hundred years have passed since its discovery, a

large portion of the country still remains comparatively unexplored,

much of it being a wilderness sparsely inhabited by Indians, many of

whom are without a vestige of civilization. We know as little of

portions of the continent as we do of Central Africa, yet there is no

section of the globe which suggests a greater degree of physical

interest, or which would respond more readily and profitably to

intelligent effort at development. When the Spaniards first came to

South America, it was only in Peru, the land of the Incas, that they

found natives who had made any substantial progress in civilization. The

earliest history extant relating to this region of the globe is that of

the Incas, a warlike race of sun-worshipers, who possessed enormous

treasures of gold and silver, and who erected magnificent temples

enriched with the precious metals. It was the almost fabulous wealth of

the Incas that led to their destruction, tempting the cupidity of the

avaricious Spaniards, and causing them to institute a system of cruelty,

oppression, robbery, and bloodshed which finally obliterated an entire

people from the face of the globe. The empire of the Incas extended from

Quito, in Ecuador (on the equator), to the river Monte in Chili, and

eastward to the Andes. The romantic career of Pizarro and Cortez is

familiar to us all. There are few palliating circumstances connected

with the advent of the Spaniards, either here, in the West Indies, or in

Mexico. The actual motive which prompted their invasion of this foreign

soil was to search for mineral treasures, though policy led them to

cover their bloodthirsty deeds with a pretense of religious zeal. Their

first acts were reckless, cruel, and sanguinary, followed by a

systematic oppression of the native races which was an outrage upon

humanity. The world at large profited little by the extortion and golden

harvest reaped by Spain, to realize which she adopted a policy of

extermination, both in Peru and in Mexico; but let it be remembered that

her own national ruin was brought about with poetical justice by the

very excess of her ill-gotten, blood-stained treasures. The Spanish

historians tell us, as an evidence of the persistent bravery of their

ancestors, that it took them eight hundred years of constant warfare to

wrest Spain from her Moorish conquerors. It is for us to remind them how

brief has been the continuance of their glory, how rapid their decline

from splendid continental and colonial possessions to their present

condition, that of the weakest and most insignificant power in Europe.

There are localities which have been visited by adventurous explorers,

especially in Chili and Peru, where ruins have been found, and various

monuments of antiquity examined, of vast interest to archaeologists, but

of which scarcely more than their mere existence is recorded. Some of

these ruins are believed to antedate by centuries the period of the

Incas, and are supposed to be the remains of tribes which, judging from

their pottery and other domestic utensils, were possibly of Asiatic

origin. Comparatively few travelers have visited Lake Titicaca, in the

Peruvian Andes, with its sacred islands and mysterious ruins, from

whence the Incas dated their mythical origin. The substantial remains of

some grand temples are still to be seen on the islands near the borders

of the lake, the decaying masonry decked here and there with a wild

growth of hardy cactus. This remarkable body of water, Lake Titicaca, in

the mountain range of Peru, lies more than twelve thousand feet above

the level of the Pacific; yet it never freezes, and its average depth is

given as six hundred feet, representing an immense body of water. It

covers an area of four thousand square miles, which is about four fifths

as large as our own Lake Ontario, the average depth being about the

same. Titicaca is the largest lake in the world occupying so elevated a

site.

The population of South America is mostly to be found on the coast, and

is thought to be about thirty-five millions, though, all things

considered, we are disposed to believe this an overestimate. There are

tribes far inland who are not brought in contact with civilization at

all, and whose numbers are not known. The magnitude and density of the

forests are remarkable; they cover, it is intelligently stated, nearly

two thirds of the country. The vegetation, in its various forms, is rich

beyond comparison. Professor Agassiz, who explored the valley of the

Amazon under the most favorable auspices, tells us that he found within

an area of half a mile square over one hundred species of trees, among

which were nearly all of the choicest cabinet and dye woods known to the

tropics, besides others suitable for shipbuilding. Some of these trees

are remarkable for their gigantic size, others for their beauty of form,

and still others are valuable for their gums and resins. Of the latter,

the india-rubber tree is the most prolific and important known to

commerce. From Brazil comes four fifths of the world's supply of the raw

material of rubber.

The great fertility of the soil generally would seem to militate against

the true progress of the people of South America, absolutely

discouraging, rather than stimulating national industry. One cannot but

contrast the state of affairs in this respect with that of North

America, where the soil is so much less productive, and where the

climate is so universally rigorous. The deduction is inevitable that, to

find man at his best, we must observe him where his skill, energy, and

perseverance are all required to achieve a livelihood, and not where

exuberant nature is over-indulgent, over-productive. The coast, the

valleys, and indeed the main portion of South America are tropical, but

a considerable section of the country is so elevated that its climate is

that of perpetual spring, resembling the great Mexican plateau, both

physically and as regards temperature. The population is largely of

Spanish descent, and that language is almost universally spoken, though

Portuguese is the current tongue in Brazil. These languages are so

similar, in fact, that the people of the two nations can easily

understand each other. It is said to be true that, in the wild regions

of the country, there are tribes of Indians found to-day living close to

each other, separated by no physical barriers, who differ materially in

language, physiognomy, manners, and customs, having absolutely nothing

in common but their brown or copper colored skins. Furthermore, these

tribes live most frequently in deadly feuds with each other. That

cannibalism is still practiced among these interior tribes is positively

believed, especially among some of the tribes of the extreme south, that

is, among the Patagonians and the wild, nomadic race of Terra del Fuego.

These two tribes, on opposite sides of the Strait of Magellan, are quite

different from each other in nearly every respect, especially in size,

nor will they attempt to hold friendly intercourse of any sort with each

other.

There are certain domestic animals which are believed to be improved by

crossing them with others of a different type, but this does not seem to

apply, very often, advantageously to different races of human beings. It

is plain enough in South America that the amalgamation of foreigners and

natives rapidly effaces the original better qualities of each, the

result being a mongrel, nondescript type, hard to analyze and hard to

improve. That keen observer, Professor Agassiz, especially noticed this

during his year of scientific research in Brazil. This has also been the

author's experience, as illustrated in many lands, where strictly

different races, the one highly civilized, the other barbarian, have

unitedly produced children. It is a sort of amalgamation which nature

does not favor, recording her objections in an unmistakable manner. It

is the flow of European emigration towards these southern republics

which will infuse new life and progress among them. The aboriginal race

is slowly receding, and fading out, as was the case in Australia, in New

Zealand, and in the instance of our western Indians. A new people will

eventually possess the land, composed of the several European

nationalities, who are already the virtual masters of South America so

far as regards numbers, intelligence, and possession.

Since these notes were written, the Argentine government has sold to

Baron Hirsch three thousand square leagues of land in the province of

Chaco, for the formation of a Jewish colony. Agents are already at work,

aided by competent engineers and practical individuals, in preparing for

the early reception of the new occupants of the country. The first

contingent, of about one thousand Jews, have already arrived and are

becoming domesticated. Argentina wants men perhaps more than money;

indeed, one will make the other. A part of Baron Hirsch's scheme is to

lend these people money, to be repaid in small installments extending

over a considerable period. For this extensive territory the Baron paid

one million three hundred thousand dollars in gold, thus making himself

the owner of the largest connected area of land in the world possessed

by a single individual. It exceeds that of the kingdom of Montenegro.

As to the zooelogy of this part of the continent, it is different from

that of Europe, Africa, Asia, and North America. The number of dangerous

beasts of prey is quite limited. There is nothing here to answer to the

African lion, the Asiatic tiger, the elephant of Ceylon, or the grisly

bear of Alaska. The jaguar is perhaps the most formidable animal, and

resembles the leopard. There are also the cougar, tiger-cat, black bear,

hyena, wolf, and ocelot. The llama, alpaca, and vicuna are peculiar to

this country. The monkey tribe exceeds all others in variety and number.

There are said to be nearly two hundred species of them in South

America, each distinctly marked, and varying from each other, in size,

from twelve pounds to less than two. The smallest of the little

marmosets weigh less than a pound and a half each, and are the most

intelligent animal of their size known to man. There are also the deer,

tapir, armadillo, anteater, and a few other minor animals. The pampas

swarm with wild cattle and horses, descended from animals originally

brought from Europe. In the low, marshy grounds the boa-constrictor and

other reptiles abound. Eagles, vultures, and parrots are found in a wild

state all over the country, while the rivers and the waters near the

coast are well filled with fish, crocodiles, and turtles. Scientists

have found over two thousand species of fish in the Amazon River alone.

The pure aboriginal race are copper colored, resembling the Mexicans in

character and appearance. Like most natives of equatorial regions, they

are indolent, ignorant, superstitious, sensuous, and by no means

warlike. Forced into the ranks and drilled by Europeans, they make

fairly good soldiers, and when well led will obey orders and fight.

There can be no _esprit de corps_ in soldiers thus organized; the men

neither know nor care what they fight for, their incentive in action

being first a natural instinct for brutality, and second the promise of

booty. In some parts of the country the half-breeds show themselves

skillful workmen in certain simple lines of manufacture, but the native

pure and simple will not work except to keep from starving.

The Spaniards conquered nearly all parts of South America except Brazil,

which was subject to Portugal until 1823, when it achieved its

independence. The Spanish colonies also revolted, one by one, until they

all became independent of the mother country. The history of these

republics, as in the instance of Mexico, has been both stormy and

sanguinary. Foreign and civil wars have reigned among them incessantly

for half a century and more.

The present political divisions are: Brazil, British Guiana, Dutch

Guiana, French Guiana, Ecuador, United States of Colombia, Venezuela,

Bolivia, Chili, Peru, Argentine Republic, Uruguay, and Paraguay. Brazil

is the most extensive of these states, and is thought to enjoy the

largest share of natural advantages, including in its area nearly one

half as many square miles as all the rest combined. Its seaboard at

Parahiba, and for hundreds of miles north and south of it, projects into

the Atlantic a thousand miles to the east of the direct line between its

northern and southern extremities. Besides her diamond and gold mines,

she possesses what is much more desirable, namely, valuable deposits of

iron, copper, silver, and other metals. We have before us statistics

which give the result of diamond mining in Brazil from 1740 to 1823,

when national independence was won, which show the aggregate for that

entire period to have been less than ten million dollars in value; while

that of the coffee alone, exported from Rio Janeiro in one year,

exceeded twenty million dollars, showing that, however dazzling the

precious stones may appear in the abstract, they are not even of

secondary consideration when compared with the agricultural products of

the country. The export of coffee has increased very much since the year

1851, which happens to be that from which we have quoted. It must also

be admitted that probably twice the amount of diamonds recorded were

actually found and enriched somebody, all which were duly reported,

having to pay a government royalty according to the pecuniary exigency

of those in authority.

The population of Brazil is between fourteen and fifteen million, and it

is thought to be more advanced in civilization than other parts of South

America, though in the light of our own experience we should place the

Argentine Republic first in this respect. Indeed, so far as a transient

observer may speak, we are inclined to place Argentina far and away in

advance of Brazil as regards everything calculated to invite the

would-be emigrant who is in search of a new home in a foreign land. Were

it not that intestine wars are of such frequent occurrence among these

states, and national bankruptcy so common, voluntary emigration would

tend towards South America in far larger numbers than it does now. The

revolutions are solely to promote personal aggrandizement; it is

individual interest, not principle, for which these people fight so

often. Unfortunately, every fresh outbreak throws the country back a

full decade as regards national progress. The late civil wars in Chili

and the Argentine Republic are illustrations in point. The first-named

section of South America has suddenly sunk from a condition of

remarkable pecuniary prosperity to one of actual poverty. Thousands of

valuable lives have been sacrificed, an immense amount of property has

been destroyed, her commerce crippled, and for the time being paralyzed.

Ten years of peace and reasonable prosperity could hardly restore Chili

to the position she was in twelve months ago. The country is to-day in a

terrible condition, while many of the best families mourn the death of a

father, a son, or both, whose lives have been sacrificed to the mad

ambition of a usurper. Numerous families, once rich, have now become

impoverished by the confiscation of their entire property. The Chilians

do not carry on warfare in European style, by organized armies; there is

a semblance only of such bodies. The fighting is mostly after the

fashion of free lances, guerrilla bands, and highwaymen. There seems to

be no sense of honor or chivalry among the common people, while the only

idea of the soldiery is to plunder and destroy.

The Peruvians whose cities were despoiled by Chili must have regarded

the recent cutting of each other's throats by the Chilian soldiery with

something like grim satisfaction.

The obvious weakness of the South American states lies in their bitter

rivalry towards each other, a condition which might be at once obviated

by their joining together to form one united nation. The instability

which characterizes their several governments in their present isolated

interests has passed into a byword. Divided into nine unimportant

states,--leaving out the three Guianas, which are dependent upon

European powers,--any one of them could be erased from the map and

absorbed by its stronger neighbor, or by a covetous foreign power. On

the contrary, by forming one grand republic, it would stand eighth in

the rank of nations as regards wealth, importance, and power, amply able

to take care of itself, and to maintain the integrity of its territory.

A community of interest would also be established between our government

and that of these South American provinces, which would be of immense

commercial and political importance to both nations.

To those who have visited the country, and who have carefully observed

the conditions, it is clear that this division of the continent will

never thrive and fully reap the benefit of its great natural advantages

until the independent republics assume the position of sovereign states,

subservient to a central power, a purpose which has already been so

successfully accomplished in Mexico.

While we have been considering the great southern continent as a whole,

our good ship, having crossed the equator, has been rapidly approaching

its northern shore. After entering the broad mouth of the Amazon and

ascending its course for many miles, we are now in sight of the thriving

metropolis of Para.

Equatorial America Descriptive of a Visit to St. Thomas, Martinique, Barbadoes, and the Principal Capitals of South America · 第 4 / 17 章