beare roomer with Flamborow head, where we came to an anker, and there
remained vntil the seuenteenth day. Then the winde came faire, and we
weyed, and set our course North and by East, and so continued the same with
a mery winde vntill the 21 at noone, at which time we tooke the sunne, and
had the latitude in sixty degrees. Then we shifted our course, and went
Northnortheast, and Northeast and by North, vntill the 25. day. [Sidenote:
Heilick Islands in 66 degrees 40 minutes.] Then we discouered certaine
Islands, called Heilick Islands, lying from vs Northeast, being in the
latitude of sixtie sixe degrees, 40 minutes. [Sidenote: Rost Islands.] Then
we went north and by West, because we would not come too nigh the land, and
running that course foure houres, we discouered, and had sight of Rost
Islands, ioining to the main land of Finmarke. Thus continuing our course
along the coast of Norway and Finmark, the 27 day we tooke the Sunne, being
as farre shot as Lofoot, and had the latitude in 69 degrees. And the same
day in the afternoone appeared ouer our heads a rainebow, like a
semicircle, with both ends vpwarde. [Sidenote: Malestrand a strange whirle
poole.] Note that there is between the said Rost Islands and Lofoot, a
whirle poole called Malestrand, [Footnote: Maelström.] which from halfe
ebbe vntill halfe flood, maketh such a terrible noise, that it shaketh the
ringes in the doores of the inhabitants houses of the sayd Islands tenne
miles off. Also if there commeth any Whale within the current of the same,
they make a pitifull crie. Moreouer, if great trees be caried into it by
force of streams, and after with the ebbe be cast out againe, the ends and
boughs of them haue bene so beaten, that they are like the stalkes of hempe
that is bruised. Note, that all the coaste of Finmarke is high mountaines
and hils, being couered all the yere with snow. And hard aboord the shoare
of this coast, there is 100 or 150 fadomes of water in depth. [Sidenote:
Zenam Island.] Thus proceeding and sailing forward, we fell with an Island
called Zenam, being in the latitude of 70 degrees. About this Island we saw
many Whales, very monstrous, about our ships, some, by estimation of 60
foot long: and being the ingendring time they roared and cried terriblie.
[Sidenote: Kettelwike Island.] From thence we fell with an Island, called
Kettelwicke.
This coast from Rost vnto Lofoot lieth North and south, and from Lofoot to
Zenam Northeast and southwest, and from Zenam to Kettelwike Eastnortheast
and Westsouthwest. [Sidenote: Inger sound.] From the said Kettelwike we
sailed East and by North 10 leagues, and fell with a land called Inger
sound, where we fished, being becalmed, and tooke great plenty of Cods.
[Sidenote: The North Cape.] Thus plying along the coast, we fell with a
Cape, called the North Cape, which is the Northermost land that wee passe
in our voyage to S. Nicholas, and is in the latitude of 71 degrees and ten
minutes, and is from Inger sound East, and to the Northwards 15 leagues.
And being at this North Cape the second day of Iuly, we had the sunne at
North 4 degrees aboue the Horizon. The third day wee came to Wardhouse,
hauing such mists that we could not see the land. [Sidenote: Wardhouse]
This Wardhouse is a Castle standing in an Island 2 miles from the maine of
Finland, subiect to the king of Denmarke, and the Easternmost land that he
hath. There are two other Islands neere adioining vnto that, whereon the
Castle of Wardhouse standeth. The inhabitants of those three Islands liue
onely by fishing, and make much, stockefish which they dry with frost:
their most feeding is fish; bread and drinke they haue none, but such as is
brought them from other places. [Sidenote: Cattell fed with fish.] They
haue small store of cattell, which are also fed with fish. From Wardhouse
we sailed Southsoutheast ten leagues, and fell with a Cape of land called
Kegor, [Footnote: Cape Njemetsky.] the Northermost part of the land of
Lappia. [Sidenote: The Monastery of Pechinchow.] And betweene Wardhouse,
and the said Cape is a great Bay, called Dommeshaff, [Footnote: Varanger
fjord.] in the South part whereof is a Monasterie of Monkes of the Russes
religion, called Pechinchow. Thus proceeding forward and sayling along the
coast of the said land of Lappia, winding Southeast, the fourth day through
great mists and darkenes we lost the company of the other three ships, and
met not with them againe, vntill the seuenth day, when we fell with a Cape
or head land called Swetinoz, [Footnote: Cape Swjatojnos.] which is the
entring into the Bay of S. Nicholas. At this Cape lieth a great stone, to
the which the barkes that passed thereby, were wont to make offrings of
butter, meale, and other victuals, thinking that vnlesse they did so, their
barkes or vessels should there perish, as it hath bene oftentimes seene:
and there it is very darke and mistie. [Sidenote: Arzina reca the riuer
where Hugh Willoughbie was frozen.] Note that the sixt day we passed by the
place where Sir Hugh Willoughbie, with all his company perished, which is
called Arzina reca, that to say, the riuer Arzina. [Footnote: Varzina.]
The land of Lappia is an high land, hauing snow lying on it commonly all
the yere. The people of the Countrey are halfe Gentiles: they liue in the
summer time neere the sea side, and vse to take fish, of the which they
make bread, and in the winter they remoue vp into the countrey into the
woods, where they vse hunting, and kill Deere, Beares, Woolues, Foxes, and
other beasts, with whose flesh they be nourished, [Sidenote: The Lappians
couered all sauing their eies.] and with their skinnes apparelled in such
strange fashion, that there is nothing seene of them bare but their eies.
They haue none other habitation, but onely in tents, remouing from place to
place according to the season of the yeere. They know no arte nor facultie,
but onely shooting, which they exercise dayly, as well men as women, and
kill such beasts as serue them for their foode. Thus proceeding along the
coast from Swetinoz aforesaid, the ninth day of Iuly wee came to Cape
Grace, [Footnote: Cape Krasnoj.] being in the latitude of 66 degrees and 45
minutes, and is at the entring in of the Bay of S. Nicholas. Aboord this
land there is 20 or 30 fadoms water, and sundry grounds good to anker in.
[Sidenote: The current at Cape Grace.] The current at this Cape runneth
Southwest and Northeast. From this Cape wee proceeded along vntill we came
to Crosse Island, which is seuen leagues from the sayd Cape Southwest: and
from this Island, wee set ouer to the other side of the Bay, and went
Southwest, and fell with an head land called Foxenose, which is from the
sayd Island 25 leagues. [Sidenote: The entering of the Bay of S. Nicholas
is seuen leagues broad at the least.] The entring of this Bay from Crosse
Island to the neerest land on the other side is seuen leagues ouer. From
Foxenose proceeding forward the twelfth day of the sayd moneth of Iuly, all
our foure ships arriued in safetie at the road of Saint Nicholas in the
land of Russia, where we ankered, and had sailed from London vnto the said
roade seuen hundred and fifty leagues. The Russian ambassadour and his
company with great ioy got to shore, and our ships here forthwith
discharged themselues: and being laden againe, and hauing a faire winde,
departed toward England the first of August. [Sidenote: August.] The third
of the sayd moneth I with other of my company came vnto the citie of
Colmogro, being an hundred verstes from the Bay of Saint Nicholas, and in
the latitude of 64 degrees 25 minutes. I taried at the said Colmogro vntill
the fifteenth day: and then I departed in a little boate vp the great riuer
of Dwina, which runneth very swiftly, [Sidenote: Pinego River.] and the
selfe same day passed by the mouth of a riuer called Pinego, leauing it on
our lefte hand fifteen verstes from Colmogro. On both sides of the mouth of
this riuer Pinego is high land, great rockes of Alablaster, great woods,
and Pineapple trees lying along within the ground, which by report haue
lien there since Noes flood. [Sidenote: The towne of Yemps.] And thus
proceeding forward the nineteenth day in the morning, I came into a town
called Yemps, an hundred verstes from Colmogro. All this way along they
make much tarre, pitch and ashes of Aspen trees. [Sidenote: Vstiug.] From
thence I came to a place called Vstiug, an ancient citie the last day of
August. At this citie meete two riuers: the one called Iug, and the other
Sucana, both which fall into the aforesaid riuer of Dwina. The riuer Iug
hath his spring in the land of the Tartars called Cheremizzi, ioining to
the countrey of Permia: and Succana hath his head from a lake not farre
from the citie of Vologda. Thus departing from Vstiug, and passing by the
riuer Succana, we came to a towne called Totma. About this place the water
is verie shallow, and stonie, and troublesome for Barkes and boats of that
countrey, which they call Nassades, and Dosneckes, to passe that way:
wherein marchandise are transported from the aforesayd Colmogro to the
citie of Vologhda. [Sidenote: The description of their Nassades.] These
vessels called Nassades, are very long builded, broade made, and close
aboue, flatte bottomed, and draw not aboue foure foote water; and will came
two hundred tunnes: they haue none iron appertaining to them but all of
timber, and when the winde serueth, they are made to sayle. Otherwise they
haue many men, some to hale and drawe by the neckes with long small ropes
made fast to the sayd boats, and some set with long poles. There are many
of these barks vpon the riuer of Dwina: And the most part of them belongeth
vnto the citie of Vologhda: for there dwell many marchants, and they
occupie the said boates with carying of salte from the sea side vnto the
sayd Vologhda. The twentieth of September I came vnto Vologhda, which is a
great citie, and the riuer passeth through the midst of the same. The
houses are builded with wood of Firre trees, ioyned one with another, and
round without: the houses are foure square without any iron or stone worke,
couered with birch barkes, and wood ouer the same: Their Churches are all
of wood, two for euery parish, one to be heated for Winter, and the other
for Summer.
On the toppes of their houses they laye much earth, for feare of burning:
for they are sore plagued with fire. This Vologhda is in 59 degrees, eleuen
minutes, and is from Colmogro, 1000 verstes.
All the way I neuer came in house, but lodged in the wildernesse, by the
riuers side, and caried prouision for the way. [Sidenote: Good counsell for
trauellers.] And he that will trauell those wayes, must carie with him an
hatchet, a tinder boxe, and a kettle, to make fire and seethe meate, when
he hath it: for there is small succour in those parts, vnlesse it be in
townes.
[Sidenote: December.] The first day of December, I departed from Vologhda
in poste in a sled, as the maner is in Winter. And the way to Moscua is as
followeth. From Vologda to Commelski, 27 verstes, so to Olmor 25 verstes,
so to Teloytske 20 verstes, so to Vre 30 verstes, so to Voshansko 30
versus, then to Yeraslaue 30 verstes, which standeth vpon the great riuer
Volga, so to Rostoue, 50 verstes, then to Rogarin 30 verstes, so to
Peraslaue 10 verstes, which is a great town, standing hard by a faire lake.
From thence to Dowbnay 30 verstes, so to Godoroke 30 verstes, so to Owchay
30 verstes, and last to the Mosco 25 verstes, where I arriued the sixt day
of December.
There are 14 postes called Yannes betweene Vologhda and Mosco, which are
accompted 500 verstes asunder.
The 10 day of December I was sent for to the Emperors Castle by the sayd
Emperour, and deliuered my letters vnto the Secretary, who talked with me
of diuers matters, by the commandement of the Emperour. And after that my
letters were translated, I was answered that I was welcome, and that the
Emperour would giue me that I desired.
The 25 day, being the day of the natiuitie, I came into the Emperours
presence, and kissed his hand, who sate aloft in a goodly chaire of estate,
hauing on his heade a crowne most richly decked, and a staffe of gold in
his hand, all apparelled with golde, and garnished with precious stones.
There sate distant from him about two yardes his brother, and next vnto him
a boy of twelue yeares of age, who was inheritor to the Emperor of Casan,
conquered by this Emperor 8 yeares past. Then sate his nobilitie round
about him, richly apparelled with gold and stone. And after I had done
obeisance to the Emperour, he with his own mouth calling me by my name,
bade me to dinner, and so I departed to my lodging till dinner time, which
was at sixe of the clocke, by candle light.
The Emperour dined in a fayre great hall, in the midst whereof was a pillar
foure square, very artificially made, about which were diuers tables set,
and at the vppermost part of the hall, sate the Emperour himselfe, and at
his table sate his brother, his Vncles sonne, the Metropolitane, the young
Emperour of Casan, and diuers of his noble men, all of one side. There were
diuers Ambassadors, and other strangers, as well Christians as heathens,
diuersly apparelled, to the number of 600 men, which dined in the sayd
hall, besides 2000 Tartars, men of warre, which were newly come to render
themselues to the Emperour, and were appointed to serue him in his wars
against the Lieflanders, but they dined in other hals. I was set at a litle
table, hauing no stranger with me, directly before the Emperors face. Being
thus set and placed, the Emperour sent me diuers bowles of wine, and meade,
and many dishes of meat from his own hand, which were brought me by a Duke,
and my table serued all in gold and siluer, and so likewise on other
tables, there were set bowles of gold, set with stone, worth by estimation
400 pounds sterling one cup, besides the plate which serued the tables.
There was also a cupbord of plate, most sumptuous and rich, which was not
vsed: among the which, was a piece of golde of two yardes long, wrought in
the toppe with towers, and dragons heads, also diuers barrels of gold and
siluer, with Castles on the bungs, richly and artificially made. The
Emperour and all the hall throughout was serued with Dukes: and when dinner
was ended, the Emperour called me by name, and gaue me drinke with his own
hand, and so I departed to my lodging.
Note, that when the Emperour drinketh, all the company stand vp, and at
euery time he drinketh or tasteth of a dish of meate he blesseth himselfe.
Many other things I sawe that day, not here noted.
The 4 of Ianuary, which was Twelftide with them, the Emperour, with his
brother and all his nobles, all most richly appareled with gold, pearles,
precious stones, and costly furres, with a crowne vpon his head, of the
Tartarian fashion, went to the Church in procession, with the Metropolitan,
and diuers bishops and priests. That day I was before the Emperour again in
Russe apparell, and the Emperour asked if that were not I, and his
Chancelor answered yea. Then he bad me to dinner: then came he out of the
church, and went with the procession vpon the riuer, being all frozen, and
there standing bare headed, with all his Nobles, there was a hole made in
the ice, and the Metropolitan hallowed the water with great solemnitie and
seruice, and did cast of the sayd water vpon the Emperors sonne and the
Nobility. That done, the people with great thronging filled pots of the
said water to carie home to their houses, and diuers children were throwen
in, and sicke people, and plucked out quickly againe, and diuers Tartars
christened: all which the Emperour beheld. Also there were brought the
Emperours best horses, to drink at the sayd hallowed water. All this being
ended, he returned to his palace againe, and went to dinner by candle
light, and sate in a woodden house, very fairely gilt. There dined in the
place, about 300 strangers, and I sate alone as I did before, directly
before the Emperour, and had my meat, bread and drinke sent me from the
Emperour.
The citie of Mosco is great, the houses for the most part of wood, and some
of stone, with windowes of yron, which serue for summer time. There are
many faire Churches of stone, but more of wood, which are made hot in the
winter time. The Emperors lodging is in a faire and large castle, walled
foure square of bricke, high, and thicke, situated vpon a hill, 2 miles
about, and the riuer on the Southwest side of it, and it hath 16 gates in
the walles, and as many bulwarks. [Footnote: The Kremlin Palace.] His
palace is separated from the rest of the Castle, by a long wall going north
and south, to the riuer side. In his palace are Churches, some of stone and
some of wood, with round towers fairely gilded. In the Church doores and
within the Churches are images of golde: the chiefe markets for all things,
are within the sayd Castle, and for sundry things sundry markets, and euery
science by it selfe. And in the winter there is a great market without the
castle, vpon the riuer being frozen, and there is sold corne, earthen pots,
tubs, sleds, &c. The castle is in circuit 2900 pases.
The coontrey is ful of marish ground, and plaine, in woods and riuers
abundant, but it bringeth forth good plenty of corne. This Emperour is of
great power: for he hath conquered much, as wel of the Lieflanders, Poles,
Lettoes, and Swethens, as also of the Tartars, and Gentiles, called
Samoeds, hauing thereby much inlarged his dominions. He keepeth his people
in great subiection: all matters passe his iudgement, be they neuer so
small. The law is sharpe for all offenders.
The Metropolitan dealeth in matters of religion, as himselfe listeth, whome
the Emperour greatly honoreth. They vse the ceremonies, and orders of the
Greeke Church. They worship many images painted on tables, and specially
the image of S. Nicholas. Their Priests be maried, but their wiues being
dead, they may not marie the second time, and so become Monkes, whereof
there are a great number in the land.
They haue foure Lents in the yeere, and the weeke before Shrofetide, they
call the Butter weeke, &c.
They haue many sortes of meats and drinkes, when they banket and delight in
eating of grosse meates, and stinking fishe. Before they drinke they vse to
blowe in the cup: their greatest friendship is in drinking: they are great
talkers and lyers, without any faith or trust in their words, flatterers
and dissemblers. The women be there very obedient to their husbands, and
are kept straightly from going abroad, but at some seasons.
At my being there, I heard of men and women that drunke away their
children, and all their goods at the Emperors tauerne, and not being able
to pay, hauing impauned himselfe, the Tauerner bringeth him out to the
highway, and beates him vpon the legges: then they that passe by, knowing
the cause, and hauing peraduenture compassion vpon him, giue the money, and
so he is ransomed.
In euery good towne there is a drunken Tauerne called a Cursemay, which the
Emperour sometime letteth out to farme, and sometimes bestoweth for a yeare
or two on some duke or gentleman, in recompense of his seruice: and for
that time he is Lord of all the towne, robbing and spoiling, and doing what
pleaseth him: and then he be growen rich, is taken by the Emperor, and sent
to the warres againe, where he shall spend all that which he hath gotten by
ill meanes: so that the Emperour in his warres is little charged, but all
the burden lieth vpon the poore people.
They vse sadles made of wood and sinewes, with the tree gilded with damaske
worke, and the seat couered with cloth sometimes of golde, and the rest
Saphian leather, well stitched. They vse little drummes at their sadle
bowes, by the sound whereof their horses vse to runne more swiftly.
The Russe is appareled in this manner: his vpper garment is of golde,
silke, or cloth, long, downe to the foot, and buttoned with great buttons
of siluer, or els laces of silke, set on with brooches, the sleeues thereof
very long, which he weareth on his arme, ruffed vp. Vnder that he hath
another long garment, buttoned with silke buttons, with a high coller
standing vp of some colour and that garment is made straight. Then his
shirt is very fine, and wrought with red silk, or some gold, with a coller
of pearle. Vnder his shirt he hath linnen breeches, vpon his legs, a paire
of hose without feete, and his bootes of red or yellow leather. On his head
hee weareth a white Colepecke, with buttons of siluer, gold, pearle, or
stone, and vnder it a black Foxe cap, turned vp very broad.
When he rideth on horsebacke to the warres, or any iourney, he hath a sword
of the Turkish fashion, and his bowe and arrowes of the same maner. In the
towne he weareth no weapon, but onely two or three paire of kniues, hauing
the hafts of the tooth of a fish, called the Morse.
In the Winter time, the people trauell with sleds, in towne and countrey,
the way being hard, and smooth with snow; the waters and riuers are all
frozen, and one horse with a sled, will draw a man vpon it 400 miles, in
three daies: but in the Summer time, the way is deepe with mire, and
trauelling is very ill.
The Russe, if he be a man of any abilitie, neuer goeth out of his house in
the winter, but vpon his sled, and in Summer vpon his horse: and in his
sled he sits vpon a carpet, or a white Beares skinne: the sled is drawen
with a horse well decked, with many Foxes and Woolues tailes at his necke,
and is conducted by a little boy vpon his backe: his seruants stand vpon
the taile of the sled &c.
* * * * *
The voyage, wherein Osep Napea the Moscouite Ambassadour returned home into
his countrey, with his entertainement at his arriuall, at Colmogro: and a
large description of the maners of the Countrey.
The twelfth of Maye, in the yeare of our Lorde 1557 there departed from
Grauesend, foure good shippes well appointed for Marchants, which were
presently bound into the Baye of S. Nicholas in Russia, with which shippes
was transported, or caried home, one Osep Gregoriwich Napea, who was sent
Messenger from the Emperour and great Duke of Moscouia. The foure ships
were these, whose names follow, viz.
The Primerose Admirall.
The Iohn Euangelist Viceadmirall.
The Anne and the Trinitie Attendants.
The 13 of Iuly, the foresayd foure shippes came to an anker in the Baye of
S. Nicholas, befor an Abbey, called the Abbey of S. Nicholas, whereas the
sayde Messenger, Osep Gregoriwich Napea went a shoare, and as many English
men as came to serue the Emperour remained with him at the Abbey for the
space of sixe daies, vntill he had gotten all his things a shoare, and
laden the same in the barkes, to goe vp the riuer Dwina, vnto Vologhda,
which is by water 1000 verstes, and euery verste is about three quarters of
an English mile.
[Sidenote: Presents vsed in Russia are all for the most part of victuals.]
The 20 of Iuly, we departed from S. Nicholas, and the 24 of the same, we
came to Colmogro, where we remained eight daies and the sayd Messenger was
there of all his acquaintance welcommed home, and had presents innumerable
sent vnto him, but it was nothing but meate, and drinke. Some sent white
bread, some rie bread, and some buttered bread and pancakes, beefe, mutton,
bacon, egges, butter, fishes, swannes, geese, duckes, hennes, and all maner
of victuals, both fish and flesh, in the best maner, that the rude people
could deuise: for among them, these presents are highly esteemed.
The 29 of Iuly, we departed from Colmogro, and the 14 of August we came to
Vstiug, where we remained one day, and changed our barkes or boates.
The 27 of August, we came to Vologhda, where we remained 4 dayes vnlading
the barkes, and lading our chestes and things in small waggons, with one
horse in a piece, which in their tongue are called Telegos, and with these
Telegoes they caried our stuffe from Vologhda vnto the Mosco, which is 500
verstes: and we were vpon the same way 14 daies: for we went no faster then
the Telegoes.
[Sidenote: The citie of Boghar.] There are three great townes betweene the
Mosco and Vologhda, that is to say, Yeraslaue, Rostaue, and Pereslaue. Vpon
one side of Yeraslaue runneth a famous riuer which is called Volga. It
runneth into the Caspian sea, and it diuideth it selfe before it come into
the Mare Caspium, in 50 parts or more, and neere vnto the same sea there
stands a great Citie, called Boghar, the inhabitants of which are called by
the same name.