called (as we learned afterwards) Ægeland and Halgeland [Marginal note: In
this land dwelt Octher, as it seemeth.][Footnote: See Vol I., p. 51 of this
Edition.], which lieth from Orfordnesse North and by East, being in the
latitude of 66 degrees. The distance betweene Orfordnesse and Ægeland 250
leagues. Then we sailed from thence 12 leagues Northwest, and found many
other Islandes, and there came to anker the 19 day, and manned our
Pinnesse, and went on shore to the Islands, and found people mowing and
making of hay, which came to the shore and welcomed vs. In which place were
an innumerable sort of Islands, which were called the Isles of Rost, being
vnder the dominion of the king of Denmarke: which place was in latitude 66
degrees, and 30 minutes. The winde being contrary, we remayned there three
dayes, and there was an innumerable sort of foules of diuers kindes, of
which we tooke very many.
The 22 day the winde coming fayre, we departed from Rost, sailing
Northnortheast, keeping the sea vntil the 27 day, and then we drew neere
vnto the land, which was still East of vs: then went forth our Pinnesse to
seeke harborow, and found many good harbours, of the which we entred into
one with our shippes, which was called Stanfew [Footnote: Steenfjord, on
the West of Lofoden.], and the land being Islands, were called Lewfoot, or
Lofoot, which were plentifully inhabited, and very gentle people, being
also vnder the king of Denmarke: but we could not learne how farre it was
from the maine land: and we remained there vntill the 30 day, being in
latitude 68 degrees, and from the foresaid Rost about 30 leagues
Northnortheast.
The 30 day of Iuly about noone we weyed our ankers, and went into the Seas,
and sayled along these Islands Northnortheast, keeping the land still in
sight vntill the second day of August: then hailing in close aboord the
land, to the entent to knowe what land it was, there came a skiffe of the
island aboord of vs, of whom we asked many questions, who shewed vnto us,
that the Island was called Seynam, which is the latitude of seuenty
degrees, and from Stanfew thirtie leagues, being also vnder the king of
Demarke, and that there was no merchandise there, but onely dryed fish; and
traine oyle. Then we being purposed to goe vnto Finmarke, inquired of him,
if we might haue a pilot to bring vs vnto Finmarke, and he said, that if we
could beare in, we should haue a good harbour, and on the next day a pilot
to bring vs vnto Finmarke, vnto the wardhouse, [Footnote: Vardoe.] which is
the strongest holde in Finmarke, and most resorted to by report. But when
wee would haue entred into an harbour, the land being very high on euery
side, there came such flawes of winde and terrible whirlewinds, that we
were not able to beare in, but by violence were constrained to take the sea
agayne, our Pinnesse being vnshipt: we sailed North and by East, the wind
increasing so sore that we were not able to beare any saile, but tooke them
in, and lay a drift, to the end to let the storme ouer passe. And that
night by violence of winde, and thickenesse of mists, we were not able to
keepe together within sight, and then about midnight we lost our pinnesse,
which was a discomfort vnto vs. Assoone as it was day, and the fogge
ouerpast, we looked about, and at the last we descried one of our shippes
to Leeward of vs: then we spred an hullocke of our foresaile, and bare
roome with her, which was the Confidence, but the Edward we could not see.
[Footnote: This vessel's successful voyage is related further on.] Then the
flaw something abating, we and the Confidence hoysed vp our sailes the
fourth day, sayling Northeast and by North, to the end to fall with the
Wardhouse, as we did consult to doe before, in case we should part company.
Thus running Northeast and by North, and Northeast fiftie leagues, then we
sounded, and had 160 fadomes, whereby we thought to be farre from land, and
perceiued that the land lay not as the Globe made mention. Wherfore we
changed our course the sixt day, and sailed Southeast and by South eight
and fortie leagues, thinking thereby to find the Wardhouse.
The eight day much winde arising at the Westnorthwest, we not knowing how
the coast lay, strook our sayles, and lay a drift, where we sounded and
found 160 fadomes as afore.
The ninth day, the wind vearing to the South Southeast, we sailed Northeast
25 leagues.
The tenth day we sounded, and could get no ground, neither yet could see
any land, wherat we wondered: then the wind comming at the Northeast, we
ran Southeast about 48 leagues.
The 11 day, the winde being at South, we sounded, and found 40 fadoms, and
faire sand.
The 12 day the winde being at South and by East, we lay with our saile
East, and East and by North 30 leagues.
[Sidenote: Willoughbie his land in 72 degrees.] The 14 day early in the
morning we descried land, which land we bare with all, hoising out our boat
to discouer what land it might be: but the boat could not come to land the
water was so shoale, where was very much ice also, but there was no
similitude of habitation, and this land lyeth from Seynam East and by
North, 160 leagues, being in latitude 72 degrees. Then we plyed to the
Northward the 15, 16 and 17 day. [Footnote: In _Purchas_, III., p. 462,
Thomas Edge, a captain in the service of the Muscovy Company, endeavoured
to show that this land was Spitzbergen. This being proved incorrect, others
have supposed that the land Willoughby saw was Gooseland. or Novaya Zemlya.
Nordenskiöld supposes it to be Kolgujev Island. This, he says, would make
its latitude two degrees less than stated, but such errors are not
impossible in the determination of the oldest explorers.]
The 18 day, the winde comming at the Northeast, and the Confidence being
troubled with bilge water, and stocked, we thought it good to seeke harbour
for her redresse: then we bare roome the 18 day Southsoutheast, about 70
leagues.
The 21 day we sounded, and found 10 fadome, after that we sounded againe,
and found but 7 fadome, so shoalder and shoalder water, and yet could see
no land, where we marueiled greatly: to auoide this danger, we bare roomer
into the sea all that night Northwest and by the West.
The next day we sounded, and had 20. fadoms, then shaped our course, and
ran West Southwest vntill the 23. day: then we descried Low land, vnto
which we bare as nigh as we could, and it appeared vnto vs vnhabitable.
Then we plyed Westward along by that lande, which lyeth West Southwest, and
East Northeast, and much winde blowing at the West, we haled into the sea
North and by East 30. leagues. Then the winde comming about at the
Northeast, we sailed West Northwest: after that, the winde bearing to the
Northwest, we lay with our sailes West southwest, about 14. leagues, and
then descried land, and bare in with it, being the 28 day, finding shoale
water, and bare in till we came to 3. fadome, then perceiuing it to be
shoale water, and also seeing drie sands, we haled out againe Northeast
along that land vntill we came to the point therof. That land turning to
the Westwarde, we ran along 16. leagues Northwest: then comming into a
faire bay, we went on land with our boat, which place was vnhabited, but
yet it appeared vnto vs that the people had bin there, by crosses, and
other signes: from thence we went all along the coast Westward.
The fourth day of September we lost sight of land, by reason of contrary
winds, and the eight day we descried land againe. Within two dayes after we
lost the sight of it: then running West and by South about 30. leagues, we
gat the sight of land againe, and bare in with it vntill night: then
perceiuing it to be a lee shore, we gat vs into the sea, to the end to haue
sea roome.
The 12. of September we hailed to shoareward againe, hauing then
indifferent wind and weather: then beeing neere vnto the shoare, and the
tide almost spent, we came to an anker in 30 fadoms water.
The 13. day we came along the coast, which lay Northwest and by West, and
Southeast and by East.
The 14. day we came to an anker within two leagues of the shoare, hauing
60. fadoms.
There we went a shore with our boat, and found two or three good
harboroughs, the land being rocky, and high, but as for people could we see
none. The 15 day we ran still along the coast vntill the 17 day: then the
winde being contrary vnto vs, we thought it best to returne vnto the harbor
which we had found before, and so we bare roomer with the same, howbeit we
could not accomplish our desire that day. The next day being the 18 of
September, we entred into the Hauen, and there came to an anker at 6
fadoms. This hauen runneth into the maine, about two leagues, and is in
bredth halfe a league, wherein were very many seale fishes, and other great
fishes, and vpon the maine we saw beares, great deere, foxes, with diuers
strange beasts, as guloines, [Marginal note: Or, Ellons.] and such other
which were to vs vnknowen, and also wonderfull. Thus remaining in this
hauen the space of a weeke, seeing the yeare farre spent, and also very
euill wether, as frost, snow, and haile, as though it had beene the deepe
of winter, we thought best to winter there. Wherefore we sent out three men
Southsouthwest, to search if they could find people who went three dayes
iourney, but could figd none: after that, we sent other three Westward
foure daies iourney, which also returned without finding any people. Then
sent we three men Southeast three dayes three dayes iourney, who in like
sorte returned without finding of people, or any similitude of habitation.
_Here endeth Sir Hugh Willoughbie his note, which was written with his owne
hand._
These two notes following were written vpon the outside of this Pamphlet,
or Booke.
1. The proceedings of Sir Hugh Willoughby after he was separated from the
Edward Bonauenture.
2. Our shippe being at an anker in the harbour called Sterfier in the
Island Lofoote. [Footnote: The object of Willoughby's voyage was to
discover a new route to Asia, inaccessible to the armadas of Spain and
Portugal, a feat only performed in 1878-9 by Professor Nordenskiöld. It was
the first maritime expedition on a large scale sent out by England. The
above narrative, written by Willoughby himself, is all we know of that
unfortunate navigator's proceedings after his separation from the _Edward
Bonaventure_ in August 1553. The following year some Russian fishermen
found, at the ship's winter station, the bodies of those who had perished,
probably of scurvy, with the above journal and a will, referred to in the
note on page 40. The two ships, with Willoughby's corpse, were sent to
England in 1555 by George Killingworth.]
The riuer or hauen wherein Sir Hugh Willoughbie with the companie of his
two ships perished for cold, is called Arzina in Lapland, neere vnto Kegor.
[Footnote: "With regard to the position of Arzina, it appears from a
statement in Anthony Jenkinson's first voyage [_see post_] that it took
seven days to go from Vardoehus to Swjatoinos, and that on the sixth he
passed the mouth of the river where Sir Hugh Willoughby wintered. At a
distance from Vardoehus of about six-sevenths of the way Between that town
and Swjatoinos, there debouches into the Arctic Ocean, in 68 deg. 20 min.
N. L. and 38 deg. 30 min. E. L. from Greenwich, a river, which in recent
maps is called the Varzina. It was doubtless at the mouth of this river
that the two vessels of the first North-East Passage Expedition wintered,
with so unfortunate an issue for the officers and men."--NORDENSKIÖLD,
_Voyage of the Vega_, Vol. I., p. 63.] But it appeared by a Will found in
the ship that Sir Hugh Willoughbie and most of the company were aliue in
January 1554. [Footnote: The testator was Gabriel Willoughby, and Sir Hugh
was a witness.]
* * * * *
The booke of the great and mighty Emperor of Russia, and Duke of Muscouia,
and of the dominions orders and commodities thereunto belonging: drawen
by Richard Chancelour.
Forasmuch as it is meete and necessary for all those that minde to take in
hande the trauell into farre or strange countreys, to endeuour themselues
not onely to vngerstande the orders, commodities, and fruitfulnesse
thereof, but also to applie them to the setting foorth of the same, whereby
it may incourage others to the like trauaile: therefore haue I nowe thought
good to make a briefe rehearsall of the orders of this my trauaile in
Russia and Moscouia, and other countreys thereunto adioyning; because it
was my chaunce to fall with the North partes of Russia before I came
towards Moscouia, I will partly declare my knowledge therein. Russia is
very plentifull both of land and people, and also wealthy for such
commodities as they haue. They be very great fishers for Salmons and small
Coddes: they haue much oyle which wee call treine oyle, the most whereof is
made by a riuer called Duina. They make it in other places, but not so much
as there. They haue also a great trade in seething of salte water. To the
North parte of that countrey are the places where they haue their Furres,
as Sables, marterns, greese Beuers, Foxes white, blacke, and redde, Minkes,
Ermines, Miniuer, and Harts. There are also a fishes teeth, which fish is
called a Morsse. The takers thereof dwell in a place called Postesora,
[Footnote: Query, Petschora?] which bring them vpon Hartes to Lampas to
sell, and from Lampas carie them to a place called Colmogro, [Footnote:
Cholmogori, near Archangel.] where the hie market is holden on Saint
Nicholas day. To the West of Colmogra there is a place called Gratanowe, in
our language Nouogorode, where much fine flaxe and Hempe groweth, and also
much, waxe and honie. The Dutch marchants haue a Staplehouse there. There
is also great store of hides, and at a place called Plesco: [Footnote:
Ploska, on the Dwina.] and thereabout is great store of Flaxe, Hempe, Waxe,
Honie; and that towne is from Colmogro 120 miles.
There is a place called Vologda; the commodities whereof are Tallowe, Waxe,
and Flaxe: but not so great plenty as is in Gratanowe. From Vologda to
Colmogro there runneth a riuer called Duyna, and from thence it falleth
into the sea. Colmogro serueth Gratonowe, Vologda and the Mosco with all
the countrey thereabout with salte and saltfish. From Vologda to Ieraslaue
is two hundreth miles: [Footnote: Rather less; about 160 miles.] which
towne is very great. The commodities thereof are hides, and talowe, and
come in great plenty, and some Waxe, but not so plentifull as in other
places.
The Mosco is from Ieraslaue two hundreth miles. The countrey betwixt them
is very well replenished with small Villages, which are so well filled with
people, that it is wonder to see them: the ground is well stored with corne
which they carie to the citie of Mosco in such abundance that it is wonder
to see it. You shall meete in a morning seuen or eight hundred sleds
comming or going thither, that carie corne, and some carie fish. You shall
haue some that carie corne to the Mosco, and some that fetch corne from
thence, that at the least dwell a thousand miles off; and all their cariage
is on sleds. Those which come so farre dwell in the North partes of the
Dukes dominions, where the cold will suffer no corne to grow, it is so
extreme. They bring thither fishes, furres, and beastes skinnes. In those
partes they haue but small store of cattell.
The Mosco it selfe is great: I take the whole towne to bee greater then
London with the suburbes: but it is very rude, and standeth without all
order. Their houses are all of timber very dangerous for fire. There is a
faire Castle, the walles whereof are of bricke, and very high: they say
they are eighteene foote thicke, but I doe not beleeue it, it doth not so
seeme, notwithstanding I doe not certainely know it: for no stranger may
come to viewe it. The one side is ditched, and on the other side runneth a
riuer called Moscua which runneth into Tartarie and so into the sea called
Mare Caspium: and on the North side there is a base towne, the which hath
also a bricke wall about it, and so it ioyneth with the Castle wall. The
Emperour lieth in the castle, wherein are nine fayre Churches, and therein
are religious men. Also there is a Metropolitane with diuers Bishops. I
will not stande in description of their buildinges nor of the strength
thereof because we haue better in all points in England. They be well
furnished with ordinance of all sortes.
The Emperours or Dukes house neither in building nor in the outward shew,
nor yet within the house is so sumptuous as I haue seene. It is very lowe
built in eight square, much like the olde building of England, with small
windowes, and so in other poynts.