My second friendship, and one which had a strong influence o

Produced by Mike Lough

THE STORY OF A PIONEER

By Anna Howard Shaw, D.D., M.D.

With The Collaboration Of Elizabeth Jordan

TO THE WOMEN PIONEERS OF AMERICA

They cut a path through tangled underwood

Of old traditions, out to broader ways.

They lived to here their work called brave and good,

But oh! the thorns before the crown of bays.

The world gives lashes to its Pioneers

Until the goal is reached--then deafening cheers.

Adapted by ANNA HOWARD SHAW.

CONTENTS

I. FIRST MEMORIES

II. IN THE WILDERNESS

III. HIGH-SCHOOL AND COLLEGE DAYS

IV. THE WOLF AT THE DOOR

V. SHEPHERD OF A DIVIDED FLOCK

VI. CAPE COD MEMORIES

VII. THE GREAT CAUSE

VIII. DRAMA IN THE LECTURE FIELD

IX. "AUNT SUSAN"

X. THE PASSING OF "AUNT SUSAN"

XI. THE WIDENING SUFFRAGE STREAM

XII. BUILDING A HOME

XIII. PRESIDENT OF "THE NATIONAL"

XIV. RECENT CAMPAIGNS

XV. CONVENTION INCIDENTS

XVI. COUNCIL EPISODES

XVII. VALE!

ILLUSTRATIONS

REVEREND ANNA HOWARD SHAW IN HER PULPIT ROBES

LOCH-AN-EILAN CASTLE

DR SHAW'S MOTHER, NICOLAS SHAW, AT SEVENTEEN

ALNWICK CASTLE

DR. SHAW AT THIRTY-TWO

DR. SHAW AT FIFTY

DR. SHAW AND "HER BABY"--THE DAUGHTER OF RACHEL FOSTER AVERY

DR. SHAW'S MOTHER AT EIGHTY

DR. SHAW'S FATHER AT EIGHTY

DR. SHAW'S SISTER MARY, WHO DIED IN 1883

LUCY E. ANTHONY, DR. SHAW S FRIEND AND "AUNT SUSAN'S"

FAVORITE NIECE

THE WOOD ROAD NEAR DR. SHAW'S CAPE COD HOME, THE HAVEN

DR. SHAW'S COTTAGE, THE HAVEN, AT WIANNO, CAPE

COD--THE FIRST HOME SHE BUILT

GATE ENTRANCE TO DR. SHAW'S HOME AT MOYLAN

THE SECOND HOUSE THAT DR. SHAW BUILT

SUSAN B. ANTHONY

MISS MARY GARRETT, THE LIFE-LONG FRIEND OF MISS THOMAS

MISS M. CAREY THOMAS, PRESIDENT OF BRYN MAWR COLLEGE

ELIZABETH CADY STANTON

CARRIE CHAPMAN CATT

LUCY STONE

MARY A. LIVERMORE

FOUR PIONEERS IN THE SUFFRAGE MOVEMENT

FIREPLACE IN THE LIVING-ROOM, SHOWING AUNT

SUSAN'S" CHAIR

HALLWAY IN DR. SHAW'S HOME AT MOYLAN

DR. SHAW'S HOME (ALNWICK LODGE) AND HER TWO OAKS

THE VERANDA AT ALNWICK LODGE

SACCAWAGEA

ALNWICK LODGE, DR. SHAW'S HOME

THE ROCK-BORDERED BROOK WHICH DR. SHAW LOVES

THE STORY OF A PIONEER

I. FIRST MEMORIES

My father's ancestors were the Shaws of Rothiemurchus, in Scotland,

and the ruins of their castle may still be seen on the island of

Loch-an-Eilan, in the northern Highlands. It was never the picturesque

castle of song and story, this home of the fighting Shaws, but an

austere fortress, probably built in Roman times; and even to-day the

crumbling walls which alone are left of it show traces of the relentless

assaults upon them. Of these the last and the most successful were made

in the seventeenth century by the Grants and Rob Roy; and it was into

the hands of the Grants that the Shaw fortress finally fell, about 1700,

after almost a hundred years of ceaseless warfare.

It gives me no pleasure to read the grisly details of their struggles,

but I confess to a certain satisfaction in the knowledge that my

ancestors made a good showing in the defense of what was theirs. Beyond

doubt they were brave fighters and strong men. There were other sides to

their natures, however, which the high lights of history throw up

less appealingly. As an instance, we have in the family chronicles the

blood-stained page of Allen Shaw, the oldest son of the last Lady Shaw

who lived in the fortress. It appears that when the father of this

young man died, about 1560, his mother married again, to the intense

disapproval of her son. For some time after the marriage he made no open

revolt against the new-comer in the domestic circle; but finally, on the

pretext that his dog had been attacked by his stepfather, he forced a

quarrel with the older man and the two fought a duel with swords, after

which the victorious Allen showed a sad lack of chivalry. He not only

killed his stepfather, but he cut off that gentleman's head and bore it

to his mother in her bedchamber--an action which was considered, even in

that tolerant age, to be carrying filial resentment too far.

Probably Allen regretted it. Certainly he paid a high penalty for it,

and his clan suffered with him. He was outlawed and fled, only to be

hunted down for months, and finally captured and executed by one of the

Grants, who, in further virtuous disapproval of Allen's act, seized and

held the Shaw stronghold. The other Shaws of the clan fought long and

ably for its recovery, but though they were helped by their kinsmen, the

Mackintoshes, and though good Scotch blood dyed the gray walls of the

fortress for many generations, the castle never again came into the

hands of the Shaws. It still entails certain obligations for the Grants,

however, and one of these is to give the King of England a snowball

whenever he visits Loch-an-Eilan!

As the years passed the Shaw clan scattered. Many Shaws are still to be

found in the Mackintosh country and throughout southern Scotland. Others

went to England, and it was from this latter branch that my father

sprang. His name was Thomas Shaw, and he was the younger son of a

gentleman--a word which in those days seemed to define a man who devoted

his time largely to gambling and horse-racing. My grandfather, like his

father before him, was true to the traditions of his time and class.

Quite naturally and simply he squandered all he had, and died abruptly,

leaving his wife and two sons penniless. They were not, however, a

helpless band. They, too, had their traditions, handed down by the

fighting Shaws. Peter, the older son, became a soldier, and died bravely

in the Crimean War. My father, through some outside influence, turned

his attention to trade, learning to stain and emboss wallpaper by hand,

and developing this work until he became the recognized expert in

his field. Indeed, he progressed until he himself checked his rise by

inventing a machine that made his handwork unnecessary. His employer at

once claimed and utilized this invention, to which, by the laws of those

days, he was entitled, and thus the cornerstone on which my father had

expected to build a fortune proved the rock on which his career was

wrecked. But that was years later, in America, and many other things had

happened first.

For one, he had temporarily dropped his trade and gone into the

flour-and-grain business; and, for another, he had married my mother.

She was the daughter of a Scotch couple who had come to England and

settled in Alnwick, in Northumberland County. Her father, James Stott,

was the driver of the royal-mail stage between Alnwick and Newcastle,

and his accidental death while he was still a young man left my

grandmother and her eight children almost destitute. She was immediately

given a position in the castle of the Duke of Northumberland, and

her sons were educated in the duke's school, while her daughters were

entered in the school of the duchess.

My thoughts dwell lovingly on this grandmother, Nicolas Grant Stott, for

she was a remarkable woman, with a dauntless soul and progressive ideas

far in advance of her time. She was one of the first Unitarians in

England, and years before any thought of woman suffrage entered the

minds of her country-women she refused to pay tithes to the support of

the Church of England--an action which precipitated a long-drawn-out

conflict between her and the law. In those days it was customary to

assess tithes on every pane of glass in a window, and a portion of the

money thus collected went to the support of the Church. Year after year

my intrepid grandmother refused to pay these assessments, and year after

year she sat pensively upon her door-step, watching articles of her

furniture being sold for money to pay her tithes. It must have been

an impressive picture, and it was one with which the community became

thoroughly familiar, as the determined old lady never won her fight and

never abandoned it. She had at least the comfort of public sympathy, for

she was by far the most popular woman in the countryside. Her neighbors

admired her courage; perhaps they appreciated still more what she did

for them, for she spent all her leisure in the homes of the very poor,

mending their clothing and teaching them to sew. Also, she left behind

her a path of cleanliness as definite as the line of foam that follows

a ship; for it soon became known among her protegees that Nicolas Stott

was as much opposed to dirt as she was to the payment of tithes.

She kept her children in the schools of the duke and duchess until they

had completed the entire course open to them. A hundred times, and among

many new scenes and strange people, I have heard my mother describe her

own experiences as a pupil. All the children of the dependents of the

castle were expected to leave school at fourteen years of age. During

their course they were not allowed to study geography, because, in the

sage opinion of their elders, knowledge of foreign lands might make

them discontented and inclined to wander. Neither was composition

encouraged--that might lead to the writing of love-notes! But they were

permitted to absorb all the reading and arithmetic their little brains

could hold, while the art of sewing was not only encouraged, but

proficiency in it was stimulated by the award of prizes. My mother,

being a rather precocious young person, graduated at thirteen and

carried off the first prize. The garment she made was a linen chemise

for the duchess, and the little needlewoman had embroidered on it, with

her own hair, the august lady's coat of arms. The offering must have

been appreciated, for my mother's story always ended with the same

words, uttered with the same air of gentle pride, "And the duchess

gave me with her own hands my Bible and my mug of beer!" She never saw

anything amusing in this association of gifts, and I always stood behind

her when she told the incident, that she might not see the disrespectful

mirth it aroused in me.

My father and mother met in Alnwick, and were married in February, 1835.

Ten years after his marriage father was forced into bankruptcy by the

passage of the corn law, and to meet the obligations attending

his failure he and my mother sold practically everything they

possessed--their home, even their furniture. Their little sons, who were

away at school, were brought home, and the family expenses were cut down

to the barest margin; but all these sacrifices paid only part of the

debts. My mother, finding that her early gift had a market value, took

in sewing. Father went to work on a small salary, and both my parents

saved every penny they could lay aside, with the desperate determination

to pay their remaining debts. It was a long struggle and a painful one,

but they finally won it. Before they had done so, however, and during

their bleakest days, their baby died, and my mother, like her mother

before her, paid the penalty of being outside the fold of the Church of

England. She, too, was a Unitarian, and her baby, therefore, could not

be laid in any consecrated burial-ground in her neighborhood. She had

either to bury it in the Potter's Field, with criminals, suicides, and

paupers, or to take it by stage-coach to Alnwick, twenty miles away, and

leave it in the little Unitarian churchyard where, after her strenuous

life, Nicolas Stott now lay in peace. She made the dreary journey alone,

with the dear burden across her lap.

In 1846, my parents went to London. There they did not linger long,

for the big, indifferent city had nothing to offer them. They moved

to Newcastle-on-Tyne, and here I was born, on the fourteenth day of

February, in 1847. Three boys and two girls had preceded me in the

family circle, and when I was two years old my younger sister came. We

were little better off in Newcastle than in London, and now my father

began to dream the great dream of those days. He would go to America.

Surely, he felt, in that land of infinite promise all would be well with

him and his. He waited for the final payment of his debts and for my

younger sister's birth. Then he bade us good-by and sailed away to make

an American home for us; and in the spring of 1851 my mother followed

him with her six children, starting from Liverpool in a sailing-vessel,

the John Jacob Westervelt.

I was then little more than four years old, and the first vivid memory

I have is that of being on shipboard and having a mighty wave roll

over me. I was lying on what seemed to be an enormous red box under a

hatchway, and the water poured from above, almost drowning me. This was

the beginning of a storm which raged for days, and I still have of it a

confused memory, a sort of nightmare, in which strange horrors figure,

and which to this day haunts me at intervals when I am on the sea. The

thing that stands out most strongly during that period is the white face

of my mother, ill in her berth. We were with five hundred emigrants on

the lowest deck of the ship but one, and as the storm grew wilder an

unreasoning terror filled our fellow-passengers. Too ill to protect her

helpless brood, my mother saw us carried away from her for hours at a

time, on the crests of waves of panic that sometimes approached her

and sometimes receded, as they swept through the black hole in which

we found ourselves when the hatches were nailed down. No madhouse, I am

sure, could throw more hideous pictures on the screen of life than

those which met our childish eyes during the appalling three days of the

storm. Our one comfort was the knowledge that our mother was not afraid.

She was desperately ill, but when we were able to reach her, to cling

close to her for a blessed interval, she was still the sure refuge she

had always been.

On the second day the masts went down, and on the third day the disabled

ship, which now had sprung a leak and was rolling helplessly in the

trough of the sea, was rescued by another ship and towed back to

Queenstown, the nearest port. The passengers, relieved of their

anxieties, went from their extreme of fear to an equal extreme of

drunken celebration. They laughed, sang, and danced, but when we reached

the shore many of them returned to the homes they had left, declaring

that they had had enough of the ocean. We, however, remained on the ship

until she was repaired, and then sailed on her again. We were too poor

to return home; indeed, we had no home to which we could return. We were

even too poor to live ashore. But we made some penny excursions in the

little boats that plied back and forth, and to us children at least

the weeks of waiting were not without interest. Among other places we

visited Spike Island, where the convicts were, and for hours we watched

the dreary shuttle of labor swing back and forth as the convicts carried

pails of water from one side of the island, only to empty them into the

sea at the other side. It was merely "busy work," to keep them occupied

at hard labor; but even then I must have felt some dim sense of the

irony of it, for I have remembered it vividly all these years.

Our second voyage on the John Jacob Westervelt was a very different

experience from the first. By day a glorious sun shone overhead; by

night we had the moon and stars, as well as the racing waves we never

wearied of watching. For some reason, probably because of my intense

admiration for them, which I showed with unmaidenly frankness, I became

the special pet of the sailors. They taught me to sing their songs

as they hauled on their ropes, and I recall, as if I had learned it

yesterday, one pleasing ditty:

Haul on the bow-line,

Kitty is my darling,

Haul on the bow-line,

The bow-line--HAUL!

When I sang "haul" all the sailors pulled their hardest, and I had

an exhilarating sense of sharing in their labors. As a return for my

service of song the men kept my little apron full of ship sugar--very

black stuff and probably very bad for me; but I ate an astonishing

amount of it during that voyage, and, so far as I remember, felt no ill

effects.

The next thing I recall is being seriously scalded. I was at the foot

of a ladder up which a sailor was carrying a great pot of hot coffee. He

slipped, and the boiling liquid poured down on me. I must have had some

bad days after that, for I was terribly burned, but they are mercifully

vague. My next vivid impression is of seeing land, which we sighted at

sunset, and I remember very distinctly just how it looked. It has never

looked the same since. The western sky was a mass of crimson and gold

clouds, which took on the shapes of strange and beautiful things. To

me it seemed that we were entering heaven. I remember also the doctors

coming on board to examine us, and I can still see a line of big

Irishmen standing very straight and holding out their tongues for

inspection. To a little girl only four years old their huge, open mouths

looked appalling.

On landing a grievous disappointment awaited us; my father did not

meet us. He was in New Bedford, Massachusetts, nursing his grief and

preparing to return to England, for he had been told that the John Jacob

Westervelt had been lost at sea with every soul on board. One of the

missionaries who met the ship took us under his wing and conducted us

to a little hotel, where we remained until father had received his

incredible news and rushed to New York. He could hardly believe that

we were really restored to him; and even now, through the mists of more

than half a century, I can still see the expression in his wet eyes as

he picked me up and tossed me into the air.

I can see, too, the toys he brought me--a little saw and a hatchet,

which became the dearest treasures of my childish days. They were

fatidical gifts, that saw and hatchet; in the years ahead of me I was to

use tools as well as my brothers did, as I proved when I helped to build

our frontier home.

We went to New Bedford with father, who had found work there at his old

trade; and here I laid the foundations of my first childhood friendship,

not with another child, but with my next-door neighbor, a ship-builder.

Morning after morning this man swung me on his big shoulder and took

me to his shipyard, where my hatchet and saw had violent exercise as I

imitated the workers around me. Discovering that my tiny petticoats were

in my way, my new friend had a little boy's suit made for me; and thus

emancipated, at this tender age, I worked unwearyingly at his side all

day long and day after day. No doubt it was due to him that I did not

casually saw off a few of my toes and fingers. Certainly I smashed them

often enough with blows of my dull but active hatchet. I was very, very

busy; and I have always maintained that I began to earn my share of the

family's living at the age of five--for in return for the delights of my

society, which seemed never to pall upon him, my new friend allowed my

brothers to carry home from the shipyard all the wood my mother could

use.

We remained in New Bedford less than a year, for in the spring of

1852 my father made another change, taking his family to Lawrence,

Massachusetts, where we lived until 1859. The years in Lawrence were

interesting and formative ones. At the tender age of nine and ten I

became interested in the Abolition movement. We were Unitarians, and

General Oliver and many of the prominent citizens of Lawrence belonged

to the Unitarian Church. We knew Robert Shaw, who led the first negro

regiment, and Judge Storrow, one of the leading New England judges of

his time, as well as the Cabots and George A. Walton, who was the author

of Walton's Arithmetic and head of the Lawrence schools. Outbursts of

war talk thrilled me, and occasionally I had a little adventure of my

own, as when one day, in visiting our cellar, I heard a noise in the

coal-bin. I investigated and discovered a negro woman concealed there.

I had been reading Uncle Tom's Cabin, as well as listening to the

conversation of my elders, so I was vastly stirred over the negro

question. I raced up-stairs in a condition of awe-struck and quivering

excitement, which my mother promptly suppressed by sending me to bed. No

doubt she questioned my youthful discretion, for she almost convinced

me that I had seen nothing at all--almost, but not quite; and she wisely

kept me close to her for several days, until the escaped slave my father

was hiding was safely out of the house and away. Discovery of this

serious offense might have borne grave results for him.

It was in Lawrence, too, that I received and spent my first twenty-five

cents. I used an entire day in doing this, and the occasion was one of

the most delightful and memorable of my life. It was the Fourth of July,

and I was dressed in white and rode in a procession. My sister Mary, who

also graced the procession, had also been given twenty-five cents; and

during the parade, when, for obvious reasons, we were unable to break

ranks and spend our wealth, the consciousness of it lay heavily upon

us. When we finally began our shopping the first place we visited was a

candy store, and I recall distinctly that we forced the weary proprietor

to take down and show us every jar in the place before we spent one

penny. The first banana I ever ate was purchased that day, and I

hesitated over it a long time. Its cost was five cents, and in view of

that large expenditure, the eating of the fruit, I was afraid, would be

too brief a joy. I bought it, however, and the experience developed into

a tragedy, for, not knowing enough to peel the banana, I bit through

skin and pulp alike, as if I were eating an apple, and then burst into

ears of disappointment. The beautiful conduct of my sister Mary shines

down through the years. She, wise child, had taken no chances with the

unknown; but now, moved by my despair, she bought half of my banana,

and we divided the fruit, the loss, and the lesson. Fate, moreover, had

another turn of the screw for us, for, after Mary had taken a bite of

it, we gave what was left of the banana to a boy who stood near us and

who knew how to eat it; and not even the large amount of candy in our

sticky hands enabled us to regard with calmness the subsequent happiness

of that little boy.

Another experience with fruit in Lawrence illustrates the ideas of my

mother and the character of the training she gave her children. Our

neighbors, the Cabots, were one day giving a great garden party, and

my sister was helping to pick strawberries for the occasion. When I was

going home from school I passed the berry-patches and stopped to speak

to my sister, who at once presented me with two strawberries. She said

Mrs. Cabot had told her to eat all she wanted, but that she would eat

two less than she wanted and give those two to me. To my mind, the

suggestion was generous and proper; in my life strawberries were rare.

I ate one berry, and then, overcome by an ambition to be generous also,

took the other berry home to my mother, telling her how I had got it. To

my chagrin, mother was deeply shocked. She told me that the transaction

was all wrong, and she made me take back the berry and explain the

matter to Mrs. Cabot. By the time I reached that generous lady the berry

was the worse for its journey, and so was I. I was only nine years old

and very sensitive. It was clear to me that I could hardly live through

the humiliation of the confession, and it was indeed a bitter experience

the worst, I think, in my young life, though Mrs. Cabot was both

sympathetic and understanding. She kissed me, and sent a quart of

strawberries to my mother; but for a long time afterward I could not

meet her kind eyes, for I believed that in her heart she thought me a

thief.

My second friendship, and one which had a strong influence on my

after-life, was formed in Lawrence. I was not more than ten years old

when I met this new friend, but the memory of her in after-years, and

the impression she had made on my susceptible young mind, led me first

into the ministry, next into medicine, and finally into suffrage-work.

Living next door to us, on Prospect Hill, was a beautiful and mysterious

woman. All we children knew of her was that she was a vivid and romantic

figure, who seemed to have no friends and of whom our elders spoke in

whispers or not at all. To me she was a princess in a fairy-tale, for

she rode a white horse and wore a blue velvet riding-habit with a blue

velvet hat and a picturesquely drooping white plume. I soon learned at

what hours she went forth to ride, and I used to hover around our gate

for the joy of seeing her mount and gallop away. I realized that there

was something unusual about her house, and I had an idea that the prince

was waiting for her somewhere in the far distance, and that for the time

at least she had escaped the ogre in the castle she left behind. I was

wrong about the prince, but right about the ogre. It was only when my

unhappy lady left her castle that she was free.

Very soon she noticed me. Possibly she saw the adoration in my childish

eyes. She began to nod and smile at me, and then to speak to me, but at

first I was almost afraid to answer her. There were stories now among

the children that the house was haunted, and that by night a ghost

walked there and in the grounds. I felt an extraordinary interest in

the ghost, and I spent hours peering through our picket fence, trying

to catch a glimpse of it; but I hesitated to be on terms of neighborly

intimacy with one who dwelt with ghosts.

One day the mysterious lady bent and kissed me. Then, straightening up,

she looked at me queerly and said: "Go and tell your mother I did that."

There was something very compelling in her manner. I knew at once that I

must tell my mother what she had done, and I ran into our house and did

so. While my mother was considering the problem the situation presented,

for she knew the character of the house next door, a note was handed in

to her--a very pathetic little note from my mysterious lady, asking my

mother to let me come and see her. Long afterward mother showed it to

me. It ended with the words: "She will see no one but me. No harm shall

come to her. Trust me."

That night my parents talked the matter over and decided to let me go.

Probably they felt that the slave next door was as much to be pitied as

the escaped-negro slaves they so often harbored in our home. I made my

visit, which was the first of many, and a strange friendship began and

developed between the woman of the town and the little girl she loved.

Some of those visits I remember as vividly as if I had made them

yesterday. There was never the slightest suggestion during any of them

of things I should not see or hear, for while I was with her my hostess

became a child again, and we played together like children. She had

wonderful toys for me, and pictures and books; but the thing I loved

best of all and played with for hours was a little stuffed hen which she

told me had been her dearest treasure when she was a child at home. She

had also a stuffed puppy, and she once mentioned that those two things

alone were left of her life as a little girl. Besides the toys and books

and pictures, she gave me ice-cream and cake, and told me fairy-tales.

She had a wonderful understanding of what a child likes. There were half

a dozen women in the house with her, but I saw none of them nor any of

the men who came.

Once, when we had become very good friends indeed and my early shyness

had departed, I found courage to ask her where the ghost was--the ghost

that haunted her house. I can still see the look in her eyes as they

met mine. She told me the ghost lived in her heart, and that she did

not like to talk about it, and that we must not speak of it again. After

that I never mentioned it, but I was more deeply interested than ever,

for a ghost that lived in a heart was a new kind of ghost to me at

that time, though I have met many of them since then. During all our

intercourse my mother never entered the house next door, nor did my

mysterious lady enter our home; but she constantly sent my mother secret

gifts for the poor and the sick of the neighborhood, and she was always

the first to offer help for those who were in trouble. Many years

afterward mother told me she was the most generous woman she had ever

known, and that she had a rarely beautiful nature. Our departure for

Michigan broke up the friendship, but I have never forgotten her; and

whenever, in my later work as minister, physician, and suffragist, I

have been able to help women of the class to which she belonged, I have

mentally offered that help for credit in the tragic ledger of her life,

in which the clean and the blotted pages were so strange a contrast.

One more incident of Lawrence I must describe before I leave that city

behind me, as we left it for ever in 1859. While we were still there

a number of Lawrence men decided to go West, and amid great public

excitement they departed in a body for Kansas, where they founded the

town of Lawrence in that state. I recall distinctly the public interest

which attended their going, and the feeling every one seemed to have

that they were passing forever out of the civilized world. Their

farewells to their friends were eternal; no one expected to see them

again, and my small brain grew dizzy as I tried to imagine a place so

remote as their destination. It was, I finally decided, at the

uttermost ends of the earth, and it seemed quite possible that the brave

adventurers who reached it might then drop off into space. Fifty years

later I was talking to a California girl who complained lightly of the

monotony of a climate where the sun shone and the flowers bloomed all

the year around. "But I had a delightful change last year," she added,

with animation. "I went East for the winter."

"To New York?" I asked.

"No," corrected the California girl, easily, "to Lawrence, Kansas."

Nothing, I think, has ever made me feel quite so old as that remark.

That in my life, not yet, to me at least, a long one, I should see such

an arc described seemed actually oppressive until I realized that,

after all, the arc was merely a rainbow of time showing how gloriously

realized were the hopes of the Lawrence pioneers.

The move to Michigan meant a complete upheaval in our lives. In Lawrence

we had around us the fine flower of New England civilization. We

children went to school; our parents, though they were in very humble

circumstances, were associated with the leading spirits and the

big movements of the day. When we went to Michigan we went to the

wilderness, to the wild pioneer life of those times, and we were all old

enough to keenly feel the change.

My father was one of a number of Englishmen who took up tracts in the

northern forests of Michigan, with the old dream of establishing a

colony there. None of these men had the least practical knowledge

of farming. They were city men or followers of trades which had

no connection with farm life. They went straight into the thick

timber-land, instead of going to the rich and waiting prairies, and they

crowned this initial mistake by cutting down the splendid timber instead

of letting it stand. Thus bird's-eye maple and other beautiful woods

were used as fire-wood and in the construction of rude cabins, and the

greatest asset of the pioneers was ignored.

Father preceded us to the Michigan woods, and there, with his oldest

son, James, took up a claim. They cleared a space in the wilderness just

large enough for a log cabin, and put up the bare walls of the cabin

itself. Then father returned to Lawrence and his work, leaving James

behind. A few months later (this was in 1859), my mother, my two

sisters, Eleanor and Mary, my youngest brother, Henry, eight years of

age, and I, then twelve, went to Michigan to work on and hold down the

claim while father, for eighteen months longer, stayed on in Lawrence,

sending us such remittances as he could. His second and third sons, John

and Thomas, remained in the East with him.

Every detail of our journey through the wilderness is clear in my mind.

At that time the railroad terminated at Grand Rapids, Michigan, and

we covered the remaining distance--about one hundred miles--by wagon,

riding through a dense and often trackless forest. My brother James met

us at Grand Rapids with what, in those days, was called a lumber-wagon,

but which had a horrible resemblance to a vehicle from the health

department. My sisters and I gave it one cold look and turned from

it; we were so pained by its appearance that we refused to ride in it

through the town. Instead, we started off on foot, trying to look as if

we had no association with it, and we climbed into the unwieldy vehicle

only when the city streets were far behind us. Every available inch of

space in the wagon was filled with bedding and provisions. As yet we

had no furniture; we were to make that for ourselves when we reached

our cabin; and there was so little room for us to ride that we children

walked by turns, while James, from the beginning of the journey to its

end, seven days later, led our weary horses.

To my mother, who was never strong, the whole experience must have been

a nightmare of suffering and stoical endurance. For us children there

were compensations. The expedition took on the character of a high

adventure, in which we sometimes had shelter and sometimes failed

to find it, sometimes were fed, but often went hungry. We forded

innumerable streams, the wheels of the heavy wagon sinking so deeply

into the stream-beds that we often had to empty our load before we could

get them out again. Fallen trees lay across our paths, rivers caused

long detours, while again and again we lost our way or were turned aside

by impenetrable forest tangles.

Our first day's journey covered less than eight miles, and that night we

stopped at a farm-house which was the last bit of civilization we saw.

Early the next morning we were off again, making the slow progress due

to the rough roads and our heavy load. At night we stopped at a place

called Thomas's Inn, only to be told by the woman who kept it that

there was nothing in the house to eat. Her husband, she said, had gone

"outside" (to Grand Rapids) to get some flour, and had not returned--but

she added that we could spend the night, if we chose, and enjoy shelter,

if not food. We had provisions in our wagon, so we wearily entered,

after my brother had got out some of our pork and opened a barrel of

flour. With this help the woman made some biscuits, which were so green

that my poor mother could not eat them. She had admitted to us that

the one thing she had in the house was saleratus, and she had used this

ingredient with an unsparing hand. When the meal was eaten she broke the

further news that there were no beds.

"The old woman can sleep with me," she suggested, "and the girls can

sleep on the floor. The boys will have to go to the barn." She and her

bed were not especially attractive, and mother decided to lie on the

floor with us. We had taken our bedding from the wagon, and we slept

very well; but though she was usually superior to small annoyances, I

think my mother resented being called an "old woman." She must have felt

like one that night, but she was only about forty-eight years of age.

At dawn the next morning we resumed our journey, and every day after

that we were able to cover the distance demanded by the schedule

arranged before we started. This meant that some sort of shelter usually

awaited us at night. But one day we knew there would be no houses

between the place we left in the morning and that where we were to

sleep. The distance was about twenty miles, and when twilight fell we

had not made it. In the back of the wagon my mother had a box of little

pigs, and during the afternoon these had broken loose and escaped

into the woods. We had lost much time in finding them, and we were so

exhausted that when we came to a hut made of twigs and boughs we decided

to camp in it for the night, though we knew nothing about it. My brother

had unharnessed the horses, and my mother and sister were cooking

dough-god--a mixture of flour, water, and soda, fried in a pan-when two

men rode up on horseback and called my brother to one side. Immediately

after the talk which followed James harnessed his horses again and

forced us to go on, though by that time darkness had fallen. He told

mother, but did not tell us children until long afterward, that a man

had been murdered in the hut only the night before. The murderer was

still at large in the woods, and the new-comers were members of a posse

who were searching for him. My brother needed no urging to put as many

miles as he could between us and the sinister spot.

In that fashion we made our way to our new home. The last day, like the

first, we traveled only eight miles, but we spent the night in a house

I shall never forget. It was beautifully clean, and for our evening meal

its mistress brought out loaves of bread which were the largest we had

ever seen. She cut great slices of this bread for us and spread maple

sugar on them, and it seemed to us that never before had anything tasted

so good.

The next morning we made the last stage of our journey, our hearts

filled with the joy of nearing our new home. We all had an idea that we

were going to a farm, and we expected some resemblance at least to the

prosperous farms we had seen in New England. My mother's mental picture

was, naturally, of an English farm. Possibly she had visions of red

barns and deep meadows, sunny skies and daisies. What we found awaiting

us were the four walls and the roof of a good-sized log-house, standing

in a small cleared strip of the wilderness, its doors and windows

represented by square holes, its floor also a thing of the future, its

whole effect achingly forlorn and desolate. It was late in the afternoon

when we drove up to the opening that was its front entrance, and I shall

never forget the look my mother turned upon the place. Without a word

she crossed its threshold, and, standing very still, looked slowly

around her. Then something within her seemed to give way, and she sank

upon the ground. She could not realize even then, I think, that this was

really the place father had prepared for us, that here he expected us to

live. When she finally took it in she buried her face in her hands, and

in that way she sat for hours without moving or speaking. For the first

time in her life she had forgotten us; and we, for our part, dared not

speak to her. We stood around her in a frightened group, talking to one

another in whispers. Our little world had crumbled under our feet. Never

before had we seen our mother give way to despair.

Night began to fall. The woods became alive with night creatures, and

the most harmless made the most noise. The owls began to hoot, and

soon we heard the wildcat, whose cry--a screech like that of a lost and

panic-stricken child--is one of the most appalling sounds of the forest.

Later the wolves added their howls to the uproar, but though darkness

came and we children whimpered around her, our mother still sat in her

strange lethargy.

At last my brother brought the horses close to the cabin and built fires

to protect them and us. He was only twenty, but he showed himself a man

during those early pioneer days. While he was picketing the horses and

building his protecting fires my mother came to herself, but her face

when she raised it was worse than her silence had been. She seemed to

have died and to have returned to us from the grave, and I am sure she

felt that she had done so. From that moment she took up again the burden

of her life, a burden she did not lay down until she passed away; but

her face never lost the deep lines those first hours of her pioneer life

had cut upon it.

That night we slept on boughs spread on the earth inside the cabin

walls, and we put blankets before the holes which represented our doors

and windows, and kept our watch-fires burning. Soon the other children

fell asleep, but there was no sleep for me. I was only twelve years old,

but my mind was full of fancies. Behind our blankets, swaying in the

night wind, I thought I saw the heads and pushing shoulders of animals

and heard their padded footfalls. Later years brought familiarity with

wild things, and with worse things than they. But to-night that which I

most feared was within, not outside of, the cabin. In some way which I

did not understand the one sure refuge in our new world had been taken

from us. I hardly knew the silent woman who lay near me, tossing from

side to side and staring into the darkness; I felt that we had lost our

mother.

II. IN THE WILDERNESS

Like most men, my dear father should never have married. Though his

nature was one of the sweetest I have ever known, and though he would

at any call give his time to or risk his life for others, in practical

matters he remained to the end of his days as irresponsible as a child.

If his mind turned to practical details at all, it was solely in their

bearing toward great developments of the future. To him an acorn was not

an acorn, but a forest of young oaks.

Thus, when he took up his claim of three hundred and sixty acres of

land in the wilderness of northern Michigan, and sent my mother and

five young children to live there alone until he could join us eighteen

months later, he gave no thought to the manner in which we were to make

the struggle and survive the hardships before us. He had furnished us

with land and the four walls of a log cabin. Some day, he reasoned, the

place would be a fine estate, which his sons would inherit and in

the course of time pass on to their sons--always an Englishman's most

iridescent dream. That for the present we were one hundred miles from

a railroad, forty miles from the nearest post-office, and half a dozen

miles from any neighbors save Indians, wolves, and wildcats; that we

were wholly unlearned in the ways of the woods as well as in the most

primitive methods of farming; that we lacked not only every comfort, but

even the bare necessities of life; and that we must begin, single-handed

and untaught, a struggle for existence in which some of the severest

forces of nature would be arrayed against us--these facts had no weight

in my father's mind. Even if he had witnessed my mother's despair on the

night of our arrival in our new home, he would not have understood it.

From his viewpoint, he was doing a man's duty. He was working steadily

in Lawrence, and, incidentally, giving much time to the Abolition cause

and to other big public movements of his day which had his interest and

sympathy. He wrote to us regularly and sent us occasional remittances,

as well as a generous supply of improving literature for our minds.

It remained for us to strengthen our bodies, to meet the conditions in

which he had placed us, and to survive if we could.

We faced our situation with clear and unalarmed eyes the morning after

our arrival. The problem of food, we knew, was at least temporarily

solved. We had brought with us enough coffee, pork, and flour to last

for several weeks; and the one necessity father had put inside the cabin

walls was a great fireplace, made of mud and stones, in which our food

could be cooked. The problem of our water-supply was less simple, but

my brother James solved it for the time by showing us a creek a long

distance from the house; and for months we carried from this creek, in

pails, every drop of water we used, save that which we caught in troughs

when the rain fell.

We held a family council after breakfast, and in this, though I was only

twelve, I took an eager and determined part. I loved work--it has

always been my favorite form of recreation--and my spirit rose to the

opportunities of it which smiled on us from every side. Obviously the

first thing to do was to put doors and windows into the yawning holes

father had left for them, and to lay a board flooring over the earth

inside our cabin walls, and these duties we accomplished before we had

occupied our new home a fortnight. There was a small saw-mill nine miles

from our cabin, on the spot that is now Big Rapids, and there we bought

our lumber. The labor we supplied ourselves, and though we put our

hearts into it and the results at the time seemed beautiful to our

partial eyes, I am forced to admit, in looking back upon them, that they

halted this side of perfection. We began by making three windows and two

doors; then, inspired by these achievements, we ambitiously constructed

an attic and divided the ground floor with partitions, which gave us

four rooms.

The general effect was temperamental and sketchy. The boards which

formed the floor were never even nailed down; they were fine, wide

planks without a knot in them, and they looked so well that we merely

fitted them together as closely as we could and lightheartedly let them

go at that. Neither did we properly chink the house. Nothing is

more comfortable than a log cabin which has been carefully built and

finished; but for some reason--probably because there seemed always a

more urgent duty calling to us around the corner--we never plastered

our house at all. The result was that on many future winter mornings we

awoke to find ourselves chastely blanketed by snow, while the only warm

spot in our living-room was that directly in front of the fireplace,

where great logs burned all day. Even there our faces scorched while

our spines slowly congealed, until we learned to revolve before the fire

like a bird upon a spit. No doubt we would have worked more thoroughly

if my brother James, who was twenty years old and our tower of strength,

had remained with us; but when we had been in our new home only a few

months he fell and was forced to go East for an operation. He was never

able to return to us, and thus my mother, we three young girls, and my

youngest brother--Harry, who was only eight years old--made our fight

alone until father came to us, more than a year later.

Mother was practically an invalid. She had a nervous affection which

made it impossible for her to stand without the support of a chair. But

she sewed with unusual skill, and it was due to her that our clothes,

notwithstanding the strain to which we subjected them, were always in

good condition. She sewed for hours every day, and she was able to move

about the house, after a fashion, by pushing herself around on a stool

which James made for her as soon as we arrived. He also built for her a

more comfortable chair with a high back.

The division of labor planned at the first council was that mother

should do our sewing, and my older sisters, Eleanor and Mary, the

housework, which was far from taxing, for of course we lived in the

simplest manner. My brothers and I were to do the work out of doors, an

arrangement that suited me very well, though at first, owing to our lack

of experience, our activities were somewhat curtailed. It was too late

in the season for plowing or planting, even if we had possessed anything

with which to plow, and, moreover, our so-called "cleared" land was

thick with sturdy tree-stumps. Even during the second summer plowing was

impossible; we could only plant potatoes and corn, and follow the most

primitive method in doing even this. We took an ax, chopped up the sod,

put the seed under it, and let the seed grow. The seed did grow, too--in

the most gratifying and encouraging manner. Our green corn and potatoes

were the best I have ever eaten. But for the present we lacked these

luxuries.

We had, however, in their place, large quantities of wild

fruit--gooseberries, raspberries, and plums--which Harry and I gathered

on the banks of our creek. Harry also became an expert fisherman. We

had no hooks or lines, but he took wires from our hoop-skirts and made

snares at the ends of poles. My part of this work was to stand on a

log and frighten the fish out of their holes by making horrible sounds,

which I did with impassioned earnestness. When the fish hurried to the

surface of the water to investigate the appalling noises they had heard,

they were easily snared by our small boy, who was very proud of his

ability to contribute in this way to the family table.

During our first winter we lived largely on cornmeal, making a little

journey of twenty miles to the nearest mill to buy it; but even at that

we were better off than our neighbors, for I remember one family in our

region who for an entire winter lived solely on coarse-grained yellow

turnips, gratefully changing their diet to leeks when these came in the

spring.

Such furniture as we had we made ourselves. In addition to my mother's

two chairs and the bunks which took the place of beds, James made a

settle for the living-room, as well as a table and several stools. At

first we had our tree-cutting done for us, but we soon became expert in

this gentle art, and I developed such skill that in later years, after

father came, I used to stand with him and "heart" a log.

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