I have got your letter, and glad enough I was to get it. The day after
to-morrow I shall depart from here for Fort Augustus, at some distance up
the lake. After staying a few days there, I am thinking of going to the
Isle of Mull, but I will write to you if possible from Fort Augustus.
I am rather sorry that I came to Scotland--I was never in such a place in
my life for cheating and imposition, and the farther north you go the
worse things seem to be. And yet I believe it is possible to live very
cheaply here, that is if you have a house of your own and a wife to go
out and make bargains; for things are abundant enough, but if you move
about you are at the mercy of innkeepers and suchlike people.
The other day I was swindled out of a shilling by a villain to whom I had
given it for change. I ought, perhaps, to have had him up before a
magistrate, provided I could have found one. But I was in a wild place,
and he had a clan about him, and if I had had him up I have no doubt I
should have been outsworn. I, however, have met one fine, noble old
fellow. The other night I lost my way amongst horrible moors, and
wandered for miles and miles without seeing a soul. At last I saw a
light, which came from the window of a rude hovel. I tapped, at the
window, and shouted, and at last an old man came out. He asked me what I
wanted, and I told him I had lost my way. He asked me where I came from,
and where I wanted to go; and on my telling him he said I had indeed lost
my way, for I had got out of it at least four miles, and was going away
from the place I wanted to get to. He then said he would show me the
way, and went with me for several miles over most horrible places. At
last we came to a road where he said he thought he might leave me, and
wished me goodnight. I gave him a shilling. He was very grateful, and
said, after considering, that as I had behaved so handsomely to him he
would not leave me yet, as he thought it possible I might yet lose my
way. He then went with me three miles farther, and I have no doubt that,
but for him, I should have lost my way again the roads were so tangled.
I never saw such an old fellow, or one whose conversation was so odd and
entertaining. This happened last Monday night, the night of the day in
which I had been swindled of the shilling by the other; I could write a
history about those two shillings.
[GEORGE BORROW.]
LETTER XV.
_To_ MRS. MACOUBREY.
OULTON,
LOWESTOFT.
_April_ 1_st_, 1874.