_Chioggia_
[Illustration: VENICE FROM THE SOUTH]
A still finer view of the Lidi is obtained by a voyage to Chioggia and
back on the steamers which start from the Riva some half-dozen times
daily, and if the voyager happen on a sunny, vaporous day he will enjoy
a feast of gorgeous colour almost cloying in its richness.
On loosing from the Riva we steam along the canal Orfano, the legendary
scene of the slaughter of the Franks and pass the islands of S. Servolo
(now the lunatic asylum), S. Lazzaro with the Armenian convent and
printing-press, S. Spirito and Poveglia. Beyond the porto of Malamocco
on the lido of Pellestrina, a few hundred yards to the south of S.
Pietro in Volta, stands the little village of Porto Secco on the
filled-up porto of Albiola, where the first stand was made against Pepin
and his host (p. 16). The beautiful lines of the low-lying Euganean
hills have long been in sight, and the richly coloured sails of the
Chioggian fishing craft. We pass the porto of Chioggia and enter the
harbour. It is said that the old Venetians were wont to distinguish each
of the porti by the colour of the water that flowed through: Tre Porti
on the N., which gives on the Torcello and Burano group of islands,
being yellow; S. Erasmo (now filled up), blue; Lido, red; Malamocco,
green; Chioggia, purple. Chioggia, to the jaded sightseer, has the
inestimable advantage of offering nothing of interest save the
descendants of a fine and stalwart race of islanders still retaining
some of their old characteristic traits of costume and language. The
admirable view of Venice as we return in the evening, gradually rising
with her domes and towers from the sea, is not the least delightful part
of a restful and charming excursion.
L’ENVOI
“The word _Venetia_,” says Francesco Sansovino, “is interpreted by some
to mean VENI ETIAM, which is to say, ‘Come again and again’; for how
many times soever thou shalt come, new things and new beauties thou
shalt see.”
APPENDIX I
LIST OF DOGES
Paolo Anafesta, A.D. 697-717.
Marcello Tegaliano, 717-726.
Orso Ipato, 726-737.
Six Mastro Miles, 737-742.
Orso Diodato, 742-755.
Galla Gaulo, 755-756.
Domenico Monegaro, 756-765.
Maurizio Galbaio, 764-787.
Giovanni Galbaio, 787-804.
Obelerio de’ Antenori, 804-809.
Angelo Participazio, 809-827.
Giustiniano Participazio, 827-829.
Giovanni Participazio I., 829-836.
Pietro Tradenico, 836-864.
Orso Participazio I., 864-881.
Giovanni Participazio II., 881-887.
Pietro Candiano I., 887-888.
Pietro Tribuno, 888-912.
Orso Participazio II., 912-932.
Pietro Candiano II., 932-939.
Pietro Participazio, 939-942.
Pietro Candiano III., 942-959.
Pietro Candiano IV., 959-976.
Pietro Orseolo I., 976-977.
Vitali Candiano, 977-978.
Pietro Memo, 978-991.
Pietro Orseolo II., 991-1008.
Otho Orseolo, 1008-1025.
Domenico Centranico, 1026-1032.
Domenico Flabianico, 1032-1043.
Domenico Contarini, 1043-1071.
Domenico Selvo, 1071-1084.
Vitale Falier, 1085-1096.
Vitale Michieli I., 1096-1102.
Ordelafo Falier, 1102-1117.
Domenico Michieli, 1117-1130.
Pietro Polani, 1130-1148.
Domenico Morosini, 1148-1156.
Vitale Michieli II., 1156-1172.
Sebastiano Ziani, 1173-1178.
Orio Malipiero, 1178-1192.
Enrico Dandolo, 1193-1205.
Pietro Ziani, 1205-1229.
Giacomo Tiepolo, 1229-1249.
Marin Morosini, 1249-1252.
Renier Zeno, 1253-1268.
Lorenzo Tiepolo, 1268-1275.
Jacopo Contarini, 1275-1280.
Giovanni Dandolo, 1280-1289.
Pietro Gradenigo, 1289-1311.
Giorgio Marin, 1311-1312.
Giovanni Soranzo, 1312-1328.
Francesco Dandolo, 1329-1339.
Bartolomeo Gradenigo, 1339-1342.
Andrea Dandolo, 1343-1354.
Marin Faliero, 1354-1355.
Giovanni Gradenigo, 1355-1356.
Giovanni Dolfino, 1356-1361.
Lorenzo Celsi, 1361-1365.
Marco Cornaro, 1365-1368.
Andrea Contarini, 1368-1382.
Michele Morosini, 1382.
Antonio Venier, 1382-1400.
Michel Steno, 1400-1413.
Tomaso Mocenigo, 1414-1423.
Francesco Foscari, 1423-1457.
Pasquale Malipiero, 1457-1462.
Cristoforo Moro, 1462-1471.
Nicolo Tron, 1471-1473.
Nicolo Marcello, 1473-1474.
Pietro Mocenigo, 1474-1476.
Andrea Vendramin, 1476-1478.
Giovanni Mocenigo, 1478-1485.
Marco Barbarigo, 1485-1486.
Agostino Barbarigo, 1486-1501.
Leonardo Loredano, 1501-1521.
Antonio Grimani, 1521-1523.
Andrea Gritti, 1523-1539.
Pietro Lando, 1539-1545.
Francesco Donato, 1545-1553.
Marc’antonio Trevisano, 1553-1554.
Francesco Venier, 1554-1556.
Lorenzo Priuli, 1556-1559.
Girolamo Priuli, 1559-1567.
Pietro Loredano, 1567-1570.
Luigi Mocenigo, 1570-1577.
Sebastiano Venier, 1577-1578.
Nicolo da Ponte, 1578-1585.
Pasquale Cicogna, 1585-1595.
Marin Grimani, 1595-1606.
Leonardo Donato, 1606-1612.
Marc’antonio Memo, 1612-1615.
Giovanni Bembo, 1615-1618.
Nicolo Donato, 1618.
Antonio Priuli, 1618-1623.
Francesco Contarini, 1623-1624.
Giovanni Cornare, 1624-1630.
Nicolo Contarini, 1630-1631.
Francesco Erizzo, 1631-1646.
Francesco Molini, 1646-1655.
Carlo Contarini, 1655-1656.
Francesco Cornaro, 1656.
Bertuccio Valieri, 1656-1658.
Giovanni Pesaro, 1658-1659.
Domenico Contarini, 1659-1674.
Nicolo Sagredo, 1674-1676.
Luigi Contarini, 1676-1683.
Marc’antonio Giustiniani, 1683-1688.
Francesco Morosini, 1688-1694.
Silvestre Valier, 1694-1700.
Luigi Mocenigo, 1700-1709.
Giovanni Cornaro, 1709-1722.
Sebastiano Mocenigo, 1722-1732.
Carlo Ruzzini, 1732-1735.
Luigi Pisani, 1735-1741.
Pietro Grimani, 1741-1752.
Francesco Loredano, 1752-1762.
Marco Foscarini, 1762-1763.
Luigi Mocenigo, 1763-1779.
Paolo Renier, 1779-1789.
Ludovico Manin, 1789-1797.
APPENDIX II
BIBLIOGRAPHY
_General Histories._
BROWN, H. R. F.--“Venice: A Historical Sketch of the Republic.” London.
1893.
“Venice” in the Cambridge Modern History. Vol. i.
Cambridge. 1902.
“The Venetian Republic.” Temple Primers.
London. 1902.
DARU, P.--“Histoire de la République de Venise.” 8 Vols. Paris. 1821.
FILIASI, G.--“Memorie storiche dei Veneti.” 7 Vols. Padua. 1811-14.
FOUGASSES, T. DE--“Generall Historie of the Magnificent State of
Venice.” Translated by Shute, W. London. 1612.
HAZLITT, W. C.--“The Venetian Republic.” 2 Vols. London. 1900.
HODGSON, F.--“The Early History of Venice.” London. 1901.
MICHELET, J.--“Histoire de France. Vol. x. 1879.
PEARS, E.--“The Fall of Constantinople.” London. 1885.
ROMANIN, S.--“Storia documentata di Venezia.” 10 Vols. Venice. 1853.
_Chronicles._
ALTINATE, CRONACA, and CANALE, M. DE.--“La Cronica dei Veneziani.
Archivio Storico Italiano.” Vol. viii. Florence. 1842.
COMINES, P. DE.--“Les Mémoires.” Lyons. 1559.
MALIPIERO, D.--“Annali Veneti. Archivio Storico Italiano.” Vol. vii.
Florence. 1842.
ROMUALDI II.--“Archiepiscopo Salernatini Chronicon. Muratori.” Rer.
Ital. Script. Vol. vii.
SANUDO, M.--“Diarii di.” (In course of publication.) Venice. 1879-1902.
” “Vite de’ Duchi de Venezia.” Muratori. Rer. Ital. Script.
Vol. xxii.
” “Ragguali sulla Vita e sulle Opere di.” Brown, R. 2
Vols. Venice. 1837.
“Venetian Calendar of State Papers.” 10 Vols. London. 1864-1900.
VILLEHARDOUIN, G. DE.--“La Conquête de Constantinople.” Edited by
Bouchet, E. 2 Vols. Paris. 1891.
_Art._
“Architecture, Dictionary of.” London. 1892.
BERENSON, B.--“Lorenzo Lotto.” London. 1901.
” “Study and Criticism of Italian Art.” London. 1901.
” “Venetian Painters of the Renaissance.” London. 1899.
BURCKHARDT, J.--“Der Cicerone.” Edited by Bode, W. 2 Vols. Leipzig.
1884.
CROWE and CAVALCASELLE.--“A History of Painting in N. Italy.” 2 Vols.
London. 1871.
” “ “Life and Times of Titian.” 2 Vols.
London. 1881.
JAMESON, Mrs.--“Sacred and Legendary Art.” 2 Vols. London. 1890.
KUGLER.--“Handbook of Painting.” Edited by Layard, A. H. London. 1887.
LAFENESTRE, G.--“La Peinture en Europe--Venise.” Paris.
LEVI, C. A.--“I Campanili.” Venice. 1870.
LUDWIG, G.--“Jahrbuch der königlich-preussichen Kunstsammlungen.” Vols.
xxii. and xxiii. Berlin. 1901-1902.
MELANI, A.--“Architettura italiana.” Milan. 4a edizione.
MORELLI, G.--“Italian Masters in German Galleries.” Translated by
Richter, L. M. London. 1883.
MORELLI, G.--“Italian Painters.” Translated by Foulkes, C. F. London.
1892.
PAOLETTI, P.--“Catalogo delle R. R. Gallerie di Venezia.” Venice. 1903.
RUSKIN, J.--“The Stones of Venice.” 3 Vols. Orpington. 1886.
“ “St Mark’s Rest.” 1 Vol. Orpington. 1884.
“ “A Guide to the Principal Pictures in the Academy of Fine
Arts at Venice.” Venice. 1887.
SACCARDO, P.--“Les Mosaïques de S. Marc à Venise.” Venice. 1897.
SANSOVINO, F.--“Venezia Città nobilissima.” Venice. 1580.
VASARI, G.--“Le Vite dei più excellenti Pittori,” etc. Edited by
Milanesi, G. 1878.
“ “Lives,” etc. Translated by Hinds, A. B. Temple
Classics. London. 1900.
ZANOTTO, F.--“Il Palazzo ducale.” Venice. 1841-61.
WOODS, J.--“Letters of an Architect.” Vol. i. London. 1828.
_Miscellaneous._
BROWN, H. R. F.--“Life in the Lagoons.” London. 1900.
CENTELLI, A.--“Caterina Cornare e il suo Regno.” Venice. 1892.
CORONELLI, P.--“Armi Blasoni,” etc. Venice. 1700.
DIDOT, F.--“Aide Manuce.” Paris. 1875.
GOZZI, C.--“Memoirs.” Translated by J. A. Symonds. 1889.
HOWELL, J.--“Familiar Letters.” Temple Classics. London. 1903.
MIDDLETON, J. H., and YRIATE, C.--“Venice”; Encyclopædia Britannica.
1888.
MOLMENTI, P.--“Calli e Canali di Venezia.” Venice. 1890.
“ “Venezia: Nuovi Studi di Storia e d’ Arte.” Florence.
1897.
“ “Studi e Ricerche di Storia e d’ Arte.” Turin. 1892.
MORYSON, FYNES.--“Itinerary.” London. 1617.
ROBERTSON, A.--“The Bible of St Mark.” London. 1898.
SYMONDS, J. A.--“Bergamo and Bart. Colleoni: Sketches and Studies in
Southern Europe.” Vol. ii. New York. 1880.
TASSINI, A.--“Curiosità Veneziane.” Venice. 1897.
VORAGINE, J. DE--“The Golden Legend.” Englished by William Caxton.
Temple Classics. London. 1900.
YRIATE, C.--“La Vie d’un Patricien de Venise.” Venice. 1886.
ZANOTTO, F.--“I Pozzi ed i Piombi, antiche Prigioni di Stato della
Repubblica di Venezia.” Venice. 1876.
INDEX
A
Accademia, 252-263
Albiola, porto of, 16, 323
Aldine Press, site of, 296
Aristocracy, their growing power, 74
Arsenal, the, 292
---- foundation of, 41
B
Bajamonte Conspiracy, 107-109
Barbarossa and Pope Alexander, 48
Boccaccio at Venice, 291
Bocche di Leoni, 248, 292
Bovolo, il, 296
Brides of St Mark, story of, 23
Brienne, John of, Latin Emperor of the East, 75
Brienne, Walter of, his defection, 59
Bronze Horses, from Constantinople, 68
Bucintoro, 53, 78
C
Cabinet, the, 102
Cabot, Sebastiano, and the Ten, 172
Cambrai, League of, 146, 156, 165-167
Cambrai, peace of, 170-172
Campanile, the, 22, 44
---- fall of, 219
Canal, Grand, 263-275
Cape route, discovery of, 159
_Capi_ of the Ten, 110, 112, note
Cappello, Bianca, 286, note
Carlo Zeno, 130, 137
Carmagnola, his strategy, 142, 143
---- capture and execution, 143, 144
Carraras, the, 118, 119, 136, 137
Cassiodorus, letter of, to the _Tribuni Maritimi_, 6
Castle of Love at Treviso, 72
Charlemagne defeats the Lombards, 11
Chioggia, 322
---- relief of, 134
---- war of, 131
Cobblers’ Guildhall, 308
“Cobden Madonna,” 93, 251
Colleoni, statue of, 280
Columns of St Mark and St Theodore, raising of, 53
Comines, Philippe de, his impressions of Venice, 160
Comnenian dynasty, 62
Constantinople, first capture of, by Venetians and Franks, 64
Constantinople, second capture and sack of, 67
Corn Office, 93
Cornaro, Caterina, 157, 159
Coronation oath, 55, 74
Council, closing of Great, 101
Cretan war, the, 181-183
Crichton, the Admirable, at Venice, 178
Crociferi, oratory of the, 298
Crown of Thorns pawned, 76
Crusade, fourth, 56-67
Crusades, attitude of Venetians towards, 38
Cyprus, acquisition of, 157, 158
D
Da Canale writes the history of the Venetians in French, 86
---- his description of Venice, 87
---- his description of a ducal election festival, 90
Dalmatia, loss of, 127
---- protectorate of, 29
---- recovery of, 138
Dalmatian pirates, 21, 28
Dante at Venice, 117
Despots, Italian, 118
Dogado, the extent of, 2
Doge, election of first, 8
---- his power and state, 8, 9
---- limitation of powers of, 32, 33
Ducal Council, origin of, 33
Ducal Palace, 17, 241-251
Ducat of gold first coined, 95
E
East, conquests of Venetians in the, 68
Eccelino da Romano, death of, and rejoicings at Venice, 86
Election of Doge, complicated machinery for, 88
English goods branded at Venice, 105
English knights at Venice, 128
---- soldiers in Venetian service, their prowess, 136
Erasmus at Venice, 213
F
Factions, aristocratic (Heraclia) and democratic (Malamocco), 9, 10, 12, 13
Factions, Caloprini and Orseoli, 28
---- Nicolotti and Castellani, 305
Faliero, Marin, his house, 298
---- his victory at Zara and embassy to Genoa, 122
Faliero, Marin, treason and execution of, 124, 126
Ferrara, defeat of Venetians at, 107
---- siege of, 77
Festivals at Venice, 184, 185
Fisherman and St Mark, legend of, 120
Fleets, trading, 104
Florence appeals for a Venetian alliance, 141
Foscari, Francesco, his forward policy, 140, 146, 151
Foscari, Francesco, degradation and death, 149, 150
Foscari, Jacopo, his trial, 147, 148
---- his exile and death, 149
Foscarini, Antonio, executed unjustly, 180
Frari, S. Maria Gloriosa dei, 281-284
French, defeat of, at Fornova, 162
Friuli, occupation of, 138
G
Galileo at Padua, 178
Galley, value of cargo of, 104
---- comparative size of, 105
Genoa, defeat of, 82, 85
---- origin of war with, 81
Genoese crushed by Venetians off Lojero, 122
Genoese, defeat of Venetians by, 97
Gesuiti, the, 298
Ghetti, the, 310
Giudecca, island of, 309
Glass-workers, 212, 213
Goethe at Venice, 186, 246
Golden Book, the, 102
Goldoni, 214, note
---- statue of, 293
Grado and Aquileia, jealousy of Patriarchs of, 32
Great Council, origin of, 47
Greek islands, occupation of, 139
Greeks recapture Constantinople, 83
H
Holy Roman Empire, Dante and, 45
Horses at Venice, 291, 293
Hunchback of the Rialto, 302
I
Inquisition, Holy, introduction of, at Venice, 79
Inquisitors of State, 111, 112
---- of the dead Doge, 74
_Interdetto_, conflict of the, 175-177
L
Lagosta, capture of, 29
Lepanto, victory of, 173-175
Libreria Vecchia, 289
Lido, the, 320
Lighting of streets, 44
Lombard invaders, 3, 4
Loss and recovery of mainland provinces, 167-169
M
Mainland, aggrandisement on, 106
---- war policy on, 119
Malamocco, Old, where situated, 15, note
Manuel, orders spoliation of Venetian traders at Constantinople, 46
Marco Polo, his travels, 98
---- joins Venetian fleet, and is taken prisoner at Curzola, 99
Marco Polo, site of his house, 99, 293
Merceria, the, 218
Mocenigo, Tomaso, his wise counsel, 140, 141
Morea, the loss of, 153, 183
Murano, 316
Murzuphles, his _coup d’état_ at Constantinople, 66
Museo Civico, 303, 304
N
Normans, conflicts with, 35
O
Oligarchy, rise of, 100
Olivolo becomes Castello, 22
Oselle, 303, note
Othello, Rawdon Brown’s identification of, 153, note
Otho II., his preparation to crush Venice, and death, 28
P
Padua, occupation of, 187
Painters, Venetian, 195-212
Palazzo Giovanelli, 300
---- Labia, 310
Papal States, occupation of, by Venice, 164
Paradiso, calle and Ponte di, 276
Pepin, attack on Venetians by, 14, 15, 16
Petrarch at Venice, 123, 127, 129
Petrarch, his house at Venice, 291
Piazza, the, 219-222
Piombi, Pozzi and, 115, 116
Pisani, Victor, his release and triumph, 132
Plague, the, at Venice, 183
Ponte dei Pugni, 305
Pope Alexander III., his legendary resting-place, 308
Porti, their traditional colours, 323
Possessions on mainland, 146, 156
Prince in pawn, a, 83
Printers, 213, 214
Prisons, their position, 115
Privy Council, the, 102
Providence, the vote of, 71
R
Rialto, foundation of united Venetians at, 16
RIALTO, the, 301
S
SS. Apostoli, 298
S. Cassiano, 302
S. Caterina, 299
S. Elena, 321
S. Francesco del Deserto, 319
---- della Vigna, 288
St Francis at Venice, 73
---- and Walter of Brienne, 59
S. Giacomo dall’ Orio, 304
---- di Rialto, 301
S. Giobbe, 310
S. Giorgio Maggiore, 274, 309
S. Giovanni in Bragora, 291
---- Grisostomo, 294
---- Elemosinario, 302
St Louis and the Crown of Thorns, 76
S. Maria del Carmine, 307
---- Formosa, 276
---- Mater Domini, 302
---- dei Miracoli, 280
---- dell’ Orto, 299
---- agli Scalzi, 313
St Mark, Basilica of, 20, 27, 222-241
---- fisherman and, 121
---- legends of, 17, 18, 19
---- rediscovery of body of, 36, 37
S. Marco, Scuola di, 280
S. Martino, 292
S. Marziale, 299
S. Moisè, 295
St Nicholas, capture of body of, 39
S. Nicolo del Lido, 321
S. Pantaleone, 308
S. Polo, 308
S. Rocco, Church of, 286
---- Scuola di, 285
---- story of, 284
S. Salvatore, 293
S. Sebastiano, 306
S. Stefano, 295
St Tarasius, rape of the body of, 31
St Theodore, Church of, 7
S. Trovaso, 309
S. Vio, 296
S. Vitale, 296
S. Zaccaria, 286
S. Zanipolo, 276-279
---- legend of foundation of, 78
S. Zulian, 275
Salinguerra, his memorial, 321
Salute, the, 297
Sarpi, Paolo, death of, 178
Scalas, the, 118, 119, 136
Schiavoni, Riva degli, 290
---- S. Giorgio degli, 287
Sculpture, Venetian, 187-195
Seminario, the, 297
Senate, origin of, 33
---- the, 102
Shrine at Calle Barbaro, 296
Signory, the, 102
Slave trade at Venice, 12, 21, 26
Spanish plot, 179
Steno, Michel, his insult to Faliero, 124
Street nomenclature, 216
T
Tagliapietra, Contessa, legend of, 296
Ten, attack on the, 180
---- Council of the, 109-111
Titian’s house, site of, 315
Torcello, 5, 318
---- final migration to, 4
Trading privileges, extension of, 36, 40, 42
Tribunes, their first election, 6
_Tribuni majores_, election of, 7
Turkish conquests, 173
---- terror at Venice, 152, 154, 155
---- capture of Constantinople, 151, 153
Tyre, capture of, 43
V
Venetian fleet, destruction of, by Genoese, 130
Venetian settlements, the earliest, 4
Venetians defeated by Genoese off Pera, 122
---- defeated by Turks off Sapienza, 163
---- routed by Genoese off Sapienza, 124
---- their master passions, 68
Venice, excommunication of, 106, 156, 167, 176
---- her fortitude under disaster, 124, 130
---- her popularity on the mainland, 120, 146
---- invites the King of France to Italy, 156
---- occupied by the French, 186
Verona, occupation of, 137
Visconti, Galeozzo, 136
---- Filippo, 140
W
Wedding of the Adriatic, 29, 50, 53
Z
Zara, capture of, by Crusaders, 61
---- rebellion of, 117, 121
Zattere, fondamenta delle, 309
* * * * *
Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber:
Palazza Ducale=> Palazzo Ducale {pg xi}
Vie de St Francois=> Vie de St François {pg 73}
who rode to seek aventure=> who rode to seek adventure {pg 92}
answer Ghisello=> answered Ghisello {pg 125}
envoys empty away=> envoys away empty {pg 154}
reign that the ast=> reign that the last {pg 155}
The chief atttraction=> The chief attraction {pg 255}
Cornara, Caterina, 157, 159=> Cornaro, Caterina, 157, 159 {pg 328}
* * * * *
FOOTNOTES:
[1] See Appendix II. An exhaustive bibliography will be found in “The
Cambridge Modern History,” Vol. I.
[2] Rimini, Pesaro, Fano, Sinigaglia and Ancona.
[3] A method of disposing of a political enemy, so common in Italy, in
the middle ages, that it was expressed by a word _abbacinare_, from the
_bacino_ or red hot basin of brass fixed before the eyes of the victim.
[4] See “Archæologia,” vol. xliv. p. 128. This curious inscription
purports to have been interpreted in 1202 by Marin Dandolo, Procurator
of St Mark, from the Latin of an old and decayed parchment written by
Orso Hypato of Heraclea.
[5] So late as 1428 a Russian female slave was sold by one friar to
another for 52 sequins, with “right to dispose of her body and soul in
perpetuity.” The contract is quoted by Filiasi. In 1492 a Saracen slave,
15 years old, fetched 25 sequins.
[6] The original Malamocco, destroyed by flood in the twelfth century,
was a fortified place girt with walls and towers, whose precise locality
is not now known. It was situated on the open Adriatic, not far from the
present Malamocco. Filiasi, writing about 1800, says the ruins used to
be seen at low tide about a good stone’s throw from the _lido_.
[7] The Greek Emperor at Constantinople.
[8] Pietro in his two years of office could have done little more than
repair the old St Mark’s. Recent researches have proved that the present
structure was begun in 1061 under Doge Contarini. Part of the ducal
palace was pulled down to extend the basilica southwards, and part of
the Church of St Theodore incorporated on the north. When the wall which
separated the Chapel of St Isidore from the north transept was stripped
of its marble casing in 1887 it showed a bare surface of brick blackened
by exposure to the weather and one of the windows which lighted the
north aisle of old St Theodore’s.
[9] In 1456 the See of Castello and the Patriarchate of Grado were
united, and S. Lorenzo Giustiniano was made first Patriarch of Venice.
[10] Writing about 1500-1520.
[11] The memorable triumph of the Papacy when the Emperor was made to
stand barefoot in the bitter January cold outside the castle of Canossa
for three days before Pope Gregory VII. would admit and absolve him.
[12] Two-thirds of the people were said to have perished.
[13] As in the arsenal of the Venetians, the sticky pitch boils in
winter to daub their leaky ships which they cannot sail, and instead,
one builds his ship anew, another caulks the ribs of that which many
voyages hath made. One hammers at the prow and one at the poop: another
makes oars: another twists the ropes: another mends the jib and
mainsail.--“Inferno,” xxi. 7-15.
[14] The Emperor complained much of the mosquitoes and other less
volatile vermin at Chioggia. Dare we assume that these irritants were
not without effect in hastening the conclusion?
[15] “_Ante cujus atrium._” The scene is described by the Archbishop of
Salerno who was present. See “Muratori, Rer. Ital.,” Scrip. vii.
[16] A similar story is however told of the raising of the great obelisk
at Rome.
[17] Actually one is of red, the other of grey marble.
[18] It was to join the standard of this renowned knight that St
Francis, fired by stories of his prowess, set forth in 1204 and saw at
Spoleto that vision which determined him to return to Assisi and devote
himself to the service of another Lord.
[19] See “The Fall of Constantinople,” by Edwin Pears, p. 263. This
allegation is, however, much canvassed by authorities.
[20] The alleged blindness of Dandolo is one of the enigmas of history.
The chroniclers are hopelessly at variance. Villehardouin, his constant
associate, says he _ne voit goutte_ (couldn’t see a bit). Others ignore
the blindness, and it is difficult to explain his career on that theory.
[21] Probably from his attempt to convert the Sultan in 1219-1220. See
Sabatier’s “Vie de St François, p. 271.” The story of the birds is
obviously an echo of the _Fioretti_.
[22] Experts in heresy.
[23] According to the archives of the Holy Office only six cases are
found of the death penalty, drowning or strangling (never burning),
being inflicted for heresy in Venice.
[24] Hollow balls of wax were first used, afterwards the thirty were
made of gold and the others of silver.
[25] “Christ conquereth; Christ reigneth; Christ ruleth. Salvation,
honour, long life and victory to our lord, Lorenzo Tiepolo, by the grace
of God renowned Doge of Venice, Dalmatia and Croatia, Dominator of
one-fourth and a half of the Empire of Romania. O St Mark, lend him
thine aid!”
[26] Purgatorio, iii. 115.
[27] The details of the victory are inscribed in St Matthew’s, the
private church of the Doria family, at Genoa. Hapless Dandolo, rather
than figure in a Genoese triumph, dashed out his brains against the mast
of the ship that bore him away.
[28] The supreme legal authority.
[29] Birdwood, Report on the old records of the India Office.
[30] The value of a ducat is estimated by Col. Yule at about 9s. 6d. of
English money.
[31] The tune sung by sailors to-day as they lift the anchor is the same
as that sung a thousand years ago by the Venetians as they manned their
oars or spread their sails.
[32] Lindsay’s “History of Merchant Shipping.”
[33] The name adopted by the Participazii at the end of the ninth
century.
[34] “And a certain woman cast a piece of a millstone upon Abimelech’s
head, and all to brake his skull.”--JUDGES ix. 53.
[35] The Quirini house is now incorporated in the new Fish Market.
[36] The column is now in the Museo Civico.
[37] The Ten could act promptly too. In 1484, one of the _Capi_ crossing
the Piazza saw a priest and two soldiers set upon a man with drawn
weapons. He ordered their arrest. The same evening the three were hanged
by torchlight between the columns.
[38] I pozzi e i piombi. Venice, 1876.
[39] Not the present _Scala dei Giganti_, built two centuries later in a
different position.
[40] “_I’vo gridando pace, pace, pace!_” _Canzone all’Italia._
[41] The hero’s statue and a Latin inscription from his tomb in the
demolished church of S. Antonio are now in the Museum of the Arsenal.
[42] By an unhappy misprint (_ne_ for _non_) in Muratori’s ed. of Sanudo
Morosini has been grievously calumniated and accused of speculating on
his country’s misfortune. See Romanin, iii., p. 310, and Muratori,
_Rerum Ital. Scriptores_, xxii. 743.
[43] The last of the Scalas died a few years ago, a poor cobbler, at
Verona.
[44] The ordinary method of putting to the “question” was to tie the
victim’s hands behind him and swing him by the wrists over a pulley.
[45] Sanudo gives the population in 1422 as 190,000 souls, about equal
to that of Cardiff to-day.
[46] In 1347, a Flanders galley, after a voyage of eight months and
seven days, made a profit of 10,000 ducats.
[47] In the reign of Francesco Dandolo.
[48] The Doge uses the familiar _tu_: Jacopo the formal _voi_.
[49] Ruskin, by a curious misunderstanding of Rawdon Brown, has confused
this Doge (who, according to a contemporary was a short-statured
squint-eyed creature) with the original of Shakespeare’s “Othello,” and
the error has since been repeated. Rawdon Brown’s ingenious
identification of the Moor of Venice with one Cristoforo Moro, refers to
another Venetian of that name who lived a generation later and was a
prominent official in the service of the Republic during the wars of the
League of Cambrai. _Cf._ Ruskin, “Stones of Venice,” vol. ii. p. 302,
note, with Rawdon Brown’s “Ragguali sulla vita e sulle opere di M.
Sanuto,” Parte I. pp. 229-235.
[50] Met to deal with the situation created by the attempt of the famous
Venetian Condottiero Colleoni to win the duchy of Milan in collusion
with the Florentine exiles.
[51] In 1483 the Flanders galleys were attacked by a famous Spanish
privateer; 130 Venetians were killed, 300 wounded, and an enormous booty
was taken. The Signory demanded satisfaction from the Emperor Charles
VII., which was refused on the plea that Venice was under the ban of the
Church. A certain Christopher Columbus was serving among the Spaniards.
[52] The firm, resolute features of this grand old Pontiff look out to
us from Raphael’s portrait of him in the National Gallery of London.
[53] Our own Henry VIII. was an important piece in the game. “You are
all rascals” (_ribaldi_), exclaimed Pope Julius II. to the English
ambassador in 1510.
[54] The words of this oft-misquoted phrase are: “_De toutes choses ne
n’est demeuré que l’honneur et la vie qui est sauve._”
[55] Sir Thomas More was the English envoy.
[56] Girolamo Diedo’s story of the famous battle is published in the
_Biblioteca Diamante_, for twenty _centesimi_ (twopence).
[57] By the interdict the Venetian clergy were forbidden to exercise any
of the functions of the Church. By excommunication the Government and
citizens of Venice were excluded from the communion of the faithful.
[58] Sir Henry Wotton told the Doge that the blow was struck by a
Scotchman, who used to hang about the English embassy.
[59] The writer of the “History of the Council of Trent” is placed by
Ranke second to Macchaevelli alone as an Italian historian. Mazzini, in
an essay published in vol. iv. of his collected works, claims that Sarpi
was the real discoverer of the circulation of the blood.
[60] So indelible an impression was made by the long struggle on the
popular mind, that the locution, a _vera guerra di Candia_, to express
bitter personal enmity was common in Byron’s time.
[61] The incidents of this, a nobler chapter than any of the foregoing
in Venetian history, may be read in Mr Bolton King’s “History of United
Italy,” 2 vols., Nisbet, 1899.
[62] Macigno is a hard sandstone.
[63] Later researches have brought into prominence the name of Pietro
Basseggio, who is now believed to have designed the earlier S. façade of
the Palace.
[64] Il Palazzo Ducale di Venezia.
[65] In early times architecture, sculpture, and engineering were
branches of the same profession. Michel Angelo worked for six months at
San Miniato on the fortifications of Florence.
[66] _Arch. Stor. Ital._ vol. vii. p. 674.
[67] Now assigned to Marc’ Antonio Gambello and Moro Coducci.
[68] The present façade is the result of alterations by Scamozzi in
1610.
[69] See Plate 72 in the Dream of Poliphilus, called the
Hypnerotomachia, published in Venice by Aldus, 1499, reproduced by the
Science and Art Department, South Kensington, 1888.
[70] See Berenson’s “Lorenzo Lotto,” chap. ii., sec. vii., revised ed.,
1901.
[71] The Pietà, and the Transfiguration in the Correr Museum.
[72] The ivy-leaved toadflax.
[73] It has again been exalted to a prominent position in Room X.
[74] Morelli, however, classes it among Titian’s early productions.
[75] See “XIXth Century and After,” 1902, p. 156, where H. Cook gives
reasons for believing the painter to have been but 86 years of age at
his death in 1576.
[76] Morelli, _Italian Masters in German Galleries_, translated by Mrs
Richter, pp. 184-94.
[77] _Jahrbuch der Königlich Preussischen Kunstsammlungen._ Berlin,
vols. xxii. and xxiii., 1901-1902.
[78] “Marietta or the Maid of Venice.”
[79] Goldoni’s grandfather was a native of Modena: _Il Burbero Benefico_
was first performed at Paris and subsequently translated into Italian.
[80] Now assigned to Moro Coducci of Bergamo.
[81] The Ducal Palace is not built on piles, but rests on a stratum of
stiff clay.
[82] Sanudo.
[83] _Italiæ brevis Descriptio_, Ultrajecti, 1650.
[84] “Letters of an Architect from France, Italy and Greece,” by Joseph
Woods, 1828, vol. i., p. 256, _et seq._
[85] Unhappily most of the old Greek marbles have been replaced by
inferior Carrara. It was once proposed by the restorers to varnish and
smoke the S. façade, to imitate the rich colours which the mellowing
effect of time has given to the original incrustations.
[86] Left of the spectator.
[87] No. 567 in the Accademia.
[88] The traveller who is acquainted with Burne-Jones’ Days of Creation
will note the influence of these mosaics on the English master’s work.
[89] In 1682 the slab of this tomb was accidentally discovered embedded
in the wall of the Ducal Palace. In 1810 the French ordered the carving
to be defaced, but the mason evaded the command by setting the stone
face downwards, and in 1839 Rawdon Brown secured it and sent it to
England.
[90] The figure may still be discerned in the great mosque when the
light is favourable.
[91] “Devastated,” says Saccardo.
[92] Reproduced in Parker’s “Introduction to Gothic Architecture,” ninth
Edition, p. 296.
[93] During the excavations made in 1903 round the foundations of the
fallen Campanile the old brick paving was clearly seen.
[94] On free days the entrance is by the farther Scala dei Censori.
[95] “The most terrific brain that ever applied itself to painting”
(Vasari).
[96] (1) The Carità, (2) S. Giovanni Evangelista, (3) The Misericordia,
(4) S. Marco, (5) S. Rocco, (6) S. Teodoro.
[97] Four pictures were painted for the Guild of St Mark. Two, the
Carrying of the Body of St Mark from Alexandria, and St Mark saving a
Saracen, are in the Royal Palace of Venice; the fourth is in the Brera
at Milan.
[98] Said in the official catalogue to represent Henry VIII. and Anne
Boleyn respectively!
[99] 283, SS. Mark and Vincent, is interesting from the fact that the
latter saint was originally the beardless St Lawrence, which was painted
over by Tintoretto to represent a full-bearded magistrate, and became St
Vincent. The original painting was by Michele Parrhasio, a wealthy
dilettante working in Bonifazio’s atelier, who used to treat his critics
to sweets and wine.
[100] Now promoted to Room X.
[101] _Quando del ver si sogna_ (when dreams are true).--INFERNO, xxvi.
7.
[102] The eminent critic and scholar, 1706-78.
[103] More probably Vice or Slander.
[104] We retain the modern appellation. The old Venetians were content
with Ca’ (Casa) House.
[105] See _Venezia: Nuovi Studi_, etc., p. 37, by P. Molmenti.
[106] Grave reasons for doubting whether Bruno suffered death by order
of the Inquisition have, however, been adduced by Théophile Desdouits,
who believes the whole story to be a fabrication. See _La Légende
tragique de Jordano Bruno_, 1885.
[107] Date of death.
[108] As in Jacopo Pesaro’s tomb in the Frari.
[109] A rich heiress who, when fifteen years of age, eloped to Florence
with a poor bookkeeper and married him. She there became the mistress,
then the wife, of Francesco de’ Medici, Duke of Tuscany, who was
implicated in the assassination of her first husband. Notwithstanding
her scandalous past and condemnation by the laws of Venice, the Signory,
on her second marriage, took her under their protection for political
reasons, and proclaimed her the “true and particular daughter of the
Republic.” She and the Grand Duke died within a day of each other in
1587, not without suspicion of poison. The Ca’ Trevisan was bought by
Bianca in 1577, and given to her brother, Vittore Cappello. Francesco
Sansovino dedicated his _Venezia Città Nobilissima_ to her.
[110] The widening was effected at the end of the eighteenth century.
[111] “Hoc circa templum sit jus mercatoribus aequm: pondera ne vergant
nec sit conventio prava.”
[112] It was the custom of the early Doges to make a coronation present
of wild ducks to each of the nobles in Venice. Owing to the difficulty
of finding sufficient game in the lagoons Doge Celsi in 1361 gave a sum
of money instead. In 1521 the number of recipients had so increased that
the Grand Council permitted Doge Ant. Grimani to substitute a silver
medal which was called an _osella_, the Venetian for bird. The custom
survived till the end of the Republic.
[113] In the sixteenth century a catalogue was published _de tutte le
principali e più onorate cortigiane de Venetia_.
[114] How wayward are Ruskin’s judgments at times may be illustrated by
this poor work on which he lavishes the most ecstatic eulogy in the
“Shrine of the Slaves,” p. 38, where it is referred to as the finest
picture in the world, superior even to the Bellinis in the Frari and in
S. Zaccaria.
[115] From Franc. Sansovino’s description of it as being reputed a jewel
rather than a stone.
[116] The factions were formally reconciled in 1848.
[117] Now hidden by workmen’s dwellings.
[118] _Italiae brevis descriptio._ Ultrajecti, 1650.
[119] Painted in Walter Crane’s “Bridge of Life.”
[120] In primitive times the bishop sat in the centre of the apse facing
the congregation, just as the judge had done in the law-courts, which
served as models for the first Christian churches.
[121] _Italiæ Brevis Descriptio._
[122] The walk may be shortened by taking the direct steamer to S.
Nicolo which leaves the Riva hourly.
[123] See Browning’s “Sordello,” _passim_.