THE DELMONICO OF THE WEST

Colonel Marmaduke Ruggles of London and Paris, for the past

two months a social favourite in Red Gap’s select North Side

set, has decided to cast his lot among us and will henceforth

be reckoned as one of our leading business men. The plan of

the Colonel is nothing less than to give Red Gap a truly élite

and recherché restaurant after the best models of London and

Paris, to which purpose he will devote a considerable portion

of his ample means. The establishment will occupy the roomy

corner store of the Pettengill block, and orders have already

been placed for its decoration and furnishing, which will be

sumptuous beyond anything yet seen in our thriving metropolis.

In speaking of his enterprise yesterday, the Colonel remarked,

with a sly twinkle in his eye, “Demosthenes was the son of a

cutler, Cromwell’s father was a brewer, your General Grant was

a tanner, and a Mr. Garfield, who held, I gather, an important

post in your government, was once employed on a canal-ship, so

I trust that in this land of equality it will not be presumptuous

on my part to seek to become the managing owner of a restaurant

that will be a credit to the fastest growing town in the state.

“You Americans have,” continued the Colonel in his dry, inimitable

manner, “a bewildering variety of foodstuffs, but I trust I may

be forgiven for saying that you have used too little constructive

imagination in the cooking of it. In the one matter of tea,

for example, I have been obliged to figure in some episodes

that were profoundly regrettable. Again, amid the profusion of

fresh vegetables and meats, you are becoming a nation of tinned

food eaters, or canned food as you prefer to call it. This,

I need hardly say, adds to your cost of living and also makes

you liable to one of the most dreaded of modern diseases, a

disease whose rise can be traced to the rise of the tinned-food

industry. Your tin openers rasp into the tin with the result

that a fine sawdust of metal must drop into the contents and

so enter the human system. The result is perhaps negligible in

a large majority of cases, but that it is not universally so

is proved by the prevalence of appendicitis. Not orange or

grape pips, as was so long believed, but the deadly fine rain

of metal shavings must be held responsible for this scourge.

I need hardly say that at the United States Grill no tinned

food will be used.”

This latest discovery of the Colonel’s is important if true.

Be that as it may, his restaurant will fill a long-felt want,

and will doubtless prove to be an important factor in the social

gayeties of our smart set. Due notice of its opening will be

given in the news and doubtless in the advertising columns of

this journal.

Again I was brought to marvel at a peculiarity of the American press,

a certain childish eagerness for marvels and grotesque wonders. I had

given but passing thought to my remarks about appendicitis and its

relation to the American tinned-food habit, nor, on reading the chap’s

screed, did they impress me as being fraught with vital interest to

thinking people; in truth, I was more concerned with the comparison of

myself to a restaurateur of the crude new city of New York, which

might belittle rather than distinguish me, I suspected. But what was

my astonishment to perceive in the course of a few days that I had

created rather a sensation, with attending newspaper publicity which,

although bizarre enough, I am bound to say contributed not a little to

the consideration in which I afterward came to be held by the more

serious-minded persons of Red Gap.

Busied with the multitude of details attending my installation, I was

called upon by another press chap, representing a Spokane sheet, who

wished me to elaborate my views concerning the most probable cause of

appendicitis, which I found myself able to do with some eloquence,

reciting among other details that even though the metal dust might be

of an almost microscopic fineness, it could still do a mischief to

one’s appendix. The press chap appeared wholly receptive to my views,

and, after securing details of my plan to smarten Red Gap with a

restaurant of real distinction, he asked so civilly for a photographic

portrait of myself that I was unable to refuse him. The thing was a

snap taken of me one morning at Chaynes-Wotten by Higgins, the butler,

as I stood by his lordship’s saddle mare. It was not by any means the

best likeness I have had, but there was a rather effective bit of

background disclosing the driveway and the façade of the East Wing.

This episode I had well-nigh forgotten when on the following Sunday I

found the thing emblazoned across a page of the Spokane sheet under a

shrieking headline: “Can Opener Blamed for Appendicitis.” A secondary

heading ran, “Famous British Sportsman and Bon Vivant Advances Novel

Theory.” Accompanying this was a print of the photograph entitled,

“Colonel Marmaduke Ruggles with His Favourite Hunter, at His English

Country Seat.”

Although the article made suitable reference to myself and my

enterprise, it was devoted chiefly to a discussion of my tin-opening

theory and was supplemented by a rather snarky statement signed by a

physician declaring it to be nonsense. I thought the fellow might have

chosen his words with more care, but again dismissed the matter from

my mind. Yet this was not to be the last of it. In due time came a New

York sheet with a most extraordinary page. “Titled Englishman Learns

Cause of Appendicitis,” read the heading in large, muddy type. Below

was the photograph of myself, now entitled, “Sir Marmaduke Ruggles and

His Favourite Hunter.” But this was only one of the illustrations.

From the upper right-hand corner a gigantic hand wielding a tin-opener

rained a voluminous spray of metal, presumably, upon a cowering wretch

in the lower left-hand corner, who was quite plainly all in. There

were tables of statistics showing the increase, side by side of

appendicitis and the tinned-food industry, a matter to which I had

devoted, said the print, years of research before announcing my

discovery. Followed statements from half a dozen distinguished

surgeons, each signed autographically, all but one rather bluntly

disagreeing with me, insisting that the tin-opener cuts cleanly and,

if not man’s best friend, should at least be considered one of the

triumphs of civilization. The only exception announced that he was at

present conducting laboratory experiments with a view to testing my

theory and would disclose his results in due time. Meantime, he

counselled the public to be not unduly alarmed.

Of the further flood of these screeds, which continued for the better

part of a year, I need not speak. They ran the gamut from serious

leaders in medical journals to paid ridicule of my theory in

advertisements printed by the food-tinning persons, and I have to

admit that in the end the public returned to a full confidence in its

tinned foods. But that is beside the point, which was that Red Gap had

become intensely interested in the United States Grill, and to this I

was not averse, though I would rather I had been regarded as one of

their plain, common sort, instead of the fictitious Colonel which

Cousin Egbert’s well-meaning stupidity had foisted upon the town. The

“Sir Marmaduke Ruggles and His Favourite Hunter” had been especially

repugnant to my finer taste, particularly as it was seized upon by the

cheap one-and-six fellow Hobbs for some of his coarsest humour, he

more than once referring to that detestable cur of Mrs. Judson’s, who

had quickly resumed his allegiance to me, as my “hunting pack.”

The other tradesmen of the town, I am bound to say, exhibited a

friendly interest in my venture which was always welcome and often

helpful. Even one of my competitors showed himself to be a dead sport

by coming to me from time to time with hints and advice. He was an

entirely worthy person who advertised his restaurant as “Bert’s

Place.” “Go to Bert’s Place for a Square Meal,” was his favoured line

in the public prints. He, also, I regret to say, made a practice of

displaying cooked foods in his show-window, the window carrying the

line in enamelled letters, “Tables Reserved for Ladies.”

Of course between such an establishment and my own there could be

little in common, and I was obliged to reject a placard which he

offered me, reading, “No Checks Cashed. This Means You!” although he

and Cousin Egbert warmly advised that I display it in a conspicuous

place. “Some of them dead beats in the North Side set will put you

sideways if you don’t,” warned the latter, but I held firmly to the

line of quiet refinement which I had laid down, and explained that I

could allow no such inconsiderate mention of money to be obtruded upon

the notice of my guests. I would devise some subtler protection

against the dead beet-roots.

In the matter of music, however, I was pleased to accept the advice of

Cousin Egbert. “Get one of them musical pianos that you put a nickel

in,” he counselled me, and this I did, together with an assorted

repertoire of selections both classical and popular, the latter

consisting chiefly of the ragging time songs to which the native

Americans perform their folkdances.

And now, as the date of my opening drew near, I began to suspect that

its social values might become a bit complicated. Mrs. Belknap-Jackson,

for example, approached me in confidence to know if she might reserve

all the tables in my establishment for the opening evening, remarking

that it would be as well to put the correct social cachet upon the

place at once, which would be achieved by her inviting only the

desirable people. Though she was all for settling the matter at once,

something prompted me to take it under consideration.

The same evening Mrs. Effie approached me with a similar suggestion,

remarking that she would gladly take it upon herself to see that the

occasion was unmarred by the presence of those one would not care to

meet in one’s own home. Again I was non-committal, somewhat to her

annoyance.

The following morning I was sought by Mrs. Judge Ballard with the

information that much would depend upon my opening, and if the matter

were left entirely in her hands she would be more than glad to insure

its success. Of her, also, I begged a day’s consideration, suspecting

then that I might be compelled to ask these three social leaders to

unite amicably as patronesses of an affair that was bound to have a

supreme social significance. But as I still meditated profoundly over

the complication late that afternoon, overlooking in the meanwhile an

electrician who was busy with my shaded candlesticks, I was surprised

by the self-possessed entrance of the leader of the Bohemian set, the

Klondike person of whom I have spoken. Again I was compelled to

observe that she was quite the most smartly gowned woman in Red Gap,

and that she marvellously knew what to put on her head.

She coolly surveyed my decorations and such of the furnishings as were

in place before addressing me.

“I wish to engage one of your best tables,” she began, “for your

opening night--the tenth, isn’t it?--this large one in the corner will

do nicely. There will be eight of us. Your place really won’t be half

bad, if your food is at all possible.”

The creature spoke with a sublime effrontery, quite as if she had not

helped a few weeks before to ridicule all that was best in Red Gap

society, yet there was that about her which prevented me from rebuking

her even by the faintest shade in my manner. More than this, I

suddenly saw that the Bohemian set would be a factor in my trade which

I could not afford to ignore. While I affected to consider her request

she tapped the toe of a small boot with a correctly rolled umbrella,

lifting her chin rather attractively meanwhile to survey my freshly

done ceiling. I may say here that the effect of her was most

compelling, and I could well understand the bitterness with which the

ladies of the Onwards and Upwards Society had gossiped her to rags.

Incidently, this was the first correctly rolled umbrella, saving my

own, that I had seen in North America.

“I shall be pleased,” I said, “to reserve this table for you--eight

places, I believe you said?”

She left me as a duchess might have. She was that sort. I felt almost

quite unequal to her. And the die was cast. I faced each of the three

ladies who had previously approached me with the declaration that I

was a licensed victualler, bound to serve all who might apply. That

while I was keenly sensitive to the social aspects of my business, it

was yet a business, and I must, therefore, be in supreme control. In

justice to myself I could not exclusively entertain any faction of the

North Side set, nor even the set in its entirety. In each instance, I

added that I could not debar from my tables even such members of the

Bohemian set as conducted themselves in a seemly manner. It was a

difficult situation, calling out all my tact, yet I faced it with a

firmness which was later to react to my advantage in ways I did not

yet dream of.

So engrossed for a month had I been with furnishers, decorators, char

persons, and others that the time of the Honourable George’s arrival

drew on quite before I realized it. A brief and still snarky note had

apprised me of his intention to come out to North America, whereupon I

had all but forgotten him, until a telegram from Chicago or one of

those places had warned me of his imminence. This I displayed to

Cousin Egbert, who, much pleased with himself, declared that the

Honourable George should be taken to the Floud home directly upon his

arrival.

“I meant to rope him in there on the start,” he confided to me, “but I

let on I wasn’t decided yet, just to keep ‘em stirred up. Mrs. Effie

she butters me up with soft words every day of my life, and that

Jackson lad has offered me about ten thousand of them vegetable

cigarettes, but I’ll have to throw him down. He’s the human flivver.

Put him in a car of dressed beef and he’d freeze it between here and

Spokane. Yes, sir; you could cut his ear off and it wouldn’t bleed. I

ain’t going to run the Judge against no such proposition like that.”

Of course the poor chap was speaking his own backwoods metaphor, as I

am quite sure he would have been incapable of mutilating

Belknap-Jackson, or even of imprisoning him in a goods van of beef. I

mean to say, it was merely his way of speaking and was not to be taken

at all literally.

As a result of his ensuing call upon the pressman, the sheet of the

following morning contained word of the Honourable George’s coming,

the facts being not garbled more than was usual with this chap.

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