soapsuds, rinse, dry quickly, then brush over with turpentine, sweet
oil, and alcohol, equal parts, mixed, then one-fifth their bulk of thin
varnish added. Coat well. When dry, rub over with a thick soft cloth.
Dust gilt or enameled wicker very clean, wash quickly in weak tepid
suds, wipe, and sift on whiting and corn starch, let stand half an hour,
and brush off. Dry-cleaning alone suffices for things not much soiled.
Instead of sifting, the starch and chalk or whiting may be tied tight in
coarse net and used as a swab. Take out spots and stains (see section
Spots and Stains) before cleaning.
=Porch Furniture=: Porch furniture, whether rattan, rustic, or bamboo,
needs only to be dusted, well and quickly, washed in tepid suds, dried,
and rubbed liberally all over with crude kerosene and creosoted
turpentine (see section Renovators). Dry in air, but away from sun; do
the work, however, if possible, upon a dry, sunny day.
=Enameled Iron=: Resurface things as they chip (see section Making
Whole). Wash clean in tepid suds after dusting, wipe dry, then rub over
lightly with sweet oil and alcohol, equal parts, with a teaspoonful of
thin varnish added to the pint and well shaken.
=Sundry Preventions=: Crumple tissue paper thickly over upholstered
furniture before putting on covers—it saves from wear, dust, and fading.
Newspapers pasted into big sheets and spread over floor, bed, dresser,
and couch in spare rooms likewise catch dust and stop light. They can be
gathered up in a few minutes; take care, though, to lift edges first and
shake dust inward, then fold. Where sunshine falls upon matting a double
thickness of paper saves fading. Narrow lengths either to hang or pin
about draperies will keep the draperies fresh. Paper is as nearly
impervious to dust as almost anything known. Paper bags tied over gas
globes, brass door knobs, and candlesticks prevent both dust and
tarnish. Also there is no better summer ambush for articles of “bigotry
and virtue” than a thick swathing of tissue paper inside a paper bag.
Newspaper has further the merit of discouraging moths—they hate
printers’ ink the same as other plunderers. Shut down windows upon
newspaper, letting it fall well over the inner sill, and there will be
no fading of paint there nor cakings of dust.
Glue rounds of felt to the feet of all things not furnished with castors
if you would save polished floors from marking. A brad or two, driven
upward, the heads well sunk, will add stability. Old soft hats will
furnish the rounds. Instead, you may use a contrivance now in market,
which is practically the same thing, also cheap and convenient.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
V
MAKING WHOLE
=Rickety Furniture=: Scrape or file away old glue from loosened joins,
cover with fresh glue very hot (see section Renovators). Tie fast
together or put in a vise, protecting the jaws of it with thick paper,
and let stand two days. Reinforce then underneath with iron—a light
angle iron for corners, strap iron with holes punched along each edge
for straight breaks. Small light metal hinges often answer admirably.
Screw everything firmly in place, then scrape away oozing of glue
outside, sandpaper, and refinish.
A jagged break needs glue extra thick and hot. Brush it well into broken
fibers, both ends, press them together, fasten firmly, let harden,
scrape away oozings, and screw on strap iron with holes an inch apart in
the edges. Put it inside or underneath, and if it shows, as on chair or
table legs, paint to match the wood, and varnish when dry.
Fine brads, driven in alternately, slantwise, on the under side, will
hold cracks fast, but not so fast as strap iron. Hinges set in an angle
need a little wood gouged away so they may lie flat against the wood.
Fill gaps in a splintered surface with putty colored to match.
=Glass and China=: No cement ever made at home or commercially will bear
long soaking in hot water or suds. Hard usage is also impossible.
Notwithstanding, mending is well worth while, wherefore save the pieces,
and especially save tiny splinters. Otherwise your mending will be vain.
Twice a year have a mending-day, saving up breakage against it. Work at
a steady table set in good light but not glaring. Have a white table
cover, a bowl of hot water, a cup of alcohol, plenty of clean rags,
several camel’s-hair brushes of varying size, a tumbler of water to hold
them when not in use, plenty of twine, tying-tape, new rubber bands in
variety, a pair of swinging weights, and on the floor, out of the way, a
box half full of damp earth or sand. You need in addition squares of
deal or cardboard for setting out of the way mended things. Also a pound
of putty mixed stiff and, if mending ornaments, gold paint and colors in
powder.
With a simple clean fracture, as across a platter, wash edges very
clean, using a brush and suds, rinse in hot water, then coat thickly
with pure white lead rubbed thicker than cream in raw linseed oil. Set
the larger fragment, break up, perpendicularly in the box of sand. It
must stand plumb. Fit the other piece to it, and hang evenly across it
the swinging weights, which are but a strip of strong cloth doubled up
into pockets at each end and filled with buckshot or pebbles, which must
balance accurately. Their use is to make the join firm and fine—in fact,
barely visible. Leave standing several days, then file or sandpaper off
surplus lead. Lead-mending is the most durable of all.
Mend thin china with white of egg and quicklime. Beat the egg stiff,
coat clean edges thickly with it, dust with powdered unslaked lime,
press hard together at once, and fasten firmly. The lime sets as in
mortar. Sandpaper the break after a week. This is a good cement for
opaque glass as well.
Hollow things, as cups, bowls, etc., should be set over crumpled paper
upon a round of cloth, with a drawstring in the edge just big enough to
cover them halfway. Draw up the string very carefully after mending, and
fasten. The secret of good mending is to have things held fast.
Rubber bands help mightily. String half a dozen strong ones on a tape
and tie about the neck or base of anything so rounding strings slip.
Join the broken part, then put another tape through the bands, and lift
it steadily until you can fasten it about the neck or over the top. The
bands must be the same size, and draw equally. After tying the tapes set
a weight on top of the broken thing. Loop rubber bands around broken-off
handles, set them in place, then string a tape through the bands, draw
them together, and pass the tape twice around the body of the vessel.
Build up shattered things bit by bit about cores of putty covered with
wax paper. This if shape admits taking out the putty. Narrow-mouthed
things had better have cores of absorbent cotton wound with wax paper.
It can be picked out bit by bit, using a hook. Putty likewise can be dug
or rasped out, but not so easily. Things very badly broken need to be
mended in sections, joining scraps and fitting in splinters. Fill
cavities outside and in with either soft putty or plaster mixed with
white of egg. A backing of putty inside seams makes them secure. Keep
clean fingers while mending. Also keep broken bits clean. If a mend
fails, soak off cement and begin over. White lead must be taken off with
turpentine. But failure with it is rare.
If a handle-break goes through in a vase or ewer fit inside the hole a
lump of putty, then cement edges, and press together, holding something
against the putty and spreading it all over the break. Hard, it makes an
indestructible join. Water will not affect it; still, such a vessel had
better be kept for show.
=Glass=: Mend glass as directed for china, but use white cement, gum
arabic, or sugar syrup (see section Renovators). Press breaks hard
together and fasten firmly. If it is possible to expel every bit of air,
the break will be scarcely visible. For colored glass rub dry color
smooth in a little white cement and apply with a very fine brush. Repair
breaks in gilt glass, after mending, with gold paint. Do the same for
gilt china, and touch up with matching colors any flaws in the pattern.
=Mending Bric-à-brac=: Mend broken ivory with a few drops of fish glue
such as shoe-makers use. Press very hard together, wipe off oozings
clean, fasten, wrap in cotton, then in paper, put in a vise and screw
firmly but not too hard. Metal ornaments can be either soldered or
repaired with sealing-wax and resin, melted together over boiling water
and applied very hot. Join broken bisque and clay figures with white of
egg and powdered unslaked lime unless it is possible to get from a
potter a little regular luting. Mend torn or loosened leather with fish
glue, and put under heavy weight.
=Mending Books=: Take out of the covers, press square and solid, then
paste over the back a strip of stout thin muslin, letting the edges
project unpasted an inch either side. Dry under pressure, so the muslin
will be fully rounded. Turn back the loose muslin accurately along the
edge, paste it plentifully on the outer sides, then lay on the cover,
press firmly in place, and dry under weight. When dry, paste in new fly
leaves double fold. Paste the outer one to the cover, the inner one only
lightly to the book. Removing old fly leaves spotted or defaced makes a
better job of it.
=Mending Lamps and Candlesticks=: Fasten loose lamp collars with white
of egg and plaster; make as thick as putty and use quickly. Solder
broken metal parts. Dust with powdered resin, lay on the stick of
solder, and apply the hot iron. Tinkering thus needs only a little
knack. It enables you to stop leaks in zinc or tin—as pipes, shields,
and so on. Cooking-vessels are quite another story.
=Mending Rubber=: This is a parlous business at best, still can be done.
Get the best rubber cement, have the break very clean, apply, and let
harden for a day at least. Breaks in hose, tubes, and so on had better
be cloth-covered—after mending, of course. Indeed, the life of such
things is trebled by covering them neatly before they break. Cut strips
of cloth wide enough to go round, allow half an inch for turned edges,
fold down, and whip together around the hose or tube. A big pipe can
have a cover of canvas stitched up. Covering protects the surface and
takes up a large part of the water strain. Fill breaks in rubber
footgear with rubber cement, let harden, then put inside over the break
a piece of strong, thin cloth, shaped to fit and coated upon one side
with fish glue. The glue goes next the rubber; after it has hardened it
takes the strain.
=Darning=: Darning is an art, so much so one may well say there are torn
things not worth a darn. If they are woolen things, mend with rubber
tissue, smoothing the tear with a warm iron, then laying on the tissue
and fixing it with a hotter one. Press again on the right side, and clip
close any loose fibers.
=Linen, Silk, and Stuff=: Lay under the break stiff paper spread with
net matching in color, press with a warm iron, baste before lifting
lightly, take up and baste again about the edges. Match thread to
fabric; use a fine needle, go back and forth with very short running
stitches, catching the net below, but taking only as deep hold in the
outside as will make a firm mend. Beware puckers. When finished, cut
away surplus net and press on the wrong side, then under a cloth on the
right. If a tiny hole is to be filled in, tack it smooth over stiff
paper, then with ravelings of the stuff or thread exactly matching go
over the warp way, setting thread for thread, barely catching at the
ends, then weave in cross threads, same as the original fabric, and
press. Or the hole can be cut to a tiny square after basting on paper
and a matched square inserted and darned in all round. This had better
have net under it so the join may not pull apart.
Machine-darn table linen as soon as it shows threadbare spots, putting
them in an embroidery hoop and stitching back and forth the way of the
missing threads. White net underneath strengthens, but with napkins and
tea cloths it is better left off. A cloth broken along the middle fold
can be darned thus over net. But it is easier and better to split it
evenly, hem the split edges, and trim them with lace, then join the
selvages with a row of coarse insertion, herringboned in with coarse
linen thread.
=Darning Stockings=: Children’s stockings last much longer for ripping
to the calf when new and machine-darning inside them, over the knees,
sound old tops. Sew up loosely. Darn strong net or thin stockinet
loosely inside heels and toes; when the stockings come in holes, rip out
this first application, cover your darning-egg with fresh net, set the
hole over it, taking care not to stretch it, whip down all round
loosely, then darn as usual, running threads through the net and cutting
away surplusage when finished.
Silk stockings should always be darned on net, matching colors of net
and darning-floss. Tack lace insets or embroidery smooth upon white
stiff paper and fill in breaks with lace stitches or new embroidery.
Mend a running break—colloquially, a ladder—by catching the errant
stitch, sewing it fast, then filling the raveled space with very fine
herringbone. Fill holes in the instep, or heel, above slipper height,
with loose buttonhole stitches in matching silk, going across and back,
catching each stitch after the first row in the top of the one below it.
Make neither tight nor slack. Infinite patience and a very fine crochet
hook enable one to fill such breaks with real stocking-weaving. Ravel
the break to a line, take up the stitches on a very fine thread, then
fasten on silk and draw up in loops, keeping them on the needle. Fasten
to the side and work back, drawing a new stitch through each one already
on the needle. Repeat till the hole is full, then draw stitches through
those in the upper edge, which has been likewise raveled straight. Only
very costly stockings are worth such pains.
=Coarse Mending=: Boys and men wear holes at knees, elbows, and on
seats. Rip seams, cut the holes square, match new squares, and stitch,
press, and sew up. Seat holes need not be cut clear across-only as far
as the break. Cut corners diagonally the depth of a seam, but not too
deep. Lacking cloth for such repairs, take note when clothes show
threadbare in such spots, lay other cloth under, and machine-darn
thickly with matching thread, fine rather than coarse. Such prevention
often outlasts the patch cure besides being more presentable.
=Mending Bed Clothes=: Fine threadbare blankets are worth darning. Wash
well and darn with soft wool, using a large-eyed needle. Avoid
puckering. Darn warp way first, then go across. Cut ragged edges smooth,
and overcast loosely with colored wool rather than bind. Darn tears on
net, using silk or flax, rather fine. Beware making mends hard and
lumpy. Comforts should be untacked, the stuffing, whether cotton, wool,
or down, aired and washed at need, the outsides made into rags, and new
covers provided for the padding. Cheesecloth unbleached lasts and
launders well. Make pocket covers of it, half a yard deep, for the tops
of comforts breaking there and nowhere else.
Old muslin rarely pays for mending more elaborate than running together
slits. Wide sheets can have the thin centers torn out, the selvages
joined, and raw edges hemmed, thus turning them into single-bed size.
Handsome linen sheets, when they break along the hem-stitching, should
be cut there, hemmed neatly each side, and joined with strong narrow
linen insertion, or beading, or linen braid crocheted in a straight line
down either side. Embroidered pillow and bolster cases, when the body
wears, should have the embroidery cut off and joined thus with insertion
or crochet work to new bodies—it will last as long. Handsome monograms
and _motifs_ should be transferred from old linen to new. Cut out,
neatly baste on new stuff, and sew down all round with fine needle,
thread, and stitches. If there are holes in the pattern, pierce them and
sew over well, using slightly coarser thread. Press before sewing, and
be careful not to draw the work.
=Mending Lace=: Transfer figures from heavy laces, such as hand-run
Spanish, to new net grounds, first cleaning them carefully, and dipping,
if rusty, in stale beer or water in which a raw Irish potato has been
grated. Drain without squeezing, press while damp, then cut out and
arrange upon the new ground, which has been stretched smooth over paper.
Point lace, being needle-made, can be needle-mended as good as new. Tack
smooth upon waxed linen or stiff paper, study the breaks, and fill them
with the same stitch, using the same thread. If the ground is badly
broken, expedite work by laying under a bit of fine net, matching the
mesh, and sewing the figures to it. Lace stitches can be learned from
any book on needlework, and are none of them difficult. Irish crochet
wears out all over commonly—tears or breaks, though, can be filled with
a crochet hook, matching stitch and thread.
Mend lace curtains by laying new net under breaks and either sewing
figures to it or, in case of tender old fabrics, wetting with starch and
pressing with a hot iron. The starch mend will last as long as the
curtain. Tiny tears can be thus starch-mended to advantage at any stage.
=Furniture=: Threadbare coverings, as damask, brocatelle, and tapestry,
require deft darning with a fine needle—several fine needles, indeed,
and matched silks. Follow the pattern as nearly as possible in putting
in stitches. Put worn hangings into an embroidery frame and work boldly
in coarse silks or wool, keeping to the color scheme and using as far as
possible the woven pattern, but making the new figures hide blemishes.
Remove linings before embroidering, press on the wrong side, and, if too
limp, stiffen slightly with gum water (see section Renovators).
=Fur Sewing and Mending=: Fur sewing takes courage as much as skill. All
fur is mended before making up. Art lies in cutting patches accurately
and setting them in so the fur lies with that around it. To fill in a
moth-eaten spot rip out linings and enough seams to let the fur lie
flat, then chalk-mark the smallest space that will remove the moth
patch. Cut through along the mark with a sharp-pointed knife, then lay
the hole upon the patch fur and shift until it matches in color and
growth. Mark all round, take off the garment, cut the patch with your
sharp knife just outside the marking. Fit into the hole, tack lightly in
four places, turn, sew the cut edges together, taking stitches close and
barely deep enough to hold. Turn every little while, smooth seam, and
look for puckers; if any rip, sew over. Sewing done, press seam hard
with the thimble on something flat, then turn and press on right side
with the end of the thumb. Manipulate until the skin edges lie one
against the other. Fur garments can be remodeled at home with just such
sewing. Shape, piece, or mend, sew together, and reline. Very tiny bits
can be used many ways, wherefore save them religiously. Tails that have
been partly moth-eaten or lost hair should have the bare lengths cut
out, the remnants neatly joined. Long furs, such as marten, mink, skunk,
and fox, are not easier than seal, beaver, and so on, but less apt to
show bungling work. Astrakan is so soft and crinkly it sews almost like
cloth.
=Carpets, Matting, and Rugs=: Make carpets as clean as possible before
mending. Darn with wool and upholsterer’s needles as they lie on the
floor, matching thread to pattern, unless the pattern is worn away. Cut
bad spots square, or to straight edges, snip corners, turn under edges,
fit in a square, turn down its edges, trimming at corners to avoid
lumps, safety-pin at each corner, turn over and whip turned edges fast,
then cover with damp cloth and press. Shift stair carpets often enough
to get equal wear all over. Have an extra step length and turn it under
at top or bottom to make shifting easy.
Dyeing helps a faded carpet mightily. Put it down clean with thick paper
under, wipe over with clarified ox gall in tepid water, then with clear
water, wringing the cloth dry, then paint with a thick soft brush dipped
lightly in hot dye. Use the color predominant in the room, no matter
about the pattern. Rub the dye in well, but do not slop nor sop it.
Treat fine matting, especially in rug form, the same way. Figures will
show through, but not unpleasantly. Even a grass rug takes color
readily. Hang smooth and wet thoroughly, let stand to set, then wash
with weak suds. Dye on both sides. Carpets and mattings must be dyed on
one side only and washed lightly, after the color sets, with suds, then
wiped over with either vinegar and water or weak alum water.
Rug-mending needs a volume; here it gets only a paragraph. For breaks,
tears, moth-eaten or worn spots lay smooth upon something soft and
sleazy—wool crash is excellent, so is basket-woven serge. Flannel will
answer; at a pinch so will burlap. Fasten so thread runs true with those
of the rug. If the original fabric shows appreciably, darn it down on
the patch, matching the darning-wool to the colors. If there is a
yawning hole, put the wool double in a very big needle, stick through
from the top, bring up again in almost the same place. Tie to the end
above, stick back, stick up again, repeat, varying thread, until the
whole space is covered with woolly loops. Cut them through, then trim
smooth with very sharp shears, comb with a coarse comb, and trim again.
Moth-eaten moquette carpet can be treated the same way, using as many
needles as there are colors in the pattern.
=Care of Gloves=: Pull off gloves over the hand, not by tugging at
finger tips; this is the first commandment. The second is, Never crumple
them. Let lie open from the hand until dry, then smooth, wrap in tissue
paper, and put away. Sew fastenings the minute they show loose. Mend at
the first ripped stitch. Glove powder shaken inside before putting away
after wearing keeps them fresher. Either patch holes in thumb and
fingers with very thin kid, else cut off the worn sections almost to the
palm, shape new sections from old kid, sew on, then sew in. Color gray
spots on the fingers of black kid gloves with a few drops of ink rubbed
well through other drops of sweet oil. In cleaning with gasolene put on
gloves, fasten smooth, and begin work at the top of the wrist—there will
be circles otherwise, especially in long gloves. Wash as though washing
hands, using a very soft cloth or wisp of cotton. Change gasolene as
soon as dirty. Rub afterward well with starch and whiting, powdered.
=Cleaning Furs=: Brush well, comb twice—against grain and with it—wipe
over with soft flannel, then with a wisp of cotton tied in old silk and
dipped lightly in gasolene or benzine or ether. Ether is best for white
furs. Work quickly, changing the cloth if it grows dirty. Comb up again,
and sift over hot cornmeal or sifted sawdust, rub it well through the
fur, up, down, crosswise, shake out, and hang to air. White furs after
shaking out should be covered thick with starch and whiting in fine
powder, mixed with enough powder blue to clear. Let lie several days,
then shake out, brush hard, and wipe over very quickly with a soft damp
cloth. Dry-clean light and fancy linings by gentle, steady rubbing with
a swab of starch and whiting tied in soft silk or cheesecloth. Put a few
drops of ether or gasolene on soiled spots, rub hard with the swab, then
with a clean cloth, dipped in powdered chalk.
Furs worn in dusty wind or a foul atmosphere need to be well combed,
brushed against the grain, and aired quickly. Dry wet furs in air, but
away from heat. Stretch and knead them several times while drying to
keep the skin pliable. Shake hard at first, hang smooth, and let drain.
Unless very wet, only dampness will reach the skin if they are so
treated. Snow shaken off before melting is a help rather than a hurt.
Indeed, a good way to clean fur rugs is to drag them, hair down, over
dry snow. Clean on the floor by sprinkling thickly with hot meal or
sawdust, rubbing in well and brushing out, then combing.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
VI
MAKING AND MAKING OVER