Up in railway; all Switzerland is now "up in railway." Revisiting
simple spot opposite Jungfrau; here twenty years ago. "Simple!"
Electric light; shops; telescopes; tourists everywhere! They sprawl
on hillocks like Bank-holiday-Virginia-Waterers! Just heard one ask
waiter, "'Ow many feet are we 'ere above the sea?" "One tousing
eight 'undred mètres." "What's the good of meters?" What indeed?
Electric light everywhere. Everybody telescoping chamois, and buying
photographs; photographs chiefly of _other_ places; all the same when
you return home. Men attired like golfers; women in gaiters; exercise,
principally shopping. Simple Switzeresses outside toy-booths, talk
excellent English, but all in national costume. N.B. National costume
can be purchased.
[Illustration]
There _used_ to be only half an inn here; there are _now_ five hotels,
with a beer-garden, and inevitable casino. Dancing every night. Like
to watch fair, fat, sentimental German waltzing solemnly. Elderly
Darby of Albion, too, capering the newest shuffles and reverses, would
surprise his wife Joan at home. "Darby is devoted to climbing, and I
was glad to let him return to the primitive little place I remember on
our honeymoon." That is what _she_ thinks. _Climbing!_ Not a bit of it!
Most here, when fagged out with shopping, take guide and porter up the
"Shamhorn." There's a "Shamhorn" album now wherein proud mountaineers
exhibit flights of fancy in their records that one could never guess
from their countenances. At _table d'hôte_ not a few of SVENGALI'S
opinion, that "only the dirty want to wash." But the water is superb!
so are the Alps. Yet am I Oberlanded, and must go lower to feel higher.
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