A ready and safe communication with these important places, and at the
same time with all the most eastern parts of Asia, with all the
Islands in the Pacific Ocean, and with all the western coasts of the
great continent of America, it will be readily allowed, is of the
utmost importance to Great Britain and to the whole civilized world.
Through the isthmus of central America only, a short, safe, and easy
passage from Europe to the eastern parts of Asia and the Pacific
Ocean, can be effected. That a passage over the Pole exists, is
extremely probable, nay, it may be said, is certain. This passage,
when found, will be obtained by standing north between Nova Zembla and
Spitzbergen, and thence over the Pole, inclining first eastward above
Europe, and thence westward for some distance, to Behring's Straits.
But admitting that there is a passage open by this route, it can only
be so from the end of May to the middle of September, and during this
period only comparatively safe; a period much too short to accomplish
a voyage out and back from China, and scarcely sufficient to perform
the voyage out and back between Great Britain and her territories on
the west coast of America situated to the north of Columbia River.
Moreover, even if a passage this way was open for a period sufficient
to enable the navigator to accomplish the voyage to either of the
quarters alluded to, still it will appear, when the distances come (p. 084)
to be noticed and contrasted, that, considering the winds and the
weather which ships would encounter in passing over the North Pole
into the Pacific, as contrasted with those which they would most
certainly meet with in sailing westward through tropical seas, by the
Isthmus of America; that the latter route would, upon the whole, be
the best, and in all respects preferable and most expeditious.
A communication by the latter quarter may be advantageously and
speedily opened up, both for steamers and for sailing vessels; and in
the conveyance of mails, both or either may be employed, as shall
appear to be most eligible and most advisable. To lay open such a
communication as this would prove, is an object of the first
importance, worthy of the attention of any body of men, and of any
nation, but more especially of a nation like Great Britain, to support
and to patronize in every way. By this route, all vessels, mails, and
merchandise could reach the more distant and wealthy parts of Asia and
Australasia, sooner and safer, and through seas comparatively always
tranquil, borne by winds scarcely ever varying, and always favourable,
than these can do by any other course that is known, or that remains
to be discovered. In an especial manner, this would be the case as
regards all the western coasts of America, North and South, the
Islands in the Pacific, New South Wales and Van Dieman's Land, Japan,
China, Eastern Siberia, &c. The perpetual trade-winds would bear
vessels before them from Madeira to Canton, and almost to Sydney,
while in returning they would merely have to run through these
trade-winds, with a steady breeze on the beam, until they reached the
latitude of 30° to 32° north, when the steady and certain, and strong
westerly and south-west winds, would bear them in these parallels
first, to the west coast of America; from which point winds off the
land, and north-easterly trade-winds, would carry them, in the second
place, to the point of communication with the Atlantic, through the
Isthmus of central America; from which they, in the third place, would
run to the north, carried by the trade-winds and the Gulf stream, into
and through the Gulf of Florida, into the variable winds, which would
quickly bear them to all the eastern ports of North America, and (p. 085)
to all the ports in Europe, or along the coasts of the Mediterranean.
By this channel, namely, through the Isthmus of central America, the
valuable, but almost unknown, British territory on the west coast of
North America, would be brought near, and cleared, and cultivated. So
also would the whole remaining western coast of America, from Nootka
Sound to the southern extremity of Chili, be brought near to the
civilized world, and become, in consequence, also peopled, cleared,
and cultivated. Without such a communication is opened up, these
coasts, and states upon them, can scarcely ever be brought to this
state, but to which it is most desirable for the general interests of
the world, and of the human race in it, that they should be brought.
Situated as they are, there is no produce of their soil which their
inhabitants can raise that can bear the expense of carriage to enable
it to come into competition in the general markets of the world, with
similar articles raised in other countries, which are all more
accessible and placed nearer markets; and unless the soil of the
western coasts of America and the islands in the Pacific are brought
into cultivation, and peopled by people more civilized and
industrious, it is obvious that these countries and the states and
population at present in them, must remain in the poor, ignorant,
miserable, and uncultivated state and condition in which they are, of
little service to themselves or to the remainder of the world.
The points where the communication between the Atlantic and the
Pacific are most feasible and practicable, is at one point on the
southern boundaries of the Republic of Mexico, and the others within
the territories of the Republics of Guatemala and Venezuela. The neck
of land, or isthmus, which connects North and South America together,
may be taken to extend from 8° N. lat., in the meridian of 77° W.
long., to the parallel of 18° or 19° N. lat. in the meridian of 100°
W. long. Narrow as the continent of America is in all this space, but
more especially in the southern portion of this space, recent surveys
have reduced it still more; and it is not improbable that, when the
late surveys of the west coasts within the tropics are published, that
it will be found to be still narrower, and more contracted than is (p. 086)
supposed, or than the late accurate surveys by Captain Owen, under the
orders also of the British Government, of the shores of the Gulf of
Mexico, have shown it to be; and consequently the communication
between the Atlantic and the Pacific will be found to be still shorter
and more easy than it has been, or is even now considered to be.
The first two points within the limits above mentioned, where
communications are most practicable, are the following:--_First_, in
the territory of Mexico, from the mouth of the river Guazacoalcos, on
the Gulf of Mexico, to the mouth of the Chimalapa, in the Gulf of
Tehuantepec, on the Pacific, between the parallels of 16-1/2° to
18-1/2° N. lat. The distance from sea to sea at this part is 92
geographical miles, in a south-west direction. The sources of the
streams which flow, the one eastward into the Gulf of Mexico, and the
other westward, into the Pacific, come within the short distance of 20
miles of each other. _Secondly_, The channel from the Gulf of Dolce,
which communicates with the Gulf of Mexico, to the southward of
Honduras or the Balize, to Trinidad, situate on a bay in the Pacific,
to the north of Point Remedios. The distance of the Gulf of Dolce to
the Pacific, at the point just mentioned, is 60 geographical miles,
with the advantages of the courses of rivers which bend their courses
to the opposite oceans. But if it is correct that the River Balize is,
as it has been stated to be, navigable upwards in its course to a
distance of 200 miles, then it must penetrate so deeply into the
continent, that its sources must approach to points still nearer to
the Pacific than the Gulf of Dolce, or its tributary streams. It is
doubtful, however, if any canals could be cut in either of the lines
mentioned, because the land rises very considerably, forming in the
central parts what is denominated Table Land, and is in general
studded with ridges and high volcanic mountains, while the ports on
either shore are neither very commodious nor of safe approach. There
has been of late years also a tolerable good road constructed in the
first-mentioned line, which will tend greatly to facilitate the
communication from sea to sea, so far as the interests of Mexico are
immediately concerned.
These points adverted to are the only probable channels of (p. 087)
communication to the northward of the River St. Juan and Lake
Nicaragua, which, like the last-noticed line, are situated in the
territory of the Republic of central America, the capital of which is
San Salvador. For reasons which will subsequently be adduced, the
consideration of this important position is left until those points in
the Isthmus of Panama and Darien have been particularly noticed and
examined.
The first points to examine are those which are situated to the
southward and eastward of Panama, and which are immediately connected
with, and contiguous to, the Gulf of Darien. These are as follow:--In
the province of Choco, famous for its gold mines, there is a ravine
called Rapsadura, extending between a head branch of the River St.
Juan, which, after a course from N. E. by N. to S. W. by S., falls
into the Pacific in lat. 4°5' N.; and the river of Quito, one of the
head branches of the River Atrato, which flows in nearly a due north
course into the Gulf of Darien. Through the ravine just mentioned, the
parish priest of Novita dug a small canal in 1778, which was navigable
during the rainy season, and by which canoes, laden with coffee and
other produce, passed from one sea to another, a distance of 250
miles; as they found it requisite and convenient.
The next point, and more to the north beyond Cape St. Francisco de
Solano, in about 7°30' N. lat. is, from the mouth of the Cupica, or
Tupica, as it is denominated in some maps, along that stream, which
descends from the eastward into the Pacific, through a break in the
mountains to the head of the river Naipi, a distance of from 15 to 20
miles only. The latter river is deep and navigable, and flows through
a lake of considerable magnitude, nearly due east, into the River
Atrato, a little below the village of Zitara, about 60 miles from the
mouth of the latter stream, in the Gulf of Darien. The distance from
the Pacific to the Atrato, through the channels mentioned, is only 60
geographical miles. The Atrato springs (its farthest branch the Rio
Chame) in the rising ground, in 5°40' N. lat. and 75° 15' W. long.,
and runs almost due north, a distance of 200 miles, into the Gulf of
Darien. At this point, the western and secondary chain of the (p. 088)
Andes is broken and interrupted, and there is good reason to believe
that they continue to be so in several places more to the northward:
in fact, that they cease, and are succeeded through all the Isthmus of
Darien and Panama, by a low range, broken into fragments in different
places. At the point under consideration, namely, by the Cupica and
the Naipi, the Spanish Government had it in contemplation, about forty
years ago, to open a communication from sea to sea, by means of a
canal; but the events in Europe, and the decay of their power,
prevented the important enterprise from being undertaken. The Gulf of
Darien, and the course of the Atrato, were rigidly guarded and
concealed by the Spanish Government, so much so, that by special
decrees the punishment of death was denounced against every one who
should either permit or attempt the exploration of the country in
these parts. This showed clearly that their practical knowledge gave
them to know, that a communication between the Atlantic and the
Pacific was easy and practicable in more places than one in this
quarter of their dominions.
The next point where the communication is practicable, either by water
or a short distance by land, where a canal could be cut, or a road
made, is between the Gulf of St. Miguel on the Pacific, to the bottom
of the Gulf of Darien, due east, and also to the Port de Escoces, or
_New Edinburgh_, more to the N. (N. E. by E. from St. Miguel) in the
upper part of the Gulf of Darien, on the Atlantic. The distance from
the head of the Gulf of St. Miguel to the latter point is 30 miles,
and to the former 45 to 50 miles, but with river communications to
within 16 miles of the latter, and 10 miles of the former. The Gulf of
St. Miguel opens to the Pacific from 8°8' to 8°17' N. lat., and runs
E. N. E. and N. E. by E., fully 22 miles into the country, its centre
crossing the meridian of 78° W. long. As has been shortly adverted to,
the rivers which seem to form the Gulf of St. Miguel run deeply into
the country, both to the S. E. and to the N. E., one particularly, the
Chuqunaque, with an extremely zigzag course between ridges of mountains,
is laid down to within 10 miles of New Edinburgh; which, by the last
Admiralty charts, drawn from the best Spanish authorities, is (p. 089)
placed in 8° 55' N. lat. and 76° 45' W. long. To the S. E. the source
of streams which run into the Gulf of San Miguel spring within 15
miles of the mouth of the Atrato, while branches of each approach
within half that distance of each other. The land in this quarter is
clearly low, because, for a considerable distance from its mouth, the
Atrato runs through a very marshy and flooded country. New Edinburgh,
or Port de Escoces, is an excellent port, commodious, and well
sheltered, and is the celebrated spot where, in 1699 (one hundred and
thirty-eight years ago), the Scotch colony, under the direction of a
Scotch clergyman, named Paterson, a most intelligent and enterprising
man, was established, in order to open up a communication between both
seas, and which was afterwards so shamefully, disgracefully, stupidly,
and unguardedly abandoned by the then Government of Great Britain,
spurred on to the act by the miserable and contracted commercial
rivalry of England and Holland; and afterwards by the jealousies, the
fears, and the representations of the Government of Spain, which at
that time had really no right to the country, the natives thereof
being independent of, and at war with, Spain. The Gulf of Darien is of
easy entrance, and penetrates southward to a little beyond the 8° of
N. lat., and to the southward of the principal mouth of the Atrato;
the centre of the bottom of the Gulf being in the meridian of 76° 55'
W. longitude.
The next and last point to the southward and the eastward of Chagre is
by the river of Chopo, about 25 miles to the eastward of Panama.
Narrow as the land in this quarter has been held to be, still the
charts and maps lately published by individuals, and by the authority
of the Admiralty, show that it is much narrower than what has hitherto
been calculated upon; and in the particular point under consideration,
very narrow indeed. From the mouth of the River Chopo, opposite the
little island Chepillo in the Pacific, to the bottom of the Gulf of
St. Blas or Mandinga on the Atlantic, is only about 20 miles (some
maps make it still less). In this space, the mountains to the eastward
of the high chain S. of Point Manzanillo and Porto Bello, which give
rise to the Chagres, and its tributary streams, running first (p. 090)
westward and then north-west into the Atlantic, are again, according
to Captain Lloyd, interrupted and broken, affording thereby a readier
communication between the two great oceans, the Atlantic, and the
Pacific. In an apparently good Spanish map of the Isthmus, upon a
large scale, the River Chopo or Bayano is represented as being formed
by two branches, one under the name of the Rio Canizas, springing to
the southward of the Pico de Carti, a hill only four miles from the
Atlantic, in the Bay of Mandinga; the whole course of the river to the
Pacific on a general south bearing, being only 22 miles. The source of
the Chagres comes within 15 miles of the lower course of the Chopo;
and some good maps lay down a river which joins the Chopo, near its
mouth, as coming from the N. E., its sources likewise being within a
very few miles of the Atlantic. Here, certainly, is a point from
which, and on which a communication could be opened up at any rate by
a good road, so as to afford a speedy conveyance for passengers,
mails, and goods, between the two seas; while it is also exceedingly
probable that, even in this short space, great facilities and
assistance could be obtained by canal navigation, and by the rivers
just mentioned.
The points, however, where a canal could be cut of sufficient depth to
admit the passage of large ships, and thus save the delay and the
expense which loading and unloading cargoes would occasion, where
roads of any description remain the only means of communication, and
where the approach on either coast is safe, and interior water
communication most abundant, are, certainly, the points which should
be fixed upon and selected, in order to effect the object so important
to the whole world. The two points hitherto the best known, and
considered to be the best adapted for the purpose, are, first, the
line from Chagre on the Atlantic, to Panama on the Pacific; and
secondly, the line, perhaps the best of the whole, from the mouth of
the River St. Juan on the Atlantic, by that river and Lake Nicaragua,
to Rialejo, or Gulf Papagayo, on the Pacific.
The Panama line comes most properly the first point for consideration.
Here the survey, by Lieutenant Lloyd, in 1829, gives some certain
data, and some curious and important information. He tells us (p. 091)
pointedly, from actual observation, that which good Spanish maps
indicated, and what was more vaguely told by others. According to him,
on the eastern side of the province of Veragua, the Cordillera breaks
into detached mountains, their sides exhibiting only bare rock, almost
perpendicular. To these, as approaching nearer Panama, succeed
numerous conical mountains, arising out of savannahs and plains, and
seldom exceeding from 300 to 500 feet. "Finally," says he, "between
Chagre on the Atlantic side, and Chorera on the Pacific, these conical
mountains are not so numerous, having plains of great extent,
interspersed with occasional ranges of hills of inconsiderable
height."
Such is the Isthmus of Panama, where the distance from sea to sea is,
even according to the present charts, only 30 geographical miles, and
from the mouth of the Chagre to Panama, 33 miles.[18] Of this distance
the Chagre, which has a circuitous course, is navigable for 40 miles
to Cruces--distant from the sea in a direct line 21 miles, and from
Panama 14 miles. At its mouth the Chagre is one-fourth of a mile
broad, and at Cruces about 150 feet: in its middle course the depth is
24 feet. The current runs at the rate of from three to four miles per
hour. It is full of numerous, constantly shifting sand banks, and
sunken trees, which, with the current, render the navigation (p. 092)
tedious, difficult, and even dangerous. At its mouth the coast is very
sickly, as indeed the country through its course also is; but when the
land is cleared, it will doubtless become more healthy. When the
current is very rapid, it requires four or five days to reach Cruces.
The height of the land which intervenes between Cruces and Panama, has
been accurately ascertained by Mr. Lloyd; and that portion of the
country which he passed over in his survey along the old road to
Panama, is certainly the most elevated of the whole, as is shown in
the following summary of his survey.
[Footnote 18: From the mouth of the Chorera to the
Bay Lemon, the distance is 27-1/2 geographical
miles. There is, however, reason to believe, that
the distance from sea to sea is still less. Ulloa,
who was an accurate and scientific observer,
places, and from actual observation, Chagres in 9°
18' 40" N. lat., and Panama in 8° 57' 41" N. lat.
Not being able to observe an eclipse of Jupiter's
satellites, owing to the obscuration of the
atmosphere, he was obliged to calculate the
longitude from bearings and distances. In these,
however, he could not be far wrong; and by these he
places Cruces 21' east of Chagre, and Panama 9'30"
east of Chagre, which, if he is correct, brings the
breadth of the land from the Castle of Chagre to
Panama, to be only 23 geographical miles!!
Since the preceding pages were written, Captain
Washington, secretary to the Royal Geographical
Society, has favoured me with the longitudes of the
places adverted to, as ascertained by Captain
Forster, and in February 1837 by Captain Belcher,
R.N. Porto Bello is in 79° 30' West long.; Chagre,
79° 55'; and Panama in 79° 29' 20". This gives the
distance from Chagre to Panama 33 geographical
miles. Porto Bello is in lat. 9° 32' North. From
thence to the Pacific, a little to the east of
Panama, is 30 miles. From Chagre to the mouth of
the Caymito will be 30 miles. Ulloa's calculations
of longitudes would thus appear to be wrong.]
This survey commenced from the eastern suburb of Panama, at high-water
mark, and ran along the old road to Porto Bello, unto the point where
it crossed the Rio Chagre,--a distance of 1828 chains, 22-3/4 miles.
The highest land passed over was the ridge Maria Henrique, 12-3/4
miles from Panama, and 10 from the Chagre. Its height is 633.32 feet.
The point where the road approaches the river, is 169.840 feet above
the level of high-water mark at Panama; and the bed of the river from
whence the survey commenced downwards, is 152.55 feet. Descending the
river 1545 chains, 19-1/2 miles, Mr. Lloyd came to the village of
Cruces, after a descent of 114.60 feet; thus making Cruces to be 37.96
feet above high-water mark at Panama. From Cruces to Gorgona 410
chains, 5-1/4 miles, the fall is 16.13 feet; and thence to a small
gravel bank, named "_Playa los Ingenieros_" distant from Cruces 1302
chains, 16-3/4 miles, the fall is 21.82 feet, precisely level with the
high-water mark at Panama. At 2682 chains, 33-1/2 miles below Cruces,
Mr. Lloyd first observed the effects of the tide from the Atlantic,
the level of the river at this point being 13.65 feet below the level
of high-water mark on the Pacific. At 507 chains, 12 miles, further
down, reached La Bruja, where the water became brackish; the level of
the surface of the river being 13.55 feet below the high-water mark at
Panama. From La Bruja there was no perceptible descent to the
Atlantic. The whole distance gone over in levelling from sea to sea,
was 82 miles.
The tide at the mouth of the Chagre rises only one foot, or 1.16 feet;
but at Panama the spring-tide in the Pacific rises in a mean level (p. 093)
to the height of 21.22 feet, though high winds and currents
occasionally raise them to the height of 27.44 feet. At low water the
sea sinks proportionally at Panama below the level of the Atlantic:
the reason for this difference is obvious. The current towards the
Gulf of Mexico, and which afterwards forms the famous gulf stream,
carries off rapidly the waters in the Atlantic; while, on the
contrary, the current which flows northward along the western coast of
South America, and the tide which flows into the bay of Panama, from
the south-west from the Pacific, heaps, as it were for a moment, the
waters into the bay and on the shores of Panama, and occasions the
tides alluded to, and differing so greatly from those which are seen
in the Atlantic at the short distance on the opposite coast.
From Maria Henrique to Cruces is only about nine miles. In the
intermediate spaces are several savannahs, and, according to the
Spanish maps, a very considerable river, called Rio de los Laxas,
which enters the Chagre a little above Cruces. This river flows
westward from Mount Maria Henrique; while the principal branches of
the Rio Grande, which flows south into the Pacific immediately to the
westward of Panama, spring from the south-west side of the mountain
already mentioned. The branches of this river and of the Chagre
approach very near each other; while savannahs, according to Lloyd's
map, fill up, as between the Rio Grande and the Obispo, the most of
the intervening space. In this short distance, and with the aid of
these rivers, a water communication, were the country properly
examined, it is conjectured, might be found. From Cruces the road, for
a short distance, ascends considerably; after which it runs along a
ridge, with a valley on each side; that on the south the deepest,
being about 300 feet, and descends until it comes to a plain, through
which it stretches and runs to the city of Panama. It is by quitting
the old Spanish track or road, and continuing along the savannahs and
levels, that it is believed the water communication adverted to could
be effected; and where the distance, taking into account the short
bends which may be necessary, is so short, probably not twenty miles!
These observations naturally call the attention to the consideration
of a line of communication which may be had from the River (p. 094)
Trinidad to the Pacific, either at Panama or a little to the westward
of that town, in the bay of Chorera, at the mouth of the Rio Caymito.
The condition of the country in that portion of the Isthmus has
already been generally described, on the authority of Mr. Lloyd; and
from what he has stated, and which is in unison with other
information, not a doubt can remain that a water communication can be
opened up in this quarter from sea to sea. Lines for railroads have
already been chalked out in both places alluded to; and considered so
easy that the sum of 400,000 dollars is estimated as the whole expense
necessary to complete either. It is scarcely necessary to observe,
that wherever a rail-road can be constructed, a canal may be made. The
River Trinidad is a branch of the Chagre, which comes from the
westward and from the south-westward, and joins the latter at about
eight miles due S. W. from its mouth. The Trinidad is navigable to
Embracadero, and for some distance, from its mouth, is both broad and
deep. Its branches penetrate a considerable way into the country, and
approach closely to the branches of the Caymito, a considerable
stream, which flows through a country, in its lower course,
comparatively level; while between its upper course and the Trinidad
the distance is covered with savannahs and small conical hills, and in
some places marshy plains--a complete proof of the level nature of the
country. The streams which rise to the westward of the line alluded
to, namely, in the hills stretching to the province of Veragua, mostly
flow into the Chagre, another proof of the direction in which the
mountains in this quarter lay; and that there is no continued chain,
as has been stated, extending in the centre of the Isthmus throughout,
and joining together the Andes of North and South America. From the
junction of the Trinidad with the Chagre to Panama is only 26-1/2
miles, and to the mouth of the Chorera 23 miles!
Short, however, as the distances just mentioned are, they are
considerably reduced, when the navigation of the Trinidad on the one
side, and of the Caymito on the other, are taken into account. These
reduce the greater distance at least one-half; and in it, as well as
the lesser distance, the nature of the country, for a considerable (p. 095)
portion of the distance, if not throughout the whole distance,
overcomes almost every obstacle, or rather renders every obstacle that
may offer, possible to be overcome. From that portion of the River
Chagre, which is level with high-water mark at Panama, south-westward
to that city, the country is interspersed with savannahs, and
consequently level. Indeed, for "a few miles" inwards from Panama, the
_plains_ are below the level of the sea, thus rendering the formation
of a canal easy; while, on the north side of the most elevated spot,
the numerous streams which spring and flow to the Chagre would afford
an abundant supply of water for any canal that may be constructed,
however large that may be. The distance, therefore, where any serious
difficulty could occur, must be reduced to a mile or two; and in that
distance, should any of those conical mountains, from 300 to 500 feet
high, or insulated ridges of inconsiderable height, which Mr. Lloyd
tells us are here and there to be found in these places--should any
such intervene, they may be cut through without any great difficulty.
The excess in the rise of the tide in the Pacific, nearly 21 feet
above its rise in the Atlantic, would tend greatly to accelerate the
construction, in this part of America, of a water communication; which
water communication, however, be it observed, must be sufficient to
admit the passage through it of ships of the very highest tonnage, and
at all seasons; otherwise it will not answer the general purpose, nor
interests of the world. Less might indeed suit for the conveyance of
mails; but any thing less would occasion such an additional expense in
unloading, transporting, and again loading goods, as would render the
tedious navigation of Cape Horn preferable.
_Lake Nicaragua, &c._
The next to be considered, and perhaps the last and the best channel
by which a communication between the Atlantic and the Pacific could be
opened up, and safely carried on, is through central America, or the
Republic of Guatemala, by means of the River St. Juan and the Lakes
Nicaragua and Managua, or, as the latter is more generally called, (p. 096)
Leon. These lakes are connected with each other by a river, and are
navigable for ships; Nicaragua for ships of the line. The River St.
Juan forms the outlet of both into the Atlantic Ocean, and is,
according to Estella, navigable throughout its course for ships of
large burden. The mouth of the St. Juan, according to the late survey
by Capt. Owen, lays in 10°53' N. lat. and in 83°40' W. long. Leon, the
capital of the province in which Lake Managua is situated, and from
which the name of Leon is generally given to the latter, stands,
according to the best Spanish authorities, in 12°20' N. lat. and
86°45' W. long.; and its port, Rialejo, on the Pacific, in 12°29'50"
N. lat., and 87°6' W. long. From the mouth of the River St. Juan to
Rialejo, in a bearing of N. 66° W. the distance is 235 miles; and this
bearing runs nearly through the centre of the lakes and the course of
the River St. Juan. From the point where the River St. Juan issues
from the Lake Nicaragua to the point where the River Lapita, which
issues from Lake Managua, falls into the former, the distance, taken
on the best maps, is about 95 miles. Rialejo is situated on a river of
the same name, which is deep, and capable of holding in the harbour
200 sail of the largest ships. The harbour is well protected from the
force of the Pacific, and from storms, by an island stretching out
before it, with two channels between it and the main land; the one
opening to the south-east, and the other to the north-west. The
adjacent country is very fertile, but the place itself is reckoned
unhealthy, owing to some swamps in the vicinity and to the southward;
but which, it is believed, might be drained and cleared, which would
render the climate salubrious, or, at least, as much so as any
tropical climate can be to Europeans.
Lake Nicaragua, in its broadest part, is about 35 miles: it has
several considerable islands, some of them active volcanoes, and all
of them fertile. The country around its shores is stated to be very
healthy and very fertile, and studded with high peaks, mostly
volcanic, and many of them, on both sides, volcanoes in activity. At
the point on its north-east corner, where the River St. Juan issues
from it, there is (according to some of our best maps) erected the
castle of St. Carlos; and lower down, about 16 miles on the banks (p. 097)
of the river, is placed the castle of St. Juan, which castle was taken
by the English in 1780. Alcedo says that this river is navigable for
ships of large size; but others add, that during the dry season, when
the river is low, in one or two places the navigation is obstructed by
sand banks, which, however, could easily be removed by a deepening
machine, such as that used for a similar purpose on the Clyde. Lake
Managua in its western shore approaches in its southern portion to
within 8 to 9 miles of the Pacific; and here the conical peak range
appears to be discontinued and broken. So also it is in the route from
Leon to Rialejo, a distance of 21 miles. The next nearest point of
communication is to the southward of the town of Grenada, situate on
the upper part of Lake Nicaragua, westward to the port of St. Juan,
which runs considerably into the country from the Pacific. Here the
distance from the lake to the sea is 10 miles. The next point of
communication is from the neighbourhood of the town of Nicaragua to
the bottom of the Gulf of Papagayo, the distance being about 15 miles.
The river Partido flows from the S. E. through a course of fully 60
miles, and enters the Pacific at the bottom of the Gulf of Papagayo.
At this point, also, the volcanic peaks and the ridge appear to be
interrupted, and very low, thereby rendering a passage more probable
and easy. On the neck of land, also, between the upper part of Lake
Nicaragua and the Pacific, there are situated in three different
places between the Pacific and the interior part, three lakes, which,
while it shows the low nature of the coast, tends also to shorten very
considerably in this otherwise very narrow neck (12 miles), the space
that intervenes between the lake and the ocean.
The American coast of the Pacific is, in fact, bordered with an
alluvial plain, varying in breadth, which tends still more to lessen
the breadth of the high lands in every quarter. Between the bottom of
the Gulf of Papagayo to Lake Nicaragua, the distance, the alluvial
strip included, is, (see Journal R. G. S. vol. vi.), only 29,880
English yards, nearly 15 geographical miles. The highest point of land
that intervenes, is only 133-1/2 Spanish feet (the Spanish foot is
0.9267 English) above the level of the sea, and only 19 feet above (p. 098)
the level of the lake. The lake is very deep, and at this point is
said to be 15 fathoms. The surface of the lake is thus 133-1/2 Spanish
feet above the level of both oceans. The tide in the Pacific in the
Gulf of Papagayo rises about 11 feet, decreasing in its rise towards
the north, and increasing its rise towards the south. When Mr. Canning
proclaimed that he had "_called a new world into existence_," he
ought, as he then might, to have kept these places, the key to both
worlds, in his power, and in the power of his country.
Some Spanish authorities state, that Lake Nicaragua has a
communication with the Pacific, but at what point does not appear, nor
is it probable. Others state that it has a tide in it like the ocean;
and if so, this certainly indicates a communication with it by some
low and level channel, where the tide from the sea drives back the
flow of waters from the lake. To ascertain these points are objects of
great importance, and well worthy the attention of the civilized
world; and the wonder is, that it has not before this time been
attempted. All the old and best Spanish writers, who wrote either from
access to the best materials, or from practical information regarding
the Spanish territories in South America, but more especially Estalla
and Alcedo, mention, in the most pointed manner, that, by the places
which have just been considered, the nearest and the safest channel
would be found, nay actually existed, whereby a communication could be
opened up between the Atlantic and the Pacific; and farther, that the
possession and the command of Fort St. Juan and the river St. Juan on
the one hand, and of the port of Rialejo on the other, gave the holder
and possessor of them the key to and the command of both oceans. Like
the Gulf of Darien, all entrance into or examination of this quarter
of America by foreigners, or travellers in general, was prohibited by
the Spanish government, under the punishment of death for a violation
of the law. The Spaniards were particularly averse to and jealous of
England, or Englishmen, becoming acquainted with this portion of
America.
In some one of the points mentioned, and most probably from Lake
Managua to Rialejo, or from Lake Nicaragua to the Gulf of Papagayo,
the best line for a communication between the Atlantic and the (p. 099)
Pacific will be found. The shores of Lake Nicaragua are tolerably
well cultivated, and it has several harbours. Numerous streams flow
into it from all sides, but particularly from the north. The river St.
Juan is a considerable stream--as large, say the Spanish writers, as
the Guadalquiver in its lower course. In a distance so short, a canal,
fit to bear ships of the very largest tonnage, could be cut, at
certainly no very heavy expense; say, at the rate of 300,000_l._ for
10 miles. Even if the river St. Juan should not be found to be
navigable, and that it might be most advisable to cut a canal along
its banks, from the Atlantic to the lake, the distance is not very
great (45 or 50 miles), and the country presents no insuperable
obstacles to it; on the contrary, it is believed to be easy of access.
This distance might be cut for 675,000_l._--a small sum even joined to
the other, when the immense object to be attained is considered. The
choice of position, after considering attentively every point, will
remain between Chagre to Panama, and between St. Juan and Nicaragua to
Rialejo, as to which is the best line for a water communication; for
it is pretty clear that the lines to the eastward and to the southward
of Panama, narrow although the neck of land certainly is in these
parts, can only be looked to as points for a speedy road communication
in some, and for small craft in the others.
The jealousy of the government of Spain formerly sealed up every
possible line of communication between the Atlantic and the Pacific,
in all the places mentioned, from the rest of the world; and it is
probable that the jealousy, and also the poverty and inability of the
new governments lately started up in these parts may continue to do
so, if they are allowed to do so, or if they remain unaided in the
enterprise by foreign capital, and not be impelled thereto by foreign,
but particularly European influence. A glance at the map of these
parts of America, and at a map of the world, and a moment's reflection
and consideration bestowed on the great interests that depend upon it,
that would be laid open and connected by such a communication, is
sufficient to show the prodigious benefits which would therefrom
flow to the human race, and especially to the governments and the (p. 100)
people of North and South America, and those fine but comparatively
poor and miserable portions of this globe. The treasures and the
labours of nations would be well bestowed in completing such an
undertaking. Laying open such a communication would do more to people,
to cultivate, and to civilize the world, than any other effort--than
all other efforts made by the world at large, when combined and
brought together. No nation in the world is so deeply interested in
seeing a proper communication through the best of the channels pointed
out laid open, as Great Britain; and no other nation could so well
undertake it as she can. The immense empire which is rising under her
flag in New Holland; the large territory which she would thereby bring
within the sphere of cultivation and civilization on the west coast of
North America, to the north of Colombia River, where both the climate
and the soil are good; the vast and important trade which she has with
China, and may yet have with all the beautiful islands in the Pacific,
with Japan, and with all Eastern Siberia; and the very great trade
which she has, and would have with all the shores of America on the
Pacific,--all render the attainment of the object contemplated
peculiarly her interest, and peculiarly her province to undertake,
support, complete, and protect, in a way and on a scale worthy of the
intelligence, the enterprize, the strength, and the resources of her
government and her people. The number of people, and the traffic which
it would in time add to the present trade and population of the world,
exceed the powers of calculation.
Taking Lake Nicaragua as the point for the communication between the
two seas, the calculations which have been made as to periods and
distances connected with the conveyance of mails from Europe, in order
to cross the Pacific, will not be materially different from those
which would arise were Panama to be chosen as the point of
communication. Confining every thing to this route, it is necessary to
consider and to show what advantage trade and commerce would derive
from it; what extent of commerce would pass through this line of
communication;, and what revenue could reasonably, and with propriety,
be raised therefrom, in order to prove a remuneration for the (p. 101)
expense of the undertaking.
The official records of British trade and commerce, and also the
official records of the trade and commerce of the United States, will
enable us to estimate these points just alluded to, for the present
period, with considerable accuracy. From both records, the following
extent and amount of imports and exports, and tonnage, engaged in
transporting these, are selected; premising that, as regards both
countries, the value of each is, without either freight or charges:
and as regards the former, viz. Great Britain, the value taken is what
is denominated, in the Customs return, "_the declared value_," and
which, exclusive of freight and charges, is considerably below the
real amount. The commerce of both states mentioned, with all the
countries about to be enumerated, would most certainly pass through
the channel already alluded to, besides a considerable portion more
from other countries, but which is uncertain.
_Great Britain with_
Exports. Imports. Tonnage Tonnage
1834 1833 Inwards. Outwards.
China 842,852 3,528,635 29,308 8,887
New South Wales 716,014 } 12,400 29,567
Java 410,273 } 2,435 4,289
Philippine Islands 76,618 } 3,163,049 1,958 728
Siam 19,742 } " 337
E. Indies & Ceylon, 1/2 1,289,284 } 37,731 45,416
New Zealand 936 } 382 3,650
Chili 896,221 } 7,415 6,532
Peru 229,235 } 1,240,358 2,768 2,176
Mexico, 1/4 114,902 } 1,845 1,498
Whale Fisheries, 1/3 100,000 11,353 11,007
Guatemala, 1/3 10,122 10,122 136
---------- --------- -------- --------
£4,606,199 8,042,164 107,731 114,087
--------
Freight & charges, &c. 921,235 107,731
Foreign & Colonial 1/4 1,381,858 -------
---------- 6,303,093 Total tonnage 221,818
----------- -------
Total British trade £14,345,257
-----------
Exclusive of specie--the amount of which, from the western coasts (p. 102)
of America, cannot be less than 10,000,000 dollars yearly to Great
Britain, and perhaps half as much to the United States. The value of
British imports from Western America is not given in the official
tables in any tangible shape, and therefore the imports are taken to
be the same as the exports. The amount of imports from China is taken
correctly from the tables; and the value of all the rest, as near as
possible, from the same tables, in proportion; the whole being entered
to all countries east of the Cape, China excepted; but in this amount
also the amount for freight and charges should, it is thought, be
added. The proportion of foreign and colonial produce, &c. to British
manufactures exported, is, according to the official tables, as near
as may be, the proportion taken. The value of the whole British trade
to the places specified, may therefore be fairly taken at
17,500,000_l._ exports and imports, and exclusive of the profits
thereon.
Next comes the trade which the United States have with all these
places. In this there are more precise data, as the value both of
exports and imports is given in their tables; but it may be observed,
that the amount, both as regards imports and exports, is given
exclusive of freights and charges, which in almost all the articles
carried is greater in proportion, as regards the American trade, than
in British produce and manufactures. It may also be observed, that the
whole trade which the United States have with all countries to the
eastward of the Mauritius, would pass through, and return through, the
communication made in central America, as the nearest and the best
route for them. The following was the trade and tonnage of the United
States with the places specified in 1835:--
_United States with_ (p. 103)
Imports. Exports. Tonnage Tonnage
Inwards. Outwards.
British East Indies, dolls. 2,293,012 406,543 7,400 5,655
Dutch ditto 582,159 581,149 3,497 8,669
Spanish ditto 283,685 15,919 2,647 222
Asia generally 377,842 434,037 479 2,593
China 7,892,327 1,010,483 15,550 8,123
Mexico, 1/2 4,033,034 5,265,053 18,225 15,768
Chili 787,409 1,476,355 2,535 9,191
Peru 618,412 58,863 493 685
South Seas 27,348 97,169 39,506 280
N. W. Coast America " 118,813 45,886
---------- ---------- -------- -------
16,595,228 9,464,384 136,218 51,216
1/4 freights, &c. &c. 4,123,807 2,388,093 51,216 -------
---------- ---------- --------
20,719,035 11,852,477 187,434
11,852,477 ---------- --------
----------
Total United States 32,571,512
Ditto specie 5,000,000
-----------
Grand total, dollars 37,571,512--Sterling, £7,827,398 at 4_s._2_d._
-----------
_General Trade and Tonnage._
Value Trade. Extent Tonnage.
British £17,500,000 221,818
United States 7,827,398 187,434
----------- -------
Total £25,327,398 409,252 tons.
----------- -------
To the above should be added all the specie sent both by Great Britain
and the United States to the Eastern World, particularly to China, to
purchase cargoes, from the States alone about 7,000,000 dolls.; also
all the tonnage which goes, or would go, from one coast to another in
the three republics of Venezuela, Guatemala, and Mexico. To these
states, such a communication would prove of inestimable value, and
tend very greatly to add to the revenue to be obtained from the (p. 104)
traffic by it. There are other nations, also, besides Great Britain
and the United States, which traffic with the quarters of the world
already specifically alluded to, particularly France, Spain, and
Holland; but no accurate account of such trade has hitherto come in
the writer's way; though, taken collectively, it must be to a
considerable amount. Moreover, the whole trade between Holland and
Java, and between Spain and the Philippine Islands, would pass by the
channel under consideration, and the trade which both nations has with
these places is well known to be very considerable.
Such as it has been described is the trade at this moment; a sure
foundation upon which the magnificent undertaking under consideration
would, at the outset, have to build. The increased and increasing
communications through the grand thoroughfare goes beyond calculation,
and would most certainly exceed every thing that ever has been seen,
or that ever can be witnessed, in any other portion of this globe. The
trade of mighty empires would sink into insignificance, when compared,
in all their present magnitude, with what it would become one hundred
years hence. Admitting that it cost 1,000,000_l._ to complete the
navigable communication, (and there are good grounds to believe that
it could be done for one-half of the sum,) the question or point next
to be considered is, what would the revenue be, which could be derived
from it? To exact a per centage on the value of the commerce which
passes through it would be uncertain, and liable to evasion, and
consequently give much trouble, and occasion much vexation; and
therefore it would be best to exact so much per ton, the exact extent
of which the register of each ship or vessel so passing through the
canal would at once and readily determine. The question is, What
should the sum so levied, or the toll, actually come to be? Ten
shillings per ton would certainly be a moderate sum; and taking it so
it will be shown how it will pay at the outset.
_Cost and Revenue._ (p. 105)
Revenue 410,000 tons yearly, at 10_s._ £205,000
--------
Capital 1,000,000_l._ interest 5 per cent £50,000
Dividend in Stock 10 per cent 100,000
Expenses, management, and repairs 20,000
Surplus fund 35,000
------- £205,000
--------
Thus affording from the outset a fair and profitable return, and which
may reasonably be expected to be doubled in a very few years
afterwards.
_Conveyance Mails and Passengers._
Hitherto the matter has been considered entirely as relates to the
practicability and probable expenditure to be incurred in carrying the
Plan into effect, and the remuneration to be obtained from the Plan
when completed. It yet remains to show the advantages which will be
obtained in the courses and distances by this route, as compared with
other routes, and also with the route by the North Pole--even were
this latter practicable throughout the year, but which it almost
certainly is not. It has elsewhere been shown how a communication
across any part of this Isthmus, even by an ordinary road, can be made
to extend, and to accelerate the mail communications between Great
Britain and all the western coasts of America, and more especially
with the most eastern parts of the eastern world, and her own rising
empire in New Holland. Nothing calls forth the enterprize and the
energies of mankind, equal to the rapidity and regularity of
correspondence: and without this, no country can either improve or
advance in cultivation or civilization.
The comparative distances by the several lines of communication will
stand as follow:--
Geo. Miles.
Falmouth, direct to Rialejo 4650
Rialejo to Colombia River 3000
---- 7650
----
London to Icy Cape, over the North Pole 3870 (p. 106)
Icy Cape to Colombia River, by Oonoolashka 2745
---- 6615
----
London to Icy Cape, over the Pole 3870
Icy Cape to Canton 4200
---- 8070
----
Falmouth direct to Gulf Papagayo 4650
Papagayo to Canton, by Owhyhee 9350
---- 14,000
------
London to Icy Cape, over the Pole 3870
Icy Cape to Sydney, New South Wales 6600
---- 10,470
------
Falmouth to Rialejo, by Jamaica 5530
Rialejo direct to Sydney, New South Wales 7400
---- 12,930
------
Falmouth to Colombia River, by L. Nicaragua 8345
Ditto ditto Cape Horn 13,100
------ 4755 diff.
------
Falmouth to Sydney direct, westward 12,400
Ditto to ditto, by Cape of Good Hope 6,205
Cape to Sydney direct 6,470
----- 12,670
------
Falmouth to Cape Good Hope 6205
Cape Good Hope to Trincomalee 4720
Trincomalee to Batavia 1750
Batavia to Sydney, by Hobart Town 4085
---- 16,760
------
Falmouth to Rialejo, by Fayal, &c. 5530
Rialejo to Canton, by Owhyhee 9300
---- 14,830
------
Rialejo to Sydney, New South Wales, by
Otaheite 7500
Panama to Sydney 7900
---- 15,400
------
Falmouth to Cape of Good Hope 6205 (p. 107)
Cape of Good Hope to Trincomalee 4640
Trincomalee to Canton, by Batavia 3580
---- 14,425
------
Falmouth to Rialejo 5530
Rialejo to Pekin 8000
---- 14,130
------
Falmouth to Cape of Good Hope 6205
Cape of Good Hope to Pekin, by Canton, &c. 9660
---- 15,865
------
Falmouth to Port Culebra, by Barbadoes, &c. 5530
Port Culebra to Jeddo, Japan 7250
---- 12,780
------
Falmouth to Cape of Good Hope, by Madeira 6205
Cape of Good Hope by Batavia, &c. to Jeddo 8300
---- 14,505
------
Falmouth to Rialejo by Barbadoes, &c. 5530
Rialejo to Manilla 8860
---- 14,390
------
Falmouth to Cape of Good Hope, by Madeira 6205
Cape of Good Hope to Manilla, by Batavia 6720
---- 12,925
------
Falmouth to Rialejo, by Barbadoes, &c. 5530
Rialejo to Kamschatka 6000
---- 11,530
------
Falmouth to Cape of Good Hope, by Madeira 6205
Cape of Good Hope to Batavia 5200
Batavia to Kamschatka by Canton 4530
---- 15,935
------
London to Icy Cape, over the Pole 3870
Icy Cape to Kamschatka 1280
---- 5,150
------
Thus it is evident, that were the passage over the North Pole open (p. 108)
and practicable at all seasons, but which it is not, the route by
it would be so much shorter for every part from Europe to the ports in
Asia and in America, situated on the Northern Pacific, as to be vastly
preferable; but when it is recollected that this passage can only be
open for a very few months in the course of the year--and also
considering the winds and the weather which, during that brief space
of time, would certainly be met with in the northern route, and the
utter impossibility that there would be of procuring any assistance in
that route, should accidents occur,--it is clear, that vessels would
almost as speedily, and certainly much more safely, run over the
distances by the western route, even to the places more near; while,
as regards those which are more distant, there can and need be no
comparison drawn.
It will also from these references be observed, that the distances to
all the eastern parts of Asia, and the north-west coast of America,
are, with a very few exceptions (in these, too, the distances are
nearly equal), nearer than the distances would be, either taken by the
Cape of Good Hope or Cape Horn, the only routes always open; while,
considering the winds and the seas which are met with in either of
these routes, it is plain that ships would run over the distance by
the western route through central America, even to the most distant
parts in eastern Asia that have been adverted to, sooner and much
easier than they could do by either of the former. The saving of
insurance alone in the route by the mild tropical climates, and also
of wear and tear in ships by the same channel, compared to what all
these would amount to in the navigation by the other routes, to say
nothing of the saving of time in voyages, would be objects of great
importance to commercial and nautical men.