WINTER TRAVEL AFOOT
From the standpoint of pure pedestrianism winter travel usually has but
little appeal yet it represents to the uninitiated marvelous revelations
in scenic display, for the sedentarian, who is housed in the vitiated
air of stuffy steam heated offices, a stimulation to the highest degree
of physical well being, and, being feasible, projects one’s vacation
opportunities to include the year around.
Once experienced the exhilaration of winter travel will enslave you
whether your indulgence is for the annual hunt in which you are
responding to the issue of the Red Gods calling for snowshoe or ski
trips across the waste places, or, again you may follow the trail of the
Far North trapper in which case your frequently moved camps necessitate
mushing behind a trail sled drawn by huskies or breaking a trail ahead
of a bush toboggan propelled by your own power. Again perchance some get
rich quick frenzy pushes you into the frozen regions in exploratory
reconnaissance for precious metals.
Just what causes most people to refrain from outdoor life in winter is
the fear of cold. Yet properly regarded the winter is the healthiest
time of the year. Physically greater exertion is necessary in winter to
enable the body to generate heat sufficient for protection against cold
and this is compensated for in the usually increased difficulties in
travel over road or forest snows. Pure tramping methods and kits for
summer must be modified to suit new conditions for doubtless you will
not have ground to walk upon hence you must take to snowshoes or to ski
for the snow work, the body covering must be adequate for additional
protection against the elements, and the shelter and bed must be
especially adapted to your needs.
Snow-shoeing is becoming more and more popular among lovers of outdoor
life. Without them northern bush travel in winter would be impossible
because in dense forested areas the brush grows close and the ground is
filled with fallen trees and rocks and the snow lies loose and powdery.
Snow-shoeing is really at its best after the middle of January when the
early snows have packed down and the weather is pretty constantly
freezing.
So much has been written of the great tournaments of ski jumping by the
Scandinavian experts that one may lose sight of the fact that ski
running for the amateur is an unparalleled winter sport in any snow
covered section and is a necessary part of the equipment of mountaineers
whose journeyings take them far into the wilderness probably with a pack
outfit on their backs.
In this country the winters are as a rule mild and pleasant yet the
average American does not appreciate the benefits to be acquired from
the use of the ski or the exhilarating and exciting sport to be had with
them. The ski (pronounced “skee”) is used for walking (really
toboganning or skating) over the deep snow, protecting the walker from
breaking through and becoming immersed in a fleecy bath. In regions
where the snow gets to the depth of 5 to 7 feet the ski is intensely
utilitarian, being a real necessity for travel as otherwise travelers
would become hopelessly buried in the drifts and perhaps perish. In this
country it is becoming more popular each year and in many sections it is
replacing the snowshoe for winter travel.
With ski one may slide down hills of snow or ice, he can walk over
drifts without fathoming their depths and if sportively inclined and
trained he can speed downhill so fast that the sense of motion is lost
and the scenery is verily “snatched” past in rapid panorama. Where the
country is reasonably open and not too rough the snow becomes fairly
solid. Ski are superior to snowshoes and travel is far faster than with
the web shoe.
In our mountainous regions there is good snow-shoeing and skiing at
elevations of from 200 to 3000 feet from December to April. The climate
here is commonly mild with days of continual melting--a temperature of
20 degrees or below being a rarity. The mountain snows are deep, forcing
our summer cruising methods to a matter of reminiscence, and this depth
increases very quickly as altitude is gained. At 5000 feet elevation the
Frost King’s mantle may be found to be 20 or 30 feet deep but at this
altitude few cabins for camp use can be depended upon.
Special cold weather clothing requirements are imperative for keeping
warm in camp and on the trail. Body warmth depends on several things.
First, the body’s ability to make heat, hence our attention to heat
forming foods. That this heat may reach all parts of the body and
especially the extremities which are so susceptible to cold, the
circulation of blood must be absolutely unimpeded by such things as
tight shoes, constricting waist bands or tight clothing anywhere.
Secondly, the surface of the skin must be insulated by a loosely woven
fabric covering (best of animal origin) which retains the heat in its
meshes yet allows an egress of moisture which is constantly
imperceptibly emanated by the pores of the skin and to a superlative
degree during exercise. Successive thin layers are found to be more
efficacious than one thick layer owing to the dead air interspaces.
The skin and its covering must be kept dry else freezing will ensue.
Aside from what moisture may come from the body, wet may come from
accidental immersion in streams or the air itself may be very humid--the
reason for our greater sensitiveness to wet cold than to dry cold.
A large factor of success in Arctic exploration has been the choice of
proper clothing. These explorers have followed down to the last detail
the natural clothing of the Eskimo modeled after the protective covering
of Arctic animals consisting of the impervious integument itself next
the body or with silk intervening. This fits loosely at the knee, waist,
and wrist, enabling the evaporation of constant perspiration to the
open air, especially during exercise of any kind. The body is thus kept
dry and no energy is lost in heat making.
The usual idea of the amount of clothing necessary to keep the body warm
and to prevent freezing in extreme cold is erroneous. It is not so much
a question of cold as the degree of dampness on the body surface which
is affected _by_ the cold. Nearly every death from freezing is caused by
either getting too warm and then wet through perspiration or accidental
immersion in water. The former can be avoided by having the clothing
sufficiently loose to allow good circulation of air and by thus _keeping
uncomfortably cool_ the tendency toward perspiration is overcome. While
quiet or physically inactive one may wear much clothing as there is
little danger of freezing, there being no dampness present, but if one
is active and perspiring and is then quiet there is great danger.
When any kind of moisture gets on the body there is only one way to get
rid of it--by the body heat. Clothing does not warm one, it only
_retains_ heat made by the body. The drawing away of heat reduces one’s
vitality as well as affecting the temperature of the body. Where one is
physically active it is advisable to wear ordinary weight warm winter
clothing of the temperate zone. Of materials wool is best next the
body, except in Arctic work where a suit of silk is worn under the fur
garments to prevent chafing. Two wool union suits, loosely fitting, will
be found enough. The pants should be of Mackinaw which is warm,
wearable, and to a certain extent water repellent. A flannel shirt or
Pontiac shirt comes next and for use when one is inactive and apt to
become chilled a heavy sweater coat with convertible collar is
indispensable. To break the wind a parka can be pulled over head and
trunk.
The parka is a garment made like a large hooded shirt coming to the
knee. The edge of the face opening in the hood has a ruff of wolverine,
wolf, or bear to protect the face. Wolverine is by all odds best as it
is the only fur upon which the breath will not congeal. The garment is
the most practical yet devised for very cold work. For use in the
Arctics it is made of squirrel or deer skin worn with the fur outside
and it is lined with the fur of some animal which will allow it to slip
on and off easily. The drill parka which is used to break the wind and
which is of particular interest to us is made on the same model only
larger as it is at times worn as the outermost garment of all. The fur
garments are seldom used by those who are experienced when working on
the trail, they are held in reserve until camp is reached. If in actual
exercise the parka would be too hot and would cause perspiration to
start.
Particular attention should be paid to the protection of the hands,
ears, face, and feet--the body will take care of itself. For the hands
Scotch wool mitts will be ample--mitts rather than gloves for the reason
that there is but one space in each to be kept warm whereas in gloves
there is a separate place in each finger where heat must be maintained.
A larger pair of leather mitts worn over all will be found to retain
heat besides resisting wear much better than wool. The ears and face are
protected by a wool cap or llama combination cap and sleeping hood. The
hood of the parka with its fur edged face opening cannot be excelled for
head and neck protection. The face is to some extent exposed necessarily
for breathing and the nose may be expected to suffer some. The intense
light reflected from the snow will necessitate the use of smoked
goggles, those with rubber frames being best as no metal will then touch
the sensitive flesh.
Since much of your comfort in outdoor winter work or pastime depends
upon the feet a few words concerning their proper care is not amiss
here. Above all the feet must be kept dry. They are pretty apt to
perspire and this moisture can be absorbed by filling the bottom of the
shoe packs with straw which acts also as a cushion. At the day’s end you
will find the socks dry and the straw wet--the desirable condition as
wet socks will freeze and the feet become chilled. The best foot
covering in dry snow is the oiled moccasin or shoe pac. No tight shoes
are permissible in snow work at all for they will restrict the
circulation by which the warmth of the body is carried to the
extremities. For wet snow the outer foot covering should be of rubber,
since leather when wet freezes and becomes stiff and for this the
lumberman’s rubber _over_ which has a laced leather top with rubber foot
cover is unexcelled. Next the foot wear two pairs of heavy wool
lumberman’s socks reaching nearly to the knee.
If one is lost in the winter woods a bivouac constructed somewhat along
the following lines will be found adequate for the needs of comfort and
health. For cold weather shelter select for the site a hollow deep in
the woods well surrounded by trees where all will be sheltered from the
biting winds. Such a place for the summer camp would not be best because
a night’s rain might flood the hollow. First find a wind break of
cliff, rocks or fallen tree or build one of rocks or down timber. If it
is rainy make a slant roof of poles and shingle with browse or bark and
with a top cover of more poles to hold all in place. On the prairie
where a windbreak is impossible build two fires at right angles to the
wind and get between them. The smoke will blow away in columns parallel
with your body.
If the snow is deep shovel to the ground, using the toe of the snow shoe
or a flattened stick, clear a triangular space about 7 by 8 feet at
whose small end, placed downhill, is put the fire, and at whose small
side lays the bed. Walls of snow all around make an excellent wind
break. On deep snow the fire may rest on a platform of green sappy logs
such as balsam. Where the shelter is pitched the snow is tramped solid.
In such a camp with a rabbit skin blanket and an all night fire one may
sleep comfortably on the coldest of nights.
In sleeping out even if the days are mild the nights are pretty sure to
be cold. A goodly supply of birch bark kindling and a surplus of dry
wood should be laid up. It is no fun to awake chilled to the bone from
the icy air and have to fumble about with wet half burnt fagots. Build
the fire to leeward and within four feet of the bed. If it is very cold
build it above the level of your sleeping place for you thus get more
heat and less smoke. Stake two back logs behind the fire. In very cold
weather build the fire against the windbreak and when it is burned down
rake the embers forward, rebuild the fire in front, spread boughs where
the fire was and lie there on the warm ground. This can be repeated
several times during the night. If done thus there need be no danger of
freezing.
In cold weather in the North, with probably the means of transportation
reduced to a dog team or a back pack, the ration list must be cut down
to absolute necessities. To facilitate expediency in the handling of the
outfit in the cold the range of variety had best be limited. The ideal
cold weather ration meeting this requirement is pemmican. At this time
of the year the fats should predominate as it does in pemmican. This
food keeps well, is very compact and can be mixed in a variety of ways
palatable to a hungry man on the trail. Pemmican may be made at home by
the method suggested in chapter on “Ration Lists.” On such trips do not
rely on baking bread en route because of lack of cooking conveniences
and time. Also the moisture in common bread will freeze so use
unleavened bread or that ready made hardtack or ship’s biscuit as the
staple. One pound of pemmican and pilot bread per day will sustain a man
at hard work.
Vary the bread ration with dessicated vegetables. Now if you will add to
the Arctic ration the above mentioned pemmican varied with jerked meat
and the hardtack varied with dessicated vegetables, tea, and dried milk
you will have a well balanced, dry, compact, palatable, and energy
yielding diet.
APPENDIX
_Tramping Kit Check List_
Wear.
Flannel shirt.
Whipcord pants.
Belt.
Wool unionsuit.
Wool socks.
Felt hat.
Shoes or moccasins.
Pockets.
Map.
Jack knife.
Kerchief.
Waterproof match box.
Compass.
Pack.
Pack sack.
Wool sweater.
Extra socks.
Axe.
Small whetstone.
Goggles.
Shelter.
Leanto tent.
Blanket.
Browse bag.
Fishing outfit.
Camera and Film.
Medical supplies.
Emergency wound dressing.
Z O Adhesive plaster.
Tube vaseline.
Cathartic pills.
Aspirin tablets, 5 grains.
Sun Cholera Tablets.
Mosquito dope.
Toilet.
Tooth brush and soap.
Two crash towels.
Repair kit.
Thread and needles.
Safety pins.
Waxed linen thread and awl.
Mess kit.
Fry pan and cover.
Aluminum quart pot.
Aluminum quart cup.
Aluminum spoon.
Fork.
Small butcher knife in sheath.
Ration List. For one man one week.
Wheat flour 5 Lbs.
Corn meal 4 Lbs.
Bacon 5 Lbs.
Beans 1¾ Lbs.
Sugar 1¾ Lbs.
Dried fruit 1 Lb.
Rice 1 Lb.
Baking powder ¼ Lb.
Tea ¼ Lb.
Salt ¼ Lb.
Pepper Small amount.
Dried Egg substituting a portion of meat ration.
Dried soup and vegetables for a portion of bean and flour ration.
Wool soap, 1 bar.
Matches, can of 500.
* * * * *
Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber:
to the unitiated=> to the uninitiated {pg 51}
ten tounce canvas=> ten ounce canvas {Pg 55}
lines as diagramed=> lines as diagrammed {Pg 84}