FOOTWEAR
The most important requisite for the pedestrian is mobility. This in
turn depends upon properly conditioned feet and a covering permitting
the greatest ease in action and freedom from injury. So important is
this physical item in the case of any one who walks that it may be taken
as a criterion of one’s ability to cover ground. Granting other things
equal, the successful army is the one which marches best; hence one of
the greatest military problems of the day is a study of the proper care
and housing of man’s pedal extremities. The measure of efficiency of the
draft horse on icy pavements, of northern Indian packers over unbroken
woods portages, and of the amateur pedestrian’s initial hike over
interurban roads depends essentially upon being properly shod.
In a study of the foot we find it composed mostly of bones and that
their movements are managed by a complex arrangement of muscles, in
nearly every case by several sets working in unison. Any mechanical
displacement of one bone throws not only all bones out of harmonious
working order but also disarranges their accompanying muscles and the
nerves attached to them, resulting in inefficient action and in
radiating pains. The fleshy parts of the foot are at the sole, ball, on
the bottom of the heel and along the outer border and they play the part
of protection where it is most needed. The bottom flesh forms pads in
walking and supporting the body, insuring springiness and lessening the
jar which is incidental to locomotion. Shoes that do not fit the fleshy
parts of the foot properly cause friction when walking and concomitant
aches and pains.
[Illustration: X-RAY OF FOOT
Properly housed in form fitting shoes]
Nature intended man to walk with bare feet but following the dictates of
necessity as his environment demanded foot protection and later of an
all too dominant dictate of fashion he took to wearing foot covering.
Since the feet do an immense amount of work Nature has so constructed
them that they will adapt themselves to many conditions. It is our duty
to adjust the foot covering to assist Nature in protecting the foot.
Commonly the fitting of shoes is influenced by a consideration of
fashion and style and not comfort, with a resulting condition which most
people cheerfully accept, thinking that by so doing their feet will
appear small and neat but really causing a cramping and narrowing of the
ball and toes, with possible chafing, blistering, callus or
corns--conditions incompatible with walking efficiency.
The physical effects of ill fitting shoes are unfortunately evident with
most people today. In addition if one is not properly outfitted on a
walking trip the psychological effect is also bad, resulting in
discomfort, reduction of buoyancy of spirit, mental irritability and
diminished traveling capacity. He becomes an object of pity, his
enjoyment is turned to grief and his value as a pedestrian is in a
certain measure destroyed.
An entire reversion of shoe fitting ideas should be made and the shoes
made to fit the feet instead of the feet to fit the shoes. The feet are
not to be carelessly jammed into any sort of a container. A good shoe
cover must protect the foot, it must give security and be comfortable
and durable without changing the foot shape in any way. To secure these
things the fitting should have precedence over all other conditions.
Properly fitted the shoe allows the foot to take practically the shape
it would if it were not encased in a shoe. The last should be straight
and from the outset do not regard the sole as too broad. There should be
sufficient width at the end to allow the toes to lay on the inner sole
of the shoe in a normal position, for when the weight of the body is
placed on the foot the toes spread apart a little. Nature thus demands
toe room. With the full weight of the body on the foot the toes should
be able to wriggle about freely in a shoe. Walking causes the feet to
lengthen one-half inch and broaden at the toe one-half inch. Provide for
this swelling caused by the flattening of the arch and congestion of
blood in the exercised region. The shoe should be long enough to extend
well forward of the toes--two-thirds of an inch longer than the longest
measurement of the naked foot; the inner sole border should be straight,
broad across the ball and for average work on the roads need not be
heavy but above all things it should conform to the foot. Have the heel
fit snugly but across the ball or front of the foot arch no compression
at all.
The tendency is to overdo foot covering, getting the shoes too heavy.
There is no need of lugging around extra weight. Aim for the minimum in
leg weariness. Thick soles interfere with the leverage action of the big
toe. The tramper covers territory and must look for ease, flexibility
and lightness if at a sacrifice of the durability of the heavier goods.
The proper shoe should conform to the following specifications:--it
should have a soft upper, making the total shoe height five inches,
there should be no lining or box toe cap, the heels should be broad and
welted and only three lifts high, the sole of one thickness. The shoe
should be loose enough for free wriggling of the toes within and permit
of the insertion of a cork innersole which serves as a kind of cushion
for the tread and can be removed at night to dry out.
The shoe is the product of civilization and properly chosen is
preferable for pedestrianism in the city and on country roads. Also in
mountain work where wear is excessive and one must use calks or hob
nails for security the heavy soled light uppered ankle-high shoe is
advisable. Hobs of the small coneheaded Hungarian variety are good on
rough rocky country or where there is smooth short grass and add
immensely to ease and comfort and safety in walking over mountain
trails. Use these hobs sparingly. They give better foot hold and greatly
save the sole and heel from wear. They should not extend through the
sole.
For wilderness tramping in general the adoption of an entirely different
sort of footwear is advisable. The real hikers--the men who make it a
business of going on long trips with back packs do not use shoes. They
wear the lightest, easiest wearing and most flexible foot covering they
can get--the moccasin. The moosehide moccasin is the footwear of the
Northwestern Indian who is the most tireless pedestrian in the world.
Next to him is the Canadian voyageur with his oil tan shoe packs. Were
the heavy soled shoe or boot the more satisfactory they would use it in
preference.
The moccasin is a better foot covering than one would think. If you walk
a few hundred miles in moccasins, on your return, you will be surprised
at your carriage. You will stand easier and not sag on your heels in the
clumsy attitude of the city man. In walking with moccasins you walk with
all your feet, you don’t have a great foot weight to lift around and no
binding heel or sole stiffness. One can walk noiselessly and is not
likely to slip on rocks or logs. Some contend that the average city man
has no license to tackle moccasins at least on the first week of the
hike. They are hard on soft footed people for a time at least but the
feet soon become accustomed to the change.
By the use of thick wool socks the foot comfort is still further
assured. If one desires he can get soled moccasins or those with double
bottom to prevent seam leaks, the outer sewed to the welt and the welt
sewed to the sole.
The moccasin is absolutely unequalled for warmth, it is light and
perfectly noiseless and has stood the test of ages by that race of
hunters, the American Indians, who originated also the camp, trail,
snow-shoe and canoe. One is, when equipped with them, more certain in
carrying a pack, he is not so apt to turn the ankle, and the whole
musculature of the foot is brought into play which is a great
desideratum in precarious climbing.
Of materials moosehide is popularly associated with moccasins. It does
not pretend to be waterproof but it is very durable and provides the
softest, lightest, and most comfortable footwear made. A pair weighs but
a few ounces and rolls up in a small compass, so an extra pair can be
nicely tucked away in a corner of the pack. Even if a man wears shoes
during the day a pair of moccasins should be taken along for a restful
change of wear about the evening camp fire. Moosehide and elkskin are at
present hard to procure hence the names are mainly trade terms.
Discriminating sportsmen can get the genuine moosehide cruising packs
from the Putnam Company, Minneapolis. For our purpose the oil tanned
pack of cowhide is more easily procurable and superior for general use
to the moosehide article. It can be kept pliable and a semblance to
being waterproof by the application of animal oils.
The shoe-pack is a boot shaped like a moccasin but with a higher top.
Either is preferable to a shoe for tramping because of their lightness
and softness to the feet. The upper should be high enough to make the
total pack height about ten inches.
No matter what footwear you choose you should provide for the wearing of
one or two pairs of heavy wool socks into whose tops are tucked the
pants leg, thus doing away with leggings. This may sound paradoxical to
the tenderfoot. The idea of housing the feet in summertime in heavy wool
socks! The notion nevertheless is based on experience. The thick are no
hotter on the feet than the thin. It is the leather that keeps the heat
in. Wool equalizes the moisture evaporation. If your work forces you
into wet places the temperature is modified. One can fish standing in
very cold water and not suffer. A sportsman can spend several weeks in
an almost normal condition of wet feet without suffering, even in mild
fall weather, since his wool socks keep his feet warm in spite of the
wet and cold. Where one perspires freely on dry tramping the
perspiration is taken up from the skin and transmitted by the wool
fibers to the outside of the sock where it is more easily evaporated.
In the coldest weather the feet are always warm when covered with heavy
wool socks and moccasins and it is the only successful combination for
use in snowshoes. For common tramping they are ideal, for the constant
exposure of the feet to the wet is to be anticipated and the thickness
of the wool softens the shock and pressure of foot work on rough trails,
diminishing the danger of friction and impact. In fitting shoes or
moccasins over your heavy wool socks allow a half size larger in length
and two letters in width over your street shoe. Even then your foot
covering will be about three times the bulk of your tight fashion-plate
town footwear.
The life of a good fitting, light weight wool sock worn with a good
fitting shoe is about 75 to 100 road miles or about a week’s wear in
constant marching under ordinary conditions. Whenever the softness of
wool is lost because of frequent washings discard them. Weston wears a
natural gray wool sock undyed.
Never start on a long hike with unbroken shoes. A quick way to break
them in rather than subject the tender feet to the trying ordeal is to
follow the plan of the United States Army as follows: Wearing the shoes
over wool socks stand in three inches of warm water for five minutes
until the leather is soft and pliable, then walk on a level surface for
an hour or until the shoes dry on the feet, to the shape of which the
pressure of the body weight and muscular action have forced the leather,
in drying, to conform. They will then be as comfortable as old shoes.
The one feature of shoe selection which seems to appeal to the average
sportsman is waterproofing. He will allow his sane ideas of size, shape,
weight and durability to run riot if only the salesman can prove his
assertions of the waterproof qualities of the item at hand. It happens
to be well nigh impossible to make leather really waterproof. If one
succeeds in impregnating the tanned skin with some water repelling
application the seams are apt to leak in worn shoes and the leather
treatment goes for naught. In fact waterproof footwear is just the
condition the tramper does _not_ want. In the first place it is a sin to
encase a perspiring foot in a shoe which retains all the effete matter
of perspiration which will soften and weaken the skin. There may be
conditions of wet snow where absolute dryness of the feet is paramount
but then one had best get the regular rubber overshoe. All that we
should expect of leather is that it will be impervious to water
sufficiently so as not to soak it up like a sponge. Wet feet won’t hurt
you but hot and sore feet always do; an occasional wet foot is far
better than a continual sweaty damp foot.
Moosehide at best is not water repellent and is good for dry trails and
dry snow work because of its porosity. Oil tanned calfskin shoes and
moccasins are the best. They should be kept soft and supple by the use
of one of the various dressings on the market or one compounded at home.
Perhaps nothing beats pure neatsfoot oil for leather dressing. It is a
natural animal oil free from acids and other substances deleterious to
leather life. It is the chief ingredient of many of the shoe greases and
waxes of commerce and is cheap and universally procurable. It should be
applied with the finger tips on the dried warm leather, rubbing it
carefully into seams, stitch holes, and threads to prevent their
rotting. The French Army dressing is composed of neatsfoot oil 7 parts,
and mutton tallow 3 parts. These heavier dressings interfere with the
evaporation of the perspiration causing the feet to sweat in warm
weather.
In drying wet shoes never place near a fire for this will result in a
hardening of the leather. It is better to heat oats or gravel and fill
the shoes to absorb the dampness. Moccasins can be stuffed with dry
browse of any kind or inverted over stakes driven in the ground not too
near the camp fire.
The pack should contain a ditty bag with a simple footwear repair
outfit. For leather working take along a light weight awl, sail-maker’s
needles and waxed thread with perhaps a repair patch of leather or
rawhide. Customarily after long use of shoes or moccasins the threads
break or wear away leaving seam leaks and one must be prepared to
remedy them. They will be found especially around the vamp at the toe
and the “T” heel joint. Clean out the old stitch holes back to where the
twine is sound and start your repair seam a couple of stitches back of
this.