"Elise, come here and put what this guide is saying into English," was
the command, and I flew to obey. To hear him tell what he knew was like
turning over the leaves of the Book of Les Baux; and I tried to do him
justice in my translation; but it was disheartening to see Lady
Turnour's lack-lustre gaze wander as dully about the rock-hewn barracks
of Roman soldiers as if she had been in her own lodging-house cellar,
and to be interrupted by her complaints of the cold wind as we went up
the silent streets, past deserted palaces of dead and gone nobles,
toward the crown of all--the Château.
Nothing moved her to any show of interest in this grave of mighty
memories, of mighty warrior princes, and of lovely ladies with names
sweet as music and perfume of potpourri. Wandering in a splendid
confusion of feudal and mediæval relics--walls with carved doorways, and
doorways without walls; beautiful, purposeless columns whose occupation
had long been gone; carved marvels of fireplaces standing up sadly from
wrecked floors of fair ladies' boudoirs or great banqueting halls, the
stout, painted woman broke in upon the guide's story to talk of any
irrelevant matter that jumped into her mind. She suddenly bethought
herself to scold Sir Samuel about "Bertie," from whom a letter had
evidently been forwarded, and who had been spending too much money to
please her ladyship.
"That stepson of yours is a regular bad egg," said she.
"Never you mind," retorted Sir Samuel, defending his favourite. "Many a
bad egg has turned over a new leaf."
My lip quivered, but I fixed my eyes firmly upon the guide, who was now
devoting his attention entirely to his one respectful listener. I was
ashamed of my companions, but I couldn't help catching stray fragments
of the conversation, and the involuntary mixing of Bertie's affairs with
the Religious Wars, and the destruction of Les Baux by Richelieu's
soldiers, had a positively weird effect on my mind. Bertie, it
seemed--(or was it Richelieu?) was invited to visit at the château of a
French marquis called de Roquemartine (or was it good King René, who
inherited Les Baux because he was a count of Provence?), and the château
was near Clermont-Ferrand. Lady Turnour was of opinion that it would be
well to make a condition before sending the cheque which Bertie wanted
to pay his bridge debts (or was he in debt because the Lady Douce and
her sister Stephanette of Les Baux had quarrelled?). If the advice of
Dane, the chauffeur, were taken, they would be motoring to
Clermont-Ferrand; and why not say to Bertie: "No cheque unless you get
us an invitation to visit the Roquemartines while you are there?" (Or
was it that they wanted an invitation to the boudoir of Queen Jeanne,
René's beloved wife, who lived at Les Baux sometimes, and had very
beautiful things around her--tapestries and Eastern rugs, and wondrous
rosaries, and jewelled Books of Hours?) Really, it was very
bewildering; but in my despair one drop of comfort fell. That château
near Clermont-Ferrand would prove a lodestar, and help Mr. Jack Dane to
lure the Turnours through chill gorges and over snowy mountains.
"Lodestar" really was a good word for the attraction, I thought, and I
would repeat it to the chauffeur. But it rose over the horizon of my
intellect probably because the guide talked of Countess Alix, last
heiress of the great House of Les Baux. "As she lay dying," he said,
"the star that had watched over and guided the fortunes of her house
came down from the sky, according to the legend, and shone pale and sad
in her bedchamber till she was dead. Then it burst, and its light was
extinguished in darkness for ever."
Eventually Sir Samuel's eye brightened for the Tudor rose decoration, in
the ruined château, relic of an alliance between an English princess and
the House of Les Baux; and Lady Turnour didn't interrupt once when the
guide told of the latest important discovery in the City of Ghosts.
"Near the altar of the Virgin here," he began, in just the right, hushed
tone, "they found in a tomb the body of a beautiful young girl. There
she lay, as the tomb was opened, just for an instant--long enough for
the eye to take in the picture--as lovely as the loveliest lady of Les
Baux, that famed princess Cecilie, known through Provence as Passe-Rose.
Her long golden hair was in two great plaits, one over either shoulder,
and her hands were crossed upon her breast, holding a Book of Hours. But
in a second, as the air touched her, she was gone like a dream; her
sweet young face, white as milk, and half smiling, her long dark
eyelashes, even the Book of Hours, all crumbled into dust, fine as
powder. Only the golden hair, tied with blue ribbon, was left; and when
you go to Arles you can see it in the Museum of Monsieur Mistral."
"Make a note of hair for Arles, Sam," said her ladyship, gravely; and
just as solemnly he obeyed, scribbling a few words in the pocket
memorandum-book in which the poor man industriously puts down all the
things which his wife thinks he ought to remember.
"Anything else interesting ever been found here?" she wanted to know.
"Any jewels or things of that sort?"
I passed the question on to the guide.
Many things had been found, he said: coins, vases, pottery, and mosaics.
Occasionally such things were turned up, though usually, nowadays, of no
great value; but it was the hope of finding something which brought the
gipsies. Often there were gypsies at Les Baux. They would go to Les
Saintes Maries, the place of the sacred church where the two sainted
Maries came ashore from Palestine in their little boat, and they would
pray to Sarah, whose tomb was also in that wonderful church. Had we seen
it yet? No? But it was not far. Many people went, though the great day
was on May twenty-fourth, when the Archbishop of Aix lowered the ark of
relics from the roof, and healed those of the sick who were true
believers. It was for Sarah, though, that the gipsies made their
pilgrimages. They thought that prayers at her tomb would bring them
whatever they desired; and sometimes, when they were able to come on as
far as Les Baux, they would wish at the tomb to find the buried
Phoenician treasure, for which many had searched generation after
generation, since history began, but none had ever found.
I did not say anything about the gipsies at the inn-window, but I saw
now that Mr. Dane had done wisely in sticking to his post. A
sixty-horse-power Aigle might largely make up for a disappointment in
the matter of treasure, even if she had to be towed down into the valley
by a horse.
"Calvé, and all the great singers, come here sometimes by moonlight in
their motors," went on the guide, "after the great musical festival of
Orange in the month of August. They stand on the piles of stone among
the ruins when all is white under the moon, and they sing--ah! but they
sing! It is wonderful. They do it for their own pleasure, and there is
no audience except the ghosts--and me, for they allow me to listen. Yet
I think, if our eyes could be opened to such things, we would see
grouped round a noble company of knights and ladies--such a company as
would be hard to get together in these days."
"Well, I would rather sing here in August than April!" exclaimed Lady
Turnour, with the air of a spoiled prima donna. And then she shivered
and wanted to go down to the car without waiting for the sunset, which,
after all, could only be like any other mountain sunset, and she could
see plenty of better ones next summer in Switzerland. She felt so
chilled, she was quite anxious about herself, and should certainly not
dare to start for Avignon until she had had a glass of steaming hot rum
punch or something of that sort, at the inn. Did the guide think she
could get it--and have it sent out to her in the car, as nothing would
induce her to go inside that little den?
The guide thought it probable that something hot might be obtained,
though there might be a few minutes' delay while the water was made to
boil, as it would be an unusual order.
A few minutes! thought I, eagerly, looking at the sun, which was
hurrying westward. I knew what "a few minutes" at such an inn would
mean--half an hour at least; and apparently I was no longer needed as an
interpreter. Without a thought of me, now that I had ceased to be
useful, Lady Turnour slipped her arm into her husband's for support (her
high-heeled shoes and the rough, steep streets had not been made for
each other), and began trotting down the hill, in advance of the guide.
They had finished with him, too, and were already deep in a discussion
as to whether rum punch, or hot whisky-and-water with sugar and lemon
were better, for warding off a chill. I didn't see why I shouldn't
linger a little on the wide plateau, with the Dead City looming above me
like a skeleton seated on a ruined throne, and half southern France
spread out in a vast plain, a thousand feet below.
It was wonderful there, and strangely, almost terribly still. Once the
sea had washed the feet of the cliff, dim ages ago. Now my eyes had to
travel far to the Mediterranean, where Marseilles gloomed dark against
the burnished glimmer of the water. I could see the Etang de Berre, too,
and imagine I saw the Aurelian Way, and gloomy old Aigues-Mortes, which
we were to visit later. At lunch we had talked of a poem of Mistral's,
which a friend of Mr. Dane's had put into French--a poem all about a
legendary duel. And it was down there, in that far-stretching field,
that the duel was fought.
As I looked I realized that the clouds boiling up from some vast
cauldron behind the world were choking the horizon with their purple
folds. They were beautiful as the banners of a royal army advancing over
the horizon, but--they would hide the sun as he went down to bathe in
the sea. He was embroidering their edges with gold now. I was seeing the
best at this moment. If I started to go back, I should have time to
pause here and there, gazing at things the Turnours had hurried past.
I went down slowly, reluctantly, the melancholy charm of the place
catching at my dress as I walked, like the supplicating fingers of a
ghost condemned to dumbness. There was one rock-hewn house I had wanted
to see, coming up, which Lady Turnour had scorned, saying "when you've
been in one, you've been in all." And she had not understood the guide's
story of a legend that was attached to this particular house. Perhaps if
she had she would not have cared; but now I was free I couldn't resist
the temptation of going in, to poke about a little. You could go several
floors down, the guide had said; that was certain, but the tale was,
that a secret way led down from the lowest cellar of this cave house,
continuing--if one could only find it--to the enchanted cavern far
below, where Taven, the witch, kept and cured of illness the girl loved
by Mireio.
I didn't know who Mireio was, except that he lived in songs and legends
of Old Provence, but the story sounded like a beautiful romance; and
then, the guide had added that some people thought the Kabre d'Or, or
Phoenician treasure, was hidden somewhere between Les Baux and the
"Fairy Grotto," or the "Gorge of Hell," near by.
Caves have always had the most extraordinary, magical fascination for
me. When I was a child, I believed that if I could only go into one I
should be allowed to find fairyland; and even in an ordinary, every-day
cellar I was never quite without hope. The smell of a cellar suggested
the most cool, delightful, shadowy mysteries to me, at that time, and
does still.
It was as if the ghostly hand that had been pulling me back, begging me
not to leave Les Baux, led me gently but insistently through the doorway
of the rock house.
It was not yet dark inside. I tiptoed my way through some rough bits of
debris, to the back of the big room, crudely cut out of stone. There
were shelves where the dwellers had set lights or stored provisions, and
there was nothing else to see except a square hole in the floor, below
which a staircase had been hewn. A glimmer of light came up to me, gray
as a bat's wing, and I knew that there must be some opening for
ventilation below.
I felt that I would give anything to go down those rough stone stairs,
only half way down, perhaps; just far enough to see what lay underneath.
It was as if Taven herself had called me, saying: "Come, I have
something to show you."
I put a foot on the first step, then the other foot wanted a chance to
touch the next step, and so on, each demanding its own turn in
fairness. I had gone down eight steps, counting each one, when I heard a
faint rustling noise. I stopped, my heart giving a jump, like a bird in
a cage.
There were no windows in the underground room, which was much smaller
and less regular in shape than the one above, but a faint twilight
seemed to rain down into it in streaks, like spears of rain, and I
guessed that holes had been made in the rock to give light and
ventilation. Something alive was down there, moving. I was frightened; I
hardly dared to look. And I had a nightmare feeling of being struck dumb
and motionless. I tried to turn and run up the stairs but I had to look,
and the gray filtering light struck into a pair of eyes.