their movements, as though they were led by chiefs. It appears that
their mode of attack on such an occasion as they favored us with is to
surround in silence, by a complete circle, the object to be stormed;
when, at a given signal, a simultaneous snapping of teeth takes place,
followed by a general converging rush to the centre, whereby the largest
and strongest reach the front first, and the smallest bring up the rear;
their retreat is carried out on an equally methodical system. There is a
small, red species known by the Guarany name of _caeitatu_;[B] our
friends are known by the Brazilian cognomen of _queixadas_, or _porcos
de matto_.
[Footnote B: _Dicotyles torquatos._]
From what I had witnessed during the past night, I can quite understand
how these courageous animals in large numbers are capable of surrounding
and destroying a powerful jaguar; and if my dog Feroz had fallen among
them, he would doubtless have made a brave fight, but he would not have
had the slightest chance of escape, and fortunately for us the ropes of
the hammocks did not break, as hammock-strings will sometimes do at
untoward moments, otherwise I should not be here now to tell this tale.
But now, from the camp-fire, comes the odor of roast peccary, for parts
of them were already roasting for breakfast, and emitting a vastly more
acceptable odor to what they did when alive. When ready, it is needless
to say that, after the long night and in the keen, dewy morning air, how
appreciated were our visitors when cooked, and there was not the
slightest trace of the objectionable odor.
[Shortly afterwards the hunters met another tenant of the
Brazilian wilds.]
As several peccaries had crossed our path lately, Jose and the Don cut
three long straight bamboos; to the ends of each we fastened our
sharp-pointed knives, for the purpose of pig-sticking. But the first use
we had for our lances was for a different animal; our dogs had suddenly
disappeared into the tall grass, barking loudly, and a few moments
afterwards a huge ant-bear came rolling out into the open semi-marsh
land, followed by the dogs; it went at a good pace, but with most
extraordinary and ludicrous movements. It became then very interesting
to watch the sagacity of the dogs, as they hung well on to his rear,
trying to seize only the tail of the animal, and keeping well out of
reach of his powerful fore-legs armed with tremendous claws. The dogs,
however, were evidently losing their caution and getting closer, and the
cumbersome beast had already made some particularly rapid blows in
attempting to rip the dogs. Fearing a possible disaster to my faithful
Feroz, we galloped on, but it is amazing the speed these cumbersome
ant-bears can develop. We had to put our animals to their sharpest paces
to come up with the quarry, when we had the opportunity of fleshing our
lances. The bear died hard, lying on its back and striking out with its
fore-legs. The men cut portions of the flesh to eat, but when afterwards
prepared, I found it too strongly flavored with formic acid to be
agreeable, and the dogs refused it.
It then occurred to me that the incident of the discovery by the Don of
the robbery of a bees'-nest some days ago might possibly be explained by
it having been taken by an ant-bear, and not by a prowling stranger as
he supposed.
[The hunt of the ant-bear was followed a few days afterwards by
a peccary-hunt, which proved a much less safe occupation.]
A little farther on, in a wide shallow depression, was our host's
favorite hunting-ground (where he had often found considerable
quantities of peccaries), an immense _burityzal_ that extended
apparently from the Chapadas to the Rio Preto.
We halted at Jose's request and listened, and soon distinctly heard the
grunt of the _porcos_ among the _buritys_, where they feed on the fruits
of the palms that form their favorite food.
Leaving the horses fastened to the trees of a thin _cerrado_ that
covered the sloping ground of the borders of the swamps, and haversacks,
_ponchos_, and other _impedimenta_ suspended to the branches, we
advanced to the attack.
I confess to a feeling of trepidation and a certain bumping of the heart
as we were about to leave the borders of the convenient trees so easy
and apparently purposely constructed for a human retreat from the
peccaries, but at that moment a troop of some dozen of them emerged from
the jungle of the swamp out into the open marshy land, and disappeared
into the adjoining tall grass.
Three of the sons of Jose, with Antonio, Bob, and Jose Grosso, started
at a run to cut off their retreat, and soon disappeared amidst the tall
grass a little lower down the hill. After a few moments of suspense, we
heard reports of guns, and shouts to us to look out; at the same time
another troop of peccaries appeared on the open marshes, and followed
the tracks of the others. The grass became agitated by the movements of
the animals, and they soon afterwards entered the more open ground of
the _cerrado_ where we were waiting, pursued by the five men; we all
fired, but as the range was long, there was not much execution. The
animals, about forty in number, now suddenly halted and faced their
pursuers with vicious little stampings of feet and snapping of teeth,
and suddenly charged down upon the men and upon ourselves. Never was
such gymnastic agility displayed as in the way that each of us rushed
for, and scurried up, the nearest trees, many dropping their guns or
knives in their hurry.
Jose and his sons were the coolest, especially the old man, who, perhaps
a little too stiff for climbing, calmly placed his back against a tree,
clasped it with his left hand, and leaning forward in a semi-stooping
posture, with his long _facao_ at the ready, awaited the furious charge.
How gallantly they come sweeping along with their muzzles well down, but
within a few feet of our trees they suddenly halt, and, snapping their
tusks, make short plunging charges. I had found a comfortable perch up a
short gnarled tree, and taking careful aim at the peccaries near me, I
knocked over three of them in five shots from my revolver.
They were charging Jose's legs at close quarters, but his long, keen,
sharp pointed knife flashes quickly as he rapidly delivers cuts and
thrusts with telling effect. The other men, safely ensconced in the
trees, have made good shots, but before any of us can reload the
peccaries scamper away. All of us quickly descend from our perches and
rush after the retreating animals, loading our guns as we run, but our
brave foes suddenly halt and face us with a look of defiance, and again
make a gallant charge. How ignominious we appeared as we in our turn
beat a hurried retreat to the nearest trees, where, not having time or
finding conveniences for a climb, we were forced to imitate Jose's
example and face the enemy with knives; but the peccaries, after a
momentary pause, dashed onward and disappeared amidst the tall grass of
the borders of the swamps, crossed the marshes, and entered the jungle
of the _buritys_.
Although the whole thing happened within a few moments, there were quite
enough elements of danger to spice the sport, for, if in making our
retreat any of us had stumbled and fallen, the consequences must have
been serious, if not fatal. I prefer the pig sticking on mule-back with
our extemporized spears. We gave the _coup de grace_ to the wounded, but
many got away only partially damaged. We found our bag amounted to ten
pigs, all in excellent condition.
As Jose and his sons were anxious for another tussle, we proceeded up
the valley, and soon saw here and there a solitary grunter outside the
growth of palms and aquatic vegetation of the swamps; and frequent
grunts, heard amidst the groves, indicated the presence of considerable
numbers of our foes.
A little farther on, a spit of firm land, only covered with short grass,
extended to near the groves, but no one cared to venture so far from the
friendly sanctuary of the trees and possibly meet a huge anaconda coiled
up in the swamp.
Jose Grosso and one of our host's sons now returned to remain with the
animals, whilst we proceeded a little farther on in quest of a stray
peccary. We walked about a mile, but found not what we hoped for; but on
returning some peccaries were seen straying towards the hills in twos or
threes, homeward-bound to their lairs in the dells and grottos of the
sources of streams at the foot of the bluffs of the Chapadas. We worked
our way amidst the trees, and eventually obtained a few long shots, and
succeeded in bagging two more.
It became a question whether we should pursue our journey to enable me
to take my notes, and camp out and have another probable night-attack of
peccaries, or return to Mato Grande. I thought a night of peace and
quietness preferable, although perhaps very unsportsmanlike, and so we
wended our way homeward.
It is rather unusual that these peccaries make such a brave fight in
daylight, but it was chiefly owing to their accidentally finding
themselves in such considerable numbers on this occasion, as they are
commonly scattered over their feeding-grounds in very small parties
during the day, and return to a common haunt at night, whence they sally
out in immense numbers upon any foe that trespasses upon their
neighborhood, like when they tracked our dogs in the Sapao.
THE PERILS OF TRAVEL.
IDA PFEIFFER.
[Among travellers there have been few more ardent and
enterprising than the woman from whose writings our present
selection is made. Ida Pfeiffer was born in Vienna about 1795,
married, brought up and educated her two sons, and in 1842,
when nearly fifty years of age, set out on a series of travels
which she had long contemplated, and in which she spent the
succeeding ten years. After a series of travels in Asia Minor,
Scandinavia, and Iceland, she set out in 1846 on a tour of the
world, which was not accomplished without great hardships and
dangers. In 1851 she entered on a second journey around the
world, visiting various new countries. She died in 1858. From
her "A Woman's Journey round the World" we select the following
thrilling experience. She had set out from Rio Janeiro, in
company with Count Berchthold, on an excursion to Petropolis,
a German colony in the vicinity. Suddenly, in a lonely spot, a
negro sprang out upon them, knife and lasso in hand, indicating
by gestures that he intended to murder them and drag their
bodies into the forest. She gives a vivid description of what
followed.]
We had no arms, as we had been told that the road was perfectly safe,
and the only weapons of defence which we possessed were our parasols, if
I except a clasp-knife, which I instantly drew out of my pocket and
opened, fully determined to sell my life as dearly as possible. We
parried our adversary's blows as long as we could with our parasols,
but these lasted but a short time; besides, he caught hold of mine,
which, as we were struggling for it, broke short off, leaving only a
piece of the handle in my hand. In the struggle, however, he dropped his
knife, which rolled a few steps from him; I instantly made a dash, and
thought I had got it, when he, more quick than I, thrust me away with
his feet and hands, and once more obtained possession of it. He waved it
furiously over my head, and dealt me two wounds, a thrust and a deep
gash, both in the upper part of the left arm; I thought I was lost, and
despair alone gave me the courage to use my own knife. I made a thrust
at his breast; this he warded off, and I only succeeded in wounding him
severely in the hand. The Count sprang forward and seized the fellow
from behind, and thus afforded me an opportunity of raising myself from
the ground. The whole affair had not taken more than a few seconds.
The negro's fury was now roused to its highest pitch by the wounds he
had received. He gnashed his teeth at us like a wild beast, and
flourished his knife with frightful rapidity. The Count, in his turn,
had received a cut right across the hand, and we had been irrevocably
lost, had not Providence sent us assistance. We heard the tramp of
horses' hoofs upon the road, upon which the negro instantly left us and
sprang into the wood. Immediately afterwards two horsemen turned a
corner of the road, and we hurried towards them; our wounds, which were
bleeding freely, and the way in which our parasols were hacked, soon
made them understand the state of affairs. They asked us which direction
the fugitive had taken, and, springing from their horses, hurried after
him; their efforts, however, would have been fruitless, if two negroes,
who were coming from the opposite side, had not helped them. As it was,
the fellow was soon captured.
He was pinioned, and, as he would not walk, severely beaten, most of the
blows being dealt upon the head, so that I feared the poor fellow's
skull would be broken. In spite of this, he never moved a muscle, and
lay, as if insensible to feeling, upon the ground. The two other negroes
were obliged to seize hold of him, when he endeavored to bite every one
within his reach like a wild beast, and carry him to the nearest house.
Our preservers, as well as the Count and myself, accompanied them. We
then had our wounds dressed, and afterwards continued our journey, not,
it is true, entirely devoid of fear, especially when we met one or more
negroes, but without any further mishap, and with a continually
increasing admiration of the beautiful scenery.
[The negro was supposed to be either drunk or insane, but it
proved that he had been punished by his master for some
offence, and took that mode to obtain revenge. Madame Pfeiffer
penetrated the Brazilian forests, and thus describes the
aboriginal savages.]
On a small space, under lofty trees, five huts, or rather sheds, formed
of leaves, were erected, eighteen feet long by twelve feet broad. The
frames were formed of four poles stuck in the ground, with another
reaching across, and the roof of palm-leaves, through which the rain
could penetrate with the utmost facility. On three sides these bowers
were entirely open. In the interior hung a hammock or two, and on the
ground glimmered a little fire, under a heap of ashes, in which a few
roots, Indian corn, and bananas were roasting. In one corner, under the
roof, a small supply of provisions was hoarded up, and a few gourds were
scattered around; these are used by the savages instead of plates, pots,
water-jugs, etc. The long-bows and arrows, which constitute their only
weapons, were leaning in the background against the wall.
I found the Indians still more ugly than the negroes. Their complexion
is a light bronze, they are stunted in stature, well-knit, and about the
middle size. They have broad and somewhat compressed features, and
thick, coal-black hair, hanging straight down, which the women sometimes
wear in plaits, fastened to the back of the head, and sometimes falling
down loose about them. Their forehead is broad and low, the nose
somewhat flattened, the eyes long and narrow, almost like those of the
Chinese, and the mouth large, with rather thick lips. To give a still
greater effect to all these various charms, a peculiar look of stupidity
is spread over the whole face, and is more especially to be attributed
to the way in which their mouths are always kept open. Most of them,
both men and women, were tattooed with a reddish or blue color, though
only round the mouth, in the form of a moustache. Both sexes are
passionately fond of smoking, and prefer brandy to everything. Their
dress was composed of a few rags, which they had fastened round their
loins.
The good creatures offered me the best hut they possessed, and invited
me to pass the night there. Being rather fatigued by the toilsome nature
of my journey on foot, the heat, and the hunting-excursion, I very
joyfully accepted their proposition; the day, too, was drawing to a
close, and I should not have been able to reach the settlement of the
whites before night. I therefore spread out my cloak upon the ground,
arranged a log of wood so as to serve instead of a pillow, and for the
present seated myself upon my splendid couch. In the mean while my hosts
were preparing the monkey and the parrots, by sticking them on wooden
spits and roasting them before the fire.
In order to render the meal a peculiarly dainty one, they also buried
some Indian corn and roots in the cinders. They then gathered a few
large fresh leaves off the trees, tore the roasted ape into several
pieces with their hands, and, placing a large portion of it, as well as
a parrot, Indian corn, and some roots, upon the leaves, put it before
me. My appetite was tremendous, seeing that I had tasted nothing since
the morning. I therefore immediately fell to upon the roasted monkey,
which I found superlatively delicious; the flesh of the parrot was far
from being so tender and palatable.
[As we have begun this selection with a perilous adventure of
our lady traveller, some other perils encountered by her in
other parts of the world may fitly close it. The following
experience in a tiger-hunt took place in India, during an
excursion to the rock temples of Ellora.]
I had scarcely left the gates of the town behind, when I perceived a
number of Europeans seated upon elephants, coming from the bungalow. On
meeting each other we pulled up and commenced a conversation. The
gentlemen were on the road to search for a tiger-lair, of which they had
received intimation, and invited me, if such a sport would not frighten
me too much, to take part in it. I was greatly delighted to receive the
invitation, and was soon seated on one of the elephants, in a howdah
about two feet high, in which there were already two gentlemen and a
native,--the latter had been brought to load the guns. They gave me a
large knife to defend myself, in case the animal should spring too high
and reach the side of the howdah. Thus prepared, we approached the chain
of hills, and after a few hours we were already pretty near the lair of
the tigers, when our servants cried out softly, "_Bach, Bach!_" and
pointed with their fingers to some brushwood.
I had scarcely perceived the flaming eyes which glared out of one of
the bushes before shots were fired. Several balls took effect upon
the animal, who rushed, maddened, upon us. He made such tremendous
springs, that I thought every moment he must reach the howdah, and
select a victim from among us. The sight was terrible to see, and
my apprehensions were increased by the appearance of another tiger;
however, I kept myself so calm, that none of the gentlemen had any
suspicion of what was going on in my mind. Shot followed shot; the
elephants defended their trunks with great dexterity by throwing them
up or drawing them in. After a sharp contest of half an hour, we were
the victors, and the dead animals were triumphantly stripped of their
beautiful skins. The gentlemen politely offered me one of them as a
present; but I declined accepting it, as I could not postpone my journey
sufficiently long for it to be dried.
[Madame Pfeiffer had a courage and presence of mind in
dangerous and difficult situations which often served her in
good stead. Certainly it needed no slight courage to undertake
the adventure described in our next selection, a journey among
the cannibal Battakers of Sumatra. In 1835 two American
missionaries had been killed and eaten by them, and such a
journey without a military escort seemed foolhardy. But she
persisted, and reached a village on the borders of the Battaker
territory July 19, 1852. Here she sent for the regents of the
neighboring villages.]
In the evening we sat in solemn conclave surrounded by regents, and by a
great crowd of the people, for it had been noised abroad far and wide
that here was a white woman who was about to venture into the dreaded
country of the wild Battakers. Regents and people all concurred in
advising me to renounce so perilous a project; but I had tolerably made
up my mind on this point, and I only wanted to be satisfied as to one
thing,--namely, whether it was true, as many travellers asserted, that
the Battakers did not put their victims out of their pain at once, but
tied them living to stakes, and, cutting pieces off them, consumed them
by degrees with tobacco and salt.
The idea of this slow torture did a little frighten me; but my bearers
assured me, with one accord, that this was only done to those who were
regarded as criminals of a deep dye, and who had been on that account
condemned to death. Prisoners of war are tied to a tree and beheaded at
once; but the blood is carefully preserved for drinking, and sometimes
made into a kind of pudding with boiled rice. The body is then
distributed; the ears, the nose, and the soles of the feet are the
exclusive property of the rajah, who has besides a claim on other
portions. The palms of the hands, the soles of the feet, the flesh of
the head, and the heart and liver, are reckoned peculiar delicacies, and
the flesh in general is roasted and eaten with salt. The regents assured
me, with a certain air of relish, that it was very good food, and that
they had not the least objection to eat it. The women are not allowed to
take part in these grand public dinners. A kind of medicinal virtue is
ascribed to trees to which prisoners have been tied when they have been
put to death, and the stem is usually cut into sticks five or six feet
long, carved into figures or arabesques, and decorated with human hair;
and these sticks are taken in hand by people who go to visit the sick,
or when any medicine is to be given.
[Despite this gruesome warning, the daring woman continued her
journey, and prosecuted it until the 13th of August, when she
found herself in the most imminent peril.]
More than eighty armed men stood in the pathway and barred our passage,
and before we were aware of it, their spearmen had formed a circle
around me and shut me in, looking the while indescribably terrible and
savage. They were tall robust men, fully six feet high; their features
showed the most violent agitation, and their huge mouths and projecting
teeth had really more resemblance to the jaws of a wild beast than to
anything human. They yelled and made a dreadful noise about me, and had
I not been in some measure familiar with such scenes, I should have felt
sure that my last hour was at hand.
I was really uneasy, however: the scene was too frightful; but I never
lost my presence of mind. At first I sat down on a stone that lay near,
endeavoring to look as composed and confident as I could; but some
rajahs then came up to me with very threatening looks and gestures, and
gave me clearly to understand that if I did not turn back they would
kill and eat me. Their words, indeed, I did not comprehend, but their
action left no manner of doubt, for they pointed with their knives to my
throat, and gnashed their teeth at my arm, moving their jaws then as if
they already had them full of my flesh.
Of course, when I thought of coming among the wild Battakers, I had
anticipated something of this sort, and I had therefore studied a little
speech in their language for such an occasion. I knew if I could say
anything that would amuse them, and perhaps make them laugh, I would
have a great advantage over them, for savages are quite like children,
and the merest trifle will often make them friends. I got up, therefore,
and patting one of the most violent, who stood next me, upon the
shoulder in a friendly manner, said, with smiling face, in a jargon half
Malay and half Battaker, "Why, you don't mean to say you would kill and
eat a woman, especially such an old one as I am! I must be very hard and
tough!" And I also gave them by signs and words to understand that I was
not at all afraid of them, and was ready, if they liked, to send back my
guide, if they would only take me as far as the _Eier-Tau_.
Fortunately for me, the doubtless very odd way in which I pronounced
their language, and my pantomime, diverted them, and they began to
laugh. Perhaps, also, the fearless confidence which I manifested made a
good impression; they offered me their hands, the circle of spearmen
opened, and, rejoicing not a little at having escaped this danger, I
journeyed on, and reached in perfect safety a place called Tugala, where
the rajah received me into his house.
BRAZILIAN ANTS AND MONKEYS.
HENRY W. BATES.