The Portuguese equivalent of bungstarter whiffed Angus Jones by an

eyelash. The rafters shook. We had a start to the door, and needed it.

Jones cleared the sill with the aid of a ponderous foot. In the driving

hail of oaths and beer mugs we tore across the Praca. A little soldier

in blue linen started up from, somewhere. Two others ran out of a

doorway. A crippled beggar threw his crutch at us with a curse.

Loungers, ragamuffins, street cars, joined the chase with clamorous glee

as we turned up an alley. All Funchal joined in the chorus behind us.

"_Va-se'mbora! Va-se'mbora_!"

And so consigned we fled at last to safety among suburban gardens and

burst panting through a cane brake.

I said nothing to Angus Jones. Comment was too obvious. Angus Jones said

nothing to me. Comment was inadequate. But I made such amends as lay

with me. At a little change house by the sugar fields I spent my one

coin for a bottle of wine. The wink and gasp of Angus Jones as that

flagrant vintage seared his throat ended the gentle jape as far as I was

concerned. He knew more about Madeira now and he no longer condescended

to me....

We regained the water front by a devious route and came down toward the

quay among odorous fishing smacks and tangled nets. Hotter, more

desolate than ever, lay that black griddle of the foreshore on which

Angus Jones was now condemned to wander with me. Nothing moved along

its pebbly waste but heat waves and boiling surf and hopping insects in

clouds.

Off the jetty lay the Siamese tramp, still heaving in the ground swell,

and we came down to the edge to stare across at her. As pariahs before a

vision of paradise we stood and yearned toward that disreputable hulk.

They had almost finished with her cargo. At this moment they held a

clumsy crate balanced over the side in a sling, seeking to lower it upon

a shore boat about the size of a dinghy. The crew swarmed like furious

ants, and a white officer in dirty ducks flailed amid the riot. As the

chain swung we saw the crate was really a clumsy cage in which ramped a

huge and tawny form.

"The circus," I murmured.

"Ha!" said Angus Jones.

"Not the kind of circus you mean," I assured him. "No clowns, no rings,

no shell games. It's a kind of fifth-class traveling menagerie, from

what I hear, backed as a new venture by his excellency the governor

himself. They'll house it in that round barn up the promenade where the

cinema lives, and anon those natives who have the price will sit around

on the benches and tremble and scratch themselves."

"But why should it be thus?" asked Angus Jones.

"Well, those who carry fleas--"

"No, but why should they tremble?"

"This is a far island. No one hereabouts has ever seen any animals more

savage than a goat."

"True," said Angus Jones, with a grimace as if he had bitten into a sour

fruit. "It is their simplicity. I had almost forgot."

Strange that he should have taken the word in defeat and disillusionment

at that moment, for just then the thing happened. There burst a shrill

screaming from the tramp, and its knot of toilers flew apart like bits

of a bomb. Men leaped into the rigging, climbed the spars, shot down the

hatchways. The hanging cage sagged and cracked, and overside flashed,

with an arching spring, some great body all lithe and tawny in the

sunlight. It plunged, and presently reappeared, surging for shore.

* * * * *

I felt suddenly conspicuous on that beach. We stood far from shelter.

Nor are cobbles good to run upon....

"I think we'd better be going," I suggested, and caught sight of my

companion, and stopped.

He still wore his wool cap, and it occurred to me even then that he had

not turned a hair throughout our flight. But now his face was curiously

splotched red and white and his eyes blazed seaward in fixity. He did

not budge.

"Tell me," said Angus Jones--"tell me what was that word with which they

harried us a while back? I seemed to spy a meaning. The one word they

had for us alike?"

"_Va-se'mbora?_" I said, fidgeting. "Oh, it's the common repulse to

beggars and nuisances. You say it when you want to be rid of some one.

_Va-se'mbora!_ Which means in the vernacular: Chase yourself."

"Chase yourself," repeated Angus Jones softly. "Think of that now! They

seek to tax us. They refuse us dole. They beat us here and yon. They

will not let us go, though we would only leave their country for their

country's good.... Withal they tell us: Chase yourself! And they are, as

you say, a simple people, living on a far island."

The tawny head was close in.

"It's time to move," I urged.

But Angus Jones picked up an oar and cut the painter from a fishing boat

and went down to the water's edge. He made a singular figure on Funchal

beach, drawn to all his lean height, with the clothes flapping on him

as he struck a noble pose. For myself I retreated among the boats where

I might hide in some cuddy.

"Observe the epic grandeur of the scene," declaimed Angus Jones. "Here I

stand on a rock in mid-Atlantic to meet the raging monarch of the

midmost jungle. 'Tis lofty, incredible--in a sense, miraculous."

The man was mad.... I called to him again.

"For Heaven's sake, come away!"

But Angus Jones smiled out over the blue bay.

"As if St. Patrick were to welcome a sea serpent in the dales of

Wexford!" he added, raising his oar.

And there crawled out of the wash at his feet a full-grown male lion,

gaunt and sopping, with crimson jaws distended....

From afar among the fishing boats I thought many things very swiftly:

that I must close my eyes tight against the cruel, bright Madeira sun

and what it would show--this for one; that I should never again feed

crude Malaga to a man with an empty stomach--for another; that perhaps

the animal might be somewhat assuaged with the sea water, and finally

that here, after all, was a miracle, as he had said.

For quite surely I saw Angus Jones fetch the jungle monarch but the one

wallop with his oar.

"Down!" thundered Angus Jones.

The lion snarled, spat, crouched--and began to shake its paws in the air

and to lick its fur like any prowler of the back fence, all forlorn and

bedraggled.

"Kitty, kitty!" said Angus Jones....

The lion blinked up at him. He stooped and tickled it between the ears.

When he stood up again the rope was noosed about its neck, and the other

end of the rope was in his hand. He hailed me to stand forth, and I

obeyed in fear and great wonder.

[Illustration: _A Rex Ingram--Metro Picture._

_Where the Pavement End._

A SCENE FROM THE PHOTOPLAY.]

"Do you see me?" said Angus Jones. "I am come of the dominant race. Do

you see my cat? It is the proper pet for such a man. And now--" He drew

a long breath through his nose. "And now we will resume our

investigations amid the haunts of these simple islanders."

So we turned back and made our second entrance into Funchal--Angus Jones

and I--and the lion on a leading string. It was stupendous, and yet it

went simply enough. Our progress was slow because Thomas--Angus declared

his name was Thomas--had to sit down every few feet and wash his feet or

his face or some part of him. He seemed a well-mannered and an amiable

beast. But he was a fearsome thing to look upon, striding up the

peaceful rua, and I took no part when Angus Jones yanked him along.

* * * * *

We called first at the shop of Joao Gomez. There was evidence that Joao

had departed by the back way within the moment. But if he stood not upon

his going we made even less of it. Those sausages in silver foil were

the true fruit of Bologna, ripe and spicy, and there were chocolates,

and dainty biscuits in tins, pickled mussels and Logos figs, anchovies

and raisins and hams, real Estremadura, known to song and story. Such

delights an epicure might have grudged us, but no epicure ever brought

the sharp tooth shared by us three. For three at the feast we were.

Angus Jones herded the lion into a corner and fed him with a ham, and he

was grateful and made about two bites of it.

"Thomas," said Angus Jones, "I see your grievance is like our own--grown

up among whips and scorns. Lay on, my son. 'Tis the day of triumph." And

his eye was bright like a china button.

"Can you hold him to it?" I asked as we sat in the ruins of Joao's

stock.

"Who? Thomas? He also has played a part on many stages. Do you note the

scars on his poor ribs? He may even have known me, myself. Hold!"

He caught up a leather thong and cracked it like a whip. The lion spat,

but rather like puss at the fireside. His great yellow eyes blinked

mildly and the lines about them were lines of worry, very pathetic to

see, and his chin whiskers waggled. "Don't be hard on him," I begged.

"Stand there!" cried Angus Jones.

The beast reared meekly on his haunches and stayed so until permitted to

drop. Angus Jones waved a ham bone and spoke with emotion.

"They accused us as monarchists. Their only mistake was that we are

kings. And here is another royalty who shall enter upon his own this

tide. Royal shall be our portion. Come, friends, once more into the

breach of hospitality, and we'll teach these yellow simps who they've

been entertaining unawares. Come where glory waits!"

* * * * *

We went forth into Funchal, and before our steps as we moved it might

have been a city of the dead, but further about it seethed. No one

crossed our path, and every house was barred and bolted where we passed,

but only just in time. There was a scuttling, a screaming, and a terror

in the air, a slamming of doors and windows, a crying upon saints and

small children. Ox sleds stampeded in the next square. A flock of goats

climbed a garden wall ahead of us. Dogs and boys went heeling it up

every alley, and people swept past the street ends in a froth of white

faces. Even church bells began to chatter and toll as for a pestilence.

* * * * *

Through all we paced in stately procession, slowly, munching in content,

and Thomas with a skittish wreath of sausages round his neck, so that I

know not what chance kept the alarm from reaching our new acquaintance

until the very instant of our entrance into his bazaar--where there was

no back door. The drop of his jaw, his squeal as he climbed the shelves

against an avalanche of bottles and demijohns, his frantic perch among

the basketwork--these were rare tribute....

"Are you there, old dear, late of Lawrence, Mass.?" inquired Angus

Jones. "The drinks are on us. What will you have, Martini Angostura de

Souse?"

Thomas was somewhat curious of Martinho and sat him down in the midst of

the shop. Here he yawned upward chastely, and the quaking of Martinho

made the glassware dance.

"Don't let that thing loose!" begged the liquor dealer. And indeed

Thomas as an indoor spectacle was paralyzing.

Angus Jones kept the rope taut as if by his single effort the ravening

beast was alone restrained.

"We would not so hastily deprive ourselves of you," he said. "We require

you to name the drink. 'Tis no light matter. We want the best in the

house. The best, mind you. And if you do not wholly suit us, I bid ye

beware!"

Martinho writhed, but he was not long deciding. He took no chances with

that red pit of a mouth below him. At his direction I drew forth the

cobwebbed flasks, and even in the act he groaned aloud. For this was his

treasure.... No import, but genuine liquid gold of the soil, the kind

that once gave Madeira such great honor. It bore the magic brand

Malvasia, under date of '57, and truly it was the drink of the gods,

smooth as honey and sweet as a nut.

Angus Jones let it trickle slowly over his palate and reverently read

the faded label, and it was as if a holy balm had spread upon his

wounds.

"Sir, I thank you," he said, hushed and solemn. "Sir, you have a thirsty

name I shall long remember. For now I perceive a great truth--that no

title is given wholly in vain. Thus at last we find the good of Madeira,

though extracted before your time."

It was no sample we took with us; we added the whole basket of that

precious wine to our loot when we bade farewell to Martinho and left him

babbling on his shelf....

And here I have recorded the true culmination of our great adventure.

What comes after remains dimmed and mellowed, tinged with joy and also

with a tender sadness, consecrate to a fragrant and incomparable memory.

I know that we came forth from Sousa's in undisputed possession of all

Funchal. I know that we advanced as conquerors through the _ruas_,

_calcades_ and _passeios_ that had witnessed our discomfiture. I know

that as we entered the Praca da Constituicao a mighty shout went up, and

that when we paraded the great plaza from end to end its roofs were

black with spectators, but no man set foot to ground within sight of us.

These things seemed then but trifles, the natural incident to such a

pilgrimage as we made together, we celebrities, now four in

number--Angus Jones, and I, and Thomas, and the basket of Malvasia, '57.

It must have been about the end of the second bottle that we hunted mine

hairy host of the Golden Gate through all the rooms of his barracks and

smoked his Teneriffe cigars at one thousand reis, and made him play

billiards with three oranges while we marked the count upon his rear

with cues. He was a vile shot, I remembered, so we took to recording his

misses, and Angus Jones said this was the most wonderful system of

marking ever invented, and taught him free of all charge. I was greatly

moved at the generosity of Jones in this matter and embraced him. It

seemed to bespeak so grand and forgiving a character.

The fourth bottle had probably been broached by the time we raided the

Commercial Association and flushed three steamship agents. One we set to

shoveling coal on the public highway and the other two marched around

him singing the monarchist anthem--I was the prompter in that piece. I

have an idea it was a success, for the roofs passed the word, and we

could hear them howling half a mile back. They do not like the

monarchist anthem in Funchal.

Certainly the basket was quite light when parley was called at last.

This historic event took place under the high stone tower that is known

as Benger's Folly where certain eminent citizens had taken refuge, and I

have reason to think the overtures came from no less a person than his

excellency the governor himself. "What do we want?" echoed Angus Jones

in reply to that hail. "What do we want?"

He leaned ever so slightly on the massive shoulder of Thomas--I was in

support with the basket--and let a voluptuous eye run from end to end of

the water front. So the Spanish conquistador may have looked who took

the place in the sixteenth century. And so he had a right to look on

subject territory.

"We are fed; we have drunk--gloriously have we drunk," said Angus Jones.

"Honor is now restored, and to these people the conviction of their

native and essential shim--sim, pardon me, simplishity." He waved a

hand. "We require to be helped on our way. For cabin passage in yonder

vessel, tax free and duly paid, we will remit the rest. Let it be

peach," said Angus Jones. "Yes, let us have peash!"

And as he said so it was.

I have a vague recollection of seeing Thomas behind his bars again

somewhere and of parting from him, with tears, I think; then of the

rusted side of a ship and its blessed planks under my feet--for a time.

One last picture lingers ere all dissolves....

* * * * *

They were even then hoisting anchor aboard our Siamese tramp, but the

vessel had swung her stern shoreward not fifty feet off the quay. Angus

Jones stood alone by the taffrail in full view of the stricken throng

which had flocked down to quay and beach and promenade to see us go. He

stood alone, that marvelous man, holding the last bottle of Malvasia

sweetly cradled in an arm, and he harangued the multitude. He gave a

dissertation upon Madeira, I believe, its men, manners, and morals. What

he said is lost to fame, though doubtless it was pithy and pointed. But

I remember his climax, and that was nothing short of inspired. He flung

abroad a magnificent gesture.

"_Va-se'mbora_!" thundered Angus Jones in the face of the populace.

"_Va-se'mbora!_"--Which means in the vernacular: Chase yourself!...

THE WICKS OF MACASSAR

A naturalist, by what Andrew Harben told me, is a man that goes around

looking for things that happen by nature. The more natural they are the

better pleased is he. And some day if he looks far enough he's liable to

fetch up against something that just naturally makes a meal off him and

he goes looking no farther.

Anyway this is what I gathered from Andrew Harben. He's all right now

and when last I saw him he was pounding chain cables by the Cape Town

breakwater--such being the most denatured employment he could find.

But he used to be a naturalist himself and interested in most curious

facts like bugs and poison plants and wild animals, until once they

brought him so close to an unnatural finish that they cured him for all

time to come....

"Keep away from it," says Andrew Harben, giving me advice while he

chipped the rust flakes lovingly into my eyes. "Whenever you have a

feeling that you'd like to be a great scientific investigator and

discover what's none of your business," he says, "go and pry into a keg

of dynamite with a chisel. It's quicker and more homelike. But leave the

strange places and the strange secrets of the earth to university

professors and magazine writers, they being poor devils and mostly so

scrawny that nothing would bite them anyway. You mightn't believe I once

went around sampling rocks and fleabites and tribal customs and things

in all kinds of queer corners. I did, 'he says,' but I do not any more.

And yet I made one remarkable scientific discovery before I quit. It is

a valuable fact in nature and I will hand it to you for what it's worth,

free gratis."

Which he did, and I'm doing the same.

It was while his ambition was young and strong that Andrew Harben took a

job from the Batavia Government to watch a screw-pile light by the

Borneo shore of Macassar. His tastes running as they did, you got to

admit his judgment, no other place around the earth having quite so much

nature laid on it to the square inch. Mud and mangroves and sloughs and

swamps make a cozy home that suits a lot of queer inhabitants, mostly of

a kind you and me would be highly wishful to avoid. But Andrew Harben he

opened up his specimen cases and set out his little pickle bottles full

of alcohol and was happy, laughing quite humorous to himself at the idea

of getting paid thirty guilders a month for such a privilege.

The lantern at Andrew Harben's light must have been brought out by the

first Dutch navigator. A great iron scaffolding in the middle of his

shack held a tub of oil. Then there were eight flat wicks that led up

through a perforated sheet of iron from the oil tub, each cropping out

overhead by an old-fashioned thumbscrew feed. And around the wicks was

built the eight-sided glass cupola. Yes, it was a kind of overgrown

street lamp of a light, but mighty important in those waters just the

same.

The keeper's business was to have the oil tub always full and to climb

around and give the thumb-screws a twist every hour of the night. So

long as he kept his wicks trimmed and burning nobody cared what else he

did on the side. The skipper of the lighthouse tender that landed Andrew

Harben made this clear.

"Z' last mans what lived here got eats by z' crocodile," he said. "All

but z' feets of one, which we buried. Zat wass awright, only zey let z'

lights go out and zere wass wrecks. Oh, such wrecks because of zese dam

currents. Now, please, if you got mad, be so good to stay anyways by z'

lights until we bring anozzer mans, if it is all z' same to you."

"Don't worry about me," said Andrew Harben, who was a big, hearty chap.

"I shan't go mad, no fear. The poor fools probably hadn't enough brains

to keep from rattling loose. You see, I'm a scientist, I shall explore

the wonders of natural history. My work here in Borneo shall make me

famous and, who knows, may make my fortune as well. There was Philson,

who found how the nipa palm can be made to yield pure maple sirup at a

cost of one cent per gallon, and Biggins, who learned that the distilled

juice of the female mustard spider is a specific for the pip--both

humble investigators like myself. No. I'll have enough to keep me busy,

never fret."

"Yes," remarked the skipper, a most intelligent halfcaste, Andrew

Harben told me, being educated at the Agricultural School at Buitenzorg,

"yes, I zink maybe you will. So you are a natural 'istory? In zat case a

crocodile may not like your flavior, you zink? Perhaps you are right. I

will stop back in a month to see if zis iss z' truth?"

"How many men have held this job?" asked Andrew Harben.

"Oh, I 'ave forgot 'ow many," said the skipper, with a face like wood,

which is the custom of half-castes when they lie.

* * * * *

Andrew Harben might have lived ashore if he'd wanted, because there was

a plank walk set on steel screw piles that led from the lighthouse right

into the mangroves. But he preferred the idea of sitting out there in

the evenings to watch the monkeys and the crabs play along the mud flats

by the river mouth. This shack was his box seat.

He was so took up with getting settled in the new roost that he never

thought to overhaul his supplies till the skipper was gone. Grub and

oil were all right, he found, but one thing was all wrong. Those eight

wicks that fed the lights had been used up short. Even when he filled

the tub level he hadn't more than an inch to spare all around. And there

wasn't an extra wick in the place.

Andrew Harben ran out and yelled at the tender that was just heading up

for Mangkalihat, but he couldn't make them hear, and the skipper thought

he was only passing compliments.

So he was, in a way, being sore. This thing about the wicks was just

blamed carelessness on the part of the three Dutch marines who had held

the place temporary to his arrival. Also it was likely to prove

expensive to shipping and a lot of trouble to him. "How the devil can I

keep those footy little lights going for a month without no wicks?" said

Andrew Harben.

The more he looked and thought the less he liked it. Macassar is a

regular crossroads. Junks from Kwangchow toddle by after sandalwood and

birds' nests, and country wallahs go smelling their way--and smelling is

right--around to Banjermasin after benzoin and rice, and tramps of all

breeds with Australian coal and ironwood, and topsail schooners with

anything at all from pepper to dead Chinamen--a parade like Collins

Street of an afternoon.

* * * * *

Andrew Harben considered, and he saw what a mess he would start

thereabout if he ever let his lights go out. It made him peevish,

because he hadn't come to be bothered with such matters, and he started

to piece out those wicks. All he could find in the way of stuff was his

socks. He tied them on to the loose ends of the wicks, and they drew oil

all right, but he only had six, being a frugal man in his habits. Not

another thing could he rummage up around the shack to help him, no yarn,

nor twine, nor goods of any kind.

"Shall we be stuck by such naturalistic obstacles?" said Andrew Harden,

and he took his pants, which were canvas, and hacked them with a knife.

By raveling off about four inches from each leg he got enough cotton

thread to patch the other two wicks with. It left him kind of

high-watered, you might say. Yes, he was well ventilated around his

ankles, and not having any more socks to his feet he was going to be

quite cool. But the strait was safe for the time, and he could now turn

his attention to real business.

He used to start easy every morning on his natural history by digging

out a few billions of dead moths that had snowed in his lights all

night. Then he'd hurry ashore over his plank bridge and collect snails

and fuzzy worms and similar crawlers by the tide mark. Later he'd work

into heavier stuff--bats and leeches and centipedes and such like

fascinating reptiles--or maybe dodge a panther or a wild pig or a boa

constrictor in the jungle. Finally he'd taper off on ticks, which took

to him most amazing, and fire ants and scorpions and mosquitoes as big

as your finger. If there is one thing more evident than another in

Borneo it's insects, and Andrew Harben did say he often swum home at

dusk through solid waves of them. Taking that as meant, you can still

see he would be by no means lonesome.

And pretty soon he had company of another kind too, being native. These

were a tribe of simple Bugis that lived infrequent through the back

country in a state of innocence you would hardly imagine, and they were

very hairy and most friendly to Andrew Harben, which was queer. One

family had a hang-out near the river, and it wasn't long before old Allo

and his seven sons were serving him in all kinds of little ways. As soon

as they understood his idea about animals and specimens they took a

highly informing interest, Andrew Harben said.

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