described; it is low, but seemingly barricaded with a long chain of sand-
hills to the sea, that lets nothing be seen of what is farther within
land. At high water the tides rising so high as they do, the coast shows
very low: but when it is low water it seems to be of an indifferent
height. At low water-mark the shore is all rocky, so that then there is
no landing with a boat; but at high water a boat may come in over those
rocks to the sandy bay, which runs all along on this coast. The land by
the sea for about five or six hundred yards is a dry sandy soil, bearing
only shrubs and bushes of divers sorts. Some of these had them at this
time of the year, yellow flowers or blossoms, some blue, and some white;
most of them of a very fragrant smell. Some had fruit like peascods, in
each of which there were just ten small peas; I opened many of them, and
found no more nor less. There are also here some of that sort of bean
which I saw at Rosemary Island: and another sort of small red hard pulse,
growing in cods also, with little black eyes like beans. I know not
their names, but have seen them used often in the East Indies for
weighing gold; and they make the same use of them at Guinea, as I have
heard, where the women also make bracelets with them to wear about their
arms. These grow on bushes; but here are also a fruit like beans growing
on a creeping sort of shrub-like vine. There was great plenty of all
these sorts of cod-fruit growing on the sand-hills by the sea side, some
of them green, some ripe, and some fallen on the ground: but I could not
perceive that any of them had been gathered by the natives; and might not
probably be wholesome food.
The land farther in, that is, lower than what borders on the sea, was so
much as we saw of it, very plain and even; partly savannahs and partly
woodland. The savannahs bear a sort of thin coarse grass. The mould is
also a coarser sand than that by the sea-side, and in some places it is
clay. Here are a great many rocks in the large savannah we were in,
which are five or six feet high, and round at top like a hay-cock, very
remarkable; some red and some white. The woodland lies farther in still,
where there were divers sorts of small trees, scarce any three feet in
circumference, their bodies twelve or fourteen feet high, with a head of
small knibs or boughs. By the sides of the creeks, especially nigh the
sea, there grow a few small black mangrove-trees.
There are but few land animals. I saw some lizards; and my men saw two
or three beasts like hungry wolves, lean like so many skeletons, being
nothing but skin and bones; it is probable that it was the foot of one of
those beasts that I mentioned as seen by us in New Holland. We saw a
raccoon or two, and one small speckled snake.
The land fowls that we saw here were crows, just such as ours in England,
small hawks and kites, a few of each sort: but here are plenty of small
turtle doves, that are plump, fat, and very good meat. Here are two or
three sorts of smaller birds, some as big as larks, some less; but not
many of either sort. The sea-fowl are pelicans, boobies, noddies,
curlews, seapies, &c., and but few of these neither.
The sea is plentifully stocked with the largest whales that I ever saw;
but not to compare with the vast ones of the Northern Seas. We saw also
a great many green turtle, but caught none, here being no place to set a
turtle net in; there being no channel for them, and the tides running so
strong. We saw some sharks and parracoots; and with hooks and lines we
caught some rock-fish and old-wives. Of shell-fish, here were oysters
both of the common kind for eating, and of the pearl kind; and also
whelks, conchs, muscles, limpits, periwinkles, &c., and I gathered a few
strange shells, chiefly a sort not large, and thickset all about with
rays or spikes growing in rows.
And thus having ranged about a considerable time upon this coast, without
finding any good fresh water or any convenient place to clean the ship,
as I had hoped for; and it being moreover the height of the dry season,
and my men growing scorbutic for want of refreshments, so that I had
little encouragement to search further, I resolved to leave this coast,
and accordingly in the beginning of September set sail towards Timor.
On the 12th of December, 1699, we sailed from Babao, coasting along the
island Timor to the eastward, towards New Guinea. It was the 20th before
we got as far as Laphao, which is but forty leagues. We saw black clouds
in the north-west, and expected the wind from that quarter above a month
sooner.
That afternoon we saw the opening between the islands Omba and Fetter,
but feared to pass through in the night. At two o'clock in the morning
it fell calm, and continued so till noon, in which time we drove with the
current back again south-west six or seven leagues.
On the 22nd, steering to the eastward to get through between Omba and
Fetter, we met a very strong tide against us, so that although we had a
very fresh gale, we yet made way very slowly; but before night got
through. By a good observation we found that the south-east point of
Omba lies in latitude 8 degrees 25 minutes. In my drafts it is laid down
in 8 degrees 10 minutes. My true course from Babao, is east 25 degrees
north, distance one hundred eighty-three miles. We sounded several times
when near Omba, but had no ground. On the north-east point of Omba we
saw four or five men, and a little further three pretty houses on a low
point, but did not go ashore.
At five this afternoon we had a tornado, which yielded much rain,
thunder, and lightning; yet we had but little wind. The 24th in the
morning we caught a large shark, which gave all the ship's company a
plentiful meal.
The 27th we saw the Burning Island; it lies in latitude 6 degrees 36
minutes south; it is high, and but small; it runs from the sea a little
sloping towards the top, which is divided in the middle into two peaks,
between which issued out much smoke: I have not seen more from any
volcano. I saw no trees; but the north side appeared green, and the rest
looked very barren.
Having passed the Burning Island, I shaped my course for two islands,
called Turtle Isles, which lie north-east by east a little easterly, and
distant about fifty leagues from the Burning Isle. I fearing the wind
might veer to the eastward of the north, steered twenty leagues north-
east, then north-east by east. On the 28th we saw two small low islands,
called Lucca-Parros, to the north of us. At noon I accounted myself
twenty leagues short of the Turtle Isles.
The next morning, being in the latitude of the Turtle Islands, we looked
out sharp for them, but saw no appearance of any island till eleven
o'clock, when we saw an island at a great distance. At first we supposed
it might be one of the Turtle Isles, but it was not laid down true,
neither in latitude nor longitude from the Burning Isle, nor from the
Lucca-Parros, which last I took to be a great help to guide me, they
being laid down very well from the Burning Isle, and that likewise in
true latitude and distance from Omba, so that I could not tell what to
think of the island now in sight, we having had fair weather, so that we
could not pass by the Turtle Isles without seeing them, and this in sight
was much too far off for them. We found variation 1 degrees 2 minutes
east. In the afternoon I steered north-east by east for the islands that
we saw. At two o'clock I went and looked over the fore-yard, and saw two
islands at much greater distance than the Turtle Islands are laid down in
my drafts, one of them was a very high peaked mountain, cleft at top, and
much like the Burning Island that we passed by, but bigger and higher;
the other was a pretty long high flat island. Now I was certain that
these were not the Turtle Islands, and that they could be no other than
the Bande Isles, yet we steered in to make them plainer. At three
o'clock we discovered another small flat island to the north-west of the
others, and saw a great deal of smoke rise from the top of the high
island. At four we saw other small islands, by which I was now assured
that these were the Bande Isles there. At five I altered my course and
steered east, and at eight east-south-east, because I would not be seen
by the inhabitants of those islands in the morning. We had little wind
all night, and in the morning, as soon as it was light we saw another
high peaked island; at eight it bore south-south-east half-east, distance
eight leagues: and this I knew to be Bird Isle. It is laid down in our
drafts in latitude 5 degrees 9 minutes south, which is too far southerly
by twenty-seven miles, according to our observation, and the like error
in laying down the Turtle Islands might be the occasion of our missing
them.
At night I shortened sail, for fear of coming too nigh some islands, that
stretch away bending like a half moon from Ceram towards Timor, and which
in my course I must of necessity pass through. The next morning betimes
I saw them, and found them to be at a farther distance from Bird Island
than I expected. In the afternoon it fell quite calm, and when we had a
little wind, it was so unconstant, flying from one point to another, that
I could not without difficulty get through the islands where I designed;
besides, I found a current setting to the southward, so that it was
betwixt five and six in the evening before I passed through the islands,
and then just weathered little Watela, whereas I thought to have been two
or three leagues more northerly. We saw the day before, betwixt two and
three, a spout but a small distance from us, it fell down out of a black
cloud, that yielded great store of rain, thunder and lightning; this
cloud hovered to the southward of us for the space of three hours, and
then drew to the westward a great pace, at which time it was that we saw
the spout, which hung fast to the cloud till it broke, and then the cloud
whirled about to the south-east, then to east-north-east, where meeting
with an island, it spent itself and so dispersed, and immediately we had
a little of the tail of it, having had none before. Afterwards we saw a
smoke on the island Kosiway, which continued till night.
On New Year's Day we first descried the land of New Guinea, which
appeared to be high land, and the next day we saw several high islands on
the coast of New Guinea, and ran in with the main land. The shore here
lies along east-south-east and west-north-west. It is high even land,
very well clothed with tall flourishing trees, which appeared very green,
and gave us a very pleasant prospect. We ran to the westward of four
mountainous islands, and in the night had a small tornado, which brought
with it some rain and a fair wind. We had fair weather for a long time,
only when near any land we had some tornadoes; but off, at sea, commonly
clear weather, though, if in sight of land, we usually saw many black
clouds hovering about it.
On the 5th and 6th of January we plied to get in with the land, designing
to anchor, fill water, and spend a little time in searching the country,
till after the change of the moon, for I found a strong current setting
against us. We anchored in thirty-eight fathom water, good oozy ground.
We had an island of a league long without us, about three miles distant,
and we rode from the main about a mile. The easternmost point of land
seen bore east-by-south half-south, distance three leagues, and the
westernmost west-south-west half-south, distance two leagues. So soon as
we anchored, we sent the pinnace to look for water and try if they could
catch any fish. Afterwards we sent the yawl another way to see for
water. Before night the pinnace brought on board several sorts of fruits
that they found in the woods, such as I never saw before. One of my men
killed a stately land-fowl, as big as the largest dunghill cock; it was
of a sky-colour, only in the middle of the wings was a white spot, about
which were some reddish spots; on the crown it had a large bunch of long
feathers, which appeared very pretty; his bill was like pigeon's; he had
strong legs and feet, like dunghill fowls, only the claws were reddish;
his crop was full of small berries. It lays an egg as big as a large
hen's egg, for our men climbed the tree where it nested, and brought off
one egg. They found water, and reported that the trees were large, tall,
and very thick, and that they saw no sign of people. At night the yawl
came aboard and brought a wooden fish-spear, very ingeniously made, the
matter of it was a small cane; they found it by a small barbecue, where
they also saw a shattered canoe.
The next morning I sent the boatswain ashore fishing, and at one haul he
caught three hundred and fifty-two mackerel, and about twenty other
fishes, which I caused to be equally divided among all my company. I
sent also the gunner and chief mate to search about if they could find
convenient anchoring near a watering-place; by night they brought word
that they had found a fine stream of good water, where the boat could
come close to, and it was very easy to be filled, and that the ship might
anchor as near to it as I pleased, so I went thither. The next morning,
therefore, we anchored in twenty-five fathom water, soft oozy ground,
about a mile from the river; we got on board three tuns of water that
night, and caught two or three pike-fish, in shape much like a parracota,
but with a longer snout, something resembling a garr, yet not so long.
The next day I sent the boat again for water, and before night all my
casks were full.
Having filled here about fifteen tuns of water, seeing we could catch but
little fish, and had no other refreshments, I intended to sail next day,
but finding that we wanted wood, I sent to cut some, and going ashore to
hasten it, at some distance from the place where our men were, I found a
small cove, where I saw two barbecues, which appeared not to be above two
months' standing; the spars were cut with some sharp instrument, so that,
if done by the natives, it seems that they have iron. On the 10th, a
little after twelve o'clock, we weighed and stood over to the north side
of the bay, and at one o'clock stood out with the wind at north and north-
north-west. At four we passed out by a White Island, which I so named
from its many white cliffs, having no name in our drafts. It is about a
league long, pretty high, and very woody; it is about five miles from the
main, only at the west end it reaches within three miles of it. At some
distance off at sea the west point appears like a cape-land, the north
side trends away north-north-west, and the east side east-south-east.
This island lies in latitude 3 degrees 4 minutes south, and the meridian
distance from Babao five hundred and twelve miles east. After we were
out to sea, we plied to get to the northward, but met with such a strong
current against us, that we got but little, for if the wind favoured us
in the night, that we got three or four leagues, we lost it again, and
were driven as far astern next morning, so that we plied here several
days.
The 14th, being past a point of land that we had been three days getting
about, we found little or no current, so that, having the wind at north-
west-by-west and west-north-west, we stood to the northward, and had
several soundings: at three o'clock thirty-eight fathom, the nearest part
of New Guinea being about three leagues' distance; at four, thirty-seven;
at five, thirty-six; at six, thirty-six; at eight, thirty-three fathom;
then the Cape was about four leagues' distant, so that as we ran off we
found our water shallower; we had then some islands to the westward of
us, at about four leagues' distance.
A little after noon we saw smoke on the islands to the west of us, and
having a fine gale of wind, I steered away for them. At seven o'clock in
the evening we anchored in thirty-five fathom, about two leagues from an
island, good soft oozy ground. We lay still all night, and saw fires
ashore. In the morning we weighed again, and ran farther in, thinking to
have shallower water; but we ran within a mile of the shore, and came to
in thirty-eight fathom good soft holding ground. While we were under
sail two canoes came off within call of us. They spoke to us, but we did
not understand their language nor signs. We waved to them to come
aboard, and I called to them in the Malayan language to do the same, but
they would not. Yet they came so nigh us that we could show them such
things as we had to truck with them; yet neither would this entice them
to come on board, but they made signs for us to come ashore, and away
they went. Then I went after them in my pinnace, carrying with me
knives, beads, glasses, hatchets, &c. When we came near the shore, I
called to them in the Malayan language. I saw but two men at first, the
rest lying in ambush behind the bushes; but as soon as I threw ashore
some knives and other toys, they came out, flung down their weapons, and
came into the water by the boat's side, making signs of friendship by
pouring water on their heads with one hand, which they dipped into the
sea. The next day, in the afternoon, several other canoes came aboard,
and brought many roots and fruits, which we purchased.
The island has no name in our drafts, but the natives call it Pub Sabuda;
it is about three leagues long, and two miles wide, more or less; it is
of a good height, so as to be seen eleven or twelve leagues; it is very
rocky, yet above the rocks there is good yellow and black mould, not
deep, yet producing plenty of good tall trees, and bearing any fruits or
roots which the inhabitants plant. I do not know all its produce, but
what we saw were plantains, cocoa-nuts, pine-apples, oranges, papaes,
potatoes, and other large roots. Here are also another sort of wild
jacas, about the bigness of a man's two fists, full of stones or kernels,
which eat pleasant enough when roasted. The libby tree grows here in the
swampy valleys, of which they make sago cakes. I did not see them make
any, but was told by the inhabitants that it was made of the pith of the
tree, in the same manner I have described in my "Voyage Round the World."
They showed me the tree whereof it was made, and I bought about forty of
the cakes. I bought also three or four nutmegs in their shell, which did
not seem to have been long gathered; but whether they be the growth of
this island or not, the natives would not tell whence they had them, and
seem to prize them very much. What beasts the island affords I know not,
but here are both sea and land fowl. Of the first, boobies and men-of-
war birds are the chief, some goldens, and small milk-white
crab-catchers; the land-fowl are pigeons, about the bigness of mountain-
pigeons in Jamaica, and crows about the bigness of those in England, and
much like them, but the inner part of their feathers are white, and the
outside black, so that they appear all black, unless you extend the
feathers. Here are large sky-coloured birds, such as we lately killed on
New Guinea, and many other small birds, unknown to us. Here are likewise
abundance of bats, as big as young coneys, their necks, head, ears, and
noses like foxes, their hair rough, that about their necks is of a
whitish yellow, that on their heads and shoulders black, their wings are
four feet over from tip to tip; they smell like foxes. The fish are
bass, rock-fish, and a sort of fish like mullets, old-wives, whip-rays,
and some other sorts that I knew not; but no great plenty of any, for it
is deep water till within less than a mile of the shore, then there is a
bank of coral rocks, within which you have shoal-water, white clean sand,
so there is no good fishing with the seine.
This island lies in latitude 2 degrees 43 minutes south, and meridian
distance from port Babo, on the island Timor, four hundred and eighty-six
miles: besides this island, here are nine or ten other small islands.
The inhabitants of this island are a sort of very tawny Indians, with
long black hair, who in their manners differ but little from the
Mindanayans, and others of these eastern islands. These seem to be the
chief; for besides them we saw also shock curl pated New Guinea negroes,
many of which are slaves to the others, but I think not all. They are
very poor, wear no clothes but have a clout about their middle, made of
the rinds of the tops of palmetto trees; but the women had a sort of
calico cloth. Their chief ornaments are blue and yellow beads, worn
about their wrists. The men arm themselves with bows and arrows, lances,
broad swords, like those of Mindanao; their lances are pointed with bone:
they strike fish very ingeniously with wooden fish-spears, and have a
very ingenious way of making the fish rise; for they have a piece of wood
curiously carved, and painted much like a dolphin (and perhaps other
figures); these they let down into the water by a line with a small
weight to sink it; when they think it low enough, they haul the line into
their boats very fast, and the fish rise up after this figure, and they
stand ready to strike them when they are near the surface of the water.
But their chief livelihood is from their plantations; yet they have large
boats, and go over to New Guinea, where they get slaves, fine parrots,
&c, which they carry to Goram and exchange for calicoes. One boat came
from thence a little before I arrived here, of whom I bought some
parrots, and would have bought a slave but they would not barter for
anything but calicoes, which I had not. Their houses on this side were
very small, and seemed only to be for necessity; but on the other side of
the island we saw good large houses. Their prows are narrow, with
outriggers on each side, like other Malayans. I cannot tell of what
religion these are; but I think they are not Mahometans, by their
drinking brandy out of the same cup with us without any scruple. At this
island we continued till the 20th instant, having laid in store of such
roots and fruits as the island afforded.
On the 20th, at half an hour after six in the morning, I weighed, and
standing out we saw a large boat full of men lying at the north point of
the island. As we passed by, they rowed towards their habitations, where
we supposed they had withdrawn themselves for fear of us, though we gave
them no cause of terror, or for some differences among themselves.
We stood to the northward till seven in the evening, then saw a rippling;
and, the water being discoloured, we sounded, and had but twenty-two
fathom. I went about and stood to the westward till two next morning
then tacked again, and had these several soundings: at eight in the
evening, twenty-two; at ten, twenty-five; at eleven, twenty-seven; at
twelve, twenty-eight fathom; at two in the morning, twenty-six; at four,
twenty-four; at six, twenty-three; at eight, twenty-eight; at twelve,
twenty-two.
We passed by many small islands, and among many dangerous shoals without
any remarkable occurrence till the 4th of February, when we got within
three leagues of the north-west cape of New Guinea, called by the Dutch
Cape Mabo. Off this cape there lies a small woody island, and many
islands of different sizes to the north and north-east of it. This part
of New Guinea is high land, adorned with tall trees, that appeared very
green and flourishing. The cape itself is not very high, but ends in a
low sharp point, and on either side there appears another such point at
equal distances, which makes it resemble a diamond. This only appears
when you are abreast of the middle point, and then you have no ground
within three leagues of the shore.
In the afternoon we passed by the cape and stood over for the islands.
Before it was dark we were got within a league of the westernmost, but
had no ground with fifty fathom of line: however, fearing to stand nearer
in the dark, we tacked and stood to the east and plied all night. The
next morning we were got five or six leagues to the eastward of that
island, and, having the wind easterly, we stood in to the northward among
the islands, sounded, and had no ground; then I sent in my boat to sound,
and they had ground with fifty fathom near a mile from the shore. We
tacked before the boat came aboard again, for fear of a shoal that was
about a mile to the east of that island the boat went to, from whence
also a shoal-point stretched out itself till it met the other: they
brought with them such a cockle as I have mentioned in my "Voyage Round
the World" found near Celebes, and they saw many more, some bigger than
that which they brought aboard, as they said, and for this reason I named
it Cockle Island. I sent them to sound again, ordering them to fire a
musket if they found good anchoring; we were then standing to the
southward, with a fine breeze. As soon as they fired, I tacked and stood
in; they told me they had fifty fathom when they fired. I tacked again,
and made all the sail I could to get out, being near some rocky islands
and shoals to leeward of us. The breeze increased, and I thought we were
out of danger, but having a shoal just by us, and the wind failing again,
I ordered the boat to tow us, and by their help we got clear from it. We
had a strong tide setting to the westward.
At one o'clock, being past the shoal, and finding the tide setting to the
westward, I anchored in thirty-five fathom coarse sand, with small coral
and shells. Being nearest to Cockle Island, I immediately sent both the
boats thither, one to cut wood, and the other to fish. At four in the
afternoon, having a small breeze at south-south-west, I made a sign for
my boats to come on board. They brought some wood, and a few small
cockles, none of them exceeding ten pounds' weight, whereas the shell of
the great one weighed seventy-eight pounds; but it was now high water,
and therefore they could get no bigger. They also brought on board some
pigeons, of which we found plenty on all the islands where we touched in
these seas: also in many places we saw many large bats, but killed none,
except those I mentioned at Pub Sabuda. As our boats came aboard, we
weighed and made sail, steering east-south-east as long as the wind held.
In the morning we found we had got four or five leagues to the east of
the place where we weighed. We stood to and fro till eleven; and finding
that we lost ground, anchored in forty-two fathom coarse gravelly sand,
with some coral. This morning we thought we saw a sail.
In the afternoon I went ashore on a small woody island, about two leagues
from us. Here I found the greatest number of pigeons that ever I saw
either in the East or West Indies, and small cockles in the sea round the
island in such quantities that we might have laden the boat in an hour's
time. These were not above ten or twelve pounds' weight. We cut some
wood, and brought off cockles enough for all the ship's company; but
having no small shot, we could kill no pigeons. I returned about four
o'clock, and then my gunner and both mates went thither, and in less than
three-quarters of an hour they killed and brought off ten pigeons. Here
is a tide: the flood sets west and the ebb east, but the latter is very
faint and but of small continuance, and so we found it ever since we came
from Timer: the winds we found easterly, between north-east and
east-south-east, so that if these continue, it is impossible to beat
farther to the eastward on this coast against wind and current. These
easterly winds increased from the time we were in the latitude of about 2
degrees south, and as we drew nigher the line they hung more easterly:
and now being to the north of the continent of New Guinea, where the
coast lies east and west, I find the trade-wind here at east, which yet
in higher latitudes is usually at north-north-west and north-west; and so
I did expect them here, it being to the south of the line.
The 7th, in the morning, I sent my boat ashore on Pigeon Island, and
stayed till noon. In the afternoon my men returned, brought twenty-two
pigeons, and many cockles, some very large, some small: they also brought
one empty shell, that weighed two hundred and fifty-eight pounds.
At four o'clock we weighed, having a small westerly wind and a tide with
us; at seven in the evening we anchored in forty-two fathom, near King
William's Island, where I went ashore the next morning, drank His
Majesty's health, and honoured it with his name. It is about two leagues
and a half in length, very high and extraordinarily well clothed with
woods; the trees are of divers sorts, most unknown to us, but all very
green and flourishing; many of them had flowers, some white, some purple,
others yellow: all which smelt very fragrantly: the trees are generally
tall and straight bodied, and may be fit for any use. I saw one of a
clean body, without knot or limb, sixty or seventy feet high by
estimation; it was three of my fathoms about, and kept its bigness,
without any sensible decrease, even to the top. The mould of the island
is black, but not deep, it being very rocky. On the sides and top of the
island are many palmetto trees, whose heads we could discern over all the
other trees, but their bodies we could not see.
About one in the afternoon we weighed and stood to the eastward, between
the main and King William's Island, leaving the island on our larboard
side, and sounding till we were past the island, and then we had no
ground. Here we found the flood setting east-by-north, and the ebb west-
by-south; there were shoals and small islands between us and the main,
which caused the tide to set very inconstantly, and make many whirlings
in the water; yet we did not find the tide to set strong any way, nor the
water to rise much.
On the 9th, being to the eastward of King William's Island, we plied all
day between the main and other islands, having easterly winds and fair
weather till seven the next morning; then we had very hard rain till
eight, and saw many shoals of fish. We lay becalmed off a pretty deep
bay on New Guinea, about twelve or fourteen leagues wide, and seven or
eight leagues deep, having low land near its bottom, but high land
without. The easternmost part of New Guinea seen bore east-by-south,
distant twelve leagues; Cape Mabo west-south-west half-south, distant
seven leagues.
At one in the afternoon it began to rain, and continued till six in the
evening, so that, having but little wind and most calms, we lay still off
the forementioned bay, having King William's Island still in sight,
though distant by judgment fifteen or sixteen leagues west. We saw many
shoals of small fish, some sharks, and seven or eight dolphins, but
caught none. In the afternoon, being about four leagues from the shore,
we saw an opening in the land, which seemed to afford good harbour. In
the evening we saw a large fire there, and I intended to go in (if winds
and weather would permit) to get some acquaintance with the natives.
Since the 4th instant that we passed Cape Mabo, to the 12th, we had small
easterly winds and calms, so that we anchored several times, where I made
my men cut wood, that we might have a good stock when a westerly wind
should present, and so we plied to the eastward, as winds and currents
would permit, having not got in all above thirty leagues to the eastward
of Cape Mabo; but on the 12th, at four in the afternoon, a small gale
sprang up at north-east-by-north, with rain; at five it shuffled about to
north-west, from thence to the south-west, and continued between those
two points a pretty brisk gale, so that we made sail and steered away
north-east, till the 13th, in the morning, to get about the Cape of Good
Hope. When it was day we steered north-east half east, then north-east-
by-east till seven o'clock, and, being then seven or eight leagues off
shore, we steered away east, the shore trending east-by-south. We had
very much rain all night, so that we could not carry much sail, yet we
had a very steady gale. At eight this morning the weather cleared up,
and the wind decreased to a fine top-gallant gale, and settled at west-by-
south. We had more rain these three days past, than all the voyage, in
so short a time. We were now about six leagues from the land of New
Guinea, which appeared very high; and we saw two headlands about twenty
leagues asunder, the one to the east and the other to the west, which
last is called the Cape of Good Hope. We found variation east 4 degrees.
The 15th, in the morning, between twelve and two o'clock, it blew a very
brisk gale at north-west, and looked very black in the south-west. At
two it flew about at once to the south-south-west, and rained very hard.
The wind settled some time at west-south-west, and we steered east-north-
east till three in the morning; then the wind and rain abating, we
steered east-half-north for fear of coming near the land. Presently
after, it being a little clear, the man at the bowsprit end called out,
"Land on our starboard bow." We looked out and saw it plain: I presently
sounded, and had but ten fathom, soft ground. The master, being somewhat
scared, came running in haste with this news, and said it was best to
anchor. I told him no, but sound again; then we had twelve fathom; the
next cast, thirteen and a half; the fourth, seventeen fathom; and then no
ground with fifty fathom line. However, we kept off the island, and did
not go so fast but that we could see any other danger before we came nigh
it; for here might have been more islands not laid down in my drafts
besides this, for I searched all the drafts I had, if perchance I might
find any island in the one which was not in the others, but I could find
none near us. When it was day we were about five leagues off the land we
saw; but, I believe, not above five miles, or at most two leagues, off it
when we first saw it in the night.
This is a small island, but pretty high; I named it Providence. About
five leagues to the southward of this there is another island, which is
called William Scouten's Island, and laid down in our drafts: it is a
high island, and about twenty leagues big.
It was by mere providence that we missed the small island; for, had not
the wind come to west-south-west, and blown hard, so that we steered east-
north-east, we had been upon it by our course that we steered before, if
we could not have seen it. This morning we saw many great trees and logs
swim by us, which, it is probable, came out of some great rivers on the
main.
On the 16th we crossed the line, and found variation 6 degrees 26 minutes
east. The 18th, by my observation at noon, we found that we had had a
current setting to the southward, and probably that drew us in so nigh
Scouten's Island. For this twenty-four hours we steered east-by-north
with a large wind, yet made but an east-by-south half south course,
though the variation was not above 7 degrees east.
The 21st we had a current setting to the northward, which is against the
true trade monsoon, it being now near the full moon. I did expect it
here, as in all other places. We had variation 8 degrees 45 minutes
east. The 22nd we found but little current, if any; it set to the
southward.
On the 23rd, in the afternoon, we saw two snakes, and the next morning
another passing by us, which was furiously assaulted by two fishes, that
had kept us company five or six days; they were shaped like mackerel, and
were about that bigness and length, and of a yellow-greenish colour. The
snake swam away from them very fast, keeping his head above water; the
fish snapped at his tail, but when he turned himself, that fish would
withdraw, and another would snap, so that by turns they kept him
employed, yet he still defended himself, and swam away a great pace, till
they were out of sight.
The 25th, betimes in the morning, we saw an island to the southward of
us, at about fifteen leagues' distance. We steered away for it,
supposing it to be that which the Dutch call Wishart's Island; but,
finding it otherwise, I called it Matthias, it being that saint's day.
This island is about nine or ten leagues long, mountainous and woody,
with many savannahs, and some spots of land which seemed to be cleared.
At eight in the evening we lay by, intending, if I could, to anchor under
Matthias Isle; but the next morning, seeing another island about seven or
eight leagues to the eastward of it, we steered away for it. At noon we
came up fair with its south-west end, intending to run along by it and
anchor on the south-east side, but the tornadoes came in so thick and
hard that I could not venture in. This island is pretty low and plain,
and clothed with wood; the trees were very green, and appeared to be
large and tall, as thick as they could stand one by another. It is about
two or three leagues long, and at the south-west point there is another
small, low, woody island, about a mile round, and about a mile from the
other. Between them there runs a reef of rocks which joins them. (The
biggest I named Squally Island.)
Seeing we could not anchor here, I stood away to the southward, to make
the main; but having many hard squalls and tornadoes, we were often
forced to hand all our sails and steer more easterly to go before it. On
the 26th at four o'clock it cleared up to a hard sky and a brisk settled
gale; then we made as much sail as we could. At five it cleared up over
the land, and we saw, as we thought, Cape Solomaswer bearing south-south-
east, distance ten leagues. We had many great logs and trees swimming by
us all this afternoon, and much grass; we steered in south-south-east
till six, then the wind slackened, and we stood off till seven, having
little wind; then we lay by till ten, at which time we made sail, and
steered away east all night. The next morning, as soon as it was light,
we made all the sail we could, and steered away east-south-east, as the
land lay, being fair in sight of it, and not above seven leagues'
distance. We passed by many small low woody islands which lay between us
and the main, not laid down in our drafts. We found variation 9 degrees
50 minutes east.
The 28th we had many violent tornadoes, wind, rain, and some spouts, and
in the tornadoes the wind shifted. In the night we had fair weather, but
more lightning than we had seen at any time this voyage. This morning we
left a large high island on our larboard side, called in the Dutch drafts
Wishart's Isle, about six leagues from the main; and, seeing many smokes
upon the main, I therefore steered towards it.
The mainland at this place is high and mountainous, adorned with tall,
flourishing trees; the sides of the hills had many large plantations and
patches of clear land, which, together with the smoke we saw, were
certain signs of its being well inhabited; and I was desirous to have
some commerce with the inhabitants. Being nigh shore, we saw first one
proa; a little after, two or three more, and at last a great many boats
came from all the adjacent bays. When they were forty-six in number they
approached so near us that we could see each other's signs and hear each
other speak, though we could not understand them, nor they us. They made
signs for us to go in towards the shore, pointing that way. It was
squally weather, which at first made me cautious of going too near; but
the weather beginning to look pretty well, I endeavoured to get into a
bay ahead of us, which we could have got into well enough at first; but
while we lay by, we were driven so far to leeward that now it was more
difficult to get in. The natives lay in their proas round us; to whom I
showed beads, knives, glasses, to allure them to come nearer. But they
would not come so nigh as to receive anything from us; therefore I threw
out some things to them, viz., a knife fastened to a piece of board, and
a glass bottle corked up with some beads in it, which they took up, and
seemed well pleased. They often struck their left breast with their
right hand, and as often held up a black truncheon over their heads,
which we thought was a token of friendship, wherefore we did the like.
And when we stood in towards their shore, they seemed to rejoice; but
when we stood off, they frowned, yet kept us company in their proas,
still pointing to the shore. About five o'clock we got within the mouth
of the bay, and sounded several times, but had no ground, though within a
mile of the shore. The basin of this bay was about two miles within us,
into which we might have gone; but as I was not assured of anchorage
there, so I thought it not prudent to run in at this time, it being near
night, and seeing a black tornado rising in the west, which I most
feared. Besides, we had near two hundred men in proas close by us; and
the bays on the shore were lined with men from one end to the other,
where there could not be less than three or four hundred more. What
weapons they had, we knew not, nor yet their design; therefore I had, at
their first coming near us, got up all our small arms, and made several
put on cartouch boxes, to prevent treachery. At last I resolved to go
out again; which, when the natives in their proas perceived, they began
to fling stones at us as fast as they could, being provided with engines
for that purpose, wherefore I named this place Slinger's Bay; but at the
firing of one gun they were all amazed, drew off, and flung no more
stones. They got together, as if consulting what to do; for they did not
make in towards the shore, but lay still, though some of them were killed
or wounded; and many more of them had paid for their boldness, but that I
was unwilling to cut off any of them, which, if I had done, I could not
hope afterwards to bring them to treat with me.
The next day we sailed close by an island, where we saw many smokes, and
men in the bays, out of which came two or three canoes, taking much pains
to overtake us, but they could not, though we went with an easy sail, and
I could not now stay for them. As I passed by the south-east point I
sounded several times within a mile of the Sandy Bays, but had no ground.
About three leagues to the northward of the south-east point we opened a
large, deep bay, secured from west-north-west and south-west winds. There
were two other islands that lay to the north-east of it, which secured
the bay from north-east winds; one was but small, yet woody; the other
was a league long, inhabited, and full of cocoa-nut trees. I endeavoured
to get into this bay, but there came such flaws off from the high land
over it that I could not. Besides, we had many hard squalls, which
deterred me from it; and, night coming on, I would not run any hazard,
but bore away to the small inhabited island, to see if we could get
anchorage on the east side of it. When we came there we found the island
so narrow, that there could be no shelter; therefore I tacked and stood
towards the greater island again; and being more than midway between
both, I lay by, designing to endeavour for anchorage next morning.
Between seven and eight at night we spied a canoe close by us, and seeing
no more, suffered her to come aboard. She had three men in her, who
brought off five cocoa-nuts, for which I gave each of them a knife and a
string of beads, to encourage them to come off again in the morning: but
before these went away we saw two more canoes coming; therefore we stood
away to the northward from them, and then lay by again till day. We saw
no more boats this night, neither designed to suffer any to come aboard
in the dark.
By nine o'clock the next morning we were got within a league of the great
island, but were kept off by violent gusts of wind. These squalls gave
us warning of their approach by the clouds which hung over the mountains,
and afterwards descended to the foot of them; and then it is we expect
them speedily.
On the 3rd of March, being about five leagues to leeward of the great
island, we saw the mainland ahead, and another great high island to
leeward of us, distant about seven leagues, which we bore away for. It
is called in the Dutch drafts Garret Dennis Isle. It is about fourteen
or fifteen leagues round, high and mountainous, and very woody. Some
trees appeared very large and tall, and the bays by the seaside are well
stared with cocoa-nut trees, where we also saw some small houses. The
sides of the mountains are thickset with plantations, and the mould in
the new-cleared land seemed to be of a brown-reddish colour. This island
is of no regular figure, but is full of points shooting forth into the
sea, between which are many sandy bays, full of cocoa-nut trees. The
middle of the isle lies in 3 degrees 10 minutes south latitude. It is
very populous. The natives are very black, strong, and well-limbed
people, having great round heads, their hair naturally curled and short,
which they shave into several forms, and dye it also of divers
colours--viz., red, white, and yellow. They have broad round faces, with
great bottle-noses, yet agreeable enough till they disfigure them by
painting, and by wearing great things through their noses as big as a
man's thumb, and about four inches long. These are run clear through
both nostrils, one end coming out by one cheek-bone, and the other end
against the other; and their noses so stretched that only a small slip of
them appears about the ornament. They have also great holes in their
ears, wherein they wear such stuff as in their noses. They are very
dexterous, active fellows in their proas, which are very ingeniously
built. They are narrow and long, with outriggers on one side, the head
and stern higher than the rest, and carved into many devices--viz., some
fowl, fish, or a man's head painted or carved; and though it is but
rudely done, yet the resemblance appears plainly, and shows an ingenious
fancy. But with what instruments they make their proas or carved work I
know not, for they seem to be utterly ignorant of iron. They have very
neat paddles, with which they manage their proas dexterously, and make
great way through the water. Their weapons are chiefly lances, swords
and slings, and some bows and arrows. They have also wooden fish-spears
for striking fish. Those that came to assault us in Slinger's Bay on the
main are in all respects like these, and I believe these are alike
treacherous. Their speech is clear and distinct. The words they used
most when near us were _vacousee allamais_, and then they pointed to the
shore. Their signs of friendship are either a great truncheon, or bough
of a tree full of leaves, put on their heads, often striking their heads
with their hands.
The next day, having a fresh gale of wind, we got under a high island,
about four or five leagues round, very woody, and full of plantations
upon the sides of the hills; and in the bays, by the waterside, are
abundance of cocoa-nut trees. It lies in the latitude of 3 degrees 25
minutes south, and meridian distance from Cape Mabo 1,316 miles. On the
south-east part of it are three or four other small woody islands, one
high and peaked, the others low and flat, all bedecked with cocoa-nut
trees and other wood. On the north there is another island of an
indifferent height and of a somewhat larger circumference than the great
high island last mentioned. We passed between this and the high island.
The high island is called in the Dutch drafts Anthony Cave's Island. As
for the flat, low island, and the other small one, it is probable they
were never seen by the Dutch, nor the islands to the north of Garret
Dennis's Island. As soon as we came near Cave's Island some canoes came
about us, and made signs for us to come ashore, as all the rest had done
before, probably thinking we could run the ship aground anywhere, as they
did their proas, for we saw neither sail nor anchor among any of them,
though most Eastern Indians have both. These had proas made of one tree,
well dug, with outriggers on one side; they were but small, yet well
shaped. We endeavoured to anchor, but found no ground within a mile of
the shore. We kept close along the north side, still sounding till we
came to the north-east end, but found no ground, the canoes still
accompanying us, and the bays were covered with men going along as we
sailed. Many of them strove to swim off to us, but we left them astern.
Being at the north-east point, we found a strong current setting to the
north-west, so that though we had steered to keep under the high island,
yet we were driven towards the flat one. At this time three of the
natives came on board. I gave each of them a knife, a looking-glass, and
a string of beads. I showed them pumpkins and cocoa-nut shells, and made
signs to them to bring some aboard, and had presently three cocoa-nuts
out of one of the canoes. I showed them nutmegs, and by their signs I
guessed they had some on the island. I also showed them some gold dust,
which they seemed to know, and called out "Manneel, Manneel," and pointed
towards the land. A while after these men were gone, two or three canoes
came from the flat island, and by signs invited us to their island, at
which the others seemed displeased, and used very menacing gestures and,
I believe, speeches to each other. Night coming on, we stood off to sea,
and having but little wind all night, were driven away to the north-west.
We saw many great fires on the flat island. The last men that came off
to us were all black as those we had seen before, with frizzled hair.
They were very tall, lusty, well-shaped men. They wear great things in
their noses, and paint as the others, but not much. They make the same
signs of friendship, and their language seems to be one; but the others
had proas, and these canoes. On the sides of some of these we saw the
figures of several fish neatly cut, and these last were not so shy as the
others.
Steering away from Cave's Island south-south-east, we found a strong
current against us, which set only in some places in streams, and in them
we saw many trees and logs of wood, which drove by us. We had but little
wood aboard; wherefore I hoisted out the pinnace, and sent her to take up
some of this driftwood. In a little time she came aboard with a great
tree in tow, which we could hardly hoist in with all our tackles. We cut
up the tree and split it for firewood. It was much worm-eaten, and had
in it some live worms above an inch long, and about the bigness of a
goose-quill, and having their heads crusted over with a thin shell.
After this we passed by an island, called by the Dutch St. John's Island,
leaving it to the north of us. It is about nine or ten leagues round,
and very well adorned with lofty trees. We saw many plantations on the
sides of the hills, and abundance of cocoa-nut trees about them, as also
thick groves on the bays by the seaside. As we came near it three canoes
came off to us, but would not come aboard. They were such as we had seen
about the other islands. They spoke the same language, and made the same
signs of peace, and their canoes were such as at Cave's Island.
We stood along by St. John's Island till we came almost to the south-east
point, and then, seeing no more islands to the eastward of us, nor any
likelihood of anchoring under this, I steered away for the main of New
Guinea, we being now, as I supposed, to the east of it, on this north
side. My design of seeing these islands as I passed along was to get
wood and water, but could find no anchor ground, and therefore could not
do as I purposed; besides, these islands are all so populous, that I
dared not send my boat ashore, unless I could have anchored pretty nigh;
wherefore I rather chose to prosecute my design on the main, the season
of the year being now at hand, for I judged the westerly winds were nigh
spent.
On the 8th of March we saw some smoke on the main, being distant from it
four or five leagues. It is very high, woody land, with some spots of
savannah. About ten in the morning six or seven canoes came off to us.
Most of them had no more than one man in them. They were all black, with
short curled hair, having the same ornaments in their noses, and their
heads so shaved and painted, and speaking the same words as the
inhabitants of Cave's Island before mentioned.
There was a headland to the southward of us, beyond which, seeing no
land, I supposed that from thence the land trends away more westerly.
This headland lies in the latitude of 5 degrees 2 minutes south, and
meridian distance from Cape Mabo 1,290 miles. In the night we lay by,
for fear of overshooting this headland, between which and Cape St. Manes
the land is high, mountainous and woody, having many points of land
shooting out into the sea, which make so many fine bays; the coast lies
north-north-east and south-south-west.
The 9th, in the morning a huge black man came off to us in a canoe, but
would not come aboard. He made the same signs of friendship to us as the
rest we had met with; yet seemed to differ in his language, not using any
of those words which the others did. We saw neither smoke nor
plantations near this headland. We found here variation 1 degree east.
In the afternoon, as we plied near the shore, three canoes came off to
us; one had four men in her, the others two apiece. That with the four
men came pretty nigh us, and showed us a cocoa-nut and water in a bamboo,
making signs that there was enough ashore where they lived; they pointed
to the place where they would have us go, and so went away. We saw a
small round pretty high island about a league to the north of this
headland, within which there was a large deep bay, whither the canoes
went; and we strove to get thither before night, but could not; wherefore
we stood off, and saw land to the westward of this headland, bearing west-
by-south-half-south distance about ten leagues, and, as we thought, still
more land bearing south-west-by-south, distance twelve or fourteen
leagues, but being clouded, it disappeared, and we thought we had been
deceived. Before night we opened the headland fair, and I named it Cape
St. George. The land from hence trends away west-north-west about ten
leagues, which is as far as we could see it; and the land that we saw to
the westward of it in the evening, which bore west-by-south-half-south,
was another point about ten leagues from Cape St. George; between which
there runs in a deep bay for twenty leagues or more. We saw some high
land in spots like islands, down in that bay at a great distance; but
whether they are islands, or the main closing there we know not. The
next morning we saw other land to the south-east of the westernmost
point, which till then was clouded; it was very high land, and the same
that we saw the day before, that disappeared in a cloud. This Cape St.
George lies in the latitude of 5 degrees 5 minutes south; and meridian
distance from Cape Mabo 1,290 miles. The island off this cape I called
St. George's Isle; and the bay between it and the west point I named St.
George's Bay. [Note:--No Dutch drafts go so far as this cape by ten
leagues.] On the 10th, in the evening, we got within a league of the
westernmost land seen, which is pretty high and very woody, but no
appearance of anchoring. I stood off again, designing, if possible, to
ply to and fro in this bay till I found a conveniency to wood and water.
We saw no more plantations nor cocoa-nut trees; yet in the night we
discerned a small fire right against us. The next morning we saw a
burning mountain in the country. It was round, high, and peaked at top,
as most volcanoes are, and sent forth a great quantity of smoke. We took
up a log of driftwood, and split it for firing; in which we found some
small fish.
The day after we passed by the south-west cape of this bay, leaving it to
the north of us. When we were abreast of it I called my officers
together, and named it Cape Orford, in honour of my noble patron,
drinking his Lordship's health. This cape bears from Cape St. George
south-west about eighteen leagues. Between them there is a bay about
twenty-five leagues deep, having pretty high land all round it,
especially near the capes, though they themselves are not high. Cape
Orford lies in the latitude of 5 degrees 24 minutes south, by my
observation; and meridian distance from Cape St. George, forty-four miles
west. The land trends from this cape north-west by west into the bay,
and on the other side south-west per compass, which is south-west 9
degrees west, allowing the variation, which is here 9 degrees east. The
land on each side of the cape is more savannah than woodland, and is
highest on the north-west side. The cape itself is a bluff-point, of an
indifferent height, with a flat tableland at top. When we were to the
south-west of the cape, it appeared to be a low point shooting out, which
you cannot see when abreast of it. This morning we struck a log of
driftwood with our turtle-irons, hoisted it in, and split it for
firewood. Afterwards we struck another, but could not get it in. There
were many fish about it.
We steered along south-west as the land lies, keeping about six leagues
off the shore; and, being desirous to cut wood and fill water, if I saw
any conveniency, I lay by in the night, because I would not miss any
place proper for those ends, for fear of wanting such necessaries as we
could not live without. This coast is high and mountainous, and not so
thick with trees as that on the other side of Cape Orford.
On the 14th, seeing a pretty deep bay ahead, and some islands where I
thought we might ride secure, we ran in towards the shore and saw some
smoke. At ten o'clock we saw a point which shot out pretty well into the
sea, with a bay within it, which promised fair for water; and we stood in
with a moderate gale. Being got into the bay within the point, we saw
many cocoa-nut-trees, plantations, and houses. When I came within four
or five miles of the shore, six small boats came off to view us, with
about forty men in them all. Perceiving that they only came to view us,
and would not come aboard, I made signs and waved to them to go ashore;
but they did not or would not understand me; therefore I whistled a shot
over their heads out of my fowling-piece, and then they pulled away for
the shore as hard as they could. These were no sooner ashore, than we
saw three boats coming from the islands to leeward of us, and they soon
came within call, for we lay becalmed. One of the boats had about forty
men in her, and was a large, well-built boat; the other two were but
small. Not long after, I saw another boat coming out of the bay where I
intended to go; she likewise was a large boat, with a high head and stern
painted, and full of men. This I thought came off to fight us, as it is
probable they all did; therefore I fired another small shot over the
great boat that was nigh us, which made them leave their babbling and
take to their paddles. We still lay becalmed; and therefore they, rowing
wide of us, directed their course towards the other great boat that was
coming off. When they were pretty near each other I caused the gunner to
fire a gun between them, which he did very dexterously; it was loaded
with round and partridge shot; the last dropped in the water somewhat
short of them, but the round shot went between both boats, and grazed
about one hundred yards beyond them. This so affrighted them that they
both rowed away for the shore as fast as they could, without coming near
each other; and the little boats made the best of their way after them.
And now, having a gentle breeze at south-south-east, we bore into the bay
after them. When we came by the point, I saw a great number of men
peeping from under the rocks: I ordered a shot to be fired close by, to
scare them. The shot grazed between us and the point, and, mounting
again, flew over the point, and grazed a second time just by them. We
were obliged to sail along close by the bays; and, seeing multitudes
sitting under the trees, I ordered a third gun to be fired among the
cocoa-nut-trees to scare them; for my business being to wood and water, I
thought it necessary to strike some terror into the inhabitants, who were
very numerous, and (by what I saw now, and had formerly experienced)
treacherous. After this I sent my boat to sound; they had first forty,
then thirty, and at last twenty fathom water. We followed the boat, and
came to anchor about a quarter of a mile from the shore, in twenty-six
fathom water, fine black sand and ooze. We rode right against the mouth
of a small river, where I hoped to find fresh water. Some of the natives
standing on a small point at the river's mouth, I sent a small shot over
their heads to frighten them, which it did effectually. In the afternoon
I sent my boat ashore to the natives who stood upon the point by the
river's mouth with a present of cocoa-nuts; when the boat was come near
the shore, they came running into the water, and put their nuts into the
boat. Then I made a signal for the boat to come aboard, and sent both it
and the yawl into the river to look for fresh water, ordering the pinnace
to lie near the river's mouth, while the yawl went up to search. In an
hour's time they returned aboard with some barrecoes full fresh of water;
which they had taken up about half a mile up the river. After which I
sent them again with casks, ordering one of them to fill water, and the
other to watch the motions of the natives, lest they should make any
opposition. But they did not, and so the boats returned a little before
sunset with a tun and a half of water; and the next day by noon brought
aboard about six tuns of water.
I sent ashore commodities to purchase hogs, &c. being informed that the
natives have plenty of them, as also of yams and other good roots; but my
men returned without getting anything that I sent them for, the natives
being unwilling to trade with us. Yet they admired our hatchets and
axes, but would part with nothing but cocoa-nuts, which they used to
climb the trees for; and so soon as they gave them our men, they beckoned
to them to be gone, for they were much afraid of us.
The 18th I sent both boats again for water, and before noon they had
filled all my casks. In the afternoon I sent them both to cut wood; but
seeing about forty natives standing on the bay at a small distance from
our men, I made a signal for them to come aboard again, which they did,
and brought me word that the men which we saw on the bay were passing
that way, but were afraid to come nigh them. At four o'clock I sent both
the boats again for more wood, and they returned in the evening. Then I
called my officers to consult whether it were convenient to stay here
longer, and endeavour a better acquaintance with these people, or go to
sea. My design of tarrying here longer was, if possible, to get some
hogs, goats, yams, or other roots, as also to get some knowledge of the
country and its product. My officers unanimously gave their opinions for
staying longer here. So the next day I sent both boats ashore again, to
fish and to cut more wood. While they were ashore about thirty or forty
men and women passed by them; they were a little afraid of our people at
first, but upon their making signs of friendship, they passed by quietly,
the men finely bedecked with feathers of divers colours about their
heads, and lances in their hands; the women had no ornament about them,
nor anything to cover their nakedness but a bunch of small green boughs
before and behind, stuck under a string which came round their waists.
They carried large baskets on their heads, full of yams. And this I have
observed amongst all the wild natives I have known, that they make their
women carry the burdens while the men walk before, without any other load
than their arms and ornaments. At noon our men came aboard with the wood
they had cut, and had caught but six fishes at four or five hauls of the
seine, though we saw abundance of fish leaping in the bay all the day
long.
In the afternoon I sent the boats ashore for more wood; and some of our
men went to the natives' houses, and found they were now more shy than
they used to be, had taken down all the cocoa-nuts from the trees, and
driven away their hogs. Our people made signs to them to know what was
become of their hogs, &e. The natives pointing to some houses in the
bottom of the bay, and imitating the noise of those creatures, seemed to
intimate that there were both hogs and goats of several sizes, which they
expressed by holding their hands abroad at several distances from the
ground.
At night our boats came aboard with wood, and the next morning I went
myself with both boats up the river to the watering-place, carrying with
me all such trifles and iron-work as I thought most proper to induce them
to a commerce with us; but I found them very shy and roguish. I saw but
two men and a boy. One of the men, by some signs, was persuaded to come
to the boat's side, where I was; to him I gave a knife, a string of
beads, and a glass bottle. The fellow called out, "Cocos, cocos,"
pointing to a village hard by, and signified to us that he would go for
some; but he never returned to us: and thus they had frequently of late
served our men. I took eight or nine men with me, and marched to their
houses, which I found very mean, and their doors made fast with withies.
I visited three of their villages, and, finding all the houses thus
abandoned by the inhabitants, who carried with them all their hogs, &c.,
I brought out of their houses some small fishing-nets in recompense for
those things they had received of us. As we were coming away we saw two
of the natives; I showed them the things that we carried with us, and
called to them, "Cocos, cocos," to let them know that I took these things
because they had not made good what they had promised by their signs, and
by their calling out "Cocos." While I was thus employed the men in the
yawl filled two hogsheads of water, and all the barrecoes. About one in
the afternoon I came aboard, and found all my officers and men very
importunate to go to that bay where the hogs were said to be. I was loth
to yield to it, fearing they would deal too roughly with the natives. By
two o'clock in the afternoon many black clouds gathered over the land,
which I thought would deter them from their enterprise; but they
solicited me the more to let them go. At last I consented, sending those
commodities I had ashore with me in the morning, and giving them a strict
charge to deal by fair means, and to act cautiously for their own
security. The bay I sent them to was about two miles from the ship. As
soon as they were gone, I got all things ready, that, if I saw occasion,
I might assist them with my great guns. When they came to land, the
natives in great companies stood to resist them, shaking their lances,
and threatening them, and some were so daring as to wade into the sea,
holding a target in one hand and a lance in the other. Our men held up
to them such commodities as I had sent, and made signs of friendship, but
to no purpose, for the natives waved them off. Seeing, therefore, they
could not be prevailed upon to a friendly commerce, my men, being
resolved to have some provision among them, fired some muskets to scare
them away, which had the desired effect upon all but two or three, who
stood still in a menacing posture, till the boldest dropped his target
and ran away. They supposed he was shot in the arm; he and some others
felt the smart of our bullets, but none were killed, our design being
rather to frighten than to kill them. Our men landed, and found
abundance of tame hogs running among the houses. They shot down nine,
which they brought away, besides many that ran away wounded. They had
but little time, for in less than an hour after they went from the ship
it began to rain; wherefore they got what they could into the boats, for
I had charged them to come away if it rained. By the time the boat was
aboard and the hogs taken in it cleared up, and my men desired to make
another trip thither before night; this was about five in the evening,
and I consented, giving them orders to repair on board before night. In
the close of the evening they returned accordingly, with eight hogs more,
and a little live pig; and by this time the other hogs were jerked and
salted. These that came last we only dressed and corned till morning,
and then sent both boats ashore for more refreshments either of hogs or
roots; but in the night the natives had conveyed away their provisions of
all sorts. Many of them were now about the houses, and none offered to
resist our boats landing, but, on the contrary, were so amicable, that
one man brought ten or twelve cocoa-nuts, left them on the shore after he
had shown them to our men, and went out of sight. Our people, finding
nothing but nets and images, brought some of them away, which two of my
men brought aboard in a small canoe, and presently after my boats came
off. I ordered the boatswain to take care of the nets till we came at
some place where they might be disposed of for some refreshment for the
use of all the company. The images I took into my own custody.
In the afternoon I sent the canoe to the place from whence she had been
brought, and in her two axes, two hatchets (one of them helved), six
knives, six looking-glasses, a large bunch of beads, and four glass
bottles. Our men drew the canoe ashore, placed the things to the best
advantage in her, and came off in the pinnace which I sent to guard them;
and now, being well-stocked with wood and all my water-casks full, I
resolved to sail the next morning. All the time of our stay here we had
very fair weather, only sometimes in the afternoon we had a shower of
rain, which lasted not above an hour at most; also some thunder and
lightning, with very little wind; we had sea and land breezes, the former
between the south-south-east, and the latter from north-east to north-
west.
This place I named Port Montague in honour of my noble patron: it lies in
the latitude of 6 degrees 10 minutes south, and meridian distance from
Cape St. George 151 miles west. The country hereabouts is mountainous
and woody, full of rich valleys and pleasant fresh-water brooks. The
mould in the valleys is deep and yellowish, that on the sides of the hill
of a very brown colour, and not very deep, but rocky underneath, yet
excellent planting land. The trees in general are neither very straight,
thick, nor tall, yet appear green and pleasant enough; some of them bore
flowers, some berries, and others big fruits, but all unknown to any of
us; cocoa-nut trees thrive very well here, as well on the bays by the sea-
side, as more remote among the plantations; the nuts are of an
indifferent size, the milk and kernel very thick and pleasant. Here is
ginger, yams, and other very good roots for the pot, that our men saw and
tasted; what other fruits or roots the country affords I know not. Here
are hogs and dogs; other land animals we saw none. The fowls we saw and
knew were pigeons, parrots, cockatoos, and crows like those in England; a
sort of birds about the bigness of a blackbird, and smaller birds many.
The sea and rivers have plenty of fish; we saw abundance, though we
caught but few, and these were cavallies, yellow-tails, and whip-rays.
We departed from hence on the 22nd of March, and on the 24th, in the
evening, we saw some high land bearing north-west half-west, to the west
of which we could see no land, though there appeared something like land
bearing west a little southerly, but not being sure of it, I steered west-
north-west all night, and kept going on with an easy sail, intending to
coast along the shore at a distance. At ten o'clock I saw a great fire
bearing north-west-by-west, blazing up in a pillar, sometimes very high
for three or four minutes, then falling quite down for an equal space of
time, sometimes hardly visible, till it blazed up again. I had laid me
down, having been indisposed these three days; but upon a sight of this,
my chief mate called me; I got up and viewed it for about half an hour,
and knew it to be a burning hill by its intervals: I charged them to look
well out, having bright moonlight. In the morning I found that the fire
we had seen the night before was a burning island, and steered for it. We
saw many other islands, one large high island, and another smaller but
pretty high. I stood near the volcano, and many small low islands, with
some shoals.
March the 25th, 1700, in the evening we came within three leagues of this
burning hill, being at the same time two leagues from the main; I found a
good channel to pass between them, and kept nearer the main than the
island. At seven in the evening I sounded, and had fifty-two fathom fine
sand and ooze. I stood to the northward to get clear of this strait,
having but little wind and fair weather. The island all night vomited
fire and smoke very amazingly, and at every belch we heard a dreadful
noise like thunder, and saw a flame of fire after it the most terrifying
that ever I saw; the intervals between its belches were about half a
minute, some more, others less; neither were these pulses or eruptions
alike, for some were but faint convulsions, in comparison of the more
vigorous; yet even the weakest vented a great deal of fire; but the
largest made a roaring noise, and sent up a large flame, twenty or thirty
yards high; and then might be seen a great stream of fire running down to
the foot of the island, even to the shore. From the furrows made by this
descending fire, we could, in the day time, see great smoke arise, which
probably were made by the sulphurous matter thrown out of the funnel at
the top, which tumbling down to the bottom, and there lying in a heap,
burned till either consumed or extinguished; and as long as it burned and
kept its heat, so long the smoke ascended from it; which we perceived to
increase or decrease, according to the quantity of matter discharged from
the funnel: but the next night, being shot to the westward of the burning
island, and the funnel of it lying on the south side, we could not
discern the fire there, as we did the smoke in the day when we were to
the southward of it. This volcano lies in the latitude of 5 degrees 33
minutes south, and meridian distance from Cape St. George, three hundred
and thirty-two miles west.
The easternmost part of New Guinea lies forty miles to the westward of
this tract of land; and by hydrographers they are made joining together;
but here I found an opening and passage between, with many islands, the
largest of which lie on the north side of this passage or strait. The
channel is very good, between the islands and the land to the eastward.
The east part of New Guinea is high and mountainous, ending on the north-
east with a large promontory, which I named King William's Cape, in
honour of his present Majesty. We saw some smoke on it, and leaving it
on our larboard side, steered away near the east land, which ends with
two remarkable capes or heads, distant from each other about six or seven
leagues: within each head were two very remarkable mountains, ascending
very gradually from the sea-side, which afforded a very pleasant and
agreeable prospect. The mountains and the lower land were pleasantly
mixed with woodland and savannahs; the trees appeared very green and
flourishing, and the savannahs seemed to be very smooth and even; no
meadow in England appears more green in the spring than these. We saw
smoke, but did not strive to anchor here, but rather chose to get under
one of the islands (where I thought I should find few or no inhabitants),
that I might repair my pinnace, which was so crazy that I could not
venture ashore anywhere with her. As we stood over to the islands, we
looked out very well to the north, but could see no land that way; by
which I was well assured that we were got through, and that this east
land does not join to New Guinea; therefore I named it Nova Britannia.
The north-west cape I called Cape Gloucester, and the south-west-point
Cape Anne; and the north-west mountain, which is very remarkable, I
called Mount Gloucester.
This island which I called Nova Britannia, has about 4 degrees of
latitude: the body of it lying in 4 degrees, and the northernmost part in
2 degrees 32 minutes, and the southernmost in 6 degrees 30 minutes south.
It has about 5 degrees 18 minutes longitude from east to west. It is
generally high mountainous land, mixed with large valleys, which, as well
as the mountains appeared very fertile; and in most places that we saw,
the trees are very large, tall and thick. It is also very well inhabited
with strong well-limbed negroes, whom we found very daring and bold at
several places. As to the product of it, I know no more than what I have
said in my account of Port Montague; but it is very probable this island
may afford as many rich commodities as any in the world: and the natives
may be easily brought to commerce, though I could not pretend to it under
my present circumstances.
Being near the island to the northward of the volcano, I sent my boat to
sound, thinking to anchor here, but she returned and brought me word,
that they had no ground till they met with a reef of coral rocks about a
mile from the shore, then I bore away to the north side of the island,
where we found no anchoring neither. We saw several people, and some
cocoa-nut trees, but could not send ashore for want of my pinnace, which
was out of order. In the evening I stood off to sea, to be at such a
distance that I might not be driven by any current upon the shoals of
this island, if it should prove calm. We had but little wind, especially
the beginning of the night; but in the morning I found myself so far to
the west of the island, that the wind being at east-south-east, I could
not fetch it, wherefore I kept on to the southward, and stemmed with the
body of a high island about eleven or twelve leagues long, lying to the
southward of that which I before designed for. I named this island Sir
George Rook's Island.
We also saw some other islands to the westward, which may be better seen
in my draft of these lands than here described; but seeing a very small
island lying to the north-west of the long island which was before us,
and not far from it. I steered away for that, hoping to find anchoring
there; and having but little wind, I sent my boat before to sound, which,
when we were about two miles' distance from the shore, came on board and
brought me word that there was good anchoring in thirty or forty fathom
water, a mile from the isle, and within a reef of the rocks which lay in
a half-moon, reaching from the north part of the island to the
south-east; so at noon we got in and anchored in thirty-six fathom, a
mile from the isle.
In the afternoon I sent my boat ashore to the island, to see what
convenience there was to haul our vessel ashore in order to be mended,
and whether we could catch any fish. My men in the boat rowed about the
island, but could not land by reason of the rocks and a great surge
running in upon the shore. We found variation here, 8 degrees 25 minutes
west.
I designed to have stayed among these islands till I got my pinnace
refitted; but having no more than one man who had skill to work upon her,
I saw she would be a long time in repairing (which was one great reason
why I could not prosecute my discoveries further); and the easterly winds
being set in, I found I should scarce be able to hold my ground.
The 31st, in the forenoon, we shot in between two islands, lying about
four leagues asunder, with intention to pass between them. The
southernmost is a long island, with a high hill at each end; this I named
Long Island. The northernmost is a round high island towering up with
several heads or tops, something resembling a crown; this I named Crown
Isle from its form. Both these islands appeared very pleasant, having
spots of green savannahs mixed among the woodland: the trees appeared
very green and flourishing, and some of them looked white and full of
blossoms. We passed close by Crown Isle, saw many cocoa-nut trees on the
bays and sides of the hills; and one boat was coming off from the shore,
but returned again. We saw no smoke on either of the islands, neither
did we see any plantations, and it is probable they are not very well
peopled. We saw many shoals near Crown Island, and reefs of rocks
running off from the points a mile or more into the sea: my boat was once
overboard, with design to have sent her ashore, but having little wind,
and seeing some shoals, I hoisted her in again, and stood off out of
danger.
In the afternoon, seeing an island bearing north-west-by-west, we steered
away north-west-by-north, to be to the northward of it. The next
morning, being about midway from the islands we left yesterday, and
having this to the westward of us, the land of the main of New Guinea
within us to the southward, appeared very high. When we came within four
or five leagues of this island to the west of us, four boats came off to
view us, one came within call, but returned with the other three without
speaking to us; so we kept on for the island, which I named Sir R. Rich's
Island. It was pretty high, woody, and mixed with savannahs like those
formerly mentioned. Being to the north of it, we saw an opening between
it and another island two leagues to the west of it, which before
appeared all in one. The main seemed to be high land, trending to the
westward.
On Tuesday, the 2nd of April, about eight in the morning, we discovered a
high-peaked island to the westward, which seemed to smoke at its top: the
next day we passed by the north side of the Burning Island, and saw smoke
again at its top, but the vent lying on the south side of the peak, we
could not observe it distinctly, nor see the fire. We afterwards opened
three more islands, and some land to the southward, which we could not
well tell whether it were islands or part of the main. These islands are
all high, full of fair trees and spots of great savannahs, as well the
Burning Isle as the rest; but the Burning Isle was more round and peaked
at top, very fine land near the sea, and for two-thirds up it: we also
saw another isle sending forth a great smoke at once, but it soon
vanished, and we saw it no more; we saw also among these islands three
small vessels with sails, which the people of Nova Britannia seem wholly
ignorant of.
The 11th, at noon, having a very good observation, I found myself to the
northward of my reckoning, and thence concluded that we had a current
setting north-west, or rather more westerly, as the land lies. From that
time to the next morning we had fair clear weather, and a fine moderate
gale from south-east to east-by-north: but at daybreak the clouds began
to fly, and it lightened very much in the east, south-east, and north-
east. At sun-rising, the sky looked very red in the east near the
horizon, and there were many black clouds both to the south and north of
it. About a quarter of an hour after the sun was up, there was a squall
to the windward of us; when on sudden one of our men on the forecastle
called out that he saw something astern, but could not tell what: I
looked out for it, and immediately saw a spout beginning to work within a
quarter of a mile of us, exactly in the wind: we presently put right
before it. It came very swiftly, whirling the water up in a pillar about
six or seven yards high. As yet I could not see any pendulous cloud,
from whence it might come, and was in hopes it would soon lose its force.
In four or five minutes' time it came within a cable's length of us, and
passed away to leeward, and then I saw a long pale stream coming down to
the whirling water. This stream was about the bigness of a rainbow: the
upper end seemed vastly high, not descending from any dark cloud, and
therefore the more strange to me, I never having seen the like before. It
passed about a mile to leeward of us, and then broke. This was but a
small spout, not strong nor lasting; yet I perceived much wind in it as
it passed by us. The current still continued at north-west a little
westerly, which I allowed to run a mile per hour.
By an observation the 13th, at noon, I found myself 25 minutes to the
northward of my reckoning; whether occasioned by bad steerage, a bad
account, or a current, I could not determine; but was apt to judge it
might be a complication of all; for I could not think it was wholly the
current, the land here lying east-by-south, and west-by-north, or a
little more northerly and southerly. We had kept so nigh as to see it,
and at farthest had not been above twenty leagues from it, but sometimes
much nearer; and it is not probable that any current should set directly
off from a land. A tide indeed may; but then the flood has the same
force to strike in upon the shore, as the ebb to strike off from it: but
a current must have set nearly along shore, either easterly or westerly;
and if anything northerly or southerly, it could be but very little in
comparison of its east or west course, on a coast lying as this doth;
which yet we did not perceive. If therefore we were deceived by a
current, it is very probable that the land is here disjoined, and that
there is a passage through to the southward, and that the land from King
William's Cape to this place is an island, separated from New Guinea by
some strait, as Nova Britannia is by that which we came through. But
this being at best but a probable conjecture, I shall insist no farther
upon it.
The 14th we passed by Scouten's Island, and Providence Island, and found
still a very strong current setting to the north-west. On the 17th we
saw a high mountain on the main, that sent forth great quantities of
smoke from its top: this volcano we did not see in our voyage out. In
the afternoon we discovered King William's Island, and crowded all the
sail we could to get near it before night, thinking to lie to the
eastward of it till day, for fear of some shoals that lie at the west end
of it. Before night we got within two leagues of it, and having a fine
gale of wind and a light moon, I resolved to pass through in the night,
which I hoped to do before twelve o'clock, if the gale continued; but
when we came within two miles of it, it fell calm: yet afterwards by the
help of the current, a small gale, and our boat, we got through before
day. In the night we had a very fragrant smell from the island. By
morning light we were got two leagues to the westward of it; and then
were becalmed all the morning; and met such whirling tides, that when we
came into them, the ship turned quite round: and though sometimes we had
a small gale of wind, yet she could not feel the helm when she came into
these whirlpools: neither could we get from amongst them, till a brisk
gale sprang up: yet we drove not much any way, but whirled round like a
top. And those whirlpools were not constant to one place but drove about
strangely: and sometimes we saw among them large ripplings of the water,
like great over-falls making a fearful noise. I sent my boat to sound,
but found no ground.
The 18th Cape Mabo bore south, distance nine leagues; by which account it
lies in the latitude of 50 minutes south, and meridian distance from Cape
St. George one thousand two hundred and forty-three miles. St. John's
Isle lies forty-eight miles to the east of Cape St. George; which being
added to the distance between Cape St. George and Cape Mabo, makes one
thousand two hundred and ninety-one meridional parts; which was the
furthest that I was to the east. In my outward-bound voyage I made
meridian distance between Cape Mabo and Cape St. George, one thousand two
hundred and ninety miles; and now in my return, but one thousand two
hundred and forty-three; which is forty-seven short of my distance going
out. This difference may probably be occasioned by the strong western
current which we found in our return, which I allowed for after I
perceived it; and though we did not discern any current when we went to
the eastward, except when near the islands, yet it is probable we had one
against us, though we did not take notice of it because of the strong
easterly winds. King William's Island lies in the latitude of 21 minutes
south, and may be seen distinctly off Cape Mabo.
In the evening we passed by Cape Mabo; and afterwards steered away south-
east half-east, keeping along the shore, which here trends
south-easterly. The next morning, seeing a large opening in the land,
with an island near the south side; I stood in, thinking to anchor there.
When we were shot in within two leagues of the island, the wind came to
the west, which blows right into the opening. I stood to the north
shore, intending, when I came pretty nigh, to send my boat into the
opening and sound, before I would venture in. We found several deep
bays, but no soundings within two miles of the shore; therefore I stood
off again, then seeing a rippling under our lee, I sent my boat to sound
on it; which returned in half an hour, and brought me word that the
rippling we saw was only a tide, and that they had no ground there.