HAVANA.

After resting in my novel couch that evening, and experiencing no hurt

from the so-called formidable mosquito of the West Indies, I started

next morning, after a ten-o'clock breakfast of poached eggs, fried

plantains, meats of various kinds spiced with garlic, fruits, and other

nice things, to the Plaza de Armas, which is a beautiful square, and

only a couple of blocks from the Hotel de Europa. Towards evening the

Plaza presents a glittering sight. Its handsome palm-trees, roses,

Indian laurels, flowering shrubs, piers, railings, and statue of

Ferdinand, form a grand combination. The rambler to whom such scenes are

new, sinks almost unconsciously into a seat, and surrenders himself to

the irresistible influence of the music, fragrance and brilliancy of the

place. The military band discourses soft and delicious music. Soldiers

in gay uniforms, civilians in handsome dresses, and carriages containing

the wealthiest and handsomest of Havana's daughters, fill the square,

and one delightful stream of chat and laughter continues till the

performance is ended. The fine palace of the captain-general, the

beautiful chapel, El Templete (erected in honor of Columbus), the

university attached to the Church of St. Domingo, and several stores and

exchange offices border the Plaza. The scene is tropical, the moon's

clear beams mingle with the lamplight, and the sense of tranquility,

happiness, and repose, which characterizes the place and the crowds,

gives one a foretaste of Paradise. A very old tree stands in front of

the temple, and here it was that the first Mass was celebrated in the

island. The palace of the captain-general is two stories high, painted

light green, having a magnificent colonnade around the lower story, and

an elegant piazza around the upper one. On visiting it next day, I was

politely escorted by an officer through flights of marble staircases,

embellished with statuary and flower vases, into the presence of the

captain-general. He led me by vast, rich corridors to saloons

embellished with green furniture, marble floors, rich vases, walls full

of paintings, mirrors and statues. The ceilings were ornamented with

exquisite mosaics. The despatch apartment, dining-room, and chapel were

reached through splendid arches and highly-wrought pillars. Chandeliers

of exquisite design and great value added to the splendor of the

saloons. In winter the captain-general resides in the city palace; but

in summer he takes up his abode at the quinta, or country seat, outside

the town. A few minutes walk from here will take you to the cathedral,

which is a ponderous, time-worn building, constructed of a kind of

yellow stone, which has become mottled by age. I noticed doves cooing in

its heavy old window-sills. Though the exterior is plain, the inside of

the building is grand. Its floor is of marble, its walls are highly

frescoed, and its pillars are very lofty and round. The high altar is

of porphyry, and when I visited it, itself and the body of the church

were undergoing repairs. A feature which is sure to interest every

traveller, is a simple slab in the wall of the chancel to the left of

the sanctuary. Behind this, rests the remains of the illustrious

Columbus. A feeling of reverence and awe took possession of me as I

recalled the religious and brave career of that wonderful man, who, from

first to last, clung so strong to his holy faith. A courteous sacristan

next showed me the beautiful vestments and sacred vessels in use at the

cathedral. Chief amongst those was a remonstrance to hold the Blessed

Sacrament during processions like those of Corpus Christi. It stood six

or seven feet high, and was made of pure silver, enriched here and there

with gold and precious stones. It was a perfect representation of a

gorgeous gothic cathedral. The priests connected with the church are

very courteous and hospitable, and are but a short distance from the

seminary, to which I next bent my footsteps.

This is a sombre and massive edifice. After passing a huge gateway, I

entered a large courtyard, which was ornamented with big, flowering

plants and Indian laurels. Fifty or sixty grand pillars supported

piazzas around the court. The porter brought to me the director of the

seminary, who proved to be a young and very agreeable priest. He offered

me the hospitalities of the seminary, and asked me to take a look at the

house. He could converse fluently in English, having been several years

in the United States. I learned from him that this institution, like the

cathedral, was about three hundred years old, that the majority of

candidates for holy orders were young men, natives of the Island, and

that such was not the case till recently, as in the past all the

aspirants for the ministry came directly from Spain. The faculty of the

house demanded postulants of a high standard, as could be seen from the

fact that out of twenty-four who applied for admission on the previous

year only nine were received.

While walking with the reverend director on one of the verandas

overlooking the court, my attention was drawn to the students who came

out of their class-rooms to take recreation. They were all very handsome

young men. Five Lazarist priests and two lay professors take charge of

the house and classes. The course includes the sciences of the schools,

humanities, philosophy and theology. The class-rooms, refectory, library

and halls of the house were lofty and very well kept. The dormitory, two

hundred feet long, was finely situated, and had sixteen large windows

looking out upon the bay, forts, ships and hills. The students retire to

rest at nine o'clock and get up at five in the morning, when they make

their meditation and assist at Mass. They partake of a little bread and

coffee at 6.45 A.M., dine at 11.30 and sup at 7 P.M. Such, also, is the

custom of the Spanish seminaries.

After leaving this institution, I pursued a northern course, passing by

huge barracks, in front of which soldiers were keeping guard. The palace

of the general of engineers stands in this vicinity. I had the pleasure

of an introduction to the commander, Signor Jose Aparicio y Beltram, a

Spanish gentleman of great courtesy and intelligence. He showed me all

that was interesting in this grand building of pillars, saloons and

courts.

The city prison is situated about ten minutes' walk from this spot, and

is a very large, two-storied building, resembling a palace more than a

jail. On introducing myself, and presenting a card from the

adjutant-general, I was very politely received by Signor Jose Gramaren y

Voreye, chief of the prisons of the Isle of Cuba. The interior of the

prison is entirely unlike anything of the sort in the United States. The

prisoners, about two hundred in number, committed for political and

criminal offences, are confined in large, unfurnished rooms, whose

floors are of stone, and whose only ornaments are iron posts and chains.

Sad-looking, half-naked creatures stared at me in silence as I entered,

and then resumed their walks and conversation. Separate wards were

reserved for the Chinese and Negro offenders, and a large, neat chapel,

where Mass was celebrated every Sunday, was at hand for the

accommodation of all. The prison is situated in the new part of the

city, on a magnificent, wide street, lined with trees. This carries you

directly to one of the most superb promenades and drives in the

town--viz: the Parque de Isabella 2d. Here the wealth and beauty of

Havana turn out, especially in the evenings, to take the fresh air, and

exhibit themselves in splendid carriages behind prancing steeds. The

finest theatres and hotels of the city are in this neighborhood, and the

scene towards evening becomes quite fairy-like owing to the multitudes

of lights that fall on statues, fountains, gay promenaders, flowers and

palms, which stretch away for an immense distance. Here soldiers,

sailors and civilians mingle, now walking, now resting on iron seats

near flowery bowers. Members of the municipal police go by, dressed in

dark uniforms, carrying swords, whistles and batons. Some of the night

police stroll along in the evening, in black uniforms, bearing red lamps

and lancers. Crowds of people, who remain in-doors during the intense

heat of the day, come to the Parque at dusk to breathe the cool air, and

listen to the music of the military band, that plays every second night

near the principal statue and fountain.

A little beyond the Parque towers aloft the grand new city market (Plaza

de Vapor), one of the finest in the world, adorned in front by a noble

colonnade. The numerous and handsome stalls are filled with goods of all

kinds; and among the most attractive of the displays are the rich,

luscious and lovely fruits of the island. This edifice is well worth

seeing. The Campo de Marte and the Paseo de Tacon, in this neighborhood,

are magnificent drives. The latter leads out to the suburbs, and beyond

the quinta, or country residence of the captain-general. Next day I

resolved to see the Casus de Benefecentia, which is situated at the

north-west of the city, in front of the ocean. It is the most famous

benevolent institution in Cuba, and is under the charge of the Sisters

of Charity. It consists of a file of buildings, of solid masonry painted

a tawny brown. After knocking at an immense door, I was admitted by the

porter, who introduced me to the director of the institution. He has a

smattering of English and was very polite.

Signor Antonio Gorherti introduced me to several of the good sisters,

who were dressed in white caps and blue habits. We walked through the

grounds of the institution. These were very large and highly ornamented.

Twenty-four sisters dwelt in the house. The building had two divisions,

one for females and the other for males. The majority were destitute

orphans of both sexes, the rest were infirm adults. The entire number of

its inmates was about seven hundred. We went through the Baptistry,

which was fifty or sixty feet high, and entered the chapel, which had a

beautiful gallery and mosaic ceiling, then passed through a private

chapel where the Blessed Sacrament was kept. All these were finely

embellished with paintings. The large wards and dormitories were kept

scrupulously clean, and provided with numerous nurses, who received

thirty dollars a month in gold for their services. Every attention is

paid to the sick, and the best physicians are daily in attendance.

Sister Josepha, who had charge of the girls, showed me some very

beautiful embroidery and fancy work made by them. They presented many

gifts to the captain-general, who was a liberal patron of the

institution. The physical as well as religious and moral training of the

children was creditably attended to; all looked in fine health and

enjoyed good food, as well as the refreshing breezes of the sea, which

swept through the grounds. Their knowledge of the Christian truths was

excellent, and no wonder, as the educational system practised by the

sisters was exceedingly interesting, simple and comprehensive. The boys

and girls were formed into various religious sodalities, and I was

perfectly charmed with the manner in which so many, of almost every

color, united in singing sacred hymns in the Spanish language.

It would take pages to describe the attractions of this institution

which commanded the respect and sympathy of all classes in Havana.

Though chiefly sustained by the government, still it often receives

magnificent bequests. One gentleman left the establishment two hundred

thousand dollars. His name will ever be held in grateful remembrance.

The untiring zeal of the good sisters makes the institution a perfect

success. On my return to the hotel, I dropped into the fish market which

adjoins the cathedral. The display of the finny tribe here was perfectly

gorgeous. Fish of every color, beautifully striped, and with glittering

scales, lay on the benches, after having lately been snatched from the

transparent Cuban waters. They presented a tempting sight to the crowd

of hungry darkies who lounged around the stalls.

After a rest and an elaborately compounded dinner of fruits, vegetables

and meats, all savored with garlic and spices of various kinds, and

having been regaled with the rest of the guests, during its course, by a

band of music, I resolved to go and see the quinta, or suburban

residence of the captain-general. The drive to this place by the Paseo

de Tacon is very beautiful and refreshing. On entering the suburbs it is

lined with handsome villas and closely packed houses, which soon give

way to isolated mansions, green fields, blooming gardens and tropical

trees. The grounds of the captain-general are adorned by a splendid

entrance, grand walks, flower beds and avenues of palm trees. As I

sauntered along the gravel walks I noticed all kinds of cacti, roses,

cocoa and royal palms. On calling on the captain-general's widow I was

warmly welcomed by Signor Juan Batalla, the major-domo, and his lady,

both good Catholics. They kindly accompanied me through the grounds. I

saw great masses of dahlias, fuchsias, colens, kaladimus, and century

plants flourishing here in their warm native soil. Down a short distance

from the house we came upon a lovely cascade which threw its silvery

spray over numbers of blossoming vines. It seemed almost impossible to

check (if one barbarously desired to do so) the growth and beauty of the

flowers that lined the smooth, clear canal below the waterfall. Hundreds

of dresinas, other rare plants, and sweet-scented flowers made the air

heavy with their fragrance, while the lofty Indian laurels and palms

looked down like lords on the dwarf beauties growing at their feet. All

kinds of ducks sported in the canal, and tame deer browsed near its

banks. Signor Juan pointed with pride to a ceiba tree, about a hundred

feet high, and enthusiastically remarked what a brave one it was, since

it stood there since the time of Columbus. After taking along with me a

few mementos from the signor, I quitted this enchanting spot with

feelings of regret and returned to the city.

The Church de Mercede which I next visited, is the handsomest in Havana.

It stands at the south-east of the city, and exteriorly presents a very

noble and finished appearance. I saw it on Quinquagesima Sunday, when

the devotion of the Forty Hours was in progress. The church, at the

Solemn High Mass (8 A.M.), was filled to overflowing, and the music,

which was rendered by a very large orchestra, was very fine. The

interior of the church was remarkable for its artistic beauty. Under the

faithful direction of the Lazarist Fathers, who came to Havana in 1863,

this edifice was carried to its present state of completion. The

building measures two hundred feet long by about ninety wide. Its grand

high altar and eight side ones force themselves upon your view by their

essential splendor, yet the extravagant and costly drapery of the

statuary on most of them, though agreeable to the Spaniards, is hurtful

to the taste of one coming from the United States. On the left of the

high altar stands a magnificent one of our Lady of Lourdes. The side

walls all around are grandly frescoed, and the ceiling is painted a

beautiful sky blue, with white clouds here and there, out of which peep

lovely bright angels. The oil paintings on the side walls of this church

must have cost thousands of dollars each, they are so large, richly

mounted and life-like in their execution. The grand altar, like the

church, is Corinthian in shape, and literally glittered with lights on

the morning I saw it. A great, high, solid ornament rested over the

reredos, looking like a papal tiara resplendent with gems. The marble

altar steps and pillars of light green shooting up to the roof, the

beautiful velvet sanctuary carpet and the crimson damask curtains

hanging from the side walls of the sanctuary gave a superb effect to the

full front view. The white and gold tabernacle, adorned with delicate

crimson lace, looked magnificent as the mellow sunlight flooded it. The

large congregation were wrapped up in devotion, and listened with great

attention and delight to a sermon on faith which was powerfully

delivered in Spanish by one of the Lazarist Fathers. When the Mass

ended, I accompanied the Fathers to their modest, neat rooms, where I

was delightfully entertained. These priests displayed a great amount of

knowledge and refinement. Though few could speak English, yet all could,

of course, converse in Latin, and this tongue they uttered with great

accuracy and fluency. I will always remember the kindness of these

priests and the grandeur of their sacred temple.

The palace of the admiral, which I visited on the following day, is a

very handsome structure, built in Grecian style and painted a delicate

light blue. It stands near the custom-house and faces the bay. On

introducing myself, and presenting the card of the adjutant-general, I

was courteously conducted to the side of an officer by one of the guards

at the gate. The officer soon led me up a flight of marble stairs

through grand, lofty antechambers into the presence of the admiral, a

tall, handsome old gentleman. He welcomed me very cordially, and

introduced me to his son, a noble-looking young man dressed in the

uniform of a superior officer. The latter was not long resident in Cuba,

having recently arrived from Spain. He conversed very pleasantly in

English about the United States, Cuba, and other topics; then showed me

through the house, which contained magnificent apartments all furnished

in regal style. The chapel was gorgeous.

After leaving the palace of the admiral, where I was so kindly treated,

I went to the arsenal, the extensive grounds, pretty church and military

stores of which are well worth noticing. A short distance from here and

you come to the military hospital. This is an immense establishment,

surrounded by a strong, thick wall, of a light brown color. Its many

gates were guarded by armed sentinels. On inquiring for the Padre Cure,

I was shown to his presence by a guide in military uniform. The Padre

was a large, good-natured-looking person. He was seated at his desk,

over a volume, when I entered. The appearance of his room showed that

the occupant was a student and a business man. The walls were lined with

books, and materials suited to his sacred calling were here and there

systematically fixed. Padre Toaquin Salvadorez received me like a

generous-hearted, highly-cultivated gentleman. After a brief chat, he

led me through the hospital. We passed through numerous offices, where

we saw the superior and directors of the institution. Signors Don

Antonius Pardinas, J. A. Salazaro, Don Edwardo Crespo and Don Jose Yara

Goza, were wonderfully polite and pleasant gentlemen. We entered the

wards of the hospital, which are attended by the Sisters of Charity.

Almost every bed was occupied by a sick soldier. Most of them were young

men not long from Spain, who came to serve the kingdom on a foreign

territory. The marks of fever and wounds lay heavy upon them. I noticed

sick soldiers and sailors, reading, writing and dozing. Several walked

along the corridors dressed in long, white gowns, slippers and turbans,

directing a nod and a smile to us as they passed by. The good Father

informed me that over one thousand were confined in the hospital,

attended by twenty-four nurses, who spared neither time nor effort to

make them comfortable.

The rooms were large, airy and full of the odor of tropical fruits and

flowers. Beautiful religious pictures hung in several places and good

pious books were abundant. The officers' rooms had a large quota of

patients. All were brought by sickness to a level with the commonest

soldier. We went through the surgical rooms, where operations were wont

to be performed. We entered the chapel, a richly adorned and commodious

one, where the good sisters so often knelt to pray for the poor

invalids. Large, cooling arches spread away before us, and courtyards

full of flowers and gushing fountains gave refreshment and rest to the

inmates of this vast institution. The good Father showed me immense

cellars which contained barrels full of drugs of all kinds. The

establishment had three drug stores, all of which were busy supplying

the sick with medicines. A proof of the remarkable care taken by the

doctors and sisters of the sick in this hospital, may be seen from a

report made by a board of investigation which visited Havana in 1880, to

inquire into the yellow fever. During the year, 1360 of the army were

seized with this disease, 956 outlived it and 411 died, 3 remaining in a

doubtful condition. Out of the 174 seized by the disease in the navy,

109 lived and 64 died, 1 remaining in a doubtful state. Out of a total

of 1541 invalids 1069 lived and 475 died, 4 remaining in a doubtful

condition, thus producing a proportion of 30 to 6 signed by 36 Havana

doctors for the army, 4 for the navy, 4 apothecaries, 3 priests and 3 of

the military administration.

Father Salvadorez pointed out to me immense stores as we walked along,

where great quantities of dry goods were piled up so as to provide the

sick with clothing and bandages, also immense stores in which groceries

of every kind were packed. The ambulance department, where everything

needed for sick soldiers could be had, was well worth seeing, also the

rest of the rooms and stores in connection with the building. The insane

department contained but one unhappy case. He was a young man with pale

face, long, black, flowing hair, and dark eyes full of sadness that

stared at us gloomily as we went in. A few words of cheer from the Padre

encouraged him, so he smiled, nodded his head, and then retired to a

corner of his cell. Father Salvadorez receives a salary of two thousand

dollars a year, and each of his assistants gets one thousand dollars. A

military attendant is attached to each. It is, indeed, a delightful

treat to form the acquaintance of the Padre and the officers of the

military hospital. If the stranger knows a little Latin, Italian, or

Spanish, he can chat with them, and get a good deal of information.

Their expressive gestures will go a good way to supply their lack of

English. It afforded me no small share of pleasure to meet at the

hospital, among the thirty-four sisters in charge, a novice who had

recently arrived from Cork, Ireland. She was the only Irish one among a

number of French and Spanish sisters, but certainly not the least loved.

After passing a few delightful hours of inspection, I bade adieu to the

Padre, whom I promised to meet at the university next day. On the

following morning, at nine o'clock, I heard him deliver a grand essay in

defence of the Syllabus, before a very large and attentive assemblage of

students.

After viewing the chief features of interest in Havana, I bade the city

good-by, and set out for Matanzas, to see its famous Yumuri Valley and

caves of Bellamare (of the beautiful sea).