ACCOUNT OF THE INLAND COUNTRY OF KORINCHI.
EXPEDITION TO THE SERAMPEI AND SUNGEI-TENANG COUNTRIES.
COUNTRY OF KORINCHI.
At the back of the range of high mountains by which the countries of
Indrapura and Anak-sungei are bounded lies the district or valley of
Korinchi, which, from its secluded situation, has hitherto been little
known to Europeans. In the year 1800 Mr. Charles Campbell, whose name I
have had frequent occasion to mention, was led to visit this spot, in the
laudable pursuit of objects for the improvement of natural history, and
from his correspondence I shall extract such parts as I have reason to
hope will be gratifying to the reader.
MR. CAMPBELL'S JOURNEY.
Says this indefatigable traveller:
The country of Korinchi first occupied my attention. From the sea-coast
at Moco-moco to the foot of the mountains cost us three days' weary
journey, and although our path was devious I cannot estimate the distance
at less than thirty miles, for it was late on the fourth day when we
began to ascend. Your conjecture that the ridge is broader betwixt the
plains of Anak-sungei and valley of Korinchi than that which we see from
Bencoolen is just. Our route in general lay north-east until we attained
the summit of the first high range, from which elevated situation,
through an opening in the wood, the Pagi or Nassau Islands were clearly
visible. During the next day our course along the ridge of hills was a
little to the northward of northwest, and for the two following days
almost due north, through as noble a forest as was ever penetrated by
man. On the evening of the last we descended by a steep and seemingly
short path from the summit of the second range (for there are obviously
two) into the Korinchi country.
SITUATION OF LAKE.
This descent did not occupy us more than twenty minutes, so that the
valley must lie at a great height above the level of the sea; but it was
yet a few days march to the inhabited and cultivated land on the border
of the great lake, which I conjecture to be situated directly behind
Indrapura, or north-east from the mouth of that river. There are two
lakes, but one of them is inconsiderable. I sailed for some time on the
former, which may be nearly as broad as the strait between Bencoolen and
Rat Island. My companions estimated it at seven miles; but the eye is
liable to much deception, and, having seen nothing for many days but
rivulets, the grandeur of the sheet of water, when it first burst upon
our sight, perhaps induced us to form too high a notion of its extent.
Its banks were studded with villages; it abounds with fish, particularly
the summah, a species of cyprinus; its waters are clear and beautiful
from the reflection of the black and shining sand which covers the bottom
in many places to the depth of eight or ten inches.
INHABITANTS.
The inhabitants are below the common stature of the Malays, with harder
visages and higher cheekbones, well knit in their limbs, and active; not
deficient in hospitality, but jealous of strangers. The women, excepting
a few of the daughters of the chiefs, were in general illfavoured, and
even savage in their aspect. At the village of In-juan on the borders of
the lake I saw some of them with rings of copper and shells among their
hair; they wore destars round their heads like the men, and almost all of
them had siwars or small daggers at their sides. They were not shut up or
concealed from us, but mixed with our party, on the contrary, with much
frankness.
BUILDINGS.
The people dwell in hordes, many families being crowded together in one
long building. That in which I lived gave shelter to twenty-five
families. The front was one long undivided verandah, where the unmarried
men slept; the back part was partitioned into small cabins, each of which
had a round hole with a door to fit it, and through this the female
inmates crept backwards and forwards in the most awkward manner and
ridiculous posture. This house was in length two hundred and thirty feet,
and elevated from the ground. Those belonging to the chiefs were smaller,
well constructed of timber and plank, and covered with shingles or thin
plates of board bound on with rattans, about the size and having much the
appearance of our slates.
DRESSES.
The dresses of the young women of rank were pretty enough. A large blue
turband, woven with silver chains, which, meeting behind and crossing,
were fastened to the earrings in festoons, decorated their heads. In this
was placed a large plume of cock's feathers, bending forward over the
face. The jacket was blue, of a silky texture, their own work, and
bordered with small gold chain. The body-dress, likewise of their own
weaving, was of cotton mingled with silk, richly striped and mixed with
gold thread; but they wear it no lower than the knees. The youths of
fashion were in a kind of harlequin habit, the forepart of the trousers
white, the back-part blue; their jacket after the same fashion. They
delighted much in an instrument made from some part of the iju palm-tree,
which resembled and produced a sound like the jews-harp.
COOKERY.
Their domestic economy (I speak of the houses of the chiefs) seemed
better regulated than it generally is in these countries; they seemed
tolerably advanced in the art of cookery, and had much variety of food;
such as the flesh of deer, which they take in rattan snares, wild ducks,
abounding on the lake; green pigeons, quails innumerable; and a variety
of fish beside the summah already mentioned, and the ikan gadis, a
species of carp which attains to a greater size here than in the rivers.
ESCULENT VEGETABLES.
The potato, which was introduced there many years ago, is now a common
article of food, and cultivated with some attention. Their plantations
supply many esculent herbs, fruits, and roots; but the coconut, although
reared as a curiosity, is abortive in these inland regions, and its place
is supplied by the buah kras (Juglans camirium), of which they also make
their torches. Excellent tobacco is grown there, also cotton and indigo,
the small leafed kind. They get some silk from Palembang, and rear a
little themselves. The communication is more frequent with the north-west
shore than with the eastern, and of late, since the English have been
settled at Pulo Chinco, they prefer going there for opium to the more
tedious (though less distant) journey by which they formerly sought it at
Moco-moco.
GOLD.
In their cockpits the gold-scales are frequent, and I have seen
considerable quantities weighed out by the losers. This metal, I am
informed, they get in their own country, although they studiously evaded
all inquiries on the subject.
GUNPOWDER.
They make gunpowder, and it is a common sport among the young boys to
fire it out of bamboos. In order to increase its strength, in their
opinion, they mingle it with pepper-dust.
LEPERS.
In a small recess on the margin of the lake, overhung with very rugged
cliffs and accessible only by water, I saw one of those receptacles of
misery to which the leprous and others afflicted with diseases supposed
to be contagious are banished. I landed much against the remonstrances of
my conductors, who would not quit the boat. There were in all seven of
these unfortunate people basking on the beach and warming the wretched
remains of their bodies in the sun. They were fed at stated periods by
the joint contribution of the neighbouring villages, and I was given to
understand that any attempt to quit this horrid exile was punished with
death.
PECULIAR PLANTS.
I had little time for botanizing; but I found there many plants unknown
to the lowlands. Among them were a species of prune, the water-hemlock,
and the strawberry. This last was like that species which grows in our
woods; but it was insipid. I brought the roots with me to Fort
Marlborough, where it lingered a year or two after fruiting and gradually
died.* I found there also a beautiful kind of the Hedychium coronarium,
now ranked among the kaempferias. It was of a pale orange, and had a most
grateful odour. The girls wear it in their hair, and its beautiful head
of lily flowers is used in the silent language of love, to the practice
of which, during your stay here, I suppose you were no stranger, and
which indicates a delicacy of sentiment one would scarcely expect to find
in the character of so rude a people.
(*Footnote. This plant has fruited also in England, but doubts are
entertained of its being really a fragaria, By Dr. Smith it is termed a
potentilla.)
CHARACTER OF PEOPLE.
Although the chiefs received us with hospitality yet the mass of people
considered our intentions as hostile, and seemed jealous of our
intrusion. Of their women however they were not at all jealous, and the
familiarity of these was unrestrained. They entertained us with dances
after their fashion, and made some rude attempts at performing a sort of
pantomime. I may now close this detail with observing that the natives of
this mountainous region have stronger animal spirits than those of the
plains, and pass their lives with more variety than the torpid
inhabitants of the coast; that they breathe a spirit of independence, and
being frequently engaged in warfare, village against village, they would
be better prepared to resist any invasion of their liberties.
SUSPICIONS.
They took great offence at a large package carried by six men which
contained our necessaries, insisting that within it we had concealed a
priuk api, for so they call a mortar or howitzer, one of which had been
used with success against a village on the borders of their country
during the rebellion of the son of the sultan of Moco-moco; and even when
satisfied respecting this they manifested so much suspicion that we found
it necessary to be constantly on our guard, and were once nearly provoked
by their petulance and treachery to proceed to violence. When they found
our determination they seemed humble, but were not even then to be
trusted; and when we were on our return a friendly chief sent us
intelligence that an ambuscade had been laid for us in one of the narrow
passes of the mountains. We pursued our journey however without meeting
any obstruction.
...
On the subject of gold I have only to add to Mr. Campbell's information
that, in the enumeration by the natives of places where there are
gold-mines, Karinchi is always included.
EXPEDITION TO INTERIOR COUNTRY.
Opportunities of visiting the interior parts of the island have so seldom
occurred, or are likely to occur, that I do not hesitate to present to
the reader an abstract of the Journal kept by Lieutenant Hastings Dare
(now a captain on the Bengal establishment) whilst commanding an
expedition to the countries of Ipu, Serampei, and Sungei-tenang, which
border to the south-east on that of Korinchi above described; making at
the same time my acknowledgments to that gentleman for his obliging
communication of the original, and my apologies for the brevity to which
my subject renders it necessary to confine the narrative.
ORIGIN OF DISTURBANCES.
Sultan Asing, brother to the present sultan of Moco-moco, in conjunction
with Pa Muncha and Sultan Sidi, two hill-chiefs his relations, residing
at Pakalang-jambu and Jambi, raised a small force with which, in the
latter part of the year 1804, they made a descent on Ipu, one of the
Company's districts, burnt several villages and carried off a number of
the inhabitants. The guard of native Malay troops not being sufficiently
strong to check these depredations, a party was ordered from Fort
Marlborough under the command of Lieutenant Hastings Dare, consisting of
eighty-three sepoy officers and men, with five lascars, twentytwo Bengal
convicts, and eighteen of the Bugis-guard; in the whole one hundred and
twenty-eight.
November 22 1804. Marched from Fort Marlborough, and December 3 arrived
at Ipu. The roads extremely bad from the torrents of rain that fell. 4th.
Mr. Hawthorne, the Resident, informed us that the enemy had fortified
themselves at a place called Tabe-si-kuddi, but, on hearing of the
approach of the detachment, had gone off to the hills in the
Sungeitenang country and fortified themselves at Koto Tuggoh, a village
that had been a receptacle for all the vagabonds from the districts near
the coast. 13th. Having procured coolies and provisions, for which we
have been hitherto detained, quitted Ipu in an east-north-east direction,
and passed through several pepper and rice plantations. At dusun Baru one
of our people caught a fine large fish, called ikan gadis. 14th. Marched
in a south-east direction; crossed several rivulets, and reached again
the banks of Ipu river, which we crossed. It was about four feet deep and
very rapid. Passed the night at dusun Arah. The country rather hilly;
thermometer 88 degrees at noon. 15th. Reached dusun Tanjong, the last
place in the Ipu district where rice or any other provision is to be
found, and these were sent on from Talang Puttei, this place being
deserted by its inhabitants, several of whom the enemy had carried off
with them as slaves. The country very hilly, and roads, in consequence of
the heavy rains, bad and slippery. 16th. Marched in a north and east
direction.
HOT SPRINGS.
After crossing the Ayer Ikan stream twice we arrived at some hot springs,
about three or four miles in the winding course we were obliged to take
from dusun Tanjong, situated in a low swampy spot, about sixty yards in
circumference. This is very hot in every part of it, excepting (which is
very extraordinary) one place on its eastern side, where, although a hot
spring is bubbling up within one yard of it, the water running from it is
as cold as common spring water. In consequence of the excessive heat of
the place and softness of the ground none of us could get close to the
springs; but upon putting the thermometer within three yards of them it
immediately rose to 120 degrees of Fahrenheit. We could not bear our
fingers any time in the water. It tasted copperish and bitter; there was
a strong sulphurous smell at the place, and a green sediment at the
bottom and sides of the spring, with a reddish or copper-coloured scum
floating on the surface. After again crossing the Ikan stream we arrived
at dusun Simpang. The enemy had been here, and had burned nearly half of
the village and carried off the inhabitants. The road from Tanjong to
Simpang was entirely through a succession of pepper-gardens and rice
plantations. We are now among the hills. Country in a higher state of
cultivation than near the coast, but nearly deserted, and must soon
become a waste. Could not get intelligence of the enemy. Built huts on
Ayer Ikan at Napah Kapah. 17th. Marched in a south direction and crossed
Ayer Tubbu, passing a number of durian trees on its bank. Again crossed
the stream several times. Arrived early at Tabe-si-kuddi, a small talang,
where the enemy had built three batteries or entrenchments and left
behind them a quantity of grain, but vegetating and unfit for use.
Previously to our reaching these entrenchments some of the detachment got
wounded in the feet with ranjaus, set very thickly in the ground in every
direction, and which obliged us to be very cautious in our steps until we
arrived at the banks of a small rivulet, called the Nibong, two or three
miles beyond them.
RANJAUS.
Ranjaus are slips of bamboo sharpened at each end, the part that is stuck
in the ground being thicker than the opposite end, which decreases to a
fine thin point, and is hardened by dipping it in oil and applying it to
the smoke of a lamp near the flame. They are planted in the footpaths,
sometimes erect, sometimes sloping, in small holes, or in muddy and miry
places, and when trodden upon (for they are so well concealed as not to
be easily seen) they pierce through the foot and make a most disagreeable
wound, the bamboo leaving in it a rough hairy stuff it has on its
outside, which irritates, inflames, and prevents it from healing. The
whole of the road this day lay over a succession of steep hills, and in
the latter part covered with deep forests. The whole of the detachment
did not reach our huts on the bank of the Nibong stream till evening,
much time being consumed in bringing on the mortar and magazine. Picked
up pouches, musket stocks, etc., and saw new huts, near one of which was
a quantity of clotted blood and a fresh grave. 18th. Proceeded
east-north-east and passed several rivulets. Regained the banks of the
Ipu river, running north-east to south-west here tolerably broad and
shallow, being a succession of rapids over a rough stony bed. Encamped
both this night and the last where the enemy had built huts. 19th.
Marched in a north direction. More of the detachment wounded by ranjaus
planted in the pathways. Roads slippery and bad from rains, and the hills
so steep it is with difficulty we get the mortar and heavy baggage
forward. Killed a green snake with black spots along its back, about four
feet long, four to five inches in girt, and with a thick stumpy tail. The
natives say its bite is venomous. Our course today has been north along
the banks of the Ipu river; the noise of the rapids so great that when
near it we can with difficulty hear each other speak. 20th. Continued
along the river, crossing it several times. Came to a hot spring in the
water of which the thermometer rose to 100 degrees at a considerable
distance from its source. The road today tolerably level and good.
LEECHES.
We were much plagued by a small kind of leech, which dropped on us from
the leaves of the trees, and got withinside our clothes. We were in
consequence on our halting every day obliged to strip and bathe ourselves
in order to detach them from our bodies, filled with the blood they had
sucked from us. They were not above an inch in length, and before they
fixed themselves as thin as a needle, so that they could penetrate our
dress in any part. We encamped this evening at the conflux of the Simpang
stream and Ipu river. Our huts were generally thatched with the puar or
wild cardamum leaf, which grows in great abundance on the banks of the
rivers in this part of the country. It bears a pleasant acid fruit,
growing much in the same way as the maize. In long journeys through the
woods, when other provisions fail, the natives live principally on this.
The leaf is something like that of the plantain, but not nearly so large.
21st. Arrived at a spot called Dingau-benar, from whence we were obliged
to return on account of the coolies not being able to descend a hill
which was at least a hundred and fifty yards high, and nearly
perpendicular. In effecting it we were obliged to cling to the trees and
roots, without which assistance it would have been impracticable. It was
nearly evening before one half of the detachment had reached the bottom,
and it rained so excessively hard that we were obliged to remain divided
for the night; the rear party on the top of the steep hill, and the
advanced on the brow of another hill. One of the guides and a Malay
coolie were drowned in attempting to find a ford across the Ipu river. I
was a long time before we could get any fire, everything being completely
soaked through, and the greater part of the poor fellows had not time to
build huts for themselves. Military disposition for guarding baggage,
preventing surprise, etc. 22nd. We had much difficulty in getting the
mortar and its bed down, being obliged to make use of long thick rattans
tied to them and successively to several trees. It was really admirable
to observe the patience of the sepoys and Bengal convicts on this
occasion. On mustering the coolies, found that nearly one half had run
during the night, which obliged us to fling away twenty bags of rice,
besides salt and other articles. Our course lay north, crossing the river
several times. My poor faithful dog Gruff was carried away by the
violence of the stream and lost. We were obliged to make bridges by
cutting down tall trees, laying them across the stream, and interlacing
them with rattans.
We were now between two ranges of very high hills; on our right hand
Bukit Pandang, seen from a great distance at sea; the road shockingly
bad. Encamped on the western bank. 23rd. Marched in a north direction,
the roads almost impassable. The river suddenly swelled so much that the
rear party could not join the advanced, which was so fortunate as to
occupy huts built by the enemy. There were fires in two of them. We were
informed however that the Serampei and Sungei-tenang people often come
this distance to catch fish, which they dry and carry back to their
country. At certain times of the year great quantities of the ringkis and
ikan-gadis are taken, besides a kind of large conger-eel. We frequently
had fish when time would admit of the people catching them. It is
impossible to describe the difficulties we had to encounter in
consequence of the heavy rains, badness of the roads, and rapidity of the
river. The sepoy officer and many men ill of fluxes and fevers, and lame
with swelled and sore feet. 24th. Military precautions. Powder damaged.
Thunder and lightning with torrents of rain. Almost the whole of the rice
rotten or sour. 25th. Continued to march up the banks of the river. No
inhabitants in this part of the country.
IRREGULARITY OF COMPASS.
The compass for these several days has been very irregular. We have two
with us and they do not at all agree. The road less bad. At one place we
saw bamboos of the thickness of a man's thigh. There were myriads of very
small flies this evening, which teased us much. Occupied some huts we
found on the eastern bank. This is Christmas evening; to us, God knows, a
dull one. Our wines and liquors nearly expended, and we have but one
miserable half-starved chicken left although we have been on short
allowance the whole way. 26th. Roads tolerable. Passed a spot called
Kappah, and soon after a waterfall named Ipu-machang, about sixty feet
high. Picked up a sick man belonging to the enemy. He informed us that
there were between two and three hundred men collected at Koto Tuggoh,
under the command of Sutan Sidi, Sutan Asing, and Pa Muncha. These three
chiefs made a festival, killing buffaloes, as is usual with the natives
of Sumatra on such occasions, at this place, and received every
assistance from the principal Dupati, who is also father-in-law to Pa
Muncha. They possess sixty stand of muskets, beside blunderbusses and
wall-pieces. They had quitted the Company's districts about twenty-three
days ago, and are gone, some to Koto Tuggoh, and others to
Pakalang-jambu. 27th. Marched in a north-north-east direction; passed
over a steep hill which took us three hours hard walking. The river is
now very narrow and rapid, not above twelve feet across; it is a
succession of waterfalls every three or four yards. After this our road
was intricate, winding, and bad. We had to ascend a high chasm formed in
the rock, which was effected by ladders from one shelf to another.
Arrived at the foot of Bukit Pandang, where we found huts, and occupied
them for the night. We have been ascending the whole of this day. Very
cold and rainy. At night we were glad to make large fires and use our
blankets and woollen clothes. Having now but little rice left we were
obliged to put ourselves to an allowance of one bamboo or gallon measure
among ten men; and the greater part of that rotten.
ASCEND A HIGH MOUNTAIN.
28th. Ascended Bukit Pandang in an east-north-east direction. Reached a
small spring of water called Pondo Kubang, the only one to be met with
till the hill is descended. About two miles from the top, and from thence
all the way up, the trees and ground were covered very thick with moss;
the trees much stunted, and altogether the appearance was barren and
gloomy; to us particularly so, for we could find little or nothing
wherewith to build our huts, nor procure a bit of dry wood to light a
fire. In order to make one for dressing the victuals, Lieutenant Dare was
compelled to break up one of his boxes, otherwise he and Mr. Alexander,
the surgeon, must have eaten them raw. It rained hard all night, and the
coolies and most of the party were obliged to lie
down on the wet ground in the midst of it.
MEN DIE FROM SEVERITY OF THE WEATHER.
It was exceedingly cold to our feelings; in the evening the thermometer
was down to 50 degrees, and in the night to 45 degrees. In consequence of
the cold, inclemency, and fatigue to which the coolies were exposed,
seven of them died that night. The lieutenant and surgeon made themselves
a kind of shelter with four tarpaulins that were fortunately provided to
cover the medicine chest and surgical instruments, but the place was so
small that it scarcely held them both. In the evening when the former was
sitting on his campstool, whilst the people were putting up the
tarpaulins, a very small bird, perfectly black, came hopping about the
stool, picking up the worms from the moss. It was so tame and fearless
that it frequently perched itself on his foot and on different parts of
the stool; which shows that these parts of the country must be very
little frequented by human beings. 29th. Descended Bukit Pandang. Another
coolie died this morning. We are obliged to fling away shells. After
walking some time many of the people recovered, as it was principally
from cold and damps they suffered. Crossed a stream called Inum where we
saw several huts. In half an hour more arrived at the banks of the
greater Ayer Dikit River, which is here shallow, rapid, and about eighty
yards broad. We marched westerly along its banks, and reached a hut
opposite to a spot called Rantau Kramas, where we remained for the night,
being prevented from crossing by a flood. 30th. Cut down a large tree and
threw it across the river; it reached about halfway over. With this and
the assistance of rattans tied to the opposite side we effected our
passage and arrived at Rantau Kramas. Sent off people to Ranna Alli, one
of the Serampei villages, about a day's march from hence, for provisions.
Thermometer 59 degrees.
The greater Ayer Dikit river, on the north side of which this place lies,
runs nearly from east to west. There are four or five bamboo huts at it,
for the temporary habitation of travellers passing and repassing this
way, being in the direction from the Serampei to the Sungei-tenang
country. These huts are covered with bamboos (in plenty here) split and
placed like pantiles transversely over each other, forming, when the
bamboos are well-grown, a capital and lasting roof (see above). 31st. A
Malay man and woman taken by our people report that the enemy thirteen
days ago had proceeded two days march beyond Koto Tuggoh. Received some
provisions from Ranna Alli. The enemy, we are informed, have dug holes
and put long stakes into them, set spring-spears, and planted the road
very thickly with ranjaus, and were collecting their force at Koto Tuggoh
(signifying the strong fortress) to receive us. 1805. January 1st and
2nd. Received some small supplies of provisions.
COME UP WITH THE ENEMY.
On the 3rd we were saluted by shouting and firing of the enemy from the
heights around us. Parties were immediately sent off in different
directions as the nature of the ground allowed.
ATTACK.
The advanced party had only time to fire two rounds when the enemy
retired to a strong position on the top of a steep hill where they had
thrown up a breastwork, which they disputed for a short time. On our
getting possession of it they divided into three parties and fled. We had
one sepoy killed and several of the detachment wounded by the ranjaus.
Many of the enemy were killed and wounded and the paths they had taken
covered with blood; but it is impossible to tell their numbers as they
always carry them off the moment they drop, considering it a disgrace to
leave them on the field of battle. If they get any of the bodies of their
enemies they immediately strike off the head and fix it on a long pole,
carrying it to their village as a trophy, and addressing to it every sort
of abusive language. Those taken alive in battle are made slaves. After
completely destroying everything in the battery we marched, and arrived
at the top of a very high hill, where we built our huts for the evening.
The road was thickly planted with ranjaus which, with the heavy rains,
impeded our progress and prevented us from reaching a place called
Danau-pau. Our course today has been north-east and easterly, the roads
shockingly bad, and we were obliged to leave behind several coolies and
two sepoys who were unable to accompany us. 4th. Obliged to fling away
the bullets of the cartridges, three-fourths of which were damaged, and
other articles. Most of the detachment sick with fluxes and fevers, or
wounded in the feet. Marched in an eastern direction. Reached a spot very
difficult to pass, being knee-deep in mud for a considerable way, with
ranjaus concealed in the mud, and spring-spears set in many places. We
were obliged to creep through a thicket of canes and bamboos. About noon
the advanced party arrived at a lake and discovered that the enemy were
on the opposite side of a small stream that ran from the lake, where they
had entrenched themselves behind four small batteries in a most
advantageous position, being on the top of a steep hill, of difficult
access, with the stream on one side, the lake on the other, and the other
parts surrounded by a swamp.
ENTRENCHMENTS ATTACKED AND CARRIED.
We immediately commenced the attack, but were unable, from the number of
ranjaus in the only accessible part, to make a push on to the enemy.
However about one o'clock we effected our purpose, and completely got
possession of the entrenchments, which, had they been properly defended,
must have cost us more than the half of our detachment. We had four
sepoys severely wounded, and almost the whole of our feet dreadfully cut.
Numbers of the enemy were killed and wounded. They defended each of the
batteries with some obstinacy against our fire, but when once we came
near them they could not stand our arms, and ran in every direction. At
this place there are no houses nor inhabitants, but only temporary huts,
built by the Sungei-tenang people, who come here occasionally to fish.
The lake, which is named Danau-pau, has a most beautiful appearance,
being like a great amphitheatre, surrounded by high and steep mountains
covered with forests. It is about two miles in diameter. We occupied some
huts built by the enemy. The place is thickly surrounded with bamboos.
MOTIVES FOR RETURNING TO THE COAST.
In consequence of the number of our sick and wounded, the small strength
of coolies to carry their baggage, and the want of medicines and
ammunition, as well as of provisions, we thought it advisable to return
to Rantau Kramas; and to effect this we were obliged to fling away the
mortar-bed, shells, and a number of other things. We marched at noon, and
arrived in the evening at the top of the hill where we had before
encamped, and remained for the night. 6th. Reached Rantau Kramas. 7th.
Marching in torrents of rain. People exceedingly harassed, reduced, and
emaciated. Relieved by the arrival of Serampei people with some
provisions from Ranna Alli. 8th. After a most fatiguing march arrived at
that place half-dead with damps and cold. The bearers of the litters for
the sick were absolutely knocked up, and we were obliged to the sepoys
for getting on as we did. Our route was north-west with little variation.
9th. Remained at Ranna Alli. This serampei village consists of about
fifteen houses, and may contain a hundred and fifty or two hundred
inhabitants. It is thickly planted all round with a tall hedge of live
bamboos, on the outside of which ranjaus are planted to the distance of
thirty or forty feet. Withinside of the hedge there is a bamboo pagar or
paling. It is situated on a steep hill surrounded by others, which in
many places are cleared to their tops, where the inhabitants have their
ladangs or rice plantations. They appeared to be a quiet, inoffensive set
of people; their language different from the Malayan, which most of them
spoke, but very imperfectly and hardly to be understood by us. On our
approach the women and children ran to their ladangs, being, as their
husbands informed us, afraid of the sepoys.
GOITRES.
Of the women whom we saw almost every one had the goitres or swellings
under the throat; and it seemed to be more prevalent with these than with
the men. One woman in particular had two protuberances dangling at her
neck as big as quart bottles.
There are three dupatis and four mantris to this village, to whom we made
presents, and afterwards to the wives and families of the inhabitants.
10th and 11th. Preparing for our march to Moco-moco, where we can recruit
our force, and procure supplies of stores and ammunition. 12th. Marched
in a north and north-west direction.
HANGING BRIDGE.
Passed over a bridge of curious construction across the Ayer Abu River.
It was formed of bamboos tied together with iju ropes and suspended to
the trees, whose branches stretched nearly over the stream.
The Serampei women are the worst-favoured creatures we ever saw, and
uncouth in their manners. Arrived at Tanjong Kasiri, another fortified
village, more populous than Ranna Alli. 13th. The sick and heavy baggage
were ordered to Tanjong Agung, another Serampei village.
HOT SPRINGS.
14th. Arrived at Ayer Grau or Abu, a small river, within a yard or two of
which we saw columns of smoke issuing from the earth, where there were
hot springs of water bubbling up in a number of places. The stream was
quite warm for several yards, and the ground and stones were so hot that
there was no standing on them for any length of time. The large pieces of
quartz, pumice, and other stones apparently burnt, induce us to suppose
there must have formerly been a volcano at this spot, which is a deep
vale, surrounded by high hills. Arrived much fatigued at Tanjong Agung,
where the head dupati received us in his best style.
COCONUTS.
He seemed to know more of European customs and manners than those whom we
have hitherto met with, and here, for the first time since quitting the
Ipu district, we got coconuts, which he presented to us.
CASSIA.
We saw numbers of cassia-trees in our march today. The bark, which the
natives brought us in quantities, is sweet, but thick and coarse, and
much inferior to cinnamon. This is the last and best fortified village in
the Serampei country, bordering on the forests between that and
Anak-Sungei.
PECULIAR REGULATION.
They have a custom here of never allowing any animal to be killed in any
part of the village but the balei or town hall, unless the person wishing
to do otherwise consents to pay a fine of one fathom of cotton cloth to
the priest for his permission. The old dupati told us there had been
formerly a great deal of sickness and bloodshed in the village, and it
had been predicted that, unless this custom were complied with, the like
would happen again. We paid the fine, had the prayers of the priest, and
killed our goats where and as we pleased. 16th. Marched in a
south-westerly direction, and, after passing many steep hills, reached
the lesser Ayer Dikit River, which we crossed, and built our huts on its
western bank. 17th. Marched in a west, and afterwards a south, direction;
the roads, in consequence of the rain ceasing today, tolerably dry and
good, but over high hills. Arrived at Ayer Prikan, and encamped on its
western bank; its course north and south over a rough, stony bed; very
rapid, and about thirty yards across, at the foot of Bukit Lintang. Saw
today abundance of cassiatrees. 18th. Proceeded to ascend Bukit Lintang,
which in the first part was excessively steep and fatiguing; our route
north and north-west when descending, south-south-west. Arrived at one of
the sources of the Sungei-ipu. Descending still farther we reached a
small spring where we built our huts. 19th. On our march this day we were
gratified by the receipt of letters from our friends at Bencoolen, by the
way of Moco-moco, from whence the Resident, Mr. Russell, sent us a supply
of wine and other refreshments, which we had not tasted for fourteen
days. Our course lay along the banks of the Sungei-ipu, and we arrived at
huts prepared for us by Mr. Russell. 20th. At one time our guide lost the
proper path by mistaking for it the track of a rhinoceros (which are in
great numbers in these parts), and we got into a place where we were
teased with myriads of leeches. Our road, excepting two or three small
hills, was level and good. Reached the confluence of the Ipu and Si
Luggan Rivers, the latter of which rises in the Korinchi country. Passed
Gunong Payong, the last hill, as we approached Moco-moco, near to which
had been a village formerly burnt and the inhabitants made slaves by Pa
Muncha and the then tuanku mudo (son of the sultan). 21st. Arrived at
talang Rantau Riang, the first Moco-moco or Anak-Sungei village, where we
found provisions dressed for us. At dusun Si Ballowe, to which our road
lay south-easterly, through pepper and rice plantations, sampans were in
readiness to convey us down the river. This place is remarkable for an
arau tree (casuarina), the only one met with at such a distance from the
sea. The country is here level in comparison with what we have passed
through, and the soil rather sandy, with a mixture of red clay. 22nd. The
course of the river is south-west and west with many windings. Arrived at
Moco-moco.
DESCRIPTION OF MOCO-MOCO.
Fort Ann lies on the southern and the settlement on the northern side of
the Si Luggan River, which name belongs properly to the place also, and
that of Moco-moco to a small village higher up. The bazaar consists of
about one hundred houses, all full of children. At the northern end is
the sultan's, which has nothing particular to distinguish it, but only
its being larger than other Malay houses. Great quantities of fish are
procured at this place, and sold cheap. The trade is principally with the
hill-people, in salt, piece-goods, iron, steel, and opium; for which the
returns are provisions, timber, and a little gold-dust. Formerly there
was a trade carried on with the Padang and other ate angin people, but it
is now dropped. The soil is sandy, low, and flat.
EXPEDITION RESUMED.
It being still necessary to make an example of the Sungei-tenang people
for assisting the three hostile chiefs in their depredations, in order
thereby to deter others from doing the same in future, and the men being
now recovered from their fatigue and furnished with the requisite
supplies, the detachment began to march on the 9th of February for Ayer
Dikit. It now consists of Lieutenant Dare, Mr. Alexander, surgeon,
seventy sepoys, including officers, twenty-seven lascars and Bengal
convicts, and eleven of the bugis-guard. Left the old mortar and took
with us one of smaller calibre.
ACCOUNT OF SERAMPEI COUNTRY AND PEOPLE.
From the 10th to the 22nd occupied in our march to the Serampei village
of Ranna Alli. The people of this country acknowledge themselves the
subjects of the sultan of Jambi, who sometimes but rarely exacts a
tribute from them of a buffalo, a tail of gold, and a hundred bamboos of
rice from each village. They are accustomed to carry burdens of from
sixty to ninety pounds weight on journeys that take them twenty or thirty
days; and it astonishes a lowlander to see with what ease they walk over
these hills, generally going a shuffling or ambling pace. Their loads are
placed in a long triangular basket, supported by a fillet across the
forehead, resting upon the back and back part of the head, the broadest
end of the triangle being uppermost, considerably above the head, and the
small end coming down as low as the loins. The Serampei country,
comprehending fifteen fortified and independent dusuns, beside talangs or
small open villages, is bounded on the north and north-west by Korinchi,
on the east, south-east, and south by Pakalang-jambu and Sungei-tenang,
and on the west and south-west by the greater Ayer Dikit River and chain
of high mountains bordering on the Sungei-ipu country. 23rd. Reached
Rantau Kramas. Took possession of the batteries, which the enemy had
considerably improved in our absence, collecting large quantities of
stones; but they were not manned, probably from not expecting our return
so soon. 24th. Arrived at those of Danau-pau, which had also been
strengthened. The roads being dry and weather fine we are enabled to make
tolerably long marches. Our advanced party nearly caught one of the enemy
planting ranjaus, and in retreating he wounded himself with them. 25th.
Passed many small rivulets discharging themselves into the lake at this
place.
COME UP WITH THE ENEMY.
26th. The officer commanding the advanced party sent word that the enemy
were at a short distance ahead; that they had felled a number of trees to
obstruct the road, and had thrown an entrenchment across it, extending
from one swamp and precipice to another, where they waited to receive us.
When the whole of the detachment had come up we marched on to the attack,
scrambled over the trees, and with great difficulty got the mortar over.
FIRST ATTACK FAILS.
The first onset was not attended with success, and our men were dropping
fast, not being able to advance on account of the ranjaus, which almost
pinned their feet to the ground. Seeing that the entrenchments were not
to be carried in front, a subedar with thirty sepoys and the bugis-guard
were ordered to endeavour to pass the swamp on the right, find out a
pathway, and attack the enemy on the flank and rear, while the remainder
should, on a preconcerted signal, make an attack on the front at the same
time. To prevent the enemy from discovering our intentions the drums were
kept beating, and a few random shots fired. Upon the signal being given a
general attack commenced, and our success was complete.
ENTRENCHMENTS CARRIED.
The enemy, of whom there were, as we reckon, three or four hundred within
the entrenchments, were soon put to the rout, and, after losing great
numbers, among whom was the head dupati, a principal instigator of the
disturbances, fled in all directions. We lost two sepoys killed and seven
wounded, beside several much hurt by the ranjaus. The mortar played
during the time, but is not supposed to have done much execution on
account of the surrounding trees.
THEIR CONSTRUCTION.
The entrenchments were constructed of large trees laid horizontally
between stakes driven into the ground, about seven feet high, with
loopholes for firing. Being laid about six feet thick, a cannonball could
not have penetrated. They extended eighty or ninety yards. The headman's
quarters were a large tree hollowed at the root.
As soon as litters could be made for the wounded, and the killed were
buried, we continued our march in an eastern direction, and in about an
hour arrived at another battery, which however was not defended. In front
of this the enemy had tied a number of long sharp stakes to a stone,
which was suspended to the bough of a tree, and by swinging it their plan
was to wound us.
ARRIVE AT A STREAM RUNNING INTO THE JAMBI RIVER.
Crossed the Tambesi rivulet, flowing from south to north, and one of the
contributary streams to the Jambi River, which discharges itself into the
sea on the eastern side of the Island. Built our huts near a field of
maize and padi.
KOTO TUGGOH.
27th. Marched to Koto Tuggoh, from whence the inhabitants fled on our
throwing one shell and firing a few muskets, and we took possession of
the place. It is situated on a high hill, nearly perpendicular on three
sides, the easiest entrance being on the west, but it is there defended
by a ditch seven fathoms deep and five wide. The place contains the
ballei and about twenty houses, built in general of plank very neatly put
together, and carved; and some of them were also roofed with planks or
shingles about two feet long and one broad. The others with the leaves of
the puar or cardamum, which are again very thinly covered with iju. This
is said to last long, but harbours vermin, as we experienced. When we
entered the village we met with only one person, who was deformed, dumb,
and had more the appearance of a monkey than a human creature.
DESTROYED. ENTER KOTO BHARU.
March 1st. After completely destroying Koto Tuggoh we marched in a north
and afterwards an east direction, and arrived at Koto Bharu. The head
dupati requesting a parley, it was granted, and, on our promising not to
injure his village, he allowed us to take possession of it. We found in
the place a number of Batang Asei and other people, armed with muskets,
blunderbusses, and spears. At our desire, he sent off people to the other
Sungei-tenang villages to summon their chiefs to meet us if they chose to
show themselves friends, or otherwise we should proceed against them as
we had done against Koto Tuggoh.
PEACE CONCLUDED.
This dupati was a respectable-looking old man, and tears trickled down
his cheeks when matters were amicably settled between us: indeed for some
time he could hardly be convinced of it, and repeatedly asked, "Are we
friends?" 2nd. The chiefs met as desired, and after a short conversation
agreed to all that we proposed. Papers were thereupon drawn up and signed
and sworn to under the British colours. After this a shell was thrown
into the air at the request of the chiefs, who were desirous of
witnessing the sight.
MODE OF TAKING AN OATH.
Their method of swearing was as follows: The young shoots of the
anau-tree were made into a kind of rope, with the leaves hanging, and
this was attached to four stakes stuck in the ground, forming an area of
five or six feet square, within which a mat was spread, where those about
to take the oath seated themselves. A small branch of the prickly bamboo
was planted in the area also, and benzoin was kept burning during the
ceremony. The chiefs then laid their hands on the koran, held to them by
a priest, and one of them repeated to the rest the substance of the oath,
who, at the pauses he made, gave a nod of assent; after which they
severally said, "may the earth become barren, the air and water
poisonous, and may dreadful calamities fall on us and our posterity, if
we do not fulfil what we now agree to and promise."
ACCOUNT OF SUNGEI-TENANG COUNTRY.
We met here with little or no fruit excepting plantains and pineapples,
and these of an indifferent sort. The general produce of the country was
maize, padi, potatoes, sweet-potatoes, tobacco, and sugar-cane. The
principal part of their clothing was procured from the eastern side of
the island. They appear to have no regular season for sowing the grain,
and we saw plantations where in one part they had taken in the crop, in
another part it was nearly ripe, in a third not above five inches high,
and in a fourth they had but just prepared the ground for sowing. Upon
the whole, there appeared more cultivation than near the coast.
MANNERS OF PEOPLE.
It is a practice with many individuals among these people (as with
mountaineers in some parts of Europe) to leave their country in order to
seek employment where they can find it, and at the end of three or four
years revisit their native soil, bringing with them the produce of their
labours. If they happen to be successful they become itinerant merchants,
and travel to almost all parts of the island, particularly where fairs
are held, or else purchase a matchlock gun and become soldiers of
fortune, hiring themselves to whoever will pay them, but always ready to
come forward in defence of their country and families. They are a thick
stout dark race of people, something resembling the Achinese; and in
general they are addicted to smoking opium. We had no opportunity of
seeing the Sungei-tenang women. The men are very fantastical in their
dress. Their bajus have the sleeves blue perhaps whilst the body is
white, with stripes of red or any other colour over the shoulders, and
their short breeches are generally one half blue and the other white,
just as fancy leads them. Others again are dressed entirely in blue
cotton cloth, the same as the inhabitants of the west coast. The bag
containing their sirih or betel hangs over the shoulder by a string, if
it may be so termed, of brass wire. Many of them have also twisted brass
wire round the waist, in which they stick their krises.
CHARMS.
They commonly carry charms about their persons to preserve them from
accidents; one of which was shown to us, printed (at Batavia or Samarang
in Java) in Dutch, Portuguese, and French. It purported that the writer
was acquainted with the occult sciences, and that whoever possessed one
of the papers impressed with his mark (which was the figure of a hand
with the thumb and fingers extended) was invulnerable and free from all
kinds of harm. It desired the people to be very cautious of taking any
such printed in London (where certainly none were ever printed), as the
English would endeavour to counterfeit them and to impose on the
purchasers,
being all cheats. (Whether we consider this as a political or a
mercantile speculation it is not a little extraordinary and ridiculous).
The houses here, as well as in the Serampei country, are all built on
posts of what they call paku gajah (elephant-fern, Chamaerops palma,
Lour.), a tree something resembling a fern, and when full-grown a
palm-tree. It is of a fibrous nature, black, and lasts for a great length
of time. Every dusun has a ballei or town hall, about a hundred and
twenty feet long and proportionably broad, the woodwork of which is
neatly carved. The dwelling-houses contain five, six, or seven families
each, and the country is populous. The inhabitants both of Sungei-tenang
and Serampei are Mahometans, and acknowledge themselves subjects of
Jambi. The former country, so well as we were able to ascertain, is
bounded on the north and north-west by Korinchi and Serampei, on the west
and south-west by the Anak-sungei or Moco-moco and Ipu districts, on the
south by Labun, and on the east by Batang Asei and Pakalang-jambu. 3rd.
Marched on our return to the coast, many of the principal people
attending us as far as the last of their plantations. It rained hard
almost the whole of this day.
RETURN TO THE COAST.
On the 14th arrived at Moco-moco; on the 22nd proceeded for Bencoolen,
and arrived there on the 30th March 1805, after one of the most fatiguing
and harassing expeditions any detachment of troops ever served upon;
attended with the sickness of the whole of the party, and the death of
many, particularly of Mr. Alexander, the surgeon.
End of Lieutenant Dare's narrative.
It is almost unnecessary to observe that these were the consequences of
the extreme impolicy of sending an expedition up the country in the heart
of the rainy season. The public orders issued on the occasion were highly
creditable to Lieutenant Dare.