_LAPPETS AND SWIVELS_
_Lappet and Swivel Weaving._--The only classes of figured weaving of
any importance not already mentioned are lappet and swivel work, both
of which are very limited, but produce good effects. With lappets,
figures can be put on light fabrics without requiring any cutting off
of the surplus yarn. It is principally in the muslin trade that they
are used, for figuring Indian fabrics with gay colours. The principal
seat of the manufacture in this country is about Glasgow. The figure
is formed by an extra warp drawn through one or more frames of gauzing
needles set in the lay in front of the reed, which can be moved to
either side as desired. The pattern is cut on a large wooden wheel
or disc, in the face of which a groove is cut to form the pattern,
and a traveller working in this groove, and connected with the needle
frame, slides the needles to either side and stitches the figuring warp
into the cloth, the needles rising and falling as the cloth is being
woven. The figure is rather loose and only suited for simple effects.
A description of the process of working can be found in Murphy’s or
Gilroy’s works on weaving, and is interesting, though rather out of
date. Swivel work is of a much better class, though not so suitable for
getting small figures, as spots short distances apart. But it gives a
much better bound figure--in fact, it may be bound in any way--and is
very suitable when a few are required on the fabric, such as crests, or
any figures in the corners or centres of handkerchiefs, napkins, etc.
These are weft figures and usually of a different colour to the ground
of the fabric, which may be either plain or figured. These figures
could be formed with an ordinary box loom, cutting off the loose weft
or binding it up to the ground cloth; but the latter is useless for
light fabrics, and the former leaves the figure unbound round the
edges. If the figure is large enough it can be made in an ordinary
check or pick-and-pick loom, and bound as with swivels. The swivels are
small shuttles similar to those used for weaving silk book-markers and
such like fabrics, and are usually attached to the hand rail of the
lay of the loom. The swivel attachment is fixed so that when a shed is
opened the shuttle falls to pass through it, or a second high shed may
be opened for the swivel shuttle. The shuttle is driven by means of a
rack and pinion, the former being in the shuttle, and the pinions fixed
to revolve in the frame. When the pinions are revolved the shuttle is
drawn across. The breadth of the figures must be considerably less than
the length of the shuttle, so that for large-sized figures this method
of working is not suited.
CONCLUSION
Since the foregoing was written up to the present time (Sept. 1894)
nothing new worth describing has made its appearance. A few card lacing
machines have been brought out and several patents have appeared in
print, but most of these disappear shortly after.
No mention has been made in this work of Count Sparres’ patent
card-cutting machine, which was to have done away with the necessity
of putting patterns on point paper by cutting the cards direct from
the sketch embossed on a metallic plate. This was a highly ingenious
machine, and under suitable conditions produced very fair work, but so
far it has proved rather expensive to the company that took it up.
Another process to obtain similar results, patented by Messrs. Dawson
and Adams of Macclesfield, was described in the ‘Textile Manufacturer’
in 1893. In this process a perforated plate is filled with small
pins; a piece of strong paper is laid over this, and over the paper
another plate. The pattern is formed by pushing the pins through the
paper between the plates. A large portion of this work can be done
by mechanical means. When all the pins required for the pattern are
pressed through the paper, the top plate with the sheet of paper is
turned upside down, the pins sticking in the paper. By running a
roller over the paper the pins can be pressed out of it and into the
plate. This plate is then put into a reading and punching machine,
and by suitable mechanism the pins can be brought to act on either a
card-punching apparatus or on the harness of a pattern loom; so the
manufacturer can have a sample of the cloth woven without any cards and
can have the cards cut for the factory loom afterwards if he requires
them. The cards can be punched at the rate of 2000 per hour.
By means of a pattern cut out of a plate of wax, and a reading in
machine, the filling of the pins into the plate, or the hand reading as
it is called, can be dispensed with.
It has since been stated that this firm are now trying to perfect a
process which was tried thirty years ago, viz. to paint the pattern
with electric paint which is to act on needles charged with electricity.
These are all highly ingenious inventions, and are interesting to those
who do not lose too much by them; but it will require a nice machine to
produce all the variations in a pattern that an experienced designer
can, though in many patterns this could be dispensed with, and suitable
mechanical means may yet be devised to take a share of the work.
INDEX
Axminster carpets, 266, 288
Barrel or cylinder loom, 17
Beeting a harness, 89
Bessrook machine, 185
Border design, 97, 100, 115, 134
-- mountings, 105
Bouchon’s loom, 18
Brussels carpets, 27
Cards, 51, 147
Card cutting, 139
-- -- machines, 143
-- -- -- (Count Sparres’), 299
-- -- -- (French), 167
-- frames, 47, 156
-- lacing, 139
-- -- machines, 148
-- repeating machines, 149
Carpets, 264
-- chenille, 290
-- Axminster, 266, 288
-- Brussels, 276
-- Indian, 265
-- Ingrain, 269
-- Kidderminster, 266
-- patent Axminster, 289
-- Persian, 265
-- royal Axminster, 288
-- Scotch, 266
-- tapestry, 285
-- Turkish, 265
-- Wilton, 284
Centred tie, 97
Chenille, 290
Comb draw loom, 16
Comber boards, 82, 103
Cross-border jacquard, 155
Cross’s counterpoise harness, 14
Cumber boards, 82, 103
Curtains and tapestries, 248
Cylinder motions (horizontal), 44
-- (self-acting), 36
-- (slide), 43, 57, 61
-- (swing), 33, 56, 58
-- to set a, 40, 43
Designing and draughting, 110
-- hints on, 120
Design paper, 112
-- to prepare a, 115
Designs, 94, 97, 100
-- for dress goods, 122
-- for gathered borders, 97
-- for single borders, 100
-- (repeating), 94, 122
-- (texture), 124
Double cloth, 233
-- -- jacquard, 241
-- warp faced cloth, 237
-- weft faced cloth, 235
Draughting a pattern, 115
Draw loom, 3
-- -- French, 24
Drawing in a warp, 99
Falcon’s loom, 19
French card, 51
-- -- cutting machine, 167
-- draw loom, 24
-- jacquard, 49
Full harness, 69
-- -- mountings, 69
Gathered tie, 97
Gauze, 196
-- to design a pattern, 215
-- harness (hand-loom), 203
-- -- (power-loom), 205
Gauze, jacquard, 214, 223
-- patterns, 197, 198, 217
-- reed, 225
Griffes, 37, 52
Hair-line patterns, 129
Half-harness, 69, 169
Harness, drawing warp into, 99
-- illustrations of, 96, 98, 102, 191
-- to prepare a, 71
-- to tie up a, 87
-- (double cloth), 233
-- (full), 69
-- (gauze), 203, 205
-- (half), 69, 169
-- (muslin), 169
-- (pressure), 70, 174
-- (quilting), 233
-- reeds, 82
-- (split), 62, 172
-- twine, 75
Hecks, 77
Hole board, 83
Hooks for jacquard, 38, 39, 52, 59
-- in double-acting jacquard, 55, 59
Indian carpets, 265
Ingrain carpets, 269
Introduction, 1
Jacquard’s machine, 23
Jacquard machines, 27
-- (cross-border), 155
-- (double-acting), 52
-- (double cloth), 241
-- (double-acting with two cylinders), 58
-- (French), 49
-- (gauze), 214
-- (Karl Wein), 192
-- (leno), 214
-- (open-shed), 161
-- (quilting), 241
-- (twilling), 185
-- (Verdôl), 163
-- cards, 50
-- cylinder, to set a, 40, 43
-- hooks, 38, 39, 52, 59
-- interior of, 38
-- needles, 38, 39, 52, 59
-- shedding, 60, 62
-- stop motion, 64
-- to set a, 43, 46, 76
Karl Wein jacquard, 192
Kidderminster carpet, 266
Lacing cards, 139
-- machine, 148
-- twine, 147
Lappet weaving, 298
Lashing a pattern, 9
Leno jacquard, 214
Letters, mottoes, &c., 136
Levelling frames, 85
-- the mails, 86
Lingoes, 72, 74
London tie, 96
Marking off a cumber board, 103
Marseilles quilt, 246
Matelasses, 246
Mottoes and letters, 136
Mountings, 69
Muslin harness, 169
Neck of harness, 79
Needles, 38
Norwich tie, 95
Open-shed jacquard, 161
Paints for patterns, 116
Parrot machine, 11
Patent Axminster carpet, 289
Pattern, to draught a, 115
Patterns (carpet), 280, 282-3
-- (gauze), 197, 217
-- (hair-line), 129
-- (spot), 130
-- (texture), 124
Persian carpets, 265
Piano machine, 145
Pile work, 259
Point paper, 112
Poplins, 252
Pressure harness, 174
Quilting, 247
Quilting harness, 233
Reading a pattern, 9
Repeat of a pattern, 94
Repeating machines, 149
Reversing motions, 45
Royal Axminster carpets, 28
Scotch carpets, 266
Set of harness (to vary), 106
Setting a jacquard, 43, 46, 76
Shading floral forms, 118
Shedding of jacquards, 62
Simple (draw loom), 3
Slabstock, 85
Sleepers, 73
Slips (comber board), 83
Split harness, 172
Spot patterns, 131
Spring box, 42
Stop motion, 64
Suggestions on design, 120
Swivel weaving, 298
Tail cords, 54
Tapestry (real), 255
-- carpets, 285
-- curtains, 248
Terry pile, 260
Texture patterns, 124
Tie of a harness, 93
Trap board, 15
Turkey carpets, 265
Turkish towels, 260
Twilling designs, 117, 133
-- jacquards, 185
Twills for damask, 181
Tying up a harness, 87
Varnishing a harness, 92
Varying the set of a harness, 106
Vaucanson’s loom, 22
Verdôl jacquard, 49, 163
Wilton carpets, 284
Wiring cards, 153
Woollens and worsteds, 248
PRINTED BY
SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE
LONDON
Transcriber's notes:
In the text version, italics are represented by _underscores_, and bold
and black letter text by =equals= symbols. Superscripts are represented
by ^{} and subscripts by _{}.
Missing or incorrect punctuation has been repaired. Inconsistent
spelling and hyphenation have been left as printed.
The following mistakes have been noted:
p. 15. boars has been changed to bars. Misaligned typeface has half
duplicated the first letter of each line on this page.
p. 26. Both trapboard and trap board have been used in the text and
have been left as printed.
p. 35. cyiinder has been changed to cylinder.
p. 65. 2 4 6 8 13 12 changed to 2 4 6 8 10 12.
p. 134. coarses has been changed to coarser.
p. 132. fig. 3 has been changed to Fig. 3 as used in all other cases.
p. 141. cyclinder has been changed to cylinder
p. 208. tightly paced should probably read spaced or placed, but has
been left as printed.
End of Project Gutenberg's Jacquard Weaving and Designing, by T. F. Bell