country abounding with vineyards, which produce the esteemed vin de la
Côte. We passed through the little towns of Nyons, Rouge, and Morges,
taking leave of our agreeable companions at the latter, and arriving at
Lausanne between two and three o’clock in the afternoon. Before entering
the town, we were amused with the economical ostentation of our driver,
who threw off a shabby old travelling dress, and put on a fine red coat.
We found the Lion d’Or, to which we had been recommended, quite full;
when recollecting that I had an old college friend, Dr. V⸺, residing at
this place, we bent our steps to his house, with a view of requesting him
to recommend us an hotel; accordingly he had the kindness to send his
servant, to secure apartments at the Hotel D’Angleterre; at the same time
insisting upon our dining with him. After dinner, Dr. V⸺ conducted us to
the Jardin d’Arc, where a society of gentlemen archers assemble in the
evening for their amusement: this is the spot from whence the panoramic
view of Lausanne, lately exhibited in London, was taken.
On the following day we visited the cathedral, and walked over the town;
the former is an ancient building, standing upon very high ground, but
which by its commanding view, I am informed, fully repays the trouble of
ascent.
In the evening we entered the _circle literaire_, an establishment
furnished with a good library, and where the newspapers and many other
periodical publications are taken in. One of the rules of this society
is, that no stranger can be admitted twice.
On Friday the 27th, we set out at an early hour, in a carriage called a
_char_, resembling a sofa placed lengthways on wheels, with a curtained
canopy over head, and an apron below, to protect the traveller from
the weather, to visit my friend R⸺, whom I have before mentioned both
at Toulouse and Montpellier, and who had since taken a wife, and fixed
himself near Vevay.
The road to Vevay throughout lies by the side of the lake, and is so
narrow, being bounded by a wall on each side, that it is impossible
that two carriages could pass each other. The sides of the mountains
that bound the road on the left, and which are so steep as to appear
inaccessible, are richly clothed with vineyards, artfully formed into
terraces, rising in tiers, one above the other. These terraces are formed
by strong and high stone walls, which preserve the soil from shelving
down, and are ascended by flights of steps. The vineyards thus formed,
are exposed to frequent injuries, and often to utter destruction, by the
rapid impulse of the mountain torrents descending from above, and which
occasionally sweep away wall, terrace, and vines, in one indiscriminate
ruin. These natural visitations are, however, borne by the Swiss peasant
with resignation; and notwithstanding he may have lost the whole harvest
of his hopes, he immediately applies himself, to repair the injury,
burying the past in the anticipation of the future.
On arriving at Vevay, we found my friend on the look out for us, and
were immediately conducted to his house two miles beyond the town, and
introduced to his lady. After breakfast he took us to the famous prison
of Chillon, the subject of one of Lord Byron’s eccentric poems, and which
was three miles distant. Here, in the year 1530, the patriot Bonnivard
was doomed, by the duke of Savoy, to a confinement of six years, in one
of its most dismal dungeons.
“Lake Leman lies by Chillon’s walls;
A thousand feet in depth below,
Its massy waters meet and flow;
Thus much the fathom-line was sent
From Chillon’s snow-white battlement,
Which round about the wave enthrals.
A double dungeon, wall and wave
Half made, and like a living grave.
Below the surface of the lake
The dark vault lies⸺”
We entered this celebrated vault, and examined the seven “pillars of
Gothic mould,” but which, at present, retain only four of the seven rings
described by our poet, three pillars being without them; the chains, said
to have been connected with these rings, have entirely disappeared.
After spending a very happy day, we were obliged, but with the greatest
regret, to leave our kind friend at an early hour, as we had to prepare
for our intended departure from Lausanne early on the following morning.
But we were disappointed in our latter views, owing partly to the
weather, and partly to the difficulty of procuring a suitable conveyance;
we secured, however, places in a voiture for the following morning, and
made ourselves perfectly ready for setting out.
In the morning, at an early hour, we were prepared for our journey. We
waited until six o’clock, when a man came to look at our luggage, after
which, a variety of excuses were sent, which terminated in our being
informed, that the voiture would not go that day, but that we might be
sent in a char to Berne, for which town, we had taken our places. For
a time, we insisted on the fulfilment of our agreement, but, beginning
to apprehend we should otherwise be prevented from getting away to-day,
we at length agreed to put up with the char. It was accordingly brought
forward; on placing, however, my friend’s trunk behind it, this was found
too large to be attached, without a risk of injury on both sides. In
consequence, they were obliged eventually to convey us in the voiture; I
am convinced, that in obtaining this point, we were indebted entirely to
their fears of offending Dr. V⸺.
I cannot leave Lausanne without paying the due tribute of gratitude to
this gentleman and his worthy father, for their kind attentions during
our stay at that place.
CHAP. XXVII.
FROM LAUSANNE TO STRASBURG.
After leaving Lausanne, we arrived at Maudon about noon, where we dined
with an English party that came in soon after ourselves. We afterwards
proceeded to Payerne, where we rested for the night. At this place, a
small, but short down-bed was placed loosely over the coverlet, so that
one slept both under a bed, and over a bed; this is not uncommon in
various parts of the continent; but however comfortable the custom may be
in winter, it was by no means agreeable at midsummer.
On the following morning, after leaving Payerne, we passed through the
ancient town of Avenche, and the neat one of Morat, close to a lake of
the same name. We stopped to dine at the village of Gummingen, situated
on the banks of the Sarine, over which, there is a covered wooden
bridge, and which is distant about four leagues from Berne. From hence
we ascended a steep hill, from the top of which, the town and lake of
Neuchatel are visible. At half after six in the evening, we arrived at
Berne, where, finding the principal inn full, we were obliged to put up
with a secondary one; however we were well accommodated.
We employed the following morning in examining this interesting city: we
promenaded the ramparts, and the fine public walk near to the cathedral,
which is greatly admired for its commanding view. This was once the only
public walk which the town possessed, but a new one said to surpass it in
magnificence, has been formed along a high bank on the side of the Aar,
which looks proudly upon the city and country, with the Glaciers in their
vicinity.
Berne is built with much regularity and some magnificence; the houses
are chiefly of white free-stone, and uniform in their height and
appearance; in the principal streets, piazzas are erected on each side,
over foot-paths elevated some height above the carriage road, through
the centre of which, runs a small and rapid stream led off from the Aar,
which gives a refreshing coolness to this part of the town, and, at the
same time, promotes its cleanliness.
The public buildings are particularly fine, especially the cathedral,
churches, and the arsenal.
My friend was much amused with the costume of the Bernoise females, and
in particular the peasantry from the country, who came to supply the
markets; their head-dress was very peculiar, and they wore curious
black cloth petticoats, so short as not to reach the knee, with white
stockings. The ladies and towns-women, however, have adopted the greater
length of petticoat.
On Wednesday, the 1st of August, we set off in a carriage, termed a
berlin, for Basle, distant eighteen leagues, paying as many francs each
for our places, and in company with a French gentleman, and a Bernoise
woman, in the dress of her canton. We arrived at Soleure for dinner,
which is an agreeable little town on the banks of the Aar; the houses are
particularly neat and clean, and at the same time built with considerable
taste. We visited the catholic cathedral, which is a remarkably neat
modern structure.
The country between Soleure and Basle is very hilly, and regarded as
beautiful beyond description. We slept at a village five leagues from
Basle, at which place we arrived about noon on the following day.
We took up our residence at the Three Kings, situated on the banks of the
Rhine, over which majestic river, the windows of our apartment projected.
This town, except in point of situation, is very inferior to Berne.
After dinner, we crossed the river by a wooden bridge to Little Basle,
with a view of inquiring into the possibility of getting down the Rhine
by boat; for we found there were no passage boats, as we had been led to
expect. We were informed that a boat was loading, which would probably
set off in a day or two days’ time; but, upon consideration, were induced
to prefer accompanying the French gentleman with whom we had travelled
from Berne, and who was proceeding by diligence on the following morning.
We remarked a custom peculiar to this place, which, however, has, I
believe, been noticed by several travellers, that of keeping the clock
one hour in advance of the regular time. The following explanation of the
origin of this custom has been given. The magistrates having received
information of a plan to make a sudden attack on the city at one o’clock
on the morning, ordered the town-clock to be put forward an hour. The
enemy, hearing it strike two, considered that their design had been
discovered, and abandoned the attempt. In commemoration of the event, it
has ever since been kept an hour in advance.
We left Basle for Strasburg, at eight o’clock in the morning of the 3rd
of August, and entered France at the little town of St. Louis, where our
baggage underwent the strictest examination which we had yet experienced,
in consequence of the extensive illicit introduction of Swiss
manufactures, and particularly cambrics, into France. A merchant, who
was in our company, informed us, that when once travelling in a carriage
of his own, the officers threatened to break it to pieces, unless he
declared in what part the illicit goods, which they were convinced he had
with him, were concealed, stating that they had information of its having
been constructed for that express purpose; they were only prevented
from putting their threats into execution, by his declaring, that as it
contained nothing contraband, he would certainly compel them to make good
the damage.
We dined at Mulhausen, famous for its fine printed cambrics, silks, and
calicoes, and where we were amused, as well as benefited, by the economy
of one of our French companions, who proposed, as it was an early hour
for dinner, that we should take only a _petit dinér_, and which would be
charged half-price: we assented to his proposal, and certainly had as
good and full a dinner as we could wish, consisting of soup, entré, rôti,
vegetables, a dessert, and _un demi-bottaile du vin_.
We reached Colmar about seven o’clock, where we rested three hours, after
which we travelled all night, arriving at Strasburg at four o’clock in
the morning, and taking up our quarters at the Maison Rouge. After dinner
we walked to a bridge of pontoons over the Rhine, about a league distant
from the city, which we crossed, to the gates of the small town of Kehl;
on our way back, we found the bar of a bridge over one of the tributary
streams to the Rhine closed; our passage was thus obstructed, but we
got over it without difficulty, an offence for which we only escaped
arrest by pleading, as strangers, our ignorance of the regulation. On our
arrival at Strasburg, also, we were but just in time to enter before the
gates were shut; had we been a little later, we must inevitably have been
excluded for the night.
On the next day, Sunday, we visited the noble Gothic cathedral, which
possesses the highest and finest steeple in the world, the summit being
five hundred and seventy-four feet from the ground. This we ascended, and
I had the temerity to mount some feet higher than my companions, which
procured me a severe lecture; I had no small difficulty to convince them
that the sense of touch, on which I depended, was less likely to deceive
than the eye, when the dizzy height would make the
“⸺brain turn, and the deficient sight
Topple down headlong.”
This cathedral is remarkable for the numerous allegorical figures about
it, intended to expose the licentious and crafty characters of the Monks
of former times. We had the works of the renowned clock, once one of the
wonders of Europe, laid open to us, and which describes the various
revolutions of the heavenly bodies.
On our return, we found a military parade in the _place_ where our hotel
stood, the band of which played a variety of fine airs.
On inquiring respecting conveyances down the Rhine, they informed us,
that the Coche d’Eau, which only goes once a week, had unfortunately set
out the morning of our arrival; and as the diligence goes but twice a
week (on Mondays and Thursdays) we lost no time in securing our places
for the morrow, as far as Spire, being led to hope that we should find
water conveyance, from that place to Mayence.
We might indeed have gone down the river in a trading boat, numbers
of which are frequently going from, or passing by Strasburg; but
the accommodations are not to be depended upon, and there was some
uncertainty in their arrival and departure.
In the evening, after securing our places, we walked into the public
gardens, from whence a balloon was sent off, and which was constructed in
the shape of a wine cask, with a Bacchus astride it. This was succeeded
by a display of fire-works, with music and dancing.
CHAP. XXVIII.
STRASBURG TO COBLENTZ.
We left Strasburg at half after six in the morning still in company with
our former French companion. In addition, we had, in our diligence, two
elderly French ladies, who were very chatty and agreeable; they quitted
us, however, in the afternoon, when in lieu of them, we took in a very
nice young woman going to her husband at Gemmingen; and a merchant’s
clerk, who had previously been occupying the cabriolet. At eight in the
evening we arrived at Landau, were we slept at a most comfortable inn.
The whole of the next day was alternately fine and showery. When we had
travelled two leagues from Landau, the spring of the carriage broke down,
and detained us two hours. We noticed that the wife of the blacksmith,
who repaired it, assisted her husband throughout the process, and
appeared even the more dexterous of the two. On entering Gemmingen,
however, their work gave way, and we were in consequence detained two
hours longer; even this afterwards broke out again, but fortunately just
as we reached the end of our journey. These delays were mortifying
enough, as we did not reach Spire until three in the afternoon, instead
of nine o’clock in the morning, as we had expected.
On our arrival at Spire, we might have proceeded forward immediately in
the diligence to Mayence, and which our French companion availed himself
of, but we preferred waiting until morning, in the hope of finding a
conveyance by water. We were however disappointed, and obliged in the
morning to leave Spire in a double bodied diligence, the back part of
which we had to ourselves. We breakfasted at the Red Lion at Frankendal,
a circumstance which I more particularly mention, because I was highly
pleased with the attentive and feeling manner in which an interesting
young woman waited upon me.
About two leagues beyond this place, there is a bridge over the Rhine,
leading to the beautiful town of Manheim, situated on the opposite bank
of the river. After this we passed through Oppenheim, Worms and Inheim,
dining at the latter, and then proceeding to Mayence, where we arrived
about five o’clock, and took up our quarters at the Three Crowns, an
excellent inn, to which we had been recommended by our French friend, who
had left us at Spire, under a promise of rejoining us here. He shortly
afterwards came in and informed us, that besides arranging his own
business, he had ascertained that a large boat sets out for Coblentz
every morning at six o’clock, the fare in which was six francs, with an
additional trifle for the luggage; this vessel, after stopping to dine at
Bingen, arrives at Coblentz, a distance of eighteen leagues, between six
and nine o’clock in the evening, according to the state of the wind; for
sails are made use of whenever the latter is favourable. In consequence
of this report, we determined to secure our passage for the morrow.
Mayence is an interesting town, and the bridge over the Rhine,
fortifications, and promenades, worthy the attention of the traveller.
There are a number of water-mills moored on the river, which make a
singular appearance. The town was at this time garrisoned by a medley of
Austrian, Prussian, and Brandenburgh troops.
The morning proved, unfortunately, both cold and showery, and of
course unfavourable for our journey by water. At six o’clock we left
Mayence. Notwithstanding the disadvantages of weather my friend was
highly interested by the beautiful scenery displayed on the banks of
this magnificent river, consisting of castles, ruins, villages, and
picturesque cottages, bounded by vine-clad mountains. On the right we
passed the mountain of Johansberg, celebrated for its wines.
While dining at Bingen, twenty miles below Mentz, the grand duke Nicholas
of Russia passed through, on his way from the baths of Emms, to visit the
duke of Nassau, whose castle is situated on the right banks of the Rhine,
about four miles below Mentz.
Our dinner party consisted of a motley group of various nations, some of
the individuals composing which, were pleasant, agreeable people. Amongst
them were, what is in some measure unusual, two or three loquacious
Germans; and also a humorous old Dutchman, from whom my friend elicited
much information respecting the best route to Amsterdam. We felt
inclined to have prosecuted our journey into Holland with this latter
person, in order to have availed ourselves of his local information;
but it is questionable whether a plan of this kind generally answers,
for, on the continent, one does not always find liberality enough in
fellow-travellers to put one on his guard against the impositions of
their countrymen. We had a strong illustration of this about the present
time. I have frequently mentioned a French gentleman with whom we had
been travelling from Berne, and to whose kind attentions and gentlemanly
conduct, we felt ourselves on a variety of occasions, highly indebted:
one day, another Frenchman who had also been travelling with us,
proposed to him to direct the landlord of the inn where we dined, to
charge C⸺ and myself double the established price, so as to let them
off without payment. Our friend most indignantly rejected the proposal,
asserting that he was a disgrace to his country, and that it was the
conduct of such scoundrels, which led to the traduction of its character.
I must name one other individual of our dinner party at Bingen,—a
watchmaker, with a pack-full of watches, some of which he exhibited
to us; his prices were from six francs, to twice as many Louis, each;
several of our companions purchased of him at the former rate. How he
could afford to sell upon such terms, it is not easy to account for,
without supposing that he must have stolen his goods. He was a civil
middle-aged man, and had travelled over a great part of Europe, and, in
particular, followed the French army into Russia, where he sold great
numbers of his watches to the soldiers in exchange, I suppose, for their
plunder. After dinner we recommenced our journey, and at half past eight
arrived at Coblentz.
We were recommended by some of our fellow-passengers to fix ourselves at
the Pomme d’Or at this place, which proved, however, to be only a second
rate inn; and we afterwards learnt that the hotel of the Three Swiss is
the preferable one for travellers proceeding by the Coche d’Eau.
On the following morning, we made a party with two young Germans to visit
the baths of Emms, distant about three leagues on the other side of the
Rhine; for this purpose we engaged a coach, to convey us over one of the
worst roads we had yet met with.
The bathing establishment at this place is perhaps the most commodious
in the world. The main building contains two hundred and twenty
lodging-rooms, at different rates; the prices of each being marked on
the doors; it comprises, besides, several beautiful saloons for tables
d’hôte, &c. We found a party of no less than three hundred dining in one
of them, as well as smaller parties in other rooms. The ground floor is
laid out in elegant shops and baths. In a newly attached part, there is a
most noble coffee-room, with billiard and faro rooms.
The scenery around this spot is extremely beautiful, and bounded by
mountains rising majestically into the clouds, clothed to their very
summits with rich vineyards. These baths are the property of the duke of
Nassau, whose capital is about a league distant, and half a mile from the
village of Emms, through which my friend and myself passed on our return
in the evening, having left our German companions behind us.
CHAP. XXIX.
COBLENTZ TO UTRECHT.
On the 11th of August, at six o’clock in the morning, we left Coblentz
in the Coche d’Eau. Amongst the companions who most interested us, was
a young Polish gentleman, undoubtedly a man of family, and who had been
studying at one of the universities on the Rhine; we were much pleased
with his merry convivial manners, and apparent liberality of sentiment;
he seemed desirous of gaining general information, and was probably
travelling with that intention, as he was well acquainted with the French
and German languages, and spoke of visiting Italy and other parts of the
continent within no distant period.
At eleven o’clock we rested an hour for dinner, and at three landed
for a short time at Born, at which place we received on board, for
the diversion of the party, a fiddler, who, for at least three hours,
tortured our ears with a variety of the most discordant strains, both
vocal and instrumental, that can be imagined. A French gentleman and
lady also entered our vessel at this place, and accompanied us for a
few miles, when they disembarked at an interesting part of the river;
they were making a journey along the Rhine upon this principle, and an
excellent mode to us of enjoying its beauties. After leaving Born, we
passed a large and beautiful island, with a convent upon it. About four
o’clock, the country suddenly changed from a mountainous into a rich
champaign appearance. At eight in the evening we reached Cologne, and
placed ourselves at the Hotel de Mayence. We here, in the newspapers, met
with a first account of the Queen’s illness, and which was accompanied by
a report of her death.
We had no time to visit the churches and other interesting objects at
Cologne; amongst which, one of the most celebrated, is the house where
Rubens was born. Nor could we examine the flying, or rather floating
bridge over the Rhine, formed by two immense barges fastened together,
and which are decked, and railed round to prevent accidents, and said
to be sufficiently capacious to receive at least one thousand persons,
besides carriages, &c. at one time; it is secured from passing down
the stream, by an anchor in the middle of the river; on the tinkling
of a bell, the whole is set at liberty, when the force of the current,
assisted by the rudder, carries it to the other side; this is repeated
every quarter of an hour.