Monday, Nov. 8, 1819.--The disappointment experienced from the unmanly
conduct of Dr. Hill had a happy effect on our little company. It bound
us more firmly and nearer together, and, I may add with truth, almost
fitted us for the field of battle. The hour of 9 o'clock had now
arrived, the night uncommonly dark and cloudy. On our going into the
house one of the strangers went into the yard and gave the Indian
warwhoop three times very loud. About 10 o'clock they took their six
rifles, went into the yard with a candle and shot them off one by one,
snuffing the candle at forty yards every shot. They then loaded afresh,
primed and picked their flints. A large horn was then taken from the
loft and blown distinctly three times very loud. All those signals
(which we had been told of) brought no more of the company. They then
dispatched two of their own party, who were gone until 12 o'clock. They
stated to their comrades "they could not be had." It may be readily
imagined, after what we had overhead, seeing such preparations and
observing many of their private signals, being warned of our danger
previous to stopping at the house, together with the recent and cruel
murders which had been committed, in a strange country, where every man
made and executed his own law to suit himself--I say it cannot be a
matter of wonder that our situation began to put on a character of the
most unpleasant kind. However, we were well armed, having pistols,
dirks, knives and a gun, and were determined, if necessity should
require, to be murdered in the house, and not to be dragged into the
woods, there to have our throats cut. It being a little after 12 o'clock
the bravos proposed to take a drink and lie down on the floor to rest,
which they did, and upon their arms. The house being very small they
almost covered the floor of one room. The small back room was intended
for us. There was no door to the partition, and the logs were about six
inches apart. We were under some apprehension that in case of an attack
they would be able to fire on us through the logs. After they were all
still, myself and companions lay down in reach of each other, our
clothes on, our dirks unsheathed, the guards off our pistols and three
extra bullets in our gun, and agreed if a signal was given to fight the
good fight. I had like to have forgotten Dr. Hill. He had placed
himself on the far side of the bed upon which I lay and had got out of
the wall a small log, but not of sufficient size in case of accident to
allow him to make his escape. Although the evening was cool the drops of
sweat stood upon his forehead as large as peas. He complained of great
pain about the kidneys and that his head hung loose upon his shoulders.
Knowing those fellows were expert at cutting throats, from their
conversation on that subject, I determined to put them to as much
trouble as possible. Took off my cravat and twisted my silk handkerchief
and tied it round my neck. In this situation we spent the night. We lay
on our arms ready for the word. But little sleep. When they would move
we did the same. If they coughed we followed the example. In this
dreadful way the night was spent. I have no hesitation of declaring that
if we had not been well armed or kept a strict watch we should have been
robbed and murdered, and nothing but the fear of our killing a part of
them kept their hands off. Could they have added to their numbers by
their signals, our fate would have been certain. It is probable the
balance of their party was engaged in some other enterprise. About the
break of day the signal of rising was given by our visitors. We were on
our feet in a minute, and our hands upon our arms. Three of them
examined their rifles, and, after having some conversation with their
comrades, proceeded up the road we had to travel. I presumed to place
themselves behind trees and fire upon us without the risk of being
killed. We lost no time in placing our baggage in our carriage and
getting ready to leave this robbers' den. After paying our bill and
being ready for a start, one of the brotherhood begged I would take my
saddlebags into the house again; that he wanted a dose of medicine for
one who was very sick. This I declined doing, suspecting his object, and
advised him to call on some person with whom he was better acquainted.
We then bid adieu to Mr. Rutherford, his family, the banditti and the
edge of the twelve-mile prairie. We had not traveled more than half a
mile when we fell in with four travelers going to St. Louis, which
increased our number to eight persons, and placed us out of danger. In
making a memorandum of this unpleasant transaction, many important
circumstances and some facts have been omitted. To have given a full
detail would have taken more time than is in my power to devote at this
time.
Tuesday, Nov. 9.--Traveled forty-two miles from Rutherford's to
McCart's, a tolerably respectable house, which is a rare thing in this
part of the country. Large prairies, one twenty-two miles wide. Rich
land, but of little value, the proportion of timber being too small,
water being scare and its situation remote. Crossed the Okaw or
Kaskaskia river and two branches of Silver creek on the 10th and 11th
days of the month; distance, fifty-four miles. Arrived at the town of
Illinois, on the Mississippi, a little village opposite St. Louis. We
crossed part of the American bottom, which has the appearance of once
having been the bed of some lake or river. It abounds in marine
substances. It is bounded by high and rocky cliffs from 100 to 300 feet
in height. The marks washed in these cliffs centuries ago at high and
low water mark are plain to be seen. The American bottom is about 120
miles long and from two to seven miles in breadth; contains some creeks
and lakes; is perfectly level, without a stump or root. Soil, ten feet
deep, black as ink, very light, and I think I may add without the fear
of contradiction that it is the richest land in the world. The town of
Illinois is on part of the American bottom, which is low, flat and
unhealthy. Bilious fevers in all their various shapes are to found in
almost every family for forty miles around. More pale and
deathly-looking faces seen in the last two days than I have even seen in
Philadelphia in two months. Crossed over the bold river Illinois to St.
Louis and bid adieu for the present to Illinois. So far much
disappointed in the inhabitants, but not in the land. Illinois is the
hiding place for villains from every part of the United States, and,
indeed, from every quarter of the globe. A majority of the settlers have
been discharged from penitentiaries and gaols or have been the victims
of misfortune or imprudence. Many of those will reform, but many, very
many, are made fit for robbery and murder. High as our country stands
above others for its perfection, yet it has curses which at times
threaten to sink it on a level with the most disgraced. Slavery and
penitentiaries have done more mischief than war or disease. I hope to
see the day when there will be universal emancipation, when the
penitentiaries of the United States will be changed from schools of vice
to schools of virtue. Then will the United States be the admiration of
all the nations of the world, and he that is born within their bounds
will be proud of the land that gave him birth.
Friday, Nov. 12.--Remained this day in St. Louis. The town is not very
handsome or large. The streets are narrow and irregular, and the houses,
with a few exceptions, meanly built. It appears the attention of the
inhabitants has been turned solely toward making money. Taste and art as
yet have been much neglected. Visited the Roman chapel. Although
unfinished it is a spacious, handsome building. The new bank is of
modern shape, in appearance, a very neat little building. Visited the
Indian museum or grand council or war chamber, which contains many
specimens of curious workmanship, and a number of curiosities presented
to the government by the chiefs of different nations. Visited the
theater. This is only a temporary building. It is placed in the middle
of a duck puddle, is finished in the coarsest manner and of the meanest
materials. The decorations inside are few. The gallery will contain
about ten persons and the house 200. No danger of fire. The water rises
in the pit and in case of emergency a tolerably brisk fellow might run
head foremost through any part of it. In ridiculously ugly and slight
appearance it surpasses all ever seen or heard of. It is not half so
large or half so good as the common horse-stables in Philadelphia.
Saturday, Nov. 13.--Left St. Louis at 6 o'clock a. m. Crossed the
Mississippi to Illinois on my way to Kaskaskia. Passed a small village
called Cahokia, a miserable, dirty little hole. But very few good
houses. Inhabitants half French, half Indian, retaining part of the
manners of both. The French language is generally spoken, but not in its
purity. For eight or ten miles we traveled on the American bottom,
which, in all probabilities, never was surpassed in fertility. After
leaving the bottom the country is rather hilly and barren. Traveled
twenty-two miles and lodged at Waterloo, a town without houses. Only two
families in the place. Every land speculator produces one or more of
these dirt-cabin villages. Indeed, two-thirds of the travelers met with
are land speculators. The inhabitants of this part of the country appear
to be a wretched set of beings. Their great-coats are made out of a
blanket, with a cap or hood out of the same piece. Then moccasins and
leggins complete the suit. Uncover a Frenchman's head and his friends
are immediately alarmed for his health. The pig pens in Pennsylvania are
generally as clean and much better built than the miserable huts
occupied by these lazy people. In a state of almost starvation they hold
their Gumbo balls twice a week. For nimbleness of foot and lightness of
heart the French have never been surpassed.
"Hope springs eternal in the human breast;
Man never is, always to be, blest."
Excellent wages in this country for hired people, either black or white,
men or women. It is very common for a log cabin tavern without a door or
window (perhaps a log out to answer both purposes) to sup and lodge
twenty persons, men women and children. A living is so easily obtained
in this rich country that the most industrious of the inhabitants soon
grow indolent. Perhaps the ague and fever unfits them for exertion or
labor, but those things or something not accounted for produces
laziness.
Sunday, Nov. 14.--Left Waterloo and traveled twenty miles to breakfast
at Mrs. LaCount's in the little ancient French village called Prairie De
Rouche or Rocky Meadows. In traveling this distance I saw only three
houses. Just before I arrived at the village Prairie De Rouche we
descended a hill half a mile in height and entered again on the American
bottom. The lands are hilly, barren and full of limestone. Game of all
descriptions in great abundance. Mme. LaCount entertained us politely.
She is considered the queen of this little village, which is the sum and
substance of everything that is poor and miserable. Mme. LaCount's
daughter being ill, I was deprived of a great deal of valuable
information. She speaks good English, and is a very sensible,
intelligent young lady for such a village. The houses here have the most
antique and mean appearance, built of the barks of trees and puncheons,
slabs, etc., often without doors. Their windows are without sashes, but
small pieces of broken glasses of all shapes pasted ingeniously
together with paper serve to admit the light upon a motley family,
between white, red and black. Many of those wretched hovels are ready to
tumble down on the heads of starving Indians, French and negroes, all
mixed together. Negro-French is the common language of this town.
Indeed, unless you can speak some French it is with much difficulty you
can find any person who can understand you. Left Mme. LaCount's,
traveled twelve miles over an extremely fertile country and arrived at
Kaskaskia a little before sunset.
Monday, Nov. 15.--Remained in this inconsiderable village this day. Much
disappointed in the appearance of the long-talked-of Kaskaskia. It is
situated on the Okaw or Kaskaskia river, three miles from the
Mississippi. It never can be a place of much business. The land office
is kept at this place. There are some neat buildings, but they are
generally old, ugly and inconvenient. Their streets are irregular and of
bad widths. The inhabitants are all generals, colonels, majors, land
speculators or adventurers, with now and then a robber and a cutthroat.
I have to keep my long knife sharp and my eyes open. Went to church at
night. A fellow tried to pick my pocket. Had my hand upon my long
knife.
Tuesday, Nov. 16.--Dr. Hill having business at the lead mine, I
consented to wait until his return. Wanting amusement, I engaged in
hunting. Among other game I wounded a parrot, an uncommonly handsome
bird, with rich plumage. It appeared to possess all the sagacity of the
tame parrot. When it was first wounded it made every effort to defend
itself, but after remaining a captive for a short time it appeared
pleased with every kind attention, as do the domesticated parrots of the
West Indies. In hunting, passed over a field that contains 5,000 acres
of land, principally under cultivation. This field is part of the
American bottom and is the common property of all the French of
Kaskaskia. This land produces from sixty to 120 bushels of corn to the
acre. More fertile land I never beheld. The inhabitants are subject to
intermittent fevers. At this time there are thousands of acres of this
excellent land for sale at from $4 to $8 an acre, and a good proportion
woodland. Dr. Hill not having returned on the 17th, I took a ride, the
day being pleasant in consequence of a refreshing shower. Visited the
governor's house, a miserable-looking old building, such as is found in
the suburbs of towns. Crossed the great Okaw or Kaskaskia river. The
water not knee-deep and about 100 yards wide. Visited the
lieutenant-governor's house, which is situated across this stream,
opposite and in sight of Kaskaskia. This is the best-looking house in
the place. It is painted white, but stands alone, without garden, yard
or ornament of any kind. A worm fence is run around the house to keep
the pigs out of the first story. Col. Menard, the lieutenant-governor,
is a coarse-looking Frenchman, with all the habits, manners and dress of
the common ... of Philadelphia. Visited the Indian king of the Kaskia
Indians and his people, who reside about three miles from the village.
This nation is now reduced to about thirty in number. Many years ago all
the different tribes of Indians combined, fell upon the Kaskians when
they were unprepared for battle, and cut to pieces all their warriors,
except about fifteen, and most of their women and children. The king of
this little nation is a fine, majestic-looking man, six feet high. He
spoke French. Was polite and more gentlemanly in his deportment than
some of those great men of the place. He was very much indisposed. I had
the honor of prescribing for him. The names, manners and customs of
these people are such as are common among Indians, with this exception,
that they are rather more comfortable as to living, etc. I was very much
struck with the appearance of one of the young men. He is tall,
straight, elegant and unassuming in his manners, has fine, regular
features, and possesses as mild and intelligent a countenance as is to
be found in more civilized life. His eyes are dark, expressive and
beaming with goodness, instead of ferocity.
Thursday, Nov. 18.--Dr. Hill not having returned, time passed heavily
on. Hunted occasionally and visited the king again. I found his state of
health much improved. He was very polite. Conversed sensibly and invited
me to hunt with him. I took the rounds amongst his people. Found them
generally in bark huts, sitting flat on the floor, making moccasins,
etc. As none but the chief could speak English, I was deprived of the
pleasure of conversation. In one of these bark huts without a door (and
placed at a considerable distance from the other lodges) sat a female
who was recently confined. This female had retired to this cold and open
hut during her indisposition. She was alone from choice, and held down
her head at my approach and showed signs of disapprobation. How
commendable the modesty, even in a savage! She was placed in the middle
of the floor near a handful of coals, seated on a buffalo robe and
thinly dressed. The day was cold and she was without any appearance of
what we call comfort. A small mug of herb tea was her drink, and there
was no food to be seen. This female had twin children, which is a
remarkable occurrence amongst savages. These little strangers were
bandaged tight from head to foot and lashed upon a board with one end
sharpened for the convenience of the mother. Whenever she grows weary
one end of the board is stuck into the ground and the children often are
left for a considerable time. The appearance is singular, and would
astonish those that had never seen the Indians' manner of treating their
children. Indian children are white when born, their eyes very black.
Their hair long, straight and black. Their features full and well-shaped
with large, Roman noses. They look healthy and appear to live on
one-half the nourishment which would be necessary for other children.
During this visit I had an opportunity of seeing the king's daughter.
She has adopted the civil dress and is polite and affable for a savage.
She speaks but little English but speaks French fluently. Her father and
self profess the Roman Catholic religion. This Indian is more comely
than the rest of the females, but I have never been able to trace any
lines of beauty about those children of the forest. This Indian king
owns 2,000 acres of the American bottom. Part he rents out to advantage,
and part he cultivates. He lives well and might live elegantly. I
omitted to mention that Kaskaskia is the seat of government, which gave
me an opportunity of seeing all the heads of departments, governor,
lieutenant-governor, secretary of state, sheriffs, magistrates, etc.
They are well suited to a new country and an infant state.
Friday, Saturday and Sunday, Nov. 19-21.--Spent those days in Kaskia and
its neighborhood in hunting, and rambling through this garden of a
country, every day affording new amusement and presenting very
interesting subjects for the mind to dwell upon. On this day, the 21st,
Dr. Hill returned from the lead mine, a distance of forty-seven miles.
He traveled over a poor and barren country and was not much pleased with
his journey. He saw twenty deer in one herd, and was informed there were
some buffalo, wildcats, wolves, etc., in the neighborhood.