CHAPTER I

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[Illustration: A CHINESE BOOK COVER DECORATION

Made when the Anglo-Saxon people were living in caves]

AS A CHINAMAN

SAW US

PASSAGES FROM HIS LETTERS

TO A FRIEND AT HOME

[Illustration: Publisher's logo]

NEW YORK AND LONDON

APPLETON AND COMPANY

1916

COPYRIGHT, 1904, BY

D. APPLETON AND COMPANY

Printed in the United States of America

PREFACE

Since the publication in 1832 of that classic of cynicism, The Domestic

Manners of the Americans, by Mrs. Trollope, perhaps nothing has appeared

that is more caustic or amusing in its treatment of America and the

Americans than the following passages from the letters of a cultivated

and educated Chinaman. The selections have been made from a series of

letters covering a decade spent in America, and were addressed to a

friend in China who had seen few foreigners. The writer was graduated

from a well-known college, after he had attended an English school, and

later took special studies at a German university. Americans have been

informed of the impressions they make on the French, English, and other

people, but doubtless this is the first unreserved and weighty

expression of opinion on a multiplicity of American topics by a Chinaman

of cultivation and grasp of mind.

It will be difficult for the average American to conceive it possible

that a cultivated Chinaman, of all persons, should have been honestly

amused at our civilization; that he should have considered what Mrs.

Trollope called "our great experiment" in republics a failure, and our

institutions, fashions, literary methods, customs and manners, sports

and pastimes as legitimate fields for wit and unrepressed jollity. Yet

in the unbosoming of this cultivated "heathen" we see our fads and

foibles held up as strange gods, and must confess some of them to be

grotesque when seen in this yellow light.

It is doubtless true that the masses of Americans do not take the

Chinaman seriously, and an interesting feature of this correspondence is

the attitude of the Chinaman on this very point and his clever satire on

our assumption of perfection and superiority over a nation, the habits

of which have been fixed and settled for many centuries. The writer's

experiences in society, his acquaintance with American women of fashion

and their husbands, all ingeniously set forth, have the hall-mark of

actual novelty, while his loyalty to the traditions of his country and

his egotism, even after the Americanizing process had exercised its

influence over him for years, add to the interest of the recital.

In revising the correspondence and rearranging it under general heads,

the editor has preserved the salient features of it, with but little

essential change and practically in its original shape. If the reader

misses the peculiar idioms, or the pigeon-English that is usually placed

in the mouth of the Chinaman of the novel or story, he or she should

remember that the writer of the letters, while a "heathen Chinee," was

an educated gentleman in the American sense of the term. This fact

should always be kept in mind because, as the author remarks, to many

Americans whom he met, it was "incomprehensible that a Chinaman can be

educated, refined, and cultivated according to their own standards."

With pardonable pride he tells how, on one occasion, when a woman in New

York told him she knew her ancestral line as far back as 1200 A. D., he

replied that he himself had "a tree without a break for thirty-two

hundred years." He was sure she did not believe him, but he found her

"indeed!" delightful. The author's name has been withheld for personal

reasons that will be sufficiently obvious to those who read the letters.

The period during which he wrote them is embraced in the ten years from

1892 to 1902.

HENRY PEARSON GRATTON.

SAN FRANCISCO, CALIFORNIA,

May 10th, 1904.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGE

I. THE AMERICAN, WHO HE IS 1

II. THE AMERICAN MAN 16

III. AMERICAN CUSTOMS 40

IV. THE AMERICAN WOMAN 63

V. THE SUPERSTITIONS OF THE AMERICAN 92

VI. THE AMERICAN PRESS 99

VII. THE AMERICAN DOCTOR 106

VIII. PECULIARITIES AND MANNERISMS 118

IX. LIFE IN WASHINGTON 131

X. THE AMERICAN IN LITERATURE 164

XI. THE POLITICAL BOSS 185

XII. EDUCATION IN AMERICA 200

XIII. THE ARMY AND NAVY 212

XIV. ART IN AMERICA 229

XV. THE DARK SIDE OF REPUBLICANISM 237

XVI. SPORTS AND PASTIMES 261

XVII. THE CHINAMAN IN AMERICA 279

XVIII. THE RELIGIONS OF THE AMERICANS 303

AS A CHINAMAN SAW US

CHAPTER I

THE AMERICAN--WHO HE IS

Many of the great powers believe themselves to be passing through an

evolutionary period leading to civic and national perfection. America,

or the United States, has already reached this state; it is complete and

finished. I have this from the Americans themselves, so there can be no

question about it; hence it requires no little temerity to discuss, let

alone criticize, them.

Yet I am going to ask you to behold the American as he is, as I honestly

found him--great, small, good, bad, self-glorious, egotistical,

intellectual, supercilious, ignorant, superstitious, vain, and

bombastic. In truth, so very remarkable, so contradictory, so

incongruous have I found the American that I hesitate. Shall I give you

a satire; shall I devote myself to eulogy; shall I tear what they call

the "whitewash" aside and expose them to the winds of excoriation; or

shall I devote myself to an introspective, analytical _divertissement_?

But I do not wish to educate you on the Americans, but to entertain, to

make you laugh by the recital of comical truths; so without system I am

going to tell you of these Americans as I found them, day by day, month

by month, officially, socially; in their homes, in politics, trade,

sorrow, despair, and in their pleasures.

You will remember when the Evil Spirit is asked by the modest Spirit of

Good to indicate his possessions he tucks the earth under one arm,

drops the sun into one pocket, the moon into another, and the stars into

the folds of his garment. In a word, to use the saying of my friends, he

"claims everything in sight"; and this is certainly a characteristic of

the American: he is all-perspective, he claims to have all the virtues,

and in his ancestry embraces the entire world. At a dinner at the ----

in Washington during the egg stage of my experience I sat next to a

charming lady; and having been told that it was a custom of the French

to compliment women, I remarked that her cheeks bloomed like our poppy

of the Orient. She laughed, and responded, "Yes, I get that from my

English grandfather." "But your eyes are like black pearls," I

continued, seeing that I was on what a general on my right called the

"right trail." "I got them from my Italian grandmother," she replied.

"And your hair?" I pressed. "Must be Irish," was the answer, "for my

paternal grandmother was Irish and her husband Scotch." It is true that

this charmingly beautiful and composite goddess (at least she would have

been one had she not been naked like a geisha at a men's dinner) was the

product of a dozen nations, and a typical American.

The original Americans appear to have been English, despite the fact

that the Spaniards discovered the country, though a high official, a

Yankee whom I met at a reception, told me that this was untrue. His

ancestor had discovered North America, and I believe he had written a

book to prove it. (_En passant_, all Americans write books; those who

have not, fully intend to write one.) I listened complacently, then

said, "My dear ----, if I am not mistaken the Chinese discovered

America." I recalled the fact to his mind that the northwestern Eskimos

and the Indians were essentially Asiatic in type; and it is true that he

had never heard of the ethnologic map at his National Museum, which

shows the location of Chinese junks blown to American shores within a

period of three hundred years. I explained that junks had been blown

over to America for the last _three thousand_ years, and that in my

country there were many records of voyages to the Western land, ages

before 1492.

You see I soon began to be Americanized and to claim things. China

discovered America and gave her the compass as well as gunpowder. The

first Americans were in the nature of emigrants; men and women who did

not succeed well in their own country and so sought new fields, just as

people are doing to-day. They came over in a ship called the

"Mayflower," and were remarkably prolific, as I have met thousands who

hail from this stock. At one time England sent her criminals to

Virginia--one of the United States--and many of the refuse of the home

country were sent to other parts of America in the early days. Younger

sons of good families were also sent over for various reasons. Women of

all classes were sent by the ship-load, and sold for wives. I reminded a

lady of this, who was lamenting the fact that in China some women are

sold for wives. She was absolutely ignorant of this well-known fact in

American history, and forgot the selling of black women. Among the men

were many representatives of old and noble families; but the bulk, I

judge from their colonial histories, were people of low degree. Very

soon other countries began to ship people to America. Italy, Germany,

Russia, Norway, Sweden, and other lands were drawn upon for constantly

increasing numbers as years went by. All tumbled into the American

hopper. Imagine a coffee-grinder into which have been thrown Greek,

Roman, Jew, Gentile, and all the rest, and then let what they call Uncle

Sam--a heroic, paternal, and comical figure, representing the

government--turn the handle and grind out the American who is neither

Jew, Gentile, Greek, Roman, Russe, or Swede, but a new product, _sui

generis_, and mostly Methodist.

This process has never ceased for an hour. America has been from 1492 to

the present time, in the language of the American "press," the

"dumping-ground" of the nations of the world, the real open door; yet

this grinding assimilation has gone on. It is, perhaps, due to the

climate, perhaps the water, or the air; but the product of these people

born on the soil is described by no other word than American. It may be

Irish-American, very offensive; Dutch-American, very strenuous, like the

Vice-President;[1] Jewish-American, very commercial; Italian-American,

very dirty and reeking with garlic; but it is American, totally unlike

its progenitor, a something into which is blown a tremendous energy,

that is very wearisome, a bombast which is the sum of that of all

nations, and a conceit like that possessed by ---- alone. You see it is

incurable, also offensive--at least to the Oriental mind. Yet I grant

you the American is great; I have it from him and from her; it must be

so.

You have the spectacle here of the nations of the world pouring a

stream, that is not pactolean, and not perfumed with the gums of Araby,

flowing in and peopling the country. In time they had grievances more

fancied than real, yet grievances. They rose against the home

government, threw off the English yoke, and became a republic with a

division into States, which I will write of when I tell you of the

American politician. This was the first trust--what they call a

merger--but it occurred in politics. They have killed off a fair

percentage of the actual owners of the soil, the Indians, swindling them

out of the balance, and driving them back to a sort of ever-changing

dead-line. Without delay they assumed the form of a dominant nation, and

announced themselves the greatest nation on the earth.

Immigration was resumed, and all nations again sent their refuse

population to America. I have facts showing that for years English

poorhouses and hospitals were emptied of their inmates and shipped to

America. It was a distinct policy of the anti-home-rule party in Ireland

to encourage the poor Irish to go to America; and now when there are

more Irish in America than in Ireland the fate of Ireland is assured.

Yet the American air takes the fight out of the Irishman, the rose from

his cheek, and makes a natural-born politician out of him. America still

continued to receive immigrants, and not satisfied with the natural flow

of the human current, began to import African slaves to a country

founded for the benefit of those who desired an asylum where they could

enjoy religious and political freedom. The Africans were sold in the

cotton belt, their existence virtually creating two distinct political

parties. America long remained a dumping-ground for nearly all the

nations of the world having an excess of population. Great navigation

companies were built up, to a large extent, on this trade. They sent

agents to every foreign country, issued pamphlets in every European

language, and uncounted thousands were brought over--the scum of the

earth in many instances. There was no restriction to immigration until

the Chinese were barred out. After accepting the outlaws of every

European state, the poor of all lands, they shut the door on our

"coolie" countrymen.

In this way, briefly, America has grown to her present population of

80,000,000. The remarkable growth and assimilation is still going on--a

menace to the world, but in a constantly decreasing ratio, which has

become so marked that the leading Americans, the class which corresponds

to our scholars, are aghast at the singular conditions which exist.

Non-assimilation shows itself in labor riots, in the murder of two

Presidents--Garfield and Lincoln--in socialistic outbreaks in every

quarter, and in signal outbreaks in various sections, at lynchings, and

other unlawful performances. I am attempting to give you an idea of the

constituents of America to-day; but so interesting is the subject, so

prolific in its warnings and possibilities, that I find myself

wandering.

To glance at conditions at the present time, about 600,000 aliens are

coming to America yearly. What is the result? I was invited to meet a

distinguished German visiting in New York last month, and at the dinner

a young lady who sat by my side said to me, "I wish I could puzzle him."

"Why?" I asked, in amazement. "Oh," was her reply, "he looks so cram

full of knowledge; I would like to take him down." "Ah," I said. "Ask

him which is the third largest German city in the world. It is New

York; he will never guess it." She did so, and I assure you he was

"puzzled," and would scarcely believe it until a well-known man assured

him it was true. There are more Germans in Chicago than in Leipsic,

Cologne, Dresden, Munich, or a dozen small towns joined in one. Half of

the Chicago Germans speak their own tongue. This city is the third

Swedish city of the world in population. It is the fourth Polish city

and the second Bohemian city. I was informed by a professor in the

University of Chicago that, in that strange city, the number of people

who speak the language of the Bohemians equaled the combined inhabitants

of Richmond, Atlanta, Portland, and Nashville--all large cities. "What

do you think of it?" I asked. "We are up against it," was the reply. I

can not explain this retort so that you would understand it, but it had

great significance. The professor, a distinguished philologist, was

worried, and he looked it. A lady who was a club woman--and by this I do

not mean that she was armed with a club, but merely a member of clubs or

societies for educational advancement and social aggrandizement--said it

was merely his digestion.

I learned from my friend, the dyspeptic professor, that over forty

dialects are spoken in Chicago. About one-half only of the total

population speak or understand English. There are 500,000 Germans,

125,000 Poles, 100,000 Swedes, 90,000 Bohemians, 50,000 Yiddish, 25,000

Dutch, 25,000 Italians, 15,000 French, 10,000 Irish, 10,000 Servians,

10,000 Lutherans, 7,000 Russians, and 5,000 Hungarians in Chicago. You

will be surprised to learn that numbers do not count. The 500,000

Germans are not the dominating power, nor are the 100,000 Swedes. The

10,000 Irish are said absolutely to control the political situation. You

will ask if I believe that this monster foreign element can be reduced

to a homogeneous unit. I reply, yes. Fifty years from to-day they will

all be Americans, and a majority will, doubtless, show you their family

tree, tracing their ancestry back to the Mayflower.

FOOTNOTE:

[1] This passage was written just before the assassination of President

McKinley.

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