It is observed that the source of these waters is at some distance in

the interior of the rock, and, according to my notions, they hold

communication with the _crater_, which emits sulphurous vapours, situated

a few paces from the water underneath the very house where the sick

repose. With respect to the water, having filled a small well situated

at the base of the rock where people drink from, the chief object is to

have it conducted to the bathing-pits, or basins. The superfluous water

not needed for the baths flows out from them by a small channel; and it

goes to join the rivulet, which passes within three yards of the bathing

apartment.

The sulphurous water flows out in good quantity, making a peculiar noise,

and emitting a smell of sulphuretted hydrogen gas, like that of rotten

eggs; which is perceptible at the distance of many paces from the place,

when the winds are from the east and west. The disengagement of carbonic

acid gas occasions the noise alluded to, through the innumerable bubbles

which rise on the surface; and at the same time it occasions a shower of

aqueous particles, mixed with sulphuretted hydrogen and carbonic acid

gas; its colour is whitish, transparent; and on the walls and canals of

the baths, it leaves a whitish substance, somewhat dirty, very fine,

which when examined proves to be impure sulphur; its taste is at the same

time sweetish and acidulated, but it leaves on the palate the taste of

rotten eggs.

In the bathing apartment there are four large reservoirs, or basins,

constructed with stone and lime; they are equal in size, communicate the

one with the other, and are named Tigre, Sepultura, Desague, and Vejeto:

in these reservoirs, however, the temperature of the water is not equal:

the first indicates on the thermometer of Fahrenheit 90°, the second

89°, the third 88°, and the fourth 87°; the air of the habitation being

70°. In the place where this water was first discovered, it at present

indicates as many as 90°: Haenk, in the year in which he instituted

his analysis, observed that it was only 86°, which proves that the

temperature has since then increased.

The gas which arises from this water, when collected, extinguishes

flame; produces in lime-water a precipitate which dissolves in acetic

acid with effervescence; and it precipitates the acetate of lead, of a

dirty yellow colour. The water reddens blue paper; but, on drying, it

recovers its original colour, a circumstance which proves that there is

a free acid: turmeric paper it does not change the colour of, unless its

volume has been decreased by evaporation. A few drops of any acid produce

effervescence. The nitrate of silver gives a violet-colour precipitate,

the acetate of lead a dirty yellow, the muriate of barytes a white,

but it is necessary to add to it a few drops of acid; the prussiate

of potash produces a blue precipitate, using the precaution to reduce

the water, and of adding to it some drops of nitric or muriatic acid.

Liquid ammonia renders it turbid, which shows that it contains magnesia;

corrosive sublimate produces a half obscure precipitate, which afterwards

effervesces with an acid; it instantly coagulates milk, renders wine

and the water of peaches or pears turbid, giving rise to effervescence

with the three last. A piece of clean silver, if placed in it for some

minutes, becomes somewhat black; when agitated, it disengages carbonic

acid with precipitation, and all the water is filled with bubbles; when

boiled, it loses its smell, it disengages all the free acid, and it no

longer reddens blue paper.

Four bottles of this water, when evaporated, have given forty-three

grains of salts: during the evaporation the surface became coated with a

white film, and a light white substance was precipitated, which consisted

of the carbonate of magnesia and lime, abandoned by the carbonic acid

which had held them in a state of solution.

One hundred grains, obtained by evaporation, yielded

Insoluble matter composed of silica

and sulphate of lime 10 grains.

Carbonate of magnesia 28

Muriate of soda 14

Carbonate of lime 7

Sulphate of iron,—indications of

Bicarbonate of soda 39-98

The sulphuretted hydrogen gas, and the carbonic acid disengaged, could

not be ascertained, for want of proper apparatus.

The water of the four baths fitted up for the sick is of the same quality

with the one here analyzed; with the difference that in the three last

its temperature is less, and that it does not disengage in such quantity

the sulphuretted hydrogen nor the carbonic acid.

The _new water_ of Haenk, and that from another jet or source which has

been more recently discovered, possess the same qualities with those

of the baths; differing, however, in this respect, that they do not

disengage sulphuretted hydrogen gas. The water recently discovered,

of which the temperature is 91°, contains more iron, but not in such

quantity as the waters of the ferruginous bath. It is of a somewhat

sweetish acidulated taste, and it leaves a certain asperity on the

palate. Reagents act upon these in the same way as they do on the

sulphurous water.

PECULIARITIES OBSERVABLE IN THE SULPHUROUS WATER BATHS.

Shortly after having entered the bath, the whole body becomes covered

with numberless air-globules of a pearly appearance. Some degree of heat

and pungency is felt all over the skin; and, soon after immersion in the

water, the smell from it ceases to be perceived. It occasions a slight

degree of uneasiness in respiration, arising from the large quantity of

carbonic acid and sulphuretted hydrogen which arises from its surface.

MEDICINAL EFFECTS OF THE SULPHUROUS WATER.

According to Dr. Don Jose Maria Adriasola y Arve of Arequipa, it has been

found by experience, that, since times of remote antiquity, the baths

of the sulphurous waters of Yura have produced the most salutary and

specific effects in a great variety of cutaneous diseases. In various

instances of chronic disorder of the bowels, and dysentery attended with

intestinal ulceration and wasting of the general system, or what has been

improperly termed intestinal consumption, Dr. Vargas found that these

waters restored the healthy action of the digestive organs, kept up a

proper cuticular discharge, and radically cured such apparently hopeless

cases.

This same water is also allowed to be excellent for the cure of chronic

rheumatism, certain deep-seated pains, and contracted joints, &c.

Mr. Rivero gives the following method as that by which invalids are to

profit by the use of the sulphurous baths of Yura.

The first four or six baths must be taken in the bathing-places named

Desague or Sepultura, which emit less gas and are of lower temperature;

for by entering the bath called Tigre, which is the most active, the

body experiences a very disagreeable sensation, and at the same time the

breast is peculiarly affected.

To be in a fit condition for enjoying the advantages of the bath,

the individual must have the stomach empty, be free from fatigue,

perspiration, as well as mental emotion of every sort. The bath should

not be continued above three quarters of an hour, and in the Tigre one

should not remain above twenty or thirty minutes. Should the nature of

the disease so require, the invalids may bathe twice a day. A purgative

of cream of tartar or Epsom salts should be taken as a preparative

for bathing in these baths. Strict attention to diet, daily exercise

to favour perspiration, and great care to avoid exposure to damp or

chills during the time of taking exercise, or coming from the bath, are

requisite precautions.

The effects of these waters are slow of manifesting themselves, and, for

this reason, their continued use in many cases is necessary; to their

perseverance and constancy in this respect many individuals, now in the

enjoyment of perfect health, owe their recovery.

STEAM NAVIGATION.

We have in Vol. I. p. 173, alluded to the prospects of a Steam Navigation

along the shores of the Pacific Ocean; and we are now happily able to

subjoin a few statements on this subject, for the perusal of such of our

readers as may not have seen the report of the British merchants and

residents at Lima and Callao, upon the subject of opening through Panama

a direct communication between Great Britain and the western coast of

South America.[66]

The first meeting on this interesting subject was held in Lima on the

12th of August 1836; and on the 7th of September, at a public meeting,

the report of the British Merchant Committee was unanimously approved,

and ordered to be printed and circulated in English and Spanish. From a

pamphlet, accompanied with documents which detail the general plan of the

intended operations of the Pacific Steam Navigation Company, printed by

J. M. Masias, in Lima, we extract the following authentic information

regarding the “Statistics of Trade, and the favourable influence of Steam

Navigation.”

“It is only since the dynasty of Spain ceased to exist in South America,

that the shores of the Pacific have been thrown open to foreign commerce;

and, when it is considered how much these countries have suffered from

continued revolutionary convulsions, the rapid advance of commerce and

trade is somewhat extraordinary. The following statement of imports is

from the best data which could be obtained.

British 12,000,000 dollars.

North American 2,500,000

French 1,500,000

Peninsular 1,000,000

Germany, and other places on the

continent 1,250,000

China, Bengal, and Manilla 750,000

Brazil and Buenos Ayres 300,000

----------

Total 19,300,000 dollars.

----------

“Of which there is consumed

In Chile 4,500,000 dollars.

Peru and Bolivia 7,500,000

Equador and New Granada 1,500,000

Central America 2,000,000

Mexico and California 3,800,000

----------

Total 19,300,000 dollars.

----------

“The whale fishery of the Pacific may be estimated as follows:

North American 12,500,000 dollars.

British 5,000,000

French 3,000,000

----------

Total 20,500,000 dollars.

----------

“The whole interest involved, including the Pacific whale fishery,

amounts to nearly forty millions of dollars.

“The beneficial influence of steam navigation along the shores of the

Pacific, and the opening a communication with Europe and North America,

_viâ_ Panama, are subjects of deep interest, not only to those engaged in

commerce with the Pacific, but also to the whole commercial world.

“The present state of communication is long and tedious between Peru and

Great Britain; it may be averaged at about four months; while, by the

proposed route, it will be reduced to little more than one-third that

period, viz.

Lima to Panama 6 days.

Pacific to Atlantic 1

Isthmus to Jamaica, by steam, 3

Jamaica to England 36

--

Total number of days 46

--

“By substituting steam navigation between Jamaica and England, the

voyage from Great Britain to Peru could be performed in little more than

a month.

“The security which will be given to commerce by this prompt

communication, the facilities afforded to merchants in realizing the

proceeds of their shipments, the consequent increase of trade, the

regularity of advices along the shores of the Pacific, so desirable for

British commerce,—are points of universal interest. To the squadrons

stationed in those seas an immense advantage will also be gained by

the facility of communication and the increased efficiency of their

operations. The moral influence to be effected will tend to strengthen

and sustain the governments of the respective states against the

usurpation of revolutionary demagogues.”

We further beg leave to add, on the same very good authority, the

following valuable remarks for the information of those who are

unacquainted with the localities of Panama, and the difficulties and

facilities to be met with in crossing the Isthmus.

“The seasons are distinguished by rainy season and dry season. From June

to November constitutes the former; from November to June the latter.

During the rainy season, the journey from the Pacific to the Atlantic

can be performed in two days; while, in the dry season, twenty-four

hours only are necessary: from the Atlantic to the Pacific, during the

rainy season, three days are required; and in the dry season it can

be accomplished in two days. This difference is owing to the swelling

of the river produced by rains. The journey from Panama to Cruces is

performed on mules, being a distance of twenty-one miles, over a bad but

not a dangerous road. In Cruces, there are canoes of all sizes always in

readiness, in which passengers embark, and descend the river to Chagres,

the sea-port of the Isthmus, where they re-embark on board the first

vessel which suits their convenience.

“The transit of the Isthmus during the dry season is neither inconvenient

nor unpleasant: the canoes are covered; provisions, fruits, &c. are

abundant along the banks of the river; the temperature, though warm,

is perfectly healthy, and there is always personal security. During

the rains you are subject to great exposure and consequent illness;

but were a good road once opened, and a steamer on the river, there

would be no danger at any season, and the journey from sea to sea

could be accomplished in _eight or nine hours_, without the slightest

inconvenience.”

ECCLESIASTICAL JUBILEE.

The following authentic document we have carefully translated from the

Spanish; and, having already referred to it, (vol. i. p. 132,) we now

offer no comment on its contents.

We, Dr. Don Jorje de Benavente, Archbishop Elect of Lima, &c. to our

clergy, religious communities, and all the faithful residing in and

inhabiting this our diocese.

Forasmuch as our most holy father Gregory XVI, Roman Pontiff, and

visible head of the Universal Church, moved by the pastoral vigilance

and paternal love becoming a successor of St. Peter, has condescended to

grant a general jubilee to the whole Catholic world, with a view that the

common penitence and prayer of the faithful may obtain from the Father

of Mercies and God of all consolation the cessation of the weighty ills

that affect the spouse of J. C.; the supreme government of this republic,

always zealous for the exact observance of the holy religion which we

profess, has given the corresponding pass to the Brief, which with this

object his Holiness has despatched, of which the tenor is as follows:

The Pontiff Gregory XVI. to all the faithful Christians

who shall see the present letters, health and apostolical

benediction.

After having taken solemn possession of the pontificate in

the Basilic of the Lateran, we have written many times to our

venerable brothers the patriarchs, archbishops, and bishops,

concerning the calamities of the Church; encouraging them to

oppose with all their might, like walls of Israel, those snares

with which, to our great sorrow, she is beset. For the same

purpose, also, we have admonished them that they should raise

their eyes and hands to the mountain from whence we expect

assistance; certain that, with the favour of Him who governs

the winds and the sea, tranquillity will be procured, and that

the divine mercy descends when the humble prayer ascends to God.

But seeing that the conspiracy of the wicked everywhere gains

ground, and that the tempest even increases, we have resolved

that in all the Church prayers be publicly offered; by this

means opening up the treasure of celestial gifts, to the

end that the consciences being regulated and purified in a

holy manner from the uncleanness of transgressions, prayers

themselves may be rendered more agreeable and acceptable to

God, ascending to his presence as a delicate perfume.

It has been an ancient custom of the Romish Church, observed by

our predecessors, not only in the commencement of their supreme

pontificate, but always when the Lord chastened his people, to

resort to the prayers of the community, and to rouse all to

penitence by freely opening for them the sacred treasury of the

indulgences; with a view that, detesting their iniquities, and

humbly making confession of them, they should with confidence

draw near to the Throne of Grace, that is to God, who is

magnanimous to pardon, and refuses not his mercies even when

he is provoked. With this example before us, we, after calling

on the Father of Mercies with constant and fervent prayer,

promulgate throughout the whole Catholic world an indulgence

in the form of a general jubilee; cheerfully hoping that the

Author of all comfort shall shorten the days of tribulation, so

that, the storm having entirely ceased, the peace of the Church

may be firmly established, and public happiness everywhere

restored.

Hence, confiding in the mercy of Almighty God, and in the

authority of the blessed Apostles St. Peter and St. Paul,—and

exercising the power to bind and unbind, which, though of

ourselves unworthy, the Lord conceded to us,—we have resolved

to concede, and we do grant by the tenor of these presents,

full indulgence (such as it has been customary to concede on

the year of jubilee) of all their sins to all and to each

of the Christians of both sexes residing in and entering

into this our capital (Rome), who in the term of three weeks

current from the fourth Sunday of Advent,—that is, from the

23rd day of this month, December, till the 13th inclusive of

the following January, on which falls the first Sunday after

the Epiphany,—and on the eighth day of the same, shall have

twice visited the Basilics of St. John of Lateran, of the

chief of the Apostles, and of St. Mary la Mayor, or one of

these at least, and there will have devoutly prayed for some

time, and fasted Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday of one of

the said weeks; and within the same period, having confessed

their sins, will have received the most holy sacrament of the

Eucharist, and may have given the poor some charity, as to

each individual his devotion may dictate: moreover to all the

faithful Christians existing in all parts without our capital

we concede plenary indulgence, provided they shall have twice

visited all or some one of the churches, which may be assigned

to them by the local ordinaries, or their vicars or officers,

or others under their orders; and, in their default, by the

curates of souls, after these our letters may have reached

their notice;—it being further required that they should have

practised with devotion the other foresaid works in the space

of three weeks, to be fixed upon by the churches.

In like manner we concede that voyagers and travellers may

enjoy the same indulgence immediately that, on returning to

their homes, they put in practice the above-named works,

and visit twice the cathedral church, either the greater or

parochial, of the place of their residence. We also grant to

the regulars of both sexes who live in perpetual seclusion, and

all laical persons who, from being in gaols or prisons, or on

account of corporeal infirmity, or any other impediment, shall

not be able to practise all or any of the works mentioned, that

a confessor of those actually approved by the local ordinaries

may commute these works into others of a pious kind, or

prorogue them to some other early period, and impose on them

those which the penitents themselves can exercise; and that

he may also dispense the communion to children who shall have

never communicated.

We further concede licence and authority to all and to each

of the faithful Christians, seculars or regulars, of whatever

order or institute, though the particular denomination should

be specified, that they may choose, for the expressed object,

any confessor, secular or regular, of those actually approved

by the ordinaries, (as also to the nuns, who may choose any

confessor of those approved for them, whether the nun be a

novitiate or a profesa,) who can absolve them, and liberate

them at the tribunal of conscience, and for this time only,

from the censures of excommunication, suspension, and other

ecclesiastical penalties, for whatever reason enjoined or

imposed, either _jure vel ab homine_; and also from all their

sins, excesses, crimes, and delinquencies, however grave and

enormous they may be, even when they shall have been especially

reserved to the local ordinaries, or to us and the apostolical

chair, and whose absolution on the other hand should not be

considered as granted in the most ample concession; moreover,

they may commute into other pious and salutary works all manner

of vows, though these may have been made with an oath, and the

power of dispensation regarding them reserved to the apostolic

chair,—always excepting the vow of religion and chastity, and

the bonds (obligatorios) accepted by a third person, or from

the commutation of which an injury would follow to another,

as also those penal acts which are called preservatives from

sin,—unless the future commutation be presumed to be not less

sufficient to separate from sin than the first matter of the

vow, imposing salutary penance in the above-said cases, and

such other particulars as the confessor may be pleased to

enjoin.

But not on this account is it our pleasure to give dispensation

by these presents in any other public or private irregularity,

nor in any defect, stigma, incapacity, or ineptitude, in

whatever way contracted; or to confer authority of dispensation

therein, or to qualify and restore such delinquents to their

former state, even in the tribunal of conscience; nor to

derogate the constitution, _sacramentum penitentiæ_, published

with its corresponding explanation by our predecessor of happy

memory, Benedict XIV; nor that these letters can or ought to

avail in any way those who by us and the apostolic chair, or by

any prelate or ecclesiastical judge, may have been expressly

excommunicated, suspended, interdicted, or publicly denounced

as liable to spiritual animadversion,—unless within the term of

the three specified weeks they give satisfaction to, or come to

an understanding with, the parties concerned.

Thus then, by the tenor of these presents, and the ineluctable

obligation of holy obedience, we strictly enjoin all our

venerable brethren, the patriarchs, archbishops, bishops,

and all other prelates in the churches, and all ordinaries

wheresoever, their vicars and officers, and failing of these,

the curates of souls, to the end that when they receive

transcripts of these letters, or printed copies thereof, and

moved by circumstances of time and place, find it convenient

in the Lord to publish the same, they may so publish and cause

them to be published in their churches, dioceses, provinces,

cities, towns, territories, and places; and having, as far

as in them lies, prepared the minds of the people by the

preaching of the divine word, may designate the churches and

the time whereat and wherein this jubilee may be obtained;

all constitutions and apostolical briefs to the contrary

notwithstanding,—especially those in which the power of

absolution in the cases therein expressed is reserved to the

R. P. for the time being,—so that the concessions of such

like indulgences and powers, or of any other kind, may be of

use to no one, unless express mention or special derogation

be made thereof: notwithstanding, moreover, the rule of not

conceding indulgences after the manner of this letter, and the

statutes and customs of any order, congregation, or institute

whatsoever, although the same should be corroborated by oath

and apostolic confirmation, or any other form of stability

whatsoever; notwithstanding, moreover, the privileges and

pardons in whatever way conceded, approved, and renewed by

apostolic letters in favour of the said orders, congregations,

institutes, and individuals thereunto belonging. For as much

as touching all and each of the above, (and notwithstanding

that express and special mention should be made thereof and

the tenor thereof, and not by general expressions to the same

effect, or that some other particular form ought to be used

with regard to them,) holding their tenor to be sufficiently

expressed in these letters, and the prescriptions thereof

duly observed, we do for this particular time nominally and

expressly annul and derogate them, as well as everything that

may appear to the contrary, to the end that the foregoing

concession may have its due effect.

And with a view that these letters, which cannot be forwarded

to every situation, may yet easily reach the notice of all, we

desire that to their transcripts, or printed copies, provided

they be signed by some notary public, and sealed with the seal

of some person constituted in ecclesiastical dignity, may be

given in all parts, and by all, the same credit as to the

originals, if these shall be shown to them.

Given at St. Peter’s in Rome, sealed with the ring of the

Sovereign Pontiff, on the 2nd December 1832, the second year of

our pontificate.

For Cardinal ALBANO,

A. PICHONI, Substitute.

Lima, September 5th, 1834.—Examined with the exposition of the council of

state on the 3rd instant. If the Metropolitan doubts not the authenticity

of this brief, he shall cause it to be published in this diocese and

the other bishoprics, with this express qualification, namely—without

prejudice of the jurisdiction and innate powers of the episcopate.—To

this effect let it be returned, retaining a certified copy.—A rubric of

his excellency P. O. and of the secretary of state—Leon.

For the reasons expressed,—satisfied of the authenticity of the said

brief, and in fulfilment of what is therein ordained, we order it to be

published, and in effect we do publish it with due solemnity, as well

in this capital as in all the curacies or parishes of our diocese; and

we ordain and command that from the 2nd of October first, till the 7th

of December, spiritual exercises shall be successively performed in

the churches of Santo Domingo, San Pedro, San Agustin, La Merced, San

Francisco, San Lazaro, and Santuario de Cocharcas, the distribution of

which will be separately assigned, so that the faithful may be prepared

to gain the holy jubilee according to and in the manner expressed in the

proclaimed brief.

The jubilee will be opened and commence on the second Sunday of Advent;

on which occasion will be said in this holy cathedral church a solemn

mass, with a sermon, at which all the clergy and religious community will

assist; after the conclusion of which the hymn, Veni Creator, will be

sung: and from this day to the 27th of December inclusive, will expire

the three weeks designated by his Holiness for gaining the jubilee, which

shall be concluded with a solemn mass as an act of thanks, which will be

said in the same manner as the first; and the same will be practised in

the other churches as best may be.

To gain the jubilee in this capital, we fix upon the churches of the

Cathedral, Santo Domingo, San Francisco, San Pedro, San Agustin, La

Merced, and La Parroquia de San Lazaro, which the faithful shall visit

twice, or at least one of the said churches, during the three weeks

indicated; at the same time putting in practice whatever else the brief

requires.

In the suburbs the jubilee will be published, and it will be gained on

the same days as in this capital.

In the other parishes of this archbishopric, the three weeks of the

jubilee will run from Passion Sunday to Saturday _in Albis_ inclusive, of

1835; in consideration that this is the most proper time, for, during it,

all the faithful congregate in the parochial capitals to comply with the

annual precept of the Church.

To gain the jubilee in the suburbs and other parishes of the

archbishopric, we assign the parochial churches, which the faithful shall

visit twice, taking care to do whatever else his Holiness prescribes.

With respect to the religious communities of either sex, the sick,

imprisoned, voyagers and travellers, it will be according to the literal

tenor of the brief cited. And that it may come to the notice of all the

faithful of this archbishopric, this our edict shall be fixed on all the

doors of the churches; and the necessary copies shall be remitted to all

the prelates and parish priests of the archbishopric.

Given in Lima, sealed with the seal of our office, and countersigned by

our secretary, on the 26th September 1834.

Signed,

JORJE (George), Archbishop elect, of Lima.

DR. MANUEL GARATE, Secretary.

LANCE’S ADIEU TO LIMA.

The following lines, with the notes annexed, were written under

circumstances of great bodily and mental suffering in the year 1833, when

the learned and very accomplished gentleman who penned them proposed to

return to his native country. They were inscribed by him to his friends,

among whom it has long been the author’s happiness to have occupied a

favoured place. The notes are not only illustrative of the “Adieu to

Lima,” but also of several incidental remarks contained in the preceding

pages—especially of the interesting ruins of Pachacamac alluded to in

vol. i. page 144.

I.

Welcome, thou heaving dark blue Sea!

Thy luckless child am I;

Thine island-child was nurs’d by thee

Beneath the northern sky;

II.

In that proud land—baptiz’d of old

To freedom in thy waves—

Confirm’d in glory—steel-ribb’d hold

Of men who’ll ne’er be slaves.

III.

On southern shores I’ve linger’d long,

My life is waning fast;

And Sorrow, with her forked tongue,

Has struck me down at last.

IV.

I’ll fling me on my mother’s breast,

The sweeping dark blue Sea:

O bear me to my island-nest,

To die among the free!

V.

Land of the Incas, fare thee well!

Thy valé soon is told:

I would no longer in thee dwell

For Huascar’s chain of gold![67]

VI.

Thy sceptre erst was sway’d by kings,—

They could not hold it firm;—

But now thy children crouch to things

More worthless than the worm.

VII.

Away! I will not stop to mourn

Thy sorrows or thy shame;

Nor tell what anguish I have borne

Since to thy shores I came.

VIII.

Let Indian pipe, so meek and low,[68]

Bemoan thine Incas’ fall;

And Indian maid, with garb of woe,[69]

Her country’s wrongs recall:

IX.

And, sadder still, the cuculi[70]

Complain in ev’ry vale,

When ev’ning with her dewy eye

Brings round the hour of wail.

X.

I’ll fling me on my mother’s breast,

The sweeping dark blue Sea:

O bear me to my island-nest,

To die among the free!

XI.

Like silver bells, yon snowy peaks[71]

Are hung upon the clouds!

’Tis sweet to see when morning breaks,

And strips them of their shrouds.

XII.

’Tis sweet to see ’midst orange rows

The spires of Lima wind;

But sweeter far than these or those,

To leave them all behind!

XIII.

Then wherefore does my bosom heave?

Why starts th’ unbidden tear?

Some scenes there are ’tis hard to leave,

Some friends my soul holds dear!

XIV.

Thou good-man’s eyrie, on the rock![72]

From thee I’m loth to part!

With names belov’d in mem’ry’s book

Sure thou recorded art!

XV.

There, with my friend, full many an hour

Of cank’ring care I’d cheat;

Or range the ample corridor,

The balmy breeze to greet!

XVI.

Or gaze on Pachacamac’s height,[73]

As peal’d the evening gun;

And see its mystic form dilate

Against the setting sun!

XVII.

And thou, dear Garden, ’neath thy bowers[74]

How swift the moments flew!

They pass’d the sweetness of thy flowers,

Though steep’d in evening dew!

XVIII.

Like stars that seek each other’s light,[75]

To form, as poets sing,

A path for gods, and o’er the night

Their mingled radiance fling:

XIX.

E’en so we cluster’d there, with souls

That friendship made but one:—

But hark! my knell of parting tolls,—

Sweet friends, I must be gone.

XX.

I’ll fling me on my mother’s breast,

The sweeping dark blue sea:

O bear me to my island-nest,

To die among the free!

FOOTNOTES

[1] Wheat and flour are principally supplied from Jauja, and barley from

Tarma; fruit from Huanuco, and sugar from Huanuco and Huaylas.

[2] Plata-piña, or simply piña, is the name given to silver not

entirely purified from the mercury which adheres to it in the process

of amalgamation. Amalgamation is effected by mixing the ore, after it

has been ground, with salt and quicksilver; treading the whole together

by men or cattle; then allowing it to repose in _cerco_, or in the

enclosure in which it has been trodden, for a month or six weeks. At the

expiration of this time the quicksilver is supposed to have combined with

all the silver in the mass, and to have formed a perfect amalgam, called

_pella_, which is separated by washing away the mud and refuse of the

ore. The pella, thus procured, is white, and so liquid that, by putting

it into a strong bag a considerable quantity of the mercury is made, by

pressure, to escape, leaving the amalgam of a solid consistence. It is

decomposed by a red heat; and the mercury being distilled, it may again

be applied to the same purpose as before. In this process, however, there

is usually a great waste of quicksilver on account of the bad apparatus

employed; and the fixed metal or silver which remains is what is called

piña. This piña is usually sold by the miner in round masses larger than

cannon-balls; and these balls of silver are, by the trader who does not

venture on smuggling, carried to the government smelter stationed at the

mines, (an office for many years back honourably filled at Cerro Pasco

by a learned and good man, Don Toribio de Oyorzabal,) by whom they are

cast into the foundery, and, being there melted down and sufficiently

purified, are now cast into bars, which are stamped as being of a proper

_ley_ or standard purity: after which they may be conveyed to the mint

for coinage.

[3] At Huallianca, Hualliay, and several other parts of the rich

department of Junin, smelting is used for the extraction of silver:

but in Cerro Pasco smelting is little practised. In the district of

Yauricocha, and especially in the great or King’s mine, the ores are

found to contain a considerable portion of the sulphuret of lead; and,

also, of the sulphurets of copper, of iron, and of silver.

Such is the quantity of sulphuric acid distributed among the mines of

Cerro Pasco, which are placed among limestone hills, that the water which

they contain is observed to corrode the iron machinery exposed to its

continued action.

[4] “_Cobos._”—This was a duty of one and a half per cent. on the metals

extracted from the mines. Its origin, as we are informed, was a grant to

this amount, made by the Spanish government in favour of an individual of

the name of Cobo. This became a permanent tax which, like the tithes of

the metals, afterwards fell into the hands of the government, until both

were abolished a few years ago, as alluded to in the text.

[5] We have lately learned that during the years 1837 and early in 1838,

quicksilver became so scarce in Peru, that it cost 200 or 220 dollars

per quintal. The consequence has been that a private company, under the

auspices of the Protector, Santa Cruz, was formed by the enterprising

General Otero and others, to clear out the Socabon, or adit, and re-work

the long neglected and abandoned mines of Huancavelica—which are distant

from Cerro Pasco sixty-six leagues, by the route of Tarma, Jauja, and

Iscuchaca. This company has made some progress in the works; but the

quantity of quicksilver yet extracted by them cannot be said to have had

any sensible influence on the price of this valuable metal, which, in

consequence of the large shipments lately made of it, has fallen to about

one-half the above enormous price. During the period referred to,—though

the drainage and works at Cerro were considerably improved,—no mines

of second or third rate could cover the expense of amalgamation; and,

therefore, the metal extracted from them was allowed to accumulate in

heaps, (constantly guarded by Indian watchmen, called “tapacos,”) to the

estimated value of three millions of dollars.

[6] The product of a marc of silver of standard purity is eight dollars

four reals, or 1_l._ 14_s._ sterling.

[7] “Guarapo” is the name for the fermented cane-juice used as drink.

[8] “Coto,” or goitre, is common among the inhabitants of Huanuco; but it

is a disease very rarely seen on the western side of the Andes.

[9] From _pexe_, fish; _buey_, ox.

[10] Though Mr. Mathews omits to mention its botanical character, it is

probable from the name _huasca_ (which means rope) that this, like the

former plant, is a pliable bejuco. The bejucos are commonly used in Peru

as cordage, for the purpose of constructing bridges and fences.

[11] The Chamber of Deputies is composed of representatives elected

by the electoral colleges of provinces and parishes. The parochial

electoral colleges are composed of all the citizens resident in the

parish, congregated according to law. For every two hundred individuals

in a parish an elector is nominated; and in every village whose numbers

entitle them to name an elector, or have a parochial college, a

municipal body is established with a right to superintend its own local

interests, consistently with the laws and public good,—and subject to

the approbation of the departmental juntas. The electoral colleges of

provinces are composed of parochial electors constituted according to

law, and they elect deputies to Congress in the proportion of one for

every twenty thousand inhabitants, or for a fractional number which

exceeds ten thousand. But the province in which the whole population does

not come up to ten thousand inhabitants, will nevertheless name a deputy.

[12] See “La Constitucion Politica de la Republica Peruana,” published in

1828.

[13] Cajamarca lies to the eastward of the city of Truxillo, in northern

Peru, and, by the post-road, about forty-five leagues inland from the

shores of the Pacific. It is the principal town in the province of

Cajamarca, and is remarkable in the history of Peru as a seat of the

Incas; their baths and palace are yet to be seen, though in ruins. Here

the magnanimous Prince Atahualpa, who had purchased his freedom by an

immense ransom of gold and silver, fell a victim to the insatiable

cupidity and treachery of Pizarro.

[14] In dry weather sweeping the streets can hardly be considered as a

serious punishment; but in the rainy season, when it is customary for the

inhabitants to walk with wooden clogs, called _zuecos_, the scavenger’s

task could not fail to be of very difficult performance in the Cerro.

[15] The practice, common among Catholics, of visiting the tombs of their

family, and honouring the spot where the remains of their relatives or

friends rest, is not an ostentatious ceremony, but an humble act of

devotion, in which we must believe that the heart of the supplicant is

deeply engaged. In the niches of the Pantheon at Lima, the renewal of

flowers week after week, and even year after year, bears witness that

filial or conjugal affection is still cherished in the heart long after

the object of endearment has been removed from those who only survive

to deplore their own loss, and with tender sorrow pray for the spirit

of the departed. Whoever has visited the cemetery of _Père la Chaise_,

in Paris, must have been struck by the attention of the living to the

dead,—the daily decorations of the grave, and the prayer offered up by

pious friends; nor can we suppose any person capable of viewing with cold

indifference the flowery neatness which surrounds those monumental tombs,

which in _Père la Chaise_ seem to triumph over the silence of the grave.

[16] See Memoria, por Jose Villa, Ministro de Hacienda; Lima, 1834.

[17] Guia Politica, Ecles. y Militar, 1793.

[18] One of the greatest Jesuit missionaries was Father Samuel Fritz, a

German, who, in 1686, preached the Gospel, and converted many tribes in

Maynas. He drew a map of the Marañon and its tributary rivers, which was

published in Quito in the year 1707.

[19] “Amigo” or friend, is the first word of Spanish which the mission

Indian is taught to speak.

[20] The road which formerly existed between Pozuzo and Mayro is now so

overgrown with brushwood as to render it impassable without the aid of

the chopping-knife, with the use of which the Indians of Huanuco are well

acquainted. By this road the journey from Mayro to Pozuzo was usually

performed in two days, and the journey from Pozuzo to the city of Huanuco

in three: in all, five days from Mayro to Huanuco.

[21] It might be imagined that this custom of carrying away and eating

the dead was a good reason for the ancient practice, still in use among

the Indians of the Ucayali, of burying their dead in their houses, as

affording some protection against this rage of cannibalism; but among the

Inca race of Indians the practice also appears to have existed of old,

though without reference to so shocking a cause.

[22] As a comment on this part of Friar Plaza’s letter, we cannot do

better than introduce a passage illustrative of the allusion here made,

translated from a paper of his own in the Merc. Per. and cited by

Lieutenant Smyth and Mr. Lowe in the Introduction to their Narrative of a

Journey from Lima to Para.

“The three entrances to this district (Ucayali) are by Huanuco and the

port of Mayro, by Tarma and the river Chanchamayo, and by the Jauja and

Andamarca, taking the direction of Pangoa, which is passable, and has

been so since the year 1815, when I crossed from the plains of Sacramento

to Pangoa, where I formed a friendship with various nations on the way;

and by this route for seven years the mission has received all its

supplies. In this expedition I explored all that was remarkable from

Sarayacu, which is fifteen days’ distance up the river from the Marañon,

and ascended from thence as far as the river Pachitea, in twenty days

more.” It may be remarked, that the communication with Sarayacu by the

rivers Huallaga and Chipurana is so circuitous, that Fr. Plaza does not

even mention it as one of the routes to the mission; though this was the

route pursued by the late expedition in 1834-5, after the attempt to

enter by the Mayro had failed. The Sub-prefect’s letter, too, took near

three months to reach the mission through the country of Maynas.

[23] As trees of sufficient size for the purposes required are not always

at hand, we have seen near a hundred men exhaust their strength in

dragging a tree by the means of lazos from deep ravines and hollows. This

waste of power might be easily avoided by the help of the pulley, with

which they are unacquainted; but they show great skill in the application

and management of the lazo, and, when arranged for the tug, their efforts

are roused by a song of which the chorus is “Huasca runa!”—Men, to the

lazo!

[24] It was a punishment which in certain cases the law of Spain

inflicted upon female delinquents, to cut off their hair, and sometimes

shave their eyebrows. This, we understand, was done by the common

executioner,—hence the sense of disgrace.

[25] The coca leaf is to the Indian of the interior a necessary of life,

which he uses from time to time, to renovate his energy for renewed

muscular exertion; and in the intervals of labour he often sits down

to _chaccha_ or to refresh himself by masticating coca seasoned with

quick-lime, which he always carries about his person in a little gourd.

The lime is used in very small quantity at a time, but in a pulverulent

and escharotic state. According to the Indian it counteracts the natural

tendency of the coca to give rise to visceral obstructions. Used in

moderate quantity, the coca, when fresh and good, increases nervous

energy, removes drowsiness, enlivens the spirits, and enables the Indian

to bear cold, wet, great bodily exertion, and even want of food, to a

surprising degree, with apparent ease and impunity. Taken to excess, it

is said to occasion tremor in the limbs, and what is worse, a gloomy sort

of mania. But such dire effects must be of rare occurrence; since, living

for years on the borders of the Montaña, and in constant intercourse with

persons accustomed to frequent the coca plantations, and with Indian

yanacones or labourers, all of whom, whether old or young, masticated

this favourite leaf, we never had an opportunity of witnessing a single

instance in which the coca-chewer was affected with mania or tremor.

[26] The whites have already had a foretaste of this retribution in

La-paz, where, as we have been informed, every white man was massacred.

The Indians are said to indulge in the hope of yet seeing a prince of

their own race on the throne; and such has been their well-founded and

now habitual mistrust of the whites, that they have never revealed where

all their own treasures and those of the Incas, which were buried after

the death of Atahualpa, are to be found. This is a secret to every one

but a chosen few of the caciques. A few years before the commencement of

the war of independence in Peru, a rising took place among the Indians

of some of the inland provinces, under a cacique named Pomacagua: but

this insurrection was soon suppressed. The fact of Pomacagua’s being

acquainted with the hiding place of the regal treasure alluded to,

and his offer to reveal it to save his life, was not believed by the

unrelenting Ramires, and he was shot.

[27] Gamarra resigned the government into the hands of the National

Convention, which, it appears, was not duly authorized to nominate a

president. Under all the circumstances, had Gamarra acted boldly and

openly—had he said from the first that he would remain in the government

until a congress should assemble, before which he would account for

his proceedings, he would have acted not only legitimately, but, as

good judges and patriots believed, even wisely: since, by so seasonable

an exercise of moral courage, he might have saved his country from

anarchy. But, having voluntarily left the government, and publicly as

well as solemnly acknowledged the authority of the Convention and the

Presidentship of Orbegoso, his conduct afterwards, in taking up arms

with the insurgent followers of Bermudes, was unfortunate for himself,

discreditable to his party, and ruinous to his country.

[28] This lady united with a vigorous constitution a bold and energetic

mind. She was feared by her enemies, but sincerely beloved by her

friends. In consequence of the rebellion of her husband, and jealousy

of the government that succeeded that of Gamarra, who, but for her

talents and influence, could not have governed so long as he did, this

ex-presidentess, usually called Panchita, was banished to Chile, where

she died of a disease of the heart, which on her death-bed she ordered to

be sent to Gamarra after her death.

[29] The mercachifle is a licensed pedlar, and the pregonero a news-crier.

[30] Ever since Europeans became acquainted with the Indian race,

self-possession has been noticed as one of their most striking

characteristics. Atahualpa was unmoved in the midst of every danger: and

Santa-Cruz (of Cacique blood) has, in our own day, signally illustrated

the same high feature of character in the Inca family. Finding himself

for a moment isolated on the field of battle, and on the point of being

pierced through by a trooper, he called out in a commanding voice—“Alza

esa lanza y sigue me!”—raise that lance and follow me! Thus, his presence

of mind saved his life; for the mysterious power of a superior mind

triumphed over the hostile arm of the infuriated soldier—who, now, as we

are told, occupies a place in the body-guard of Santa-Cruz.

[31] Only three weeks before he made his revolution, he had suppressed

another in the castles of Callao, and shot every fifth man engaged in

it. His own treason, while successful, he called patriotism: but he was

doomed to suffer the punishment of a rebel.

[32] It has been remarked, by those who have happened to be in Payta

during rain, that the soil on these occasions emits a suffocating and

oppressive smell. This is probably owing to the quantity of animal

and vegetable matter which, during a long continuance of dry weather,

accumulates and is left to dry in the sun; and is partially dissolved

by the rain, and absorbed by the circumambient air. It would be worth

ascertaining by accurate observation whether the typhus of Piura ever

becomes aggravated in type in rainy seasons. We never heard of its being

contagious.

[33] The valley of Nasca, though situate in the midst of an extensive

desert, is rendered very productive in vines, &c. by means of

subterraneous aqueducts constructed by the aborigines. Thus, the ancient

Peruvians had fertilized the most arid plains, and left monuments of

agricultural industry on the coast not less remarkable than their

terraced gardens in the Sierra.

[34] This was once the port where the silver from the mines of Potosi

used to be embarked in Spanish treasure-ships.

[35] At what is considered the watering-place of Cobija, so sparingly

does the fresh water percolate from the rock, that we are informed by an

intelligent navigator, well acquainted with these coasts, that it takes a

whole night to fill a small cask placed under the precious drop, by the

favour of which grow two palm-trees, the only vegetable productions to be

seen on the coast of Bolivia.

[36] This fortress was lately dismantled by order of General Orbegoso’s

government.

[37] The Incas had a garden in the neighbourhood of Cuzco, where all the

trees were of gold and silver, and the fruits and leaves of precious

stones.

[38] Valparaiso is sometimes called the Vale of Paradise; yet there is

anything but a look of Paradise in Valparaiso and its immediate environs.

It has been said that the Elysian vale of Quillota, a few leagues

distant, is the Paradise alluded to in this appellation, which is a

corruption of Va-al-Paraiso, _i.e._ This is the road to Paradise—namely,

Quillota.

[39] See Letter from Alexander Cruckshanks, Esq. to Professor Hooker,

inserted in Part iv.-v. of the Botanical Miscellany for March 1831.

[40] Ensayo sobre las causas de las Enfermedades que se padecen en

Santiago de Chile. Por el Doctor Guillermo C. Blest.

[41] This being written in 1828, it is but fair to suppose that, as the

general police of Chile has been vastly improved since that time, the

evils here alluded to by Dr. Blest may have been removed.

[42] According to Humboldt, the farm of Enciero, near Vera Cruz, 3,043

feet above the level of the sea, is the superior limit of the vomito or

yellow fever; and strangers who come by sea, and therefore pass through

a gradual change of atmospherical temperature, are observed to be less

liable to contract the yellow fever than the whites and mestizoes who

inhabit the table-land of Mexico, (of which the mean temperature is about

60° or 62° of Fahrenheit,) when they descend during the wet season to

the port of Vera Cruz. The rains begin in May and end in October, when

the “_nortes_” or north winds set in; and during the prevalence of these

winds the yellow fever or vomito disappears.—Translator’s Note.

[43] The translator understands that chimneys and stoves have of late

years become common in the houses of the higher classes in Chile; such,

however, as still want these conveniencies make use of the old-fashioned

brasiers, or pans of live charcoal. Over these though people may toast

their legs if they please, still their backs and shoulders are suffering

from cold, as the heat of the _brasero_ or brasier is not sufficient

to support a proper degree of general temperature in the air of the

apartment in which it is placed. These pans are very properly denounced

by Dr. Blest as most unfit, and even dangerous, in the close and

ill-ventilated dwellings of the poor.

[44] Western Peru, from the peaks of the eastern Cordillera to the shores

of the Pacific, has hardly any venomous animal except the scorpion, which

exists in the warm intermediate valleys (in some of which a small black

and white snake is also found, which is said to be highly venomous):

but alligators, as we have seen, abound about Guayaquil; and the coast

of central America is famous for its venomous snakes, as well as for

the antidote to their poison, or the bejuco guaco, which in infusion

makes an agreeable bitter, something like quassia. The same antidote

Providence has planted in the neighbourhood of Tarapoto, on the eastern

frontiers of Peru, where venomous snakes also abound. The popular story

in Peru respecting the discovery of the properties of the guaco is,

that an Indian happening to be present when a condor, or some strong

hawk of the numerous species which inhabit the Cordillera, was engaged

in mortal combat with a tremendous snake, observed that as often as the

bird was wounded he retired to a thicket of guaco, broke off the bark

with his beak, dressed his wounds and pruned his feathers with the sap,

and returned to the fight with confidence and spirit, till at length he

killed the snake, and carried it away in triumph. From this the Indian

inferred, that in the juice of the guaco resided the property that

counteracted the poison of the snake; and it is vulgarly believed that

if you rub your hand and arm with the juice of this bejuco, you may

grasp the deadliest serpent with impunity. But, however that may be, the

fact is never disputed, that the guaco is a quick, powerful, and certain

antidote against the poison of the serpent.—Translator’s Note.

[45] Notes on State of Virginia, p. 62.

[46] _Paco_: so called (in the Indian language) because its wool is long

and of a bright reddish colour. Alppa-co, _sheep of the country_, has

the wool long and very smooth; and, though coming under the denomination

of Peruvian camel, is not very well fitted to carry a burden. Llama

llamscanni, or the _working sheep_ (of the Indian) has the wool short and

rough; and is the tallest, strongest, and best adapted for the cargo.

EXTERIOR PROPORTIONS OF THE LLAMA.

Feet. In. Lines.

From the crown of the head to the extremity of

the sacral bone 6 5 0

The coccyx or tail has of length 1 0 0

From the upper lip to the crown of the head

measures 1 1 0

Length of the ear 0 6 6

Length of the neck from its first to its last

vertebra 2 5 0

Anterior height, measured from the base of the

fore-foot to the edge of the shoulder-blade

parallel with the spine 5 5 0

Posterior height, measured from the base of

the hind-foot to the spine of the sacral bone 3 6 0

[47] _Quipe_: bundle of clothes which they carry on their shoulders.

[48] The antelope, by the account of the Indians, sometimes looks

over the tops of the eastern chain of the Cordillera, in the Vale

of Huanuco. In this vale the tiger-cat has been seen; the mucamuca,

probably a species of skunk, as it emits a most offensive stench, is

common; and here too armadilloes may be found among the thickets of the

pasture-grounds, and they are considered by the Indians to be good eating.

Rats are as common as guinea-pigs in all the agricultural valleys of the

interior: the fox ranges all over the high hills and table-lands of the

Sierra; and among the crevices of the rocks, in high situations, the

traveller meets the long-tailed bizcacha, which burrows like a rabbit,

and is valued chiefly for its fur.—Translator.

[49] Jarava foliis involutis, spica panicul.—_Flor. Per. et Chil._ t. i.

p. 5, icon vi. fig. b. As these pasture-grounds are found at twelve or

fourteen thousand feet above the level of the sea, they do not admit of

the cultivation and population of the lofty plains of Anahuac or Mexico,

which are only six or eight thousand feet above the ocean.

[50] The shrubs, as Dr. Unanue remarks in another part of his work, which

grow at the altitude of from twelve to fifteen thousand feet above the

Pacific, are of a woody fibre, resinous, and covered with firm bark, to

enable them to resist the effects of the piercing cold to which they are

naturally exposed.—Translator.

[51] Not only is the ass of Lima the useful quadruped here described,

but one of the most ungratefully dealt with by the natives, who seem to

have forgotten how honoured this animal had been in ancient times. The

saddle-ass is goaded on at a nimble pace by the sharp point of a rib

torn from some of the numerous skeletons of mules and horses, &c. which

are scattered on the mounds of rubbish, or in the lanes around orchards,

within and without the city-walls; and the donkey-driver grins his smile

of savage complacency as he swings about his heavy lash, and nicely hits

some raw and bleeding spot, the effect of former and frequent inflictions

of the same sort at the hands of cruel men.

Ayanque, in his picture of Lima, correctly says,

Veras borricos de alfalfa

Y borricos capacheros,

Borricos cargando harina,

Piedra, cal, ladrillo y yeso.

Veras borricos volar

Al son del latigo huyendo.—Translator.

[52] In travelling from the inland country to Lima we have had occasion

to observe, that when the horse reared on the cold table-lands, and not

accustomed to any warmer climate, was taken from the Sierra to the coast

in the hot months, he pined away almost as fast as a common fowl on the

high seas when confined in a coop, and exposed to the spray in rough

weather. But the pony, thus affected by the climate of the coast, will

with surprising readiness recover his spirits and health as he returns,

and ascends the tortuous and shelving paths that lead to his native

element near the glacial peaks of the Cordillera.—Translator.

[53] The slaughter thus commenced has passed into a custom of annually

destroying these confiding companions of man, when the howl or piteous

death-cry of the poor animals rings upon the ear, on fine summer

mornings, as the watermen are employed in knocking them down with their

iron-pointed sticks in all the streets, and even at the very doors or

gates where the persecuted creatures seek protection in vain.

To see them dragged along the streets, bound together by the waterman’s

lazo, leaving a bloody track behind them, and then heaped up in the

public squares, where they are often allowed to lie for days, is truly

one of the most painful and disgusting sights which Lima presents,

and to which the bloody scenes of the bull-ring are comparatively

nothing.—Translator.

[54] This earth or “huano,” as the translator has been informed, is

an article of commerce at the port of Ilo; whence it is conveyed to

the neighbourhood of Arica, the Vale of Tambo, and Arequipa, and sold

at so much per quintal. When rubbed between the fingers, it emits an

insufferable stench. Tithes are paid upon this valuable manure, which are

always put to one side in a heap, and, like the rest, carried away on

asses. At Huacho, to the north of Lima, birds’ ordure abounds, and is,

we believe, used as manure. But, in general, the soil in Peru receives

no top-dressing; though about Arequipa, in particular, the agricultural

industry of the ancient Indians has always been followed by their

successors, who, by means of the huano, compel the same piece of ground

to yield several crops annually.

[55] Cuntur de Ccuncuni—_to smell ill_—so called because the condor

emits an offensive smell. This name and that of “puma” were celebrated

among the ancient Peruvians: they were used as appellatives or surnames

in many illustrious families, whose descendants yet live, occupying the

rank of Indian nobility or caciques. According to the meaning of these

words, it appears that there were two orders of superior dignity in the

empire of the Incas,—that of the Condor and Lion; and hence the origin

of the surnames, Apucuntur, or Great Condor, as if we were to say, Great

Eagle; Cunturpusac, or chief of eight Condors; Cuntur-canqui, Condor, by

way of excellence, or Great Master of the Order; Colquipuma, or Lord of

the Silver Lion. Cuntur-apachecta is the distinguishing epithet applied

to the loftiest peaks of the Andes; denoting that these are sites among

which only the Condor, of all the tenants of the air, can take up his

abode.

[56] Here the translator would beg leave to remark, that the common

carrion vulture, or gallinaza, is a tame and useful scavenger, very fond

of taking up his station on spires, high walls, and house-tops: but,

as for the bold and soaring condor, he never saw him frequent crowded

cities, or sit on spires, as if this king of vultures had come in the

spirit of pride imagined by Dr. Unanue.

[57] That this belief in the moromoro’s strength and courage is founded

on fact, is not very improbable; and that the condor was believed

in ancient times, before sheep or lambs were known on the Andes, to

carry off young infants, appears from the small drinking-cups which

are sometimes dug from guacas, in which the stone is so cut out as to

represent the condor carrying off an infant in its talons. The pieces

of silver usually found in guacas are representations of natural

objects.—Translator.

[58] See Letter of Iturre to Mr. Muños: zancudos, flies, and mosquitos

are most troublesome in Andalusia.

N. B. The translator would not venture to decide the question, whether

the cimex be more abundant in the metropolis of France or of Peru; but he

considers it not unimportant to state, from his knowledge of the fact,

that the only effectual means of destroying these insects in Lima, where

they are certainly a great nuisance, is to brush over the bed with an

infusion of the bruised seeds of the anona (of Lambayeque) in lime or

lemon juice. For another set of tormentors, _fleas_, the natives on some

occasions use traps, consisting merely of a piece of _bayeta_ or baize,

which is placed on the part where the enemy is felt to bite; and, as soon

as the fleas get into it, they become so entangled in its meshes, that

they are caught and executed at once,—for even the fairest hand can show

them no mercy. It is curious to observe that, when one is affected with

a paroxysm of ague, no fleas come near him: either the aguish blood or

perspiration offends them.

The locust is one of the insects sometimes seen in multitudes on the

aroma trees of the warm valleys, which they strip of every leaf in a very

short time; just as the cauliflowers are devoured by caterpillars and

swarms of butterflies of great beauty. The glow-worm often shines among

the groves and avenues in a warm and dark night; and at Tarma, celebrated

for the fine texture and beautiful tints of its _ponchos_, the cochineal

insect is reared on beds of cacti, planted for the purpose, all round the

town.—Translator.

[59] The Indians of North America called God the Great Man. See

Jefferson’s note on Virginia, page 56.

[60] See Garcilaso, t. i. page 313.

[61] It is evident, from the concluding query and remark of Dr. Unanue,

that he suspected some speculators in the science of geology of no small

share of credulity; and it also appears that he had not himself examined

the bony fragments to which he alludes. Had these come to his hands,

it is probable that he might have been able to ascertain such specific

and distinct characters as should have served to satisfy him that the

teeth in his possession were not only by report, but in fact, parts of

those skeletons from among which they appear to have been picked up. We

may believe that they were conveyed to Lima chiefly on account of their

more portable size; while the other more unwieldy bones would have been

considered too heavy for being removed so far, by persons who may not

have known their scientific value to the geologist.—Translator.

[62] The periods of the great earthquakes of Peru are thus recorded by

Dr. Hipolito Unanue.

Arequipa. Lima. Quito.

In the year 1582 1586 1587

1604 1630 1645

1687 1687 1698

1715 1746 1757

1784 1806 1797

The same author also mentions the following epochs of volcanic explosions.

In Quito.

Cotopaxi, 1534, 1742, 1744.

Pichincha, 1539, 1566, 1577, 1660.

In Arequipa.

Quinistacas, 1600.

[63] Each “_topo_,” that is, an extent of 5,000 square yards of this

soil, is valued at 1,000 dollars; and every six weeks a harvest of

“_salitre_,” or the sub-carbonate of soda, is reaped by the owners.

[64] Vitor, here alluded to by Mr. Rivero, is one of the chief valleys

in the vicinity of Arequipa. It extends from inland, in a north-west

direction, to the large and well-watered valley of Quilca on the coast,

and to the north of Islay: on the other hand, to the south-west, is the

extensive, rich, and populous valley of Tambo.

Between the vales of Vitor and Tambo there is a sandy, hot desert,

(intensely cold at midnight,) with a gradual ascent, through which passes

the road from Islay to Arequipa; and on the scorched plain, great numbers

of wearied and exhausted cattle are let loose to perish for want of water

and pasture; so that along the way-side are to be seen the skeletons

and hides of animals sun-dried, and in different grotesque attitudes.

Travellers have remarked that along this arid plain, which extends about

twenty leagues inland, there are numerous moveable sandhills of regular

figure like a half-moon, with the convex side always looking to the

sea.—Translator.

[65] Arequipa is above the level of the sea, according to Mr. Rivero’s

observations, 2704 yards; but he considers that Mr. Pentland has been

more exact in estimating its altitude, with the barometer of Fortin, at

2697 yards.

[66] Some months ago, the attention of the public had been called to

this subject by the Hon. P. Campbell Scarlett, in a work entitled South

America and The Pacific; and, only a few weeks since, a prospectus

of a new steam-packet company, under the denomination of Pacific

Steam Navigation Company, has been circulated in London. Mr. William

Wheelwright has, we believe, the merit of being the zealous projector of

this very important undertaking, which now promises to be crowned with

success.

[67] “_Huascar’s chain of gold._”—See Garcilaso de la Vega. Huascar, in

Quichua, signifies ‘chain;’ and that Inca was so called from an immense

chain of gold which was made in his honour. If I remember well, Garcilaso

tells us that it required eight hundred men to support the weight of it.

It remains buried to this day in a lake not far from Cuzco.

[68] “_Let Indian pipe._”—The Indians of Alto Peru mourn the Incas in

“tristes,” which they play upon a kind of pipe. In the time of the

Spaniards, at one time they were forbidden to tune these mournful airs,

from political motives.

[69] “_And Indian maid._”—Many of the Indian women wear a dark drapery

suspended from the left shoulder, and falling down to the mid-leg, as

mourning for their Incas.

[70] Who is insensible to the sad wild note of the cuculi, the

nightingale of this country?

[71] Let any one see the snow-capt mountains at the back of Lima, and

that city of spires lying among the dark orange groves at their feet,

at daybreak from Callao, and he will say the sight is worth a stave at

least; and yet I wish I had never seen it.

[72] Buena Vista, the seat of John Thomas, Esq.

[73] The famous Temple of Pachacamac, whose mighty ruins form a beautiful

object from Buena Vista. Pachacamac, like the Temple of Cholula on the

plains of Mexico, is a sort of made mountain or vast terraced pyramid

of earth. It would be difficult to produce any evidence more conclusive

to the benignity of the climate than that which is exhibited on the

interior walls of this temple, whereof the mud plaster, though exposed

for centuries to the action of the atmosphere, remains to this day with

its rude paintings of red and yellow ochre as inviolate and fresh as if

it were the work of yesterday. By the bye, it may not be impertinent

to mention, that, among these paintings, we find what is called the

Grecian Scroll, which, if I am not mistaken, the Grecians borrowed

from the Egyptians. This may serve to throw some light upon the origin

of Pachacamac. Like that of Mexico,—nay, with still more emphatic

gesture,—the gigantic architecture of Peru points to the Cyclopian

family, the founders of the Temple of Babel and of the Egyptian Pyramids.

I believe (see Garcilaso) that the Temple of Pachacamac was standing when

that part of the coast was conquered by the Incas, so that there is no

knowing its age.

[74] Old Green’s Nonpareil, where the Hearts of Oak meet.

[75] “_Like stars_,” &c.—The milky way, which, by the bye, is far

grander in the southern than in the northern hemisphere, seems to have

been formed by the mutual gravitation of myriads of stars. The dark

spots which follow the course of that magnificent nebula, on each side

of it, are probably the spaces which the stars have left vacant and

lustreless.—See Herschel on Nebulæ.

THE END.

LONDON:

PRINTED BY SAMUEL BENTLEY,

Dorset Street, Fleet Street.

Peru as It Is, Volume 2 (of 2) A Residence in Lima, and Other Parts of the Peruvian Republic, Comprising an Account of the Social and Physical Features of That Country · 第 8 / 8 章