CHAPTER V.

Christianized Indians of the Interior.—Their condition and

character.—Hardships imposed on them.—Desire of revenge.

Tangur, in the curacy of Caina, and department of Junin, is one of those

villages so common on the elevated slopes which overlook temperate

valleys in the interior of Peru. In this small village, as we are

informed by a gentleman who for several years visited it in the character

of curate, there are two distinct municipalities, each possessing its

separate church and magistrates.

These separate people, who speak the same Quichua language, do not

associate together, nor do they even hold their religious festivals

on the same day. The origin of this separation of interests, tradition

informs us, is as far back as the time of the Incas, when some convicts,

ordered from Quito, settled at this place, and formed a distinct family;

which has here subsisted since that remote period, without ever mingling

its blood with that of its neighbours, or entering into communion or

alliance with any other people. This is the more remarkable, as it is

the ordinary practice in other remote villages of the interior for the

whole body of men to co-operate in any great work, such as constructing

bridges for their common good, or building houses for the convenience

of individuals; on which occasions one party conducts stones and turf,

another builds the walls, a third conveys timber from the distant

woods,[23] and a fourth cuts and lays on the thatch &c. The unanimity

in this case, and the want of it in that of Tangur, are equally

characteristic of that love which the Indian entertains for the usages of

his predecessors in all things. In nothing does he approve of innovation;

in his condition he has not yet known any durable or real amelioration,

and in nothing does he desire change. In his local prejudices, habits,

and daily pursuits, he only thinks, feels, and acts just as others did

before him. If the general revolution has been in any degree useful

to the poor uninformed Indian of Peru, who has already sunk from the

short-lived excitement of patriotic enthusiasm into the dejection of a

military despotism,—if it has really improved his prospects, it has been

by rousing him, for a while at least, from his wonted apathy to the

general concerns and conveniences of life; opening to his view a wider

range of imitation and desire, and thus breaking in upon the hereditary

routine of his customs and habits, to which, till now, he has adhered

with the unvarying constancy of mere instinct.

The christianized Indians of the Inca dynasty, whose native tongue

is Quichua,—for we do not at present speak of the savage, or

half-christianized Pano, and other yet unsettled tribes of the

Montaña,—are said to be an indolent race; but we have had the opportunity

of knowing that their exertions will increase as the prospect of

bettering their condition expands, and that in general their labour

is only conducted in a slothful manner when it is compulsory, or to

themselves unproductive. We have had ample opportunity to know, that

when they labour by “_tarea_” or piece-work, and are sure of their

wages, they work remarkably well. On their own little farms they are

truly hard labourers; and, if they were not so often pounced upon by

enemies to industry, the fruit of it would be seen in their growing

prosperity. It is those who tyrannize over them who accuse them of

laziness, duplicity, and natural perverseness of disposition. Of such

persons we may be allowed to ask, Have they ever afforded the Indian any

rational encouragement to honesty and industry? Have they ever, by fair

dealing, persevered in the experiment of deserving the confidence, of

conciliating the affections, or of calling forth the kindly sympathies of

these humbler sons of the soil? What virtue, except patience, were they

permitted to disclose under Spanish oppression—(would it were mitigated

under the patriot system!)—when their masters supplied them with the

necessaries of life just on what terms they pleased, and when the Indians

could realize no property, however much they redoubled their toil, for

in general the fruit of their labour was not their own?

The Indians for the most part are an agricultural people, for more

live by tillage than mere pasturage or any other occupation. Many of

the modern villages in the temperate climate of the interior were, not

many years ago, large farms, possessed by Europeans or their creole

descendants; but the labourers, set free at the revolution in consequence

of the confiscation of the goods and property of their fugitive or ruined

masters, have continued to cultivate the land for their own maintenance,

till by degrees their families have swelled into villages, and at length

assumed the important character of municipalities. With a few years of

undisturbed peace, and exemption from undue exactions, small villages

may thus arise and become considerable towns, wherever the locality

happens to afford sufficient scope for cultivation. But as it often

occurs that the Indian hamlet is erected on a pinnacle, or on the brow

of a hill, around which there is but little suitable soil for the spread

of agricultural industry, the consequence is that the father divides

and subdivides the same piece of ground among the rising members of his

progeny, till at length the means of subsistence become too scanty for

the support of the whole family, and, the supernumeraries must seek

employment in the mines or elsewhere, as they best may.

The mechanic arts are little needed by Indians who construct their

own huts, and, with the exception of their coarse felt-hats, shape

their own dress, which in warm situations consists of sandals of raw

hide, wide trowsers or breeches open at the knee, a shirt, vest, and

sometimes a jacket, and over all a poncho. In cold exposed localities,

as Cerro Pasco, they always wear warm woollen stockings and a jacket;

not omitting the poncho, which is the indispensable covering by day

as well as by night throughout the Sierra. Besides such drawbacks on

the growth of Indian population as arise from the want of efficient

medical assistance, and the occasionally destructive effects of epidemic

diseases, other causes have been frequently assigned, and especially an

excessive passion for intoxicating liquors. This propensity operates

strongly with the miner, stationed, as he is, in high and frigid

localities, where he is much exposed to wet under ground, and to

nocturnal frost or snow above it. Here the action of intoxicating drink,

particularly when indulged in by those not born in very elevated regions,

superadded to the usual effects of a highly rarefied atmosphere, and

other causes of a less general character, tend greatly to shorten human

life. But in the warm and temperate valleys which intervene between the

coast and the Cordilleras this vice is by no means so prevalent as at

the mines, where money circulates freely, and all manner of temptation is

to be encountered. For though agua-ardiente, guarapo, and chicha usually

abound in such places, yet it must not be forgotten that the peones or

day-labourers of these favoured climates seldom have reals to spend; and

that, when they have no money, their credit does not usually extend so

far as to enable them to be often intoxicated. For about three years we

had seldom less than a score, and frequently as many as fifty or sixty of

these Indians, working under the eye of a major-domo; and, except upon

some saint-day or festival, we do not recollect having any complaint made

to us on the score of drunkenness. Licentiousness is usually stated as

a further source of depopulation among all classes and castes in Peru:

but, whatever be the true explanation of the fact, we think that evils

springing from such fountains of impurity show themselves comparatively

little in the Indian constitution; and though strict regularity of

conduct cannot be claimed on the part of the Indian family, yet the

modesty of their ancient mamaconas is still remembered among them; and

it is a characteristic which to this day honourably distinguishes the

Indians from their more cultivated masters, that with them conjugal

infidelity is discouraged, punished, and felt to be a crime.

Incessant warfare and intestine broils, by keeping up continued

agitation, are at this day as destructive and desolating to the

aborigines of Peru, and to the general industry and prosperity of the

country, as was formerly the compulsory system of working in the mines,

and manufactories or “obrages,” under the Spanish conquerors. The

factious and seditious spirit which has gone abroad in the republic is

an excuse for a standing army, which in its turn becomes the fertile

nursery, or, at least, frequent instrument of faction; and, what is

worse, military licence is rapidly pervading all classes of society,

and destroying the only true sources of population, which are domestic

virtues, domestic habits, and simplicity of life. We shall dwell no

longer on such causes, already too well known as principal sources of

depopulation in Peru; but, before we quit the subject, it occurs to us to

mention that during a litigation, in which the question at issue was to

be partly determined by the evidence of tradition and ancient usage, a

number of witnesses of the most advanced age in the Vale of Huanuco were

called in to give their testimony, of whom several were from seventy to

ninety years of age, and, with only one exception, in which the blindness

of age came on in an European by birth, all of them were hale old people,

and generally of Indian race.

We would remark of these Indians, that although for centuries they

have endured oppression with the mute meekness of the lamb bound for

sacrifice, they are by no means dead to feelings of domestic tenderness,

or insensible to the natural ties of kindred or of country, whence they

are violently torn when led away as recruits. Wanderers from their native

soil, wherever the public service or the will of an usurper leads, they

brood over the loss of the genial freedom, simple habits, and peaceful

enjoyments that once were their own, when they herded their flocks or

cultivated their corn and pumpkins. In an hospital, on the coast, we

have seen some of these poor fellows unable to speak a sentence of

Spanish to the physician who prescribed for their relief; and, in a

few extreme instances, despair sunk the powers of life, and a hopeless

love of home exhausted their spirits. We have seen one very young lad

thus affected who refused food and medicine, until in silent sorrow

he expired, a victim to nostalgia, or a love of home, and a broken

heart. These hapless beings, whose devotedness to early attachments and

associations bespeaks the warmth and fidelity of their affections, though

cherished under a cold and apparently a passionless exterior, we found

to be indeed reserved, but sagacious; and, when not under any unusual

excitement, their minds, though not cheerful, were serene. Their exterior

mien always struck us as solemn, and even sad; but this may be partly

the effect of the awfully grand and sublime scenery so familiar to their

view, which imparts a solemn and contemplative turn to the thoughts of

the mountaineer, and influences his moral feelings in such a manner as

stamps a certain air of mental gravity on his general deportment and

expression. As an individual, the Indian is timid, and he will sooner

take a cuff than give one; but, when they assemble for mutual support,

then indeed they are seen to fight most valiantly, and like tame oxen,

when the blood of one of their number is shed, they all become fearfully

courageous. Bold and bloody battles we have seen between strong parties

of the native miners in Cerro Pasco, armed for the combat with slings,

stones, and clubs. At festivals, too, when roused by drink or enraged by

jealousy, they lacerate and maul each other: and the meek-looking, dumpy,

Indian woman becomes equally exasperated and vehement if in her quarrels

any one should cut away a tress of her long and coarse black hair; for

the cutting of these tresses is an odious mark of female dishonour, to

which women of every caste in the land,—except the woolly-headed blacks

and mulattas, on whom nature has not bestowed these ornaments,—are most

acutely and painfully sensitive.[24]

From the beagle-courage of the Indian, who, like these gentle animals,

fights better in company with others than singly, his military character

stands very high; and a regiment of Indians when conducted by gallant

officers, as was the case during the war of Peruvian independence, are

sure to prove indomitably brave and hardy. The dark and zambo soldier

of the coast, when urged forward on a rapid Sierra march, is very apt

to sink under the pressure of fatigue, conjoined with pinching cold and

inevitable privations, to which he has been little accustomed in the

warm and humid “potreros” or enclosures near the sea. But the Indian

foot-soldier is superior to such obstacles; and with only the support

of a pouch of coca, and a bag of toasted maize, he will continue his

march wherever the llama can keep its footing over ledges of rock, and

rugged recesses so wild and so land-locked, that, as the dwellers in

these solitudes say, it would seem difficult for the birds of the air to

escape from them. But though, when engaged on long and forced marches

over savage mountains and glens, one of these all-enduring and active

natives hardly ever falls behind from mere fatigue, yet he has not so

far forgotten the shade of his fig-tree in the bosom of the vale, or his

airy home on some distant eyrie, from whence he was dragged in bonds, as

not secretly to pant for his native nest; and, on long inland marches,

the general or commander who is not singularly vigilant, or uncommonly

beloved, has more to fear that the Indian may desert him on the journey

than when engaged with the enemy.

In every village of the intermediate valleys, the white vagabond and

roguish mestizo have “padrinos,” or protecting friends of their own caste

in petty authority, holding the commission of captain of volunteers,

governor, or alcalde, or something more subordinate still; but the more

industrious Indian, who tills his own piece of ground, and peaceably

labours to rear his little group of helpless children, is constantly

the victim of oppression. This useful citizen, who happens not to owe

a dollar to any man of influence whose interest it may therefore be

to interpose with the colonel or sub-prefect of the district in his

behalf, has, to use his own pathetic expression, no “arrimo” or powerful

support, neither friend nor protector to plead his cause with the local

authorities, who, though they are enjoined by the government to enlist

none but idle and vicious characters, are daily seen to sacrifice,

with insolence and impunity, justice and duty to malice and caprice.

The native inhabitants are therefore searched out and dragged from

their houses, or from the caves and fastnesses where they have sought

concealment. Torn from their forlorn and destitute families, carried

away as recruits on every new levy of conscripts, they are bound like

galley-slaves, and then driven along, a spiritless crew, hopeless and

helpless, from the recesses and glens of the interior to the coast,

or elsewhere, as circumstances may require, there to die of ague or

dysentery, or, if they survive the usual effects of great changes of

climate and diet, to be harshly trained for the exercise of war.

It is a law of the country, contained in article 6th of the Constitution,

that the common rights of citizenship be suspended towards the

notoriously vagrant, the gambler, the drunkard, and the married man who

without cause abandons his wife, or who is divorced on account of his own

misconduct. The rich and influential can, when they please, easily evade

such laws as these; but, among the peculiar hardships imposed upon the

Indian of the interior, it is not the least that he may be seized for a

soldier on the alleged ground of his being “mal-casado,” or habitually

cohabiting with a woman to whom he has not been previously bound by the

bonds of regular marriage. It is not impartial justice that he should

be punished in this manner for a delinquency which is almost authorized

by the practice of his superiors. These poor people pair together

naturally, and at an early age; and would, we think, frequently render

their union more binding by marriage, if they could afford it. That this

may be understood, it is necessary to say that the curate’s fees for the

performance of matrimonial and burial service vary in amount with the

caste and complexion of the parties. The fee for marrying an Indian is

lower than that assigned for the marriage of a mestizo, and the white

man pays more than either. One consequence of this arrangement is, that

it is often difficult to ascertain the class of the proposed bridegroom;

and the curate may sometimes be induced to raise the beardless Indian

to the rank of the scanty-bearded mestizo, and the latter has in his

own person great ambition to be thought an “hombre blanco” or white man.

The poor agricultural Indian of the Sierra has commonly enough to do to

provide himself with his coca,[25] a hoe, and a chopping-knife, the tools

that he usually works with; and seldom indeed has he got on hand as many

dollars as would enable him to pay even the lowest rate of marriage fees.

Now, he who cannot pay without difficulty the priest for marrying him

in a Christian manner, thinks it can be no great harm to imitate others

around him whose example ought to be worthy of imitation; and, ignorant

of the language which Scripture addresses to his conscience, he contracts

a marriage sanctioned by custom, though not by religion.

Another hardship in the Indian’s situation is, that he has often great

trouble to pay the customary tribute or capitation tax, from which even

the superannuated are not always exempt, though the Treasury professes

not to receive contributions from the aged. When we resided in the Vale

of Huanuco, men have come to us from the distant province of Conchucos,

imploring work, to be paid for not in produce but in money, which is

scarce in Conchucos, that they might be enabled to return with a few

dollars to satisfy the collector of revenue, not less inexorable in his

demands than the corregidor used to be in exacting the royal tribute, of

which this vestige yet remains. On the coast, a day-labourer’s wages may

be six reals or a dollar, according to circumstances; but in remote parts

of the interior, as in the province to which we have referred, wages are

very low,—for example, a real or sixpence per day. In Huanuco, wages

are nominally three reals a day: but here the native planters usually

run accounts with their workmen, whom they supply with such articles as

clothes, spirits, maize, coca, and perhaps tobacco; though the cigar is

more used by the natives of the coast, and such as use not the coca,

than by the agricultural Indian. By this mode of management the poor man

is commonly precipitated, before he is aware of it, into his employer’s

debt, and very often remains involved, and virtually a slave, for the

remainder of his life; while his sons after him are made to take upon

themselves the burden under which the father sank to his grave. But the

same grinding system involves even the better sort of men who are looked

upon with respect in their own humble sphere, and permitted to prefix

Don as a shining handle to their name,—they also are victims to ruinous

custom and superstitious rites; for they are called upon in their turn

to bear the expense of being the major-domos of the feasts which are

celebrated in honour of the tutelar saint of the village to which they

belong.

To defray the expense of these public entertainments, the major-domos

have in most instances not only to spend all their savings, but to

borrow, and to run up their credit with the sellers of fruit and

preserves, the butcher, the baker, the distiller, and _chicheras_, or

women that make the country beer, and sell the malt, called _jorra_,

made of maize. In short, a major-domo of a festival in a village of any

consideration gets well off if one hundred and fifty or two or three

hundred dollars, pay his share of the anniversary feast and procession.

To sustain the pageantry of one day of drunken and profligate religious

enthusiasm in honour of a favourite saint, these men foolishly entangle

themselves and families in the miseries of debt and embarrassments that

destroy both ease and independence, and lead to a multitude of evils

naturally arising out of such degraded circumstances. We have ourselves

employed in weeding our cane-fields an honest and industrious family thus

reduced to great privation; from which the children could never expect to

emerge, after the death of an industrious father, except by the utmost

prudence, perseverance, and industry on their own part, and friendly

support on the part of their employer.

To conclude these remarks on the Indian’s condition, we have shown that

evil example in high places, religious abuses, the exactions of the

collector of revenue, and also of the priest, (whom, by the by, the

state should deliver from this degrading necessity, by giving him an

adequate income out of the tithes which it has appropriated to itself,)

the arbitrariness of petty governors, alcaldes, and village captains,

together with the restless and overweening ambition of military despots

that allow their country no repose,—we have shown that these causes,

collectively, tend to render the Indian race—which forms the bulk of the

Peruvian nation—insecure in their persons and property, distrustful and

cringing in their character, degraded in their morals, and heirs direct

to civil and religious bondage.

The curates who reside in the mountain glens and deep corries feel

assured, from the well-known feelings cherished by their flocks, that

when the day arrives when these uneducated men of the hills shall

understand what are their own political rights and physical strength,

and shall be commanded by bold and sagacious leaders of their own

blood and kind, they will fearfully and cruelly avenge their wrongs on

all “advenedizos,” all exotics!—on their white oppressors and sable

interlopers![26]

Peru as It Is, Volume 2 (of 2) A Residence in Lima, and Other Parts of the Peruvian Republic, Comprising an Account of the Social and Physical Features of That Country · 第 5 / 8 章