ROD-MAKING: FERRULES AND THEIR FITTING; ONE-PIECE AND SPLICED RODS
Rod ferrules, the metal tubular fittings attached to the ends of
rod-joints, by means of which the rod is jointed up or assembled
for use, are made preferably of German-silver (white-metal) or
of gun-metal. Many high-grade English rods are made up with the
gun-metal ferrules, reelseat, etc., and in this dead black finish
they are both very suitable and elegant. It would be somewhat
difficult to obtain these latter from domestic tackle-dealers;
possibly they might be supplied to special order through some of
the more prominent anglers’ supply-houses. Handmade German-silver
ferrules are readily obtained on special order, the price[6] being
from one to two dollars a pair and may include waterproofing and
serration. Stock ferrules in this metal are kept by all of the larger
tackle-dealers, the variety and grade of some being much better than
those of others. With the best of these available, the writer would
deem the handmade article a luxury except for the very practical
advantage of being able to obtain them in any diameter desired,
exactly gauged to one-thousandth of an inch. The reader interested
in exceptionally high-class rod-accessories, will do well to consult
John G. Landman, 59 Cedar Street, Brooklyn, New York. Edward vom Hofe
and Co. also manufacture certain fittings on their own premises,
at 112 Fulton Street, New York; and we have found Ogilvie’s, at
79 Chambers Street, New York, very satisfactory for some things.
Ferrules carried in stock may be bought at prices ranging from
fifteen to seventy-five cents per pair, according to size and style.
The British taste in ferrules tends strongly to those furnished
with some sort of locking device--“lockfast” joints. These are made
abroad in great variety, but to American eyes they seem cumbersome,
unsightly, and altogether unnecessary. The plain American, friction
(suction or vacuum) ferrule, depending for its holding power wholly
upon mechanically exact fitting, looks pretty good to the American
angler, who never has had legitimate cause to worry about any
tendency in it to throw apart.
Ferrules come in pairs consisting of the male (center or inner)
ferrule and the female (outer or receiving) half, the outside
diameter of a male ferrule being identical with the inside
measurement of its mating section. Either the male or female ferrules
may be purchased separately. This is a convenience, especially in
the case of male ferrules, because of the customary duplication of
the top-joints of rods, for the purpose of having one in reserve
against a smash-up. The male ferrule is attached to the butt or
larger end of a rod-joint.
As ferrules constitute rigid portions of the rod, which otherwise
is uniformly flexible from butt to tip, it is evident that _it is
a mistake to have them any longer than is necessary for efficient
service_. For rods eight to ten feet in length, a union of one and
one-eighth to one and one-quarter inches--depth of penetration of
male ferrule--is sufficient at the joint between the butt- and
middle-sections of the rod, and of three-quarters to an inch between
the middle-joint and top. This will give a desirable over-all length
of at least about two and one-half inches for the larger female
ferrule of a ten-foot rod.
Waterproof ferrules are supplied at an extra cost; they are made by
soldering a disk of metal within the female ferrule at the point
where it is intended that this partition shall come down against
the end of the rod-joint, in order to prevent access of water to
the otherwise unprotected wood here; and wood absorbs moisture more
rapidly from the ends than from the sides, and especially at these
bamboo-ends unprotected by enamel. However, neither does the author
consider these are a necessity, as he is willing to take the risk of
any water finding its way into the joint of a rod that is fitted with
ordinary ferrules set on after the manner which will be recommended.
[Illustration:
Varieties of ferrules: (1) Plain straight; (2) Shouldered, swelled or
capped; (3) Capped with rim welt; (4) Straight with welt, and capped
and closed center; (5) Hexagonal ends ]
Ferrules are cataloged as plain straight; shouldered, capped or
swelled; straight with rim or welt; and shouldered with welt. And
some have hexagonal proximal or rod-joint ends--which do not appeal
strongly to the majority of experienced anglers. The accompanying
illustrations show exactly what is understood by the above terms.
The kind here recommended (number 4 in the illustration) has a
straight-sided female member, and a shouldered male member that is
closed at the distal end--“closed-end center.” They are obtainable
from Abbey and Imbrie, at 97 Chambers Street, New York City, under
the name of “bamboo” ferrules. We also have obtained similar
satisfactory ferrules from the T. H. Chubb Rod Co., of Post Mills,
Vermont, which that firm catalogs as their “special short, straight,
welted ferrule, with capped and closed-end center.” The Abbey and
Imbrie ferrules, at the time of this writing, were supplied in the
following sizes, the figures denoting in fractions of an inch the
outside diameter of the male or inside diameter of the female or
outer member: 9/64, 11/64, 3/16, 7/32, 15/64, 1/4, 17/64, 19/64,
11/32, 3/8, 27/64, 15/32, 1/2, 35/64, 19/32, 5/8, 43/64, 23/32,
3/4, 51/64, 55/64, 7/8, 61/64, 63/64, 1-1/32. The Chubb article
ran in somewhat different sizes, namely: 5/32, 3/16, 13/64, 15/64,
17/64, 19/64, 11/32, 3/8, 13/32, 7/16, 15/32, 17/32, 19/32, 5/8,
23/32, 13/16. Once again the reader is cautioned that he should be
prepared to find that actual _diameters of stock ferrules may vary_
minutely from the sizes as listed.
The sizes used by the writer for the ten-foot fly, nine- and nine and
one-half-foot fly, and five and one-quarter-foot bait-casting rods
mentioned in a previous chapter, are respectively 21/64 and 13/64
inch; 9/32 and 11/64; and 19/64 inch. For the independent-handgrasp
joint, for the fly-rods, 7/16 and 3/8 inch.
Ferrules that are a _trifle_ large should be selected, rather than
those a bit undersized for the joint at the place where they are to
be fitted--when compelled to make the choice--as but a minimum amount
of the wood should be cut away, _especially in fitting the female
ferrules_, which preferably are without a shoulder, as already noted.
The ferrule diameter should on no account be _materially less than
the rod diameter_ as measured, this time, between _flat surfaces_,
at the meeting ends of the rod-joints where the ferrule is to be
used; hence calipering these ends in this way will inform you of the
ferrule sizes required. An expedient sometimes of value when fitting
to old joints new ferrules that are a trifle large, is to wind the
joint-ends with waxed silk or fine linen-thread before applying the
cement, and then to force the ferrules on over this.
_Only ferrules whose parts fit snugly together should be accepted
and used._ If too tight, the male ferrule is easily dressed down by
turning it, together with its attached rod-joint, inside of a folded
piece of fine emery-cloth held tightly between the fingers, finishing
the process by rubbing it with a mixture of powdered chalk and
linseed oil. _Never use a file for this purpose._
The proximal ends of ferrules--ends toward the rod-joints--should be
either _split or serrated_ for a short distance, in order to modify
rigidity here. If this be not done, there are created abrupt lines of
demarkation around the rod at every point where the flexible bamboo
emerges from the rigid metal tubing; and it is at one of these places
that the rod is most likely to give way under exceptional stress. A
further good expedient to relieve the strain at joint connections, is
to _locate a line-guide at the lower end of each female ferrule_, so
that the line pull at these ferrule guides will come more directly
against the stronger side of the joints between the separate pieces
of the rod.
[Illustration: Split and serrated ferrules]
[Illustration: Figures 1, 2, and 3--Guiding-notches for serrating
ferrules]
The amateur rod-tinker need not however pay the dealer the very
considerable cost of ferrules having flexible ends--fifty or
seventy-five cents more a pair--but, with the use either of a fine
hack-saw or a small triangular saw-file, he may proceed to do his
own splitting or serrating, as the case may be. When using the saw,
it is advisable first to fit a plug of soft wood snugly within the
ferrule-end to be sawed and to cut it off flush with the metal.
In using the file, first notch the ferrule-end in two places,
corresponding to its exact middle diameter, by one stroke of the tool
held horizontally (Fig. 1). Next, divide each half of the circle,
by notches, equally into three arcs, by two additional file-strokes
(Figures 2 and 3). You now have made your six guiding-notches with
but three strokes. Deepen these notches a little, and then be sure
to _equalize them, by directing the side pressure of the file_ as
required, before completing the cutting to the full depth. For this
the file now is held in an inclined position, as the illustration
depicts, and you make short strokes away from you.
[Illustration: Serrating ferrules]
For securing the ferrules in the vise without injury while sawing
slits or filing notches, make a little holder from two pieces of soft
wood, by chiseling a V-groove along a side of each, as represented in
Fig. 4.
[Illustration: Fig. 4--wooden ferrule-holder]
Several kinds of preparations are in use for cementing the ferrules
onto the rod-joints, among them being common thick shellac,
sealing-wax, bicycle-tire and gutta-percha dental cements. As an
excellent and inexpensive ready-prepared article may be had in the
shops, we never have bothered about cement recipes; the author uses
Dodge’s ferrule cement, which he buys at William Mills and Son’s,
21 Park Place, New York City, for twenty-five cents a stick--enough
to last a long time. Doubtless it may be obtained in many places,
or a similar preparation that will serve as well. Whatever else
you do in securing the ferrules to the wood, do _not_ make use of
any metal pins; they weaken the rod, are no effective preventive
against loosening, and they constitute an annoying obstruction when
the re-cementing of a ferrule is indicated. And do not use doweled
ferrules.
[Illustration: Finding point on joint for bottom edge of female
ferrule]
In fitting your ferrules, be sure that the female section is not
thrust too far down over its joint-end, and so _prevents the male
ferrule from being seated the full depth_; by placing the smaller
(seating) part of the male ferrule alongside the outer end of the
female, measure the distance down on the joint that the bottom of
the female ferrule should extend, and mark this point on the wood.
Allow for the least bit of space between the wood end within the
female ferrule and the butt end of the male, when the rod is jointed
up. Cut the wood down by careful cross-filing--as you roll the end
of the joint on the workbench, followed by turning it within a fold
of sandpaper--only sufficient for a good snug fit of metal over the
wood; and remember that the ferrule will expand a bit when heated.
Be especially careful to _have the female ferrule fit the wood as
tightly as possible_, for it is this ferrule that is more likely to
work loose from its attachment. As you file and sandpaper, pause now
and then to try on the ferrule, giving to it a twisting motion, which
will leave black rubbing-marks on the wood that indicate the high
spots requiring further cutting away.
In your filing of the joint, endeavor to remove the wood _equally on
all sides_, in order that the ferrules will be _centered_, and thus
bring the whole rod into true alignment when its sections are jointed
together.
In applying the cement, be careful to avoid getting any upon that
inside part of the outer ferrule which receives the male (inner)
section. Soften the stick of cement in the flame of an alcohol lamp,
a gas- or candle-flame; stick a few small gobs on the wood, and
heat the cement and joint-end over the flame carefully, turning the
joint to and fro the while, till the cement flows; spread the now
liquefied cement evenly over the wood by stroking lengthwise with a
match, toothpick, or sliver of bamboo; slip the ferrule on as far as
it readily will go; heat ferrule and all again _over_ the flame a
moment, then by firmly pushing against the floor or some other solid
object, as the door-jamb, quickly force the ferrule home to your
mark. The excess of cement exuding from between the ferrule-end and
the wood is best removed while yet hot and semi-liquid, by a circular
wiping stroke with a rag, or better, by turning the joint against
the rag; and when cold and hard, it easily is chipped off with a
knife-blade manipulated cautiously.
As German-silver ferrules are _tempered, overheating directly in a
flame is injurious to the metal_.
File down paper-thin the extreme ends of the teeth made in serrating,
as the silk-winding is to extend up over them onto the solid metal;
and, to make a “very particular job,” you also may file down the
whole length of the outside surface of the teeth or slit portions
to just beyond their bases, so that the silk-wrapping, at its
termination on the ferrule, will lie nearly or quite flush with
the metal surface it butts against. The shaded portions of the
illustrations of serrated and split ferrules represent this area of
superficial filing. One of the teeth or sections between slits will
lie against each flat surface of the rod-joint, except that in the
case of the smaller-top ferrules you may make but three serrations
and have a tooth lie along each alternate flat face of the rod.
As a precaution against dampness, you may varnish the extreme
joint-ends, which receive the female ferrules, before attaching the
ferrules, and then when applying the cement to the joint you also
can spread a smooth coating of this over the same place. There
are yet other devices. Mr. W. L. Aylesworth, an English authority,
states that paraffine or type-metal is much more penetrating than
either varnish, shellac, or most any other coating compound, and that
if the paraffine be melted, the ferrule heated, and the paraffine
poured into the ferrule onto the bare wood, it will penetrate for a
considerable distance and renders it absolutely waterproof. A warmed
glass medicine-dropper is a handy tool with which to introduce your
paraffine.
[Illustration: Sealing and locking ferrules with type-metal]
Mr. Aylesworth further remarks: “In fact, it is difficult to say
which is the better compound, for both are very penetrating and
satisfactory for this purpose. The neglect to waterproof wood at
the ferrules and protect it from moisture probably has more to do
with the joints breaking at these places than the angler is aware
of. It also is a good plan to turn or file a small groove around the
joint, at about an eighth of an inch from the end entering the female
ferrule, and to turn the end down slightly so that the type-metal,
if used, will run down between the wood and the ferrule and into the
groove. This will have a tendency to solder the ferrule onto the
wood. Melt the type-metal in a spoon or ladle and pour it in the
ferrule on the wood after cementing, by use of a small funnel.”
The present writer prefers to rely for fixation of ferrules wholly
upon snug fitting and cement, and he uses the paraffine for
waterproofing the bare wood at the joint-ends.
[Illustration: Wood ferrule-plug]
When all your ferrules are fitted, you can make some little wooden
plugs for the open ends of the female ferrules, both to guard them
against injury and to keep out dirt and dust. Stock ferrules are not
supplied with any sealing device, but handmade ferrules may have
little caps (grease-caps) that fit snugly within their ends, and
which may be slightly greased or oiled before inserting, when the rod
is disjointed.
_One-Piece and Spliced Rods._--In the endeavor wholly to obviate
this rigid feature of metal ferrule connections in rod construction,
some rods--especially veteran salmon-rods of English, Scotch, or
Irish manufacture, are without ferrules of any kind, being made to
joint up by a whipped splice; or again, rods are made, even up to
eleven feet long, in one clear length of split-bamboo--one-piece or
one-joint rods. You rarely see today a rod of either description, and
almost never in America, as any slight advantage of such construction
is not at all commensurate either with the greatly-increased
difficulty of building and the consequent extremely high cost, or
with the inconvenience entailed in the transportation of or in the
putting-up and taking-down of the rod. A ferruled rod, built with
the precautions that have been noted, is good enough for the most
fastidious angler; beyond a certain point, additional refinements
belong within the category of the exquisite rather than the useful.
[Illustration: Spliced-rod joint-end and cap]
[Illustration: Spliced-rod lashing]
The manner of jointing the spliced rod may be of interest to the
reader. The splicing ends of the joints have long bevels, of several
inches; these are reinforced by fine silk-whippings, and may be
protected when the rod is not in use by metal caps which slip over
them. Before splicing the joints in the preparation of the rod for
use, warmed shoemakers’-wax or beeswax is thoroughly applied both
to the beveled surfaces of the wood and to the linen-thread which
binds the splice together. In addition to the circular turns of this
wrapping-thread, lashings running lengthwise under the former are
sometimes used, which pass through little metal rings or around
hooks for further security against the joints throwing apart. (Our
diagrammatic sketch shows the splice rather short.)
ROD-MAKING:
WINDINGS AND GUIDES