CHAPTER XVI. Visiting Indians At El Tovar

It is seldom that the traveler will find less than three Indian tribes of

distinct family represented at or near El Tovar. In the Hopi House, as is

shown, there are Hopis and Navahos, and in their camp near by,there will

generally be found a band of Havasupais from Havasu (Cataract) Canyon,

making baskets or dressing buckskin.

To most people an Indian is an Indian, yet there is such a wonderful

difference between these three peoples, in features, language, habits,

religion, social customs and life, that a short comparison cannot fail to

be of interest and profit.

The Hopi Indian. The Hopis belong to the people popularly spoken of as

"pueblos," but this name signifies nothing more than town Indians, as

distinguished from the nomad or wandering tribes. They belong to the great

Shoshonean family, and are a short, stocky, gentle people, given to

agriculture, sheep raising, basketry and pottery, and a little weaving and

silver work.

The Navaho Race. The Navahos, on the other hand, are of Athabascan stock,

coming from the north, and are blood brothers of the Tinnehs of Alaska, and

the fierce and warlike Apaches of Southern Arizona. They are natural

horsemen, raising great herds of their wiry, active, hardy ponies, as well

as herds of sheep and goats. These are the chief industries of their men,

and the women are the most skilled blanket-weavers in the world.

The Havasupais. The Havasupais are of still another stock. They belong to

the Yuman family, and are kin to the Wallapais, the Mohaves, Yumas and

Cocopahs of the Colorado River.

Comparison of Three Races. In appearance, the Hopi and Havasupai are more

alike than either are like to the Navaho. As a rule, the Hopi is well built

and stalwart, with the unmistakable Indian face, but with less coarse and

sensual lips, higher and more intellectual brow, more alert and kindly eye,

and stronger chin than the Havasupai. The lobes of the nostril are wide and

flexible, showing the wonderful lung power of this great running people.

The Navaho shows, in the build of his flexible body, that he is a horseman,

a rider. His face is one of the strongest of Indian types, and is

distinctive and easily recognizable, as a rule. With high cheek bones,

strong square jaws, flexible, thin lips, large, limpid eyes and expansive

brows, the tribe shows a high order of intelligence, and while at rest,

their faces are kindly and inviting. There is a flash in the eye when

aroused that denotes great pride, absolute fearlessness and hatred of

control. It is a race of warriors, a race that for two centuries harried

the Spaniards as well as the gentle Hopi, whom they regarded as their

legitimate prey.

Costumes of Hopi Men. In dress, these three peoples are distinctive, though

in these days of part civilization and close contact with the whites, the

true Indian costume is being discarded for the conventional dress of the

latter. The Hopi men generally wear the true pueblo costume. In olden days,

it was the buckskin shirt and trousers, with a blanket over all. Now, the

trousers are generally of white calico, with a slit on the sides from the

knee down. A calico shirt is worn. The stockings are of blue wool, without

feet. Moccasins, with a sole of thick rawhide and uppers of dressed

buckskin, are worn. The invariable silk handkerchief, or red bandana

"bands" surrounds the hair, which is cut long, generally long enough barely

to reach the shoulders.

Costumes of Hopi Women. The women's native dress is most picturesque, and

far more adhered to than that of the men. The main dress is a welt-woven

blanket of deep blue, sometimes with slight red decoration, which is

fastened over the left shoulder and down the left side. The right shoulder

is left bare, unless, as invariably is the case with the Indians who

associate much with the whites, a light calico shirt is worn under the

dress. It reaches to below the knees, and is encircled around the waist by

a broad home-woven sash, which is wrapped two or three times around the

body, and has the end carelessly tucked in. The feet are covered with

moccasins, to which are attached swathings of buckskin, which are wrapped

around and around the legs, until they are as large as ordinary sized

stovepipes. The hair is worn in peculiar fashion, that symbolizes the

social condition of the wearer. At puberty a maiden is required by the

inflexible rule of the tribe to dress her hair in two great whorls--one

over each ear--called "nashmi." These are in imitation of the squash

blossom, which is the Hopi symbol of maidenhood and purity. When she

marries, she must change the fashion of dressing the hair into two pendant

rolls, in imitation of the fruit of the squash, which is their emblem or

symbol for matronhood and chastity.

Navaho Men's Costumes. The old time Navaho men wear the white calico

trousers, slit up the side, and a shirt, either of colored calico or of

some kind of velvet cloth. On the feet are moccasins, and the stockings are

the same footless kind as worn by the Hopi, fastened below the knee with a

wide garter. This is made in the same style as the sashes which the Hopi

and Navaho women wear around their waists, but is neither so broad nor so

long. The hair is either allowed to flow loosely over the shoulders, or is

arranged in a kind of square knot at the back of the head. As a basis for

this knot, a hairpin made of bone, from three to five inches long, smoothed

almost flat, with beveled or rounded edges, and often rudely carved, is

used. Around this knot a sash similar to a garter is generally wrapped to

secure it. The universal bands is worn around the head to help bind the

hair, and keep it away from the forehead.

Navaho Women's Costume. The women wear a brown, green, or red velvet shirt,

with a "squaw dress" beautifully woven of deep blue cotton, with a

conventionally designed red border. Around the waist the wide sash, before

described, is wound. This dress is both skirt and waist, but of late years

those women who live in or near our civilization discard their native

dress, and wear a skirt of calico, with the velvet shirt.

The Havasupai Dress. The Havasupai men and women now wear as near the

conventional dress of our race as their means will allow. When I first knew

them, the men seldom wore more than a pair of moccasins and a breechcloth

in summer, with buckskin shirt and trousers, and a Navaho blanket over the

shoulders in winter. The conventional dress of the women at that time was a

skirt made of shredded cedar bark, which was suspended from the waist to

below the knees, without shirt or shirt-waist. In winter, a Navaho blanket

was worn over the shoulders. Both men and women still wear the inevitable

moccasins, though the "civilized" members of the tribe buy their shoes at

the white man's store in Williams, Ash Fork or Seligman. The women

generally bang their hair across, about the center of the forehead, and

then allow the rest of the hair to hang loose. It is a great insult to a

Havasupai woman to ask her to throw back her hair from her cheeks, and to

do it oneself is a serious offense.

Language. In language, these people are as different one from another as

are the Turks, the Esquimaux and the French. Even in the simplest words

these differences are marked. Take a few comparisons. For good the Hopi

says lolomai, the Navaho yatehay and the Havasupai harnegie. Bad in Hopi is

ka-lolomai (not good), Navaho da shonda (of the evil one), Havasupai

han-a-to-opo-gi.

The Grand Canyon of Arizona: How to See It · 第 16 / 32 章