Large corporate bodies do not always move with the same rapidity as do
personal enterprises where one man controls. Many minds and many interests
often have to be consulted. When, however, the way is clear, a corporate
body, with its vast power, can accomplish in a short time what individuals
could never compass in several successive lifetimes.
These remarks are exemplified in the action of the Santa Fe Railway Company
at the Grand Canyon. It has taken several years for things to properly
shape themselves for adequate development, so that all classes of travelers
visiting the Grand Canyon could be suitably provided for. In hotel
accommodations, El Tovar, and the equally well conducted but cheaper Bright
Angel Camp, leave nothing to be desired. In transportation facilities, both
on the railway and for drives, riding or the descent of the trails,
provision is made to meet the most exacting demands.
Hermit Rim Road and Trail. These imperative necessities met, attention has
been given to a further opening up of the scenic portions of the Canyon. In
furtherance of this policy the Santa Fe Railway has built a new roadway
from El Tovar and Hopi Point along the south rim of the Canyon to the head
of Hermit Trail, nine miles west of El Tovar. It is called Hermit Rim Road.
This roadway is thirty feet in width, with a central driveway, fourteen
feet wide, of crushed stone rolled hard and sprinkled with crude oil. It is
so wide, so well macadamized, so level and so dustless that it may well be
likened to a city boulevard in the wilderness.
The road ends at the head of Hermit Trail, a new pathway now being built
down the south wall of the Canyon. Though this trail is being completed, it
will not be opened for regular trail service until the summer of 1912. It
leads down into the very heart of the Canyon and reveals innumerable
scenic wonders and surprises.
Hermit Rim Road to Hermit Basin. Hermit Rim Road closely follows the rim
from Hopi Point to the head of Hermit Basin and the top of Hermit Trail,
--not too near the brink, but in and out among the trees, affording
wonderful vistas of the Canyon and the cliffs of the opposite wall. Hermit
Rim Road is perhaps the most unique highway in the world, for there is no
other roadway on the brink of such a tremendous gorge. Startling views
reveal depths of the Canyon on one side, and on the other are quiet scenes
down long forest lanes. In places there is a sheer drop of 2,000 feet
within a rod of the traveled track, and another drop almost as far below
that, but there is no danger, so perfectly have the engineers of the road
done their work.
Leaving El Tovar, the road quickly ascends El Tovar Hill, giving a view of
the San Francisco Peaks and neighboring mountains standing high above the
Tusayan Forest, and purple colored with the haze of seventy-five miles of
distance. Then, down into Coconino Wash, up Tusayan Hill, past Maricopa
Point, and Hopi Point, long noted for its unrivaled sunset view, is
reached.
About a mile beyond Hopi Point is Mohave Point, standing in sheer and awful
precipices above Monument Creek, and leaving that, a huge curve on top of
Hopi Wall is traversed, and opposite this place the granite gorge is
deepest.
Rounding Mohave Point on the next leg of the journey three and four-fifths
miles to Pima Point, is the greatest curve on the road, and along this
section there is much to claim the attention. First one and then another of
the great interior rock temples seems to command the eye; the side canyons
reaching far back into the Kaibab Plateau on the north, and that everywhere
enter the main gorge, show depths of startling distance; the predominant
colors--vermilion, blue, green, buff, and gray--are incomparable; and the
wild river, roaring and tumbling, may be seen from different points, though
from the roadway it seems but a mere ribbon of brown. At Pima Point the
road curves to the southwest and continues for more than a mile on the rim
of Hermit Basin, until the head of Hermit Trail is reached. Wide outlooks
across the Cataract Canyon country and unusual views of the river are
afforded on the final mile. The road ends where Hermit Trail, a new trail,
like the road, wide and safe, begins.
Hermit Trail. The new trail is being built on the most approved engineering
lines. It is four feet wide all the way, with a low protecting wall of rock
on the outside, and is most carefully laid out. Cuts in the solid rock,
likewise heavy stone walls built up as a support, are used wherever
necessary for greater safety. It descends by easy grades and long zigzags
for nearly five hundred feet to the top of the red limestone, where from
wide shelves views may be obtained safely of the narrow cleft far down in
which Hermit Creek flows. Further descent is made by easy steps to a level
stratum, which is traversed by the trail on its way to the river; and the
Canyon on either hand seems rapidly to open out, revealing wonders of
scenic beauty. The northern extremity of the red sandstone under Pima Point
is thus reached and on both sides of the river such a stupendous panorama
is at once opened up that even superlatives cannot describe it. Under Yuma
Point, on the left, an ornately sculptured butte, already seized by Moran,
Leigh and other discerning artists as a piece de resistance, compels the
eye.
On this point one may linger for hours, if time permits, and as the
changing lights bring into prominence different mural features, or the
moving clouds cast their revealing shadows on first one, then another, of
the temples and towers, the reverent beholder feels that he is on holy
ground. It is indeed superlative in color, in shadow, in form, in majesty,
in variety and in general effect.
On the Plateau. The trail from this point descends to the plateau and
continues to the river. A rest house is to be established providing ample
accommodations both for eating and sleeping. This will be the first
provision near the river for all travelers,--those who wish hotel luxuries
and comforts as well as those who desire the experience of camp equipment.
All the way down, the strong scenic features of the Canyon remain in
evidence, and the depths traversed by the trail but enhance their glory and
beauty, as their outlines are projected against the perfect turquoise of
the Arizona sky. Before returning to the rim one may wish to take advantage
of the opportunity to spend some hours exploring for himself the foot of
the greatwalls near by, or studying the geological formations.
Mountain Sheep. Perchance, also, one may see a band of mountain sheep, for
now that they are so strictly preserved, a heavy penalty being exacted both
by the state and federal governments for killing one, they are increasing
in numbers. One of their usual haunts for years has been in the canyons and
ravines north of Shiva Temple. It is not unreasonable to anticipate that
they will often roam into view of visitors so near by on the other side of
the river.
Hermit Trail Loop. On the return journey, provision is to be made for a
choice of several routes, viz: up the Boucher Trail, which is on the other
side of Hermit Basin; along the Tonto Trail just above the river, westward
to Bass's and up the Bass Trail; or eastward to the Indian Garden, and up
the Bright Angel Trail which route is known as the Hermit Trail Loop.