But a few years ago, before the power of God's word was felt among the
inhabitants of the fair islands of the Pacific, to the numerous dangers
usually encountered by mariners, that of being attacked and cut off by
cannibal savages was to be added throughout its whole extent. Now,
throughout the eastern portion, the greater number of the islands may be
visited, not only without fear, but with the certainty of a friendly
reception. There are still some,--like the Marquesas and parts of the
Pomautau group, or Low Archipelago,--which still remain in the darkness
of heathenism; but on the western portion of that mighty ocean, the
bright spots on which the gospel shines are the exception to the general
rule, and over the widest parts the spirit of evil reigns supreme. It
was here that true soldier of Christ, the energetic Williams, fell; and
here, too, Mr Gordon and his wife and family were lately murdered by
the savage inhabitants.
It was towards a group of islands in the eastern Pacific that the _Olive
Branch_ was now holding its course. We had seen Vihala happily united
to Alea, with the full consent of the old king, and they had devoted
themselves for missionary labour wherever they might be required. This
was surprising to many, and to the heathen perfectly incomprehensible.
It was as astonishing to them as it would be to people in England, if a
young noble of high rank were to declare his resolution of going forth
as a missionary of the gospel to these heathen lands. Yet what
undertaking more glorious, what work more pleasing to the Lord and
Master, whom Christians of all ranks, rich and poor, profess to serve.
We had likewise visited the island of the once cannibal chief, who had
heard of the new religion from his countrymen, had confessed its vast
superiority to his own, cast away his idols, and gladly received the two
teachers we had brought with us. All this had been most cheering and
encouraging.
We had landed Mr Bent at the station, and now we hoped shortly again to
meet my brother John and his wife, and to convey them, and some other
missionaries and their wives, to a general meeting to be held shortly at
the central station. We had received on board a variety of stores, and
books, and numerous articles to distribute among the various stations at
which we were to touch. Indeed, it was highly satisfactory to me to
find how useful my little _Olive Branch_ could be made.
Hitherto the little vessel had not encountered a single storm. It was
like the rest we might suppose the ocean enjoyed after the subsidence of
the waters when the ark rested on Ararat,--not a calm, though; for
gentle breezes filled our sails, and rippled over the blue surface of
the sea with glittering wavelets, laughing joyously in the sunbeams. A
lovely island hove in sight, with blue mountains, and rocks, and
sparkling waterfalls, and green shrubs, and pastures, and graceful
palm-trees, and yellow sands; and we sailed in through an opening in the
never absent reef, and dropped our anchor in a sheltered and beautiful
harbour, and numbers of canoes surrounded us. But we had no boarding
nettings up, no guns loaded, no pistols in our belts, no cutlasses and
pikes ready at hand; for the gospel ruled here. The canoes were filled
with well-clothed, intelligent natives. Not an oath was heard, not a
man showed an angry temper, and not one who could not read the word of
God, and understood it too, and could give a clear reason for the hope
that was in him, and who was not probably, even in secular matters, far
better educated than the larger portion of the watermen of any port in
England, or other long-civilised country in the world.
Provisions of various sorts had been brought in the canoes; but when I
enquired for John Harvey, and announced that I was his brother, and that
my wife was the daughter of Mr Bent, not an approach to payment would
any one receive. When we landed they lifted us up in their arms, and
carried us thus to the mission house, where our appearance was a
pleasant surprise to our sister-in-law, who had not been made aware of
our arrival. My brother was away, but every hour expected back.
I had looked upon Mr Bent's station as a model of neatness; this was
larger, and superior in many respects; nor was it inferior in respect to
spiritual things. The church, built entirely of stone, was a large and
handsome building, and the most conspicuous object from the sea.
Running parallel with the shore were two rows, facing each other, of
neat cottages, many of stone, with verandahs round them, and gardens
both in front and in the rear. Between them was a broad hard road, with
two rows of trees, and a stream of sparkling water led through the
centre, fed by a waterfall which came foaming down the side of a rocky
hill at a little distance inland. Several streets of equal width had
been commenced at right angles with the main street, and on the same
plan, and new houses were in course of erection in several directions.
Here it was evident, indeed, was the commencement of a large town. The
cottages were all very fair copies of the mission-house, though on a
smaller scale. Those of some of the chiefs, however, were of good size,
and were arranged so that they could enjoy all the privacy of domestic
life.
And why, it may be asked, was this congregation of natives in one place?
What could be the attraction? My love and admiration of John suggested
the answer, and I was right: the power of God's word put forth through
His faithful servant. The inhabitants of this town had been collected
by concern for their soul's welfare, and the belief that the nearer they
were to the preacher the more that welfare would be cared for. They
displayed a wisdom which is foolishness to the world, and is, alas! too
often neglected by those at home, by those who profess to be seeking
after the food which perisheth not. I write this, as well as other
comparisons I have made, not to find fault with my countrymen at home,
but that (should my journal ever be read by any of them) I may excite in
them a holy emulation with these so late savage heathens, that they may
examine themselves, and ascertain whether they are using all the means
in their power to attain to holiness of life and conversation, and
without which their spiritual life will too probably languish.
I found my sister-in-law actively engaged from morning till night in her
household duties, and in affording instruction of every description to
native women of all ages. She declared with perfect sincerity her
belief that she was one of the happiest of her sex. She retained the
most perfect health, though her figure was slight and delicate, and she
had been most gently and tenderly nurtured. Not only that, but she had
been what is called highly educated, and was not a stranger to the gay
and brilliant assemblies of "civilised" life. It was not that she knew
no other lot, and therefore esteemed her present one the best; but she
had weighed it with many others she did know, and found it immeasurably
superior. She knew from experience that worldly rank hides many a heavy
or vacant heart where God is not acknowledged, that wealth cannot give
peace of mind, and that gaiety and dissipation most assuredly quench
spiritual life. She had found, too, that even a decent church-attending
style of existence may be unprofitable to the soul, and as certain to
lead to spiritual death. My sister-in-law was not entirely alone.
There were two other stations on the island, which was large, and the
missionaries and their wives enjoyed frequent intercourse, thus
encouraging and supporting each other.
Indeed, I have as a rule found the stations the most prosperous both
spiritually and physically where two missionary families have been
living together, or where they are near enough to meet frequently. A
missionary's wife has to attend to her household duties, often not
slightly onerous when she has children requiring instruction. Then she
has the female schools to look after, adult classes to receive at her
own house, to afford advice to all who ask it, to call on the sick and
to administer medicine, and to visit often from house to house. She
must correspond with friends at home; she has her private devotions, and
must take time for reading and self-examination, or she will find that
she can ill perform her other duties. I do not believe that I have
overstated the amount of work I have known my sister-in-law and other
missionaries' wives perform. Indeed, my own wife was in the habit of
getting through not less daily, for weeks together.
Although the greater number of the inhabitants of the island had become
Christians in name, there was still a large district the powerful chief
of which remained a stubborn heathen. He seemed to hate the gospel with
a deadly hatred, and threatened to club any of his subjects who should
venture to lotu. Notwithstanding this, several who had heard the truth,
either directly or through their friends, had secretly escaped to
Christian villages. Many of these persons had become really converted,
and were of course longing to induce their relatives and friends to
become Christians likewise.
Such was the state of things when the _Olive Branch_ arrived at the
island. A more beautiful picture could scarcely be found than that
presented by the calm bay on which our little vessel floated, with her
mission-flag flying,--the glittering sand, the tall cocoa-nut and
bread-fruit trees, the wild rocks and fantastic-shaped hills, the green
fields, the foaming waterfalls and shining streams, and the rows of neat
habitations, the church and school-houses,--all showing that the gospel
had indeed here found an entrance, and made it doubly beautiful in our
sight.
We had been some hours on shore when we saw the natives hurrying out of
their cottages and assembling in the chief street, and the cry arose
that the missionary was coming. I was scarcely prepared for the warm
and affectionate greeting with which they welcomed him. There was no
adulation and nothing cringing in their manner; but it was evident that
they knew him from experience as a sincere and loving friend.
Great as was our mutual satisfaction at again meeting, so multifarious
were his duties that we had but little time for private conversation. I
was able, however, to ascertain that John's heart was in his work, and
that he infinitely preferred being a missionary in the South-Seas to
holding the highest secular office at home. The Sabbath came. It was a
day of toil to the preachers and teachers, and yet a day of refreshing
to them as it was to hundreds of others, who collected from all quarters
to worship the true God, and to hear His word expounded. Many came with
their wives and little ones, bringing their provisions, to spend the day
of rest in obtaining spiritual food for their souls' welfare. The
service over, numbers collected round my brother and the native
teachers, and almost the whole interval between the services was devoted
to affording advice and consolation to these seekers after life eternal.
But the faith of the young Christian community in the especial
providence of God was sorely to be tried. All things were prepared for
our departure, and we were about going on board the _Olive Branch_, when
the somewhat threatening appearance of the weather made me resolve not
to sail before the following morning. I was convinced shortly that a
gale of more or less strength was coming on, and leaving Mary at the
mission house, I went on board to secure the vessel and make all things
snug. Scarcely had I got out a second anchor and two fresh warps than
dark clouds were seen rushing across the sky, the wind howled among the
hills and trees, lightning flashed brightly, and the thunder roared and
rattled fearfully. I was in hopes, however, that the vessel would,
notwithstanding, ride in safety, when it struck me that the sea outside
was roaring louder than usual, and in an instant a huge roller appeared
rushing with fearful violence into the harbour, while before I could
look round I found the vessel lifted up, cables and anchors dragging,
and warps giving way, and on we drove helplessly towards the shore. My
crew held on to the bulwarks with affrighted looks, for we could expect
nothing else than that our little vessel would be dashed to pieces, and
if so, that we ourselves should be swept out of the harbour by the
receding wave. Another dread seized me, that the roller might sweep up
to the mission house and overwhelm those so dear to me. This feeling
made me forget all fear for my own life, or for those with me. As I
gazed landward, I saw the devastation the hurricane was already
committing. Several cottages were in view. Now the wind lifted the
roof of one and bore it in shattered fragments to a distance. Now the
walls of another trembled and fell; tall trees were bending and
breaking, or being torn up by the roots and laid prostrate; house after
house was thus destroyed; whole groves of trees, as it seemed to me,
fell to the ground; darkness appeared to be coming down like a thick
mantle to add to the horrors of the scene.
On drove our little vessel; the rocks against which I expected to be
dashed appeared; these were covered, and over them we were carried by
the raging tide, above even the sands, and lifted high up on to a soft
bank amid brushwood stern first, where she hung while the waters rushed
back leaving her uninjured on the shore. We were mercifully preserved
from the sudden death we expected, and were grateful; but yet, though
not cast down, knowing all would be for the best, I felt most anxious to
assure myself of the safety of my dear wife and her companions.
We had come on shore, as far as I could judge, half a mile or more from
the mission house, a distance which it would be not only difficult but
extremely dangerous to traverse while the storm was raging and tall
trees were being hurled about like straws. One of my crew--a true
Christian man--volunteered to accompany me. The _Olive Branch_ had
already been made snug aloft, so when I had seen her securely shored up,
trusting and believing that no second roller would come to move her, I
set off, leaving the rest of the people on board to attend to her. My
companion and I provided ourselves each with a stout pole. I led the
way, he to help me should I fall, and I promising to turn back should he
cry out.
The noise of the tempest prevented our having anything like conversation
with each other, indeed it was only when we shouted at the very top of
our voices that they could be heard. The darkness had increased, and as
I began to move on I felt that the attempt was almost beyond my power;
still the incentive was so great that I resolved to persevere. I prayed
for strength and protection. In my own arm I knew that I could not
trust. There were no stars to guide me, and the flashes of lightning
sadly confused and dazzled my eyes, so that it was only by keeping as
near as possible to the shore that I could hope to keep in the proper
direction. This way was longer, however, and very rough where rocks
covered the ground, and I dreaded a return of the roller, when we might
have been swept helplessly away. The dangers to be encountered by
keeping inland were equally great. We might be struck by lightning,
crushed by falling trees, or losing our way, fall into some gully or
chasm.
Feeling the ground before us with our poles, my companion and I began
our hazardous march, I desired him to keep as close behind me as he
could, and to shout frequently to assure me that he was following. The
tempest increased in fury, the rain came down in torrents, causing such
floods as in some places almost to sweep us off our feet.
We had made good some five or six hundred yards, when I thought that we
might make faster progress on the higher ground, where the water would
not be so great an impediment to our progress. I knew also that we
should be able to steer our course more or less directly by feeling the
direction the water was flowing, so that we might always regain the sea
by following down the streams. Accordingly we attempted gradually to
gain the higher ground, but as we ascended, we felt the wind blowing
with greater force, and were again nearly carried off our legs by it. I
had to exert all the energies of my mind not to become totally
bewildered. Over rough rocks we climbed, and fallen trunks of trees,
and through the beds of streams, down which the fierce waters now rushed
foaming and roaring with fearful force, and across swamps and marshes,
till at last we reached a grove of tall trees. We could discover no way
round it, so I resolved to push through it by a path in which we found
ourselves. The trees were bending and writhing, and the loud crashes we
heard told us that every instant some were hurled to the ground. Now
one fell directly before me, and impeded my progress. I climbed over
it, my companion followed, and we continued our course, guided as before
by the way the rain beat on our heads and the waters flowed past our
feet. Again the thunder rolled loudly and the lightning flashed with
startling vividness, casting a horrid glare over the whole scene, now
darting amid the lofty boughs, and then snake-like running with loud
hisses along the ground. How utterly helpless and insignificant I felt
amid the war of the elements.
Still onward we must advance. How much farther I could not tell. My
companion's frequent shout cheered me. Perhaps trusting to the aid of
another made me more careless, for neglecting for an instant to keep my
stick feeling the ground before me, I stumbled forward, and found myself
floundering in a foaming stream. My cry prevented my companion from
falling likewise. Descending more cautiously he rushed into the flood
after me, and seizing me by the jacket just as I was being borne down,
assisted me to regain my feet, and helped me across, the water being
scarcely up to our middles. In another instant I should have been
carried helplessly down the stream beyond my depth. We struggled out, I
scarcely know how, and pushed on.
Again, I took the lead. We were passing through a second grove of
bread-fruit trees. Another tall tree fell directly before me. I
climbed over it. Crash succeeded crash. I prayed for preservation from
the fate which might any moment overtake me. I began to hope that we
were approaching the station. Still we were not out of the wood. I was
working my way on when it occurred to me that my companion had not sung
out to me for a longer time than usual. I called to him. There was no
answer. Eager as I was to push on, I could not desert him. I turned
back. Again and again I called. There was no answer. I reached a
fallen tree. Was it the one I had climbed over, or was it one which had
fallen after I had passed? I felt along it. My foot struck against a
soft substance. I stooped down. There lay a human form--quite still
though--the hand I lifted fell powerless. My companion was dead. "One
shall be taken and the other left." God in His good providence had
thought fit to spare me. My companion was trusting wholly in Christ's
blood. I could not mourn him as one without hope.
It was no time to delay. Once again I was straining all my energies to
find and follow the right way. It appeared to me that far more than
double the time had passed which I had believed would suffice to reach
the station. I almost ran against the gable end of a house the greater
part of which was in ruins. I heard a loud moan. It was repeated. I
hunted about till I came on a native crouching down and endeavouring to
find shelter under part of the building yet standing. I asked him if he
would guide me to the mission house. My voice roused him, and he said
he would gladly do so. He sprang to his feet, and led me on by the
hand. "Here it is!" he exclaimed; but, alas, it was roofless and
deserted.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Note 1. In the course of this volume the author, it will be observed,
has transcribed much from the actual reports of missionaries, and from
the journals of naval officers who have visited the South-Seas. Even in
the connecting thread of narrative, and in descriptive scenes such as
this of the storm, the writer has stated nothing for which he has not
ample authority in published works. In a most interesting book, "Gems
from the Coral Islands," by the Reverend William Gill, volume two,
chapter 9, an account is given of the fearful hurricane of 1846, which
devastated the island of Raratonga. Dr Bourne, son of the Reverend R
Bourne, one of the founders of the Tahitian mission, the friend and
associate of Williams, thus writes concerning the illustrations which
accompany our letterpress, proofs of which he had seen: "The engravings
represent the tropical aspect of the vegetation with great correctness.
Many are not aware of the grandeur of the mountain scenery in some of
the islands. Dr Darwin, who was with Captain Fitzroy's expedition,
says of Tahiti: `Until I actually visited this island, and tried to
penetrate its mountain fastnesses, I could never understand the
statement made by Ellis, in his "Polynesian Researches," that after the
great battles of former times the defeated party took refuge in the
mountains, where it was impossible to follow them.' Mr Darwin then
describes the rugged ravines and forest-clad precipices, wilder than
anything he had witnessed in the South American Andes or Cordilleras."
Raiatea, Eimeo, and others in the Society group, are composed of vast
and abrupt mountain ranges, rising almost abruptly from the sea, and
having very little habitable ground, but all covered with the densest
vegetation. The most stupendous volcanoes in the world are those of the
Sandwich Islands, compared with which Etna and Vesuvius are mere
hillocks.