FITTING UP.
_Rockwork_ claims the first consideration when we proceed to fit up and
furnish a tank. For a fresh-water aquarium, I do not recommend rockwork
of any kind; and in the case of a vase, rockwork is positively
dangerous, from its weight, and, unless very skilfully managed, will be
ugly rather than ornamental. In the marine tank a few pieces of rock add
to the beauty of the scene and the comfort of the creatures.
In fitting rockwork, some amount of taste and judgment must be brought
into exercise. Shells and filagree work are largely used by some folks;
but they belong properly to the child's aquarium--they suggest dolls and
battledores. Some rough fragments of any kind of non-metallic stone may
be built up into a dark arch, or piled up after the fashion of a
cromlech--one flat piece resting on two or three vertical pieces, so as
to form a rude table-like structure. These may be fixed firmly in the
places they are intended to occupy by means of Roman or Portland cement,
which can be purchased at any building yard. The cement should be made
into a stiff paste, and worked into the form required. Indeed, the
rockwork may be wholly composed of such cement, especially if it is to
have the form of an arch. The most important matter in the construction
of rockwork is to give it a natural, rugged appearance, and to avoid
loading the tank with superfluous weight. I have seen large shells and
branches of coral in fresh-water tanks, and always thought the spectacle
disgraceful to the owner. In a marine tank, such things are proper
enough. Whatever is done should be made secure, the pieces of stone well
embedded in cement, and the whole firmly united. The tank must be well
seasoned, be frequently filled and emptied, to dissolve out any free
salts before being put to use.
_The Bottom_ must be composed of coarse river sand and small pebbles,
the whole well washed before being introduced to the tank. Mr. Gosse
condemns red sand and silver sand, as certain to stain the water. But I
have two tanks now at work, both bottomed with such material, and the
water preserves a crystalline brightness. I have also a marine tank, in
which the bed is formed of common silver sand and garden pebbles: it has
been in use nine months, and with no unfavourable results. In each case
the sand was washed till the water could be poured away quite clear,
and no matter what kind be used, the washing must be attended to. The
coarser the grit the better its appearance, and, therefore, I do not
recommend common sand, I merely show that it may be used when better is
not attainable.
_Mould_ has been extensively recommended as a bottom for tanks. I used
it myself till I became convinced that it could be dispensed with
altogether. It necessitates frequent changing of the water for at least
a fortnight after the first stocking of the tank, in order to get rid of
the soluble vegetable matter, which the water dissolves out of it, and
its presence promotes the growth of confervæ, and other low forms of
aquatic vegetation, that become obnoxious to the sight, and even hurtful
to the health of the collection. I now use sand and pebbles only, and I
find that aquatic plants of all kinds root freely and flourish in it,
and, indeed, if pebbles only be used, they flourish just as well if
their roots are covered.
_Planting_ is next to be performed. The arrangement of plants will
depend on the shape and size of the vessel. Generally speaking, massive
plants look best if set back with lighter plants before them, just the
same as a painter sets his chestnuts and elms in mid-distance, and his
lady birches in the fore-ground. _Stratoides_, _Potamogeton_, and other
plants of a massive and decided character, are well seen through the
interstices of _Myriophyllums_, _Callitriche_, and such like fragile and
delicate structures. The flowering rush makes a fine centre piece for a
vase, and appears to good advantage when seen through an archway, in a
tank containing rockwork.
If there is a bed of two or three inches of sand, the roots may be
gently pressed down into it, and a few clean pebbles laid over the spot
to keep the plant in its position. Some plants will require a stone to
be attached to them by means of a thread to fix them properly. Crowns of
_Stratoides_ that have not formed roots, may be planted in this way.
First cut away any black or decaying matter from the stem, and pull off
any discoloured leaves, taking care not to injure the centre, then pass
a piece of bass round the base, and attach a small stone. The plant will
remain firmly where placed, and will throw out roots, and fix itself
before the rotting of the bass takes place. It will then throw up new
crowns and become a very ornamental object. Loose stems of _Chara_,
_Anacharis alsinastrum_, or _Callitriche_, may be gathered together,
fixed by means of a stone in the same way, a strip of bass being better
than string for attaching them. They will generally get well rooted in a
fortnight, and remain firmly where planted.
_The Water_ should be pure and bright when introduced to the tank, and
if the supply is at all faulty, it will be best to pass it through a
filter before using it. Spring water will do very well, but must stand a
day or two to allow the plants to soften it, before the fishes are put
in. My tanks are all filled with spring water, which I find altogether
unobjectionable; but for the marine tank I think it preferable to any
other in the manufacture of artificial sea-water. Writers on the
aquarium usually insist on the use of river water, but in many places
this is not attainable, and it is satisfactory to know that artesian, or
well water, will serve the purpose admirably.
In filling the tank, hold a plate in the left hand, as low down as
possible, to receive the dash of water from the vessel in the right, so
as to wash up the sand as little as possible. A syphon may be used if a
source of supply is near the position of the tank.
_Aspect._--Sunshine is good for the tank at all seasons of the year. But
in high summer it should have only an hour's sun, morning and evening;
the fierce solar heat of mid-day will give the water so high a
temperature as to be fatal to its animal inhabitants. Comparing tanks
one with another, I must give a preference to a south or east aspect. A
north aspect will do very well, from May to October, but, during the
winter months, a tank in such a position, would be feeble, and want
watching. Good exposure to daylight is, of course, essential; but it
should be borne in mind that the fresh-water tank needs more light than
a marine one. My fresh-water tanks I find to prosper best when placed
close to the windows, but marine tanks may be kept back two or three
feet, in a south aspect. In fact, if you have a cabinet of water-insects
in a series of jars, the marine tank may very well stand behind them,
and get sufficient light there, but the light should fall
uninterruptedly on the fresh water vessels.
[Illustration: CALLITRICHE.]